IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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^^ 


%^ 


1.0 


I.I 


12.2 


1^  m 

:^  m 

Ao    12.0 


11.25  i  1.4 


1.6 


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/i 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 
WiSSTIRN  Y    MStO 

(714)  i/a^joa 


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4f^ 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadldn  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiquea 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The 
toti 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


□ 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endomrragde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculde 


r~l    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


r~~|    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  ii.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutAns 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  Att  film*es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  it6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculies 


r~~|    Pages  damaged/ 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


The 
posi 
of  tl 
filmi 


Orig 
beg! 
the  I 
sion 
othfl 
first 
sion 
or  ill 


v/ 


y 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6colories,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


I      I    Pages  detached/ 


Pages  d^tach^es 

Showthrougb/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Saule  Edition  disponible 


rri  Showthrougb/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  Only  edition  available/ 


The 
shal 
TiNI 
whi( 

Map 
difffl 
entii 
begi 
right 
requ 
metl 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  faqon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


28X 


JUA 


J 

12X 


lex 


»x 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Mills  Memorial  Library 
McMatter  University 


L'exempiaire  fiimA  fut  reproduit  grAce  d  la 
g^nirositA  de: 

Mills  Memorial  Library 
McMaster  University 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettet6  de  l'exempiaire  film*,  et  an 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  rAduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1  2  3 

4  5  6 


IH£  ClTl  wi   iHE  SAINTS. 


.iiS'l 


AND 


'liii'l 


o 


ArRO.SS  THE  mh\  lonNTAJXS  TO  CALIFORNIA. 


RICHAHD  ]'.  BdRTON, 


•< 
O 


r  H  ii    LAKE    R  i;  a  I O  K  «     . . , 


III.:; A,"  ETC. 


t^Jll  IlluctvHitone. 


N  JS  W     Y  U  K  K  ; 

HARl'BB    &    BHOTIIERB.    PUB 

f  HAN  HI.  IN     A  (11       ;.  i 

1862. 


I    '.  s 


.1      , 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


AND 


i 


'I 

1 


ACROSS  THE  EOCKY  MOUNTAIIS  TO  CAUFORNIA. 


BY 


RICHARD  F.  BURTON, 

ADTBOB  OP 
THE     LAKE     REGIONS     OP     CENTBAL     AFRICA,"   ETC. 


iOitl)  lilnetradons. 


NEW    YORK: 
HARPER    &    BROTHERS,    PUBLISHERS, 


FRANKLIN     SQUARE. 
1862. 


' '  Clear  your  mind  of  cant."— Johnbon. 

"MoNTEBtNOS.— America  is  In  more  dancer  frcm  reliirioiin  funnMMam     ti,„ _ 

thinking  it  necesaary  to  pn>vide  reUgious  in!?™S  forte  pe^elfa'Syo?^^^^^^ 
alence  of  BupcrBtitlou,  and  tliat,  perhapa,  in  some  wild  and  teprihla  «h«.J^  ™I.„  il ,  u  j'i™  P'*^" 
likely  con«equence  of  this  great  and  r)5rtontoiromT89ion  An  nM  w.Ti  Ji^^^  '"?'5^  ^J'  ™  ""« 
dupes  and  followers  as  readUyos  the  XfS  Jem^a  ■  andThe  i«^A«^n  «.  *'°"°'"'°  F^^Sht  find 
a  kingdom  for  himself  out  of  the  overgrown  terttoriro/  the  U^oiS^^v  S™  .h  .T  r "  ^^}!  *"  f^« 
most  effective  weapon  with  which  aiibltion  can  ara  itoelf  •  tJ^S  hJb^L  f"f  ^^''f  *  '^"""o'?'?  >«  the 
Immorality  which  the  want  of  reUgion  naturaUy^nd  nei^ari^v  ir.fif  ^n'A^'  f^^^^^  ^y  that 
may  be  very  well  directed  to  forwaM  the  des  gM  of%?^rSLte  We.^l«^'  ^^^'T^^ 
med  to  arise,  there  la  no  part  of  the  world  whf re  Hb  wrailSfln^^™!  ,  ^ere  there  another  Moham- 
In  that  part  of  the  AnglolmerlZTSTnto  whicMhe  oMprT.?J^'^«°'  fa  rer  opportunity  than 
less  part  of  thoir  population,  leaWng  laWand  GiWel  to  ow^^^  "»«  ^■ 

modern  colonization  both  are  left  behind."  ^         overtake  it  if  they  can,  for  in  the  march  of 


MCMASltH  UHlVtKiiiTY  LIBRARV 


fflebication. 


ivemment  there  not 
ew  atateg,  the  piev- 
>e  looked  for  as  one 
:onntaln  might  And 
■  who  seeks  to  carve 
i4t  fanaticisni  ie  the 
It'  prepared  by  that 
hit  camp-meetings 
re  another  Holuun- 
r  opportunity  than 
discharge  the  rert- 
br  in  the  march  of 

aureate,  in  March, 
!/,"  vol  I.,  Part  11., 


TO 


RICHARD    MONCKTON    MILNES. 


I  HAVE  PREFIXED  YOUR  NAME,  DEAR  MILNES.  TO  "THK  CITV  OF  THE  SAINTS- 

THE  NAME  OP  A  LINGUIST.  TRAVELER,  POET.  AND,  ABOVE  ALL,  A  MAN 

OP  INTELUGENT  INSIGHT  INTO  THE  THOUGHTS  AND 

FEELINGS  OP  IflS  BROTHER  MEN. 


/ 


PREFACE. 


twSXZri  °'  ^'^jrf  l^^*.  *"  deal  with  tales  of 
twice  told  travel,  I  can  not  but  feel,  especially  when  as  in  th» 

.WaT'  "  ?r'  '^^'^.'"^  been'e.^nded\p„:  k^triv^S' 
.ties  of  a  Biary,  the  want  of  that  freshness  and  oriranalitv  wW^ 

during  the  7eS  o?lZ  m,      /  »  company  with  Mr.  BosweU 
as  som^ewhafrfettineSaf  ""  "'  ''^*  '^'^  ^°" 

small  obstacles  and  frequentttlX""    '^'  "  "  ™'''''  "^ 

his  humbler  way  uponThe  s^h     !  fl''^^  "^^^^"^  "^^'^^^  ^^ 
confining  himseff  to  ft        f^T    °^^''  ^'**^"  ^^^^^'  ^"<J'  ^ot 

civilization,  and  Christianity^  "J^rknotCl  t'."^' '^ '^^^^ 

enterprise,  to  das^■pere  in  id  by  ela^a^^^^^ 

meat,  and  his  drink  expatiating  upon  his  bed,  his 

right  when  he  remarks:  '4here Ts  vet -n.^        ""^'^'J  ''  ^^'^ 

nere  is  yet  another  cause  of  error  not 


X  PREFACE. 

always  easily  surmounted,  though  more  dangerous  to  the  veraci- 
ty  of  Itinerary  narratives  than  imperfect  mensuration.  An  ob- 
server deeply  impressed  by  any  remarkable  spectacle  does  not 
suppose  that  the  traces  will  soon  vanish  from  his  mind,  and  hav- 
ing commonly  no  great  convenience  for  writing" -Penn;  and 
more  r  ^  i'f  ^^*^-"  defers  the  description  to  a  time  of 
more  leisure  and  better  accommodation     He  who  has  not  made 

cv  frnTv'^'^'y  .f  ""^^  T"«t°°^'^  *°  ^"^"^^«  "g°^°"«  accura- 
cy from  himself,  will  scarcely  believe  how  much  a  few  houi^  take 

trom  certamty  of  knowledge  and  distinctness  of  imagery  how 
the  succes^on  of  objects  will  be  broken,  how  separate  par^  wUl 
be  confused,  and  how  many  particular  features  and  discrimina- 
tions will  be  found  compressed  and  conglobated  with  one  gross 
and  general  idea."    Brave  words,  somewhat  pompous  and  dif- 
fused, yet  worthy  to  be  written  in  letters  of  gold.    But,  though 
of  the  same  opinion  with  M.  Charles  Didier,  the  Miso-Albion 
(Sejour  Chez  le  Grand-Chdrif  de  la  Mekkeh,  Preface,  p.  vi.),  when 
he  characterizes  "un  voyage  de  fantaisie"  as  "le  pire  de  tons  les 
romans,"  and  with  Admiral  Fitzroy  (Hints  to  Travelers,  p.  3) 
that  the  descriptions  should  be  written  with  the  objects  in  view 
I  would  avoid  the  other  extreme,  viz.,  that  of  publishing,  as  oni 
realistic  age  is  apt  to  do,  mere  photographic  representations. 
Byron  could  not  wnte  verse  when  on  Lake  Leman,  and  the  trav- 
eler  who  puts  forth  his  narrative  without  after-study  and  thought 

To  doubfwi  v^  'r ''""'"  P'°*"^^'  P-Raphaelitic  enough, 
denl  ?f  fu""^- "^T""''  '"^  Perspective-in  artists'  phrase 
depth  and  breadth-m  fact,  a  narrative  about  as  pleasing  to  the 

wois  beThirkr ''''  ^^' '''''-'''  ^™  ^'^'^ '-  ^-  • 

knnwnT^'"^.;;^  '^^  ^f  ^  ^  ^"^"  ^'''^^  "^^^  authorities  well 
known  across   he  water,  but  more  or  less  rare  in  England     The 

books  principally  borrowed  from  are  "The  Prairie  Traveler  "bv 

Captoin  Marcy ;   "Explorations  of  Nebraska,"  by  Lieutenant  G 

ToISth'^'  ""^--^"'^f  ''dictionary' of imeSsms^; 
To  descnbe  these  regions  without  the  aid  of  their  first  explorers 

poss  b  e.    If  I  have  not  always  specified  the  authority  for  a  state- 
ment, It  has  been  rather  for  the  purpose  of  not  wearyfng  the  rlad- 

:;l::rtrer^^ 

In  commenting  upon  what  was  seen  and  heard,  I  have  endear- 


PREFACE. 


:ci 


ored  to  assume — whether  suepp«««ifnll-ir  «t.  r.^*  ..i. 

cide-the  cos^poutao  chJS,:"!  to  avoid  tU^calf  ''• 
especially  in  treating  of  thin™  AmeriLT  ^f  he  capital  error, 

cation,  probitj,  and  honor-not,  asl  was  once  S  1T\ 
get  on  onner  and  cmnest~\s  everrwh^^  thfo       '  T  ""^^  '^^*" 
in  separate  hemispheres     IfTn^L  ?!  ^"'''  *^°"^^  ^^^^^^ 

Far  West  the  brTn^  if '^  i  .  P'^'"''*  transition  state  of  the 
,Z  T  A?  ^''''f}^''^  ly^°g  between  the  Missouri  Eiver  and 
the  Sierra  JSTevada  have  occasionally  been  hnn^i^?  f 

roughly,  I  have  done  no  more  tha^I  should  ht.         T7^^' 

conservative  lands;  the  resulte  of  whichTre  Lt  fl       w  ""  ^l 

nothing  sublunary  is  wholly  exempt- -Z^^^^^  ^-^^^^ 

natura  fecit    Democritus  was  not,  I  bolSveTwhitThpl     "'"  T 
losopher  than  HerofHtna     wx.   r.  '         "  *^^  ^^^^e  phi- 

all  objectors  with  ^  ^^*  *°  challenge 

ridenlcm  dicero  verum 
Quid  vetat  ? 

♦  The  word  is  proposed  bv  Dr  Norfon  ^I^  o       \  ■ 

«l  Society,  and  should  be  gc^nfrallflpted  YnX^^^^^^  '"  «"«  Royal  Geographic- 
vian  what  Indo-Germanic  is  to  Indo  E~  ^"«'°f  "'^^n  »«  to  Anglo-Scandina- 
p..tensions  of  clai.nants  who  e  prind^  ela"  ^  T*^  ''  '^"'""^  ^^«  '»^"-l 

The  coupling  England  with  SaxoCsZi  T  *  ""'°°  "  Pr||ntiousnes«. 

after  a  patriotic  and  fusional  poSl  fS  „  tt/,  Trj*  *''"*  ♦  ^^'^^^^^ 
Kn^^land  united  can  conquer  tEe  worfd  ••  "''  KnightsJ^^Tji,,,,  „„,i 


xu 


PREFACE. 


Finally,  I  would  again  solicit  forbearance  touching  certain  er- 
rors of  omission  and  commission  which  are  to  be  found  in  these 
pages.  Her  most  gracious  majesty  has  been  pleased  to  honor  me 
with  an  appointment  as  Consul  at  Fernando  Po,  in  the  Bight  of 
Biafra,  and  the  necessity  of  an  early  departure  has  limited  me  to 
a  single  reprise. 

14  St.  James'  Squabe,  1st  July,  1861 . 


iill 


CONTENTS. 


OHAP. 

I.    WHY  I  WENT  TO  OBEAT  SALT  LAKE  CITT.— THE  VARIOtJS  ROUTES.— THE  """ 

UNE  OF  COUNTBY  TBAVERSED.— DIARIES  AND  DISQUISITIONS 1 

n.    TUB    810UX  OB   DAKOTAnS... no 

III.  CONCLUDING  TUB   ROUTE  TO  THE  OBKAT   SALT  LAKE  CITY 131 

IV.  FIRST  WEEK   AT  GEBAT  SALT  LAKE    CITY— PBELIMINABIES 208 

V.    SECOND  WEEK  AT  OBEAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY.— VISIT  T     THE  PBOPHET....    287 

VI.    DESCRIPTIVE  OEOORAI'IIY,  ETHNOLOGY,  AND  STATISTICS  OP  UTAH  TEBBI- 

^""^ ?..    272 

VII.    THIRD  WEEK   AT   OBEAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY— EXCUBSION8 822 

VIII.    EXCURSIONS  CON-  'NUED „,„ 

o4o 

IX.    LATTER-DAY   SAINTS.— OF  THE    MOBMON   RELIGION 861 

X.   FABTHEB   OBSERVATIONS  AT  GREAT  SALT   LAKE  CITY 417 

XI.    LAST  DAYS   AT  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITT 44^ 

XII.  TO  RUBY  VALLEY "  ..» 

XHI.  TO  CAB80N  VALLEY ._- 

CONCLUSION 

491) 

APrENOICES 

608 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VAor. 
GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY  FROM  THE  :soRTH Frontispiece. 

ROUTE   FROM  THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  TO   THE  PACIFIC to/aCe  1 

MAP  OF  THE  WASACH   MOUNTAINS   AND  GREAT  SALT  LAKE <'         ] 

GENERAL  MAP  OF  NORTH   AMERICA 1 u         J 

THE   WESTERN  YOKE OO 

CHIMNEY   HOCK -. 

SCOTT'S   BLUFFS ,.. 

INDIANS „. 

PLAN  OF  GREAT  SALT  LAKE   CITY tO  face   193 

STORES   IN  MAIN   STREET igo 

ENDOWMENT  HOUSE   AND  TABERNACLE 221 

THE  PROPHET'S   BLOCK 247 

THE  TABERNACLE 269 

ANCIENT  LAKE   BENCH-LAND 272 

THE   DEAD  SEA g22 

ENSIGN   PEAK gga 

DESERBT    ALPHABET ^OQ 

MOUNT  NEBO ..„ 

FIRST  VIEW  OF  CARSON  LAKE ^gQ 

VIRGINIA  CITY ^ .Qa 

IN  THE   SIERRA   NEVADA -no 


I  — 


H 


ImmnmJ 


*^fmm%t  Zoruftruot  A  (ht 


laitittru  longmimi  i  Q>, 


latXMF.SfMnT 


mmmmmtmiim^ivm 


no 


Wahsfttch  Monutnin* 
GREAT     SALT     LAKE 

(f¥tTm  Oift^  Sttttilhury: 


ui 


in 


/       / 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Why  I  went  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City.— The  various  Routes.— The  Line  of  Country 
traversed.— Diaries  and  Disquisitions. 

^   A  TOUR  through  the  domains  of  Uncle  Samuel  without  visit- 
ing the  wide  regions  of  the  Far  West  would  be,  to  use  a  novel 
simile,  like  seeing  Hamlet  with  the  part  of  Prince  of  Denmark,  bv 
desire,  omitted.    Moreover,  I  had  long  determined  to  add  the  last 
new  name  to  the  list  of  "Holy  Cities;"  to  visit  the  young  rival 
soi-disant,  of  Memphis,  Benares,  Jerusalem,  Rome,  Meccah:  and 
after  having  studied  the  beginnings  of  a  mighty  empire  "in  that 
New  World  which  is  the  Old,"  to  observe  the  origin  and  the  work- 
Ir?    ,  i^  ^-^^^'7  go-a^ead  Western  and  Columbian  revelation 
Mingled  with  the  wish  of  prospecting  the  City  of  the  Great  Salt 
■  Lake  in  a  spiritual  point  of  view,  of  seeing  Utah  as  it  is,  not  as  it 
IS  said  to  be,  was  the  mundane  desire  of  enjoying  a  little  skir- 
mishing with  the  savages,  who  in  the  days  of  Harrison  and  Jack- 
son had  given  the  pale  faces  tough  work  to  do,  and  that  failing 
of  inspecting  the  line  of  route  which  Nature,  according  to  the 
general  consensus  of  guide-books,  has  pointed  out  as  the  proper 
indeed  the  only  practical  direction  for  a  railway  between  the  At- 
antic  and  the  Pacific.    The  commerce  of  the  world,  the  Occiden- 

Sinn?.?,  nAT'^'^/lt' ''  ^"dergoingits  grand  climacteric:  the 
resources  of  India  and  the  nearer  orient  are  now  well-nigh  clear- 
ed of  "loot,"  and  our  sons,  if  they  would  walk  in  the  paths  of 
their  papas,  must  look  to  Cipangri  and  the  parts  about  Cathay 
lor  their  annexations.  ^  v^^i-uajr 

The  Man  was  ready,  the  Hour  hardly  appeared  propitious  for 

1860  an  Indian  war  was  raging  in  Nebraska;  the  Comanches 
Kiowas,  and  Cheyennes  were  "out;"  the  Federal  gov^?nmeS 
had  dispatched  three  columns  to  the'centres  of  confufronHntes 
Sionv' wT"S.  the  aborigines  were  talked  of;  the  Dak^  or 
tT^  K  ?^<^^*^"«d  t°  "wipe  out"  their  old'foe  the  Pawnee 
both  ribes  being  possessors  of  the  soil  over  which  the  roaTran' 
Hornble  accounts  of  murdered  post-boys  and  cannibal  emigrante 
greatly  exaggerated,  as  usual,  for  private  and  pubHc  pu?S 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


filled  the  papers,  and  that  nothing  might  be  wanting,  the  follow- 
ing positive  assertion  (I  afterv,  ard  found  it  to  be,  as  Sir  Charles 
Napier  characterized  one  of  a.  Bombay  editor's  saying,  "a  mark- 
ed and  emphatic  lie")  was  copied  by  full  half  the  press : 

"  Utah  has  a  population  of  some  fifty-two  or  fifty -three  thou- 
sand— more  or  less — ^rascals.  Governor  Gumming  has  informed 
the  President  exactly  how  matters  stand  in  respect  to  them. 
Neither  life  nor  property  is  safe,  he  says,  and  bands  of  depreda- 
tors roam  unpunished  through  the  territory.  The  United  States 
judged  have  abandoned  their  offices,  and  the  law  is  boldly  defied 
every  where.  He  requests  that  500  soldiers  may  be  retained  at 
Utah  to  afford  some  kind,  of  protection  to  American  citizens  who 
are  obliged  to  remain  here." 

"  Mormon"  had  in  fact  become  a  word  of  fear ;  the  Gentiles 
looked  upon  the  Latter-Day  Saints  much  as  our  crusading  ances- 
tors regarded  the  "  Hashshashiyun,"  whose  name,  indeed,  was  al- 
most enough  to  frighten  them.  Mr.  Brigham  Young  was  the 
Shaykh-el-Jebel,  the  Old  Man  of  the  Hill  redivivus,  Messrs.  Kim- 
ball and  Wells  were  the  chief  of  his  Fidawin,  and  "  Zion  on  the 
tops  of  the  mountains"  formed  a  fair  representation  of  Alamut. 

"  Going  among  the  Mormons  I"  said  Mr.  M to  me  at  New 

Orleans ;  "  they  are  shooting  and  cutting  one  another  in  all  di- 
rections ;  how  can  you  expect  to  escape  ?" 

Another  general  assertion  was  that  "White  Indians" — those 
Mormons  again! — had  assisted  the  "  Washoes,"  "Pah  Utes,"  and 
"Bannacks"  in  the  fatal  affair  near  Honey  Lake,  where  Major 
Ormsby,  of  the  militia,  a  military  frontier-lawyer,  and  his  forty 
men,  lost  the  numbers  of  their  mess. 

But  sagely  thus  reflecting  that  "  dangers  which  loom  large  from 
afar  generally  lose  size  as  one  draws  near ;"  that  rumors  of  wars 
might  have  arisen,  ns  they  are  wont  to  do,  from  the  political  ne- 
cessity for  another  "  Indian  botheration,"  as  editors  call  it ;  that 
Governor  Cumming's  name  might  have  been  used  in  vain ;  that 
even  the  President  might  not  have  been  a  Pope,  infallible ;  and 
that  the  Mormons  might  turn  out  somewhat  less  black  than  they 
were  painted ;  moreover,  having  so  frequently  and  willfully  risk- 
ed the  chances  of  an  "  I  told  you  so  from  the  lips  of  friends, 
those  "prophets  of  the  past;"  and,  finally,  having  been  so  much 
struck  with  the  discovery  by  some  Western  man  of  an  enlarged 
truth,  viz.,  that  the  bugbear  approached  has  more  affinity  to  the 
bug  than  to  the  bear,  I  resolved  to  risk  the  chance  of  t'lic  "  red 
nightcap"  from  the  bloodthirsty  Indian  and  the  poisoned  bowie- 
dagger — without  my  Eleonora  or  Berengaria — from  the  jealous 
Latter-Day  Saints.  I  forthwith  applied  myself  to  the  audacious 
task  with  all  the  recklessness  of  a  "  party"  from  town  precipita- 
ting himself  for  the  first  time  into  "foreign  parts"  about  Calais. 

And,  first,  a  few  words  touching  routes. 

As  all  the  world  knows,  there  are  three  main  lines  proposed 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


ms" — those 


for  a  "Pacific  Eailroad"  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  West- 
ern  Ocean,  the  Northern,  Central,  and  Southern.^ 

The  first,  or  Bntish,  was  in  my  case  not  to  be  thought  of-  it 
mvolves  semi-starvation,  possibly  a  thorough  plundering  by  the 

Sir%f  ^V  A*  """i  ^^'t,^^''?'  ^^«  °^  ^^  months  ofVow 
travel.  The  third,  or  Southern,  known  as  the  Butterfield  oT 
American  Express,  offered  to  start  me  in  an  ambulance  from  St 
Louis,  and  to  pass  me  through  Arkansas,  El  Paso,  Fort  Yuma  on 

tion  of  the  West.  Twentyfour  mortal  days  and  nights-tweSty- 
fiye  being  schedule  time-must  be  spent  ii  that  ambulance ;  pal 
sengers  becommg  crazy  by  whisky,4nixed  with  want  of  sleep,  are 
cd  d^^Sn^fl^  ?  ^'  strapped  to  their  seats;  their  meals,  dispK 

are  cxSve'ttH-^'^?  ^"^  ^''  ^^?P^^  abominable  the^heats 
S  for  w  P  ^'°'?*^  malanous;  lamps  may  not  be  used  at 
night  for  fear  of  unexistmg  Indians:  briefly,  there  is  no  end  to 

the  Speech  of  the  Hon  Jefferson  dS?«  ^rMl'P-P'-*°  ^^^  ^'^^'^  ««  ^''^acted  from 
in  the  United  States  SonmjlZ^TH'if  !^T'"''f^]'u°'' ^^%  ^"""'=  K^"*«y  Bi" 
in  the  "Geography  and^esorer^^rrizl^rlnTsni'r^  "°"  Sylvester ianry 


RODTIS. 


Route  nearforty-eeventh  and  forty- 
ninth  parallels,  from  St.  Paul  to 

Seattle 

Route  near  forty-seventh  and  forty- 
ninth  parallels,  from  St.  Paul  to 

Vancouver 

Route  near  forty-first  and  "foVty- 
eecond  parallels,  from  Rock  Isl- 
and,  via  South  Pass,  to  Dcnlcla. . . 
Route  near  thlrty-eiglith  and  thirty- 
ninth  parallel*,  from  St.  I^uls,  via 
too^ho-to-pa  and  Tah-ee-chay- 
pah  passes  to  San  Francisco 
Route  near  thirty-eighth  and  thiVtyl 
ninth  parallels,  from  St.  Louis 
via  Coo-choo-to-pa  and  Madeline 

Passes,  to  Ilentcla 

Route  near  thirty-fifth  paralleLfrom 

Memphis  to  San  Frauclsco. 

Route  near  thirty-second  paralioK 

from  Memphis  to  San  Pedro 

Route  near  thirty-second  parallel, 
near    Gaines'    Ijjndinp,  to    Sau 

Francisco  by  coast  route 

Route  near  tliirty-second  parallel, 

fromOainos'Unding  to  San  Pedro 

Route  near  thirty-second  parallel, 

from  (Jnlnes'  Lnnding  to  Ran  Piegn 


I. 


II 


MildfT 


1065 


1800 


2325 

2536 
230Q 
2090 

21T4 
1T49 

losn 


u 

e 


Feet. 
18,664 
1T,645 
29,120* 

49,985t 

50,5141 
48,621t 
48,8«2t 

88,200} 
30,1815 
33,4545 


'S  a 


Uollan. 
136,871,000 
425,781,000 
122,770,000 

Improcticablo. 

Impracticable, 

113,000,000 

09,000,000 

94,000,000 
72,000,000 
72,000,000 


ss 


*  J:  H 


535 
374 
899 

8C5 

916 
010 

690 

984 
553 
524 


o  e  u  •  0 
•  *  o  •  — 

o  c  ri  «  tc  01 


5S| 


"5  a 


•  ail. 


1490 
14C0 
1400 

1460 

1020 
1460 

1400 

IICO 
1190 
1169 


Feet. 
6,044 
6,044 
8,373 

10,032 

10,032 
7,550 
7,550 

6,717 
6,717 
6,717 


not  WluS^d  ?n"tWs''»?,m  """  '^'^'""'  ""^^  '"""'^ '""'  ^'">'"="  "'"'f''  »"  °°'  '^'"^».  ""d  "'e^foro 
clnd^UnThi™  urn""  '^""""'''  '^"'"'"  ^'^  ^'*'"'*  ""^  ^-^^'P"''  '^  "<"  ^"^^  ""I  "'««foro  not  in- 
chUdXirt^in"'' '"'""""'  ''"*''*^°  *"'"P""'  '"'*  ^'"*  Smith  are  not  known,  and  therefore  not  in- 
inch^d'eS  In'tWs  smn."""'"''  '^'^■**"  ^'""*'*  ^""""S  ""«'  ^""«»  ««  "o*  known,  and  therefore  not 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  I. 


this  Via  Mala's  miseries.  The  line  received  from  the  United 
States  government  upward  of  half  a  million  of  dollars  per  annum 
for  carrying  the  mails,  and  its  contract  had  still  nearly  two  years 
to  run. 

There  remained,  therefore,  the  central  route,  which  has  two 
branches.  You  may  start  by  stage  to  the  gold  regions  about 
Denver  City  or  Pike's  Peak,  and  thence,  if  not  accidentally  or 
purposely  shot,  you  may  proceed  by  an  uncertain  ox-train  to 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  which  latter  part  can  not  take  less  than 
thirty-five  days.  On  the  other  hand,  there  is  "the  great  emigra- 
tion route"  from  Missouri  to  California  and  Oregon,  over  which 
so  many  thousands  have  traveled  within  the  past  few  years.  I 
quote  from  a  useful  little  volume,  "The  Prairie  Traveler,"*  by 
Randolph  B.  Marcy,  Captain  U.  S.  Arniy.  "  The  track  is  broad, 
well  worn,  and  can  not  be  mistaken.  It  has  received  the  major 
part  of  the  Mormon  emigration,  and  was  traversed  by  the  army 
m  its  march  to  Utah  in  1857." 

The  mail-coach  on  this  line  was  established  in  1850,  by  Colonel 
Samuel  H.  Woodson,  an  eminent  lawyer,  afterward  an  M.  C,  and 
right  unpopular  with  Mormondom,  because  he  sacrilegiously  own- 
ed part  of  Temple  Block,  in  Independence,  Mo.,  which  is  the  old 
original  New  Zion.  The  following  are  the  rates  of  contract  and 
the  phases  through  which  the  line  nas  passed. 

1.  Colonel  Woodson  received  for  carrying  a  monthly  mail 
$19,500  (or  $23,000?]:  length  of  contract  4  years. 

2.  Mr.  F.  M'Graw,  $13,500,  besides  certain  considerable  extras. 

3.  Messrs.  Ileber  Kimball  &  Co.  (Mormons),  $23,000. 

4.  Messrs.  Jones  &  Co.,  $30,000. 

6.  Mr.  J.  M.  Hockaday,  weekly  mail,  $190,000. 

6.  Messrs.  Russell,  Majors,  &  Waddell,  army  contractors ;  weekly 
mail,  $190,000.t 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  in  1856  the  transit  was  in  the  hands 
of  the  Latter-Day  Saints :  they  managed  it  well,  but  tliey  lost  the 
contracts  during  their  troubles  with  the  federal  government  in 
1857,  when  it  again  fell  into  Gentile  possession.  In  those  early 
days  it  had  but  three  changes  of  mules,  at  Forts  Bridger,  Lara- 
mie, and  Kearney.  In  May,  1859,  it  was  taken  up  by  the  present 
firm,  which  expects,  by  securing  the  monopoly  of  the  whole  line 
between  the  Missouri  River  and  San  Francisco,  an^^  "" >y  'anvass- 
ing  at  head-quarters  for  a  bi-wrokly — which  they  nu;  j  ::')v.  ob- 
tained— and  even  a  daily  transit,  which  shall  cons+'tutioaailj  ex- 
tinguish the  Mormon  community,  to  insert  the  fi.w  -I^^  oi  that 

*  Printed  by  Messrs.  Harper  &  Brothers,  New  York,  IS.IO,  and  Messrs.  Sampson 
Low,  Son,  and  Co.,  Ludgato  Hill,  and  amply  meriting  the  honors  of  a  second  edi- 
tion. 

t  In  the  American  Almnnnc  for  l«fil  (p.  196),  the  longth  of  routes  in  Utah  Ter- 
rinry  is  1450  miles,  r»33  of  which  e  no  sjKicified  mode  of  transportation,  and  the 
reni.tin.  •.  "77,  in  coaches;  the  u  transportation  is  thus  170.872  miles,  and  the 
tot-'  c*  V  5ill4,G»5 


Chap.  I. 


THE  UTAH  LINE. 


5 


wedge  which  is  to  open  an  aperture  for  the  Pacific  Railroad  about 
to  be.    At  Saint  Joseph  (Mo.),  better  known  by  the  somewhat 
irreverent  abbreviation  of  St,  Jo,  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Alex- 
ander Majors,  formerly  one  of  the  contractors  for  supplying  the 
army  in  Utah— a  veteran  mountaineer,  familiar  with  life  on  the 
prairies.    His  meritorious  efforts  to  reform  the  morals  of  the  land 
have  not  yet  put  forth  even  the  bud  of  promise.     He  forbade  his 
drivers  and  emplovds  to  drink,  gamble,  curse,  and  travel  on  Sun- 
days ;  he  desired  them  to  peruse  Bibles  distributed  to  them  gratis ; 
and  though  he  refrained  from  a  lengthy  proclamation  command- 
ing his  Leges  to  be  good  boys  and  girls,  he  did  not  the  less  expect 
It  of  thejn.    Results :  I  scarcely  ever  saw  a  sober  driver ;  as  for 
profanity-  t^.e  "Western  equivalent  for  hard  swearing— they  would 
make  the  blush  of  shame  crimson  the  cheek  of  the  oldlsis  bargee; 
and,  ];!re  exceptions  to  the  ruje  of  the  United  States,  they  are  not 
to  be  deterred  from  evil  talking  even  by  the  dread  presence  of  a 
Jadjr.      The  conductors  and  road-agents  are  of  a  class  superior 
to  the  drivers ;  they  do  their  harm  by  an  inordinate  ambition  to 
distinguish  themselves.    I  met  one  gentleman  who  owned  to  three 
murders,  and  another  individual  who  lately  attempted  to  ration 
the  niules  with  wild  sage.    The  company  was  by  no  means  rich  • 
already  the  papers  had  prognosticated  a  failure,  in  consequence 
of  the  government  withdrawing  its  supplies,  and  it  seemed  to 
have  hit  upon  the  happy  expedient  of  badly  entreating  travelers 
that  good  may  come  to  it  of  our  evils.     The  hours  and  halting- 
places  were  equally  vilely  selected;  for  instance,  at  Forts  Kear- 
ney, Laramie,  and  Bridger,  the  only  points  where  supplies,  com- 
fort, society,  are  procurable,  a  few  minutes  of  grumbling  delay 
were  granted  as  a  favor,  and  the  passengers  were  hurried  on  to 
some  distant  wretched  ranch,*  apparently  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
putting  a  few  dollars  into  the  station-master's  pockets.    The  travel 
was  unjustifiably  slow,  even  in  this  land,  where  progress  is  mostly 
on  paper.    From  St.  Jo  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  the  mails  might 
easily  be  landed  during  the  fine  weather,  without  inconvenience 
to  man  or  beast,  in  ten  days;  indeed,  the  agents  have  offered  to 
place  them  at  Placerville  in  fifteen.    Yet  the  schedule  time  being 
twenty-one  days,  passengers  seldom  reached  their  destination  be- 
ore  the  nineteenth;  the  sole  reason  given  was,  that  snow  makes 
the  road  difficult  in  its  season,  and  that  if  people  were  accustomed 
to  fa.t  travel,  and  if  letters  were  received  under  schedule  time 
tliey  would  look  upon  the  boon  as  a  right. 

Before  proceeding  to  our  preparations  for  travel,  it  may  be  as 
well  to  cast  a  glance  at  the  land  to  be  traveled  over. 

•  "Raneho"in  Mexico  means  primarily  a  rude  thatched  hut  where  herdsman 
pa.s«  the  n.ght;  the  "rancharia"  i.  a  sheep-walk  or  cattle-run,  dirnguiSfmm 
a    'hac.endn,"  winch  must  contain  cultivation.     In  California  it  is  a  large  famV 


9 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


The  United  States  territory  lying  in  direct  line  between  the 
Mississippi  Eiver  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  now  about  1200  miles 
.  long  from  north  to  south,  bj  1500  of  breadth,  in  49°  and  82°  N". 
lat.,  about  equal  to  Equatorial  Africa,  and  1800  in  N".  lat.  38°.' 
The  great  uncultivable  belt  of  plain  and  mountain  region  through 
which  the  Pacific  Kailroad  must  run  has  a  width  of"nOO  statute 
miles  near  the  northern  boundary ;  in  the  central  line  1200  • 
and  through  the  southern,  1000.  Humboldt  justly  ridiculed  the 
"  maddest  natural  philosopher"  who  compared  the  American  con- 
tinent to  a  female  figure— long,  thin,  watery,  and  freezing  at  the 
58th°,  the  degrees  bemg  symbolic  of  the  year  at  which  woman 
grows  old.  Such  description  manifestly  will  not  apply  to  the 
2,000,000  of  square  miles^n  this  section  of  the  Great  Eepublic— 
she  is  every  where  broader  than  she  is  long. 

The  meridian  of  105°  north  longitude  (G.)— Fort  Laramie  lies 
in  104°  31'  26"— divides  this  vast  expanse  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts.  The  eastern  half  is  a  basin  or  river  vuUey  rising  gradhallv 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Black  Hills,  and  the  other  out!  yini 
ranges  of  the  Eoclcy  Mountains.  The  average  elevation  near  the 
northern  boundary  (49°)  is  2500  feet,  in  the  middle  latitude  (38°) 
0000  leet,  and  near  the  soutl  em  extremity  (32°),  about  4000  feet 
above  sea  level.  These  figures  explain  the  complicated  features 
of  Its  water-shed.  The  western  half  is  a  mountain  region  whose 
chains  extend,  as  far  as  they  are  known,  in  a  general  N.  and  S 
direction. 

The  99th  meridian  (G.)— Fort  Kearney  lies  in  98°  G8'  11"— 
divides  the  western  half  of  the  Mississippian  Valley  into  two  un- 
equal parts. 

The  eastern  portion,  from  the  Missouri  to  Fort  Keamoy— 400 
to  500  miles  m  breadth- may  be  called  the  "  Prairie  land  "  It 
is  true  that  passing  westward  of  the  97°  meridian,  the  mammscs 
krrcs  OT  Bad  Grounds,  arc  here  and  there  met  with,  cspcciallv 
near  the  42d  parallel,  in  which  latitude  they  extend  farther  to  the 
ciist,  and  that  upward  to  99°  the  land  is  rarely  fit  for  cultivation 
though  fair  for  grazing.  Yet  along  the  course  of  the  frequent 
streams  there  is  valuable  soil,  and  often  sufficient  wood  to  support 
settlements.  This  territory  is  still  ])o.sscsscd  by  settled  Indians 
by  semi-nomads,  and  by  powerful  tribes  of  equestrian  and  wan- 
dering savages,  mixed  with  a  few  white  men,  who,  as  might  be 
expected,  excel  them  in  cunning  and  ferocity. 

The  western  portion  of  the  valley,  from  Fort  Kearney  to  the 
base  of  the  Kocky  Mountains— a  breadth  of  800  to  400  miles— is 
Ch.phatically  "the  desert,"  sterile  and  uncultivable,  a  droarv  ex- 
parse  of  wild  sage  (artcmisia)  and  saleratus.  The  surface  is  siuidy 
gravelly,  and  pebbly ;  cactus  carduus  and  aloos  abound  ;  crass  is 
found  only  in  the  rare  river  bot'oms  wlicre  the  soils  of  the  differ- 
ent strata  arc  mixed  and  the  fe  /  trees  along  the  borders  of  streams 
—tertilc  lines  of  wadis,  which  laborious  irrigation  and  coul  mining 


Chap.  1. 


THE  WESTERN  GRAZING-GROUNDS. 


might  convert  into  oases— are  the  cotton-wood  and  willow  to  which 
the  raezquite*  may  be  added  in  the  southern  latitudes.  The  des- 
ert is  mostly  uninhabited,  unendurable  even  to  the  wildest  Indian 
But  the  people  on  its  eastern  and  western  frontiers,  namely  those 
holding  the  extreme  limits  of  the  fertile  prairie,  and  those  occupv- 
ing  the  desirable  regions  of  the  western  mountains,  are,  to  quote 
the  words  of  Lieutenant  Gouvemeur  K.  Warren,  U.  S.  Topooraph- 
ical  Engineers,  whose  valuable  reconnaissances  and  expfan°ations 
of  Nebraska  in  1855,  '56,  and  '57  were  published  in  the  Reports 
of  the  Secretary  of  AVar,  "  on  the  shore  of  a  sea,  up  to  which  pop- 
ulation and  agriculture  may  advance  and  no  farther.  But  this 
gives  these  outposts  much  of  the  value  of  places  along  the  Atlan- 
tic frontier,  in  view  of  the  future  settlements  to  be  formed  in  the 
mountains,  between  which  and  the  present  frontier  a  most  valua- 
ble trade  would  exist  The  western  frontier  has  always  been  look- 
ing to  the  east  for  a  market;  but  as  soon  as  the  wave  of  emigra- 

i;«!!.  •^''""f  ""i^^^  *^^  '^f  ^''^  P°''^^°^  of  the  plains,  to  which  the 
di  covenes  of  go  d  have  already  given  an  impetus  that  will  pro- 
pel It  to  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  Kocky  Mountains  then  will  the 
present  frontier  of  Kansas  and  Nebraslibecome  S star Sng  pit  ' 
o7tt  t"  ^'"f^'''  %'^''  Mississinpi  Valley  which  the  popSCn 
^Llfi..  Twf  ""'^  ""l^/^-  ^^«  «««  ^^^  effects  of  it  in  the 
benefits  which  the  western  frontier  of  Missouri  has  received  from 
the  Santa  Jo  tract  and  still  more  plainly  in  the  impetus  given  t^ 
Leavenworth  by  the  operations  of^tho  army  of  Uta\  in  tlio  inte^ 
nor  region.  tLs  flow  of  products  has,  in  the  last  instance'  beSi 
only  in  one  direction ;  but  when  those  mountains  become  settled 
as  tl  oy  eventuallv  must  t  ,cu  there  will  be  a  reciprocal  trade  S 
terially  beneficial  to  both. '  ^ 

Prf^nvf"'°r*''i''/^^''°'','''^^*'^^f^  °^*^^«  «"g«  and  saleratus  des- 
ert, extending  between  the  105th  and  111th  meridian  (G)-a  lit- 
^e  more  than  400  miles-will  in  time  become  sparely  Lpled. 

long  bunch  grass  (/?1'.^;.«,,  the  short  curly  buffalo  grass  (Suskna 
ck^c!/Io>deAtlo  niosquit  grass  (A7/;>«  .spafa),  and  tlif  Gramma  o? 

am),  t  which  clothe  the  slopes  west  of  Fort  Laramie,  will  cnallo 
t  to  rear  an  abundance  of  stock.     The  fertile  valleys,  accorS 

to  Lieutenant  Warren,  "furnish  the  means  of  raisW  suffic en? 

qua,,  .ties  of  grain  and  vegetables  for  the  use  of  the  fihab itanZ 

a  ul  bcautilu    healthy  and  desirable  locations  for  their  homes 
ll,e  remarkable  freedom  here  from  sickness  is  one  of  the  Set 

ive  features  of  the  region,  and  will  in  this  respect  go  far  to  com- 

IlitpSiSn'."''"""""'''  '""'■'"''  "'°  """'^  '■'•°"'  «'•"  «^««''  '^''"^  ot'-c"  make  It 


w:- 


4 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


pensate  the  settler  from  the  Mississippi  Valley  for  his  loss  in  the 
smaller  amount  of  prodwcts  that  can  be  taken  from  the  soil.   The 
great  want  of  suitable  building  material,  which  now  so  seriously 
retards  the  growth  of  the  West,  will  not  be  felt  there."     The 
heights  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  rise  abruptly  from  1000  to  6000 
feet  over  the  lowest  known  passes,  computed  by  the  Pacific  Rail 
road  surveyors  to  vary  from  4000  to  10,000  feet  above  sea-level 
Ihe  two  chams  formmg  the  eastern  and  western  rims  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  basin  have  the  greatest  elevation,  walling  in,  as  it  were 
the  other  sub-ranges.  ' 

There  is  a  popular  idea  that  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  is  smooth  and  regular;  on  the  contrary,  the  land  is 
rougher,  and  the  gi.  imd  is  more  complicated  than  on  the  eastern 
dechviLies.    From  the  summit  of  fhe  Wasach  range  to  the  eastern 
foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  whole  region,  with  exceptions,  is  a 
howhng  wilderness,  the  sole  or  bed  of  an  inland  sweetwater  sea 
now  shrunk  .mto  its  remnants-the  Great  Salt  and  the  Utah  Lakes 
No  hing  can  be  more  monotonous  than  its  regular  succession  of 
.  high  grisly  hills  cut  peroendicularb  by  rough^and  roky  ravers 
and  separating  bare  an^  barren  plains.     From  the  seaward  base 

l^uCT^'l^'^'f''  *^t^i«Pf' fi'^-t^'alifornia-the  slope  is  ea^y! 
and  the  land  is  pleasant,  fertile,  and  populous 

After  this  aj)er^u  of  the  motives  which  sent  me  forth,  once  more 
am  grim,  to  young  Mcccah  in  the  West,  of  the  various  routes,  and 
sonal'nStive''"    '^  ""'"^'"'^^ ""''''  ^  P^""SC  at  once  into'per- 

Lieutenant  Dana  (IJ.  S.  Artillery),  my  future  compa<jnon  de  voy- 
Z^^tnfT'Z'^'",  tnrning-back  pl^ce  of  English  sportsmen?' 
for  St.  Jo  on  the  2d  of  August,  preceding  me  by  two  days.  Be- 
ing accompanied  by  lus  wife  and  child,  and  bound  on  a  wonrv 
voyage  to  Camp  Floyd,  Utah  Territory  he  nVturally  w^ild  ^ 
certain  amount  of  precise  infornuation  Lcernhg^^^^^^ 

aL7t  i    7'tr^"'''"'  '  '^^"^  ^'"^  '\  '^'^'  "^^  -^"^  k»°ws  any  thi  g 
about  It.   Li  the  same  railway  car  which  carried  me  from  St  LouS 
were  five  pa^cngers  all  bent  upon  making  Utah  with  Se  least 
delay-an  unexpected  cargo  of  olRcials :  Mr  F********  TfJht^ 
judge  with  two  sons;  Mr.  AV*****  a  state  secretary 'and  Mr 
G--,  a  state  marshal.    As  the  soc,ud  may  show,  Dana  Iv's  Lub 
ly  fortu'iatc  in  securing  places  before  the  list  could  be  filT«     n  by 
lio  unusual  throng:  aU  we  thought  of  at  the  time  w.-^^  oHoo'd 
luck  m  escaping  a  s.-ptidinm  at  St.  Jo.  whence  the  staTsZal  on 
Tuesday.s  only.     We  hurried,  therefore,  to  pay  for  oin-  tickotl- 
$175  each  being  the  moderate  .^um-to  reduce  our  luLm^to  its 
muumum  approach  toward  25  lbs.,  the  price  of  tran^^ort'?or  ex 

on  is  in  ,1.0  n,i.l.  I,.      nJvo„  i'r  Ki  hi  Homo  Mr  ' 'i  ^'"''  T't,"''  ^'"'■•■'''  "'"  -"'"■ 
licH  alx.ut  N.  I«,.  ao  ■  4<)'  nnd  W  "long  fu  Hi"  %^'^''  "^  ^■"'''-     ''''•  ^"^''1'''  (M-O 


i 


Chap.  I. 


KIT. 


9 


:  in,  as  it  were, 


cess  being  exorbitantly  fixed  at  $1  per  lb.,  and  to  lay  in  a  few 
necessaries  for  the  way,  tea  and  sugar,  tobacco  and  cognac.  I  will 
not  take  liberties  with  my  company's  "kit;"  my  own,  however 
was  represented  as  follows :  ' 

One  India-rubber  blanket,  pierced  in  the  centre  for  a  poncho 
and  garnished  alopg  the  longer  side  with  buttons,  and  correspond- 
ing clastic  loops  with  a  strap  at  the  short  end,  converting  it  into 
a  carpet-bag— a  "  sine  qua  non"  from  the  equator  to  the  p'ole.  A 
buffalo  robe  ought  to  have  been  added  as  a  bed :  ignorance,  how- 
ever, prevented,  and  borrowing  did  the  rest.  With  one's  coat  as 
a  pillow,  a  robe,  and  a  blanket,  one  maV  defy  the  dangerous 
"bunks"  of  the  stations. 

For  weapons  I  carried  two  revolvers:  from  the  nwment  of 
leaving  St.  Jo  to  the  time  of  reaching  Placcrville  or  Sacramento 
the  pistol  should  never  be  absent  from  a  man's  right  side— re- 
member. It  IS  handier  thexc  than  on  the  other— nor  the  bowie- 
knife  from  his  left.     Contingencies  with  Indians  and  others  may 
happen,  when  the  difference  of  a  second  saves  life:  the  revolver 
should  therefore  be  carried  with  its  butt  to  the  fore,  and  when 
drawn  It  should  not  be  leveled  as  in  target  practice,  but  directed 
toward  the  object  by  means  of  the  right  fore  finger  laid  flat  along 
the  cylinder  while  the  medius  draws  the  trigger.     The  instinct- 
ive consent  between  eye  and  hand,  combined  with  a  little  prac- 
tice will  soon  enable  the  beginner  to  shoot  correctly  from  the  hio- 
all  he  Has  to  do  is  to  think  that  he  is  pointing  at  the  mark,  and 
pull.     As  a  precaution,  especially  when  mounted  upon  a  kicking 
horse  it  IS  wise  to  place  the  cock  upon  a  caplcss  nipple,  rather 
than  trust  to   ho  intermcdiato  pins.     In  dangerous  places  the  re- 
volver should  be  discharged  and  reloaded  every  morning,  both 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  hand  in,  and  to  do  the  weapon 
justice.     A  revolver  is  an  admirable  tool  when  properly  used- 
those,  however,  who  arc  too  idle  or  careless  to  attend  to  it  had 
better  carry  a  nair  of  "  Derringers."     For  the  benefit  of  buffalo 
TnC"T\  ^  h^  'T'^'f  ^20  at  St.  Louis  in  a  "  shooting-iron" 
hi  DonviJ^";'  t'"'-  '^^^'~;'^"'  enterprising  individual  now  dwells 
in  IJcnyei  City-it  was  a  long,  top-heavy  rifle ;  it  weighed  12  lbs 
and  It  earned  the  smallest  ball-75  to  the  pound-a  comb  nation 
highly  conducive  to  good  practice.     Those,  however,  who  can 
use  light  weapons,  shou  d  prefer  the  Maynard  breech-loader^whh 
an  extra  barrel  f^,r  small  shot;  and  if  llulian  fighting  is  in'pros 

Ce  112  f'f  *^  '  ""^^^i^"'  1"7  TTI^t'"".  i«  a  ponderous  double- 
barrel,  12  to  the  pound,  and  loaded  as  fully  as  it  can  boar  with 
slugs.  1  ho  last  of  the  battery  was  au  air-gun  to  astonish  the  na- 
tives, and  ft  bag  uf  various  ammunition. 

Captain  Marcy  outfits  his  prairie  traveler  with  a  "littlo  blue 
mass,  quinine,  opinin,  and  some  cathartic  medicine  put  up  in  doses 
^)r  ndults."  I  Unnu^  myself  to  the  opium,  whicll  is  iiivaluabL 
when  one  expects  five  consecutive  daya  and  nighta  in  a  prairie 


10 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


I 


I 


wagon,  quinine,  and  Warburg's  drops,  without  which  no  traveler 
should  ever  face  fever,  and  a  little  citric  acid,  which,  with  green 
tea  drawn  off  the  moment  the  leaf  has  sunk,  is  perhaps  the  best 
substitute  for  milk  and  cream.    The  "  holy  weed  Nicotian"  was 
not  forgotten ;  cigars  must  be  bought  in  extraordinary  quantities 
as  the  driver  either  receives  or  takes  the  lion's  share :  the  most 
satisfactory  outfit  is  a  qxinntum  sufficit  of  Louisiana  Pirique  and 
Lynchburg  gold-leaf—cavendish  without  its  abominations  of  rum 
and  honey  or  molasses — and  two  pipes,  a  meerschaum  for  luxury 
and  a  brier-root  to  fa]^  back  upon  when  the  meerschaum  shall 
have  been  stolen.    The  Indians  will  certainly  pester  for  matches- 
the  best  lighting  apparatus,  therefore,  is  the  Spanish  mechero,  the 
Oriental  sukhtah — agate  and  cotton  match — besides  which  it  of- 
fers a  pleasing  exercise,  like  billiards,  and  one  at  which  the  Brit- 
ish soldier  greatly  excels,  surpassed  only  by  his  exquisite  skill  in 
stuffing  the  pipe. 

For  literary  purposes,  I  had,  besides  the  two  books  above 
quoted,  a  few  of  the  great  guns  of  exploration,  Frdmont,  Stans- 
bury,  and  Gunnison,  with  a  selection  of  the  most  violent  Mormon 
and  Anti-Mormon  polemicals,  sketching  materials— I  prefer  the 
"improved  metal) ics"  five  inches  long,  and  serving  for  both  diary 
and  drawing-book— and  a  tourist's  writing-case  of  those  sold  by 
Mr.  Field  (Bible  Warehouse,  The  Quadrant),  with  but  one  altera- 
tion, a  snap  lock,  to  obviate  the  use  of  that  barbarous  invention 
called  a  key.    For  instruments  I  carried  a  pocket  sextant  with  a 
double  face,  invented  by  Mr.  George,  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical 
Society,  and  beautifully  made  by  Afessrs.  Gary,  an  artificial  hori- 
zon of  black  glass,  and  bubble  tubes  to  level  it,  night  and  day 
compasses,  with  a  portable  affair  attached  to  a  watch-chain— a 
traveler  feels  nervous  till  he  can  "orienter"  himself— a  pocket 
thermometer,  and  a  B.  P.  ditto.     The  only  safe  form  for  tlic  lat- 
ter would  bo  a  strong  necklcss  tube,  the  lieavy  pyriform  bulbs  in 
general  use  never  failing  to  break  at  the  first  opportunity     A 
Stanhope  lens,  a  railway  whistle,  and  instead  of  the  binocular 
useful  things  of  earth,  a  very  valueless  telescope— (warranted  by 
the  maker  to  show  Jupiter's  satellites,  and  by  utterly  docilining 
80  to  do,  reading  a  lesson  touching  the  non-advisability  of  believ- 
ing an  instrument-maker)— completed  the  outfit. 
^  The  prairie  traveler  is  not  particular  about  toilet:  the  easiest 
dress  la  a  dark  flannel  shirt,  worn  over  the  normal  article  •  no 
braces— I  say  it,  despite  Mr.  Galton— bui  broad  leather  belt  for 
"8ix-8lioot«r    and  for  "  Arkansas  tooth-pick,"  a  long  cla«j)-knife 
or  for  the  rapier  of  the  Western  world,  called  after  the  hero  who 
perished  in  the  "red  butchery  of  the  Alamo."    The  nether  gar- 
ments should  bo  forked  with  good  buckskin,  or  they  will  infalli- 
bly give  out,  and  the  lower  end  should  bo  tucked  into  the  Iwots, 
after  the  sensible  fashion  of  our  grandfathew,  before  those  ridicu- 
lous Wellingtons  were  dreamed  of  by  our  sires.    la  warm  wcath- 


at 


Chap.  I. 


TOILET. 


11 


er,  a  pair  of  moccasins  will  be  found  easy  as  slippers,  but  they  are 
bad  for  wet  places ;  they  make  the  feet  tender,  they  strain  the 
back  sinews,  and  they  form  the  first  symptom  of  the  savage  mania. 
Socks  keep  the  feet  cold ;  there  are,  however,  those  who  should 
take  six  pair.  The  use  of  the  pocket-handkerchief  is  unknown 
in  the  plains ;  some  people,  however,  are  uncomfortable  without 
it,  not  liking  "  se  emungere"  after  the  fashion  of  Horace's  father. 
In  cold  weather — and  rarely  are  the  nights  warm — there  is 
nothing  better  than  the  old  English  tweed  shooting-jacket,  made 
with  pockets  like  a  poacher's,  and  its  similar  waistcoat,  a  "  stom- 
ach warmer"  without  a  roll  collar,  which  prevents  comfortable 
sleep,  and  with  flaps  as  in  the  Year  of  Grace  1760,  when  men 
were  too  wise  to  wear  our  senseless  vests,  whose  only  property 
seems  to  be  that  of  disclosing  after  exertions  a  lucid  mtcrval  of 
linen  or  longcloth.  For  driving  and  riding,  a  large  pair  of  buck- 
skm  gloves,  or  rather  gauntlets,  without  which  even  the  teamster 
vnll  not  travel,  and  leggins— the  best  are  made  in  the  country, 
only  the  straps  should  be  passed  through  and  sewn  on  to  the 
leathers—are  advisable,  if  at  least  the  man  at  all  regards  his  epi- 
dermis :  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  bid  you  remember  spurs,  but 
it  may  be  useful  to  warn  you  that  they  will,  like  riches,  make  to 
themselves  wings.  The  head-covering  by  excellence  is  a  brown 
felt,  which,  by  a  little  ingenuity,  boring,  for  instance,  holes  round 
the  brim  to  admit  a  ribbon,  you  may  convert  into  a  riding-hat  or 
night-cap,  and  wear  alternately  after  the  manly  slouch  of  Crom- 
well and  his  Martyr,  the  funny  three-cornered' spittoon-like  "shov- 
el" of  the  Dutch  Georges,  and  the  ignoble  cocked-hat,  which  com- 
pletes the  hideous  metamorphosis. 

And,  above  all  things,  as  you  value  your  nationality— this  is 
written  for  the  benefit  of  the  home  reader— let  no  false  shante 
cause  you  to  forget  your  hat-box  and  your  umbrella.  I  purpose, 
when  a  moment  of  inspiration  waits  upon  leisure  and  a  mind  at 
ease,  to  invent  an  elongated  portmanteau,  which  shall  be  pcrfec- 
tion— portable— solid  leather  of  two  colors,  for  easy  distinc^uish- 
ment— snap  lock— in  length  about  three  feet ;  in  fact,  lon^  enough 
to  contain  without  creasing  "small  clothes,"  a  lateral  compart- 
ment  destined  for  a  hat,  and  a  longitudinal  space  where  the  um- 
brella can  Tcooso:  its  depth— but  I  must  reserve  that  part  of  the 
secret  until  tins  benefit  to  British  humanity  shall  havel)ccn  duly 
made  by  Messrs.  Bengough  Brothers,  and  patented  by  myself 
Tho  dignitaries  of  the  mail-coach,  acting  upon  the  principle 
first  come  first  served, '  at  first  decided,  mangrc  all  our  attempts 
at  moral  suasion,"  to  divide  the  partv  by  the  interval  of  a  week. 
1  resently  reflecting,  I  presume,  upon  the  unadvisability  of  loavina 
at  largo  five  gentlemen,  who,  being  reallv  in  no  particular  hurry 
.might  purchase  a  private  conveyance  and  start  leisurely  west- 
wan  ,  thoy  were  favored  with  a  revelation  of  "  'cutoness "  On 
the  day  before  departure,  as,  congregated  in  tho  Planter's  House 


f  II 


12 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ClIAP.  1. 


ii 


Hotel,  we  were  lamenting  over  our  "morning  glory,"  the  neces- 
sity of  parting — in  the  prairie  the  more  the  merrier,  and  the  fewer 
the  worse  cheer — a  youth  from  the  office  was  introduced  to  tell 
Hope-like,  a  flattering  tale  and  a  tremendous  falsehood.     This 
'.  juvenile  delinquent  stated  with  imblushing  front,  over  the  hos- 
pitable cocktail,  that  three  coaches  instead  of  one  had  been  newly 
and  urgently  applied  for  by  the  road-agent  at  Great  Salt  Lake 
City,  and  therefore  that  we  could  not  only  all  travel  together  but 
also  all  travel  with  ihc  greatest  comfort.    We  exulted.     But  on 
the  morrow  only  two  conveyances  appeared,  and  not  long  after- 
ward the  two  dwindled  off  to  one.     "  The  Prairie  Traveler"  doles 
out  wisdom  in  these  words :  "  Information  concerning  the  route 
coming  from  strangers  living  or  owning  property  near  them,  from 
agents  of  steam-boats  and  railways,  or  from  other  persons  con- 
nected with  transportation  companies" — how  carefully  he  piles 
up  the  heap  of  sorites— "  should  be  received  with  great  caution 
and  never  without  corroboratory  evidence  from  disinterested 
.sources."    The  main  difficulty  is  to  find  the  latter— to  catch  your 
hare — to  know  whom  to  believe. 
I  now  proceed  to  my  Diary. 

THE  START. 

t         „       .     ,  n    A  Tir  ,.  Tuesday,  7th  August,  18G0. 

Precisely  at  8  A.M.  appeared  m  front  of  the  Patee  House— the 
Fjfth  Avenue  Hotel  of  St.  Jo— the  vehicle  destined  to  be  our 
home  for  the  next  three  weeks.     We  scrutinized  it  curiously 

The  mail  is  carried  by  a  "  Concord  coach,"  a  spring  wagon 
companng  advantageously  with  the  horrible  vans  which  once  dis- 
located the  jomts  of  men  on  the  Suez  route.    The  body  is  shaped 
somewhat  like  an  PJngli^h  tax-cart  considerably  magnified.    It  is 
built  to  combine  safety,  strength,  and  lightness,  without  the  slight- 
est regard  to  appearances.     The  material  is  well-seasoned  white 
oak— the  AVestcrn  regions,  and  especially  Utah,  are  notoriously 
deficient  in  hard  woods— and  the  manulacturers  are  the  well- 
known  coachwrights,  Messrs.  Abbott,  of  Concord,  New  Hamp- 
shire ;  the  color  is  sometimes  green,  more  usually  red,  causing  the 
antelopes  to  stand  and  stretch  their  large  eyes  whenever  the  ve- 
hicle comes  in  sight.     The  wheels  arc  five  to  six  feet  apart,  afibrd- 
ing  security  against  capsising,  with  little  "gather"  and  less  "  dish  •" 
the  larger  have  fourteen  spokes  and  seven  fellies;  the  smaller 
twelve  and  six.     The  tires  are  of  unusual  tliickness,  and  polished 
like  steel  by  the  hard  dry  ground ;  and  the  hubs  or  naves  and  the 
metal  nave-bands  are  in  massive  proportions.     The  latter  not  un- 
frequently  fall  off  as  the  wood  shrinks,  unless  the  wheel  is  allowed 
to  stand  in  water;  attention  must  be  paid  to  resetting  them,  or  in 
the  frequent  and  heavy  "sidlins"  the  snokcs  may  snap  ofl'  all 
round  like  pi[)o-st(;ms.     The  wagon-bed  is  supported   by  iron 
bands  or  perpendiculars  abutting  u])ou  wooden  rockers,  which 


Chap.  I. 


MAIL-COACH.— MULES. 


18 


lersons  con- 


rest  on  stron'g  leather  thorouglibraces :  these  are  found  to  break 
the  jolt  better  than  the  best  steel  springs,  which,  moreover,  when 
injured,  can  not  readily  be  repaired.    The  whole  bed  is  covered 
with  stout  osnaburg  supported  by  stiff  bars  of  white  oak ;  there  is 
a  sun-shade  or  hood  in  front,  where  the  driver  sits,  a  curtain  be- 
hind which  can  be  raised  or  lowered  at  discretion,  and  four  flaps 
on  each  side,  either  folded  up  or  fastened  down  with  hooks  and 
eyes.    In  heavj  frost  the  passengers  must  be  half  dead  with  cold, 
but  they  care  little  for  that  if  they  can  go  fast.    The  accommoda- 
tions are  as  follows :  In  front  sits  the  driver,  with  usually  a  con- 
ductor or  passenger  by  his  side ;  a  variety  of  packages,  large  and 
small,  is  stowed  away  under  his  leather  cushion ;  when  the  brake 
niust  be  put  on,  an  operation  often  involving  the  safety  of  the  ve- 
hicle, his  right  foot  is  planted  upon  an  iron  bar  which  presses  by 
a  leverage  upon  the  rear  wheels ;  and  in  hot  weather  a  bucket  for 
watering  the  animals  hangs  over  one  of  the  lamps,  whose  com- 
panion is  usually  found  wanting.    The  inside  has  either  two  or 
three  benches  fronting  to  the  fore  or  placed  vis-d-vis ;  they  are 
movable  and  reversible,  with  leather  cushions  and  hinged  padded 
backs;  unstrapped  and  turned  down,  they  convert  the  vehicle 
into  a  tolerable  bed  for  two  persons  or  two  and  a  half.     Accord- 
ing to  Cocker,  the  mail-bags  should  be  safely  stowed  away  under 
these  seats,  or  if  there  be  not  room  enough,  the  passengers  should 
perch  themselves  upon  the  correspondence ;  the  jolly  driver,  how- 
ever, is  usually  induced  to  cram  the  light  literature  between  the 
wagon-bed  and  the  platform,  or  running-gear  beneath,  and  thus, 
when  ford-waters  wash  the  hubs,  the  letters  are  pretty  certain 
to  endure  ablution.     Behind,  instead  of  dicky,  is  a  kind  of  boot 
where  passengers'  boxes  are  stored  beneath  a  stout  canvas  curtain 
with  leather  sides.    The  comfort  of  travel  depends  upon  packing 
the  wagon ;  if  heavy  in  front  or  rear,  or  if  the  thoroughbraces  bo 
not  properly  "fixed,"  the  bumping  will  bo  likely  to  cause  nasal 
hemorrhage.     The  description  will  apply  to  the  private  ambu- 
lance, or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  West,  "avalanche,"  only  the  latter, 
*^  ™S'\t  be  expected,  is  more  convenient;  it  is  the  drosky  in 
which  the  vast  steppes  of  Central  America  are  crossed  by  the 
government  employes. 

On  this  line  mules  are  preferred  to  horses  as  being  more  cn- 
durmg.  They  are  all  of  legitimate  race ;  the  breed  between  the 
horse  and  the  she-ass  is  never  heard  of,  and  the  mysterious  iu- 
mard  is  not  believed  to  exist.  In  dry  lands,  where  winter  is  not 
severe— they  inherit  the  sire's  impatience  of  cold— they  are  in- 
valuable  animals ;  in  swampy  ground  this  American  dromedary 
IS  the  meanest  of  beasts,  requiring,  when  stalled,  to  be  hauled  out 
ot  the  mirc  before  it  will  recover  spirit  to  use  its  legs.  For  sure- 
nessol  loot  (du.ing  a  journey  of  more  than  1000  miles,  I  saw  but 
one  fall  and  two  severe  stumbles),  sagacity  in  finding  the  road, 
apprehension  of  danger,  and  general  cleverness,  mules  arc  supe- 


14 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  I. 


m 


M 


rior  to  their  mothers :  their  main  defect  is  an  unhajf^y  obstinacy- 
derived  from  the  other  side  of  the  house.    They  are  great  in  har- 
dihood, never  sick  nor  sorry,  never  groomed  nor  shod,  even  where 
ice  is  on  the  ground ;  they  have  no  grain,  except  five  quarts  per 
diem  when  snow  conceals  the  grass;  and  they  have  no  staWe 
save  the  open  corral.    Moreover,  a  horse  once  broken  down  re- 
quires a  long  rest ;  the  mule,  if  hitched  up  or  ridden  for  short  dis- 
tances, with  frequent  intervals  to  roll  and  repose,  may  still,  though 
"resfcV'  get  over  300  miles  in  tolerable  time.    The  rate  of  travel 
on  an  average  is  five  miles  an  hour ;  six  is  good ;  between  seven 
and  eight  is  the  maximum,  which  sinks  in  hilly  countries  to  three 
or  four.    I  have  made  behind  a  good  pair,  in  a  light  wagon,  forty 
consecutive  miles  at  the  rate  of  nine  per  hour,  and  in  California 
a  mule  is  little  thought  of  if  it  can  not  accomplish  250  miles  in 
forty-eight  hours.    The  price  varies  from  $100  to  $130  per  head 
when  cheap,  rising  to  $150  or  $200,  and  for  fancy  animals  from 
$250  to  $400.     The  value,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Arab,  depends 
upon  size;   "rats,"  or  small  mules,  especially  in  California,  are 
not  esteemed.    The  "span"— the  word  used  in  America  for  beasts 
well  matched — is  of  course  much  more  expensive.     At  each  sta- 
tion on  this  road,  averaging  twenty-five  miles  apart — beyond  the 
forks  of  the  Platte  they^  lengthen  out  by  one  third — are  three 
teams  of  four  animals,  with  two  extra,  making  a  total  of  fourteen, 
besides  two  ponies  for  the  express  riders.    In  the  East  they  work 
beautifully  together,  and  are  rarely  mulish  beyond  a  certain  tick- 
lishness  of  temper,  which  warns  you  not  to  meddle  with  their 
eai-s  when  in  harness,  or  to  attempt  encouraging  them  by  pre- 
ceding them  upon  the  road.     In  the  West,  where  they  run  half 
wild  and  are  lassoed  for  use  once  a  week,  they  are  fearfully  handy 
with  their  heels ;  they  flirt  out  with  the  hind  legs,  they  rear  like 
goats,  breaking  the  harness  and  casting  every  strap  and  buckle 
clean  off  the  body,  and  they  bite  their  replies  to  the  chorus  of 
curses  and  blows :  the  wonder  is  that  more  men  are  not  killed. 
Each  fresh  team  must  be  ringed  half  a  dozen  times  before  it  will 
start  fairly ;  there  is  always  some  excitement  in  change ;  some 
George  or  Harry,  some  Julia  or  Sally  disposed  to  shirk  work  or 
to  play  tricks,  some  Brigham  Young  or  General  Ilarney  —  the 
Trans- Vaal  Republican  calls  his  worst  animal  "  England" — whose 
stubbornness  is  to  be  corrected  by  stone-throwing  or  the  lash. 

But  tlic  wagon  still  stands  at  the  door.  We  ought  to  start  at 
8  30  A.M. ;  we  are  detained  an  hour  while  last  words  are  said, 
and  adieu— a  long  adieu — is  bidden  to  joke  and  julep,  to  ice  and 
idleness.  Our  "plunder"*  is  clapped  on  with  little  ceremony;  a 
hat-case  falls  open — it  was  not  mme,  gentle  reader — collars  and 
other  small  gear  cumber  the  ground,  and  the  owner  addresses  to 
the  clumsy-liandcd  driver  the  universal  G —  d — ,  which  in  these 
lands  changes  from  its  expletive  or  chrysalis  form  to  an  adjec- 
*  In  Cnnada  tliey  call  personal  liiKgngo  butin. 


i 


Chap.  I. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER. 


15 


tival  development.  We  try  to  stow  away  as  mucli  as  possible ; 
the  minor  officials,  with  all  their  little  faults,  are  good  fellows 
civil  and  obliging ;  they  wink  at  non-payment  for  bedding,  stores, 
weapons,  and  they  rather  encourage  than  otherwise  the  multipli- 
cation of  whisky-kegs  and  cigar-boxes.  We  now  drive  through 
the  dusty  roads  of  St.  Jo,  the  observed  of  all  observers,  and  pres- 
ently find  ourselves  in  the  steam  ferry  which  is  to  convey  us 
from  ihe  right  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  Eiver.  The  "  Big 
Muday,"  as  it  is  now  called — the  Yellow  Eiver  of  old  writers — 
venerable  sire  of  snag  and  sawyer,  displays  at  this  point  the  source 
whence  it  has  drawn  for  ages  the  dirty  brown  silt  which  pollutes 
below  their  junction  the  pellucid  waters  of  the  "  Big  Drink."* 
It  runs,  like  the  lower  Indus,  through  deep  walls  of  stiff  clayey 
earth,  and,  like  that  river,  its  supplies,  when  filtered  (they  have 
been  calculated  to  contain  one  eighth  of  solid  matter),  are  sweet 
and  wholesome  as  its  brother  streams.  The  Plata  of  this  region, 
it  is  the  great  sewer  of  the  prairies,  the  main  channel  and  com- 
mon issue  of  the  water-courses  and  ravines  which  have  carried  on 
the  work  of  denudation  and  degradation  for  days  dating  beyond 
the  existence  of  Egypt. 

According  to  Lieutenant  Warren,  who  endorses  the  careful  ex- 
arninations  of  the  parties  under  Governor  Stevens  in  1853,  the 
Missouri  is  a  superior  river  for  navigation  to  any  in  the  country, 
except  the  Mississippi  below  their  junction.  It  has,  however,  se- 
rious obstacles  in  wind  and  frost.  From  the  Yellow  Stone  to  its 
mouth,  the  breadth,  when  full,  varies  from  one  third  to  half  a  mile; 
in  low  water  the  width  shrinks,  and  bars  appear.  Where  tim- 
ber does  not  break  the  force  of  the  winds,  which  are  most  violent 
in  October,  clouds  of  sand  are  seen  for  miles,  forming  banks, 
which,  generally  situated  at  the  edges  of  trees  on  the  islands  and 
•points,  often  so  much  resemble  the  Indian  mounds  in  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley,  that  some  of  them— for  instance,  those  described  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke  at  Bonhomme  Island  —  have  been  figured  as 
the  works  of  the  ancient  Toltecs.  It  would  hardly  be  feasible  to 
correct  the  windage  by  foresting  the  land.  The  bluffs  of  the  Mis- 
souri are  often  clothed  with  vegetation  as  far  as  the  debouchure 
of  the  Platte  River.  Above  that  point  the  timber,  which  is  chief- 
ly cotton-wood,  is  confined  to  ravmes  and  bottom  lands,  varying 
in  width  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  above  Council  Bluffs,  which  is 
almost  continuous  to  the  mouth  of  the  James  River.  Every 
where,  except  between  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Cheyenne  and  the 
Cannon  Ball  rivers,  there  is  a  sufficiency  of  fuel  for  navigation ; 
but,  ascending  above  Council  Bluffs,  the  protection  afibrded  by 
forest  growth  on  the  banks  is  constantly  diminishing.  The  trees 
also  are  injurious;  imbedded  in  the  channel  by  the  "caving-in" 
of  the  banks,  they  form  the  well-known  sawyers,  or  floating  tim- 
bers, and  snags,  trunks  standing  like  clievaux  de  /rise  at  various 

♦  A  "Diiiik"  fg  any  river:  the  Big  Drink  is  tlie  Mississippi. 


16 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


I      1 

;        |# 
iiSS 


r  I 


inclinations,  pointing  down  the  stream.     From  the  mouth  of  the 
James  Eiver  down  to  the  Mississippi,  it  is  a  wonder  how  a  steam- 
er can  run :  she  must  lose  half  her  time  by  laying  to  at  night, 
and  is  often  delayed  for  days,  as  the  wind  prevents  her  passing 
by  bends  filled  with  obstructions.     The  navigation  is  generally 
closed  by  ice  at  Sioux  City  on  the  10th  of  November,  and  at  Fort 
Leavenworth  by  the  1st  of  December.     The  rainy  season  of  the 
spring  and  summer  commences  in  the  latitude  of  Kans^,  Mis- 
souri, Iowa,  and  Southern  Nebraska,  between  the  15th  of  May 
and  the  30th  of  June,  and  continues  about  two  months.     The 
floods  produced  by  the  melting  snows  in  the  mountains  come 
from  the  Platte,  the  Big  Cheyenne,  the  Yellow  Stone,  and  the 
Upper  Missouri,  reaching  the  lower  river  about  the  1st  of  July, 
and  lasting  a  month.    Kivers  like  this,  whose  navigation  depends 
upon  temporary  floods,  are  greatly  inferior  for  ascent  than  foj-  de- 
scent.    The  length  of  the  inundation  much  depends  upon  the 
snow  on  the  mountains:  a  steamer  starting  from  St. Louis  on  the 
first  indication  of  the  rise  would  not  generally  reach  the  Yellow 
Stone  before  low  water  at  the  latter  point,  anci  if  a  miscalculation 
is  made  by  taking  the  temporary  rise  for  the  real  inundation,  the 
boat  must  lay  by  in  the  middle  of  the  river  till  the  water  deepens. 
Some  geographers  have  proposed  to  transfer  to  the  Missouri, 
on  account  of  its  superior  length,  the  honor  of  being  the  real  head 
of  the  Mississippi ;  they  neglect,  however,  to  consider  the  direc- 
tion and  the  course  of  the  stream,  an  element  which  must  enter 
largely  in  determining  the  channels  of  great  rivers.    It  will,  I 
hope,  "be  long  before  this  great  ditch  wins  the  day  from  the  glo- 
rious Father  of  Waters. 

The  reader  will  find  in  Appendix  No.  L  a  detailed  itinerary, 
showing  him  the  distances  between  camping-places,  the  several 
mail  stations  where  mules  are  changed,  the  hours  of  travel,  and* 
the  facilities  for  obtaining  wood  and  water— in  fact,  all  things  re- 
quired for  the  novice,  hunter,  or  emigrant.  In  these  pages  I  shall 
consider  the  route  rather  in  its  pictorial  than  in  its  geographical 
aspects,  and  give  less  of  diary  than  of  dissertation  upon  the  sub- 
jects which  each  da^'s  route  suggested. 

Landing  in  Bleedmg  Kansas— she  still  bleeds*— we  fell  at  once 
into  "Emigration  Road,"  a  great  thoroughfare,  broad  and  well 
worn  as  a  European  turnpike  or  a  Roman  military  route,  and  un- 
doubtedly the  best  and  the  longest  natural  highway  in  the  world. 

♦  And  no  wonder  ! 

"  I  ftdviso  yon,  one  and  all,  to  enter  every  election  district  in  Kansas  and  vote  at 
the  point  of  the  bowic-knifo  and  revolver.  Neither  give  nor  take  quarter,  as  our  ease 
demands  it." 

"  I  fell  yon,  mark  every  scoundrel  among  you  that  is  the  least  tainted  with  Free- 
soihsm  or  Abolitionism,  and  exterminate  him.  Neither  give  nor  take  quarter  from 
them."  ^ 

(Extracts  from  Speeches  of  General  Stringfellow— happy  name !— in  the  Kansas 
Legislature.) 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PRAIRIE. 


17 


For  five  miles  the  line  bisected  a  bottom  formed  by  a  bend  in  the 
river,  with  about  a  mile's  diameter  at  the  neck.  The  scene  was 
of  a  luxuriant  vegetation.  A  deep  tangled  wood— rather  a  thick- 
et or  a  jungle  than  a  forest— of  oaks  and  elms,  hickory,  basswood  * 
and  black  walnut,  poplar  and  hackberry  {Geltis  crassifolia)  box  el- 
der, and  the  common  willow  {Salix  longifolid),  clad  and  festooned 
bound  and  anchored  by  wild  vines,  creepers,  and  huge  Uianas  and 
sheltermg  an  undergrowth  of  white  alder  and  red  sumach  whose 
pyramidal  flowers  were  about  to  fall,  rested  upon  a  basis  of  deep 
black  mire,  strongly  suggestive  of  chills— fever  and  ague.  After 
an  hour  of  burning  sun  and  sickly  damp,  the  effects  of  the  late 
storms,  we  emerged  from  the  waste  of  vegetation,  passed  through 
a  straggling  "neck  o'  the  woods,"  whose  yellow  inmates  remind- 
ed me  of  Mississippian  descriptions  in  the  days  gone  by,  and  after 
^S^?'^^??-  ^°™®  '^^V  ^'°"Sli  ground  we  bade  adieu  to  the  valley 
ol  the  Missouri,  and  emerged  upon  the  region  of  the  Grand  Prai- 
ne,t  which  we  will  pronounce  "perrairey," 

Differing  from  the  card-table  surfaces  of  the  formation  in  Illi- 
nois and  the  lands  east  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Western  prairies 
are  rarely  flat  ground.     Their  elevation  above  sea-level  varies 
from  1000  to  2500  feet,  and  the  plateau's  aspect  impresses  the  eye 
with  an  exaggerated  idea  of  elevation,  there  being  no  object  of 
comparison— mountain,  hill,  or  sometimes  even  a  tree— to  give  a 
juster  measure.    Another  peculiarity  of  the  prairie  is,  in  places 
its  seeming  honzontality,  whereas  it  is  never  level:  on  an  open 
plain,  apparently  flat  as  a  man's  palm,  you  cross  a  long  ground- 
swell  which  was  not  perceptible  before,  and  on  its  farther  incline 
you  come  upon  a  chasm  wide  and  deep  enough  to  contain  a  set- 
tlement.    The  aspect  was  by  no  means  unprepossessing.     Over 
the  rolling  surface,  which,  however,  rarely  breaks  into  hill  and 
ctale,  lay  a  tapestry  of  thick  grass  already  turning  to  a  ruddy  yel- 
low under  the  influence  of  approaching  autumn.    The  uniformity 
was  relieved  by  streaks  of  livelier  green  in  the  rich  soils  of  the 
slopes,  hollows  and  ravines,  where  the  water  gravitates,  and,  in 
the  deeper    intervales"  and  bottom  lands  on  the  banks  of  streams 
and  courses,  by  the  graceful  undulations  and  the  waving  lines  of 

nl.il in  nf'?i,.  ,  i'  .  ,  u '^'^  ^"""S  "«'^'l  fur  mnts  and  cordage.  From  tlie  nli- 
abil  y  ot  ho  bark  and  wood,  the  name  of  the  tree  is  made  svnonvmous  m'th  <'douc 
face'  ,n  the  following  extract  from  one  of  Mr.  Brigham  Young'sTemons  '  ''1  sn 
as  the  Lord  hves,  we  are  bound  to  become  a  sovereign  state  "n  the  Sn  'or  an  ?n' 
dependent  nation  by  ourselves ;  and  let  them  drive  uh  from  this  Ice  if  thev  can- 
they  can  not  do  it.  I  do  not  tlirow  this  out  as  a  banter.  Yo,  cS.Tes  and  hicko^ 
and  ia.,.W  Mormons,  can  write  it  down,  if  you  please;  but  wS  t  «;  I  st^ak  it '" 
T  0  aiiove  has  been  extracted  from  a  ''Dictionary  of  AiAericanCms'-bvTohfnL 
S^SSTsi^^?"-  -''  ^°-'  ^«-)'  '^  «'ossa.,:Sr 'anKSrtt 

lyilJwesrwan/ofthe'dmllr"f  ""'■''•    1^'^  "''P'^  ''  ^''"''^""y  ^^  ^l.e  bare  lands 

B 


18 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  I. 


mottes  or  prairie  islands,  thick  clumps  and  patches  simulating  or- 
chards by  the  side  of  cultivated  fields.  The  silvery  cirri  and  cu- 
muli of  the  upper  air  flecked  the  surface  of  earth  with  spots  of 
dark  cool  shade,  surrounded  by  a  blaze  of  sunshine,  and  by  their 
motion,  as  they  trooped  and  chased  one  another,  gave  a  peculiar 
liveliness  to  the  scene ;  while  here  and  there  a  bit  of  hazy  blue 
distance,  a  swell  of  the  sea-like  land  upon  the  far  horizon,  glad- 
dened the  sight — every  view  is  fair  from  afar.  Nothing,  I  may 
remark,  is  more  monotonous,  except  perhaps  the  African  and  In- 
dian jungle,  than  those  prairie  tracts,  where  the  circle  of  which 
you  are  the  centre  has  but  about  a  mile  of  radius ;  it  is  an  ocean 
m  which  one  loses  sight  of  land.  You  see,  as  it  were,  the  ends  of 
the  earth,  and  look  around  in  vain  for  some  object  upon  which 
the  eye  may  rest :  it  wants  the  sublimity  of  repose  so  suggestive 
in  the  sandy  deserts,  and  the  perpetual  motion  so  pleasing  in  the 
aspect  of  the  sea.  No  animals  appeared  in  sight  where,  thirty 
years  ago,  a  band  of  countless  bisons  dotted  the  plains ;  they  will, 
however,  like  the  wild  aborigines,  their  congeners,  soon  be  follow- 
ed by  bemgs.hfgher  in  the  scale  of  creation.  These  prairies  are 
preparmg  to  become  the  great  grazing-grounds  which  shall  sup- 
ply the  unpopulated  East  with  herds  of  civilized  kine,  and  per- 
laps  with  the  yak  of  Tibet,  the  llama  of  South  America,  and  the 
koodoo  and  other  African  antelopes. 

As  we  sped  onward  we  soon  made  acquaintance  with  a  tradi- 
tionally familiar  feature,  the  "  pitch-holes,'^  or  "  chuck-holes"— the 
ugly  word  is  not  inappropriate— which  render  traveling  over  the 
prairies  at  times  a  sore  task.  They  are  gullies  and  gutters,  not 
unhke  the  Canadian  "cahues"  of  snow  formation:  varying  from 
10  to  50  feet  in  breadth,  they  are  rivulets  in  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer, and— few  of  them  remain  perennial— they  lie  dry  during  the 
rest  of  the  year.  Their  banks  are  slightly  raised,  upon  the  prin- 
ciple, in  parvo,  that  causes  mighty  rivers,  like  the  Po  and  the  In- 
dus, to  run  along  the  crests  of  ridges,  and  usually  there  is  in  the 
sole  a  dry  or  wet  cunette,  steep  as  a  step,  and  not  unfrequently 
stony;  unless  the  break  be  attended  to,.it  threatens  destruction  to 
wheel  and  axle-tree,  to  hound  and  tongue.  The  pitch-hole  is  more 
frequent  where  the  prairies  break  into  low  hills;  the  inclines  along 
which  the  roads  run  then  becoraa  a  net-work  of  these  American 
nullahs. 

_  Passing  through  a  few  wretched  shanties*  called  Troy— last 
insult  to  the  memory  of  hapless  Pergamus-and  Syracuse  (here 
we  are  in  the  third,  or  classic  stage  of  United  States  nomencla- 
ture), we  made,  at  3  P.M.,  Cold  Springs,  the  junction  of  the  Leav- 
enworth route.  Having  taken  the  northern  road  to  avoid  rough 
ground  and  bad  bridges,  we  arrived  about  two  hours  behind  time, 
ihe  aspect  of  things  at  Cold  Springs,  where  we  were  allowed  an 

is,;owrri"brvroSiifirh'  '^"'"  ''^  ^•"^•^'^-^  '''^^'"^  -^ ''°«-'^-->-  ^^ 


Chap.  I. 

simulating  or- 
■  cirri  and  cu- 
with  spots  of 
I  and  by  their 
,ve  a  peculiar 
of  hazy  blue 
borizon,  glad- 
Jthing,  I  may 
rican  and  In- 
rcle  of  which 
it  is  an  ocean 
B,  the  ends  of 
;  upon  which 
so  suggestive 
leasing  in  the 
where,  thirty 
is;  they  will, 
on  be  follow- 
3  prairies  are 
ch  shall  sup- 
ine, and  per- 
inea, and  the 

with  a  tradi- 
:-holes" — the 
ling  over  the 
[  gutters,  not 
'arying  from 
id  early  sum- 
y  during  the 
)on  the  prin- 
I  and  the  In- 
ere  is  in  the 
infrequently 
estruction  to 
■hole  is  more 
iclines  along 
3e  American 

.  Troy — last 
racuse  (here 
s  nomencla- 
of  the  Leav- 
avoid  rough 
Dehind  time. 
;  allowed  an 

log-kennel.    It 


Chap.  I. 


SQUALOR. 


19 


Kea't^rrie^tV^^^^^^^^ 

West."    The^wido^bSy  towhomt\eX^^  7f  "^f 

firstSf  of  auatte?  S  ?  /'''°'  mto  erably  fat.^  It  was  our 
worst.    We  could  not  J^^^^^  "^"fP*  f  *7°  «^ses,  it  was  our 

at  the  same  W  we  thoultl?  IT  ""  ^ -^^  *°  '^'''  ""^ Wes ; 
disabused  us-fo^  flfesSLVrpfr  P™'  *°  ^^^T^^^  ^^W 

far  reclaimeS  as  to  be  SpTnffV  ^^^S^^o^^d  was  m  places  so 
crops  of  corn  (India^f  cornV  hnf  v^  P^'*"  ^"^  '^."^5  ^^^  '^^^'7 
by  the  drought  XcLhTipo^rj?'  ^^^^  "^'^^^  ^'^'^  withered 

charming  face.         ^  ''^'^"'  ^°^  contained  at  least  one 

Kennekuk  derives  its  name  from  a  chief  of  th^  v;n^ 
whose  reservation  we  now  are  Thi<,  frflJo  •  *^,t  j  ""P^"^' '" 
Baron  la  Hontan  (UmZ  Irlf  7  ^l'  '"^  *^^  ^^^^  of  t^e 
Walter  Scott  S  oYhl  lan?ml  ?Tfi^^^  ^?  ""^^^^"^'"  ''  ^ir 
then  lived  on  the  rSp^I  P  '.  ^  P^??^gious  story-teller," 
brink  of  a  liU   al™  ^^^^^^^  ^^  ^^'^  4on  the 

Sakis  (Osaki,  Sawkis  SaSK  n.  q   be  the  Winnebago,  near  the 

(PotawLmies).  t£f±'3Slt^^^^^^ 

berod  700  warriors  and  750  woSr^hey  hS  four  vS°„?  ^ZT"'  '¥  ^'"'^  ""'»■ 
sissippi  and  its  confluents  from  the  Illinois  to  Z  villages  and  hunted  on  the  Mis- 
Plains  that  bordered  on  the  Mssouri  Thev  wpVp  «.  '''  ^'''''\^^  on  the  western 
Potawotomies,  Menomenes  or  Fo  Ics  Avoin^es  ?Iw„  ^'V  ""T^  ^^^  S'°"''.  OsaRes, 
and  were  almost  consolidated  ,4htLCe''w^?hwl,""'^  -a^I'  Missourian  tribes 
ated  the  Illinois,  Cnhokins,  KaskaskLs  and  vJ^J  "^  %t  ^^^^  "'"^'•'>'  extermini 
were  the  Ojibwas'.  They  riiJed  a  conside,ahk^ouant"it;  J''°' •  ^"^^'^  ^"«™'«« 
ons,  and  were  celebrated  for  cunnin,  Fn  t'^irtff  f^I  c'rge'!'''"'  ""'  "''■ 


20 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ClIAP.  I. 


I 


dreaded  foes,  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,*  wbo  are  described  as  stalwart 
and  handsome  bands,  and  they  have  been  accompanied  in  their 
southern  migration  from  the  waters  westward  of  the  Mississippi, 
through  Illinois,  to  their  present  southern  seats  by  other  allies  of 
the  Winnebagoesjt  the  lowas,  Nez  Perces,  Ottoes,  Omahas,  Kan- 
sas, and  Osages.     Like  the  great  nations  of  the  Indian  Territory, 
the  Cherokees,  Creeks,  Choctaws,  and  Chickasaws,  they  form  in- 
termediate social  links  in  the  chain  of  civilization  between  the 
outer  white  settlements  and  the  wild  nomadic  tribes  to  the  west, 
the  .Dakotahs  and  Arapahoes,  the  Snakes  and  Cheyennes.     They 
cultivate  the  soil,  and  rarely  spend  the  winter  in  hunting  buffalo 
upon  the  plains.  _  Their  reservation  is  twelve  miles  by  twenty- 
four  ;  as  usual  with  land  set  apart  for  the  savages,  it  is  well  wa- 
tered and  timbered,  rich  and  fertile ;  it  lies  across  tlie  path  and  in 
the  vicinity  of  civilization ;  consequently,  the  people  are  great- 
ly demoralized.     The  men  are  addicted  to  intoxication,  and  the 
women  to  unchastity;  both  sexes  and  all  ages  arc  inveterate  beg- 
gars, whose  principal  industry  is  horse-stealing.     Those  Scottish 
clans  were  the  most  savage  that  vexed  the  Lowlands ;  it  is  the 
case  here :  the  tribes  nearest  the  settlors  are  best  described  by 

Colonel  B 's  phrase,  "  great  liars  and  dirty  dogs."    They  have 

well-nigh  cast  off  the  Indian  attire,  and  rejoice  in  the  splendors  of 
boiled  and  ruffled  shirts,  after  the  fashion  of  the  whites.  Accord- 
ing to  our  host,  a  stalwart  son  of  that  soil  which  for  generations 
has  sent  out  her  best  blood  westward,  Kain-tuk-cc,  the  Land  of 
the  Cane,  the  Kickapoos  numljcr  about  300  souls,  of  whom  one 
fifth  are  braves.  He  quoted  a  specimen  of  their  facetiousness : 
when  they  first  saw  a  crinoline,  they  pointed  to  the  wearer  and 
cried,  "  There  walks  a  wigwam."  Our  "  vertugardin"  of  the  19th 
century  baa  run  the  gauntlet  of  the  world's  jests,  from  the  refined 

•  From  the  snmo  soiirco  wo  leiirn  that  tho  Ottngnmics,  rnlled  bv  tho  French  Lcs 
Kcnnrds,  niimhpred  400  wnrriors  iiiul  500  women  :  tliov  had  throo'villaces  near  tho 
influence  of  tho  Turkey  Itiver  with  tho  MisHissi|.|.i, •hunted  on  hoth  sides  of  tho 
MiHsissipi.!  troni  the  Iowa  stream  below  tho  Prairie  du  Chien  to  u  river  of  timt  nnmo 
above  the  sisme  vdlaRe,  and  annually  fiuld  many  hundred  bushels  of  mai/.e      Con- 

d;  7  'f ,'."  '?'"'  f'"  "'<""■«  ,l"-''-^'-'V'l  "'«  l'"^"«.  nnJ  <"•«'  tlToe  people,  sinec'u^ 
first  treaty  of  the  two  former  with  the  United  States,  ehumed  the  land  Von  tho  en- 
ranro  of  tho  .f«nlii.,ne  en  tho  western  side  of  tho  Mississippi,  up  the  latter  Z-  o 
ho  Iowa  above  the  'rmrio  d«  (^hien,  nnd  weslwnr.l  to  the  Missouri.  In  18(7;  ,he v 
had  eeded  thejr  h.n.ls  lying  .outh  of  the  Mississippi  to  tho  United  States,  reserviuL' 
to  them.selves,  however,  the  privileRes  of  hunting  and  resi.linR  on  them. 
4-n  «.„r       '"   r?n,?'  '^^''""'I'*'^'«( ""••'''•  water),  or  OehauKras  numbered,  in  1807. 

wiLn  fmr  dZ  T"  ""y  =  Z'"^"'  I"-">'i|"i'v  ouabl,.  1  the  tribe  to  musJer  in  foreo 
wi  Inn  four  days.  |  hcv-  then  hi.nte.l  on  tho  Itoek  Uivcr,  nnd  the  eastern  sid.  of  the 
M  sMssipp,,  fro,,.  l{„,k  Hiver  to  the  Prairie  du  (^hien,  o,',  Lake  Mi.hiKan.  cm  wX 
"  :,;'  i:'  '"  "'°  '•'.'""";''•''  ''■'^^^••"  '"'•<«■''  MirhiKHU.  Huron,  and  S„,«.ri;,r.  lieu 
M,n  .1  'i''  "  ''"'"""■';''■  '-••""  "  •'•'"'"i""  «n,onK  ihen.selves,  and  heir  sm-nkinc 
he  same  Inn^ruaRe  .,«  the  ()ti.K-s  oMhe  IMntIo  Hiver."  that  Ihev  are  a  tribo  «!, ,  S 
1..0  years  More  his  iime  had  fled  fnm.  the  oppr,.ssi,m  of  tlie  Mcxiean  Simniard" 
a,';i  t'Lir        ""      '""  """'■    '''"''•■ ''""  "''  ''""  '"'""«"'«h<.i  for  feS; 


impel 

India 

Be; 

Creeli 

and  ii 

arm  o 

rivers 

are  "e 

anasto 

reach 

ular  G 

clothec 

next  o 

provid( 

ford,  ro 

by  mer 

distend 

died. 

house  a 

nimbus, 

with  a  s 

prudent 

their  ca: 

west  wl 

closer,  a 

around, 

rain  beg 

however 

we  rode 

dieted  a 

fulfilled. 

wind  set 

gales,"  wj 

the  mont: 

Arrivii 

ber  huls  i 

can  elm,  1 

an  hourfu 

Resnmi 
WO'  roaehci 
ehaw"  Crr 
the  Mip.'sor 
sas.  It  is 
that  early 
surfiK'c  Inv 
"liiclilan.'l, 
cd,  wo  dro' 


Chap.  I. 


"CRIK." 


m 


rivers  of  Europe^ccoXf  S  tT""  f  T?  ^^*^^'  ^  "vulet;  the 
are  "criks."    On  oS'S         '  ^^^^lo-American  of  the  West 

anastomose  wUh^orSouXin^o^T.^^ 

reaeh  the  sea  ^viUhe  Kouri  \n,W  ^Ar^"^'^^^^  ^^'''^  «"d  they 
u]ar  Grasshopper  wns     rv  o    i    /  ?°  Mississippi.     This  partic 
clothed  the  banks  a^Sslol  ^"^  "^T^  "P  *°  the'^ankles;  timber 
next  obstacle  was  t  e  Wahu^Cro  T'^rT ^^^^^  '^'  «-^^-    0"' 
provided  with  a  eordurov  h?  i      'I''  "^^'^^^  ^^'^  fo'^^^d,  however 
ford,  rolling  downS;irel^^^^^^^  ''  was  a  dangeiS 

W  means  of  the  ''bou^''  o; Tn.  i  i  "^  "?"?^' ^"^ 
distended  like  a  leather  tnb I, •?r''^^/,  ^^"^  ^'"^^^  ««wed  together 
died.  At  this  point  the  oum  V  lsu7  't'  "^f  P°^^^  ^^  P 
l^ouse  appears  after  cve?y  mi  e  ^  l"2f w^i  well  populated;  a 
mmbus,  rising  gbost-likc*from  the  S  ^Y""^^  ^'''^'  ''  ^^"^6 
with  a  spectacle  of  those  x,crUn.^  i^orthern  horizon,  furnished  us 

prudent  lay  aside  thS^UXr.S^re^T™^  ""^T^  "^^^  ^^« 
their  cartridges.  Gusts  of  rnw  /  i  "^^^^"^^a^rass  themselves  of 
west  whizzed  overhead  t l.nnJ'  ^^'''  T^  ^^°^^"t  ^'^d  from  the 
closer  and  vivid  ligSing"  ^,^0^  t  'fj^'^^^^  closer  a^^' 
around,  made  eartli  and  ah-  01  e  L  r  f  >^'«  "^"^^T  depths 
[am  began  to  patter  omi^TusTv  unon  tl  ^''''"^  ^'''-  ^^^^^"  the 
l^owevx^r,  by  swelling,  did  Us  Itv  i  carnages;  the  canvas, 

we  rode  out  the  storm  dry  Tl  oi  lof"?  •"^'  water-tight,  and 
dieted  a  succession  of  sucTontW  *  T  "^'l  '"^  *'^^  weather  pre- 
fuliillcd.  The  thermorSr  SCt  c"  f\"  ^7^^^^^^^  ^^'"^^-^ 
wind  set  in,  blowing  dust  or  111.?  r  -^  •^'  """^'^  ""  «t^'«"f?  "orth 
gales,"  which  are  equal  y  com  Si  b.  %7  V''''''  °^  "^'"'««« 
the  month  of  October    ^It  su  ^f.^^a^Ica,  especially  during 

.    Arriying  about  1  A.M  at  Lo  knar?s  st '^^'^  'i^W'' 
bcr  huls  near  a  creek  well  fe^^^^h  .r  i     %^*"^"'  "^  ^^^  ^«ff  ""d  tim- 
can  elm,  hickory  and  bine  -  J  ,!         }'  '"^"'^'^  "'^^^  ""^^  Ameri- 
an  hourful  of  slc^ep  "'  ""^  ^^""^^  ^^^«  «"d  snatc  hed 


1  ^1 


I: 

r  1, 


22 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  I. 


:| 


shanties,  mostly  garnished  with  tall  square  lumber  fronts,  inef- 
lectualJj,  especially  when  the  houses  stand  one  by  one,  masking 
the  diminutiveness  of  the  buildings  behind  them.     The  land 
probably  m  prospect  of  a  Pacific  Kailroad,  fetched  the  exa^ser- 

shb  ?™Y  ^^  ^°^^'  ^^^  ^^'^^^'^^  ^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  "  ^^"^  ^"^^  ^'^ 

Eefreshed  by  breakfast  and  the  intoxicating  air,  brisk  as  a  bot- 
tle ot  veuve  Glicquot— it  is  this  that  gives  one  the  "prairie  fever" 
—we  bade  glad  adieu  to  Seneca,  and  prepared  for  another  long 
stretch  of  twenty-four  hours.     That  day's  chief  study  was  of  wag- 
ons, those  sh^ps  of  the  great  American  Sahara  which,  gathering  in 
tleets  at  certain  seasons,  conduct  the  traffic  between  the  eastern 
and  the  western  shores  of  a  waste  which  is  every  where  like  a 
sea,  and  which  presently  will  become  salt.     The  white-topped 
wain— banished  by  railways  from  Pennsylvania,  where,  drawn  bv 
the  "Conestoga  horse,"  it  once  formed  a  marked  feature  in  the 
landscape— has  found  a  home  in  the  Far  West.     They  are  not 
unpicturesque  from  afar,  these  long-winding  trains,  in  early  morn- 
ing like  lines  of  white  cranes  trooping  slowly  over  the  prairie  or 
in  more  niysterious  evening  rcsemoling  dim  sails  crossing  a  roll- 
ing sea.     Ihe  vehicles  are  more  simple  than  our  Cape  wagons- 
huge  beds  like  punts  mounted  on  solid  wheels,  with  logs  for 
brakes,  and  contrasting  strongly  with  the  emerald  plain,  white 
tilts  o  twilled  cotton  or  osnaburg,  supported  by  substantial  oak- 
en or  hickory  bows.     The  wain  is  literally  a  "  prairie  ship :"  its 
body  IS  often  used  as  a  ferry,  and  when  hides  are  unprocurable 
the  covering  IS  thus  converted  into  a  "bull  boat."     Two  stakes 
driven  into  the  ground,  to  mark  the  length,  arc  connected  by  a 
longitudinal  keel  and  ribs  of  willow  rocTs;  cross-sticks  arc  tied 
with  thongs  to  prevent  "caving  in,"  and  the  canvas  is  strained 
over  the  frame-work.     In  this  i)ari  of  the  country  the  wagon  is 
unnecessarily  heavv;  made  to  carry  4000  lbs.,  it  rarely  ctarrics 
auuu:  westward  1  have  seen  many  a  load  of  8i  tons  of  2000  lbs 
each,  and  have  heard  of  even  C  tons.     The  wheels  are  of  north- 
ern white  oak,  well  seasoned  under  i)ain  of  perpetual  rcnairs  tlm 
best  material,  "  bow-dark"  Osage  oringe-wocfd  (^.^J^^lwir  j£ 
lura  aaranfinca),  which  shrinks  but  little,  being  rarolv  procurable 
about  Concord  and  Troy  the  great  centres  of  w^'ngon  ^aSacturc 

or  these  will  bo  brok-n  by  the  heavy  jolts;  and  the  porch  is  oft 
on  made  movable,  so  that  after  accidents  a  temporaryCtyance 
can  bo  made,  out  of  the  ddbris.  A  long  covered  woode.f  box 
hangs  behind:  on  tlio  road  it  carries  fuel;  at  the  halt  it  Vo  es 
a  trough,  being  preferre<l  t,.  nose-bags,  which  prevent  the  anTS 
breathing  comlortably;  and  in  the  Tiut,  where  every  pi^^rU  "ho 
wagon  IS  utilized,  it  acts  as  u  chest  for  valuabl-s^  A  bucS 
swings  beneath  the  vehicle,  an<l  it  is  generally  provided  wi  ha, 
extra  chain  for  "  coraling."     The  teams  vary  L^.umber  f7om  I 


an 
six 


i't 


Chap.  I. 


THE  "RIPPER." 


28 


to  thirteen  yoke;  they  are  usually  oxen,  an  "Old  Country"  nrei- 
udice  operating  against  the  use  of  cows.*  The  yoke  of  ninp  or 
other  light  wood,  is,  as  eyery  where  in  the  StatesfsiSpfe  S  ef 
fectiye,  presenting  a  curious  contrast  to  the  uneasy  an(f  uncertain 
contnyances  which  still  preyail  in  the  antiquated  (::!ampagnrand 
other  classic  parts  of  Europe.  A  heayy  cross-piece,  oR  cot 
ton-wood  IS  beyeled  out  in  two  places,  and  sometimes  lined  wTth 

nf  W  ^'-^t  ^'  *^'  ^•"™"^'^'  °^^^«'  ^^ich  are  held  firmTn  b^ws 
of  bent  hickory  passing  through  the  yoke  and  pinned  aboTe 
The  seyeral  paii^  of  cattle  are^onnect^d  by  strofg  chains  aid 
rings  projecting  from  the  under  part  of  the  /ood-work 


Tint  WESTEBN  TOKI. 


Piki  pJP-"'    °'  ^"''^'''  ^^°  '^  ^^'^"d  to  t^e  gold  regions  of 
Pike  s  Peak  IS  a  queer  specimen  of  humanity.    lie  usually  hafll 

aL°lfkf  t?'  old  Atlantic  cities-in  fact,  ffom  settSd  ZerTca 

ade,  typical  of  his  disposition.  Sowing  the  chile^^^^^^^^ 
stove.p,.e  tile  of  the  tourgeois,  he  affectf  th'c  '  KoS? ''  ^n 
Anglo-American  version  of  the  sombrero,  which  converrfelt  in^o 
every  shape  and  form,  from  the  jaunty  lit'tlc  head  coyS^g  of  The 
modern  sailor  to  the  tall  steeple-crown  of  the  old  pSn  He 
tndTfl  *'^«.t^''^l^o/o".^y.of  kPaul,  and  emulates  St  Amhony 
and  the  American  aborigines  in  the  length  of  his  locks  whS 

un  i  -o?l  '  P^'t  "'^!f  ^'  ^^^^^  ^  fascinating  sausage-l.ke  ^oH  no? 
unl.kc  the  Cockney  "  aggrawator."  If  a  young  hand  he  is  nrob 
ably  in  the  buckskin  mania,  which  may  pasrinto  ho  sinaw 
mama  a  disease  v  hicli  knows  no  cure :  the  symptoms  arc  aZ?h 
or  coat  and  overalls  to  match,  embroidered  if  S  S  anjfin^^hed 
alon|;  the  arms  and  legs  with  fringes  cut  as  long  as  posslblf  while 
a  pair  of  gaudy  moccasins,  resplendent  with  r?d  affX  norce 

"■;  ^'"^^!l  ^'IL^'^'  ^^^*  '^^^''^y^^  ^i"^en  hose.  I  have  hea?d  of 
coats  xyorth  $250,  vesta  $100,  and  pants  $150 :  indid  the^?oL^^^ 
of  buckskin  suits  will  coat  $75,  anil  if  hanl-workcd It  mus  be  re 

"Tn'lTF  Tr'''^'\  ■  ^^'^  «"^«^^«^"'  miner  or  trgamble; 
-in  these  lands  the  word  is  confined  to  the  profession-will  add 
$10  gold  buttons  to  the  attractions  of  his  attiVeTlio  older  hand 
prefers  to  buckskin  a  "  wamba"  or  round-about!  a  rX  rainbow 

lonV'JiTf  i"„'  wi.!JT,nH  t  Y'^T''  "'"/"";«"'"'  '•""MM.  of  on.,  wn^on  (J2  f,. 


rij 


24 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


colored  flannel  over  a  check  cotton  shirt;  his  lower  garments 
garnished  a  tergo  with  leather,  are  turned  into  Hessians  by  bein^ 
thrust  inside  his  cow-hide  Wellingtons ;  and,  when  in  riding  gear' 
he  wraps  below  each  knee  a  fold  of  deer,  antelope,  or  cow  skin' 
with  edges  scalloped  where  they  fall  over  the  feet,  and  gartered 
tightly  against  thorns  and  stirrup  thongs,  thus  effecting  that  grace- 
ful elephantine  bulge  of  the  lower  leg  for  which  "Jack  ashore"  is 
justly  celebrated.     Those  who  suffer  from  sore  eyes  wear  huge 
green  goggles,  which  give  a  crab-like  air  to  the  physiognomy,  and 
those  who  can  not  procure  them  line  the  circumorbital  region  with 
lampblack,  which  is  supposed  to  act  like  the  surma  or  kohl  of 
the  Orient.    A  broad  leather  belt  supports  on  the  right  a  revolv- 
er, generally  Colt's  Navjr  or  medium  size  (when  Indian  fighting 
is  expected,  the  large  gragoon  pistol  is  universally  preferred)  • 
and  on  the  left,  in  a  plain  black  sheath,  or  sometimes  in  the  more 
ornamental  Spanish  scabbard,  is  a  buck-horn  or  ivory-handled 
bowie-knife.    In  the  East  the  driver  partially  conceals  his' tools  • 
he  has  no  such  affectation  in  the  Far  West:  moreover  a  glance 
through  the  wagon-awnmg  shows  guns  and  rifles  stowed  along 
the  side.    When  driving  he  is  armed  with  a  mammoth  fustigator 
a  system  of  plaited  cow-hides  cased  with  smooth  leather;  it  is  a 
knout  or  an  Australian  stock-whip,  which,  managed  with  both 
hands,  makes  the  sturdiest  ox  curve  and  curl  its  back     If  he 
trudges  along  an  ox-team,  he  is  a  grim  and  grimy  man,  who  de- 
lights to  startle  your  animals  with  a  whip-crack,  and  disdains  to 
return  a  salutation :  if  his  charge  bo  a  muleteer's,  you  mav  ex- 
pect more  urbanity ;  ho  is  then  in  the  "  upper-crust"  of  teamsters  • 
he  knows  it,  and  demeans  himself  accordingly.     He  can  do  noth- 
ing without  whisky,  which  ho  loves  to  call  tarantula  juice,  strych- 
nine red-eye,  corn  juice,  Jersey  lightninsr,  Icg-stretclaer,  "tan-le- 
leg,  *and  many  other  hard  and  grotesque  names;  he  chews^'to. 
bacco  like  a  horae;  ho  becomes  heavier  ''on  the  shoulder" or  "o/i 
the  shyoot  "  as,  with  the  course  of  empire,  he  makes  his  way  west- 
warrl;  and  he  frequently  indulges  in  a  "spree,"  which  in  these 
lands  means  four  acta  of  drinking-bout,  with  a  iifth  of  rough-and- 
tumble.    J3riefly,  ho  is  a  post-wagon  driver  exaggerated. 

iiach  train  is  accompanied  by  men  on  horse  or  mule  back- 
oxen  arc  not  ridden  after  Cape  fashion  in  these  lands.f    ^J'hc  e(i  uip- 
ment  of  tho  cavalier  excited  my  curiosity,  especially  the  saddle, 
which  has  been  recommended  by  good  autliorit.es  for  military  use 
Iho  coming  days  of  fiist  warfare,  when  "heavies,"  if  not  wholly 

•  F<.r  instance.,  •' whisky  i.  now  tostod  l.v  tl,o  ciisian<-o  a  man  ran  walli  »(u-v  tast- 
ing it.      riio  now  l>,,uor  ra  l..,l  'TanKlo-U-K'  Is  said  to  1«  nm.!.  .,f  ,!il,„..,l  nl  •<  Im 

Ctll^i^lE.  ""'^  '"'■""•"• ""''  ""•  "p-""  •  •"<»"  «'  «  •l'-'""™  «"f  ^"<)  .vS 

t  ra|.tain  Maroy,  in  qm.tinR  Mr.  AndorsMon's  remarks  on  ox-ridinK  in  So„tl.- 
wostern  Af^o,^  ronmrk,  t hat  "arin«  instead  of  a  Kti.k  p„t  throng  tluarlal 
of  ho  anunal-s  noso  would  .d.viato  tho  dinhnlty  of  n.an»«inK  it."  A  in  h  aSo 
of  the  .anicl,  a  nug  w.mld  soon  bo  torn  out  l,y  in  obstinuto  bea«  •  a  Vt Uk  r osi^tl 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PRAIRIE  SADDLE. 


26 


banished  to  the  limbo  of  things  that  were,  will  be  used  as  mount- 
ed "beef-eaters,    only  for  show,  demand  a  saddle  with  as  little 
weight  as  IS  consistent  with  strength,  and  one  equally  easy  to  the 
horse  and  the  rider.     In  no  branch  of  improvement  except  in 
hat-making  for  the  army,  has  so  little  been  done  as  'in^saddles 
The  Lnghsh  military  or  hunting  implement  still  endures  without 
other  merit  than  facility  to  the  beast,  and,  in  the  man's  case,  facul- 
ty of  fallmg  uninjured  with  his  horse.     Unless  the  rid«r  be  con- 
per-lined  and  iron-limbed,  it  is  little  better  in  long  marches  than 
a  rail  for  riding.    As  far  as  convenience  is  concerned,  an  Arab 
pad  IS  preferable  to  Peat's  best.    But  the  Californian  saddle  can 
not  supply  the  deficiency,  as  will,  I  think,  appear  in  the  course  of 
description.  ■"  •" 

The  native  Indian  saddle  is  probably  the  degenerate  offspring 
of  the  European  pack-saddle:  two  short  forks,  composing  the 
pommel  and  cantle  arc  nailed  or  lashed  to  a  pair  of  narrow  side- 
boards and  the  rude  tree  is  kept  in  shape  by  a  green  skin  or  hide 
allowed  to  shrink  on      It  remarkably  resembles  the  Abyssinian, 
the  Soma],  and  the  Circassian  saddle,  which,  like  the  "dun--out'' 
canoe,  IS  probably  the  primitive  form  instinctively  invented  bv 
mankind.    It  is  the  sire  of  the  civilized  saddle,  which  in  these 
lands  varies  with  every  region.     The  Texan  is  known  by  its  cir- 
cular seat;  a  string i^asscd  round  the  tree  forms  a  ring:  provided 
with  f^aps  after  the  European  style,  it  is  considered  easy  ind  com- 
fortable.    1  he  Cahfornian  is  rather  oval  than  circular ;  borrowed 
and  iniproyed  from  the  Mexican,  it  has  spread  from  the  Pacific  to 
the  Atlantic  slope  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  and  the  hardy  and 
experienced  mountaineer  prefers  it  to  all  others:  it  mucli  resem- 
bles the  Hungarian,  and  in  some  points  recalls  to  mind  the  old 
J^rench  cavalry  deinipique.     It  is  composed  of  a  single  tree  of 
light  strong  wood,  admitting  a  freer  circulation  of  air  to  the  horse's 
spine  — an  immense  advantage  -  and,  being  without  iron,  it  can 
readily  bo  taken  to  pieces,  cleaned  or  mended,  and  refitted      The 


uacK,  nnu  u  is  linislied  off  behind  with  an  "  anchero"  of  the  same 
material  protecting  the  loins.  The  pommel  is  high,  like  tlie  crutch 
o  a  woman  s  saddle,  rendering  imnossiblc,  under  pain  of  barking 
he  knuckles,  that  rule  of  good  riding  which  directs  the  cavalie? 
to  keep  his  hands  low.  It  prevents  the  inexperienced  horseman 
being  thrown  forward,  and  enables  him  to  "hold  on"  when  like- 
Z  ll  I  '^!«"^«»"t':d ;  in  tlu,  case  of  a  good  rider,  its  only  use  is 
to  attach  tlie  lariat,  riafa,  or  lasso.  The  great  merit  of  this  "  uni- 
corn saddle  13  Its  girthing:  with  the  English  system,  the  strain 
of  a  wild  bull  or  of  a  mustang  "  bucker"  would  Ln  dislodge  the 
rianig  g.>ur.  jio  'mncho  is  an  clastic  liorschair  cinglo,  five  to 
SIX  inches  wide  connected  with  "lariat  straps,"  strong  thongs 
passmg  round  the  pommel  and  cantic;  it  is  girtlicd  well  back 


26 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS, 


Chap.  I. 


\'. 


from  the  horse's  shoulder,  and  can  be  drawn  till  the  animal  suffers 
pain :  instead  of  buckle,  the  long  terminating  strap  is  hitched 
two  or  three  times  through  an  iron  ring.    The  whole  saddle  is 
covered  with  a  machila,  here  usually  pronounced  macheer,  two 
pieces  of  thick  leather  handsomely  and  fancifully  worked  or 
stamped,  joined  by  a  running  thong  in  the  centre,  and  open  to 
admit  the  pommel  and  cantle.     If  too  long,  it  draws  in  the  stir- 
rup-leathers, and  cramps  the  ankles  of  any  but  a  bowlegged  man. 
The  machila  is  sometimes  garnished  with  pockets,  always  with 
straps  behind  to  secure  a  valise,  and  a  cloak  can  be  fastened  over 
the  pommc],  giving  purchase  and  protection  to  the  knees.    The 
rider  sits  erect,  with  the  legs  in  a  continuation  of  the  body  line, 
and  the  security  of  the  balance-seat  enables  him  to  use  his  arms 
freely :  the  pose  is  that  of  the  French  schools  in  the  last  century, 
.heels  up  and  toes  down.     The  advantages  of  this  equipment  are 
obvious ;  it  is  easier  to  horse  and  man  probably  than  any  yet  in- 
vented.   On  the  other  hand,  the  quantity  of  leather  renders  it 
expensive :  without  silver  or  other  ornaments,  the  price  would 
vary  from  $25  at  San  Francisco  to  $50  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 
and  the  highly  got-up  rise  to  $250 =£50  for  a  saddle!     If  the 
saddle-cloth  slips  out,  and  this  is  an  accident  which  frequently 
occurs,  the  animal's  back  will  be  galled.     The  stirrup-leathers 
can  not  be  shortened  or  lengthened  without  dismounting,  and 
without  leggins  the  board-like  leather  macheer  soon  makes  the 
molleis  innocent  of  skin.     The  pommel  is  absolutely  dangerous : 
during  my  short  stay  in  the  country  I  heard  of  two  accidents,  one 
fatal,  caused  by  the  rider  being  thrown  forward  on  his  fork.    Fi- 
nally, the  long  seat,  which  is  obligatory,  answers  admirably  with 
the  Californian  pacer  or  canterer,  but  with  the  high-trotting  mili- 
tary horse  ,it  would  inevitably  lead — as  has  been  proved  before 
the  European  stirrup-leather  was  shortened — to  hernias  and  other 
accidents. 

To  the  stirrups  I  have  but  one  serious  objection — they  can  not 
bo  made  to  open  in  case  of  the  horse  falling;  when  inside  the 
stiff  leather  macheer,  they  cramp  the  legs  by  bowing  them  in- 
ward, but  habit  soon  cures  this.  Instead  of  the  light  iron  con- 
trivances which  before  recovered  play  against  the  horse's  side, 
which  freeze  the  feet  in  cold,  and  which  toast  them  in  hot  weath- 
er, this  stirrup  is  sensibly  made  of  wood.  In  the  Eastern  States 
it  is  a  lath  bent  somewhat  in  the  shape  of  the  dragoon  form,  and 
has  too  little  weight ;  the  Californian  article  is  cut  out  of  a  solid 
block  of  wood,  mountain  maliogany  being  the  best,  then  maple, 
and  lastly  the  softer  pine  and  cotton-wood.  In  some  parts  of  tiio 
country  it  is  made  so  narrow  that  only  the  toe  fits  in,  and  then 
the  instep  is  liable  to  be  bruised.  For  riding  through  bush  and 
thorns,  it  is  provided  in  front  witli  zapateros  or  leathern  curtains, 
secured  to  the  straps  above,  and  to  the  wood  on  both  sides :  they 
are  curiously  made,  and  the  size,  like  that  of  the  Turk's  lantern, 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PKAIRIE  SPUR.— BRIDLE. 


27 


I 


denotes  the  owner's  fashionableness ;  dandies  may  be  seen  with 
the  pointed  angles  of  their  stirrup-guards  dangling  almost  to  the 
ground.  The  article  was  borrowed  from  Mexico  —  the  land  of 
character  dresses.  When  riding  through  prickly  chapparal,  the 
leathers  begin  higher  up,  and  protect  the  leg  from  the  knee  down- 
ward. I  would  not  recommend  this  stirrup  for  Hyde  Park  or 
even  Brighton ;  but  in  India  and  other  barbarous  parts  of  'the 
British  empire,  where,  on  a  cold  morning's  march,  men  and  offi- 
cers may  be  seen  with  wisps  of  straw  defending  their  feet  from 
the  iron,  and  on  African  journeys,  where  the  bush  is  more  than 
a  match  for  any  texture  yet  woven,  it  might,  methinks,  be  advan- 
tageously used. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  spurs,  which,  though  cruel  in  ap- 
pearance, are  really  more  merciful  than  ours.  The  rowels  have 
spikes  about  tv/o  inches  long;  in  fact,  are  the  shape  and  size  of  a 
small  starfish ;  but  they  are  never  sharpened,  and  the  tinkle  near 
the  animal  s  sides  serves  to  urge  it  on  without  a  real  application. 
The  two  little  bell-like  pendants  of  metal  on  each  side  of  the  row- 
el-hinge  serve  to  increase  the  rattling,  and  when  a  poor  rider  is 
mounted  upon  a  tricksy  horse,  they  lock  the  rowels,  which  are 
driven  into  the  sincho,  and  thus  afford  another  point  oCappui.  If 
the  rider's  legs  be  long  enough,  the  spurs  can  be  clinched  under 
the  pony's  belly.  Like  the  Mexican,  they  can  be  made  expens- 
ive :  $25  a  pair  would  be  a  common  price 

The  bridle  is  undoubtedly  the  worst  part  of  the  horse's  furni- 
ture. The  bit  is  long,  clumsy,  and  not  less  cruel  than  a  Chifney. 
I  have  seen  the  Arab  ring,  which,  with  sufficient  leverage,  will 
break  a  horse's  jaw,  and  another,  not  unlike  an  East  Indian^inven- 
tion,  with  a  sharp  triangle  to  press  upon  the  animal's  palate,  ap- 
parently for  the  purpose  of  causing  it  to  rear  and  fall  backward. 
It  13  the  offspring  of  the  Mexican  manege,  which  was  derived, 
through  Spain,  from  the  Moors. 

Passing  through  Ash  Point  at  9  30  A.M.,  and  halting  for  wa- 
ter at  Uncle  John's  Grocery,  where  hang-dog  Indians,  squatting, 
standmg,  and  stalking  about,  showed  that  the  forbidden  luxury- 
essence  of  corn— was,  despite  regulations,  not  unprocurable  there, 
we  spanned  the  prairie  to  Guittard's  Station.  This  is  a  clump  of 
board  houses  on  the  far  side  of  a  shady,  well-wooded  creek— the 
Vermilion,  a  tributary  of  the  Big  Blue  River,  so  called  from  its  red 
sandstone  bottom,  dotted  with  granitic  and  porphyritic  boulders. 

Our  conductor  bad  sprained  his  ankle,  and  the  driver  being  in 
nlain  English  drunk,  had  dashed  like  a  Phaeton  over  the  "chuck- 
holes;  we  willingly,  therefore,  halted  at  11  30  A.M.  for  dinner. 
Ihe  host  was  a  young  Alsatian,  who,  with  liis  mother  and  sister, 
had  emigrated  under  the  excitement  of  Californian  fever,  and  had 
been  stopped,  by  want  of  means,  half  way.  The  improvement 
upon  the  native  was  palpable:  the  house  and  kitchen  were  clean, 
the  fences  neat;  the  ham  and  eggs,  the  hot  rolls  and  coffije,  were 


\      \ 


5J 

I 


28 


THE  Cirsr  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ClIAl>.  I. 


fresh  and  good,  and,  although  drought  had  killed  the  salad  we 
had  abundance  of  peaches  and  cream,  an  offering  of  French  to 
American  taste  which,  in  its  simplicity,  luxuriates  in  the  curious 
mixture  of  lacteal  with  hydrocyanic  acid. 

At  Guittard's  I  saw,  for  the  first  time,  the  Pony  Express  rider 
arrive.     In  March,  1860,  "  the  great  dream  of  news  transmitted 
from  New  York  to  San  Francisco  (niore  strictly  speaking  from  St. 
Joseph  to  Placerville,  California)  in  eight  days  was  tested."    It 
appeared,  in  fact,  under  the  form  of  an  advertisement  in  the  St. 
Louis  "Eepublican,"*and  threw  at  once  into  the  sliade  the  great 
Butteriield  Mail,  whose  expedition  had  been  the  theme  of  uni- 
versal praise.    Very  meritoriously  has  the  contract  been  fulfilled. 
At  the  moment  of  writing  (Nov.,  1860),  the  distance  between 
New  York  and  San  Francisco  has  been  farther  reduced  by  the 
advance  of  the  electric  telegraph — it  proceeds  at  the  rate  of  six 
miles  a  day— to  Fort  Kearney  from  the  Mississippi  and  to  Fort 
Churchill  from  the  Pacific  side.     The  merchant  thus  receives  his 
advices  in  six  days.     The  contract  of  the  government  with  Messrs 
Eussell,  Majors,  and  Co.,  to  run  the  mail  from  St.  Joseph  to  Great 
Salt  Lake  City,  expired  the  30th  of  November,  and  it  was  pro- 
posed to  continue  it  only  from  Julesburg  on  the  crossing  of  the 
South  Platte,  480  miles  west  of  St.  Joseph.     Mr.  Eussell,  however 
objected,  and  so  did  the  Western  States  generally,  to  abbreviating 
the  mail-service  as  contemplated  by  the  Post-office  Department 
His  spirit  and  energy  met  with  supporters  whose  interest  it  was 
not  to  fall  back  on  the  times  when  a  communication  between  New 

*  The  following  is  flie  first  advertisement : 

'•  To  San  Francisco  in  eight  days,  by  the  Central  Overland  California  and  Pike's  Peak 

Express  Company. 
"The  first  coaricr  of  the  'Pony  Express'  will  leave  tlie  Missouri  River  on  Tucsdav 
April  the  ad,  at  —  o'clock  P.M.,  and  will  run  regularly  weekly  hereafter,  carryinE 
a  letter  mad  only.     1  he  point  on  the  Missouri  Kiver  will  lie  in  telegraphic  commu- 
nication with  the  East,  and  will  be  announced  in  duo  time. 

•'Telegraphic  messages  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada  in  con- 
nection with  the  point  of  departure,  will  be  received  up  to  5  o'clock  P.M.  c>f  the  dav 
of  leaving,  and  transmitted  over  the  Placerville  and  St.  Joseph  Telecraph-wirc  to 
San  irancisco  and  intermediate  points  by  the  connecting  Express  in  eight  days 
1  he  letter  mail  will  be  delivered  in  San  Francisco  in  ten  days  from  the  departure  of 
the  Express.  1  he  Express  passes  through  Forts  Kearnev,  Laramie,  and  Uridcer 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  Lump  Floyd,  Carson  City,  tlic  Washoo  Silver  Mines.  Placer! 
villc,_nnd  Sacramento  And  letters  for  ( )rcgon,  Washington  Territory,  British  Co- 
lumbia, the  1  acilic  Mexican  Ports,  liussinn  Possessions,  Sandwich  Islands,  China, 
Japan,  and  India,  will  be  mailed  in  San  Francisco. 

"  Si)cciiil  messengers,  l)eorers  of  letters,  to  connect  with  the  Express  of  the  3d 
April,  will  i-eceive  coninninieations  for  the  Courier  of  that  day  at  No  481  Tenth 
Street,  Washinfjton  City,  up  to  2  4",  P.M.  cm  Friday,  Afarcli  .-iOtli';  and  in  New  York, 
at  the  office  of  J.  H.  Simpson,  Room  No.  8  Continental  Bank  Building,  Nassau  Street. 
up  to  0  r>0  A.M.  of  ,31st  March. 

"  Full  piirticulars  can  bo  obtained  on  application  at  the  above  places,  and  from  the 
Agents  ot  the  Company.  w.  H.  Russei.l,  President. 

"  Lcnvi'tiworth  City,  KiiiiSttn,  Marcli,  1860.  (-oi"!.!!!. 

"r>/7i-,r,  A'tw  York.—,!.  R.  Simjison,  Vice-President;  Samuel  and  Allen,  Agents. 
bt.  Louis,  Mo.  i  II.  J.  SpaulUing,  Agent,  Chicogo." 


m 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PRAIRIE  FIRES. 


29 


nd  Pike's  Peak 


York  and  Califo  :ia  could  not  be  secured  short  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty  days;  and,  aidedby  the  newspapers,  he  obtained  a  renewal 
of  his  contract.  The  riders  are  mostly  youths,  mounted  upon  ac- 
tive and  lithe  Indian  nags.  They  ride  100  miles  at  a  time— about 
eight  per  hour— with  four  changes  of  horses,  and  return  to  their 
stations  the  next  day :  of  their  hardships  and  perils  we  shall  hear 
more  anon.  The  letters  are  carried  in  leathern  bags,  which  are 
thrown  about  carelessly  enough  when  the  saddle  is  changed,  and 
the  average  postage  is  $5=£1  per  sheet. 

Beyond  Guittard's  the  prairies  bore  a  burnt-up  aspect.    Far 
as  the  eye  could  see  the  tintage  was  that  of  the  Arabian  Desert, 
sere  and  tawny  as  a  jackal's  back.    It  was  still,  however,  too  early ; 
October  is  the  month  for  those  prairie  fires  which  have  so  fre- 
quently exercised  the  Western  author's  pen.    Here,  however,  the 
grass  is  too  short  for  the  full  development  of  the  phenomenon, 
and  beyond  the  Little  Blue  Eiver  there  is  hardly  any  risk.     The 
fire  can  easily  be  stopped,  ah  initio,  hj^  blankets,  or  by  simply  roll- 
ing a  barrel ;  the  African  plan  of  beating  down  with  boughs  might 
also  be  used  in  certain  places ;  and  when  the  conflagration  has 
extended,  travelers  can  take  refuge  in  a  little  Zoar  by  burning  the 
vegi'tation  to  windward.    In  Texas  and  IlHnois,  however,  where 
the  grass  is  tall  and  rank,  and  the  roaring  flames  leap  before  the 
wind  with  the  stride  of  maddened  horses,  the  danger  is  imminent, 
and  the  spectacle  must  be  one  of  awful  sublimity. 

In  places  where  the  land  seems  broken  with  bluffs,  like  an 
iron-bound  coast,  the  skeleton  of  the  earth  becomes  visible ;  the 
formation  is  a  friable  sandstone,  overlying  fossiliferous  lime,  which 
is  based  upon  beds  of  shale.  These  undergrowths  show  them- 
selves at  the  edges  of  the  ground-waves  and  in  the  dwarf  preci- 
pices, where  the  soil  has  been  degraded  by  the  action  of  water. 
The  yellow-brown  humus  varies  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  deep  in 
the  most  favored  places,  and  erratic  blocks  of  porphyry  and  va- 
rious granites  encumber  the  dry  water-courses  and  surface  drains. 
In  the  rare  spots  where  water  then  lay,  the  herbage  was  still  green, 
forming  oases  in  the  withering  waste,  and  showing  that  irrigation 
is  Its  prmcinal,  if  not  its  only  want. 

Passing  by  Marysville,  in  old  maps  Palmetto  City,  a  county 
town  which  thrives  by  selling  whisky  to  ruffians  of  all  descrip- 
tions, we  forded  before  sunset  the  "  Big  Blue,"  a  well-known  trib- 
utary of  the  Kansas  Eiver.  It  is  a  pretty  little  stream,  brisk  and 
clear  as  crystal,  about  forty  or  fifty  yards  wide  by  2-50  feet  deep 
at  the  ford.  The  soil  is  sandy  and  solid,  but  the  banks  are  too 
precipitous  to  be  pleasant  when  a  very  drunken  driver  hangs  on 
by  the  lines  of  four  very  weary  mules.  We  then  stretched  once 
more  over  the  "divide"— the  ground,  generally  rough  or  rolling, 
between  the  fork  or  junction  of  two  streams, 'in  fact,  the  Indian 
Doab— separating  the  Big  Blue  from  its  tributary  the  Little  Blue. 
At  G  P.M.  wo  changed  our  fogged  animals  for  fresh,  and  the  land 


30 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


II  r 


of  Kansas  for  Nebraska,  at  Cotton-wood  Creek,  a  bottom  where 
trees  flourished,  where  the  ground  had  been  cleared  for  corn,  and 
where  we  detected  the  prairie  wolf  watching  for  the  poultry.    The 
fur  of  our  first  coyote  was  light  yellow-brown,  with  a  tinge  of  red, 
the  snout  long  and  sharp,  the  tail  bushy  and  hanging,  the  gait 
like  a  dog's,  and  the  manner  expressive  of  extreme  timidity ;  it 
is  a  far  more  cowardly  animal  than  the  larger  white  bufialo-wolf 
and  the  black  wolf  of  the  woods,  which  are  also  far  from  fierce. 
At  Cotton-wood  Station  we  took  "on  board"  two  way-passengers, 
"lady"  and  "gentleman,"  who  were  drafted  into  the  wagon  con- 
taining the  Judiciary.    A  weary  drive  over  a  rough  and  dusty 
road,  through  chill  night  air  and  clouds  of  musquetoes,  which  we 
were  warned  would  accompany  us  to  the  Pacific  slope  of  the 
Eocky  Mountains,  placed  us  about  10  P.M.  at  Rock,  also  called 
Turkey  Creek — surely  a  misnomer ;  no  turkey  ever  haunted  so 
villainous  a  spot  I     Several  passengers  began  to  suffer  from  fever 
and  nausea ;  m  such  travel  the  second  night  is  usually  the  crisis 
after  which  a  man  can  endure  for  an  indefinite  time.    The  "ranch'' 
was  a  nice  place  for  invalids,  especially  for  those  of  the  softer  sex. 
Upon  the  bedded  floor  of  the  foul  "doggery"  lay,  in  a  seemingly 
promiscuous  heap,  men,  women,  children,  lambs,  and  puppies,  all 
fast  in  the  arms  of  Morpheus,  and  many  under  the  influence  of  a 
much  jollier  god.     The  employes,  when  aroused  pretty  roughly, 
blinked  their  eyes  in  the  atmosphere  of  smoke  and  musquetoes, 
and  declared  that  it  had  been  "  merry  in  hall"  that  night— the 
effects  of  which  merriment  had  not  passed  off.     After  half  an 
hour's  dispute  about  who  should  do  the  work,  they  produced  cold 
scraps  of  mutton  and  a  kind  of  bread  which  deserves  a  totally 
distinct  generic  name.     The  strongest  stomachs  of  the  party  made 
tea,  and  found  some  milk  which  was  not  more  than  one  quarter 
flies.     This  succulent  meal  was  followed  by  the  usual  douceur. 
On  this  road,  however  mean  or  wretched  the  fare,  the  station- 
keeper,  who  is  established  by  the  proprietor  of  the  line,  never 
derogates  by  lowering  his  price. 

.    ,.  ,,        -  .,    ■   1  TheValley  of  the  LMe  Blue,  ^ih  August. 

A  little  after  midnight  wc  resumed  our  way,  and  in  the  state 
which  Mohammed  described  when  he  made  his  famous  night 
journey  to  heaven— ia?/?2i  H  naumi  tva  H  yakzdn—VfG  crossed  the 
deep  shingles,  the  shallow  streams,  and  the  heavy  vegetation  of 
the  Little  Sandy,  and  five  miles  beyond  it  we  forded  the  Big 
Sandy.  About  early  dawn  we  found  ourselves  at  another  station, 
better  than  the  last  only  as  the  hour  was  more  propitious.  The 
colony  of  Patlanders  rose  from  their  beds  without  a  dream  of  ab- 
lution, and  clearing  the  while  their  lungs  of  Cork  brogue,  pre- 
pared a  neat  dejeuner  a  la  fourchetic  by  hacking  "fids"  olf  half  a 
sheep  suspended  from  the  ceiling,  and  frying  them  in  melted  tal- 
low.   Had  the  action  occurred  in  Central  Africa,  among  the  Es- 


Chap.  I. 


LITTLE  BLUE  RIVER  VALLEY. 


81 


quimaux,  or  the  Araucanians,  it  would  not  have  excited  my  at- 
tention: mere  _bai;bansm  rarely  disgusts;  it  is  the  unnatural  co- 
habitation of  civilization  with  savagery  that  makes  the  traveler's 
gorge  rise. 

Issuing  from  Big  Sandy  Station  at  6  30  A.M.,  and  resuming 
our  route  over  the  divide  that  still  separated  the  valleys  of  the 
Big  Blue  and  the  Little  Blue,  we  presently  fell  into  the  line  of 
the  latter,  and  were  called  upon  by  the  conductor  to  admire  it 
It  is  pretty,  but  its  beauties  require  the  cosmetic  which  is  said  to 
act  unfailingly  in  the  case  of  fairer  things— the  viewer  should 
have  lately  spent  three  months  at  sea,  out  of  sight  of  rivers  and 
women.    Averaging  two  miles  in  width,  which  shrinks  to  one 
quarter  as  you  ascend,  the  valley  is  hedged  on  both  sides  by  low 
rolling  bluffs  or  terraces,  the  boundaries  of  its  ancient  bed  and 
modern  debordements.    As  the  hills  break  off  near  the  river  they 
show  a  diluvial  formation;  in  places  they  are  washed  into 'a  va- 
riety of  forms,  and  being  white,  they  stand  out  in  bold  relief    In 
other  parts  they  are  sand  mixed  with  soil  enough  to  support  a 
last-years  growth  of  wheat-like  grass,  weed-stubble,  and  dead 
trees,  that  look  like  old  corn-fields  in  new  clearings.     One  could 
not  have  recognized  at  this  season  Colonel  Fremont's  description 
written  ni  the  month  of  June— the  "hills  with  graceful  slopes 
looking  uncommonly  green  and  beautiful."    Along  the  bluffs  the 
road  winds,  crossing  at  times  a  rough  projecting  spur,  or  dipping 
into  some  gully  washed  out  by  the  rains  of  ages.    All  is  barren 
beyond  the  garden-reach  which  runs  along  the  stream ;  there  is 
not  a  tree  to  a  square  mile— in  these  regions  the  tree,  like  the  bird 
m  Arabia  and  the  monkey  in  Africa,  signifies  water— and  animal 
life  seems  well-nigh  extinct.    As  the  land  sinks  toward  the  river 
bottom.  It  becomes  less  barren.     The  wild  sunflower  {Helianilius) 
—It  seldom,  however,  turns  toward  the  sun— now  becomes  abun- 
dant; It  was  sparse  near  the  Missouri;  it  will  wax  even  more 
plentiful  around  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  till  walking  through  the 
beds  becomes  difficult.     In  size  it  greatly  varies  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  soil ;  six  feet  is  perhaps  the  maximum.     It  is  a 
j?rowth  of  some  value.     The  oleaginous  seeds  form  the  principal 
iood  of  half-starved  Indians,  while  the  stalks  supply  them  with  a 
scanty  fuel:  being  of  rapid  growth,  it  has  been  used  in  the  States 
to  arrest  the  flow  of  malaria,  and  it  serves  as  house  and  home  to 
the  rattlesnake.     Conspicuous  by  its  side  is  the  sumach,  whose 
leaf,  mixed  with  kinnikinik,  the  peel  of  the  red  willow,  forms  the 
immemorial  smoking  material  of  the  Wild  Man  of  the  North, 
Equally  remarkable  for  their  strong  odor  are  large  beds  of  wild 
onions ;   they  are  superlatively  wholesome,  but  they  affect  the 
cater  like  those  of  Tibet.     The  predominant  colors  are  pink  and 
yellow,  the  former  a  lupine,  the  latter  a  shrub,  locally  called  the 
rabbit-bush.     The  blue  lupine  also  appears  with  the  white  mal- 
low, the  eccentric  putoria,  and  the  taraxacum  (dandelion),  so  much 


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82 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ClIAP.  I. 


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used  as  salad  in  France  and  in  the  Eastern  States.    This  land  ap- 
pears excellently  adapted  for  the  growth  of  manioc  or  cassava. 
In  the  centre  of  the  bottom  flows  the  brownish  stream,  about 
twenty  yards  wide,  between  two  dense  lines  of  tall  sweet  cotton- 
wood.    The  tree  which  was  fated  to  become  familiar  to  us  during 
our  wanderings  is  a  species  of  poplar  (P.  monilifeixi),  called  by  the 
Americo-Spaniards,  and  by  the  people  of  Texas  and  New  Mexi- 
co, "  Alamo :"  resembling  the  European  aspen,  without  its  silver 
lining,  the  color  of  the  leaf,  in  places,  appears  of  a  dull  burnished 
hue,  ia  others  bright  and  refreshingly  green.     Its  trivial  name  is 
derived,  according  to  some,  from  the  fibrous  quality  of  the  bark, 
which,  as  in  Norway,  is  converted  into  food  for  cattle  and  even 
man;  according  to  others,  from  the  cotton-like  substance  sur- 
rounding the  seeds.     It  is  termed  "sweet"  to  distinguish  it  from 
a  different  tree  with  a  bitter  bark,  also  called  a  cotton-wood  or 
narrow-leaved  cotton-wood  {Populus  anriustifolia),  and  by  the  Ca- 
nadians Hard  aviere.     The  timber  is  soft  and  easily  cut ;  it  is  in 
many  places  the  only  material  for  building  and  burning,  and  the 
recklessness  of  the  squatters  has  already  shortened  the  supply. 

This  valley  is  the  Belgium  of  the  adjoining  tribes,  the  once 
terrible  Pawnees,  who  here  met  their  enemies,  the  Dakotahs  and 
the  Delawares :  it  was  then  a  great  buffalo  ground ;  and  even 
twenty  years  ago  it  was  well  stocked  with  droves  of  wild  horses, 
turkeys,  and  herds  of  antelope,  deer,  and  elk.  The  animals  have 
of  late  migrated  westward,  carrying  off"  with  them  the  "bones  of 
contention."  Some  details  concerning  the  present  condition  of 
these  bands  and  their  neighbors  may  not  be  uninteresting — these 
poor  remnants  of  nations  which  once  kept  the  power  of  North 
America  at  bay,  and  are  now  barely  able  to  struggle  for  exist- 
ence. 

In  1853,  the  government  of  the  United  States,  which  has  ever 
acted  paternally  toward  the  Indians,  treating  witli  them  —  Great 
Britain  did  the  same  with  the  East  Indians — as  though  they  were 
a  civilized  people,  availed  itself  of  the  savages'  desire  to  sell  lands 
encroached  upon  by  the  whites,  and  set  apart  for  a  general  res- 
ervation 181,171  square  miles.  Here,  in  the  Far  West,  were  col- 
lected into  what  was  then  believed  to  be  a  permanent  habitation, 
the  indigenes  of  the  land,  and  the  various  bands  once  lying  cast 
of  the  Mississippi.  This  "  Indian's  home"  was  bounded,  in  1853, 
on  the  north  by  the  Northwestern  Territory  and  Minnesota ;  on 
the  south  by  Texas  and  New  Mexico ;  to  the  east  lay  Iowa,  Mis- 
souri, and  Arkansas ;  and  to  the  west,  Oregon,  Utah,  and  New 
Mexico. 

The  savages'  reservation  was  then  thus  distributed.  The  east- 
ern portion  nearest  the  river  was  stocked  with  tribes  removed  to 
it  from  the  Eastern  States,  namely,  the  lowas,  Sacs  and  Foxes, 
Kickapoos,  Delawares,  Potawotomics,  Wyandottes,  Quapaws,  Scn- 
ecas,  Cherokces,  Seminoles,  Creeks,  Choctaws,  Chickasaws,  Miamis, 


Chap.  I. 


THE  INDIAN  TERRITORY. 


83 

and  Ottawas.  The  wcst_  and  part  of  the  northeast  -  poor  and 
barren  lands-were  retained  by  the  aboriginal  tribes  S^h^ 
Omuhas  or  Mahas  Pawnees,  6ttoes,  Kansas  or  K^s  and 
Osages.  The  central  and  the  remainder  of  the  western  portion- 
wild  countries  abounding  in  buffiilo-were  granted  to  the  Western 
Pawnees,  the  Arickarees,  Arapahoes,  Chlyennes,  Kiowas  Co 
manches,  Utahs,  Grosventres,  and  other  nomads  ' 

It  was  somewhat  a  confusion  of  races.    For  instance,  the  Paw- 
nees form  an  independent  family,  to  which  some  authors  join  the 
Anckaree;  the  Sacs  (Sauk)  a'nd  Foxes,  Winnebagoes,^SLes 
Kaws  Omahas,  Cheyennes,  xMississippi  Dakotahs,  and  Missouri 
Dakotahs,  belong  to  the  Dakotan  family;  the  Choctaws,  CrTell 
andSeminoles  are  Appalachians;  the  Wyandottes,  like' the  W 
quois,areHodesaunians;  and  the' Ottawas,  Delawares,  Shawnees 
Potawotomies,  Peomns,  Mohekuneuks,  KaLkaskias,  Pi'ankeahaws' 
IJSaC^I''''^''''''''  '^"^  ^^-  ^^— -'  -,  like  the'(5iS 

^^^^^^^;:,  f/o?o™  '^' '''  ^-^^ 

Still  the  resistless  tide  of  emigration  Lwept  westward:  the  fed- 
eral governnient  was  as  powerless  to  stem  it  as  was  General  Fitz 
roy  of  New  South  Wales  to  prevent,  in  1852,  his  sSs  flock 
ing  to  the  'gold  diggings."  Respite  all  orders,  recS  whTte 
would  squat  upon,  and  thoughtless'^reds,  bribed  b^  whisky  Tobac 

18o4,  was  passed  the  celebrated  "Kansas-Nebraska  Bill,"  an  ac 
tZTfS^T.'^'  greater  portion  of  the  "Indian  Territory,'"  aM  al 
the  "Northwestern  Territory," into  two  new  territories-Kansas 
north  of  the  37th  parallel,  and  Nebraska,  north  of  the  407h     S 
ml  S\v*^''  bill,  the  celebrated  "Missouri  Compromise"  o 

cry  ought  not  to  be  permittod  i„"any  sKfeSy'       r^U     ^Idt-pSiWt  "'■ 
have  ever  a.med  at  the  ultin^ate  abolition  of  senitud'eW  Sn^Tf  n^it"  cn^^^^^^^^ 


9 


I'M 

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llnll 


ik:'M 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


rights  and  properties  of  the  Indians,  within  their  shrunken  pos- 
sessions, should  bo  respected.  By  degrees  the  Indians  sold  their 
lands  for  whisky,  as  of  old,  and  retired  to  smaller  reservations. 
Of  course,  they  suffered  in  the  bargain  ;  the  savage  ever  parts 
with  his  birthright  for  the  well-known  mess  of  pottage.  The 
Osages,  for  instance,  canceled  $4000,  claimed  by  unscrupulous 
traders,  by  a  cession  of  two  million  acres  of  arable  land.  The 
Potawotomies  fared  even  worse ;  under  the  influence  of  liquor, 
wg  Xiyovai,  their  chiefs  sold  100,000  acres  of  the  best  soil  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri  for  a  mere  song.  The  tribe  was  removed 
to  a  bald  smooth  prairie,  sans  timber  and  consequently  sans  game ; 
many  fled  to  the  extreme  wilds,  and  the  others,  like  the  Acadians 
of  yore,  were  marched,  about  till  they  found  homes  —  many  of 
them  six  feet  by  two  —  in  Fever  Patch,  on  the  Kaw  or  Kansas 
Eiver.  Others  were  more  fortunate.  The  Ottoes,  Omahas,  and 
Kansas  had  permanent  villages  near  the  Missouri  and  its  two  trib- 
utaries, the  Platte  and  the  Kansas.  The  Osages,  formerly  a  large 
nation  in  Arkansas,  after  coding  10,000,000  of  acres  for  a  stipend 
of  $52,000  for  thirty  years,  were  settled  in  a  district  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Neosho  or  Whitewater — the  Grand  River.  They  are 
described  as  the  finest  and  largest  men  of  the  semi-nomad  races, 
with  well-formed  heads  and  symmetrical  figures,  brave,  warlike, 
and  well  disposed  to  the  whites.  Early  in  June,  after  planting 
their  maize,  they  move  in  mounted  bands  to  the  prairies,  fcasi, 
upon  the  buffalo  for  months,  and  bring  home  stores  of  smoked 
and  jorked  meat.  When  the  corn  is  in  milk  they  husk  and  sun- 
dry it;  it  is  then  boiled,  and  is  said  to  be  better  flavored  and 
more  nutritious  than  the  East  Indian  "  butah"  or  the  Ai.ncrican 
hominy.  After  the  harvest  in  October  they  return  to  the  game 
country,  and  then  pass  the  winter  under  huts  or  skin  lodges. 
Their  chief  scourge  is  small-pox :  apparently,  all  the  tribes  carry 
some  cross.  Of  tlic  settled  races  the  ucst  types  are  the  Choctaws 
and  the  Cherokccs ;  the  latter  have  shown  a  degree  of  improv- 

The  contest  about  Missouri  bcRnn  in  I81S,  nnil  rago.A  for  throo  ycnrs,  complicated  by 
a  now  r'oat'ire,  nanii-ly,  Maine  separating  herself  from  MassncliUHCtts,  and  biilaneinj; 
tho  admission  of  Alabama  by  bec(imin(»  n  free  state.  Tbo  Lower  Homo  several 
tinii.'s  voted  to  exclude  t\w  '"i.eculiar  institution"  from  tho  new  state,  and  tho  con- 
ioi-vative  Senate  —  in  which  the  Southern  element  was  ever  ]ircdonituant  —  as  often 
restored  it.  (Jreat  was  tho  war  of  words  among  the  rival  legislators;  at  length, 
after  repented  confeixineen,  Ixith  Senate  and  House  agreed  upon  a  bill  admitting  Mis- 
souri, after  her  (constitution  shoidd  Iki  formed,  free  of  restriction,  but  prohibiting 
slavery  north  of  IJfl'  l!0'.  Missouri  ackiunvledged  iho  boon  by  adopting  a  Constitu- 
tion which  ticnied  th(>  lights  of  citizens  e.cn  to  fn-o  negroes.  She  was  not  finally 
admitt'il  until  tho  10th  of  August,  lK2l,whcn  her  Legislature  had  solemnly  cov- 
enanted (o  guarantee  the  rights  of  eiii/.cnship  to  "tho  citi/ons  of  cither  of  tho  slates." 
Such  is  an  outline  of  the  far-famed  "  Missouri  Compromise.''  The  influence  (  f  the 
Southern  slaveholders  caused  it  to  1k>  repealed,  as  a  slip  of  Texas  han|icned  to  lie 
north  of  the  tirolubitative  latitude,  anil  tho  late  Mr.  S.  A.  l>ouglnN  did  it  to  death  in 
ISril.  Tli(!  Frne-soilers,  of  course,  fought  hard  against  the  "sad  reiM-al,"  and  what 
th<\v  now  fight  niKuit,  lortv  vours  afterward,  is  to  run  i<till  farther  south  ^U•^  original 
lino  of  limitatiiin,     7/iHr  i//<r  idrhryiinr  I 


Chai'.I. 


MISSIONARIES. 


86 


ability  which  may  still  preserve  them  from  destruPtinr, .  +1, 
have  a  form  of  government  churohp^s  thJ^^tJZ  "^^^^fion     they 
read  and  write  English ;  and  GeorS  G,Li  ?  ^"^,T^°ol«  i  tbey 

hke  the  negro  .nvfntor'o?ttv7:,to 

produced  an  alphabet  of  sixty-eight  characterrwb.-rl  •        ''""^i 

and  gold  so  proS  y  cxpendSKn".! "™"''  ''"'P''"  *<=  "™d 
the  Josuits  and  the^UnftS  BrmC  '  'Si,'''? P' ''^•'-*<'»<=  "f 
spread  the  Gospel  bv  aiSn.t    .1      '    ?^'"'  fratemHy  of  Jesus 

vance  of  Moravian  sm  if  mnw  c,„f  i  /^  ' '°  b"'"g  oy.  itie  ad- 
These  civiliza^rsodet  s  1  avo  f  ?:..\'  prophesied,  is  to  come, 
cause  they  will  nqt  minister  lo  fZ'  '"  ^1"^'  appreciated,  be- 
extracts  money  f^^om  the  S^^  enthusiasm  which 

M^,  and  s,m>lar  attempts  to  make  civilization  run  b  fore  she  c 4" 


36 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


pac'e  appear,  it  is  simply  impossible.  It  lias  terrible  obstacles  m 
the  westward  gravitation  of  the  white  race,  which,  after  sweeping 
away  the  aborigines— as  tbe  gray  rat  in  Europe  expelled  the  black 
rat— from  the  east  of  the  Mississippi  in  two  centuries  and  a  halt, 
threatens,  before  a  quarter  of  that  time  sball  have  elapsed,  to  drive 
in  its  advance  toward  the  Pacific  the  few  survivors  of  now  pop- 
ulous tribes,  either  into  the  inhospitable  regions  north  ot  the  4ytb 
parallel,  or  into  the  anarchical  countries  south  of  the  32d.  Aud 
where,  I  may  ask,  in  the  history  of  the  world  do  we  read  of  a  peo- 
ple learning  civilization  from  strangers  instead  of  working  it  out 
for  themselves,  through  its  several  degrees  of  barbarism  leudal- 
ism,  monarchy,  republicanism,  despotism?  Still  it  is  a  noble  proj- 
ect;  mankind  would  not  willinglv  see  it  die. 

The  Pawnees  were  called  by  the  French  and  Canadian  traders 
Les  Loups,  that  animal  being  their  totem,  and  the  sign  of  the  tribe 
beint^  an  imitation  of  the  wolfs  ears,  the  two  fore  fingers  of  the  r.ght 
hand  being  stuck  up  on  the  side  of  the  head.  They  were  in  the  last 
generation  a  large  nation,  containing  many  clans— Minnikajus,  the 
Sans  Arc,  the  Loup  Fork,  and  others.  Their  territory  embraced 
both  sides  of  the  Platte  River,  especially  the  northern  lands ;  and 
they  rendered  these  grounds  terrible  to  the  trapper,  trader,  and 
traveler.  They  were  always  well  mounted.  Old  Mexico  was  then, 
and  partially  is  still,  their  stable,  and  a  small  band  has  driven  off 
horses  by  hundreds.  Of  late  years  they  have  become  powerless. 
The  influenza  acts  as  a  plague  among  them,  killing  off  400  or 
500  in  a  single  season,  and  the  nation  now  numbers  little  more 
than  300  braves,  or  rather  warriors,  the  latter,  in  correct  parlance, 
being  inferior  to  the  former,  as  the  former  are  subservient  to  the 
ehieL  A  treaty  concluded  between  them  and  the  United  States 
in  the  winter  ot'  1857  sent  them  to  a  reserve  on  the  Loup  Fork, 
where  their  villages  were  destroyed  by  the  Sioux.  They  arc 
Ishmaclites,  whose  hand  is  against  every  man.  Thoy  have  at- 
tempted, after  the  fashion  of  declining  tribes,  to  strengthen  them- 
selves by  alliances  with  their  neighbors,  but  have  always  failed 
in  consequence  of  their  propensity  to  plunder  developing  itself 
oven  before  the  powwow  was  concluded.  They  and  the  northern 
Dakotahs  can  never  be  tru.stcd.  Most  Indiim  rnecs,  like  the  Bed- 
ouin Arabs,  will  sV.ow  hospitality  to  the  stranger  who  rides  into 
their  villages,  thougli  no  point  of  lionor  deters  them  from  robbing 
him  after  ho  has  left  the  lodge-shade.  The  Pawnees,  African- 
like,  will  cut  the  throat  of  a  sleeping  guest.  They  are  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  their  ncij?libors  by  the  scalp-lock  i)rotru(ling  from 
a  shaven  head.  After  killing  white  men,  they  have  insulted  the 
(•orpse  in  a  manner  familiar  to  those  who  served  in  the  Affghan 
war.  They  have  given  up  the  practice  of  torturing  prisoners, 
saying  tliat  the  "Great  Spirit," or  rather,  as  the  exjircssion  should 
be  translated,  the  "Great  Father"  no  longer  wills  it.  The  tradi- 
iion  ia,  that  a  low  ycara  ago  a  squaw  of  a  hostile  tribe  was  snatch- 


Chap.  I. 

ed  from  the 

preted  as  a  d 

well-known  s 

roo,  the  son  o 

ern  Indians  j 

Eeid,*  "  The^ 

rous  delicacy 

are  too  treach 

Indians,  their 

are  muscular 

I  have  heard 

by  his  enemi 

miles — makin 

is  ever  at  wai 

do  not  extenc 

tribe  is  the  A: 

attacked  and 

mouth  of  the  < 

in  1825-26,  u 

upon  the  tradi 

A  more  inti 

whose  oldest  i 

Mississippi.    [ 

where  they  toe 

boring  races  ir 

his  followers  fc 

acy  in  a  depr( 

had  been  comj: 

those  days  the 

him  as  a  somet 

spirit  has  revi 

the  Pacific  Oec 

to  the  heart  of 

Fort  Leavenwc 

tory  near  Fort 

Kiver.     They  i 

toms  of  their  ; 

shots  that  a  lio 

and  they  most! 

West,  as  tradei 

tribi'S.     For  \b 

them  in  interm 

and  there  some 

now  dwindled  i 

the  tribe  appei 

preferred  to  all 

would  make  as 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PAWNEES.— THE  DELAWAEES. 


87 


ed  from  the  stake  by  a  white  trader,  and  the  action  was  inter- 
preted as  a  decree  of  heaven.    It  is  probably  a  corruption  of  the 
well-known  story  of  the  rescue  of  the  Itean  woman  by  Petalesha- 
roo,  the  son  of  the  "  Knife  Chief"    Like  the  Southern  and  West- 
ern Indians  generally,  as  is  truly  remarked  by  Captain  Mayne 
Keid,*  "  They  possess  more  of  that  cold  continence  and  chival- 
rous delicacy  than  characterize  the  Eed  Men  of  the  forest."    They 
are  too  treacherous  to  be  used  as  soldiers.    Like  most  pedestrian 
Indians,  their  arms  and  bodies  are  light  and  thin,  and  their  legs 
are  muscular  and  well  developed.     They  are  great  in  endurance. 
I  have  heard  of  a  Pawnee,  who,  when  thoroughly  "stampeded" 
by  his  enemies,  "loped"  from  Fort  Laramie  to  Kearney— 300 
miles— making  the  distance  as  fast  as  the  mail.    This  bad  tribe 
13  ever  at  war  with  their  hereditary  enemies  the  Sioux.    They 
do  not  extend  westward  of  Fort  Kearney.     The  principal  sub- 
tribc  IS  the  Arickaree,  or  liee,  called  Pedani  by  the  Dakotah,  who 
attacked  and  conquered  them.     Their  large  villages,  near  the 
"'^"iL^^o^i'®  Grand  River,  were  destroyed  by  the  expedition  sent 
in  l«J5-26,  under  Colonel  Leavenworth,  to  chastise  the  attack 
upon  the  trading  party  of  General  Ashley. 

A  more  interesting  people  than  the  Pawnee  is  the  Delaware 
whoso  oldest  tradition  derives  him  from  the  region  west  of  the 
Mississippi.    Thence  the  tribe  migrated  to  the  Atlantic  shores 
where  they  took  the  title  of  Lenne  Lenape,  or  men,  and  the  nei^h- 
J3oring  races  in  respect  called  them  "  uncle."     William  Penn  and 
his  followers  found  this  remnant  of  the  great  Algonquin  confeder- 
acy in  a  depressed  state :  subjugated  by  the  Five  Nations,  they 
had  been  compelled  to  take  the  name  of  "  Iroquois  Squaws."    In 
those  days  they  felt  an  awe  of  the  white  man,  and  looked  upon 
him  as  a  something  godlike.     Since  their  return  to  the  West  their 
spirit  has  revived,  their  war-path  has  reached  through  Utah  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  to  Iludsoi/s  Bay  on  the  north,  and  southward 
to  the  heart  of  ^[cxico.     Theirprescnt  abodes  are  principalh'  near 
Fort  Leavenworth  upon  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  Choctaw  terri- 
tory near  Fort  Arbucklo,  upon  the  eastern  Colorado  or  Canadian 
Kiver.     They  arc  familiar  with  the  languages,  manners,  and  cus- 
toms of  their  pale-faced  neighbors ;   they  are  so  feared  as  riHo 
shots  that  a  host  of  enemies  will  fly  from  a  few  of  their  warriors 
and  th(>y  mostly  lead  a  vagrant  life,  the  wandering  Jews  of  the 
West,  as  traders,  liunters,  and  trappers,  among  the  other  Indian 
tribes.     For  ISo  years  the  Slmwnees  have  been  associated  with 
thorn  in  intermarriage,  yet  they  are  declining  in  numbers;  hero 
and  there  some  are  lost,  one  by  one,  in  travel  or  battle;  they  have 
now  dwindled  to  alH)ut  a  hundred  warriors,  and  the  extinction  of 
the  tribe  appears  imminent.     As  hunters  and  gnidoa,  ihry  are 
pn^ferred  to  all  others  by  tho  whites,  and  it  is  believed  that  they 
would  make  na  formidable  partisan  soldiers  as  any  on  this  conti- 
•  Tho  Scnlp-lunitcns  clmf)  xlli. 


i   1 

1  1 

1        : 

1'       ' 

i  i 

1       ■■ 

$8 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I, 


nenfr.  When  the  government  of  the  United  States,  after  the  fash- 
ion of  France  and  England,  begins  to  raise  "Irregular  Native 
*^orps,    the  loss  of  the  Delawares  will  be  regretted. 

Changing  mules  at  Kiowa  about  10  A.M.,  we  pushed  forward 
through  the  sun,  which  presently  was  mitigated  by  heavy  nimbi, 
to  Liberty  Farm,  where  a  station  supplied  us  with  the  eternal 
eggs  and  bacon  of  these  mangeurs  de  lard.    It  is  a  dish  constant 
m  the  great  West,  as  the  omelet  and  pigeon  in  the  vetturini  days 
ot  Italy,  when,  prompted  by  the  instincts  of  self-preservation,  the 
inmates  of  the  dove-cot,  unless  prevented  in  time,  are  said  to  have 
fled  their  homes  at  the  sight  of  Milordo's  traveling  carriage,  not 
to  return  until  the  portent  had  disappeared.    The  Little  Blue  ran 
hard  by,  about  fifty  feet  wide  by  three  or  four  deep,  fringed  with 
emerald-green  oak  groves,  cotton-wood,  and  long-leaved  willow 
Its  waters  supply  catfish,  suckens,  and  a  soft-shelled  turtle,  but  the 
fish  are  full  of  bones,  and  taste,  as  might  be  imagined,  much  like 
mud.    The  country  showed  vestiges  of  animal  life,  the  prairie 
bore  signs  of  hare  and  antelope;  in  the  valley,  coyotes,  wolves 
and  foxes,  attracted  by  the  carcasses  of  cattle,  stared  us  in  the 
face,  and  near  the  stream,  plovers,  jays,  the  bluebird  (sialia),  and 
a  kind  of  starling,  called  the  swamp  or  redwinge^  blackbird  twit- 
tered a  song  of  satisfaction.     We  then  resumed  our  journey  over 
a  desert,  waterless  save  after  rain,  for  twenty-three  miles  •  it  is  the 
divide  between  the  Little  Blue  and  the  Platte  rivers,  a  broken  ta- 
ble-land rising  gradually  toward  the  west,  with,  at  this  season,  a 
barren  soil  of  sand  and  clay.    As  the  evening  approached,  a  smile 
trom  above  lit  up  into  absolute  beauty  the  homely  features  of  the 
world  below.     The  sweet  commune  with  nature  in  her  fairest 
hours  denied  to  the  sons  of  cities— who  must  contemplate  her 
charms  through  a  vista  of  brick  wall,  or  over  a  foreground  of 
chimney-pots— consoled  us  amply  for  all  the  little  hardships  of 
travel.    Strata  upon  strata  of  cloud-banks,  burnished  to  golden 
red  in  tlic  vicinity  of  the  setting  sun,  and  polished  to  dazzlincr  sil- 
very  white  above,  lay  piled  half  way  from  the  horizon  to  tlie  ze- 
nitti,  with  a  distinct  strike  toward  a  vanishing  point  in  the  west 
and  dipping  into  a  gafcway  through  which  the  orb  of  day  slowlv 
retired     Overhead  floated  in  a  soa  of  umber  and  yellow,  pink  and 
green,  heavy  purple  nimbi,  apparently  turned  upsi.le  down-their 
convex  bulges  below,  and  their  horizontal  lines  high  in  the  air- 
while  in  the  cast  black  and  blue  were  so  curiously  blended  that 
the  eye  could  not  distinguish  whether  it  rested  upon  darkoninc 
air  or  upon  a  lowering  thunder-cloud.    Wc  enjoyed  these  beau 

a'."o  P  vf '  ""t"  "°"ln?3^^'  "  ^^^'^^^  there  I '  or  ''  How  pretty  I" 
At  9  I.M.,  reaching  " Thirty-two-milo  Creek," wo  were  pleas- 
antly surprised  to  find  an  utter  absence  of  the  Trishrv  The  stn 
tion-mastcr  was  the  head  of  a  neat-handed  and  thriftyfamily  from 
Vermont;  tho  rooms,  such  as  they  were,  lookcnl  cosy  ancrder 
and  tho  chickens  and  peaches  were  plum])  and  well "  ilxed."    Sol- 


Chap.  I. 

diers  from  I 
from  them  v 
were  confirn 
before  moor 
than  the  losi 
The  amiable 
suers  for  a  "v 
the  cerne  or 
circle  and  g; 
sound  died  a 


After  a  lo 
40°  F.  feel  ( 
musquetoes, 
low  io°,  wo 
level  green  ! 
the  valley  of 
name.  The 
beauty,  whic 
travelers  ha\ 
rivers."  On 
hillocks,  shai 
The  valley,  1 
great  streami 
out  sage  or  h 
the  water's  ( 
Under  a  ban 
lawns  of  ver 
rays  of  the  r 
shed  rosy  li^ 
horizon,  but 
two  miles  lo 
quarters,  anc 
well  timberc 

Without  ( 
the  most  imj 
ley  oft'ers  a  i 
requiring  litt 
following  uj 
a  lino  laid  d 
Rocky  Moui 
the  Pacific  w 
or  400  miles 
populated  pn 
with  never-U) 
will  sliortly 
thinned  out. 


Chap.  I, 


LA  GRANDE  PLATTE, 


89 


diers  from  Fort  Kearney  loitered  about  the  adjoining  store,  and 
from  them  we  heard  past  fights  and  rumors  of  future  wars  which 
were  confirmed  on  the  morrow.  Remounting  at  10  30  P.M.,  and 
before  moonrise,  we  threaded  the  gloom  without  other  accident 
than  the  loss  of  a  mule  that  was  being  led  to  the  next  station. 
The  amiable  animal,  after  breaking  loose,  coquetted  with  its  pur- 
suers for  a  while,  according  to  the  fashion  of  its  kind,  and  when 
the  cerne  or  surround  T;as  judged  complete,  it  dashed  through  the 
circle  and  gave  leg-bail,  its  hoofs  ringing  over  the  stones  till  the 
sound  died  away  in  the  distant  shades. 

The  Platte  River  and  Fort  Kearney,  August  10. 

After  a  long  and  chilly  night — extensive  evaporation  making 
40°  F.  feel  excessively  cold— lengthened  by  the  atrocity  of  the 
musquetoes,  which  sting  even  when  the  thermometer  stands  be- 
low 45°,  we  awoke  upon  the  hill  sands  divided  by  two  miles  of 
level  green  savanna,  and  at  4  A.M.  reached  Kearney  Station,  in 
the  valley  of  La  Grande  Platte,  seven  miles  from  the  fort  of  that 
name.  The  first  aspect  of  the  stream  was  one  of  calm  and  quiet 
beauty,  which,  however,  it  owed  much  to  its  accessories:  some 
travelers  have  not  hesitated  to  characterize  it  as  "  the  dreariest  of 
rivers."  On  the  south  is  a  rolling  range  of  red  sandy  and  clayey 
hillocks,  sharp  toward  the  river— the  "  coasts  of  the  Nebraska." 
The  valley,  here  two  miles  broad,  resembles  the  ocean  deltas  of 
great  streams ;  it  is  level  as  a  carpet,  all  short  green  grass  with- 
out sago  or  bush.  It  can  hardly  be  called  a  bottom,  the  rise  from 
the  water's  edge  being,  it  is  calculated,  about  4  feet  per  1000. 
Under  a  bank,  from  half  a  yard  to  a  yard  high,  through  its  two 
lawns  of  verdure,  flowed  the  stream  straight  toward  the  slanting 
rays  of  the  rising  sun,  which  glittered  upon  its  broad  bosom,  and 
shed  rosy  light  over  half  the  heavens.  In  places  it  shows  a  sea 
horizon,  but  here  it  was  narrowed  by  Grand  Island,  which  is  fifty- 
two  miles  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  one  mile  and  three 
quarters,  and  sufficiently  elevated  above  the  annual  flood  to  be 
well  timbered. 

Without  excepting  even  the  Missouri,  the  Platte  is  doubtless 
the  most  important  western  influent  of  the  Mississippi.  Its  val- 
ley offers  a  route  scarcely  to  be  surpassed  for  natural  gradients, 
rcciuiring  little  beyond  the  superstructure  for  light  trains;  and  by 
following'  up  its  tributary— the  Sweetwater- the  engineer  finds 
a  lino  laid  down  by  nature  to  the  foot  of  the  South  Pass  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Pacific  water-bedf^.  At  present  the  traveler  can  cross  the  800 
or  400  miles  of  desert  between  the  settlements  in  the  east  and  the 
populated  parts  of  the  western  mountains  by  its  broad  highway, 
with  never-failing  supplies  of  water,  and,  in  places,  fuel.  Its  banks 
will  shortly  supply  coal  to  take  the  place  of  the  timber  that  has 
thinned  out. 


40 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  I. 


The  Canadian  yoyageurs  first  named  it  La  Platte,  the  Flat  Eiver 
discarding,  or  rather  translating  after  their  fashion,  the  musical  and 
picturesque  aboriginal  term,  "Nebraska,"  the  "shallow  stream:" 
the  word  has  happily  been  retained  for  the  Territory.    Springing 
from  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  it  has,  like  all  thi 
In   nLfif^T  T?^^'*^  °^  *?^  Mississippi,  the  Niobrara,  or  Eau 
qui  court,*  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Canadian  Eiver,  a  declination 
nni      '?^*^^'^!*-,  F^o"i  .Its  mouth  to  the  junction  of  its  northern 
and  southern  forks  the  river  valley  is  mostly  level,  and  the  scen- 
ery is  ol  remarkable  sameness:  its  singularity  in  this  point  affects 
the  memory.    There  is  not  a  tributary,  not  a  ravine,  in  places  not 
a  tree  to  distract  attention  from  the  grassy  intermediate  bottom 
which,  plain  as  a  prairie,  extends  from  four  to  five  and  even  twelve 
miles  in  width,  bounded  on  both  sides  by  low,  rolling,  sandy  hills 
thinly  vegetated,  and  in  few  places  showing  dwarf  bluffs     Be- 
tween the  forks  and  Fort  Laramie  the  ground  is  more  accented 
the  land  near  its  banks  often  becomes  precipitous,  the  road  must 
sometimes  traverse  the  tongues  and  ridges  which  project  into  the 
valley,  and  in  parts  the  path  is  deep  with  sand,    kh  stream  av- 
erages about  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  sometimes  widens  out  into  the 
semblance  of  an  estuary,  flowing  in  eddies  where  holes  are,  and 
broken  by  far-reaching  sand-bars  and  curlew  shallows.    In  places 
It  IS  a  labyrinth  of  islets,  variously  shaped  and  of  all  sizes,^from 
the  long  tongue  which  forms  a  vista  to  the  little  bouquet  of  cool 
verdure,  grass,  young  willows,  and  rose-bushes.    The  shallowness 
ot  the  bed  causes  the  water  to  be  warm  in  summer;  a  great  con- 
trast to  the  clear,  cool  springs  on  its  banks.    The  sole  is  treacher- 
ous in   he  extreme,  ful  of  quicksands  and  gravel  shoals,  channels 
and  cuts,  which  shift,  like  those  of  the  Lidus,  with  each  year's 
flood ;  the  site  being  nearly  level,  the  river  easily  swells,  and  the 
banks,  here  of  light,  there  of  dark  colored  silt,  based,  like  the  floor 
on  sand,  are,  though  vertical,  rarely  more  than  two  feet  liiffh     It 
is  a  river  willfully  wasted  by  nature.    The  inundation  raises  it  to 
about  SIX  feet  throughout:  this  freshet,  however,  is  of  short  duri- 
tion,  and  the  great  breadth  of  the  river  causes  a  want  of  dcnlh 
which  renders  it  unfit  for  the  navigation  of  a  craft  more  civili/ed 
than  the  Indian's  birch  or  the  Canadian  fur-boat.     Colonel  Vn< 
rnont  failed  to  descend  it  in  September  with  a  boat  drawing  onlv 
four  inches.    The  water,  ike  that  of  the  Missouri,  and  for  the  same 
reason,  IS  surcharged  mih  mud  drained  from  the  prairies;  canS 

ffTff    i'  '*  .'rr '"-"^i  ^  t'^  *'"«^'  '^  '-^  remarkably'  opaque 
after  floods:  if  a  i^aw  ine  ips  dpon  \t  n,a-c.  v,^tf„^i '\  J   7. 


afler  floods;  if  a  few  inches  deep,  it  Tot/ks  Vott^miesra^id,  finX" 

for.    From  the  mouth  to  Fort  Kcar- 


it  contains  little  worth  fishing „,  „„„„^  ,^  ,^^^ 

ney,  beyond  which  point  timber  is  rare,  one  bank,  and  one  or  v 
18  fringed  with  narrow  lines  of  well-grown  cotton-wood,  red  wil- 

*  For  nn  «rcnrnto  KPnfrrnpliical  dpscription  of  iliis  little- knonn  pivor  n  „        i     ■ 
rcfor...  .0  Lieutenant  Warrca-s  repo.., iubli^LoU  b/ll' o  Jrcli;;':^' il'^^VJ 


CflAr.  I. 


THE  WILD  GAIiDEN. 


41 


lows,  and  cedars,  which  are  disappearing  before  the  emigrant's 
axe.  The  cedar  now  becomes  an  important  tree.  It  will  not  grow 
on  the  plains,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  climate  and  the  excess- 
ive cold ;  even  in  the  sheltered  ravines  the  wintry  winds  have 
power  to  blight  all  the  tops  that  rise  above  prairie  level,  and  where 
the  locality  is  better  adapted  for  plantations,  firs  prevail.  An  in- 
teresting effect  of  climate  upon  the  cedar  is  quoted  by  travelers 
on  the  Missouri  Eiver.  At  the  first  Cedar  Island  (43°  N.  lat.)  large 
and  straight  trees  appear  in  the  bottom  lands,  those  on  the  bluffs 
being  of  inferior  growth ;  higher  up  the  stream  they  diminish, 
seldom  being  seen  in  any  number  together  above  the  mouth  of  ■ 
the  Little  Cheyenne  (45°  N.  lat,),  and  there  they  are  exceedingly 
crooked  and  twisted.  In  the  lignite  formations  above  the  Mis- 
souri and  the  Yellow  Stone,  the  cedar,  unable  to  support  itself 
above  ground,  spreads  over  the  hill-sides  and  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  grass  or  moss. 

Beyond  the  immediate  banks  of  the  Platte  the  soil  is  cither 
sandy,  quickly  absorbing  water,  or  it  is  a  hard,  cold,  unwhole- 
some clay,  which  long  retains  muddy  pools,  black  with  decayed 
vegetation,  and  which  often,  in  the  lowest  levels,  becomes  a  mere 
marsh.  The  wells  deriving  infiltration  from  the  higher  lands  be- 
yond are  rarely  more  than  three  feet  deep ;  the  produce  is  some- 
what saline,  and  here  and  there  salt  may  be  seen  efllorescing  from 
the  soil  around  them.  In  the  large  beds  of  prclc  (an  equisetum), 
scouring  rush,  and  other  aquatic  plants  which  garnish  the  banks, 
myriad's  of  musquetoes  find  a  home.  Flowers  of  rich,  warm  color 
appear,  we  remark,  in  the  sandy  parts :  the  common  wild  helian- 
thus  and  a  miniature  sunflower  like  chamomile,  a  thistle  {Carduus 
leucographm),  the  cactus,  a  peculiar  milk-plant  {Asdcpias  sj/nvea), 
a  spurgewort  {Asch'2M'as  tuba-osa),  the  amorpha,  the  tradescantia, 
the  putoria,  and  the  artemisia,  or  prairie  sage.  The  richer  soils 
and  ravines  produce  in  abundance  the  purple  aster  — violet  of 
these  regions  — a  green  plant,  locally  known  as  "Lamb's  Quar- 
ters, a  purple  flower  with  bulbous  root,  wild  flax  with  pretty 
blue  blossoms,  besides  mallow,  digitalis,  anemone,  strcptanthis, 
and  a  honeysuckle.  In  parts  the  valley  of  the  Platte  is  a  perfect 
parterre  of  wild  flowers. 

After  satisfying  hunger  with  vile  bread  and  viler  coffee— how 
far  from  the  little  forty-berry  cup  of  Egypt!— for  which  we  paid 
75  cents,  we  left  Kearney  Station  without  delay.  Hugging  the 
right  bank  of  our  strange  river,  at  8  A.M.  wo  found  ourselves  at 
tort  Kearney,  so  called,  as  is  the  custom,  after  the  gallant  officer, 
now  deceased,  of  that  name. 

Every  square  box  or  block-house  in  these  regions  is  u  fort;  no 
misnomer,  however,  can  be  more  complete  than  the  word  applied 
to  the  military  cantonments  on  the  frontier.  In  former  times  tho 
traders  to  whom  these  places  mostly  belonged  erected  quadran- 
gles of  sun-dned  brick  with  towers  at  the  angles;  their  forts  still 


42 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  L 


appear  in  old  books  of  travels:  the  War  Department,  however, 
has  been  sensible  enough  to  remove  them.     The  position  usually 
chosen  is  a  river  bottom,  where  fuel,  grass,  and  water  are  readilv 
procurable.    The  quarters  are  of  various  styles ;  some,  with  their 
low  verandas,  resemble  Anglo-Indian  bungalows  or  comfortable 
farm-houses;  others  are  the  storied  houses,  with  the  "stoop"  or 
porch  of  the  Eastern  States  in  front;  and  low,  long,  peat-roofed 
tenements  are  used  for  magazines  and  out-houses.    The  best  ma- 
terial is  brown  adobe  or  unburnt  brick ;  others  are  of  timber, 
whitewashed  and  clean-looking,  with  shingle  roofs,  glass  win- 
dows, and  gay  green  frames — that  contrast  of  colors  which  the 
New  Englander  loves.     The  habitations  surround  a  cleared  cen- 
tral space  for  parade  and  drill ;  the  ground  is  denoted  by  the  tall 
flag-staff;  which  does  not,  as  in  English  camps,  distinguish  the 
quarters  of  the  commanding  officer.    One  side  is  occupied  by  the 
officers'  bungalows,  the  other,  generally  that  opposite,  by  the  ad- 
jutant's and  quartermaster's  offices,  and  the  square  is  completed 
by  low  ranges  of  barrack  and  commissariat  stores,  while  various 
little  shops,  stables,  corrals  for  cattle,  a  chapel,  perhaps  an  artil- 
lery park,  and  surely  an  ice-house— in  this  point  India  is  far  be- 
hind the  wilds  of  America— complete  the  settlement.    Had  these 
cantonments  a  few  moro  trees  and  a  far  more  brilliant  verdure, 
they  would  suggest  the  idea  of  an  out-station  in  Guzerat,  the  Dec- 
can,  or  some  similar  Botany  Bay  for  decayed  gentlemen  who 
transport  themselves. 

_  While  at  Washington  I  had  resolved— as  has  already  been  in- 
timated—when the  reports  of  war  in  the  West  were  waxing  loud, 
to  enjoy  a  little  Indian  fighting.  The  meritorious  intention  —  • 
for  which  the  severest  "wig."  concluding  with  soraetuing  person- 
ally offensive  about  volunteering  in  general,  would  have  been  its 
sole  result  in  the  "  fast-anchored  isle"— was  most  courteously  re- 
ceived by  the  Hon.  John  B.  Floyd,  Secretary  of  War,  who  pro- 
vided me  with  introductory  letters  addressed,  to  the  officers  com- 
manding various  "departments"*— "divisions,"  as  they  would 

*  T.'?°  following  is  a  list  of  the  military  departments  into  which  the  United  States 
Military  Cojimands. 
ntT?o7,%V''''^'''''~'^^°  country  cast  of  the  Mississippi  River;  head-quartois 

Z)jvmrt/««j,<  „nhe  West. -Tho  country  west  of  the  Mississippi  River,  nnd  east  of 
U^eliockv  Mountains  except  that  portion  included  within  the  limits  of  tho  depart- 
ments of  Texas  and  New  Mexico ;  licad-quartcrs  at  St.  Louis,  Mo.  ^ 

department  of  r^a*.— The  State  of  Texas,  and  tho  territory  nor  h  of  it  to  tho 
S  Krsl?'\''?«r'  '''•"^^^'  ""J.A''"*-'^.  nnd  the  Arka^nsas  iliver  'i  dud- 
^f  N  Vf  ■  ''•  ,^°';*  "''*"•  '"  T*""^"'  '^  tempororily  attached  to  tho  department 
of  Now  Mexico ;  head-quarters  at  San  Antonio,  Texas.  uepanmtnt 

S«S'F?New-So''"'™-~'''"  '''""'"■^  "'  ^"^^  ''*^'"''"'   head-quarters  at 

,f  iiTuTf  ^''"'';-'r''°  Territory  of  Utah,  except  that  portion  of  it  Iving  west 
of  110  11 ,  til  dcRreo  of  west  lonRitudc  ;  hoad-quarters,  Camp  Floyd.  U  T  ' 
Ueparime,u  of  the  J'acific.-Tho  country  west  of  tho  uicky  Mountains,  except 


CUAF.  L 


INDIAN  FIGHTING. 


43 


be  called  by  Englisliinen — in  tlie  West.  The  first  tidings  that 
saluted  my  ears  on  arrival  at  Fort  Kearney  acted  as  a  quietus : 
an  Indian  action  had  been  fought,  which  signified  that  there 
■would  be  no  more  fighting  for  some  time.  Captain  Sturgis,  of 
the  1st  Cavalry,  U.  S.,  had  just  attacked,  near  the  Kepublican  Fork 
of  Kansas  Eiver,  a  little  south  of  the  fort,  with  six  companies 
(about  350  men)  and  a  few  Delawares,  a  considerable  body  of  the 
enemy,  Comanches,  Kiowas,  and  Cheyennes,  who  apparently  had 
forgotten  the  severe  lesson  administered  to  them  by  Colonel — 
now  Brigadier  General— -Edwin  V.  Sumner,  1st  Cavalry,  in  1857, 
and  killed  twenty-five  with  only  two  or  three  of  his  own  men 
wounded.  According  to  details  gathered  at  Fort  Kearney,  the 
Indians  had  advanced  under  a  black  flag,  lost  courage,  as  wild 
men  mostly  will,  when  they  heard  the  pas  de  charge,  and,  after 
making  a  running  fight,  being  well  mounted  as  well  as  armed,  had 
carried  off  their  "  cripples"  lashed  to  their  horses.  I  had  no  time 
to  call  upon  Captain  Sully,  who  remained  in  command  at  Kear- 
ney with  two  troops  (here  called  companies)  of  dragoons,  or  heavy 
cavalry,  and  one  of  infantry ;  the  mail-wagon  would  halt  there 
but  a  few  minutes.  I  therefore  hurriedly  chose  the  alternative 
of  advancing,  with  the  hope  of  seeing  "independent  service"  on 
the  road.  Intelligence  of  the  fight  had  made  even  the  conductor 
look  grave ;  fifty  or  sixty  miles  is  a  flea-bite  to  a  mounted  war- 
party,  and  disappointed  Indians  upon  the  war-path  are  especially 
dangerous — even  the  most  friendly  can  not  be  trusted  when  they 
have  lost,  or  have  not  succeeded  in  taking,  a  few  scalps.  We  sub- 
sequently heard  that  they  had  crossed  our  path,  but  whether  the 
tale  was  true  or  not  is  an  essentially  doubtful  matter.  If  this 
chance  failed,  remained  the  excitement  of  the  buffalo  and  the 
Mormon ;  both  were  likely  to  show  better  sport  than  could  be 
found  in  riding  wildly  about  the  country  after  runaway  braves. 

We  all  prepared  for  the  "  gravity  of  the  situation"  by  discharg- 
ing and  reloading  our  weapons,  and  bade  adieu,  about  9  30  A.M., 
to  Fort  Kearney.  Before  dismissing  the  subject  of  forts,  I  am 
disposed  to  make  some  invidious  remarks  upon  the  army  system 
of  outposts  in  America. 

The  War  Department  of  the  United  States  has  maintained  the 
same  system  which  the  British,  much  to  their  loss — I  need  scarce- 
ly trouble  the  reader  with  a  list  of  evils  done  to  the  soldier  by 
outpost  duty — adopted  and  pertinaciously  kept  up  for  so  long  a 
time  in  India ;  nay,  even  maintain  to  the  present  day,  despite  the 
imminent  danger  of  mutiny.  With  the  Anglo-Scandinavian  race, 
the  hate  of  centralization  in  civil  policy  extends  to  military  or- 

those  portions  of  it  included  within  the  limits  of  the  departments  of  Utah  nnd  New 
Mexico,  nnd  the  distrirt  of  Oregon  ;  head-qunrtera  at  8an  Frnnciseo,  California. 

District  of  Oregon. — The  TciTitory  of  Washington  and  the  State  of  Oregon,  ex- 
cepting the  Rogue  River  and  Umpqua  districts  in  Oregon ;  head-quarters  at  Fort 
Vancouver,  Wa.-'hington  Territory. 


44 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  J. 


gamzation  of  which  it  should  be  the  vital  principle.  The  French 
g  fted  with  mstmct  for  war,  and  being  troubled  with  scan  preju-' 
fZFT  r««?tratK)n,  civil  as  well  as  militaiy,  soon  abln- 
Awin  /''  ?^3^/°""d  "«,  f]^tility,  the  idea  of  defending  their 
tfiSp^,  T'%V  ^""'^^^^  ^^'''  block-houses,  and  feeble  in- 
trenched posts.     They  wiselj  established,  at  the  centres  of  action 

bE'o7'^''^''\"^^  f  the  requisites  for  supporting  Tare 
bodies  of  men,  making  them  pivots  for  expeditionary  columns 
which  by  good  military-roads  could  be  thrown  in  ove^wheS 

aaTtt^oV^'  ^'''^''^^  -dinthe-highestdisciplire  whtre? 
an  attack  or  an  insurrectionary  movement  required  crushing 

ihe  necessity  of  so  domg  has  long  occurred  to  the  American 
government,  m  whose  service  at  present  "a  regiment  is  stationpri 
to-day  on  the  borders  of  tropical  Mexico;  to-morrow  the  w'r 
whoop  borne  on  a  gale  from  the  northwest,  compels  iT^  preset 
to  the  frozen  latitudes  of  Puget's  Sound."  The  obiectioSs  to  nl 
termg  their  present  highly  objectionable  system  aSo:  the  first' 
IS  a  civi  consideration,  the  second  a  military  one 

As  I  have  remarked  about  the  centralization  of  troops  so  it  is 
witn  their  relation  to  civilians;  the  Anglo-ScandiSn  blood 

Ihe  Irench,  a  purely  military  nation,  pet  their  raunv  raise  t  to 

tially  a  commercial  and  nava^^Ie  di^^e  tht'e'rco"^^ 
look  upon,  and  from  the  first  they  looked  upon  a  stanZo-'nl^ 
as  a  necessary  nuisance;  they  evlr  listen  of.e LareTto  |roS 

tS:^^^:'lT''^'l'^  ''™^  expenditure    and  when  th^'Ce 
weakened  their  forces  by  a  manner  of  atrophy,  thev  expect  them 

abuse  them.  With  a  commissariat,  tiisport,  and  hospitals-deli' 
cate  pieces  of  rnachinery,  which  cannot  run  smoothly  when  rouS" 
ly  and  hurriedly  put  together-unaccustomed  to  aiKiprepS" 
for  service,  they  land  an  army  3000  miles  from  homp  fm^fu 
make  the  world  ring  with  thiir  disappointmrt  nlTh  ^^'''' 
Plamings  anent  fearfu^l  losses  in  men  Sr^on""*'  Sio  I^STs  Z" 
chough  no  soldiers  in  the  world  fight  with  moro  1.rn,tl  f  ;  ' 
termination,  the  Angb^^^^^^^^^ 

tu  ions,  are  inferior  to  their  inferiors  iti  other  points  afrcSs  tl  L" 
art  of  military  organization.     Their  fatal  want"   arc  Sr  on^ 


CUAP.  I. 


OUTPOST  SYSTEMS. 


45 


please,  even  in  an  Indian  country,  and  every  season  has  its  dread- 
ful tales  of  violence  and  starvation,  massacre  and  cannibalism.  In 
France  the  emigrants  would  be  ordered  to  collect  in  bodies  at  cer- 
tain seasons,  to  report  their  readiness  for  the  road  to  the  officers 
commanding  stations,  to  receive  an  escort,  as  he  should  deem 
proper,  and  to  disobey  at  their  peril. 

The  other  motive  of  the  American  outpost  system  is  military, 
but  also  of  civilian  origin.  Concentration  would  necessarily  be 
unpalatable  to  a  number  of  senior  officers,-  who  now  draw  what  in 
England  would  be  called  command  allowances  at  the  several  sta- 
.  tions.*  One  of  the  principles  of  a  republic  is  to  pay  a  man  only 
while  he  works ;  pensions,  like  sinecures,  are  left  to  governments 
less  disinterested.  The  American  army— it  would  hardly  be  be- 
lieved— has  no  pensions,  sale  of  commissions,  off-reckonings,  nor 
retiring  list.  A  man  hopelessly  invalided,  or  in  his  second  child- 
hood, must  hang  on  by  means  of  furloughs  and  medical  certificates 
to  the  end.  The  colonels  are  mostly  upon  the  sick-list— one  died 
lately  aged  ninety-three,  and  dating  from  the  days  of  Louis  XYI. 
— and  I  heard  of  an  officer  who,  though  practicing  medicine  for 
years,  was  still  retained  upon' the  cadre  of  his  regiment.  Of  course, ' 
the  necessity  of  changing  such  an  anomaly  has  frequently  been 
mooted  by  the  Legislature ;  the  scandalous  failure,  however,  of  an 
attempt  at  introducing  a  pension-list  into  the  United  States  Navy 
so  shocked  the  public  that  no  one  will  hear  of  the  experiment  be- 
ing renewed,  even  in  corpore  vili,  the  army. 

To  conclude  the  subject  of  outpost  system.  If  the  change  be 
advisable  in  the  United  States,  it  is  positively  necessary  to  the 
British  in  India.  The  peninsula  presents  three  main  points,  not 
to  mention  the  detached  heights  that  are  found  in  every  province, 
as  the  great  pivots  of  action,  the  Himalayas,  the  Deccan,  and  the 
Nilgherry  Hills,  where,  until  wanted,  the  Sepoy  and  his  officer,  as 
well  as  the  white  soldier— the  latter  worth  £100  a  head— can  be 
kept  in  health,  drilled,  disciplined,  and  taught  the  hundred  arts 
which  render  an  "  old  salt"  the  most  handy  of  men.  A  few  years 
ago  the  English  soldier  was  fond  of  Indian  service ;  hardly  a  regi- 
ment returned  home  without  leaving  hundreds  behind  it.  Now, 
long,  fatiguing  marches,  scant  fare,  the  worst  accommodation,  and 
the  various  results  of  similar  hardships,  make  him  look  upon  the 
land  as  a  Golgotha ;  it  is  with  difficulty  that  he  can  be  prevented 
from  showing  his  disgust.  Both  in  India  and  America,  this  will 
be  the  great  benefit  of  extensive  railroads :  they  will  do  away  with 
single  stations,  and  enable  the  authorities  to  carry  out  a  system 
of  concentration  most  beneficial  to  the  country  and  to  the  service, 

*  The  npgregnte  of  the  little  regular  army  of  the  United  States  in  18G0  amounted 
to  18,00;t.  It  was  dispersed  into  eighty  military  posts,  viz.,  thirteen  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  the  East,  nine  in  tlm  West,  twenty  in  Texas,  twelve  in  the  Department  of 
New  Mexico,  two  in  Utaii  (Fort  Bridgcr  and  Camjj  Floyd),  eleven  in  Oregon,  and 
thirteen  in  the  Department  of  California.  They  each  would  have  an  average  of 
obout  225  men. 


Ml 


i 


I     m 


,UAi 


t1 


46 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


which,  after  many  years  of  sore  drudgery,  may  at  last  discern  the 
good  time  coming. 

In  the  United  States,  two  other  measures  appear  called  for  by 
circumstances.  The  Indian  race  is  becoming  desperate,  wild-beast 
like,  hemmed  in  by  its  enemies  that  have  flanked  it  on  the  east 
and  west,  and  are  gradually  closing  in  upon  it.  The  tribes  can 
no  longer  shift  ground  without  inroads  into  territories  already  oc- 
cupied by  neighbors,  who  are,  of  course,  hostile ;  they  are  there- 
fore, being  brought  to  final  bay.  ' 

The  first  is  a  camel  corps.    At  present,  when  disturbances  on  a 
large  scale  occur  in  the  Far  West — the  spring  of  1862  will  prob-  » 
ably  see  them — a  force  of  cavalry  must  be  sent  from  the  East 
perhaps  also  infantry.     "  The  horses,  after  a  march  of  500  or  600 
miles,  are  expected  to  act  with  success"— I  quote  the  sensible  re- 
marks of  a  "late  captain  of  infantry"  (Captain  Patterson  U  S 
Armv)— "against  scattered  bands  of  mounted  hunters  with  "the 
speed  of  a  horse  and  the  watchfulness  of  a  wolf  or  antelo'pe,  whose 
faculties  are  sharpened  by  their  necessities;  who,  when  thev  eet 
short  of  provisions,  separate  and  look  for  something  to  eat,  and 
find  It  in  tae  water,  in  the  ground,  or  on  the  surface ;  whose  biU 
of  fare  ranges  from  grass-seed,  nuts,  roots,  grasshoppers,  lizards. 

Za  SlT'^-'"'  "P  V^'  ^^^'^^P^'  ^'^'^^^^  bear,  and' buffalo 
^ri^    '    7/"°  ^  '°"^!?'"'  ^"^  "°^™  «^^^'  ^ill  neither  be  sur^ 
?nn?w;-n     S    'I'^rr'''"^'  overawed,  or  reduced  to  famine  by  a 
rumbling,  bugle- blowing,  drum-beating  town  passing  through 
their  country  on  wheels,  at  the  speed  of  a  loadeS  wag?n  "But 
the  camel  wou  d  m  these  latitudes  easily  march  sixty  miles  per 
diem  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  amply  sufficient  to  tire  out  the  stur- 
diest Indian  pony;  it  requires  water  only  after  every  fifty  hours 
and  the  worst  soil  would  supnly  it  with  ample  forage"^int^e  shape 
of  wild  sage  rabbit-bush,  an5  thorns.     Each  animal  would  ca?fy 
two  men,  with  their  arms  and  ammunition,  rations  for  the  time 
required,  bedding  and  regimental  necessaries,  with  ma  eriaUo 
niake  up  a  iente  fabri  if  judged  necessary.     The  o™"a  ion 
should  be  that  of  the  Sindh  Camel  Corps,  which,  unLr  81™^ 
Napier,  was  found  so  efficient  against  the  frontier  Beloch      The 
best  men  for  this  kind  of  fightin|  would  be  the  Mountainee  Jor 

7ttoJW:''\'l\^^'-S'  ^^°"'*^«  excellenrSLuTGencral 
Hekekv^n  if  ^f ''  '"  ^fyP*'  ^'^"^^  '^'  ^'^^"•'^ble  instructions  of 
ilekekyan  Bey,  has  proved  a  failure  in  the  Western  world     If 

ac£  tizote'r'  ^/'  ^'VY  ''^'  «^"^«'  *^«  anrmll  must  be 
acclimatized  by  slow  degrees  before  heavy  loading  to  test  its  pow- 


a  view  to 


# 


Chap,  I. 


THE  CAMEL  CORPS. 


47 


ers  of  strength  and  speed.  Some  may  deem  this  amount  of  delay 
impossible.  I  confess  my  belief  that  the  Anglo-Americans  can, 
within  any  but  the  extremest  limits,  accomplish  any  thing  they 
please — except  unity. 

The  other  necessity  will  be  the  raising  of  native  regiments. 
The  French  in  Africa  have  their  Spahis,  the  Eussians  their  Cos- 
sacks, and  the  English  their  Sepoys.  The  American  government 
has  often  been  compelled,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Creek  battalion, 
which  did  good  service  during  the  Seminole  campaign,  indirectly 
to  use  their  wild  aborigines ;  but  the  public  sentiment,  or  rather 
prejudice,  which  fathers  upon  the  modern  Pawnee  the  burning 
and  torturing  tastes  of  the  ancient  Mohawk,  is  strongly  opposed 
to  pitting  Indian  against  Indian  in  battle.  Surely  this  is  a  false 
as  well  as  a  mistaken  philanthropy.  If  war  must  be,  it  is  better 
that  Indian  instead  of  white  blooH.  should  be  shed.  And  inva- 
riably the  effect  of  enlisting  savages  and  barbarians,  subjecting 
them  to  discipline,  and  placing  them  directly  under  the  eye  of  the 
civilized  man,  has  been  found  to  diminish  their  ferocity.  The 
Bashi  Buzuk,  left  to  himself,  roasted  the  unhappy  Eussian ;  in 
the  British  service  he  brought  his  prisoner  alive  into  camp  with 
a  view  to  a  present  or  promotion.  When  talking  over  the  sub- 
ject with  the  officers  of  the  United  States  regular  army,  they  have 
invariably  concurred  with  me  in  the  possibility  of  the  scheme, 
provided  that  the  public  animus  could  be  turned  pro  instead  of 
con ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  they  will  prove  as  leaders  of 
Irregulars — it  would  be  invidious  to  quote  names — equal  to  the 
best  of  the  Anglo -Indians,  Skinner,  Beatson,  and  Jacob.  The 
men  .would  receive  about  ten  dollars  per  man,  and  each  corps 
number  300.  They  would  be  better  mounted  and  better  armed 
than  their  wild  brethren,  and  they  might  be  kept,  when  not  re- 
quired for  active  service,  in  a  buflfixlo  country,  their  favorite  quar- 
ters, and  their  finest  field  for  soldierlike  exercises.  The  main 
point  to  be  avoided  is  the  mistake  committed  by  the  British  in 
India,  that  of  appointing  too  many  officers  to  their  Sepoy  corps. 

We  left  Kearney  at  9  30  A.M.,  following  the  road  which  runs 
forty  miles  up  the  valley  of  the  Platte.  It  is  a  broad  prairie, 
plentifully  supplied  wia  water  in  wells  two  to  four  feet  deep; 
the  fluid  is  cool  and  clear,  but  it  is  said  not  to  be  wholesome. 
Where  the  soil  is  clayey  pools  abound ;  the  sandy  portions  are 
of  course  dry.  Along  the  southern'  bank  near  Kearney  are  few 
elevations ;  on  the  opposite  or  northern  side  appear  high  and 
wooded  bluffs.  The  road  was  rough  with  pitch-holes,  and  for  the 
first  time  I  remarked  a  peculiar  gap  in  the  ground  like  an  East 
Indian  sun-crack — in  these  latitudes  you  see  none  of  the  deep  fis- 
sures which  scar  the  face  of  mother  earth  in  tropica]  lands — the 
effect  of  rain-streams  and  snow-water  acting  upon  the  clay.  Each 
succeeding  winter  lengthens  the  head  and  deepens  the  sole  of  this 
deeply-gashed  water-cut  till  it  destroys  the  road.    A  curious  mi- 


ll   .' 


♦■ 


48 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


rage  appeared,  doubling  to  four  the  strata  of  river  and  vegetation 
on  the  tanks.     The  sight  and  song  of  birds  once  more  charmed 
us  after  a  desert  where  animal  life  is  as  rare  as  upon  the  plains 
of  Brazil.     After  fifteen  miles  of  tossing  and  tumbling,  we  made 
"Seventeen-mile  Station,"  a.d  halted  there  to  change  nS 
About  twenty  miles  above  the  fort  the  southern  bank  bc-in  to 
rise  into  mounds  of  tenacious  clay,  which,  worn  away  into  per 
pendicular  and  precipitous  sections,  composes  the  colnmnnr  f^v 
,        mation  called  O'Fallo^n's  Bluffs.    At  1  15^  P.M.  we  rt  hed  Rum 
Creek,  after  being  obliged  to  leave  behind  one  of  the  conductors 
who  had  become  delirious  with  the  '^shakes."    The  cs  ST 
ment,  though  new,  w.as  already  divided  into  three;  the  little  land-' 
ady,  though  she  worked  so  manfully,  was,  as  she  exi)ressedt 
"enioying  bad  health;"  in  other  words,  suffering  fromV  ''dum^ 
chilf."    I  may  observe  that  the  Prairie  Traveler's  op  Lions  cSi 
cermng  the  power  of  encamping  with  impunity  upon  the  LnA 

"  These  nre  tl.o  Rnnlcnn  „r  tl.o  desert,  the«, 
riie  „nsl,„r„  fid.ls,  ho,„„||,.ss  «,ul  l.enutiful. 

It  IS  suid  tliat  a  Kteak  cookod  wJtl,  d,  ^  "  '^    '^^  ^^'''"^1« 

Wo  „i,..,  „.  Hu,rct'^o;:\S;ir,rar.\:,i''^  .,,0 

*  ,[''0  '•'''l>  <wro(.i>on(l«  with  tlio  hol«  dp  varlip  „f  S«  if,r  i      ,    . 
"••IKTior  ,0  ihtti  i,si.J  i„  Hiu,l|,.        •'"""''  "'^  *"'^"'-     ^V  itl.  ..11  its  fault,  „  i,  „i  ,,.^, 


Chap.  I. 

worst  and  ( 
without  tli( 
As  every  o 
eating,  and 
tion.    The 
in  August  c 
mas,  whcA 
that  tliere  i: 
assertion,  h( 
was  never  1 
least  one  wi 
voyage  urs  a 
have  been  li 
rich  hump  w 
as  possible, 
does  not  disa 
pork  with  th 
ercise  than  t' 
reach  New  "5 
butcher's  mc 
liunting,  Indi 
and  they  ha\ 
between  fat  a 
Ilesuming 
Ranch,"  and 
— live  miles 
Ilere,  while  cl 
smiles  to  per 
preaching  ma 
refused  to  do, 
ing.     Wo  liad 
tlio  line  maki 
and  buttermil 
lazily  enough 


PrecJFcly  at 
halt  at  Cotton- 
nights'  ride  in 
threw  ourselve 
ten  in  a  small 

*  ArrnrdinR  fn  ( 
tlio  Rcvcnil  ('1)11.11.11. 
!M),0()()  fnmi  tl.o  li, 
Dimienci'l.,  who  nti 
siiiitlictii  n'niinis  hv 
killed  iictwccn  Miii 
IH47,  the  fimii  of  | 
•kiiifi,  and  twuniv.Hi 


Chap.  I. 


BUFFALO-BEEF, 


49 


worst  and  drjest  meat,  save  elk,  that  I  have  ever  ta<,fPrl  ■  ^n^  i 
without  the  assistance  of  pork  fat,  we  found  Thnr.f?^  ff"''^' 
As  every  one  knows,  however,  th'e^woTar  old  cow  is  tho"l'^; 
eating,  and  at  this  season  the  herds  are  ever  TthTl  .  ^''v^ 
tion  The  animals  calve  in  May  and  June  eonseauenX't  ""'''^" 
in  August  complctelv  out  of  flesi  They  aVeTtlTaS  r^^^  '? 
mas,  whea  they  fincf  it  difficult  to  run.  "^  All  tron  t     l?"'^" 

pork  with  tfeTnS  Plow  bo;  -f^  l'  ^''^  ^ "'"''^'  °^  ^^'"'^^ 

erciso  than  the  cSiin  huntS     T?  ^  P^^^^^^Wy  t'-^ken  less  ox-- 

reach  New  York,  w£e  I  predict  ft t i H  i"l'  ^"^'^^  ^/^^'  ^^^" 

-five  miles  from  Midw^'Sn  wt h\7  Sf^  "s^?  ^J^ 
Here,  while  changing  mules,  we  attempted  with  sw(S  siwoh  n'^^^ 
smiles  to  persuade  tlio  landlady,  who  showed  svmntnL  nf 

uui  uuuermiii.     into  the  horrid  wagon  again  and  "-i  mllin  '' 
lazdy  enough  the  cold  and  hungry  night  p;sscd  on!*  ' ' 

Proci«olv  nf  1   qn  ,'„    fl  '^'>,*''oyorl:,oftheriattc.     Uth  August. 

killed  iK-lwocn  Mnrch  niul  NovrmlH.  •  JH  ,  i  '"-  ^""'"  ''>""''•••.  nor  those 
W7.  ,h,-  .own  „f  St  l" '„ls  n^;  l'',  0  „t  ffulo'r  T  "',""  •'■"l"  '"""'"«•  "' 
skin.,  and  t«a.tv.(ivo.uUcU  tongues  '"^''  ""J^"'  ^''^^'^'•'  ""'^  "H'cr 

D 


iitty^a 


f '  3^^tS' 


50 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chat.  I, 


— after  the  fashion  of  these  Western  folks,  who  make  up  for  a 
day  in  the  open  air  by  perspiring  through  the  night  in  unventi- 
lated  log  huts — and,  despite  musquetoes,  slept. 

The  morning  brought  with  it  no  joy.    We  had  arrived  at  the 
westernmost  limit  of  the  "gigantic  Leicestershire"  to  which  buf- 
falo at  this  season  extend,  and  could  hope  to  see  no  trace  of  them 
between  Cotton-wood  Station  and  the  Pacific.     I  can  not,  there- 
fore, speak  ex  cathcdrd  concerning  this,  the  noblest  "  venerie"  of 
the  West :  almost  every  one  who  has  crossed  the  prairies,  except 
myself,  can.     Captain  Stansbury*  will  enlighten  the  sportsman 
upon  the  approved  method  of  bryttling  the  beasts,  and  elucidate 
the  mysteries  of  the  "game-beef,"  marrow-bone  and  depuis,  tongue 
and  tender-loin,  bass  and  hump,  hump-rib  and  liver,  which  latter, 
by-the-by,  is  not  unfrequcntly  eaten  raw,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
gall,t  by  the  white  hunter  emulating  his  wild  rival,  as  docs  the 
European  in  Abyssinia.     The  Prairie  Traveler  has  given,  from 
experience,  the  latest  observations  concerning  the  best  modes  of 
hunting  the  animal.     All  that  remains  to  mc,  therefore,  is  to  oifer 
to  the  reader  a  few  details  collected  from  reliable  sources,  and 
which  are  not  to  be  found  in  the  two  works  above  alluded  to. 

The  bison  {Bison  Americanus)  is  trivially  known  as  the  Prairie 
Buffalo,  to  distinguish  it  from  a  different  and  a  larger  animal,  the 
Buffalo  of  the  Woods,  which  haunts  the  Rocky  Mountains.     The 
"Monarch  of  the  Prairies,"  tlio  "most  gigantic  of  the  indigenous 
mammalia  of  America,"  has,  it  is  calculated,  receded  westward  ten 
miles  annually  for  the  last  150  years.     AVhen  America  was  dis- 
covered,  the  buffalo  extended  down  to  the  Atlantic  shore.    Thirty 
years  ago,  bands  grazed  upon  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  River. 
Tlie  annual  destruction  is  variously  computed  at  from  200,000  to 
800,000  head :  the  American  Fur  Company  receive  per  annum 
about  70,000  robes,  which  arc  all  cows;  and  of  these  not  n  ore 
than  oOOO  fall  by  the  hands  of  white  men.     At  present  there  arc 
three  well-known  bands,  wliich  anlit  up,  at  certain  seasons,  into 
herds  of  2000  and  3000  each.     I'l.o  first  family  is  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Mississinpi ;  tlio  second  haunts  the  vast  crescent- 
shaped  valley  of  the  Yellow  Stone;  while  the  third  occui.ies  the 
nrairie  country  between  the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas.     A  fourth 
band,  westward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  (luito  extinct.     Four- 
teen to  fifteen  years  ago,  buffalo  was  found  in  Utah  Valley,  and 
later  still  upon  the  Humboldt  River:  according  to  some,  thev 
emigrated  northward,  througli  Oregon  and  the  lands  of  the  Blaek- 
teet.    It  13  more  prol)able,  however,  that  they  were  killed  off  bv 
the  severe  winter  of  1845,  their  skulls  being  still  found  8cattere"d 
in  heaps,  as  if  a  sudden  and  general  destruction  had  come  upon 
the  doomed  tribe.  ^ 

♦  ExjtlorHtion  iind  Snrvov,  o»r.,  clinp.  ix. 

i»«li    "„l'"''',''  !'i'"''7"~"'n'''"  "<■  •»  I'ii't  ..f  wntrr  ntul  a  quarter  ot  a  ciH  of  l)ufralo 
gall-aru  couwJuruU  an  </i>,>  i-,7,c  by  old  voya«cur». 


Chap.  I. 


THE  BUFFALO. 


51 


The  buffalo  is  partially  migratory  in  its  habits:  it  appears  to 

follow  the  snow,  which  preserves  its  food  from  destruction     Like 

the  ante  ODc  of  the  Cape,  when  on  the  "trek,"  the  band  mav  be 

reckoned  by  thousands.     The  grass,  which  takes  its  name  from 

the  animal,  is  plentiful  m  the  valley  of  the  Big  Blue-  it  Jovp« 

the  streams  of  little  creeks  that  have  no  bottom-land,  and  she! 

ters  Itself  under  the  sage.    It  is  a  small,  moss-like  gramcn  with 

dark  seed,  and,  when  dry,  it  has  been  compared  b/travelerTto 

twisted  gray  horsehair.    Smaller  herds  travel  in  Indian  file  •  theS 

huge  bodies,  weighing  1500  lbs.,  appear,  from  afar,  like  piles  erect' 

ed  to  bridge  the  plain.     After  calving, 'the  cows,  like  ie  African 

koodoo  and  other  antelopes,  herd  separately  from  the  males  and 

for  the  same  reason,  timidity  and  the  cares  of  maternity.    As  in 

driven'bvfl    '  '^'P^'"'  ""'^  the  hippopotamus,  the  oliters  are 

?ome'CitHT.  r''"^  \'^'  l'"^P^^'  ^^"^^^  t^e^  to-be- 
come  rogues  The  albino,  or  white  buffalo,  is  exceedingly  rare  • 
even  veteran  hunters  will  confess  never  to  have  seen  one     The 

robe,  supposed  hy  Western  men  to  be  a  cross  between  the  vt 
ren   and  t£e  offspring.     The  buffalo  calf  has  been  tIS  by   he 

utilized     '  ^^''"  "''^'''  ^"^^^^^'  ^^^^^  °f  itsteiiil 

The  Dakotahs  and  other  Prairie  tribes  will  degenerate  if  not 
disanpear,  when  the  buflalo  is  "  rubbed  out."  Thfrris  a  svmm 
thy  Utween  them,  and  the  beast  flies  not  from  th  ba  bS  aiS 
his  bow  as  It  docs  before  the  face  of  the  white  man  and  his  hot 
mouthed  weapon.  The  aborigines  are  unwillin^to  aHow  ray  j^ 
crs,  sportsmen,  or  exnlorers  to  pass  through  tlie  country  while 
they  are  uniting  the  Uffalo ;  that  is  to  say,  preserving  tl  game 

r^llTi  ^'u  "'"  T'^^  ^°'  '?^''-  ^^  theie  times  no  one  isTr- 
mi  ted  to  kill  any  but  stragg  ers,  for  fear  of  stampeding  the  bami ; 
ho  ammal  not  only  being  timid,  but  also  in  thi  habit  of  hurry- 
ing away  cattle  and  stock,  which  often  are  thus  irretrievably  lost 
In  duo  season  the  savages  surround  one  section,  and  destroy  it* 
the  others  lymauung  unalarmedlv  grazing  within  a  few  milci  of 
the  scene  of  shui.d.ter.  It  anotf.er  tribe  interferes,  it  is  txLl 
hell,  death  being  tlic  punishment  for  poaching.  The  white  man 
whose  careless  styh)  of  hativc  is  notirious,  will  be  liaWe  to  S 

^/S  ^.  1  T"  ^-'''''^  ''^  "'^  *^"8l's^»  gentleman  who,  for  per- 
sist ng  in  the  obnoxious  jiractice,  was  very  properly  threatened 
with  prosecution  by  the  government  agent  ^  ^  ^  ^'^rcatcncU 
What  tho  cocoanut  is  to  the  East  Indian,  and  the  plantain  and 
the  calabash  to  various  tribes  of  Africans,  nuch  is  tho  "bng"  to 
tho  carnivorous  son  of  America.  No  part  of  it  is  allowed  to 
^""^.t^;-,  |''o  'lorns  and  hoofs  make  glue  for  various  purposes,  es- 
pecially for  feathering  arrows;  the  brains  and  part  of  the  bowels 


52 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


are  used  for  curing  skins;  the  bide  clothes  the  tribes  from  head 
to  foot ;  the  calfskins  form  their  apisbamores,  or  saddle-blankets ; 
the  smews  make  their  bow-strings,  thread,  and  finer  cord ;  every 
part  of  the  flesh,  including  the  foetus  and  placenta,  is  used  for 
food.  The  surplus  hides  are  reserved  for  market.  They  are 
pepared  by  the  squaws,  who,  curious  to  say,  will  not  touch  a 
bear-skm  till  the  age  of  maternity  has  passed;  and  they  prefer 
the  spoils  of  the  cow,  as  being  softer  than  those  of  the  liull.  The 
skin,  after  being  trimmed  with  an  iron  or  bone  scraper — this  is 
not  done  in  the  case  of  the  "parfl(^che,"  or  thick  sole-leather- 
and  softened  with  brain  or  marrow,  is  worked  till    ' 


pliable 


--   - -..,—   — .^^^  ...^  thoroughly 

^  le  with  the  hands.  The  fumigation,  which  gives  the  finish- 
ing touch,  is  confined  to  buckskins  intended  for  garments.  When 
the  hair  is  removed,  the  hides  supply  the  place  of  canvas,  which 
tlaey  resemble  in  wliitcness  and  facility  of  folding.  Dressed  wdth 
the  hair,  they  are  used,  as  their  name  denotes,  for  clothing  •  they 
serve  also  for  rugs  and  bedding.  In  the  prairies,  the  price  ran^res 
from  $1  to  $1  50  in  kind;  in  the  Eastern  States,  from  !^5  to  $10 
The  fancy  specimens,  painted  inside,  decorated  with  "eyes  and 
otherwise  adorned  with  split  porcupine  quills  dyed  a  "-ambo^c- 
j-ellow,  fetch  from  $8  to  $35.  A  "buffalo"  (subamn  robe)  was 
showii  to  me,  painted  with  curious  figures,  which,  according  to 
ray  Canadian  informant,  were  a  kind  of  hieroglyph  or  aide-m^- 
moive,  even  ruder  than  the  Mexican  iiicture-writinfr. 

The  Indian'-  generally  hunt  the  buffalo  with  arrows.    They  arc 
so  expert  m  riding  that  they  will,  at  full  sj-eed,  draw  the  missile 
li-om  the  victim  s  Hank  before  it  falls.    I  have  met  but  one  officer, 
Captain  Ueth,  of  the  10th  Regiment,  who  ever  acquired  the  art. 
ihe  Indian  hog-spear  has  been  used  to  advantage.     Our  i)rede- 
ccssors  in  Eastern  concjuest  have  killed  with  it  the  tiger  and  nyl- 
gau ;  there  is,  tliercfor(>,  no  reason  why  it  might  not  be  efiicicntlv 
applied  to  the  bufiiilo.    Like  the  Iloa  CafiTre,  the  bison  is  dull  sur- 
ly,  and  stunid.  as  well  as  timid  and  wary  ;  it  reciuires  hard  riding, 
with  the  chance  of  a  collar-bone  broken  by  the  horse  fallin<r  into 
a  praine-dog  s  liome;  and  when  headed  or  tired  an  old  male  rare- 
ly faiLs  to  charge. 

The  flies  chasing  away  the  musquctocs-cvcn  m  Aurora  routs 
the  lingering  shades  of  night-having  sounded  our  rcvcill^e  at 
Cotton-wood  Station,  we  i)roceeded  by  means  of  an  "eye-onencr  " 
nr.'i  ,7«"  the  abstemious  judge  could  not  decline,  and  the  u.so 
of  the  "skillet,"  to  prepare  for  a  breakfast  composed  of  various 
abominations  especially  cakes  of  flour  and  grcaie,  niola.ssos  and 
dirt,  disposed  in  pretty  equal  parts.  After  pavini  the  usual  50 
centswo  started  In  (he  high  wind  and  dust,\vftii  I  h  .avy    t  >  m 

iJatte,  which  hero  spreod  out  in  broad  bas  ns  and  la-'oo  i-^  im. 
turesquey  garnishe,f  with  broad-h.fod  dock  amTbX    .S" 
flags  and  wuter-rushcs,  m  which,  however,  we  saw  nothing  but 


Chap.  I. 


THE  MODEL  VERANDA.-HALF-WAY  HOUSE. 


53 
traces  of  Monsieur  MariniEyouin.     On  our  Ipfl-  wnc  o  i-        r     i 

wall  of  the  rock  behind  them,  with  smooth  flat  firp^  fv^r.1;      Ii^ 
river,  toward  which  they  slope  at  the  nTturallg  e  o^^^^^^^ 
land  around,  dry  and  sandy,  bore  no  traces  of  rain    a  hth  Jn  1 
blew,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  78°  (R),  whkh  wnf  bv  ^ 
means  uncomfortably  warm.    Passing  JunctionS^useRanc^fancI 
^ioTllTiF^^rf^^^^^^^^  ^°*^-^«  laalted  for  "dbn  r," 

;ar  to  the  South,  especially  Florida^wo  Cts^connec?e  Ay  ^rlt 

nnl'' Tw5*^"^^  ''''  ''  ^^«  b-^  and  coS  of" 

tho  W  Sn  ^^""^'^''-^fV^^^^^^^o  receives  from  the  proprietors  of 

An  excellent  train  of  mules  carried  us  alon.^  a  ^month  r.  n/i  . 
sircptantuis  the  milk-weed,  with  its  small  white  blossoms  th^ 
elicited  invidious  comparisons  from  ftri\4n'vT™S,„,  ^f^F 

CLJ:,  S'j  ,1  ^""■■™^  House":"  oir"o"i;!,^,s"ikfls  '^ 

"stanclinrr  ,1,.ini-<..  "    rpi     1  -^  y  '^^^i  '^"^^  therefore  insisted  upon 
tlie  eonlcnts  of  tl,o  store  so„»Xt    I™   '^S  rshrirmsV 

ta  yoar-s  artemisia  'Tliis  liidcoiij;;";;,'  Xl   is  "    vt'^^^ 
r;;;rS:o7:S'  ™""^^  °^"'"  SierraWada,,.i,.";™;uin 
Tlio  arteniisia,  alisintlio,  or  wild  sago  dilTcrs  much  from  tbo  m„. 
acea  concerning  winch  the  Salornitan  school  rhymed  °  ^ 

"Cur  ni,.ri«tiir  homo  tiii  Salvia  crcseit  In  Itorto." 

Vet  it  (Ills  the  air  with  a  smell  that  caricatures  the  odor  of  the 


54 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS, 


Chap.  I. 


garden-plant,  causing  the  traveler  to  look  round  in  astonishment; 
and  when  used  for  cooking  it  taints  the  food  with  a  taste  between 
camphor  and  turpentine.  It  is  of  two  kinds.  The  smaller  or 
white  species  {A.  filifoUa)  rarely  grows  higher  than  a  foot.  Its 
fetor  is  less  rank,  and  at  times  of  scarcity  it  forms  tolerable  fod- 
der for  animals.  The  Western  men  have  made  of  it,  as  of  the 
"  red  root,"  a  tea,  which  must  be  pronounced  decidedly  inferior 
to  corn  coffee.    The  Indians  smoke  it,  but  they  are  not  particular 

about  what  they  inhale:  like  that  perverse  p n  of  Ludlow, 

who  smoked  the  bell-ropes  rather  than  not  smoke  at  all,  or  like 
school-boys  who  break  themselves  in  upon  ratan,  they  use  even 
the  larger  sage  as  well  as  a  variety  of  other  graveolent  growths. 
The  second  kind  {A.  tridentata)  is  to  the  family  of  shrubs  what 
the  prairie  cedar  is  to  the  trees — a  gnarled,  crooked,  rough-barked 
deformity.  _  It  has  no  pretensions  to  beauty  except  in  earliest 
youth,  and  in  the  dewy  hours  when  the  breeze  turns  up  its  leaves 
that  glitter  like  silver  in  the  sun ;  and  its  constant  presence  in 
the  worst  and  most  desert  tracts  teaches  one  to  regard  it,  like  the 
mangrove  in  Asia  and  Africa,  with  aversion.     In  size  it  greatly 
varies;  in  some  islaccs  it  is  but  little  larger  than  the  white  spe- 
cies ;  near  the  Eed  Buttcs  its  woody  stem  often  attains  the  height 
of  a  man  and  the  thickness  of  his  waist.    As  many  as  fifty  rings 
have  been  counted  i:;  me  wood,  which,  according  to  the  normal 
calculation,  would  bring  its  age  up  to  half  a  century.     After  its 
first  year,  stock  will  cat  it  only  when  threatened  with  starvation. 
It  has,  however,  its  use ;  the  traveler,  despite  its  ugliness,  hails  the 
appearance  of  its  stiff,  wiry  clumps  at  the  evening  halt :  it  is  easi- 
ly uprooted,  and  bv  virtue  of  its  essential  oil  it  makes  a  hot  and 
lasting  fire,  and  ashes  over.     According  to  Colonel  Fremont,  "  it 
has  a  small  fly  accompanying  it  through  every  change  of  eleva- 
tion and  latitude."    The  same  eminent  authority  also  suggests 
that  file  respiration  of  air  so  highly  impregnated  with  aromatic 
plants  may  partly  account  for  the  favorable  efiect  of  the  climate 
upon  consumption. 

At  5  P.M.,  as  the  heat  began  to  mitigate,  we  arrived  at  Alkali 
Lake  fetation,  and  discovered  some  "exiles  from  Erin,"  who  sun- 
phed  us  with  antelope  meat  and  the  unusual  luxury  of  ice  taken 
from  the  PJattc  ^\^c  attempted  to  bathe  in  the  river,  but  found 
It  flowing  liquid  mirc.  The  Alkali  Lake  was  out  of  sight-  tho 
driver,  however  consoled  me  with  tlio  reflection  that  I  sli'ould 
^mpse"  alkah  lakes  till  I  was  sick  of  them 
Yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  been  in  a  line  of  Indian  "re- 
moves     Iho  wild  people  were  shifting  their  quarters  for  grass; 

Tn   hV  ^?°"'r'  "  '"^'^  ''\^^^\  '^''^  ^^'"  '''^  «°"^«  winter  abode 
on  the  banks  of  a  stream  which  supplies  fuel  and  where  they  can 

find  meat,  so  that  with  warmtli  and  food,  song  .:  nd  chat-thcv 

arc  fond  of  talking  nonsense  as  African  ncgroer-and  smoke  uaS 

sleep,  they  can  while  away  tho  dull  and  dreary  winter.     B^ilro 


Chap,  I. 


THE  RED  MEN. 


55 


describing  the  scene,  which  might  almost  serve  for  a  picture  of 
Bedoum  or  gipsy  hfe— so  simUar  are  the  customs  of  all  savaees 
—I  have  somethmg  to  say  about  the  Eed  Man. 
_  This  is  a  country  of  misnomers.  America  should  not,  accord- 
ing to  the  school-books,  have  been  named  America,  consequentlv 
the  Americans  should  not  be  called  Americans.  A  teoffrlohical 
error,  pardonable  m  the  fifteenth  century,  dubbed  the  old  tenants 
of  these  lands  Indians,*  but  why  we  should  still  call  them  the  Eed 
Men  can  not  be  conceived.  I  have  now  seen  them  in  the  north 
south,  east,  and  west  of  the  United  States,  yet  never,  except  under 
the  influence  of  ochre  or  vermilion,  have  I  seen  the  Eed  Man  red. 
ihe  real  color  of  the  skm,  as  may  be  seen  under  the  leggins,  va- 
nes  from  a  dead  pale  olive  to  a  dark  dingy  brown.     The  parts 

ST  ^V^^  ^""'^  ^""^  '^'S^%  burnished,  as  in  a  Tartar  or  an 
Attghan  after  a  summer  march.  Between  the  two  extremes  above 
indicated  there  are,  however,  a  thousand  shades  of  color,  and  often 
the  skm  has  been  so  long  grimed  in  with  pigment,  grease,  and 
dir  that  It  suggests  a  brick-dust  tinge  which  a  little  soap  or'soda 
would  readily  remove  Indeed,  the  color  and  the  complexion, 
combined  with  the  lank  hair,  scant  beard,  and  similar  peculiari! 
ties,  renders  it  impossible  to  see  this  people  for  the  first  time 
without  the  strongest  impression  that  they  are  of  that  Turanian 
breed  which  in  prehistoric  ages  passed  down  from  above  the 
Himalayas  as  far  south  as  Cape  Comorin. 

Another  mistake  touching  the  Indian  is  the  present  opinion 
concerning  him  and  his  ancestors.  He  now  suH'crs  in  public  cs- 
teem  from  the  reaction  following  the  high-flown  descriptions  of 
Loopcr  and  the  herd  of  minor  romancers  who  could  not  but  make 
their  heroes  heroes.  Moreover,  men  acquainted  only  with  the  de- 
generate Pawnees  or  Diggers  extend  their  evil  opinions  to  the 
noble  tribes  now  extinct— the  Iroquois  and  Algonquhis  for  in- 
stance, whose  remnants,  the  Delawares  and  Ojibwas,  iustifv  the 
high  .opinion  of  the  first  settlers.  The  exploits  of  King  Ailin 
I  ontiac  Guristcr  Scgo  Tocumsch,  Keokuk,  f  atan,  Captain  J.  Brant! 
Black  Hawk,  Eed  Jacket,  Osceola,  and  Billy  Bowlegs,  are  rapidly 
fading  away  from  memory,  while  the  failures  of  such  men  as  Lit- 
tle 1  huntler  and  those  like  him,  stand  prominently  forth  in  mod- 
ern days.  Besides  the  injustice  to  the  manes  and  memories  of 
the  dead,  this  depreciation  of  the  Indians  tends  to  serious  practi- 
cal evils.  Ihose  who  see  tlie  savage  lying  drunk  about  stations, 
or  eaten  up  with  disease,  expect  to  beat  him  out  of  the  field  bv 
merely  showing  their  faces;  they  fail,  and  pay  the  penalty  with 

*  Columlms  nnJ  Vcspucins  !,nth  dio.l  in  the  conviction  tl.nt  tlicv  lintl  only  (lis. 
covered  portmnH  „f  Ania.     Indco.l,  ns  lnt,»  «s  ir.;j.%  t|.,o  nstronnincr  S cl. "net  Lin 
t.uno.1  tiu,t  Mexico  wan  tl.o  Quinsui  of  Marco  Polo.     The  enrlv  nnvh^  Zm 

tl.e  d,onK,ncs  of  the  New  World  "Indians,-  hdievinK  that  I  icyinri  E    he  t^^ 
cm  portion  of  ..India."  a  term  tl,en  applied  to  the  cxtrenu  y  o/  Sm  1  A  k 

Slionl  iin^LSr  ""'  '''"'""^'^  •»'"''^^'  '"^  "'""-  ^'^^'-"^  Indies  to  ..;?; 


56 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


Amerilr^"^''  ^^^"*  ^^'"^^  '"'^''"''^  ^^^""^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^°'^''  P^^^«  of 

nn,^'";  !?Ta-  ""^  ^^'^  ''^"'''°°  presented  an  interesting  sight-an 
animated  shifting  scene  of  bucks  and  braves,  squaws  and  pap- 
pooses,  ponies  dwarfed  by  bad  breeding  and  hard  living,  dogs  and 
puppies  strugg  ing  over  the  plains  westward.    In  front  singly  or 
in  pairs,  rode  the  men,  not  gracefully,  not  according  to  the  rules 
of  Mexican  manege,  but  like  the  Abyssinian  eunuch,  as  If  born 
upon  and  bred  to  become  part  of  the  animal.    Some  went  bare- 
backed ;  others  rode,  like  the  ancient  chiefs  of  the  Western  Islands 
upon  a  saddle-tree,  stirrupless,  or  provided  with  hollow  blocks  of 
wood :  in  some  cases  the  saddle  was  adorned  with  bead  hanmuffs 
and  in  all  a  piece  of  buffalo  hide  with  the  hair  on  was  attached 
beneath  to  prevent  chafing.     The  cruel  ring-bit  of  the  Arabs  is 
not  unknown.     A  few  had  iron  curbs,  probably  stolen.    For  the 
most  part  they  managed  their  nags  with  a  hide  tkong  lashed  round 
thelower  jaw  and  attached  to  the  neck.     A  whip,  of  various  sizes 


Dca\CTS  slvm  in  two  queues,  or  pig-tails,  reacliinc;  to  llie  breast- 
from  the  poll  and  distinct  from  tbe^remainder  of  the  hair  stream: 
cd  the  se.|  p.|oek.    This  style  of  hair-dressing,  doubt  es  akls™, 

Cft  ri  s  TtjFT  "■»'  "P^'?'"^  S  dep>.s^io'„  whi  h 
ouaraetenzcs  He  Norlji  American  Indians  as  a  race  of  "Hit. 

head.,"  and  which,  probably  being  considered  a  beauty,  led  to  tho 
artn^cial  deformities  of  the  Peruvian  and  the  Aztec,  ^riie  partine 
m  men  as  well  as  in  women,  was  generally  colored  with  vor2 
.on,  and  pla  es  of  brass  or  tin,  with  Wcled  edges,  van  i„g™iSze 
Tlie'seni       "f  '"  ^'f''  r™'"'  ^'''  i"«rlcd  fnti  tlie^S  liafr 


Chap.  I. 


PKAIEIE-INDIAN  DRESS. 


67 


laces  of  plates  like  those  worn  in  the  hair.     The  body  dress  w"s 
a  tight-sleeved  waistcoat  of  dark  drugget,  over  an  American  cot- 
ton shirt ;  others  wore  tattered  flannels,  and  the  middle  was  wrap- 
ped round  with  a  common  blanket,  presented  by  the  government 
agent— scarlet  and  blue  being  the  colors  preferred  white  rare  •  a 
better  stuff  is  the  coarse  broadcloth  manufactured  for  the^  Indian 
market  m  the  United  States.     The  leggins  were  a  pair  of  panta- 
oons  without  the  body  part-in  their  palmy  days  the  Indians 
laughed  to  scorn  their  future  conquerors  for  tightening  tbe  hips 
so  as  to  impede  activity--loopcd  up  at  both  haunches  with  straps 
to  a  leathern  girdle,  and  all  wore  the  brecch-cl»th,  which  is  the 
common  Hindoo  languti  or  T-bandage.     The  cut  of  the  leggins  is 
a.  parallelogram,  a  little  too  short  and  much  too  broad  for  the 
limb ;  It  IS  sewn  so  as  to  fit  tight,  and  the  projecting  edges,  for 
which   he  light-colored  list  or  bordering  is  usually  preserved  an- 
swers the  eftect  of  a  military  stripe.     When  buckskm  leggins  are 
made  the  outside  edges  are  fringed,  producing  that  feathered  ap- 
peaiance  which  distinguishes  m  our  pictures  the  nether  limbs  of 
the  Indian  brave.     The  garb  ends  with  moccasins,*  the  American 
brogues,  which  are  made  in  two  ways.     The  simplest  are  of  one 
piece,  a  cy under  of  skin  cut  from  above  and  below  the  hock  of 
some  large  animal— moose,  elk,  or  buffalo— and  drawn  on  before 
shrinking  the  joint  forming  the  heel,  while  the  smaller  end  is 
sewn  together  for  a  toe.     This  rough  contrivance  is  little  used  but 
as  a  pis  allcr.     The  other  kind  is  made  of  tanned  hide  in  two 
picccs-a  sole  and  an  upper  leather,  sewn  togetber  at  the  junction : 
the  last  IS  a  bit  of  board  rounded  off  at  the  end.    They  are  open 
over  thr  instep,  where  also  they  can  be  laced  or  tied,  and  they  fit 
as  closely  as  the  Egyptian  mizz  or  under-slipper,  which  they  great- 
ly resemble.     They  are  worn  by  officers  in  the  Far  West  as  tbc 
expatriated  Anglo-Indian  adopts  the  "  Juti."    The  greatest  incon- 
venience to  the  novice  is  the  want  of  heel ;  moreover,  they  render 
the  feet  uncomfortably  tender,  and,  unless  soled  witli  parflC'chc  or 
thick  leather,  they  are  scant  defense  against  stony  ground ;  durina 
dry  weather  they  will  last  fairly,  but  tl.ey  become,  after  a  sin^d? 
wetting  even  worse  than  Bombay-made  Wellingtons.    A  common 
pair  will  cost  ;:,2 ;  when  handsomely  embroidered  with  bead-work 
by  the  squaws  they  rise  to  $15. 

The  braves  were  armed  with  small  tomahawks  or  iron  hatchets 
winch  they  carried  with  the  powder-horn,  in  the  belt,  on  the  ri<rht 
side,  M'lnlc  the  long  tobacco-pouch  of  antelope  skin  hung  by  the 
leit  Over  their  shoulders  were  leather  targes,  bows  and  arrows, 
and  some  few  had  rifles ;  both  weapons  were  defended  from  damp 
in  deer-skin  cases  and  quivers  with  the  inevitable  bead-work  and 
ilic  fringes  which  cvciy  savage  seems  to  love.  These  articles 
n^mindecl  me  of  those  in  use  among  the  Bedouins  of  El  Iloiaz 
Ilicir  nags  were  lean  and  ungroomed;  they  treat  tlicm  as  cruelly 
•  This  Algonquin  word  is  written  moccawn  or  mocasin,  nnd  is  pronounced  woksin. 


i 


U^M, 


58 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


as  do  the  Somal;  yet  nothing-short  of  whisky-can  persuade 

teed     iTisTfS  ?^^M^f.^^^  -f  N^-d.  to  parLith  aSrite 
steed.    It  IS  his  all  in  all,  his  means  of  livelihood,  his  profession 
his  pride;  he  is  an  excellent  judge  of  horse-flesh,  though  ignoS 
the  mule  and  ass;  and  if  he  offers  an  animal  for  which  he  hJ 
'once  refused  to  trade,  it  is  for  the  reason  tha?  an  OrSal  takel 
•     £7^:^?J^^^^l^slave-itii.sbcerne  useless.    Like  the  ibSk 
he  considers  it  dishonoral.o  t.  .oil  a  horse;  he  gives  it  to  you 
expecting  a  large prese.r,  and  if  disappointed  he  goes  away  grum! 
blmg  that  you  have  "swallowed"  his  property.''  HeTfond Tf 
short  races-spurts  they  are  called-as  we  ha^d  occasion  to  see  • 
?=?'^f  T   i!?^  novel  nor  interesting  in  the  American  as  there 
IS  in  the  Arabian  hippology ;  the  former  learned  aU  its  arts  from 
Europeans,  the  latter  taught  them. 
Behind  the  warriors  and  braves  follovid  the  baggage  of  the 

W  f ;    ^^'  ^°^°'  ?°hiP  ^^°^^^^  °f  f^'^r  ^«d  five,  had  been 
lashed  to  pads  or  pack-saddles,  girthed  tight  to  the  pones'  backs 

ll^^f  ntcf'^V''''''^  V^  ^^°°S  *^^«  grSund  like  th^ 
snatts  ot  a  truck;  the  sign  easily  denotes  the  course  of  travel 
The  wolf-hke  dogs  were  also  harnessed  in  the  same  way    more 
lupine  than  canine,  they  are  ready  when  hungry  to  aSman  or 
mule;  an.:l  sharp-nosed  and  prick-cared,  they  not  rhttleTesom 
ble  the  Indian  pariah  dog.    *heir  equipments,  howevew^^^^^^^ 
course  on  a  diminutive  scale ;  a  little  pad  girthed  round  tlo  bnr? 

?lT\%^l?f'§^^*^  *?  ^'^^P  ''  "^  AIS  ed  them  to  drS 

two  short  hght  odge  poles  tied  togetfier  at  the  smaller  extremU^ 

One  carried  only  a  hawk  on  its  back-yet  falconry  hrn'^r^f 

be  leve,  been  practiced  by  the  Indian.  "^  Behind  tJeTon^S  the 

poles  were  connected  by  cross-sticks,  upon  which  were  hshed  the 

Atr'}  '^'  ^f  ^^!^,^°^««>  ^"d  othir  bulkier  S  s     Some 

ad  strong  frames  of  withes  or  willow  basket-work,  two  braSs 

being  bent  into  an  oval,  garnished  below  with  a  ne  -^lafof  hide 

thongs  for  a  seat,  covered  with  a  light  wicker  canopy  and  oneii 

be  a  rough  conveyance;  the  elasticity  of  thrpolcs  howSf  n 
viates  much  of  that  inconvenience      A  vnrt^ .     •'  ^^^"^^^^  ^^^^c- 
kledasalastyear'swalnut^ISSi^^^^^^^ 
was  carried,  probably  by  his  great-grandsons,  narud^sldr  The 
vehicle  was  composed  of  two  pliable  poles  about  ton  fittJ 
separated  by.three  cross-bars  twLty  ineCSr  so  anart    ^u^^l 
had  been  secured  to  the  foremost  and  hindermo^' '  and  un   ?^  ^ 
centre-bit  lay  Senex  secured  against  faU 3  oT'^Tn  fL«        .t^ 

u  witS;  "^^^^^^  ^:^:i::!^c^'^ 


Chap.  I. 


THE  SQUAWS. 


59 


While  the  rich  squaws  rode,  the  poorer  followed  their  pack- 
horses  on  foot,  eying  the  more  fortunate  as  the  mercer's  wife  re- 
gards what  she  terms  the  "carriage  lady."     The  women's  dress 
not  £),  little  resembles  their  lords' ;  the  unaccustomed  eye  often 
hesitates  between  the  sexes.     In  the  fair,  however,  the  waistcoat 
is  absent,  the  wide-sleeved  shift  extends  below  the  knees,  and  the 
leggms  are  of  somewhat  different  cut.    All  wore  coarse  shawls  or 
white,  blue,  and  scarlet  cloth-blankets  round  their  bodies.    Upon 
the  Upper  Platte  we  afterward  saw  them  dressed  in  cotton  gowns 
after  a  semi-civilized  fashion,  and  with  bowie-knives  by  their 
sides.    The  grandmothers  were  fearful  to  look  upon— horrid  ex- 
crescences of  nature,  teaching  proud  man  a  lesson  of  humilitv 
and  a  memento  of  his  neighbor  in  creation,  the  "  humble  ape"— 
It  IS  only  civilization  that  can  save  the  aged  woman  from  resem- 
blmg  the  gorilla.    The  middle-aged  matrons  were  homely  bodies 
broad  and  squat  like  the  African  dame  after  she  has  become  mhe 
de/amille;  their  hands  and  feet  were  notably  larger  from  work 
than  those  of  the  men,  and  the  burdens  upon  their  backs  caused 
them  to  stoop  painfully.    The  young  squaws— pity  it  is  that  all 
our  household  Indian  words,  pappoose,  for  instance,  tomahawk 
wigwam,  and  powwow,  should  have  been  naturalized  out  of  the 
Abenaki  and  other  harsh  dialects  of  New  England— deserved  a 
more  euphonious  appellation.    The  belle  savage  of  the  party  had 
large  and  languishing  eyes  and  dentists'  teeth  that  glittered,  with 
sleek,  long  black  hair  like  the  ears  of  a  Blenheim  spaniel,  justi- 
fying a  natural  instinct  to  stroke  or  pat  it,  drawn  straight  over  a 
low,  broad.  Quadroon-like  brow.    Her  figure  had  none  of  the  fra- 
gility which  distinguishes  the  higher  race,  who  are  apparently 
too  clohcate  for  human  nature's  daily  food  —  porcelain  in  fact 
when  pottery  is  wanted;  nor  had  she  the  square  corpulency 
which  appears  m  the  negro  woman  after  marriage.    Her  ears  and 
neck  wcxc  laden  with  tinsel  ornaments,  brass-wire  rings  adorned 
her  wrists  and  fine  arms,  a  bead-work  sash  encircled  her  waist 
and  scarlet  leggins,  fringed  and  tasseled,  ended  in  equally  costlv 
moccasins     When  addressed  by  the  driver  in  some  terms  to  me 
unintelligible,  she  replied  with  a  soft  clear  laugh— the  principal 
charm  of  the  Indian,  as  of  the  smooth-throated  African  woman— 
ai  the  same  time  showing  him  the  palm  of  her  right  hand  as 
though  It  had  been  a  looking-glass.     The  gesture  would  have 
had  a  pculiar  significance  in  Sindh ;  here,  however,  I  afterward 
learned,  it  simply  conveys  a  refusal.    The  maidens  of  the  tribe 
or  those  under  six,  we7  o  charming  little  creatures,  with  the  wild- 
est and  most  piquant  expression,  and  the  prettiest  doll-like  fea- 
tures imaginable ;  the  young  coauottes  already  conferred  their 
smiles  as  if  they  liad  been  of  any  earthly  value.     The  boys  once 
more  reminded  me  of  the  East;  tliov  had  black  beady  eyes  like 
snakes,  and  the  wide  mouths  of  young  caymans,     i'heir  'only 
dress,  when  they  were  not  in  "birth-day  suit,"  was  the  Indian 


60 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


onguti.     None  of  the  braves  carried  scalps,  finger- bones   or 

died  nfstl'f '.^'''  ""^''^  rr  ^^^''  '^'"^^  ^^^^'  on  saw  ban' 
Inwpf ,  !  f  ^'''^^'''  '"'*'  r^  ^^^  ^"3^  ^^n  iost  a  limb.    They  fol- 
ravelin'  [?  ""'""^  '"  T^  ''  Pf^""^  ^"^^  ^^^  ^^^^er  part  of  our 
.luta  o^n    T^^^  ''"^  ejaculating  "How!  How!"  the  normal 
salutation.     It  is  supposed  to  mean  "good,"  and  the  Western 
man,  when  be  drinks  to  your  health,  says  "Here  how!"  and  p^ 
pects  a  return  in  kind. 'The  politenes^s  of  thTsavT^s '3id  not 
brow  us  off  our  guard ;  the  Dakotah  of  these  regiols'are  cxS 
and  danng  kleptomaniacs;  they  only  laughed,  iTowever  a  1  ttle 
knowingly  as  we  raised  the  rear  curtain,  and  they  lift  'us  after 
begging  pertmaciously-bakhshish  is  an  institution  here  a    on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile-for  tobacco,  gunpowder,  ball,  copper  caps 

\T\  f  '"".i  ""^f  '^°*-  ?^  ^°'^^"'  ^^^"-Tt  the  pre  ty  party 
looked,  methought,  somewhat  scowlingly,  but  one  can  haKlh  ex! 
pect  a  smiling  countenance  from  the  himan  biped  trudgin^  ten 
or  twenty  miles  under  a  load  fit  for  a  mule.  A  great  coirtr'st 
with  these  Indians  was  a  train  of  "  Pike's  Peakers,"  who  to  id  4 

un'^he^S  V^l  fpf^f '^ """'  '°"*''  ""'^^  ""  Sood  but  fidgety  train, 
up  tne  Uark  Va  ley  where  musquetoes  and  sultry  heat  combined 

bo'ut7l5  P  lf":V''''''fS  '"'  ^^^•"S  '^'  wVwe  a  riV  d 
freauented  W  fh?  ^]^T^  ^f  ^'"',f ' ""  ^''^^^  ^''^^^  ^ater  much 
irequented  by  the  " lightning-bug"  and  the  big-eyed  "Devil's 
darning-needfe,"*  where  we  found  whisky  and  its  usual  accom- 
paniment, soldiers.    The  host  related  an  eVent  which  he  said  h^d 
taken  place  but  a  few  days  before.     An  old  mountaineS  who 
had  married  two  squaws,  was  drinking  with  certain  Cheyenneg 
a  tribe  famous  for  ferocity  and  hostility  to  the  whites.    Sdis 
course  turning  upon  tor,ics  stoical,  he  was  asked  by  his  wild  boon 
companions  i   he  feared  death.      The  answer  was  charrcterisSc 
You  may  kill  me  if  you  like !"    Equally  characteristirwas  thH'^ 
acknowledgment;   they  hacked  him  to^ pieces,  a    1  tCw  Z 
corose  under  a  bank.    In  these  regions  thi  opposite  races  rT4rd 
each  other  as  wild  beasts;  the  white  will  shiit  an  Man  nl  he 

Zl     '''l  nr*'i-     ^^'  ■'''P''''  *^  g^  ""der  whenever  Se  '' all 
fired  rcd-belhed  varmints"-I  speak,  oh  reader,  Occidcntallv 
get  the  upper  hand,  and  vice  versl  '  ^^^^'^cntaiJy— 

The  Platte  Elver  divides  at  N.  lat.  40°  05'  0*^"  nn,!  \\t  ^ 
solce  n,n,«  Padouca,  from  tbo  Pawncc'naSi'.tl.""::;';;',,™; 


ClIAP.  I. 


THE  PLATTE  RIVER.— AURORA. 


61 


the  Spaniards  term  Comanclies  *  averages  600  yards  about  100 
less  than  its  rival  in  breadth,  and,  according  to  the  Srt  people 
affords  the  best  drinking.  Hunters  often^ford  the  river  W^ 
Lower  Crossing,  twenty-eight  miles  above  the  bifurcation.  Those 
with  heavily-loaded  wagons  prefer  this  route,  as  by  it  they  avoid 
the  deep  loose  sands  on  the  way  to  the  Upper  Crossing  The 
mail-coach  must  endure  the  four  miles  of  difficulty,  as  the  road 
*°  Pf'iy^^r  City  branches  off  from  the  western  ford 

At  10  P.M.,  having  "caught  up"  the  mules,  we  left  Diamond 
Springs,  and  ran  along  the  shallow  river  which  lay  like  a  thb 
sheet  ox  shimmer  broken  by  clumps  and  islets  that  simulated,  un 
der   he   mperfect  light  of  the  stars,  houses  and  towns,  hulks 'and 
ships,  wharves  and  esplanades.     On  the  banks  large  bare  spots 
iXeJ^tf'  glistened  through  the  glooms;  the  land  becWe 
cuts  S  flT  ^'^°'^  l'^*'  Sroaned;  and  the  descents,  water- 
cuts,  and  angles  were  so  abrupt  ihat  holding  on  constituted  a  fair 
gymnastic  exercise     The  air  was  clear  and  fine.    My  compr 
ons  s,iored  whik  I  remained  awake  enjoying  a  lovely  aXra 
ma,  Epicurean-like,  reserving  sleep  for  the  Sybaritic  apparatus 

She'TW^r^  '"  ''Pf>  ^^^'^^^^  at  the^randlSeS 
of  the  Upper  Crossing  of  La  Grande  Platte. 

meil^t7Znn\h^'li'^^'  ^ V^*^  mail-wagon.  I  could  not  but 
mtditate  upon  the  difference  between  travel  in  the  pure  prairie 
air,  despite  an  occasional  "chill,"  and  the  perspirin^  miser  es  of 
an  East  Indian  dawk,  or  of  a  trudge  in  th?  miLmatic  S  pesti- 
lential  regions  of  Central  Africa.  Much  may  be  endured  when 
"ot^lxce^Tgs'T"'  '^'  ^^°^'''  temperatur^  in  the  shlde  does 

Boreal  aurora  glared  brighter  i^i^  tSS;Jlr^^^'''^ 
long  streamers  were  intercepted  and  mysteriously  confused  bv  a 
massive  stratum  of  dark  cloud,  through^vhose  Z^rrow  rSs  and 
jagged  chinks  thp  splendors  poured  in^ods  of  magiclr  Near 

tadv  iS  l^  ''"''7''  "^  ^1^''^^^"^  -^^'"-^  broadl,and  of  calm' 
Bteady  light,  supporting  a  tender  rose-color,  which  flushed  to  crim 
son  as  It  scaled  the  upper  firmament.    The  mobility  of  the  snec- 
hi W  ^^  ff'\'\'r^-    Tl^o  streamer?  eS  sLt  oufo 
tm  thev  S  talf  length;  now  they  flared  up,  widening 

till  they  filled  the  space  between  Lucifer  rising  in  the  cast  and 
Aries  setting  in  the  west;  then  they  narrowed" to  te  size  of  a 
span ;  now  they  stood  like  a  red  arch  with  steadfast  legs  and  os^ 
cillating  summit;  then,  broadening  at  the  apex,  they  ^parentTy 

thcv  havo  I'ii<l  wKto  mnn,'   ;  ,,   r°/"'="  bniiinlv.a  vtstwiud  l.y  New  Mexico,  wlicro 


62 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


revolved  with  immense  rapidity ;  at  times  the  stars  shone  undim- 
med  through  the  veil  of  light,  then  they  were  immersed  in  its  ex- 
ceedmg  brilliancy.  After  a  full  hour  of  changeful  beauty,  paling 
in  one  place  and  blushing  in  another,  the  northern  lights  slowly 
ladea  away  with  a  blush  which  made  the  sunrise  look  colder  than 
Its  wont.  It  is  no  wonder  that  the  imaginative  Indian,  looking 
with  love  upon  these  beauties,  connects  them  with  the  ghosts  of 
his  ancestors. 

Cramped  with  cold  and  inaction— at  6  A.M.  the  thermometer 
showed  only  56°  F.  in  the  sun— hungry,  thirsty,  and  by  no  means 
T  \      mildest  of  humors,  we  hear  with  a  gush  of  joy,  at  3  15 
A.M.,  the  savage  Yep  I  yep !  yep !  with  which  the  driver  an- 
nounces our  approach.    The  plank  lodgings  soon  appear-  we 
spring  out  of  the  ambulance ;  a  qualm  comes  over  us ;  all  is  dark 
and  silent  as  the  gi-ave ;  nothing  is  prepared  for  us ;  the  wretches 
are  all  asleep.    A  heavy  kick  opens  the  door  of  the  soon-found 
restaurant,  when  a  pheesy,  drowsy  voice  from  an  inner  room  asks 
us,  in  Orcrman-English— so  strong  is  the  causality,  the  crapulous- 
ness  of  wliy  and  wherefore  in  this  "divided,  erudite  race"— "And 
how  ze  komcn  in  ?"    Without  attempting  to  gratify  his  intellect- 
ual cravings,  wo  ordered  him  out  of  bed,  and  began  to  talk  of 
supper,  refreshment,  and  repose.    But  the  "critter"  had  waxed 
surly  after  securing  for  himself  a  compound  epithet,  of  which 
hunds—    IS  the  first  syllable,  and  his  every  negative  answer 
concluded  with  a  faint  murmur  of  "  petampt."    I  tried  to  got  his 
bed  for  Mrs.  Dana,  who  was  suffering  severely  from  fatigue.    IIo 
grumbled  out  that  his  "lady  and  bcbb(j"  were  occupying  it     At 
length  I  hit  upon  the  plan  of  i)lacing  the  cushions  and  cloaks 
upon  the  table,  when  the  door  opened  for  a  second  dog-1'euton 
who  objected  to  that  article  of  furniture  being  used  otherwise  than 
lor  his  morning  meal.     AWales,  and  mastering  with  pain  our  de- 
sire to  give  these  villaia  "sausage-caters"  "particular  fits,"  we  sat 
clown,  stared  at  the  fire,  and  awaited  the  vile  food,     l-'or  a  break- 
fast cooked  in  the  usual  manner,  coflee  boiled  down  to  tannin 
(ever  the  first  operation),  meat  subjected  to  half  sod,  half  stew 
and  last  y,  bread  raised  with  sour  milk  corrected  with  s^di)  and 
so  baked  that  the  taste  of  the  flour  is  ever  prominent,  we 'paid 
these  German  rascals  75  ccntd,  a  little  dearer  than  at  the  Trois 
l^reres. 

At  the  Upner  Crossing  of  the  South  Fork  thoro  nro  nsuallv  ten- 
der adieux,  the  wenders  toward  Mormonland  bidding  farewell  to 
those  bomid  for  tho  pcrilouH  gold  regions  of  Denver  City  and 
Pikes  Peak.  If  "fresh,"  they  take  leave  of  one  anotlici- witl 
sincere  commiseration  for  one  another's  dooms,  each  dceminir  of 
course,  his  own  tho  brighter.  The  wagons  were  unloaded  ti.us 
giving  us  the  om,ortunity  of  Procuring  changes  of  raiment  and 
fresh  caps-our  feltfl  had  long  disappeared  under  the  inlluence  of 
sleeping  on  tho  perch.    By  some  means  wo  retained  our  old  am- 


Chap.  I. 


THE  "PADOUCA. 


68 


bularice,  which,  after  five  days  and  nights,  we  had  learned  to  look 
upon  as  a  home;  the  Judiciary,  however,  had  to  exchanc^e  theirs 
for  one  much  lighter  and  far  less  comfortable.  Presently  those 
bound  to  Denver  City  set  out  upon  their  journey.  Conspicuous 
among  them  was  a  fair  woman  who  had  made  her  first  appear- 
ance at  Cotton-wood  Creek— fit  place  for  the  lune  cle  melasse— 

n  i''um'''^',r'^''?^'  apparently  a  well-to-do  drover,  whom  she 
called  Tom"  and  "  husband.'^  She  had  forgotten  her  "  flxins  " 
which,  according  to  a  mischievous  and  scandalous  driver,  consist- 
ed of  a_  reticule  containing  a  '<  bishop,"  a  comb,  and  a  pomatum- 
pot,  a  pinchbeck  watch,  and  a  flask  of  "Bawmc"— not  of  Mcccah. 
iJeing  a  fine  young  person  of  Scotch  descent,  she  had,  till  dire 
suspicions  presented  themselves,  attracted  the  attentions  of  her 
telIow;travclers,  who  pronounced  her  to  bo  "  all  sorts  of  a  gal " 
liut  virtue  IS  rabid  in  these  lands,  and  the  purity  of  the  ermine 
must  not  bo  soiled.  It  was  fortunate  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mann— the 
names  were  noms  de  toya^e— that  they  left  us  so  soon.  In  a  cer- 
tain Southern  city  I  heard  of  a  high  ofiicial  who,  during  a  trip 
upon  one  of  ttie  floating  palaces  of  the  Mississippi,  had  tZ  repeat 
"dcprendi  miserum  est;"  the  fond,  frail  pair  was  summurilv  eject- 
ed with  bag  and  baggage  to  furnish  itself  with  a  down-stream 
passage  on  board  a  lumber  raft. 

Wo  crossed  the  "Padouca"  at  6  30  A.M.,  having  placed  our 
luggage  and  the  mails  for  security  in  an  ox  cart.  The  South 
Fork  13  liere  GOO  to  700  yards  broad ;  the  current  is  swift,  but  the 
deepest  water  not  cxceccling  250  feet,  the  teams  are  not  compelled 
to  cross  diagonally  The  channel  was  broken  with  sand-banks 
an.l  isle  s;  the  Ded  was  dark  and  gravelly:  the  water,  though 
dark  as  hotel  cofiec,  was  clear,  not,  as  described  by  Cat.tain  Stans- 
bury,  perfectly  onaque  with  thick  yellow  mud,"  and  the  earth- 
banks,  whicli  ris-;  to  flvo  feet,  arc  never  inundated.  The  half- 
broken  mules  ollcn  luilted,  and  seemed  inclined  to  lie  down;  a 
you  li  waded  on  the  lower  si'lo  of  the  team,  shouting  and  swino-. 
u.g  his  arms  to  keep  (hem  from  turning  their  heads  down  stream; 
the  instinct  ot  animals  to  find  an  easy  lord  ended  witli  a  f,>w  des- 
perate struggles  up  tlie  black  oo.y  mire.     Having  reloaded  on 

.n";  n?  r  '  '"'•'^'^'^  ''"^  ^"^^  ^^'^'^  ^^'  ^''"^trcd  upon  the  scene  of 
our  la  e  disappomtment,  wo  set  out  at  7  AM.  tc!  cross  the  divide 
soparatmg  the  Northern  and  Southern  l^^orks  of  the  Platte. 

Wo  ha.l  now  entered  upon  the  outskirts  of  the  American  wil- 
of  fW\n  w  if  "t ^  «""/^'''ituro  in  common  with  the  deserts 
o  the  OM  World.  In  Arabia  and  Afnoa  there  is  mniesty  in  ita 
n  onot.^ny :  those  aw  fid  wastes  so  brightly  sunlnirnished  that  tho 
.a)i  above  them  appear:*  by  contrast  black;  one  \ast  and  burninix 

loor,  variegated  only  by  tho  mirage-reek,  with  nothing  Ix^low  tho 
lirmainent  to  relieve  or  correct  tho  eye.     Here  it  is  a  brown 

''«;'.'!  wl 'IT'  '"'T'^^^y  ^^'-yi'-K  ^>»t  of  .ight,  whoHv  wanting 
socoiKl  distance,"  and  scarcely  suggesting  tho  idea  of  immense 


CA 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


fP^f 


I 


III  T  '''f^™'/.'?,^^^-t,  to  be  traveling  for  twenty  miles  over  a  con- 
vex roeless  lull-top.  The  air  beeame  sultryfwbite  clouds  Zt 
Jo4nn  l7 ' '''"  ^''f^^'^^y  ^^'-osc  the  high  south  wind,  which  at  this 
hi:r  I  7  ""  gale  between  10  A.M.  and  3  P.M.  The  ground 
bleached  where  sandv.  wns  tliinl,r  e«n+f„^^,i  \ i  .i.  ^       ..,' 


bleached  where  sandy,  wa7  thhdf  s;;'ttemrh'e;^;ancrtherrS 

withered,  and  with  coarse  and  sunburnt 


wiry  grass,  dun  and   HiiuLueu,  anci  witn  coarse  and  sunburnt 

vrtptnHnn  f     //^warf  a  oetic  vegetation  became  abundant; 
Ivfr  ft  k  1    T.i"'*  F"^^  *'!"  '''^y  °^  ''^^  S'^'' '  ^^fter  rain,  how! 
the  s']. In  n?  ;i  '^'''i  i'"'''  ^^'■\^oinous.     The  buffalo  grass  sought 
the  shade  of  the  wild  sage.    A  small  euphorbia,  the  cotton-weed 
a  t  nstlc  haunted  by  the  Cynthia  carduJ,  that  butterfly  common 
to_  the  eastern  anc    western  hemispheres,  and  a  brigCt  putoria 
mingdcd  with  mushrooms  like  huge  bulbs.     The  cactus  wis  if 
two  kinds:  the  flat-leaved  speciesis  used  by  white  me    to  filter 
water,  and   vy  the  savages,  who  peel  and  toast  it,  as  ]>iwaunt  * 
there  is  another  globular  variety  (an  .c/,/»m.c/.,s)  lying  stTl  dess 
like  a  half  melon,  with  its  brilliant  flowers  guaixled  by"a  p-monW 
of  spines.     We  pursued  a  sandy  tract,  broken  by  bed^s  V  S 
and  Immaras,  between  two  ridges  of  hillocks,  draining  to  he  r  "  t 
into  a  low  bottom  denoted  by  a  lively  green  with  bals  an    bends 
of  lush,  reed- Ike  grass.      This  is  tho  well-known^  iX'-Pde 
Creek  or  Pork,  a  mere  ditch,  the  longest  and  narrowest  of  its 
ind,  nsmg  from  a  mountain  lakelet  near  the  ''New  Bavoi''  or 
1  a,  c,    an  the  Biack  Hills,  and  falling  into  tho  South  S  of 
he  Platte,  aLout  seventy  miles  ^vest  of"  the  bifurcation.    By  fol- 
bw  ng  up    Ins  water  along  the  Cherokee  trail  to  its  head  in    he 
Cheyenne  Pass  of  the  1  ocky  Mountains,  instead  of  deseribin  '    ho 
arc  na  lu>rt  Laramie,  the  mail  woul.l  gain  Gl  miles-  enii.'r^nV, 

«avc  t  rue  and  iaboi^.s  beenV.vfenvd  If.;  the  inaH  lir'^  '''' 
In  the  .American  Sahara  animal  life  began  to  app,>ar   '  The  en 

H.M.il„.rn  TrxuH,  in  ,1,,.  ran  ''  of  2,         «  i        "•"""  "'  ^'V'"      ""  Kr.ms  i„ 
woul.l  a  viimuhcr-  i|„.  .,.,,,11 .  i.  •  T  ,         i  "'"'"'"'•  '''"i'*''.     I'  "^  Nlic'd  „s  yci 

i^^ir:  onh  IN .  ,n.;.MU  wi,i;;'y'::2';.M  'a'  ;;,tTrv: '''•'•  ^""-  "''^  '"■"•■"'- 

kwK,  /V.„^,»„,  ,,„o,c.l  |,.v  AI.-.  Ji.„il'!,i."  ~^'^  Coiru.i,u.ulciu  of  the  Acw  Or- 


Chap.  I. 


THE  PRAIRIE-DOG  VILLAGE. 


65 


animal  has  so  often  been  described  that  there  is  little  new  to  sav 
about  It.  The  mountain  men  are  all  agreed  upon  one  thine 
namely,  that  the  meat  is  by  no  means  bad;  most  of  them  have 
tried  "wolf-mutton"  in  hard  times,  and  may  expect  to  do  so 
again.  The  civilizee  shudders  at  the  idea  of  eating  wolf  from  a 
iood-prejudice,  whose  consideration  forms  a  curious  chapter  in 
human  history.  It  is  not  very  easy,  says  Dr.  Johnson,  to  fix  the 
principles  upon  which  mankind  have  agreed  to  eat  some  animals 
and  reject  others ;  and  as  the  principle  is  not  evident,  so  it  is  not 
umtorm.  Ongmall;>r  invented  for  hygienic  purposes,  dietetic  laws 
soon  became  tenets  of  religion,  and  passed  far  beyond  their  orig- 
inal  intention:  thus  pork,  for  instance,  injurious  in  Syria,  would 
not  be  eaten  by  a  Jew  in  Kussia.  An  extreme  arbitrariness  marks 
tne  modern  systems  of  civilized  people:  the  Englishman,  for  in- 
stance, eats  oysters,  periwinkles,  shrimps,  and  frogs,  while  he  is 
nauseated  by  the  snails,  robins,  and  crows  which  the  Frenchman 
ZnL.n  ^u      "^^^^  '^r'''^'' ""  ^^^^'  ^^^^6  ^^  considers  a  rabbit 

all  delight  in  that  foul  feeder,  the  cluck,  while  they  reject  the  meat 
of  th|  cleanly  ass.  The  Mosaic  law  seems  stilfto  influence  the 
Jiuropean  world,  causing  men  to  throw  away  much  valuable  pro- 
vision because  unaccustomed  to  eat  it  or  to  hear  of  its  being  eaten. 
Ihe  systems  of  China  and  Japan  are  far  more  sensible  for  dense- 
ly populated  countries,  and  the  hippophagists  have  shown,  at 

nf='  f  if  "a  T'^''}  ^"-^  ^^"^'^  g^^-'^Hy  wasted.  The  terrible  fam- 
mes,  followed  by  the  eqnally  fearful  pestilences,  which   have 

?oo.7S.iT      "1'T  '"^'"^^  ",^"^S  to  the  prevalence  of  these 
^od-prejudices,  which  as  might  be  expected,  are  the  most  deeply 
rooted  in  the  poorer  classes,  who  can  least  afford  them. 
beisJTnS  W  ^'  ^7  *''"  ^'''^  ^.r^' ""  prairie-dog  village.    The  little 
soMi  d  o  -^  .T  ^''"'^'^  "'  ;""  <^^"'"«a-pif?.  belongs  to  the  family  of 
.squirrels  and  the  group  of  marmots-in  point  of  manner  it  some- 
wTiat  resembles  the  monkey.      "Wish-ton- Wish"* -an  Indian 
onomatoplasm--was  at  home,  sitting  posted  like  a  sentinel  upon 
ho  roof  and  sunmng  himself  iu  th(,  midday  glow,    h  is  not  emy 
to  shoot  him ;  ho  is  out  of  doors  all  day ;  But,  timid  and  alert/t 
ho  least  suspic  on  of  danger  he  plunges^^ith  a  eSJhirof  the  tkS 
and  a  somersault,  quicker  than  a  shy  young  rabtit's,  ir^o  the  near- 
est hole  peeping  ft-om  tlio  ground,  and  keeping  up  a  feeble  little 
cry  (msh    ton!  wish!)  more  like  the  note  W  ^L  thin  a  bark 
If  not  Killed  outright,  he  will  manage  to  wrigglo  inf,  his  home 

pot,  thus  securing  water  without  danger  of  drowning.     Th(. 

ar     burrowed  out  while  making  the  habilatie.ns  is  thmwn  ui. 

HI  heaps,  winch  servo  as  sitting-places  in  the  wet  season,  and  give 

wUI, '•  or  AuSIm  •iSS^''''''    "^^'^  ""^  ''"^•'^'^^  »  WrU,  the  "  Whi,.poor. 

E 


;    ! 


r 


ee 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


a  look-out  upon  the  adjacent  country;  it  is  more  dangerous  to 
nde  over  them  than  to  charge  a  field  of  East  Indian  "  T'hur  " 
and  many  a  broken  leg  and  collar-bone  have  been  the  result 
ifie  Holes,  which  descend  in  a  spiral  form,  must  be  deep,  and  thev 
are  connected  by  long  galleries,  with  sharp  angles,  ascents  and 
uescents,  to  puzzle  the  pursuer.    Lieutenant  Pike  had  140  ket- 
tles ot  water  poured  into  one  without  dislodging  the  occupant 
1  he  village  is  always  cleared  of  grass,  probably  by  the  necessities 
ot  tiie  tenants,  who,  though  they  enjoy  insects,  are  mainly  erami- 
nivorous,  and  rarely  venture  half  a  mile  from  home.     The  limits 
are  sometimes  three  miles  square,  and  the  population  must  be 
dense,  as  a  burrow  will  occur  every  few  paces.     The  Cmiomm 
Ludomaamis  prepares  for  winter  by  stopping  the  mouth  of  its 
burrow,  and  constructing  a  deeper  cell,  in  which  it  hibernates  till 
spring  appears.    It  is  a  graceful  little  animal,  dark  brown  above 
and  white  below,  with  teeth  and  nails,  head  and  tail  somewhit 
Ike  the  gray  sciurus  of  the  States.    The  Indians  and  trap^erlea 

thanlhTo'?';!?'™"''  ^"^t"^  '''  ^''"^  ^°  ^«  f^^«er  a!ii  b  t  e 
to    hat  of  the  squirrel.     Some  travelers  advise  exposing  the 
meat  lor  a  night  or  two  to  the  frost,  by  which  means  the  jank- 
ness  of  subterranean  flavor  is  corrected.    It  is  undoubted    hn  tit 
ratt lesnake-both  of  the  yellow  and  black  spec^e^n     h     maH 
white  b«rrowing.owl  (>SV;vx-  cunkvhna)  are  often  foun    ir   the 
same  warren  with  this  rodent,  a  curious  happy  family  of  reptle 
bird,  and  beast,  and  in  some  places  he  has  been  seen  to  assoc  ate 
with  tortoises,  rattlesnakes,  and  horned  frogs  (/%r^,L;l«      Ac! 
T^^f  ?  '"?'  naturalists  however,  the  fraternal  harmony  is  not 
so  perfect  as  it  might  oe:  the  owl  is  accused  of  occasionally  grat- 
^ing  his  carnivorous  lusts  by  laving  open  the  skull  of  Wisl^ton- 
Wish  with  a  smart  stroke  of  the  Leak.    We  sighted,  not  far  f lom 
ho  praine-dog  village,  an  animal  which  I  took  to  bo  a  lynx    biu 
he  driver,  who  had  often  seen  the  beast  in  Minnesota\ml  Old 
Ou  sconsinc  '  ckelared  that  they  are  not  to  be  found  here 
At  u  45  I.M.,  traveling  over  the  uneven  barren  and  in  a 

our  noonin.  The  hovel  frontnig  the  creek  was  built  liko  nn 
Tnsh  shanty,  or  a  Beloeh  hut,  against  a  hill  si  o  to  .Vv'  one 
wall,  and  it  presentcl  a  fresh  phase  of  squalor  a,     wretd^c'dne 

Frank  Leslie,"  ami  the  "kew  York  Illustra  <<d  New?  "the 
celling  was  a  fine  festoon-work  of  soof,  ami  the  floor  wns'mnh 
Hko  the  ground  out.side  only  not  nearly  so  eon  Iirre^nu^ 
•stood  the  usual  "bunk,'-  a  mass  of  nilngled  rags  andb,;;;;;: 

nffl.'."..  ..n.l  «.ninK  u  ko  f.,r  1  «   f     ,r  n?  h        "''  T\  '".•••"""7  "'v<'n.H  .m.l  i„ 
In  the  W.-t,  i,  i«  „  fr«mr:«"  k   in  « I    . ,     T         '•'.'  '""?'  ''''"'"  '"  '"'"ti"K-l".ii».r». 


Chap,  I, 


THE  ANTELOPE. 


67 


robes ;  the  centre  of  the  room  was  occupied  by  a  rickety  table 
and  boxes  turned  up  on  their  long  sides,  acteJ  as  S    S 
unescapable  stove  was  there,  filling  the  interior  with  the  aroma 
ofmeat.    As  usual,  the  materials  for  ablution,  a  "  dipper"  or  Z 
a  dmgj  tm  skillet  of  scanty  size,  a  bit  of  coarse  gritty  soap  arS 

There  being  no  <'lady"  at  the  station  on  Lodge-Pole  Creek 
milk  was  unprocurable.  Here,  however,  began  a  fourse  of  S 
lope  venison  which  soon  told  upon  us  with  damaging  effect  I 
a1  andVf  '  consequences  of'this  heating  and  &K  d  t  in 
man.  do  T  f  l"'"'  ?-^'  *u'"^''",^  '^  ^^^^  *«  ^«  ''^  ^^^^  ^^  the  Eo 
wfth  t  1  LZot!"  '\r^'  °^  ?^  companions,  and  suffered 
So  nnfoK  u  r '''''  w^l'l. meats,  bear,  deer,  elk,  and  even  buf- 

fa  o,  antelope  will  disagree  with  a  stranger;  it  is,  however  iuicv 
fat,  and  well-flavored,  especially  when  compared  withX  S 

^id^  Sfj  1'"'  ''^1  ^T"  affordsj^and  thf  hunter Tnd 
trapper  1  ke  tlie  Indian,  are  loud  in  its  praise. 

called  "  L  tbns''  hf  ;?"^P°™  r*'^"P^,  {Antdocapra  Americana, 
caiiea     ie  cabns    by  the  Canadian,  and  "the  Roat"  bv  tlip  im 

ZTt^^ZT^-r^  "^'"^'^  ^^?'^  ''''  P^--  --^  of  tie  Mis- 
souri to  the  Pacific  Ocean;  it  is  also  abundant  on  Minnesota  and 

on  the  banks  of  the  Eed  River;  its  southern  lim^  ?s  No  Uio  „ 

^ZTtlTZoT^''  ''iff  ^-  \^*-  °"  '^'  Saskatchewan     It 
13  about    he  size  of  a  small  deer,  the  male  weighing  65  lbs  in 

good  condition.     The  coat  is  coarse  and  wiry  yellow  dun  on  ih^ 

wShTw'f,,"'''%"?^^^^  ''''  beny,rn/tL'"t:Led7kL''i 
woith  three  dollars.     It  is  at  once  the  fleetest  and  the  wariest 
animal  on  the  prairies,  and  its  sense  of  hearing  as  acute  as  ite 
power  o  smell.     The  best  time  for  "  still  huntin|"  (/  T  stalkW^ 

graziii'Vlir']"'"^  ''V'''''  '7^«  ^^  ^-^  '^  five  frfbi^^^ 
S  in^'tl^n     ^  Jisappear  during  the  midday  heats  of  summer 
and  in    ho  evening,  as  in  India  and  Arabiaf they  are  wild  and 

S  Vstl  a   a  r^.dT'"'"^  '^''y  ^'"  «tand  Ibr  niin- 

n^  the  will  ofVon„Y''^'"''1'''^^?'''  'V'l''^^  ^^''''  '^'^t^^'""  ^"ri- 
ncs8,  ttitv  will  often  approach,  withui  shot,  a  scarlet  kerchief  tied 

movi^;  off  fii^^  1^^^^^^^       n'' -'\ '  *' "  ^'''''  r  <'i«""'b"^l.  the  most  timid 

bv  one  Z  frn  '«"^^!^'^^^  gallop.  At  times  they  halt,  one 
by  one,  and  turn  to  gaz< ,  hv.t  they  prcs^ently  resume^  flisrh  till 
they  reach  some  prominent  place'  wWre  their  keen  vision  c^." 


68 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


'^W 


command  the  surrounding  country.  When  well  roused,  they  are 
thoroughly  on  the  alert ;  the  hunter  will  often  find  that,  though 
he  has  moved  toward  them  silently,  up  the  wind  and  under  cover, 
they  have  suspected  sinister  intentions  and  have  shifted  ground. 

Besides  the  antelope,  there  are  three  species  of  deer  in  the  re- 
gions east  of  the  Kocky  Mountains.    Perhaps  the  most  common 
is  the  red  deer  of  the  Eastern  States  {Cervus  Virginianus  ;  le  chev- 
reuil) :  it  extends  almost  throughout  the  length  of  the  continent, 
and  is  seemingly  independent  of  altitude  as  of  latitude.     The  ven- 
ison is  not  considered  equal  to  that  of  the  antelope ;  travelers, 
however,  kill  off  the  deer  to  save  butchers'  bills,  so  that  it  is  now 
seldom  "glimpsed"  from  the  line  of  route.    The  black-tailed  or 
long-eared  deer  (Cervus  macrotis)  is  confined  to  the  higher  ground ; 
it  has  similar  habits  to  the  red  variety,  and  is  hunted  in  the  same 
way.    The  long-tailed,  or  jumping  deer  {Ce)-vus  kucrumfi,  vulgar- 
ly called  the  roebuck),  affects,  like  the  black-tailed,  the  Rocky 
Mountains,     The  elk  (Oervus  Canadensis)  is  found  in  parts  of 
ITtah  Territory  and  forty  miles  north  of  the  mail-road,  near  the 
Wind-River  Mountains— a  perfect  paradise  for  sportsmen.     It  is 
noble  shooting,  but  poor  editing  as  the  Indian  sambar.*    The 
moose  {Cervus  Alces),  the  giant  of  the  deer  kind,  sometimes  rising 
seventeen  hands  high,  and  weighing  1200  lbs.,  is  an  inhabitant 
of  higher  latitudes— Nova -Scotia,  Canada,  Maine,  and  other  parts 
of  New  England. 

At  Lodge-Pole  Station,  the  mules,  as  might  be  expected  from 
animals  allowed  to  run  wild  every  day  in  the  week  except  one, 
were  like  newly-caught  mustangs.f    The  herdsman— each  station 
boasts  of  this  official— mounted  a  nag  barebacked,  and,  jinglino- 
a  bell,  drove  the  cattle  into  the  corral,  a  square  of  twcntv  yards' 
formed  by  a  wall  of  loose  stones,  four  to  five  feet  high.     He 
wasted  three  quarters  of  an  hour  in  this  operation,  which  a  well- 
trained  shepherd's  dog  would  have  performed  in  a  few  minutes. 
Then  two  men  entering  with  lassos  or  lariats,  thongs  of  flexible 
plaited  or  twisted  hide,  and  provided  with  an  iron  ring  at  one 
end  to  form  the  noose-the  best  are  made  of  hemp,  Russian,  not 
Manilla— proceeded,  in  a  great  "muss"  en  a  small  scale,  to  secure 
their  victims.     The  lasso;]:  in  their  hantls  was  by  no  means  the 

1  "Jf^f  '■>"'  i.'  '''?^  <iomoHtH,itox\  in.  fho  StQto  of  New  York;  it  is  Rtill,  however 
(loubtfal  w  .ether  the  aninmis  will  fatten  well  or  supi.'y  milk,  or  serve  for  other  Ihail 
omainental  purposes.  "" 

t  The  mustariK  h  the  Spanish  mentefto.  The  animal  wag  introduced  by  the  first 
eolonistj.,  and  allowed  to  run  at  higv.  It«  i(,vM  vnrie)v  of  coat  proves  the  miw- 
tariKs  deKeneracy  fn.in  .v.  ,„n,c  horse;  aeeonlinK  to  travehrs,  erenm-eolor,  skew- 
hald  and  p,e hald  lH,ing  nc'  tineonmion.  "  ,Sp„rinK  in  diet,  a  stranger  to  crnin 
eply  .Htish.d  whether  on  RrowinR  or  dead  gras.,  innn'd  to  all  weathers,  and  ..,««: 
hlc  ol  great  lalwr,'  the  nmstanif-pony  i«  a  treaaarc  to  the  r'-'»irie-i!ian 
rA^L,n T,"""?  '?^*^^  "■"■"""•  "'"  '»T ^^P""-  "'«''""' '"  ^v"o„jnum*  «iih  "  lariat' 
with  «  hie  >  halTaloes,  mustaiiMs,  or  mules  are  eaiiRht  tlio  seeond.  which  in  the  \Vi»t 
i»  popularly  prrmounc-eU  "larict."  or  "kricttc,-  m.-re  genorali^  n.ea.'s  Ve  artiel" 


Chap.  I. 


CLOUDS  OF  GRASSHOPPERS. 


69 


"  unerring  necklace"  whicli  the  Mexican  vaqu^.ro  has  taught  it  to 
be :  they  often  missed  their  aim,  or  caught  the  wrong  animal. 
The  eflfect,  however,  was  magical :  a  single  haul  at  the  noose 
made  the  most  stifif-necked  mule  tame  as  a  costermonger's  ass. 
The  team  took,  as  usual,  a  good  hour  to  trap  and  hitch  up :  the 
latter  was  a  delicate  operation,  for  the  beasts  were  comically  clever 
with 'their  hoofs. 

At  3  P.M.,  after  a  preliminary  ringing,  intended  to  soothe  the 
fears  of  Madame,  we  set  out  au  grand  galop,  with  a  team  that  had 
never  worked  together  before.  They  dashed  down  the  cahues 
with  a  violence  that  tossed  us  as  in  a  blanket,  and  nothing  could 
mduce  them,  while  fresh,  to  keep  the  path.  The  yawing  of  the 
.  vehicle  was  ominous :  fortunately,  however,  the  road,  though  self- 
made,  was  excellent ;  the  sides  were  smooth,  and  the  whole  coun- 
try fit  to  be  driven  over.  At  first  the  view  was  sadly  monot- 
onous. It  was  a  fair  specimen  of  the  rolling  prairie,  in  nowise 
diflermg  from  any  other  land  except  in  the  absence  of  trees.  Ac- 
cordmg  to  some  travelers,  there  is  in  several  places  an  apparently 
progressive  decay  of  the  timber,  showing  that  formerly  it  was 
more  extensive  than  it  is  now.  Others  attribute  the  phenomenon 
,  to  the  destruction  of  forests  in  a  former  era  by  fires  or  by  the  abo- 
rigmes.  It  is  more  satisfactory  to  account  for  it  by  a  complica- 
tion of  causes— a  want  of  proper  constituents,  an  insufliciency  of 
ram,  the  depth  of  the  water  below  the  surface,  the  severity  of  the 
eight  months  of  winter  snow,  the  fierce  wind.s  — the  hardiest 
growths  that  present  their  heads  above  the  level  of  the  prairies 
have  dead  tops— the  shortness  of  the  summers,  and  last,  but  not 
least,  the  clouds  of  grasshoppers.  According  to  Lieutenant  War- 
ren, wlioso  graphic  description  is  hero  borrowed,  these  insects  are 
"neariy  the  same  as  the  locusts  of  Egypt;  and  no  one  who  has 
not  traveled  on  the  prairie,  and  seen  for  himself,  can  appreciate 
the  magnitude  of  the  swarms.  Often  they  fill  the  air  for  many 
miles  of  extent,  so  that  an  inexperienced  eye  can  scarcely  distin- 
guish their  appearance  from  that  of  a  shower  of  rahi  or  the  smoke 
of  a  prairie  fire.  The  height  of  their  flight  may  be  somewhot  ap- 
preciated, as  Mr.  E.  James  saw  them  above  his  liead,  as  far  as  their 
size  would  render  them  visible,  while  standing  on  the  top  of  a 
peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  8500  feet  above  the  plain,  and  an 
elevation  of  14,500  above  that  of  the  sea,  in  the  region  where 
the  snow  lies  all  the  year.  To  a  person  standing  in  one  of  these 
Bwarms  as  they  pass  over  and  around  him,  the  air  becomes  sensi- 
bly darkened,  and  the  sound  produced  by  their  wings  resembles 
that  of  the  passage  of  a  train  of  cars  on  a  railroad  when  standing 
two  or  thr(U)  hundred  yards  from  the  track.  The  Mormon  set- 
tlements have  suffered  more  from  the  ravages  of  these  insects  than 

with  which  anirnnls  are  t.icketetl.     Many  authors,  howfver,  have  made  "lariat"  the 
equivalent  of  "  lasso."     The  'r.^xons  use.  iiiHtcud  of  the  hido  lotso,  a  hair  rope  called 
cabercs,"  from  iho  Si)anish  "  calniHtro,"  n  halter. 


m 


m 


70 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


0^ 


t 
i 


probably  all  other  causes  combined.  They  destroyed  nearly  all 
the  vegetables  cultivated  last  year  at  Fort  Eandall,  and  extended 
their  ravages  east  as  far  as  Iowa." 

As  we  advanced,  the  horizon,  every  where  within  musket-shot 
—a  wearying  sight  1— widened  out,  and  the  face  of  the  country 
uotably  changed.    A  scrap  of  blue  distance  and  high  hills— the 
l^ourt-house   and  others— appeared  to  the  northwest.    The  long 
curved  lines,  the  gentle  slopes,  and  the  broad  hollows  of  the  divide 
tacing  the  South  lork  changed  into  an  abrupt  and  precipitous  de- 
scent, "gullied"  like  the  broken  ground  of  sub-ranges  attached  to 
a  mountain  chain.    Deep  ravines  were  parted  by  long  narrow 
ridges,  sharp-crested  and  water-washed,  exposing  ribs  and  back- 
bones of  sandstone  and  silicious  lime,  like  the  vertebrae  of  some 
huge  saurian :  scatters  of  kunker,  with  a  detritus  of  quartz  and 
granite,  clothed  the  ground,  and,  after  passing  Lodge-Pole  Creek 
which  bears  away  to  the  west,  the  rocky  steps  required  the  cer- 
petual  application  of  the  brake.    Presently  we  saw  a  dwarf  cliff 
inclosing  in  an  elliptical  sweep  a  green  amphitheatre,  the  valley 
of  our  old  friend  the  Platte.     On  the  far  bant  of  its  northern  fork 
lay  a  forty-mile  stretch  of  sandy,  barren,  glaring,  heat-reeking 
ground,  not  unlike  that  which  the  overland  traveler  looking  south- 

TllIT  ^'''f  ?','•      7^  ^'^*/"^  ^^  ^^«  ^'g^t  ^  "oted  spot, 
Ash  Hollow,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  of  the  same  pre- 
nomen.    It  is  described  as  a  pretty  bit  in  a  barren  land,  about 
twenty  acres,  surrounded  by  high  bluffs,  well  timbered  with  ash 
'^S^r.''!?'"'';^"'^,"^''^"  clematis  and  other  wild  flowers.     Here  in 
1865,  the  doughty  General  Harney,  with  700  to  800  men,  "gave 
Jessie    to  a  large  war-party  of  Bruld  Sioux  under  their  chief  Little 
Ihunder  of  whom  more  anon,  killinglSO,  and  capturing  60  squaws 
and  children,  with  but  seven  or  eight  casualties  in  his  own  fbrce 
Descending  into  the  bed  of  a  broad  "arroyo,"t  at  this  season 
bone  dry,  we  reached,  at  5  45  P.M.,  Mud-Spring  Station,  which 
takes  Its  name  from  a  little  run  of  clear  water  in  a  black  mirv 
lioJlow.    A  kind  of  cress  grows  in  it  abundantly,  and  the  banks 
are  bright  with  the  '  morning-glory"  or  convolvulus.     The  sta 
tion-house  was  not  unhko  an  Egyptian  fellah's  hut.     Tlie  material 
was  sod  half  peat  with  veget.ible  matter;  it  is  taken  up  in  We 
flakes  alter  being  furrowed  with  the  plow,  and  is  cut  to  pS 
engtlKS  witii  a  short-handled  spade.    Cedar  timber,^:  broi  gh^  S 
the  neighboring  hills,  formed  the  roof.     The  only  accumm  da  ,on 
was  an  open  shed,  with  a  sort  of  doorless  dormitory  by "4  side. 

pme  family.    Tlic  rc<l  cedar  ( l  yir„i»i.L?\      "  •       "\y"'"'"*'  ^'''''''ra  of  the 
Iho  Southern  .wmjITb  a  cji'rei  ^"^"'*"'"'^  '^  "  J"'"I'"-     ^ho  "  wbito  cedar"  of 


Chap.  I. 


AN  IMPROMPTU  BEDROOM. 


71 


We  dined  in  the  shed,  and  amused  ourselves  with  feeding  the  little 
brown-speckled  swamp-blackbirds  that  hopped  about  us  tame  and 
"peert    as  wrens,  and  when  night  drew  near  we  sought  shelter 
from  the  furious  southern  gale,  and  heard  tales  of  Mormon  suffer- 
ing which  made  us  think  lightly  of  our  little  hardships.*    Dread- 
ing the  dormitory— if  it  be  true  that  the  sultan  of  fleas  inhabits 
Jafta  and  his  vizier  Grand  Cairo,  it  is  certain  that  his  vermin  offi- 
cials have  settled  ^ra  tern,  on  Emigration  Eoad— I  cast  about  for 
a^quieter  retreat.     Fortune  favored  me  by  pointing  out  the  body 
of  a  dismantled  wagon,  an  article— like  the  Tyrian  keels  which 
suggested  the  magalia— often  used  as  a  habitation  in  the  Far  West 
and  not  unfrequently  honored  by  being  converted  into  a  bridal- 
chamber  after  the  short  and  sharp  courtship  of  the  "  Perraries  " 
.!u  J'?^*'i!^^°  "^^^n^  ^^"^'  intelligent,  and  civil  man,  lent  me  a 
buttalo    by  way  of  bedding ;  the  water-proof  completed  my  out- 
fit, provided  with  which  I  bade  adieu  for  a  while  to  this  weary 
world.     Ihe  thermometer  sank  before  dawn  to  62°  (F)     After 
five  nights  more  or  less  in  the  cramping  wagon,  it  might  be  sup- 
posed that  we  should  have  enjoyed  the  unusual  rest:  on  the  con- 
trary, we  had  become  inured  to  the  exercise ;  we  could  have  kept 
It  up  lor  a  month,  and  we  now  grumbled  only  at  the  loss  of  time. 

A*o    AH*       A      1     Past,ihe  Court-house  and  Scott's  Bhffs.     August  iSth. 

At «  AM.,  after  breaking  our  fast  upon  a  tough  antelope  steak 
and  dawd  ing  while  the  herdsman  was  riding  wildly  about  in 
search  of  his  runaway  mules— au  operation  now  to  become  of 
daily  occurrence— we  dashed  over  the  Sandy  Creek  with  an  e/an 
calculated  to  make  timid  passengers  look  "  skeery,"  and  began  to 
finish  the  rolling  divide  between  the  two  forks.  We  crossed  sev- 
eral arroyos  and  "  criks"  heading  in  the  line  of  clay  highlands  to 
our  left,  a  dwarf  sierra  which  stretches  from  the  northern  to  the 
southern  branch  of  the  Platte.  The  principal  are  Omaha  Creek 
more  generally  known  as  "  Little  Punkin,"t  and  Lawrence  Fork.^ 

*  The  Mormon  emigrants  usually  start  from  Council  Bluffs,  on  the  left  bank  of 

t'er  oZZ  '"'a'"'  '"'v-  '"'■  'r  '"'^'^  °'^P°''''«  ^^-'"^^i""'  °"'«"w£  ca  Icdiyf- 
ter  Qiinriers  According  to  the  "Overland  Guide,"  Council  Bluffs  is  the.  natural 
crossing  of  the  Missouri  l^yer,  on  the  route  destined  by  Nature  for  the  g  en  tho- 
oughtarc  to  the    'ac.  ic.     Thi.  was  the  road  selected  bv  "Nature's  civil  cSem" 

same  tra.1;    then  the  travelers;   next  the  settlers  came.     After  ninety-fo  ™  mi le"^ 
marchmg,  the  M,u-m.>ns  are  forrie.l  across  Loup  Fork,  a  stream  thi    ee„  ro'  ^  dc 
ful  of  bars  w,  h  banks  and  a  bottom  all  quicksand.     Another  150  ,^le   tl.      '  enl 
to  the  I'huto  K;ver,  where  they  find  good  camping-places,  with  ,,]onTv  of  wo^er  buf 
falo-clnps  and  grass.     Eighty-two  miles  beyon<l  that  point  (a  to  «1  of  SOfiTthev  «r 

Tth  si  le  "ftll'^W  H^'"'';"  ^"  ''V  ^^'^^n.A  the  next  30.)  miL  o^  tl u- 
north  side  ,  f  tho  I'lattc,  the  only  sign  of  vegetation  is  "Lone  Tree."    Manv  emi- 
grants avoid  tus  dreary  "spell-  by  crossing  the  Platte  op,,osito  Ash  Hollow^  (Ti- 
ers pass  it  at  'latto-Uiver  Ferry,  a  short  .listancc  below  tie  mouth  of  Larnnde  U  ver 
while  others  keep  the  old  rond  to  the  north.  ^^jrnmic  uiver. 

t  Pmikin  (i.  e.,  pumpkin)  and  corn  (.-.  e',  zca  maize) are,  and  were  from  time  im- 
memonal,  the  great  staples  of  native  American  ngricnlturc. 

t  According  to  Webster,  "fork«-  (in  tno  pluruO_the  point  where  a  river  diridcs. 


72 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  1. 


The  latter  is  a  pretty  bubbling  stream,  running  over  sand  and 
stones  washed  down  from  the  Court-house  Eidge ;  it  bifurcates 
above  the  ford,  runs  to  the  northeast  through  a  prairie  four  to 
five  miles  broad,  and  swell?  the  waters  of  old  Father  Platte:  it 
derives  its  name  from  a  Frenchman  slaughtered  by  the  Indians 
niurder  being  here,  as  in  Cc  ntral  Africa,  ever  the  principal  source 
of  nomenclature.  The  heads  of  both  streams  afford  quantities  of 
currants,  red,  black,  and  yellow,  and  cherry-sticks  which  are  used 
for  spears  and  pipe -stems. 

After  twelve  miles'  drive  we  fronted  the  Court-house,  the  re- 
markable portal  of  a  new  region,  and  this  new  region  teeming 
with  wonders  will  now  extend  about  100  miles.    It  is  the  mau- 
vaises  terres,  or  Bad  lands,  a  tract  about  60  miles  wide  and  160 
long,  stretching  in  a  direction  from  the  northeast  to  the  south- 
west, or  from  the  Mankizitah  (White -Earth)  Eiver,  over  the  Nio- 
brara {Eau  qui  court)  and  Loup  Fork  to  the  south  banks  of  the 
Platte :  its  eastern  limit  is  the  mouth  of  the  Kcya  Paha.     The 
term  is  generally  applied  by  the  trader  to  any  section  of  the 
prairie  country  where  the  roads  are  difficult,  and  by  dint  of  an  ill 
name  the  Bad  lands  have  come  to  be  spoken  of  as  a  Golgotha 
white  with  the  bones  of  man  and  beast.    American  travelers  on 
the  contrary,  declare  that  near  parts  of  the  White  River  "some 
as  beautiful  valleys  are  to  be  found  as  any  where  in  the  Far 
We^t, '  and  that  many  places  "  abound  in  the  most  lovely  and  va- 
ried forms  m  endless  variety,  giving  the  most  striking  and  pleas- 
ing effects  of  hght  and  shade."    The  formation  is  the  i^liocene  and 
miocene  tertiary,  uncommonly  rich  in  vertebrate  remains:  the 
mauvaues  terres  are  composed  of  nearly  horizontal  strata,  and 
though  diversified  by  the  effects  of  denuding  agencies,  and  pre- 
senting in  diftcrent  portions  striking  characteristics,  yet  they  are 
as  a  whole,  a  great  uniform  surface,  gradually  rising  toward  the 
mountains,  at  the  base  of  which  they  attain  an  elevation  varvin^ 
between  3000  and  5500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea." 
■      The  Court-house,  which  had  lately  suffered  from  heavy  rain  rc- 
*mb  ed  any  thing  more  than  a  court-house ;  that  it  did'so  in  for- 
mer days  we  may  gather  from  the  tales  of  many  travelers  old  Ca- 
nadian voyageurs,  who  unanimously  accounted  it  a  fit  place  for 
Indian  spooks,  ghosts  and  hobgoblins  to  meet  in  powwow,  and  to 
count  their  coups"  delivered  in  the  flesh.     The  Court-house  lic^ 
about  eight  miles  from  the  river,  and  three  from  the  road  •  in  cir- 
cumference It  may  be  half  a  mile,  and  in  height  300  fecf  it 'is 
however,  gradually  degrading,  and  the  rains  and  snows  of  not 
many  years  will  lay  it  level  with  the  ground.     The  material  is  a 
rough  conglomerate  of  hard  marl;  the  mass  is  apparently  the 
flank  or  shoulder  of  a  range  forming  the  southern  buttress  of  the 
PJatte,  and  which,  being  composed  of  softer  stuff-,  ha.s  gradually 

?.'"<•'""/'',?'■  ^u"^  '"'V  "^"'■^  "*•=*"  ■'"'^  ""''c  in  ono  Btrcam.     Each  branch  is  called  ,, 
"fork."    The  word  might  be  useful  to  English  travelers. 


Chap.  I. 


THE  COMPATRIOT. 


73 


melted  away,  leaving  this  remnant  to  rise  in  solitary  grandeur 
above  the  plain.  In  books  it  is  described  as  resembling  a  gigan- 
tic ruin,  -with  a  huge  rotunda  in  front,  windows  in  the  sides,  and 
remains  of  roofs  and  stages  in  its  flanks :  verily  potent  is  the  eye 
of  imagination  I  To  me  it  appeared  in  the  shape  of  an  irregular 
pyramid,  whose  courses  were  inclined  at  an  ascendable  angle  of 
35°,  with  a  detached  outwork  composed  of  a  perpendicular  mass 
based  upon  a  slope  of  45° ;  in  fact,  it  resembled  the  rugged  earth- 
works of  Sakkara,  only  it  was  far  more  rugged.  According  to 
the  driver,  the  summit  is  a  plane  upon  which  a  wagon  can  turn. 
My  military  companion  remarked  that  it  would  make  a  fine  nat- 
ural fortress  against  Indians,  and  perhaps,  in  the  old  days  of  ro- 
mance and  Colonel  Bonneville,  it  has  served  as  a  refuge  for  the 
harried  fur-hunter.  I  saw  it  when  set  off  by  weather  to  advant- 
age. A  blazing  sun  rained  fire  upon  its  cream-colored  surface — 
at  11  A.M.  the  glass  showed  95°  in  the  wagon — and  it  stood  bold- 
ly out  against  a  purple-black  nimbus  which  overspread  the  south- 
ern skies,  growling  distant  thunders,  and  flashing  red  threads  of 
"chained  lightning." 

I  had  finished  a  hasty  sketch,  when  suddenly  appeared  to  us 
a  most  interesting  sight — a  neat  ambulance,*  followed  by  a  four- 
gon  and  mounted  soldiers,  from  which  issued  an  ofiicer  in  uniform, 
who  advanced  to  greet  Lieutenant  Dana.  The  traveler  was  Cap- 
tain, or  ratlier  Major  Marcy,  who  was  proceeding  westward  on 
leave  of  absence.  After  introduction,  he  remembered  that  his  ve- 
hicle contained  a  compatriot  of  mine.  The  compatriot,  whose 
length  of  facial  hair  at  once  told  his  race — for 

"The  larger  the  whisker,  the  greater  the  Tory" — 

was  a  Mr.  A ,  British  vice-consul  at  *  *  *'s,  Minnesota.  Hav- 
ing lately  tried  his  maiden  hand  upon  buffalo,  he  naturally  con- 
cluded that  I  could  have  no  other  but  the  same  object.  Pleasant 
estimate,  forsooth,  of  a  man's  brain,  that  it  can  find  nothing  in 
America  worthy  of  its  notice  but  bison-shooting !  However,  the 
supposition  had  a  couhiir  locale.  Every  week  the  New  York  pa- 
pers convey  to  the  New  World  the  interesting  information  that 
some  distinguished  Britisher  has  crossed  the  Atlantic  and  half 
crossed  the  States  to  enjoy  the  society  of  the  "  monarch  of  our 
prairies."  Americans  consequently  have  learned  to  look  upon 
this  Albionic  eccentricity  as  "  the  thing."  That  unruly  member 
the  tongue  was  upon  the  point  of  putting  in  a  something  about 

*  The  price  of  the  strong  light  traveling  wagon  called  an  ambulance  in  the  West 
is  about  $250 ;  in  the  East  it  is  much  cheaper.  With  four  mules  it  will'  vary  from 
$750  to  $900 ;  wlien  resold,  however,  it  rarely  fetches  half  that  sum.  A  journey  be- 
tween St.  Joseph  and  Great  Salt  Lake  City  can  easily  be  accomplished  in  an  ambu- 
lanco  within  forty  days.  Offleers  and  sportsmen  prefer  it,  because  they  have  their 
time  to  themselves,  and  they  can  carry  stores  and  necessaries.  On  the  other  hand, 
"  strikers" — soldier-helps — or  Canadian  enga(/t'.i  are  necessary  ;  and  the  pleasure  of 
traveling  is  by  no  means  enhanced  by  the  nightly  fear  that  the  stock  will  "bolt,"  not 
to  bo  recovered  for  a  week,  if  then. 


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74 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  L 


ttLTSt  iftt'hSrL?^^^^^^^^^  '  P.^^^^^-^°^'  -^-  the  re. 
patriot  evidentTy  bif  wkh  tL  /f  ^T  ^.^^'^  *°  "«^^ff"  ^  tom- 
tit and  bridL  curbg  il  tt      ^  *^  ""^  ^  ^'^^*  ^^P^°^*'  ^^^^^ 

relieved  eves  wh  oh  Jni  7-  1^^  ^^^"^'  ^^^^^  a  lively  green 
SindKkfdfvide  The  ronT"''^  retma  pictures  of  the  Wren 
rough  and  b  oken  and  nuffs  A/!"  "'"'^  ^^^"^.*^.^  ^^^^^-^^d-.  ^a^ 
in  ponderous  clSi??2loPM"'  ''^''^  ^^/"'^^  ^'^^^"^^ 
a  little  hovel  caSed  a  r^lh  wlh^l,  """  "T"^  ^°"  ^"  ^°"^  ^t 
occasion  to  sSh  tL  fn  7     ?J^t-  °°''"^^  ^^^^^^^  and  I  took 


OOIIU«|r  BOCK. 


the  Platte.  It  is  comnoS  of  a  fri.  n"  '^^'?  '""^'^  ^^^^  of 
readily  to  the  knife  aCshanolni'"  ^f^"'^  '^•^^^'  ^i^^^lJ'-'^g 
(^uasi  conical.  Viewed  from Xl"*  ^^  '  Peq^cndicilar  anS 
jack-boot  based  upTaT.lZ^^^  r '?"'.'  ^'^^^^ 

m  the  natural  slox-,  rest.  ^up^rZ  ptr  qt^.^lV'^^''^^ 
stone  connecting  t  with  the  ailinoonfi,!  „  i  ","  "^  *^'  ««n<^- 
the  floods  around  tl^  1,  I'v  w  -  ^''"  'li«tributed  by 

Tlus^Pl..rosofthe,S;:rK^^^^^ 
2(X>,eet  above  the  ajlox  of  it,s  fo.JXtbl'a  T^!^  trndmarV 


Chap.  I. 


EOBIDOUX'  FORT. 


75 


visible  for  40  to  50  miles :  it  is  now  barely  35  feet  in  heiglit.  It 
has  often  been  struck  by  lightning ;  imber  edax  has  gnawed  much 
away,  and  the  beginning  of  the  end  is  already  at  hand.  It  is  easy 
to  ascend  the  pyramid ;  but,  while  Pompey  s  Pillar,  Peter  Botte, 
and  Ararat  have  all  felt  the  Anglo-Scandinavian  foot,  no  ventur- 
ous scion  of  the  race  has  yet  trampled  upon  the  top  of  Chimney 
Rock.  Around  the  waist  of  t*he  base  runs  a  white  band  which 
sets  off  its  height  and  relieves  the  uniform  tint.  The  old  sketches 
of  this  curious  needle  now  necessarily  appear  exaggerated ;  more- 
over, those  best  known  represent  it  as  a  column  rising  from  a 
confused  heap  of  boulders,  thus  conveying  a  completely  false  idea. 
Again  the  weather  served  us :  nothing  could  be  more  picturesque 
than  this  lone  pillar  of  pale  rock  lying  against  a  huge  black  cloud, 
with  the  forked  lightning  playing  over  its  devoted  head. 

After  a  frugal  dinner  of  biscuit  and  cheese  we  remounted  and 
pursued  our  way  through  airy  fire,  which  presently  changed  from 
our  usual  pest  —  a  light  dust-luden  breeze  —  into  a  Punjaubian 
dust-storm,  up  the  valley  of  the  Platte.  We  passed  a  ranch  called 
"  Eobidoux'  Fort,"  from  the  well-known  Indian  trader  of  that 
name  ;*  it  is  now  occupied  by  a  Canadian  or  a.  French  Creole, 

elers  who  visited  it  some  years  since  placed  its  height  at  upward  of  500  feet,"  though 
in  his  day  (1842)  it  had  diminished  to  200  feet  above  the  river. 

♦  From  the  St.  Joseph  (Mo.)  Gazette :  "  Obituary.— Departed  this  life,  at  his  res- 
idence in  this  city,  on  Wednesday,  the  29th  day  of  AuRust,  18C0,  after  a  long  ill- 
ness, Antoine  Robidoux,  in  the  sixty-sixth  year  of  his  age.  Mr.  Robidoux  was  bom 
in  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  in  the  year  1794.  He  was  one  of  the  brothers  of  Mr.  Jo- 
seph Robidoux,  founder  of  the  city  of  St.  Joseph.  He  was  possessed  of  a  sprightly 
intellect  and  a  sjjirit  of  adventure.  When  not  more  than  twenty-two  years  of  age  ho 
accompanied  Gen.  Atkinson  to  the  then  very  wild  and  distant  region  of  the  Yellow 
Stone.  At  the  ago  of  twenty-eight  he  went  to  Mexico,  and  lived  tlicre  fifteen  year?. 
Ho  then  married  a  very  interesting  Mexican  lady,  who  returned  with  him  to  the 
States.  For  many  years  he  traded  extensively  with  the  Navajoes  and  Apaches.  In 
1840  ho  came  to  this  city  with  his  family,  and  has  resided  here  ever  since  In  1845 
ho  went  out  to  the  mountains  on  a  trading  expedition,  and  was  ci  light  by  the  most 
terrible  storms,  which  caused  the  death  of  one  or  two  hundred  of  his  horses,  and 
atojJiHid  Ills  progress.  His  brother  Joseph,  the  respectable  founder  of  this  city,  sent 
to  his  relief  and  had  him  brought  in,  or  he  would  have  perished.  He  was  found  in 
a  most  deplorable  condition,  and  saved.  In  1846  he  accompanied  Gen.  Kearney,  as 
interpreter  and  guide,  to  Mexico.  In  n  buttle  with  the  Mexicans  ho  was  lanced  so- 
vorely  in  three  places,  but  ho  survived  his  wounds,  and  returned  to  St.  Joseph  in 
1849.  Soon  after  that  he  went  to  California,  and  remained  until  1854.  In  1855 
ho  removed  to  New  Mexico  with  his  family,  and  in  1850  ho  went  to  Washington, 
and  remained  there  a  year,  arranging  scmio  business  with  the  government.  He  then 
returned  to  St.  Joseph,  and  has  nnnnined  hero  ever  since.  Mr.  Robidoux  was  a  very 
remarkable  man.  Tall,  slender,  athletic,  and  agile,  ho  possessed  the  most  graceful 
and  pleasing  manners,  and  an  intellect  of  a  sujairior  order.  In  every  company  ho 
was  aflalile,  grnceful,  and  highly  pleasing.  His  conversaticn  was  always  interesting 
and  instructive,  and  ho  possessed  many  of  those  qualities  which,  if  he  remained  in 
tho  States,  would  have  raised  him  to  positions  of  distinction.  He  suffered  for  sev- 
eral years  before  his  death  with  a  terrible  soreness  of  tho  eyes,  which  defied  tho  curn- 
tlvo  skill  of  tho  doctors;  and  for  the  past  ten  years  ho  has  been  atllicted  with  dro|)- 
sy.  A  week  or  two  iigo  he  wn«  taken  with  n  viiilcnt  hemorrhage  of  f  ho  lungs,  which 
completely  prostrated  him,  and  from  tho  efl'cct«  of  which  he  never  recovered.  Ho 
was  attended  by  the  best  medical  skill,  and  his  wife  and  many  friends  were  with 
him  to  tho  hour  of  his  dissolution,  which  occurred  on  Monday  morning,  at  four 
o'clock,  at  Ills  residence  in  this  city.     Ho  will  bo  lung  remembered  as  a  courteous, 


76 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


■ 


erwTthn  !;f,uW  ^/  ^v'?"''  '^''^^'  ^""^  ^as  garnished  his  quiv- 
KraTe  of  Tn^w  V  t  ^^\^yi«d|.  The  driver  pointed  ou?  the 
lar?h  of  n  1°'^""  ^^^  ^^^  ^^^°1^  visited  the  prairies  in 

iW«  ./.  ^^?  for  consumption.  As  we  advanced  the  stora 
increased  to  a  tornado  of  north  wind,  blinding  our  cattle  tS^ 
drove  them  off  the  road     The  gale  howled  thrfurh  t^l  with 

TtJ  ^'^7  ^' •  P'  °^  '^^"'  ^^^  threatening  weather  caused 
ttee^ofiotrBTur  *°  "'^^'  ^'^--ives"^  a  corral  near 
f^l^l®  ^^'i^^'u'  »  ^Spanish  and  Portuguese  word,  which,  corrupted 
^Z  "f'  ^"^  ^'''''"^  '^  ^^y  ^^^°"g^  Southern  Africa,  sign?fies 
pnmari  J  a  square  or  circular  pen  for  cattle,  which  may  be  made 
oi  tree-trunks,  stones,  or  any  other  convenient  material.  The 
corral  of  wagons  is  thus  formed.  The  two  foremost  are  brought 
^Zr^  Pf  allel  to  each  other,  and  are  followed  by  the  rest,X 
posed  as  ant,  so  that  the  near  fore  wheel  of  the  hinder  touches 

fde     Tfr/«T^''^  °^^'  P^r^^'^S  ^*'  ^"^^  '^^■^  --^  oTth^o  her 
,Vnt  .p      ,  .*«'^g'\es,"  or  poles,  are  turned  outward,  for  conven- 

IrP^o  1  ^?^'"^'  ""-"^  ^^,  ^"^"^  ''  "'^t  ^^Pected,  otherwise  they 
are  made  to  pomt  inward,  and  the  gaps  are  closed  by  ropes  S 

Cle  oneHn?  fiS  "^T\  ^^^"'  "  ^T^^  °^^^  ^«  formecfwitSa  sb 
gle  opening  fifteen  to  twenty  yards  across;  some  find  it  more 
convenient  to  leave  an  exit  it  both  ends.    In  dangerous  pW 

•onn^HT^''  "'^  '""''"'^  f  "'g*^*  ^i'^«^  by  cords  or^by  wheS 
lound   he  near  wagons;  the  cattle  are  driven  in  before  sundown 
especially  when  the  area  of  the  oval  is  large  enough   o  enaWe 
them  to  graze,  and  the  men  sleep  under  thefr  vehicles.    In  safer 
travel  the  tents  are  pitched  outeide  the  corral  with  their  doo?^ 
outward,  and  in  front  of  these  the  camp-fires  are  lighted     K 
favorite  spots  with  teamsters  for  corraling  are  the  re-tnterin^r  an 
gks  of  deep  streams,  especially  where  these  have  high  ^d  pS-" 
itous  banks,  or  the  crests  of  abrupt  hills  and  bluffs-thc  pSS. 
for  nightmg  usually  chosen  by  the  Australian  trave£r-when 

cx|,e,l,t,on8  Ihcy  i„sti„cfvcly  adopt  the  »v,tom  TilSS 


Chap.  I. 


SCOTT'S  BLUFFS. 


77 


the  Gallas,  and  the  Somal.  Providmg  themselves  with  rattles 
and  other  implements  for  making  startling  noises,  they  ride 
stealthily  up  close  to  the  cattle,  and  then  rush  by  like  the  whirl- 
wind with  a  volley  of  horrid  whoops  and  screams.  When  the 
"  cavallard"  flies  in  panic  fear,  the  plunderers  divide  their  party ; 
some  drive  on  the  plunder,  while  the  others  form  a  rear-guard  to 
keep  off  pursuers.  The  prairie-men  provide  for  the  danger  by 
keeping  their  fleetest  horses  saddled,  bridled,  and  ready  to  be 
mounted  at  a  moment's  notice.  .When  the  animals  have  stam- 
peded, the  owners  follow  them,  scatter  the  Indians,  and  drive,  if 
possible,  the  madrina,  or  bell-mare,  to  the  front  of  the  herd,  grad- 
ually turning  her  toward  the  camp,  and  slacking  speed  as  the  fa- 
miliar objects  come  in  sight.  Horses  and  mules  appear  peculiar- 
ly timorous  upon  the  prairies.  A  band  of  buftalo,  a  wolf,  or 
even  a  deer,  will  sometimes  stampede  them ;  they  run  to  great 
distances,  and  not  unfrequently  their  owners  fail  to  recover  them. 
"  Scott's  Bluffs,"  situated  285  miles  from  Fort  Kearney  and  51 
from  Fort  Laramie,  was  the  last  of  the  great  marl  formations 
which  we  saw  on  this  line,  and  was  of  all  by  far  the  most  curious. 
In  the  dull  uniformity  of  the  prairies,  it  is  a  striking  and  attract- 
ive object,  far  excelling  the  castled  crag  of  Drachenfela  or  any  of 
the  beauties  of  romantic  Rhine.  From  a  distance  of  a  dav'-  march 
it  appears  in  the  shape  of  a  large  blue  mound,  distinguish  .d  only 
by  its  dimensions  from  the  detached  fragments  of  hill  around. 
As  you  approach  within  four  or  five  miles,  a  massive  medieval 
city  gradually  defines  itself,  clustering,  with  a  wonderful  fullness 
of  detail,  round  a  colossal  fortress,  and  (  ?owned  with  a  royal  cas- 
tle. Buttress  and  barbican,  bastion,  demilune,  and  guard-house, 
tower,  turret,  and  donjon-keep,  all  are  there:  in  one  place  para- 


•cort  ■  uLurFB. 


I 


M 


Liai 


i 


m 


78 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I, 


II 


Stle  on  tL  p  W  ^^^"\of  Chateau  Gaillard,  the  "  Beautiful 

re^embk...  !l.  T^i    ^''^'.*^^*  "^^^^"g  "^^7  be  wanting  to  the 

ifne  of  road  a^'it^b^'"^-?"'  "°^  T^  ^^"^^  '^^^^  «^*  tl^«  old 
sweeD  w£  fl  ^"^^  '^,V  "^  ^f^"^^^  "^o^t  ^'tJi  '-^  semicircular 
fwL  fi^  *^^  "''''^^^  ^"^  ^^th  a  mimic  river.  Quaint  figures 
wjl^  themselves;   guards  and  sentinels  in  dark  armor  ke?p 

mStlablvr'VPr  '^l  '^"^n  '^'  ^^^^  °f  B^«ti-  crouches  S 
mistakably  overlooking  the  road;  and  as  the  shades  of  an  artifi- 

with  HnL  n   ^'^^*  ^^""^'^  ^'^P""*  *°  ^^^  ^^"^^  «P««tr^l  horseman, 

^UT  -i^- "^  P^"T^'  ^°  ^'^  ^^"'^^^  '-^bo^t  the  deserted  streete 

ruined  buildings,  and  broken  walls.    At  a  nearer  aspect  Sn 

he  quaint  illusion  vanishes ;  the  lines  of  masonry  become  yelbw 

layers  of  boulder  and  pebble  imbedded  in  a  mass  of  stiff  tampel 

bald  marly  clay ;  the  curtains  and  angles  change  to  the  gaS?  of 

the  rains  of  ages,  and  the  warriors  are  metam?rphosed1nto  dwarf 

cedars  and  dense  shrubs,  scattered  singly  over  tte  surface     Trav 

elers  have  compared  this  glory  of  ihIL rcvaises  ZTto  otCl. 

thIntVf  '  .?''P'*^^   •'  Washington,  to  Stirling  Castie.     I  could 

think  of  no  hing  in  its  presence  but  the  Arabi'  <'Citv  of  Brass" 

that  mysterious  abode  of  bewitched  infidels,  which  XnaDDeara 

at  a  distance  to  the  wayfarer  toiling  under  the  burn  ng  suTC 

ever  eludes  his  nearer  search.  """^11^  sun,  out 

Scott's  Blufts  derive  their  name  from  an  unfortunate  fur-trader 
there  nut  on  shore  m  the  olden  time  by  his  boat's  crew,  who  had 
a  ffrudere  against  h  m  •  fl.R  wrot^i,  i,,  ^^^,..^  ..•  .1 '  "'^"  """ 


Kn  iw*  --—•.;"-  .Mu  .xioi,  uauiv,  wiiu  us  aarK  associations,  must 
be  better  pleasing  to  the  r/enius  ha.  They  are  divided  into  three 
distinct  masses.  The  largest,  which  may  V  800  /eet  hSh.  on 
the  right,  or  nearest  the  river.  To  its  left  lies  an  outwork  a 
huge,  detached  cylinder  whose  capping  changes  aspect  from  ovp'r^ 
<lircct,on;  and  still  farther  to  ihflff  is  a  s^?onf elle  Iw  d? 
yided  from,  but  once  connected  with  the  othem    ThTwholeTffai 

PlaUeCn'Ftnr"^  ^'°"^  ^^^%"^^"^  ^--^"g^'  ^"^  closing  upon  tie 
riatte  so  as  to  leave  no  room  for  a  road 

lo/w''  gi-atifving  our  curiosity  we  resumed  our  way.  The  route 
lay  between  the  right-hand  fortress  and  the  outwork,  through  « 
degraded  bed  of  softer  marl,  once  doubtleas  part  of^leS' 
The  sharn,  sudden  torrents  which  pour  from  tL  heights  on  boTh 
sides,  ancf  the  draughty  winds-Scitt's  Bluffs  are  t^^  permanent 
head-quarters  of  hurncanes-havo  cut  up  the  ground  into  a  labv 
nnU,  of  jaggod  gulches  steeply  walled  iil.  W?  dashe  down  tfio 
drains  and  p.tch-holes  with  a  violence  which  shook  the  aVe  lands 
from  our  sturdy  wheels.*     Ascending,  the  driver  showed  a  place 


Chap.  I. 


METEOROLOGICAL  PHENONMENON. 


79 


where  the  skeleton  of  an  "elephant"  had  been  lately  discovered. 
On  the  summit  he  pointed  out,  far  over  many  a  treeless  hill  and 
barren  plain,  the  famous  Black  Hills  and  Laramie  Peak,  which 
has  been  compared  to  Ben  Lomond,  towering  at  a  distance  of 
eighty  miles.     The  descent  was  abrupt,  with  sudden  turns  round 
the  head  of  earth-cracks  deepened  to  ravines  by  snow  and  rain ; 
and  one  place  showed  the  remains  of  a  wagon  and  team  which  had 
lately  come  to  grief.    After  galloping  down  a  long  slope  of  twelve 
miles,  with  ridgelets  of  sand  and  gravel  somewhat  raised  above 
the  bottom,  which  they  cross  on  their  way  to  the  river,  we  found 
ourselves,  at  5  80  P.M.,  once  more  in  the  valley  of  the  Platte.     I 
had  intended  to  sketch  the  Bluffs  more  carefully  from  the  station, 
but  the  western  view  jiroved  to  be  disappointingly  inferior  to  the 
eastern.    After  the  usual  hour's  delay  we  resumed  our  drive 
through  alternate  p-ztfs  of  hot  and  cold  wind,  the  contrast  of  which 
was  not  easy  to  explain.     The  sensation  was  as  if  Indians  had  been 
firing  the  prairies — an  impossibility  at  this  season,  when  whatever 
herbage  there  is  is  still  green.     It  may  here  be  mentioned  that, 
although  the  meteorology  of  the  earlier  savans,  namely,  that  the 
peculiar  condition  of  the  atmosphere  known  as  the  Indian  sum- 
mer* might  be  produced  by  the  burning  of  the  plain- vegetation, 
was  not  thought  worthy  of  comment,  their  hypothesis  is  no  longer 
considered  trivial.    The  smoky  canopy  must  produce  a  sensible 
effect  upon  the  temperature  of  the  season.     "  During  a  still  night, 
when  a  cloud  of  this  kind  is  overhead,  no  dew  is  produced ;  the 
heat  which  is  radiated  from  the  earth  is  reflected  or  absorbed,  and 
radiated  back  again  by  the  particles  of  soot,  and  the  coating  of 
the  earth  necessary  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  water  in  the  form 
of  dew  or  hoar-frost  is  prevented."     According  to  Professor  Hen- 
ry, of  Washington,  "  it  is  highly  probable  that  a  portion  of  the 
smoke  or  fog-cloud  produced  by  the  burning  of  one  of  the  West- 
ern prairies  is  carried  entirely  across  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
continent  to  the  ocean." 

Presently  we  dashed  over  the  Little  Kiowa  Creek,  forded  the 
Horse  Creek,  and,  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  villainous  musquetoes, 

some  stream.     Tnint  or  varnish  is  of  little  use.    Moisture  may  be  drawn  out  even 
through  a  nail-holo,  and  exhaust  tlio  whole  interior  of  the  wood-work. 

•  These  remarks  are  borrowed  from  a  paper  by  Professor  Joseph  Ilenrv,  Secre- 
tary of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  entitled  "Meteorology  in  its  Connection  with 
Agriculture." 

The  Indian  summer  is  synonymous  with  our  St.  Martin's  or  Allhnllows  summer, 
so  called  from  the  festival  held  on  the  1 1th  of  November.  "  The  Indians  avail  tliem- 
wjlves  of  this  delightful  time  for  har%-esting  their  corn  ;  and  the  tradition  is  that  thev 
were  accustomed  to  say  thev  always  had  a  second  s.immcr  of  nine  days  before  the 
wiiiter  set  in.  It  is  a  bland  and  genial  time,  in  which  the  birds,  insects,  and  plants 
feel  a  new  creation,  and  enjoy  a  short-lived  summer  ero  thev  shrink  finally  from  the 
rigor  of  the  winter's  blast.  The  sky,  in  the  mean  time,  is  generally  filled  with  a  haze 
of  orange  and  gold,  intercepting  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  vet  possessing  enough  of 
light  and  heat  to  prevent  sensations  of  gloom  or  chill,  while  the  nights  grow  sharp 
and  frosty,  and  the  necessary  fires  give  cheerful  forecast  of  the  social  winter  evenings 
near  at  hand."— The  National  Inte/lf/epcer,  Nov.  26th,  1857,  quoted  by  Mr.Bartlott. 


1 


■     J 


80 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


entered  at  8  80  P.M.  the  station  in  which  we  were  to  pass  the 
night.    It  was  tenanted  by  one  Reynal,  a  French  Creole— the  son 
of  an  old  soldier  of  the  Grand  Armde,  who  had  settled  at  St.  Louis 
— a  companionable  man,  but  an  extortionate :  he  charged  us  a 
florin  for  every  "  drink"  of  his  well-watered  whisky.    The  house 
boasted  of  the  usual  squaw,  a  wrinkled  old  dame,  who  at  once  be- 
gan to  prepare  supper,  when  we  discreetly  left  the  room.    These 
hard-working  but  sorely  ill-favored  beings  are  accused  of  various 
horrors  in  cookery,  such  as  grinding  their  pinole,  or  parched  corn, 
in  the  impurest  manner,  kneading  dough  upon  the  floor,  using 
their  knives  for  any  purpose  whatever,  and  employing  the  same 
pot,  unwashed,  for  boiling  tea  and  tripe.    In  fact,  thev  are  about 
as  clean  as  those  Eastern  pariah  servants  who  make  the  knowing 
Anglo-Indian  hold  it  an  abomination  to  sit  at  meat  with  a  new 
arrival  or  with  an  officer  of  a  "  home  regiment."    The  daughter 
was  an  unusually  fascinating  half-breed,  with  a  pale  face  and 
Franco- American  features.     How  comes  it  that  here,  as  in  Hin 
dostan,  the  French  half-caste  is  pretty,  graceful,  amiable,  coquet 
tish,  while  the  Anglo-Saxon  is  plain,  coarse,  gauche,  and  ill-tem 
pered?    The  beauty  was  married  to  a  long,  lean  down-Easter 
who  appeared  most  jealously  attentive  to  her,  occasionally  hint' 
ing  at  a  return  to  the  curtained  bed,  where  she  could  escape  the 
admiring  glances  of  strangers.    Like  her  mother,  she  was  able  to 
sneak  English,  but  she  could  not  be  persuaded  to  open  her  mouth. 
This  is  a  truly  Indian  prejudice,  probably  arising  from  the  sav- 
age, childish  sensitiveness  which  dreads  to  excite  a  laugh ;  even 
a  squaw  married  to  a  white  man,  after  uttering  a  few  words  in  a 
moment  of  epanchement,  will  hide  her  face  under  the  blanket. 

The  half-breed  has  a  bad  name  in  the  land.    Like  the  negro, 
the  Indian  belongs  to  a  species,  sub-species,  or  variety — whichever 
the  reader  pleases — that  has  diverged  widely  enough  from  the 
Indo-European  type  to  cause  degeneracy,  physical  as  well  as  mor- 
al, and  often,  too,  sterility  in  the  offspring.    These  half-breeds  are, 
therefore,  like  the  mulatto,  quasi-mules.    The  men  combine  the 
features  of  both  races ;  the  skin  soon  becomes  coarse  and  wrin- 
kled, and  the  eye  is  black,  snaky,  and  glittering  like  the  Indian's. 
The  mongrels  are  short-lived,  peculiarly  subject  to  infectious  dis- 
eases, untrustworthy,  and  disposed  to  every  villainy.     The  half- 
breed  women,  in  early  youth,  are  sometimes  attractive  enough, 
uniting  the  figure  of  the  mother  to  the  more  delicate  American 
face :  a  few  years,  however,  deprive  them  of  all  litheness,  grace, 
and  agility.    They  are  often  married  by  whites,  who  hold  them 
to  be  more  modest  and  humble,  less  capricious  and  less  exacting, 
than  those  of  the  higher  type :  they  make  good  wives  and  affec- 
tionate mothers,  and,  like  the  Quadroons,  they  are  more  "  ambi- 
tious"—that  is  to  say,  of  warmer  temperaments— than  cither  of 
the  races  from  which  they  are  derived.     The  so-called  red  is  a 
higher  ethnic  typo  than  the  black  man ;  so,  in  the  United  States, 


Chap.  I. 


M.  REYNAL. 


81 


where  all  admixture  of  African  blood  is  deemed  impure,  the  abo- 
riginal American  entails  no  disgrace— some  of  the  noblest  of  the 
land  are  descended  from  "Indian  princesses."  The  half-breed 
girls  resemble  their  mothers  in  point  of  industry,  and  they  barter 
their  embroidered  robes  and  moccasins,  and  mats  and  baskets 
made  of  bark  and  bulrush,  in  exchange  for  blankets,  calicoes! 
glass  beads— an  indispensable  article  of  dress— mirrors  needles 
nngs,  yermUion,  and  other  luxuries.  The  children,  with  their 
large  black  eyes,  wide  mouths,  and  glittering  teeth,  flattened  heads, 
and  remarkable  agility  of  motion,  suggest  the  idea  of  little  ser- 
pents. 

The  day  had  been  fatiguing,  and  our  eyes  ached  with  the  wind 
and  dust.  We  lost  no  time  in  spreading  on  the  floor  the  buffalo 
robes  borrowed  from  the  house,  and  in  defying  the  smaller  ten- 
ants of  the  ranch.  Our  host,  M.Reynal,  was  a  study,  but  we  de- 
terred tJie  lesson  till  the  next  morning. 

114-   -D  1  1     J  1  ^^  ^''"''  ^""^w'^-     14«*  August. 

M.  Keynal  had  been  an  Indian  trader  in  his  youth.    Of  this 
race  there  were  m  his  day  two  varieties :  the  regular  trader  and 
the  coureur  des  hois,  or  unlicensed  peddler,  who  was  subject  to  cer- 
tain pains  and  penalties.    The  former  had  some  regard  for  his  fu- 
ture;  he  had  a  permanent  interest  in  the  Indians,  and  looked  to 
the  horses,  arms,  and  accoutrements  of  his  proteges,  so  that  hunting 
might  not  flag.    The  hois  hriiU  peddler,  having— like  an  English 
advertising  firm— no  hope  of  dealing  twice  with  the  same  person 
got  all  he  could  for  what  he  could.    These  men  soon  satjped  the 
foundation  of  the  Indian's  discipline.    One  of  them,  for  instance, 
would  take  protection  with  the  chief,  pay  presents,  and  by  increas- 
ing the  wealth,  enhance  the  importance  of  his  protector.    Anoth- 
er would  place  himself  under  the  charge  of  some  ambitious  as- 
pirant to  power,  who  was  thus  raised  to  a  position  of  direct  rival- 
ry.    A  split  would  ensue ;  the  weaker  would  secede  with  his 
family  and  friends,  and  declare  independence ;  a  murder  or  two 
would  be  the  result,  and  a  blood-feud  would  be  bequeathed  from 
generation  to  generation.    The  licensed  traders  have  ever  stren- 
uously opposed  the  introduction  of  alcohol,  a  keg  of  which  will 
purchase  from  the  Indian  every  thing  that  is  his,  his  arms,  lodge, 
horses,  children,  and  wives.    In  olden  times,  however,  the  M'-'.ie 
Liquor  Law  was  not,  as  now,  in  force  through  the  terncories. 
The  coureur  des  hois,  therefore,  entered  the  country  through  va- 
rious avenues,  from  the  Unitjd  States  and  from  Mexico,  without 
other  stock  in  trade  but  some  kegs  of  whisky,  which  he  retailed 
at  the  modest  price  of  $36  per  gallon.    He  usually  mixed  one 
part  of  fire  with  five  of  pure  water,  and  then  sold  a  pint-canful  for 
a  buflfalo  robe.     "  Indian  liquor"  became  a  proverbial  term.     Ac- 
cording to  some  travelers,  a  barrel  of  "pure  Cincinnati,"  even  aft- 
er running  the  gauntlet  of  railroad  and  lake  travel,  has  afforded  a 


I 


82 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I, 


hundred  barrels  of  "  good  Indian  liquor."  A  small  bucketful  is 
poured  into  a  wash-tub  of  water ;  a  large  quantity  of  "  dog-leg" 
tobacco  and  red  pepper  is  then  added,  next  a  bitter  root  common 
in  the  country  is  cut  up  into  it,  and  finally  it  is  colored  with 
burnt  sugar — ^a  nice  recipe  for  a  morning's  headache  I  The  only 
drawback  to  this  traffic  is  its  danger.  The  Indian,  when  intoxi- 
cated, is  ready  for  any  outrageous  act  of  violence  or  cruelty ;  vinos- 
ity  brings  out  the  destructiveness  and  the  utter  barbarity  of  his 
character ;  it  makes  him  thirst  tiger-like  for  blood.  The  coureur 
des  bois,  therefoia,  who  in  those  days  was  highly  respected,  was 
placed  in  the  Trader's  Lodge,  a  kind  of  public  house,  like  the 
Iwanza  of  Central  Africa,  and  the  village  chief  took  care  to  sta- 
tion at  the  door  a  guard  of  sober  youths,  sometimes  habited  like 
Europeans,  ready  to  check  the  unauthorized  attempts  of  ambitious 
clansmen  upon  the  whisky-vendor's  scalp.  The  Western  men, 
who  will  frequently  be  alluded  to  in  these  pages,  may  be  divided, 
like  the  traders,  into  two  classes.  The  first  is  the  true  mountain- 
eer, whom  the  platitude  and  tame  monotony  of  civilized  repub- 
lican life  has  in  early  youth  driven,  often  from  an  honored  and 
wealthy  family,  to  the  wilds  and  wolds,  to  become  the  forlorn 
hope  in  the  march  of  civilization.  The  second  is  the  offscouring 
and  refuse  of  the  Eastern  cities,  compelled  by  want,  fatuity,  or 
crime  to  exile  himself  from  all  he  most  loves.  The  former,  ailer 
passing  through  the  preliminary  stage  greenhorn,  is  a  man  in  ev- 
ery sense  of  the  term :  to  more  than  Indian  bravery  and  fortitude, 
he  unites  the  softness  of  woman,  and  a  child-like  simplicity,  which 
is  the  verv  essence  of  a  chivalrous  character;  you  can  read  his 
nature  in  nis  clear  blue  eyes,  his  sun-tanned  countenance,  bis  mer- 
ry smile,  and  his  frank,  fearless  manner.  The  latter  is  a  knave 
or  a  fool ;  it  would  make  "  bad  blood,"  as  the  Frenchman  says,  to 
describe  him. 

M.  Eeynal's  history  had  to  be  received  with  many  grains  of 
salt.  The  Western  man  has  been  worked  by  climate  and  its  con- 
sequences, by  the  huge  magnificence  of  nature  and  the  violent 
contrasts  of  scenery,  into  a  remarkable  resemblance  to  the  wild 
Indian.  He  hates  labor — which  poet  and  divine  combine  to  deify 
in  the  settled  states — as  the  dire  effect  of  a  primeval  curse;  "loaf" 
he  must  and  will ;  to  him  one  hour  out  of  the  twenty-four  spent 
in  honest  industry  is  satis  suj)erque.  His  imagination  is  inflamed 
by  scenery  and  climate,  difficulty  and  danger ;  he  is  as  supersti- 
tious as  an  old  man-o'-war's-man  of  the  olden  school ;  and  he  is  a 
transcendental  liar,  like  his  prototype  the  aborigine,  who  in  this 
point  yields  nothing  to  the  African  negro.  I  have  heard  of  a 
man  riding  eighty  i.:iile8 — forty  into  camp  and  forty  out — in  order 
to  enjoy  the  sweet  delights  of  a  lie.  His  yarns  and  stories  about 
the  land  he  lives  in  have  become  a  proverbial  ridicule ;  he  will 
tell  you  that  the  sun  rises  north  of  what  it  did  se  jiicero ;  ho  has 
seen  mountains  of  diamonds  and  gold  nuggets  scattered  like  rocks 


Chap.  I, 


M.  REYNAL. 


88 


over  the  surface  of  our  general  mother.  I  have  been  gravely  told 
of  a  herd  of  bison  which  arrested  the  course  of  the  Platte  Eiver 
causing  its  waters,  like  those  of  the  Red  Sea,  to  stand  up,  wall 
feshion,  while  the  animals  were  crossing.  Of  this  Western  order 
is  the  well-known  account  of  a  ride  on  a  buffalo's  horns,  deliver- 
ed for  the  benefit  of  a  gaping  world  by  a  popular  author  of  the 
vellow-binding  category.  In  this  age,  however,  the  Western  man 
has  become  sensitive  to  the  operation  of  "smoking."  A  popular 
Joe  Miller  i^n-nt  him  is  this :  A  traveler,  informed  of  what  he 
might  educe  by  "querying,"  asked  an  old  mountaineer, who  shall 
be  nameless,  what  difference  he  observed  in  the  country  since  he 
had  first  settled  in  it, 

"  Wal,  stranger,  not  much  I"  was  the  reply ;  "  only  when  I  fust 
come  here,  that  'ere  mountain,"  pointing  to  the  tall  Uinta  range, 
"  was  a  hole !" 

Disembarrassing  M.  Reynal's  recital  of  its  mask  of  improbabil- 
ities and  impossibilities,  remained  obvious  the  naked  fact  that  he 
had  led  the  life  of  a  confirmed  coureur  des  hois.  The  French  Ca- 
nadian and  Creole  both,  like  the  true  Franyais  de  France,  is  loth 
to  stir  beyond  the  devil-dispelling  sound  of  his  chapel-bell ;  once 
torn  from  his  c/jez  lui,  he  apparently  cares  little  to  return,  and, 
like  the  Englishman,  to  die  at  home  in  his  own  land.  The  ad- 
venturous Canadians — in  whom  extremes  meet — have  wandered 
through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  continent;  they  have  left 
their  mark  even  upon  the  rocks  in  Utah  Territory.  M.  Reynal 
had  quitted  St.  Louis  at  an  early  age  as  trader,  trapper,  every 
thing  in  short,  provided  with  a  little  outfit  of  powder,  ball,  and 
whisky.  At  first  he  was  unfortunate.  In  a  war  between  the 
Sioux  and  the  Pawnees,  he  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  latter,  and 
with  much  ado  preserved,  by  the  good  aid  of  his  squaw,  that  use- 
ful article  his  scalp.  Then  fickle  fortune  turned  in  his  favor. 
He  married  several  wives,  identified  himself  with  the  braves,  and 
became  a  little  brother  of  the  tribe,  while  his  whisky  brought  him 
in  an  abundance  of  furs  and  peltries.  After  many  years,  waxing 
wear;^  of  a  wandering  life,  he  settled  down  into  the  somewhat 
prosaic  position  in  which  we  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  him. 
He  was  garrulous  as  a  veteran  soldier  upon  the  subject  of  his  old 
friends  the  trappers,  that  gallant  advance  guard  who,  sixty  years 
ago,  unconsciously  fought  the  fight  of  civilization  for  the  pure 
lovQ  of  fightmg ;  who  battled  with  the  Indian  in  his  own  way, 
surpassing  him  in  tracking,  surprising,  ambuscading,  and  shoot- 
ing, and  never  failing  to  raise  the  enemy's  hair.  They  are  well- 
nigh  extinct,  those  old  pioneers,  wild,  reckless,  and  brave  as  the 
British  tar  of  a  century  past;  they  live  but  in  story;  their  place 
knows  them  no  longer;  it  is  now  filled  by  the  "prospector." 
Civilization  and  the  silk  hat  have  extcrmmated  them.  How 
manv  deeds  of  stern  fight  and  heroic  endurance  have  been  ignored 
by  this  world,  which  knows  nothing  of  its  greatest  men,  carent 


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84 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I, 


m 


qma  va(e  sacro  /    We  talk  of  Thermopylaj  and  ignore  Texas ;  we 
Jave  all  thrilled  at  the  account  of  the  Mameluke  Bey's  leap ;  but 
thTcHff  ?  ■''  °^  "^  ^^^^  ^^^^  °^  ^^"^'^^  MaccuUoch's  spring  from 
*i,  ^^^„^'"6akfaat  was  prepared  in  the  usual  prairie  style.    First 
the  coffee— three  parts  burnt  beans,  which  had  been  duly  ground 
to  a  fine  powder  and  exposed  to  the  air,  lest  the  aroma  should 
prove  too  strong  for  us— was  placed  on  the  stove  to  simmer  till 
every  noxious  principle  was  cfuly  extracted  from  it.    Then  the 
rusty  bacon,  cut  into  thick  slices,  was  thrown  into  the  fry-pan  • 
here  the  gridiron  is  unknown,  and  if  known  would  be  little  ap- 
preciated, because  it  wastes  the  "  drippings,"  which  form  with 
the  staff"  of  life  a  luxurious  sop.     Thirdly,  antelope  steak,  cut  off' 
a  corpse  suspended  for  the  benefit  of  flies  outside,  was  placed  to 
stew  within  influence  of  the  bacon's  aroma.     Lastly  came  the 
bread,  which  of  course  should  have  been  "cooked"  first     The 
meal  is  kneaded  with  water  and  a  pinch  of  salt;  the  raising  is 
done  by  means  of  a  little  sour  milk,  or  more  generally  by  the 
deleterious  yeast-powders  of  the  trade.     The  carbonic  acid  gas 
evolved  by  the  addition  of  water  must  be  corrected,  and  the 
dough  must  be  expanded  by  saleratus  or  prepared  carbonate  of 
soda  or  alkali,  and  other  vile  stuff",  which  communicates  to  the 
food  the  green-yellow  tinge  and  suggests  many  of  the  properties 
of  poison.   A  hundred-fold  better,  the  unpretending  chapati,  flap- 
jack, scone,  or,  aa  the  Mexicans  prettily  called  it,  "  tortilla '"    The 
dough  after  being  sufficiently  manipulated  upon  a  long,  narrow 
smooth  board,  is  divided  into  "biscuits"  and  "dough-nuts,"*  and 
finally  It  is  placed  to  be  half  cooked  under  the  immediate  influ- 
ence of  the  rusty  bacon  and  graveolent  antelope.     "  Uncle  Sam's 
stove,    be  it  said  with  every  reverence  for  the  honored  name  it 
bears,  is  a  tnumph  of  convenience,  cheapness,  unwholesomeness 
and  nastiness— excuse  the  word,  nice  reader.    This  travelers'  bane 
lias  exterminated  the  spit  and  gridiron,  and  makes  every  thine 
taste  like  Its  neighbor:  by  virtue  of  it,  mutton  borrows  the  fla- 
vor of  salmon  trout,  tomatoes  resolve  themselves  into  greens     I 
shall  lose  my  temper  if  the  subject  is  not  dropped 

We  set  out  at  6  A.M.  over  a  sandy  bottom,  from  which  the 
musquetoes  rose  in  swarms.  After  a  twelve-mile  stretch  the 
dnver  pointed  out  on  the  right  of  the  road,  which  here  runs  be- 
tween  high  earth-banks,  a  spot  still  infamous  in  local  story  At 
this  place,  m  1854,  five  Indians,  concealing  themselves  in  the  bed 
of  a  dwarf  arroyo,  fired  upon  the  mail- wagon,  killing  two  drivers 
and  one  passenger,  and  then  plundered  it  of  20;000  dollars. 

•  The  Western  "biscuit"  is  English  roll;   "cracker"  is  English  biscuit     The 
-dough-nut"  ,s,  properly  speaking,  a  "small  roundish  cake,  made  of  flour"  cS, 
and  sugar,  moistened  with  milk  and  boiled  in  lard"  (Webster).     On  the  onirics 
where  so  many  different  materials  are  unprocurable,  i  is  simply  a  diminut  vo  loaf 
like  the  hot  roU  of  the  English  passenger  steamer.  ^^     a.mmutivo  loaf, 


most  ever 


Chap.  I. 


LARAMIE  PEAK.— INDIAN  VILLAGES. 


85 


«'  Long-chin,"  the  leader,  and  the  other  murderers,  when  given 
up  by  the  tribe,  were  carried  to  Washington,  D.  C,  where— with 
the  ultra-philanthropy  which  has  of  modern  days  distinguished 
the  "Great  FatherV'  government  of  his  "Poor  Children  of  the 
Plains"— the  villains  were  liberallv  rewarded  and  restored  to  their 
homes.*  To  cut  off  a  bend  of  the  Platte  we  once  more  left  the 
valley,  ascended  sundry  slopes  of  sand  and  clay  deeply  cut  by  dry 
creeks,  and  from  the  summit  enjoyed  a  pretty  view.  A  little  to 
the  left  rose  the  aerial  blue  cone  of  that  noble  landmark,  Laramie 
Peak,  based  like  a  mass  of  solidified  air  upon  a  dark  wall,  the 
Black  Hills,  and  lit  up  with  the  roseate  hues  of  the  morning. 
The  distance  was  about  sixty  miles ;  you  would  have  guessed 
twenty.  On  the  right  lay  a  broad  valley,  bounded  by  brown 
rocks  and  a  plain-colored  distance,  with  the  stream  winding 
through  it  like  a  thread  of  quicksilver;  in  places  it  war  hidden 
from  sight  by  thickets  of  red  willow,  cypress  clumps,  and  dense 
cool  cotton-woods.  All  was  not  still  life:  close  below  us  rose 
the  white  lodges  of  the  Ogalala  tribe. 

These  Indian  villages  are  very  picturesque  from  afar  when 
dimly  seen  dotting  the  verdure  of  the  valleys,  and  when  their 
tall  white  cones,  half  hidden  by  willow  clumps,  lie  against  a  blue 
background.  The  river  side  is  the  savages'  favorite  site;  next  to 
it  the  hill  foot,  where  little  groups  of  three  or  four  tents  are  often 
Meen  from  the  road,  clustering  mysteriously  near  a  spring.  Al- 
most every  prairie-band  has  its  own  way  of  constructing  lodges, 
encamping  and  building  fires,  and  the  experienced  mountaineer 
easily  distinguishes  them. 

The  Osages  make  their  lodges  in  the  shape  of  a  t^agon-tilt, 
somewhat  like  our  gipsies'  tents,  with  a  frame- work  cf  bent  wil- 
low rods  planted  in  the  ground,  and  supporting  their  blankets, 
skins,  or  tree-basts. 

The  Kickapoos  build  dwarf  hay-stack  huts,  like  some  tribes  of 
Africans,  setting  poles  in  the  earth,  binding  them  o\?t  and  lash- 
ing them  together  at  the  top ;  they  are  generally  covered  with 
clothes  or  bark. 

The  Witchetaws,  Wakoes,  Towakamis,  and  Tonkowas  are  de- 
scribed by  the  "  Prairie  Traveler"  as  erecting  their  hunting  lodges 
of  sticks  put  up  in  the  form  of  the  frustrum  of  a  cone,  and  bushed 
over  like  "  boweries." 

All  these  tribes  leave  the  frame-work  of  their  lodges  standing 
when  they  shift  ground,  and  thus  the  particular  band  is  readily 
recognized. 

•  A  United  States  official,  fresh  from  Columbia,  informed  me  that  the  Indians 

Ul^'"^.  T?  ^^^°'*t,""y  '""'■'^"'  *  ^'"8  Georce's  man  (Briton),  while  they 
hardly  iiesitate  to  kill  a  Boston  man  or  American  citizen.  Ho  attributed  this  pe- 
culiarity principally  to  the  over  lenity  of  his  own  Rovemment,  and  its  want  of  per- 
sUtency  in  ferreting  out  and  punishing  the  criminal.  Under  these  circumstances,  it 
18  hardly  to  bo  wondered  at  if  the  trader  and  traveler  in  Indian  countries  take  the 
law  in  their  own  hands.  This  excessive  clemency  has  acted  evilly  in  "either  Ind." 
We  may  hope  that  its  day  is  now  gone  by. 


! 


86 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I, 


The  Sacs,  Foxes,  Winnebagoes,  and  Menomenes  build  lodges 
in  the  form  of  an  ellipse,  some  of  them  30—40  feet  long,  by  14-— 
15  wide,  and  large  enough  to  shelter  twenty  people  permanently, 
and  sixty  temporarily.*  The  covering  is  of  plaited  rush-mats 
bound  to  the  poles,  and  a  small  aperture  in  the  lodge  acts  as 
chimney.  / 

The  Delawares  and  Shawnees,  Cherokees  and  Choctaws,  prefer 
the  Indian  pal,  a  canvas  covering  thrown  like  a  ieiite  cfabn  over 
a  stick  supported  by  two  forked  poles. 

The  Sioux,  Arapahoes,  Cheyennes,  Utahs,  Snakes,  Blackfeet, 
and  Kiowas  use  the  Comanche  lodge  covered  with  bison  skins, 
which  by  dressing  become  flexible  as  canvas.     They  are  usually 
of  a  shining  white,  save  where  smoke-stained  near  the  top ;  the 
lodges  of  great  chiefs  are  sometimes  decorated  with  horizontal 
stripes  of  alternate  black  and  white,  and  ornamented  with  figures 
liuman  and  bestial,  crosses,  circles,  and  arabesques.    The  lodge  is 
made  of  eight  to  twenty-four  straight  peeled  poles  or  saplings  of 
nsh,  pine,  cedar,  or  other  wood,  hard  and  elastic  if  possible,  about 
20  feet  long ;  the  largest  marquees  are  30  feet  in  diameter  by  35 
feet  high,  and  are  comprised  of  26—30  buffalo  skins;  and  they 
are  sometimes  planted  round  a  "  basement"  or  circular  excavation 
two  or  three  feet  deep.    When  pitching,  three  poles  lashed  to  one 
another  with  a  long  line,  somewhat  below  the  thinner  points,  are 
ra,ised  perpendicularly,  and  the  thicker  ends  are  spread  out  in  a 
tripod  to  the  perimeter  of  the  circle  which  is  to  form  the  lodge 
floor ;  the  rest  of  the  poles  arc  then  propped  against  the  three  first, 
and  disposed  regularly  and  e(iuidistantly  to  make  a  steady  and  se- 
cure conical  frame-work.     The  long  line  attached  to  the  tripod  is 
then  wound  several  times  round  the  point  where  the  poles  touch, 
and  the  lower  end  is  made  fast  to  the  base  of  the  lodge,  thus  secur- 
ing the  props  in  position.     The  covering  of  dressed,  hairless,  and 
water-proof  cow-buftalo  hide — traders  ])rofor  osnaburg — cut  and 
.sewn  to  fit  the  frame  like  an  envelope,  and  sometimes  pinned  to- 
gether with  skewers,  is  either  raised  at  first  with  the  tripod,  or 
afterward  hoisted  with  a  perch  and  spread  round  the  complete 
structure.    It  is  pinned  to  the  ground  with  wooden  pegs,  and  a 
narrow  space  forms  a  doorway,  whicli  may  be  closed  with  a  blan- 
ket suspended  from  above  and  spread  out  with  two  small  sticks. 
The  apex  is  left  open  with  a  triangular  win^  or  flap,  like  a  lateen 
sail,  and  is  prevented  from  closing  by  a  pole  inserted  into  a  pocket 
at  the  end.    The  aperture  points  to  windward  when  ventilation 
IS  required,  and,  drawing  like  a  wind-sail,  it  keeps  the  interior  cool 
and  comfortable ;  when  smoke  is  to  bo  carried  ofl',  it  is  turned  to 
leeward,  thus  giving  draught  to  the  fire,  and  making  the  abode 
warm  in  the  severest  weather;  while  in  lodges  of  other  forms, 

•  The  wiRWRin^  hnui,  or  rshiim  of  the  F.Mtorn  Amprirnn  trilx>n  wore  llko  theiia 
Mrjfp,  no  i(',  nnd  well  nx.fp.l  with  Nkinx.  TJio  word  "lml([(."  in  uiually  applied  to 
the  Biuallor  and  luw  comforloblo  tmbitatiuru  of  tijc  I'rtirio  IndiuM. 


Chap.  I. 


THE  "  SIBLEY  TENT." 


87 


you  must  lie  down  on  the  ground  to  prevent  being  asphyxiated. 
By  raising  the  lower  part  so  as  freely  to  admit  the  breeze,  it  is 
kept  perfectly  free  from  musquetoes,  which  are  unable  to  resist 
the  strong  draught.    The  squaws  are  always  the  tent-pitchers, 
and  they  equal  Orientals  in  dexterity  and  judgment.    Before  the 
lodge  of  each  warrior  stands  his  light  spear,  planted  Bedouin-fash- 
ion in  the  ground,  near  or  upon  a  tripod  of  thin,  cleanly-scraped 
wands,  seven  to  eight  feet  long,  which  support  his  spotless  white 
buffalo-skin  targe,  sometimes  decorated  with  his  "totem'" — we 
translate  the  word  "crest" — and  guarded  by  the  usual  prophy- 
lactic, a  buckskin  sack  containing  medicine.    Readers  of  "  Ivan- 
hoe" — they  are  now  more  numerous  in  the  New  than  in  the  Old 
Country — ever  feel  "  a  passing  impulse  to  touch  one  of  these  spot- 
less shields  with  the  muzzle  of  the  gun,  expecting  a  grim  warrior 
to  start  from  the  lodge  and  resent  the  challenge."    The  fire,  as  in 
the  old  Hebridean  huts,  is  built  in  the  centre  of  the  hard  dirt  floor; 
a  strong  stick  planted  at  the  requisite  angle  supports  the  kettle, 
and  around  the  walls  are  berths  divided  by  matted  screens ;  the 
extremest  uncleanliness,  however,  is  a  feature  never  absent.    In 
a  quiet  country  these  villages  have  a  simple  and  patriarcha'  ap- 
pearance.   The  tents,  which  number  from  fifteen  to  fifty,  are  dis- 
posed round  a  circular  central  space,  where  animals  can  be  teth- 
ered.   Some  have  attached  to  them  corrals  of  wattled  canes,  and 
a  few  boast  of  fields  where  corn  and  pumpkins  are  raised. 

The  Comanche  lodge  is  the  ^  ivorite  tenement  of  the  Canadian 
and  Creole  voyageurs,  on  account  of  its  coolness  or  warmth  when 
wanted,  its  security  against  violent  winds,  and  its  freedom  from 
musquetoes.  While  traveling  in  an  Indian  country  they  will  use 
no  other.  It  has  been  simplified  by  Major  H.  H.  Sibley,  of  the 
United  States  Army,  who  has  changed  the  pole  frame-work  for  a 
single  central  uprignt,  resting  upon  an  iron  tripod,  with  hooks  for 
suspending  cooking  utensils  over  the  fire ;  when  folded  up,  the 
tripod  admits  the  upright  between  its  legs,  thereby  reducing  the 
length  to  one  half— a  portable  size.  The  "  Sibley  tent"  was  the 
only  shelter  of  the  United  States  Army  at  Fort  Scott,  in  Utah 
Territory,  during  the  hard  winter  of  1857-8,  and  gave  universal 
satisfaction.  The  officers  still  keep  to  the  old  wall-tent.  This 
will,  however,  eventually  be  superseded  by  the  now  form,  which 
can  accommodate  comfortably  twelve,  but  not  seventeen,  the  usual 
number  allottml  to  it.  Captain  Marcy  is  of  opinion  that  of  the 
tenia  used  in  tiio  different  armies  of  Europe,  "none  in  point  of 
convenience,  comfort,  and  economy  will  compare  with  the  'Sibley 
tent'  for  campaigning  in  cold  weather."  In  summer,  however,  it 
has,  like  all  conical  tents,  many  disadvantages:  there  is  always  a 
loss  of  room;  and  for  comfortably  disposing  kit — chair,  table,  and 
camp  couch — there  is  nothing  equal  to  the  wall-tent.  The  price 
of  a  "Sibley,"  when  made  of  good  material,  is  from  $40  to  $60 
(£8 — £10),  and  it  can  be  procured  from  Baltimore,  Philadelphia, 


■1 

.   ML 

88 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


^Al  ^?  ^  -^-  ^^  ^^^^^  *°  °^ange  mules  at  Badeau's  Ranch 
S,-t  "1-/^  "^^""^  grandiloquently  called,  "Laramie  City."  The 
Jt^'  f  .r-^  "'^''7  ^  Western  » town,"  still  appertains  to  the  cate- 
gory ot  things  about  to  be;  it  is  at  present  represented  by  a  sin- 
gle large  store,"  with  out-houses  full  of  small  half-breeds.  The 
principal  articles  of  traffic  are  liquors  and  groceries  for  the  whites 
and  ornaments  for  the  Indians,  which  are  bartered  for  stock  (i  e! 
If'^ffioT^  P«^f  ^««-     The  prices  asked  for  the  skins  were  from 

lV~*  fi  21  5  ^°^  °^  ^  ^y^^'  ^^  ^°^  ^o^f'  bear,  or  deer,  $6— $7 
tor  an  elk,  $5  for  a  common  buffalo,  and  from  $8  to  $36  for  the 
same  painted,  pictographed,  and  embroidered.  Some  of  the  party 
purchased  moccasins,  for  which  they  paid  $1— $2:  the  best  arti- 
cles are  made  by  the  Snakes,  and  when  embroidered  by  white 
women  rise  as  high  as  $26.  I  bought,  for  an  old  friend  who  is 
insane  upon  the  subject  of  pipes,  one  of  the  fine  marble-like  sand- 
stone bowls  brought  from  the  celebrated  Coteau  (slope)  des  Prai- 
ries, at  the  head  of  Sioux  Riyer—  f  J  ^^^  -rrai 

**0n  the  mountains  of  tho  Prairie, 
On  tho  Great  lied  Pipe-8tonc  Quarry." 

atJi-^  instrument  is  originally  the  gift  of  Gitchie  Manitou,  who, 
?mSl^.°''^^'  P'f^'P;^  ?^*^^  ^^^  Pipe-stone  Rock,  brok^  off"  a 
h?ST.  ""T-^'l  ^V"*^  "  P'r'  ''^'^^'  fi"^«l^«d  With  a  reed, 
he  smoked  oyer  his  children  to  the  north,  south,  east,  and  west 

bv  thi  Tu'  '-^^'  not  unlike  the  clay  and  steatite  articles  used 
by  the  Abyssinians  and  the  Turi  or  Sinaitic  Bedouins.    The 
length  of  the  stick  is  23  inches,  of  the  stem  9-60,  and  of  the  bowl 
o  mches ;  the  latter  stands  at  a  right  angle  upon 'the  former   bol 
are  circular;  but  the  276  inches^f  stem,  wliich  project  [eyond 
the  bowl  are  beyelcd  off  so  as  to  form  an  edge  at  the  end  ^Thc 
pecu  lanty  of  the  form  is  in  the  part  where  L  tobacco  s  insert 
od;  the  hu  e  IS  not  more  than  half  an  inch  broad,  and  descends 
s  might  without  a  bulge,  while  the  aperture  in  the  sC  is  cxacth' 
ZulTu  ^^''  ''^.'°^^-''  ^.°'^"  "pottles  and  the  bowl  clogs  if  smoked 
with  tobacco ;  m  fact,  it  is  fit  for  nothing  but  the  "  kiSnikinTk"  of 
the  LKlians.     To  prepare  this  hard  material  with  the  rude  tools 
of  a  sayagc  must  be  awork  of  time  and  difficulty;  also  the  b^wls 
are  exDcna.ye  and  highly  valued :  for  mine  I  pai.  $5  and  farther 
West  t  could  hay.  exchanged  it  for  an  Indiarf  pont  ^'' 

Having  finished  our  empktf^  at  M.  Jiadeau's,  io  set  out  at  11  80 
P.M.  over  a  barren  and  reeking  bit  of  sand v  soil     fW  fZ.? 
.station,  and  a  liulo  to  th<  rigl/of  the  ro^r^^  ,lod  t^rt^ 
which  contains  tho  remains  of  Lieutenant  Orattan  and  Lil  irtv 
men     A  young  second  lieutenant  of  Irish  origh   a,  l£y  S 
per,  he  was  marching  westward  with  an  interpreter  a  smalfbodl 
of  men  and  two  howitzers,  wIkmi  a  dispute  aroso  it  is  sS  aS 
a  cow,  xnween  his  party  and  the  Hruh£  or  Bu^lTHgT?;] its 
Tho  latter  were  cnca.nned  in  a  vilhigo  of  460  to  600  l.is  which 
reckoning  five  to  eacfi,  gives  a  total  of  2200  to  2600  ^^k    A 


)reseryec 


Chap.  I. 


THE  BRUL^S  AND  GENERAL  HARNEY. 


89 


fight  took  place ;  the  whites  iuiprudently  discharged  both  their 
cannon,  overshooting  the  tents  of  the  enemy ;  their  muskets,  how- 
ever, did  more  execution,  killing  Matriya,  "  the  Scattering  Bear," 
who  had  been  made  chief  of  all  the  Sioux  by  Colonel  Mitchell  of 
the  Indian  Bureau.  The  savages,  seeing  the  fall  of  Ursa  Major, 
set  to  in  real  earnest ;  about  1200  charged  the  soldiers  before  they 
could  reload ;  the  little  detachment  broke,  and  not  a  man  sur- 
vived to  tell  the  tale.  The  whites  in  the  neighborhood  narrowly 
preserved  their  scalps — M.Badeau  owned  that  he  owed  his  to  his 
Sioux  squaw — and  among  other  acts  of  violence  was  the  murder 
and  highway  robbery  which  has  already  been  recounted.  Both 
these  events  occurred  in  1854.  As  has  been  said,  in  1855,  Gen- 
eral W.  S.  Harney,  who,  whatever  may  be  his  faults  as  a  diplo- 
matist, is  the  most  dreaded  "Minahaslca"*  in  the  Indian  country, 
punished  the  Brules  severely  at  Ash  Hollow.  They  were  led  by 
their  chosen  chief  Little  Thunder,  who,  not  liking  the  prospect, 
wanted  to  palaver;  the  general  replied  by  a  charge,  which,  ai 
usual,  scattered  the  "chivalry  of  the  prairies"  to  the  four  winds. 
"Little  Thunder"  was  solemnly  deposed,  and  Mato  Chigukesa, 
"Bear's  Rib,"  was  ordered  to  reign  in  his  stead;  moreover,  in 
1856,  a  treaty  was  concluded,  giving  to  whites,  among  other 
things,  the  privilege  of  making  roads  along  the  Platte  and  White- 
Earth  Rivers  (Mankisita  Wakpa — Smoking-earth  Water)  to  Forts 
Pierre  and  Laramie,  and  to  pass  up  and  down  the  Missouri  in 
boats.  Since  that  time,  with  the  exception  of  plundering  an  En- 
glish sportsman.  Sir  G G ,  opposing  Lieutenant  Warren's 

expedition  to  the  Black  Hills,  and  slaughtering  a  few  traders  and 
obscure  travelers,  the  Brilles  have  behaved  tolerably  to  their  pale- 
face rivaL. 

As  we  advanced  the  land  became  more  barren ;  it  sadly  want- 
ed rain :  it  suffers  from  drought  almost  every  year,  and  what  veg- 
etable matter  the  soil  will  produce  the  grasshopper  will  devour. 
Dead  cattle  cumbered  the  way-side ;  the  flesh  had  disappeared ; 
the  bones  were  scattered  over  the  ground ;  but  the  skins,  mum- 
mified, a.s  it  were,  by  the  dry  heat,  lay  life-like  and  shapeless,  as 
in  the  Libyan  Desert,  upon  the  ground.  This  phenomenon  will 
last  till  we  enter  the  humid  regions  between  the  Sierra  Nevada 
and  the  Pacific  Occpn,  and  men  tell  wonderful  tales  of  the  time 
during  which  meat  can  be  kept.  The  road  was  a  succession  of 
steep  ascents  and  jumps  down  sandy  ground.  A  Sioux  "buck," 
mounted  upon  a  neat  nag,  and  wrapped  up,  despite  sun  and  glare, 
as  if  it  had  been  the  depth  of  winter,  passed  us,  sedulously  avert- 
ing his  eyes.    The  driver  declared  that  he  recognized  the  horse, 

•  "Lonstknifo."  The  rhiteghnro  enjoyed  lliin  title  sinre  1758.  when  Captnin  Oib- 
»on  flit  off  with  l)i«  •B)>r<'  the  Iwu'l  of  Little  EhkIp,  flic  jjrcnt  MiiiRw  or  Cliiof,  and 
won  tlio  title  of  Hin-Knifo  Warrior.  SnvnKcn  in  Amoiicu  as  well  an  Africa  wli'o  ig. 
noro  the  »word  nlwayit  look  uinin  that  weaiton  with  horror.  The  tjioux  call  the 
American!  Waiichi,  ur  bad  men. 


iJ 


90 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


and  grumbled  certain  Western  facetias  concerning  "hearty-chokes 
and  caper  sauce." 

In  these  lands  the  horse-thief  is  the  great  enemy  of  mankind; 
for  him  there  is  no  pity,  no  mercy ;  Lynch-law  is  held  almost  too 
good  for  him ;  to  shoot  him  in  flagrante  delicto  is  like  slaying  a 
man-eating  Bengal  royal  tiger— it  entitles  you  to  the  respect  and 
gratitude  of  your  species.  I  asked  our  conductor  whether  dandi- 
ness  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  "  buck's"  heavy  dress.  *'  'Guess," 
was  the  reply,  "  what  keeps  cold  out,  keeps  heat  out  tew  I" 

At  12  15  P.M.,  crossing  Laramie's  Fork,  a  fine  clear  stream 
about  forty  yards  broad,  we  reached  Fort  Laramie  —  another 
"fort"  by  courtesy,  or  rather  by  order— where  we  hoped  to  re- 
cruit our  exhausted  stores. 

The  straggling  cantonment  requires  no  description :  it  has  the 
usual  big  flag,  barracks,  store-houses,  officers'  quarters,  guard- 
houses, sutlei-s' stores,  and  groceries,  which  doubtless  make  a  good 
thing  by  selling  deleterious  "strychnine"  to  passing  trains  who 
can  afford  to  pay  $6  per  gallon. 

Fort  Laramie,  called  Bort  John  in  the  days  of  the  American 
Fur  Company,  was  used  by  them  as  a  store-house  for  the  bear  and 
buffalo  skins,  which  they  collected  in  thousands.     The  old  adobe 
enceinte,  sketched  and  described  by  Frdmont  and  Stansbury,  soon 
disappeared  after  the  place  was  sold  to  the  United  States  govern- 
ment.    Its  former  rival  was  Fort  Platte,  belonging  in  1842— when 
the  pale  face  first  opened  this  roa  ■  -to  Messrs.  Sybille,  Adams, 
and  Co.,  and  situated  immediately  on  the  point  of  land  at  the 
junction  of  Laramie  Fort  with  the  Platte.     The  climate  here  is 
arid  and  parching  in  summer,  but  in  winter  tolerably  mild,  con- 
sidering the  altitude — i470  feet— and  the  proximity  of  the  Black 
Hills;  yet  it  has  seen  hard  fro.st  in  September.     It  is  also  well 
defended  from  the  warm,  moist,  and  light  winds,  which,  coming 
from  the  Mexican  Gulf,  cause  "  calentures"  on  the  lower  courae 
of  the  river.     The  soil  around  the  settlement  is  gravelly  and  ster- 
ile, the  rocks  are  sand,  lime,  and  clay,  and  there  is  a  solitary,  des- 
o  ate  look  upon  every  thing  but  the  bright  little  stream  that  bub- 
bles from  the  dark  heights.     The  course  is  from  S. W  to  N  E  • 
about  half  way  it  bifurcates,  with  a  right  fork  to  the  west  and 
main  lork  east,  and  near  Laramie  it  receives  its  main  affluent,  the 
Chugwatcr.  ^ 

My  companion  kindly  introduced  me  to  the  officer  command- 
ing the  fort,  Colonel  B.  Alexander,  lOth  Infantry,  and  wo  were 
at  oneo  made  at  home.  The  amiable  mistress  of  the  house  must 
find  chantable  work  enough  to  do  in  providing  for  the  wants  of 
way-worn  fnends  who  pass  through  liaramic  from  east  to  west. 
We  rested  and  dined  in  the  cool  comfortable  quarters,  with  only 
one  qualm  at  heart— wo  wore  so  soon  to  leave  them.  On  these* 
occasMns  the  driver  seems  to  know  by  instinct  that  you  are  en- 
joying yourself,  while  he,  as  an  outsider,  is  not    llo  becomes, 


Chap.  I. 


HORSESHOE  STATION.— "LADIES." 


91 


therefore,  unusually  impatient  to  start ;  perhaps,  also,  time  runs 
more  rapidly  than  it  is  wont.  At  any  rate,  after  a  short  two 
hours,  we  were  compelled  to  shake  hands  with  our  kind  and  con- 
siderate hosts,  and  to  return  to  limbo — the  mail-wagon. 

From  Fort  Laramie  westward  the  geological  formation  changes; 
the  great  limestone  deposits  disappear,  and  are  succeeded  by  a  great 
variety  of  sandstones,  some  red,  argillaceous,  and  compact ;  others 
gray  or  yellow,  ferruginous,  and  coarse.  Pudding-stones  or  con- 
glomerates also  abound,  and  the  main  chain  of  the  Laramie  Mount- 
ains is  supposed  to  be  chiefly  composed  of  this  rock. 

Beyond  the  fort  there  are  two  roads.  The  longer  leads  to  the 
right,  near  the  Platte  River.  It  was  formerly,  and  perhaps  is 
still,  a  favorite  with  emigrants.  We  preferred  the  left,  which, 
crossing  the  edges  of  the  Black  Hills,  is  rough  and  uneven,  but  is 
"some  shorter,  as  the  guide-book  says,  than  the  other.  The 
weather  began  to  be  unusually  disagreeable  with  heat  and  rain- 
drops from  a  heavy  nimbus,  that  forced  us  to  curtain  up  the  rat- 
tling vehicle ;  perhaps,  too,  we  were  a  little  cross,  contrasting  the 
present  with  the  past — civilized  society,  a  shady  bungalow,  and 
wonderfully  good  butter.  At  4  P.M.,  following  the  Platte  Valley, 
after  two  hours'  drive  we  halted  to  change  mules  at  Ward's  Sta- 
tion, alias  the  "  Central  Star,"  where  several  whites  were  killed 
by  the  Sioux  in  1855,  among  them  M.  Montalan,  a  Parisian. 

Again  we  started  for  another  twenty-five  miles  at  4  P.M.  The 
road  was  rough,  and  the  driver  had  a  curious  proclivity  for  los- 
ing the  way.  I  have  often  found  this  to  be  the  case  after  passing 
through  a  station.  There  was  little  to  remark,  except  that  the 
country  was  poor  and  bad,  that  there  was  clear  water  m  a  ravine 
to  the  right,  and  that  we  were  very  tired  and  surly.  But  as  sor- 
row comes  to  an  end  as  well  as  joy,  so,  at  9  30  P.M.,  we  drove  in, 
somewhat  consoled,  to  Horseshoe  Station — the  old  Fer  d  Ckeval — 
where  one  of  the  road  agents,  Mr.  Slade,  lived,  and  where  wo  an- 
ticipated superior  comfort. 

Wo  were  cntiches  by  the  aspect  of  the  buildings,  which  were  on 
an  extensive  scale  —  in  fact,  got  up  regardless  of  expense.  An 
ominous  silence,  however,  reigned  around.  At  last,  by  hard 
knocking,  wc  were  admitted  intt)  a  house  with  the  Floridian  style 
of  veranda  previously  described,  and  by  the  pretensions  of  the 
room  we  at  once  divined  our  misfortune — wo  were  threatened 
with  a  " lady."  The  "  lady"  will,  alas!  follow  us  to  the  Pacific; 
even  in  hymns  we  read, 

"  Now  lot  tlio  Prophet's  hcnrt  rejoice, 
IIU  noblu  lady's  too." 

Our  mishap  was  really  worse  than  we  expected — wo  were  ex- 
posed to  two  "  ladies,''  and  of  these  one  was  r  Bloomer.  It  is 
only  fair  to  state  that  it  was  the  only  hermaphrodite  of  the  kind 
that  ever  met  my  eyes  in  tlio  Uiutcd  States ;  tlio  great  foimdcr  of 
the  order  has  long  since  subsided  into  her  original  obscurity,  and 


I 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  I. 


RlL,^/      ^^®  relapsed  into  the  weakness  of  petticoats.    The 

SDeX/^.wS°'°"*^  5rS'  ^''  ^^^'  «^t  levfl  with  her  eyes 
depended  with  the  graceful  curl  of  a  drake's  tail  around  a  flat 

flL         i5-  H°^^'^T^^^;  g^^e^  brown  calico,  fitted  her  somewhat 
^4d  onlv  in  W°^°'  ^'^f  °P^"?  haunches 'which  would  be  ad- 
t^ie  I     «  f  fSr  ''•«  '  «^/-«""0'^  inconsequence  of  woman's  na- 
^d  n;;7nil    fT"^°^  of  appearance  upon  the  shrine  of  comfort 
cad  not  prevent  her  wearing  that  kind  of  crinoline  deoicted  hv 
b^-^'^r^P^?,  "T  ^^^/Hanne."    The  panta£Ls  ?f  glazS 
mv  Ln/'S  ^'^' •  *^'  T*"  *"T'  ^°"««'  «^'^*'  ^'  whatevef  they 
JSfL^li  V^^^^^-S  ?^g-*°P  '*^^^'  admirably  setting  oflFa  pair  of 
thm-soled  Frenchified  patent-leather  bottines,  with  elastic  SdS 
Ztf  ^f'T^  ^'''  ^^'Se,hToad,  and  flat  as  a  negro's  in U-nS 
wezi.    The  dear  creature  had  a  husband :  it  waf  hardly  saS^ 
look  at  her,  and  as  for  sketching  her,  I  avoided  it  as  r^en  are  bi^ 
other  ^ladvCo!fr°^^  '^^  way  of  Slick  of  TenneTee     The 
this  wild  mrt  ofTl?^  "'*','?  ^"^"^^^  ^"^'•"^'  *^««  ^^^^  women  in 
mSner  fSl  nf  »    '  world  generally -cold  and  disagreeable  in 

"rndedme^fiS^^^^^'    ^''^  '  touch-me-not%  which 


-„,       ,     ^  "Miss  Baxter, 

Who  refused  a  man  before  he  axed  her.' 


Her  husband  was  the  renowned  Slade  : 

"Of  gougers  fierce,  the  eyes  that  pierce,  the  fiercest  gonger  he." 
His  was  a  noted  name  for  'deadly  strife;"  he  had  the  renutation 
of  having  killed  his  three  men;  and  a  few  days  aftemard    he 
grave  that  concealed  one  of  his  murders  was  pointed  out  to  me 
This  pleasant  individual  "for  an  evening  party"  wore  the  re' 

raterin'SllTT^"'^  ^^'?'-*^^^^'  ^"^  ^^^^^  where  He  had 
M  Si  ^^^'  ''^u  "  '  ''^"g  ^"°*  "«*  ^  forget  his  weapon.  One 
M.  Jules  a  French  trader,  after  a  quarrel  which  took  place  at  Tn 
ner,  walked  up  to  him  and  fired^a  pistol,  woundiL^hTmfn  the 
breast  As  he  rose  to  run  away  Julei  discharged  a  second  wh  ch 
took  effect  upon  his  back,  and  then,  without  living  him  time  t^ 
arm  fetched  a  gun  and  favored  him  with  a  lose  ?f  s WsTom^ 
what  larger  than  revolver  bullete.  The  fiery  FrcnchmaXd  twn 
narrow  escapes  from  Lynch-lawyers :  twiccTie  Z  hr^ltti 
wagons,  and^  as  often  lie  was  cut  S^w^   At  1^  h    r  1^  ^'5 

of  blood  threatens  to  follow  him  up^,  but  as^et  he  has  taken^no 

It  at  once  became  evident  that  the  station  was  condurt^rl  i,n«r, 

the  pnnop le  of  the  Western  hotel-keeper  ofTe  Z  g  ^ei 

«nd  of  Continental  Europe  about  A.U  16U0-the  innSr  of 

'Anne  of  Geierstein"- that  is  to  say,  for  his  own  convSce 

the  public  there  was  the  last  thing  th^ight  of    One  of  ou?  par^^ 


mm* 


ren, 


Chap.  11. 


"LADIES."— THE  SIOUX. 


96 


who  had  ventured  into  the  kitchen  was  fiercely  ejected  by  the 
"  ladies."  In  asking  about  dormitories  we  were  informed,  that 
"  lady  travelers"  were  admitted  into  the  house,  but  that  the  ruder 
sex  must  sleep  where  it  could — or  not  sleep  at  all  if  it  preferred. 
We  found  a  barn  outside :  it  was  hardly  fit  for  a  decently  brought- 
up  pig ;  the  floor  was  damp  and  knotty ;  there  was  not  even  a 
door  to  keep  out  the  night  breeze,  now  becoming  raw,  and  sev- 
eral drunken  fellows  lay  in  different  parts  of  it.  Two  were  in  one 
bunk,  embracing  maudlingly,  and  freely  calling  for  drinks  of  wa- 
ter. Into  this  disreputable  hole  we  were  all  thrust  for  the  night : 
among  us,  it  must  be  remembered,  was  a  federal  judge,  who  had 
officiated  for  years  as  minister  at  a  European  court.  His  position, 
poor  man !  procured  him  nothing  but  a  broken-down  pallet.  It 
was  his  first  trip  to  the  Far  West,  and  yet,  so  easily  are  Amer- 
icans satisfied,  and  so  accustomed  are  they  to  obey  the  ridiculous 
jack-in-office  who  claims  to  be  one  of  the  powers  that  be,  he 
scarcely  uttered  a  complaint.  I,  for  one,  grumbled  myself  to 
sleep.  May  gracious  Heaven  keep  us  safe  from  all  *'  ladies"  in 
future !  better  a  hundred  times  the  squaw,  with  her  uncleanli- 
ness  and  civility. 

We  are  now  about  to  leave  the  land  of  that  great  and  danger- 
ous people,  the  ^ioux,  and  before  bidding  adieu  to  them  it  will  be 
advisable  to  devote  a  few  pages  to  their  ethnology. 


CHAPTER  II. 


The  Sioux  or  Dakotahs. 


The  Sioux  belong  essentially  to  the  savage,  in  opposition  to 
the  Aztecan  peoples  of  the  New  World.  In  the  days  of  Major 
Pike  (1805-1807),  they  were  the  dread  of  all  the  neighboring 
tribes,  from  the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri  to 
the  Raven  River  on  the  latter.  According  to  Lieutenant  War- 
ren, they  are  still  scattered  over  an  immense  territory  extending 
from  the  Mississippi  on  the  east  to  the  Black  Hills  on  the  west, 
and  from  the  forks  of  the  Platte  on  the  south  to  Minsi  Wakan,  or 
the  Devil's  Lake,  on  the  north.  Early  in  the  winter  of  1837  they 
ceded  to  the  United  States  all  their  lands  lying  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, which  became  the  Territory  of  Minnesota.  They  are  to  the 
North  American  tribes  what  the  great  Anizeh  race  is  among  the 
Bedouins  of  Arabia.  Their  vernacular  name,  Dakotah,  which 
aomo  pronounce  Lakotah,  and  others  Nakotah,  is  translated 
"leagued"  or  "allied,"  and  they  sometimes  speak  of  themselves 
as  Oshcti  Shakowin,  or  the  "  Seven  Council  Fires."  The  French 
call  them  "Ics  Coupes-gorges,"  from  their  sign  or  symbol,  and  the 
whites  generally  know  them  us  the  Sues  or  Sioux,  from  the  plu- 


if 


ij 


V 


jiJBBM    1311 -I 


96 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


ral  form  of  Nadonaisi,  which  in  Ojibwa  means  ai.  enemy.    The 
^T  ^^f^^^^  ^^  ^°*°  ^^^^°  principal  bands,  viz. : 

1.  Mdewakantonwan  (Minowa  Kantongs*  or  Gens  du  Lac), 
meaning  "Village  of  the  Mdewakan"-Mille  Lacs  or  Spirit  Laki! 
Ihey  formerly  extended  from  Prairie  du  Chien  to  Prairie  des 
*ran9ais,  thirty-five  miles  up  the  St.  Peter's  River.    They  have 
now  moved  fariaer  west.    This  tribe,  which  includes  seven  bands, 
w  considered  the  bravest  of  the  Sioux,  and  has  even  waged  an  in- 
ternecine war  with  the  FoUes  Avoinesf  or  Menomenes,  who  are 
reputed  the  most  gallant  of  the  Ojibwas  (Chippewas),  and  who, 
inhabiting  a  country  intersected  by  lakes,  swamps,  water-couraes 
and  impenetrable  morasses,  long  bade  defiance  to  all  their  neigh- 
bors,    rhev  have  received  annuities  since  1838,  and  their  num- 
ber enrolled  m  1850  was  2000  souls. 

2.  Wahpekute  (Washpeconte,  translated  Gens  de  FeuiUesti- 
rdes  and  VotheiB  the  ''Leaf  Shooters").  Their  habitation  lies 
westward  of  the  Des  Moines,  Cannon,  and  Blue-Earth  Rivers 
According  to  Major  Pike,  they  were  like  the  Bedouin  Ghuzw,  a 
band  of  vagabonds  formed  of  refugees,  who  for  some  bad  deed 
had  been  expelled  their  tribes.  The  meaning  of  their  name  is 
unknown ;  m  1850  they  numbered  500  or  600  souls 

3.  Sisitonwan  (Sussitongs,  or  the  Village  of  the  Alarsh).    This 

M?.LT-  5""°*  fJ^'  *^^  ^""^^  P'"^'"^^  ^y'^'S  eastward  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  up  that  stream  as  high  as  Raven  River.  They 
now  plant  their  com  about  Lake  Traverse  (Lac  Travers)  and  on 
souls  Praines,  and  numbered  in  1850  about  2500 

4.  Wahpetonwans  (Washpetongs,  Gens  des  Feuilles,  because 
they  lived  in  woods),  the  "Village  in  the  Leaves."  They  have 
moved  from  their  old  home  about  the  Little  Rapids  of  the  Minne- 
sota  River  to  Lac  qui  Parle  and  Big  Stone  Lake.     In  1850  thev 

tTd  the^  ow  f'°  T'^  ^°•^^^  ^^^^P^^"*  -™'  have  subs^J 
tuted  the  plow  for  the  hoe,  and,  according  to  the  missionaries, 

name^"  ^"' "  ""^  '°™'*'  '^^  """""^  "  ""^  "''^  ""'l  »°c°"-cct  form  of  writing  the 

t  Tho  Folios  Aroines  are  a  small  tribe  esteemed  by  the  whites  and  roor^odoA  w 

ThTvZ"„r™'  '^f  hunti„g.grounds  are  the  same  L  there  of  the  wSa/oe^^ 

thfttoftheMohawk  smknThf.^;  A  ■ ,  ^"'H""  ^*'  northeastern  language  is 
Wyandofl^  and  CheroS      ^     '  ^"'"''^  '^"""'^^'^  ^"'''="'  <=^«y"«».  T-camra, 

.aii;futbrt;2dT:a^;!i^^^^^^^^^^     ^'"-  '\  -■'J  -« (^~  '^-'-). « 

and  in  the  plasK  watL  of  th^  UnS  Mi  ?  !"''!^''y '"".^K'"''  of  "'«  northern  lakes 
much  larger  rescrabirtLw  of  l^'^'^M^i-  ''?''••  ^">'»^«»  "nd  spikes,  though 
befon,  ther;u^mra!  flS  toA^'^,u!  Tf  °^  "'«'-»""8  water-fowl  fatten  on  it 
favages  and  rZadllftldc^  T^^^^^  '";  Northern 

«  used  for  bread  by  most  of  the  tribes  to  the  „or!hwelt  '  '"^'''^  "'^^'■'""'    ^' 


Chap.  II. 


THE  SIOUX. 


97 


have  made  some  progress  in  reading  and  writing  their  own  lan- 
guage. 

The  above  four  constitute  the  Mississippi  and  Minnesota  Sioux 
and  are  called  by  those  on  the  Missouri  "  Isanti,"  from  Isanati  or 
Isanyati,  because  they  once  lived  near  Isantamde,  one  of  the  Mille 
Lacs.  They  number,  according  to  Major  Pike,  5775  souls;  ac- 
cording to  Lieutenant  Warren,  about  6200 ;  and  many  of  those 
on  the  Mississippi  have  long  since  become  semi-civilized  by  con- 
tact with  the  white  settlements,  and  have  learned  to  cultivate  the 
soil.  Others,  again,  follow  the  buffalo  in  their  primitive  wild- 
ness,  and  have  of  late  years  given  much  trouble  to  the  settlers  of 
Northern  Iowa. 

5.  Ihanktonwans  (Yanctongs,  meaning  "  Village  at  the  End") 
also  sometimes  called  Wichiyela,  or  First  Nation.  They  are 
found  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux,  between  it  and  the  Missouri 
Kiver,  as  high  up  as  Fort  Look-out,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Missouri.  In  1851  they  were  set  down  at  240  lodges=2400 
souls;  they  have  smae  increased  to  360  lodges  and  2880  souls, 
ot  whom  076  are  warriors.  Distance  from  the  buffalo  country- 
has  rendered  them  poor;  the  proximity  of  the  pale  face  has  de- 
generated them,  and  the  United  States  have  purchased  most  of 
their  lands. 

6.  Ihanktonwannas  (Yanctannas),  one  of  the  "  End  Village" 
bands.  They  range  between  the  James  and  the  Missouri  Eivers 
as  far  north  as  Devil's  Lake.  The  Dakotah  Mission  numbered 
them  at  400  lodges  =  4000  souls ;  subsequent  observers  at  800 
lodges  =  6400  souls,  and  1280  warriors;  and, being  spirited  and 
warlike,  they  give  much  trouble  to  settlers  in  the  Dakotah  Terri- 
tory. A  small  portion  live  in  dirt  lodges  during  the  summer. 
This  band  suffered  severely  from  small-pox  in  the  winter  of 
1856-7.  They  are  divided  into  the  Hunkpatidans  (of  unknown 
signification),  Pabakse  or  Cut-heads,  and  Kiyuksa,  deriders  or 
breakers  of  law.  From  their  sub-tribe  the  Wazikutc,  or  Pine 
Shooters,  sprang,  it  is  said,  the  Assiniboin  tribe  of  the  Dakotahs 
Major  Pike  divides  the  "Yanctongs"  into  two  grand  divisions, 
the  Yanctongs  of  the  North  and  the  Yanctongs  of  the  South. 

7.  Titonwan  (Teton,  "Village  of  the  Prairies''),  inhabiting  the 
trans-Missourian  prairies,  and  extending  westward  to  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Little  Missouri  and  Powder  Eiver,  and  thence 
south  on  a  line  near  the  106^  moridian.  They  constitute  more 
than  one  half  of  the  whole  Dakotah  nation.  In  1850  they  were 
numbered  at  1250  lodges^  12,500  souls,  but  that  number  was 
supposed  to  be  overestimated.  They  arc  allied  by  marriage  with 
the  Cheycnncs  and  Arickarees,  but  are  enemies  of  the  Pawnees 
and  Crows.  The  Titonwan,  according  to  Major  Pike,  are,  like 
the  Yanctongs,  the  most  erratic  and  independent  not  only  of  the 
Sioux,  but  "of  all  the  Indians  in  the  Avorld."  They  follow  the 
buffalo  as  chance  directs,  clothing  themselves  with  the  robes,  and 


98 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  II. 


making  their  lodges,  saddles,  and  bridles  of  the  same  material, 
the  flesh  of  the  animal  furnishing  their  food.  None  but  the  few 
families  connected  with  the  whites  have  planted  corn.  Possess- 
ing an  innumerable  stock  of  horses,  they  are  here  this  day  and 
five  hundreds  of  miles  off  in  a  week,  moving  with  a  rapidity 
scarcely  to  be  imagined  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  civilized  world : 
they  find  themselves  equally  at  home  in  all  places.  The  Titon- 
wan  are  divided  into  seven  principal  bands,  viz.  : 

The  Hunkpapa,  "they  who  camp  by  themselves"  (?).  They  roam 
from  the  Big  Cheyenne  up  to  the  Yellow  Stone,  and  west  to  the 
Black  Hills,  and  number  365  lodges,  2920  souls,  and  584  warriors. 
The  Sisahapa  or  Blackfeet  live  with  the  Hunkpapa,  and,  like 
them,  have  little  reverence  for  the  whites:  they  number  165 
lodges,  1321  souls,  and  264  warriors. 

The  Itazipko,  Sans  Arc,  or  "No  Bows;"  a  curious  name — ^like 
the  Sans  Arc  Pawnees,  they  are  good  archers — perhaps  given  to 
them  in  olden  times,  when,  like  certain  tribes  of  negroes,  they 
used  the  spear  to  the  exclusion  of  other  weapons :  others,  how- 
ever, translate  the  word  "Bow-pith."  They  roam  oyer  nearly 
the  same  lands  as  the  Hunkpapa,  number  about  170  lodges, 
1360  souls,  and  272  warriors. 

The  Minnikanye-wozhipu,  "those  who  plant  by  the  water," 
dwell  between  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Platte.  ^Ihcy  number 
about  200  lodges,  1000  inmates,  and  320  warriors:  they  are  fa- 
vorably disposed  toward  the  whites. 

The  Ogalala  or  Okandanda  are  generally  to  be  found  on  or 
about  the  Platte,  near  Fort  Laramie,  and  are  the  most  friendly 
of  all  the  Titonwan  toward  the  whites.  They  number  about  460 
lodges,  3680  souls,  and  736  warriors. 

The  Sichangu,  Brulds  or  Burnt-Thighs,  living  on  the  Niobrara 
and  White-Earth  Eivers,  and  ranging  from  the  Platte  to  the  Chey- 
enne, number  about  380  lodges,  containing  3680  inmates. 

The  Oohenonpa,  "Two  Boilings"  or  "Two  Kettle-band,"  are 
much  scattered  among  other  tribes,  but  are  generally  to  be  found 
in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Pierre.  They  number  about  100  lodges, 
800  inmates,  and  160  warriors. 

The  author  of  the  above  estimate,  allotting  eight  to  ten  inmates 
to  a  lodge,  of  whom  between  one  fifth  and  one  sixth  are  warriors, 
makes  an  ample  allowance.  It  is  usual  to  reckon  in  a  population 
between  one  fourth,  one  fifth,  and  one  sixth — ncc^ording  to  the 
work — as  capable  of  bearing  arms,  but  the  civilized  rule  will  not 
apply  to  the  North  American  Indian.  The  grand  total  of  the 
number  of  the  Sioux  nations,  including  the  Isanti,  would  amount 
to  30,200  souls.  Half  a  century  ago  it  was  estimated  by  Major 
Pike  at  21,075,  and  in  1850  theDakotah  Mission  set  them  down 
at  25,000.  It  is  the  opinion  of  many  that,  j  withstanding  the 
ravages  of  cholera  and  si\  al'-pox,  the  Dakotah  tion,  except  when 
mingled  with  the  fr<  jirc  settleiaents,  rather  increases  than  di- 


Chap.  II. 


THE  SIOUX.— THE  OJIBWA. 


99 


minishes.  It  lias  been  observed  by  missionaries  that  whenever 
an  account  of  births  and  deaths  baa  been  kept  in  a  villaf^c  the 
former  usually  exceed  the  latter.  The  original  numbers  of  the 
Prairie  Indians  have  been  greatly  overestimated  both  by  them- 
selves and  by  strangers ;  the  only  practicable  form  of  census  is 
the  rude  proceeding  of  counting  their  "  tipi,"  or  skin  tents.  It  is 
still  a  moot  question  how  far  the  Prairie  Indians  have  diminished 
in  numbers,  which  can  not  be  decided  for  some  years.* 

The  Dakotahs  are  mostly  a  purely  hunting  tribe  in  the  lowest 
condition  of  human  society :  they  have  yet  to  take  the  first  step, 
and  to  become  a  pastoral  people.  The  most  civilized  are  the 
Mdewakantonwan.-',  who.  even  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  buils  log  liuts  and  "stocked"  land  with  corn,  beans,  and 
pumpkins.  The  majority  of  the  bands  hunt  the  buffalo  within 
their  own  limits  luroughout  the  summer,  and  in  the  winter  pitch 
their  If >!'V'S  in  the  clumps  or  fringes  of  tree  and  underwood  along 
the  bauka  of  the  lakes  and  streams.  The  bark  of  the  cotton-wood 
furnishes  fodder  for  their  horses  during  the  snowy  season,  and  to 
obtain  it  the  creeks  and  branches  have  been  thinned  or  entirely 
denuded  of  their  beautiful  groves.  They  buy  many  animals  from 
the  Southern  Indians,  who  have  stolen  them  from  New  Mexico, 
or  trapped  them  on  the  plains  below  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Con- 
siderable numbers  are  also  bred  by  themselves.  The  Dakotah 
nation  is  one  of  the  most  warlike  and  numerous  in  the  United 
States  territory.  In  single  combat  on  horseback  they  are  de- 
scribed as  having  no  superiors ;  a  skill  acquired  bv  constant  prac- 
tice enables  them  to  spear  their  game  at  full  speedf,  and  the  rapid- 
ity with  which  they  discharge  their  arrows,  and  the  accuracy  of 
their  aim,  rival  the  shooting  which  may  be  made  with  a  revolver. 
They  are  not,  however,  formidable  warriors ;  want  of  discipline 
and  of  confidence  in  one  another  render  them  below  their  mark. 
Like  the  Moroccans  in  their  last  war  with  Spain,  they  never  at- 
tack when  they  should,  and  they  never  fail  to  attack  when  they 
should  not. 

The  Dakotahs,  when  first  visited  by  the  whites,  lived  around 
the  head-waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Red  River  of  the  north. 
They  have  gradually  migrated  toward  the  west  and  southwest, 
guarded  by  their  allies  the  Cheyennes,  who  have  given  names 
successively  to  the  Cheyenne  of  Red  River,  to  the  Big  Cheyenne 
of  tbs  jrissouri,  and  to  the  section  of  the  country  between  the 
Platte  and  the  Arkansas  which  they  now  occupy.  The  Dakotah 
first  moved  to  the  land  now  occupied  by  the  Ojibwa  (anciently 
known  as  Chippewas,  Orcchipcwa,  or  Sauteursf),  which  tribe  in- 

*  At  the  tinin  of  tho  first  sottlement  of  the  country  by  the  English  no  certain  es- 
timate was  iiuule ;  at  tho  birth  of  tlio  thirteen  original  states,  the  Indians,  accortHnR 
to  Dr.  Trunibull,  diil  not  exceed  ir4),0()().  In  1860,  the  aumber  of  Indians  within 
tho  limits  of  tho  United  States  was  estimated  by  tho  Commissioner  of  Indian  Af- 
fairs at  850,000. 

t  Tho  licv.  Peter  Joues  (Kahkewngquody),  in  his  history  of  the  Ojibwa  Indians, 


r  u:. 


100 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


}iabited  the  land  between  Sault*  St.  Marie  and  Lake  Winnipeg 
while  their  allies  the  Crees  occupied  the  country  from  Lake  W  in- 
nipeg  to  the  Kisiskadjiwan  and  Assiniboin  Elvers.     The  plains 
lying  southward  of  the  latter  river  were  the  fields  of  many  a  fierce 
and  bloody  fight  between  the  Dakotahs  and  the  other  allied  two 
tribes,  until  a  feud  caused  by  jealousy  of  the  women  arose  among 
the  former,  and  made  a  division  which  ended  in  their  becoming 
irreconcilable  enemies,  as  they  are  indeed  to  the  present  day. 
The  defeated  party  fled  to  the  craggy  precipices  of  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods,  and  received  from  the  Ojibwa  the  name  of  Assiniboin 
or  Dakotah  of  the  Eocks,  by  which  they  are  now  universally 
known  to  the  whites.    They  retain,  however,  among  themselves 
the  term  Dakotah,  although  their  kinsmen  universally,  when 
speaking  of  thpm.  called  them  "  hohe"  or  enemies,  and  they  still 
speak  the  Sioux  langaage.      After  this  feud  the  Assiniboins 
Etrengthened  themselves  by  alliance  with  the  Ojibwa  and  Cree 
tribes,  and  drove  the  Dakotah  from  all  the  country  north  of  the 
Cheyenne  Eiver,  which  is  now  regarded  as  the  boundary-line 
The  three  races  are  still  friendly,  and  so  hostile  to  the  Dakotah 
that  no  lasting  peace  can  be  made  between  them;  in  case  of  troub- 
les with  either  party,  the  government  of  the  United  States  might 
economically  and  effectually  employ  one  against  the  other.    The 
common  war-ground  is  the  region  about  Lake  Minsiwakan  where 
they  all  meet  when  hunting  buftalo.     The  Assiniboin  tribe  now 
extei-'is  from  the  Eed  Eiver  westward  along  the  Missouri  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  Milk  Eiver:  a  largo  portion  of  their  lands  like 
those  of  the  Cree,  is  British  territory.     They  puffercd  severely 
from  small-pox  in  1850-7,  losing  about  1500  of  their  tribe  and 
now  number  about  450  lodges,  or  3G00  souls.     Having  compara- 
tively few  horses,  they  rely  mainly  upon  the  dog  for  transporta- 
tion, and  they  use  its  flesh  as  food. 

The  Dakotah,  according  to  Lieutenant  Warren,  are  still  numer- 
ous, independent,  warlike,  and  powerful,  and  have  the  means  of 
prolonging  an  able  resistance  to  the  advance  of  the  Western  set- 
tlers. Under  the  present  policy  of  the  United  States  government 
-this  is  written  by  an  American— which  there  is  no  reason  to 
be  levo  likely  !<•  be  changed,  encroachments  will  continue,  and 
battle  and  muruer  will  be  the  result.  There  are  many  inevi^tablo 
causes  at  work  to  produce  war  with  the  Dakotah  before  many 
years.t     Ihc  conHict  will  end  in  the  discomfiture  of  the  natives, 

mftkM  «'rhip,K-wn"  n  romiptod  word,  MpnifyinR  il,e  "  P.ukrrpd-MocnKin  IVo! 
,^e;  the  AhlH..  Domcuc  .  (S«.v.n  V.ars'  l^.id.n.o  in  the  (ircm  lh><.n. \,l\,mh 
Araerlra  -^a  more  ron.pdnt.  ,n)  drnwH  an  inmutlu.ri/.od  distin,-ti„n  Ik-Iwitm  (^l.i|,„c- 
wn,  and  Oji!.w«H  l.u.  ,-ftr  mt  nay  what  it  in.  Ho  explain,  ()jil,wa,  t  e  fo  'of 
Ojidwm  to  mean  "  a  slnRuIarity  in  tlie  voice  or  pronuncLuion  " 

Jl  iulTlT"^  '\^''"  "'^T"■^  '"  "^'^  ^•''■'="^'''  *'"•  I'^n'morly  u.cd  in  Canada 
and  ilio  North,  and  means  rapid.-*.  v.Bumm 

t  T-ioiitcnant  Warren  considered  tlio  Rreatest  tmint  of  his  ext)loraiinn.  ♦«  l>«  <h« 
knowledge  of  iho  proper  routes  hy  which  ,o  inv'ado  iU^Sl^ZZTtoJ^'i^l 
them.     The  project  may  be  found  in  the  lk',K)rt  of  the  .Secn-tary  l(  War      I  quote 


Chap.  II. 


THE  INDIAN'S  FUTURE. 


101 


who  will  then  fast  fall  away.  Those  dispossessed  of  their  lands 
can  not,  as  many  suppose,  retire  farther  west ;  the  regions  lying 
beyond  one  tribe  are  generally  occupied  by  another,  with  whom 
deadly  animosity  exists.  Even  when  the  white  settlers  advance 
their  frontier,  the  natives  linger  about  till  their  own  poverty  and 
vie  3  consign  them  to  oblivion,  and  the  present  policy  adopted  by 
the  government  is  the  best  that  could  be  devised  for  their  exter- 
mination. It  is  needless  to  say  that  many  of  the  Sioux  look  for- 
ward to  the  destruction  of  their  race  with  all  the  feelings  of  de- 
spair with  which  the  civilized  man  would  contemplate  the  extinc- 
tion of  his  nationality.  How  indeed,  poor  devils,  are  they  to  live 
when  the  pale  face  comes  with  his  pestilent  fire-water  and  small- 
pox, followed  up  with  paper  and  pen  work,  to  be  interpreted  un- 
der the  gentle  auspices  of  fire  and  steel  ? 

The  advance  of  the  settlements  is  universally  acknowledged 
by  the  people  of  the  United  States  to  be  a  political  necessity  in 
the  national  development,  and  on  that  ground  only  is  the  dis- 
placement of  the  rightful  owners  of  the  soil  justifiable.  But  the 
government,  instead  of  preparing  the  way  for  settlements  by  wise 
and  just  purchases  from  those  in  possession,  and  proper  support 
and  protection  for  the  indigent  and  improvident  race  thus  dispos- 
sessed, is  sometimes  behind  its  obligations.  There  are  instances 
of  Congress  refusing  or  delaying  to  ratify  the  treaties  made  by  its 
duly  authorized  agents.  The  settler  and  pioneer  are  thus  precip- 
itated into  the  Indian  country,  without  the  savage  having  received 
the  promised  consideration,  and  he  often,  in  a  manner  that  enlists 
tlie  sympathies  of  mankind,  takes  up  the  tomahawk  and  perishes 
in  the  attempt.  It  frccjuently  happens  that  the  Western  settlers 
are  charged  with  bringing  about  these  wars ;  they  arc  now,  how- 
ever, fighting  the  battles  of  civilization  exactly  as  they  were 
fought  three  centuries  ago  upon  the  Atlantic  shore,  under  circum- 
stances that  command  equal  admiration  and  approval.  While, 
therefore,  we  sympathize  witli  the  savage,  we  can  not  but  feel  for 
the  unhapi)y  scpiatter,  whose  life  is  sacrilieed  to  the  Indian's  venge- 
ance by  the  errors  or  dilatorincss  of  those  whoso  duty  it  is  to  pro- 
tect him.  ^ 

The  people  of  the  United  States,  of  course,  know  themselves 
to  be  invincible  by  tlio  hands  of  tlieso  half-naked  savages.  But 
the  Indians,  who  on  their  own  ground  still  outnumber  the  whites, 
are  by  no  means  ho  convinced  of  the  fact.  Until  the  army  of 
L  Lah  moved  westward,  many  of  them  had  never  seen  a  sol'dier 
U  a  grand  council  of  the  Dakotah,  in  the  summer  of  1857,  on 
the  North  bork  of  the  Platte  lliver,  they  solemnly  pledged  them- 
selves to  resist  the  encroachments  of  tho  whites,  and,  if  necessary, 
to  "whip  them  out  of  the  country.  Tho  appearance  of  tho 
troops  has  undoubtedly  produced  a  highly  beneficial  effect;  still, 


10 


>fr.  Wnm-irs  opinion 
ilic  DakutiUi  MiwiuQ. 


i(m(vniin«  ilu<  futnrc  of  tlin  Dnkotnlts  hk  a.  rnntrnat to  that  of 
M}f  own  view  will  londiiJo  tho  ciwo  in  ji.  102. 


mn 


102 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


■ 


I  f  s 

111 


something  more  is  wanted.  Similarly  in  Hindostan,  though  the 
natives  knew  that  the  British  army  numbered  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands, every  petty  independent  prince  thought  himself  fit  to  take 
the  field  agamst  the  intruder,  till  the  failure  of  the  attempt  sug- 
gested to  him  som.e  respect  for  les  gros  hataillons. 

The  Sioux  differ  greatly  in  their  habits  from  the  Atlantic  tribes 
of  times  gone  by.     The  latter  lived  in  wigwams  or  villages  of 
more  stable  construction  than  the  lodge ;  they  cultivated  the  soil, 
never  wandered  far  from  home,  made  their  expeditions  on  foot, 
having  no  horses,  and  rarely  came  into  action  unless  they  could 
"  tree'  themselves.     They  inflicted  horrid  tortures  on  their  prison- 
ers, as  every  English  child  has  read ;  b;  t,  Arab-like,  they  respect- 
ed the  honor  of  their  female  captives.    The  Prairie  tribes  are  un- 
tamed and  untamable  savages,  superior  only  to  the  "Arab"  hordes 
of  great  cities,  who  appear  destined  to  play  in  the  history  of  future 
ages  the  part  of  Gotli  and  Vandal,  Scythian,  Bedouin,  and  Turk. 
Hitherto  the  role  which  these  hunters  have  sustained  n\  the  econ- 
omv  of  nature  has  been  to  prepare,  by  thinning  oft'  iis  wild  ani- 
mals, a  noble  portion  of  the  world  for  the  higher  race  about  to 
succeed  them.     Captain  Mayne  Reid  somewhere  derides  the  idea 
of  tlio  Indian's  progress  toward  extinction.     A  cloud  of  authori- 
ties bear  witness  against  him.    East  of  the  Mississippi  the  savago 
Las  virtually  died  out,  and  few  men  allow  him  two  prospective 
centuries  of  existence  in  the  West,  unless  ho  bo  Icflt,  which  ne  will 
not  be,  to  himself. 

"Wolves  of  women  born,"  the  Prairie  Indians  despise  agri- 
culture as  the  Bedouin  docs.  Merciless  freebooters,  they  delight 
in  roaming;  like  all  equestrian  and  uncivilized  people,  they  arc 
perfect  horsemen,  but  poor  fighters  when  dismounted,  and  they 
arc  nothing  without  their  weapons.  As  a  rule  they  rarely  torture 
thci"  prisoners,  except  when  an  old  man  or  woman  is  lian'dod  over 
to  the  sq^uaws  and  pappooses  "pour  les  amuscr,"  as  a  Canadian  ex- 

gresscd  it.  Near  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  liowcver,  the 
hoshonccs  and  the  Yutas  (Utahs)  are  as  cruel  as  their  limited 
intellects  allow  them  to  be.  Moreover,  all  the  Prairie  tribes  never 
fail  to  subject  women  to  an  ordoal  worse  than  death.  The  best 
character  given  of  lato  years  to  tiic  Sioux  was  by  a  traveller  in 
1845,  who  writes  that  "  their  freedom  and  power  have  imparted 
to  their  warriors  some  gentlemanly  qualities;  they  are  cleanly, 
dignified  and  graceful  in  maimers,  brave,  proud,  and  independent 
ill  b(\aring  and  deed." 

The  qualities  of  the  Sioux,  and  of  the  Prairie  tribes  generally, 
arc  little  prized  by  those  wlio  have  socn  much  of  them.  They 
ignore  the  very  rxistonco  of  gratitude;  the  benefits  of  years  can 
not  win  their  affections.  AftxT  boarding  and  lod^'ing  with  a 
white  for  any  length  of  time,  they  will  steal  his  clothes;  and,  aft- 
er receiving  any  number  of  gifts,  they  will  haggle  for  the  value 
of  the  merest  tViilo.    Tliey  arc  invctbroto  thieves  and  beggars ; 


Chap.  II. 


THE  SIOUX  CHARACTER. 


103 


the  Western  settlers  often  pretend  not  to  understand  their  tongue 
for  fear  of  exposing  themselves  to  perpetual  pilfering  and  perse- 
cution ;  and  even  the  sqaaws,  who  live  with  the  pale  faces,  annoy 
their  husbands  by  daily  applications  for  beads  and  other  coveted 
objects ;  they  are  cruel  to  one  another  as  children.  The  obsti- 
nate revengefulness  of  their  vendetta  is  proverbial ;  they  hate 
with  the  "  hate  of  Hell ;"  and,  like  the  Highlanders  of  old,  if  the 
author  of  an  injury  escape  them,  they  vent  their  rage  upon  the 
innocent,  because  he  is  of  the  same  clan  or  color.  If  struck  by  a 
white  man,  they  must  either  kill  him  or  receive  damages  in  the 
shape  of  a  horse;  and  after  the  most  trivial  injury  they  can  nev- 
er be  trusted.  Their  punishments  are  Draconic ;  for  all  things 
death,  either  by  shooting  or  burning.  Their  religion  is  a  low 
form  of  fetichism.  They  place  their  women  in  the  most  de- 
graded position.  The  squaw  is  a  mere  slave,  living  a  life  of  utter 
dj-udgery ;  and  when  the  poor  creature  wishes,  according  to  the 
fashion  of  her  sex,  to  relieve  her  feelings  by  a  domestic  "scene," 
followed  by  a  "  good  cry,"  or  to  use  her  knife  upon  a  sister  squaw, 
as  the  Trasteverina  mother  uses  her  bodkin,  the  husband,  after 
squatting  muffled  up,  in  hope  that  the  breeze  will  blow  over,  en- 
forces silence  with  a  cudgel.  The  warrior,  considering  the  chase 
an  amt)le  share  of  the  labor-curse,  is  so  lazy  that  he  will  not  rise 
to  saddle  or  unsaddle  his  pony ;  he  will  sit  down  and  ask  a  white 
man  to  fetch  him  water,  and  only  laugh  if  reproved.  Like  a  wild 
beast,  he  can  not  be  broken  to  work ;  he  would  rather  die  than 
employ  himself  in  honest  industry — a  mighty  contrast  to  the  ne- 
gro, whose  only  happiness  is  in  serving.  He  invariably  attributes 
an  act  of  kindness,  charity,  or  forbearance  to  fear.  Ungenerous, 
ho  extols,  like  the  Bedouin,  generosity  to  the  skies.  He  never 
makes  a  present  except  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  more  than  its 
equivalent ;  and  an  "  Indian  gift"  has  come  to  be  a  proverb,  mean- 
ing any  thing  reclaimed  after  being  given  away.  Impulsive  as 
the  African,  his  mind  is  blown  about  by  storms  of  unaccountable 
contradictions.  Many  a  white  has  suddenly  seen  the  scalping- 
knife  restored  to  its  sheath  instead  of  being  buried  in  his  ilesh, 
while  others  have  been  as  unexpectedly  assaulted  and  slain  by 
those  from  whom  thov  expectrd  Kindross  and  liospitality.  Tlic 
women  are  mostlv  cold  and  chaste.  The  men  have  vices  which 
can  not  be  named:  their  redeeming  points  are  fortitude  and  en- 
durance <;f  hardship;  mon^ovor,  though  they  care  little  for  their 
wives,  tlioy  are  inordinately  fond  of  their  children.  Of  their 
bravery  Indian  figlitt>rs  do  not  sjieak  highly :  they  arc  notorious- 
ly delicient  in  llie  civilized  quality  called  moral  couriige,  and, 
tliough  a  brave  will  light  single-handed  stoutly  enough,  they  rare- 
ly stand  up  long  in  action.  They  are  great  at  surprises,  ambus- 
eadcH,  and  night  attacks :  as  with  the  Arabs  and  Africans,  their 
favorite  hour  for  onslaught  is  that  before  dawn,  when  the  enemy 
is  most  easily  terrified  —  they  know  that  there  is  nothing  which 


104 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  H. 


tries  man's  nerve  so  much  as  an  unexpected  night  attack  — and 
when  the  cattle  can  be  driven  off  to  advantage.  In  some  points 
their  characters  have  been,  it  is  now  granted,  greatly  misunder- 
stood. Their  forced  gravity  and  calmness  —  purely  "company 
manners" — were  not  suspected  to  cloak  merriment,  sociability, 
and  a  general  fondness  of  feasts  and  fun.  Their  apathy  and 
sternness,  which  were  meant  for  reserve  and  dfgnity  among  stran- 
gers, gave  them  an  air  of  ungeniality  which  does  not  belong  to 
their  mental  constitutions.  Their  fortitude  and  endurance  of 
pain  is  the  result,  as  in  the  prize-fighter,  of  undeveloped  brain. 

The  Sioux  are  tall  men,  straight,  and  well  made :  they  are  nev- 
er deformed,  and  are  rarely  crippled,  simply  because  none  but 
the  able-bodied  can  live.     The  shoulders  are  high  and  somewhat 
straight ;  the  figure  is  the  reverse  of  the  sailor's,  that  is  to  say, 
while  the  arms  arc  smooth,  feeble,  and  etiolated,  the  legs  are  tol- 
erably muscular ;  the  bones  are  often  crooked  or  bowed  in  the 
equestrian  tribes;  they  walk  as  if  they  wanted  the  ligamentum 
teres ;  there  is  a  general  looseness  of  limb,  which  promises,  how- 
ever,^lightncs3,  endurance,  and  agility,  and  which,  contrasted  with 
the  Caucasian  race,  suggests  the  gait  of  a  wild  compared  with  that 
of  a  tame  animal.     Like  all  savages,  they  are  deficient  in  corpo- 
real strength:  a  civilized  man  finds  no  difficulty  in  handling 
them :  on  this  road  there  is  only  one  Indian  (a  Shoshonce)  who 
can  whin  a  white  in  a  "  rough  and  tumble."    The  temperament 
13  usually  bilious-nervous ;   the  sanguine  is  rare,  the  lymphatic 
rarer,  and  I  never  knew  or  heard  of  an  albino.    The  hands,  es- 
pecially in  the  higher  tribes,  are  decidedly  delicate,  but  this  is 
more  observable  in  the  male  than  in  the  female ;  the  type  is  rather 
that  of  the  Hindoo  than  of  the  African  or  the  European.    The  feet, 
being  more  used  than  the  other  extremities,  and  unconfined  by 
boot  or  shoe,  are  somewhat  splay,  spreading  out  immediately  bo- 
hind  the  toes,  wliilo  the  heel  is  remarkabfy  narrow.     In  conse- 
quence of  being  carried  straight  to  the  fore— the  only  easy  posi- 
tion for  walking  tlirough  gniss— they  tread,  like  the  ant-cater 
more  heavily  on  the  outer  than  on  the  inner  edge.     The  sign  of 
the  Indian  is  readily  recopiized  by  the  least  experienced  tiaeker. 
It  is  erroneously  said  that  ho  w'lio  has  seen  a  single  Indian  ha^ 
seen  them  all.     Of  course  tiicre  is  a  groat  similarity  among  sav- 
ages and  barbarians  of  the  same  race  and  climate.    The  same  ])ur- 
suits,  habits,  and  customs  naturally  produce  an  identity  of  expres- 
sion which,  as  in  tho  case  of  husband  and  wife,  parent  and  child 
moulds  the  features  into  more  or  less  of  likiMioss.     On  the  oilier 
hand,  a  practiced  eye  will  distinguish  the  Indian  individually  or 
by  bands  as  easily  as  the  shephenl,  by  marks  invisible  to  othei-s 
can  swear  to  his  sheen.     I  have  little  doubt  that  to  the  savages 
all  white  men  look  aliko. 

The  Prairie  Indian's  hair  and  complexion  have  already  been 
described.     According  to  some  savages  the  build  of  the  former 


Chap.  II. 


THE  INDIAN  CONSTITUTION. 


105 


differs  materially  from  that  of  the  European  and  the  Asiatic,  The 
animal  development  varies  in  the  several  races :  the  Pawnee's  and 
Yuta's  scalp-lock  rarely  exceeds  eighteen  inches  in  length,  while 
that  of  the  Crow,  like  tne  East  Indian  Jatawala's,  often  sweeps  the 
ground.  There  are  salient  characteristics  in  the  cranium  which 
bear  testimony  to  many  phrenological  theories.  The  transverse 
diameter  of  the  rounded  skull  between  the  parietal  bones,  where 
destructiveness  and  sccretiveness  are  placed,  is  enormous,  some- 
times exceeding  the  longitudinal  lino  from  sinciput  to  occiput,  the 
direct  opposite  of  the  African  negro's  organization.  The  region 
of  the  cerebellum  is  deficient  and  shrunken,  as  with  the  Eut-opean 
in  his  second  childhood :  it  sensibly  denotes  that  the  subject  wants 
"  vim."  The  coronal  region,  where  the  sentiments  are  supposed 
to  lie,  is  rather  flat  than  arched ;  in  extreme  cases  the  face  seems 
to  occupy  two  thirds  instead  of  half  the  space  between  poll  and 
chin.  The  low  conical  forehead  recedes,  as  in  Robespierre's  head, 
from  the  region  of  benevolence,  and  rise^high  at  the  apex,  where 
firmness  and  self-esteem  reside :  a  common  formation  among  wild 
tribes,  as  every  traveler  in  Asia  and  Africa  has  remarked.  The 
facial  angle  of  Camper  varies,  according  to  phrenologists,  between 
70°  and  80°.  _  The  projecting  lower  brow  is  strong,  broad,  and 
massive,  showing  tliat  development  of  the  perceptions  which  is 
produced  by  the  constant  and  minute  observation  of  a  limited 
number  of  objects.  The  well-known  Indian  art  of  following  the 
trail  is  one  result  of  this  property.  The  nose  is  at  once  salient 
and  dilated — in  fact,  partaking  of  the  Caucasian  and  African  types. 
The  nostrils  arc  broad  and  deeply  whorlcd ;  the  nasal  orifice  is 
wide,  and,  according  to  osteologists,  the  bones  that  protect  it  are 
arched  and  cxj^andcd ;  the  eyebrows  are  removed,  like  the  beard 
and  mustache,  by  vellication,  giving  a  dull  and  bald  look  to  the 
flice ;  the  lashes,  however,  grow  so  thickly  that  they  often  show  a 
sooty  black  line,  suggesting  the  presence  of  the  Oriental  kohl  or 
surma.  The  orbits  are  large  and  square :  largeness  and  square- 
ness are,  in  foct,the  general  cl:aractcr  of  the  features:  it  doubtless 
produces  that  peculiar  besotted  look  which  belongs  to  the  Indian 
as  to  tlie  Mongolian  family.  The  conjunctival  membrane  has  the 
whiteness  and  clearness  of  the  European  and  the  Asiatic ;  it  is 
not,  as  in  the  African,  brown,  yellow,  or  red.  The  pupil,  like  the 
hair,  is  of  diiffrent  .sliades  between  black  and  brown :  wlien  the 
organ  is  blue— an  accident  which  leads  to  a  suspicion  of  mixed 
blood— the  owner  generally  receives  a  name  from  the  peculiarity. 
Travelers,  for  the  most  part,  describe  the  organ  as  "  black  and 
piercing,  snaky  and  venomous ;"  others  as  "  dull  and  sleepy ;" 
while  some  detect  in  its  color  a  mingling  of  black  and  gray.  Tho 
only  peculiarity  which  T  observed  in  the  jnipil  was  its  similarity 
to  that  of  the  gipsy.  The  Indian  first  iixes  upon  you  a  piercing 
glance,  which  seems  to  look  below  tho  surface.  After  a  few  sec- 
onds, however,  tho  oyo  glazes  as  though  a  film  passed  over  it,  and 


T 


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f-M 


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if 


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r  - 


^^ 

1  ■ 

1 

i  ■ 

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i  ' 

ll  1 

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ii-  ^ 

-ua 


106 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  U. 


gazes,  as  it  were,  on  vacancy.    The  look  would  at  once  convict 
him  of  Jattatura  and  Molocchio  in  Italy,  and  of  El  Ayn,  or  the 
EvU  Eye,  in  the  East.     The  mouth  is  at  once  full  and  compress- 
ed; it  opens  widely;  the  lips  are  generally  bo7-des  or  everted — 
decidedly  the  most  unpleasant  fault  which  that  feature  can  have 
— the  corners  are  drawn  down  as  if  by  ill  temper,  and  the  two 
seams  which  spring  from  the  tdse  of  the  nostrils  are  deeply  traced. 
This  formation  of  the  oral,  combined  wi*;h  the  fullness  of  the  cir- 
cumoral  regions,  and  the  length  and  fleshiness  of  the  naked  upper 
lip,  communicates  a  peculiar  animality  to  the  countenance.    Tlie 
cheek-bones  are  high  and  bonv ;  they  are  not,  however,  expanded 
or  spread  backward,  nor  do  they,  as  in  the  Chinese,  alter  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  eyes  hy  making  them  oblique.     The  cheeks  are 
rather  lank  and  falling  in  than  full  or  oval.    The  whole  maxilla- 
ry organ  is  projecting  and  ponderous.    The  wide  condyles  of  the 
lower  jaw  give  a  remarkable  massiveness  to  the  jowl,  while  the 
chin — perhajos  the  most  characteristic  feature — is  long,  bony,  large, 
and  often  parted  in  the  centre.     The  teeth  are  faultless,  full-sized 
and  white,  even  and  regular,  strong  and  lasting;  and  they  are 
vertical,  not  sloping  forward  like  the  African's.     To  sum  up,  the 
evanishing  of  the  forehead,  the  compression  of  the  lips,  the  breadth 
and  squareness  of  the  jaw,  and  the  massiveness  of  the  chin,  com- 
bine to  produce  a  normal  expression  of  harshness  and  cruelty, 
which,  heightened  by  red  and  black  war-paint,  locks  like  horse- 
hair, plumes,  and  other  savage  decorations, form  a  "rouge  dragon" 
whose  (out  ensemble  is  truly  revolting. 

The  women  when  in  their  teens  have  often  that  hemde  du  dia- 
hie,  which  may  be  found  even  among  the  African  ncgrcsscs ;  noth- 
ing, however,  can  be  more  evanescent.  When  full  grown  the  fig- 
ure becomes  dumpy  and  imjm ;  and  the  face,  tliough  sometimes 
not  witliout  a  certam  comeliness,  has  a  Turanian  breadth  and  flat- 
ness. The  best  portrait  of  a  sightly  Indian  woman  is  that  of 
Pocahontas,  the  I'rincess,  published  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft.  Tho 
drudgery  of  the  tent  and  field  renders  the  squaw  cold  and  unim- 
passioned ;  and,  like  the  coarsest-minded  women  in  civilized  races, 
ncr  eye  and  her  heart  mean  one  and  the  same  thing.  She  will 
administer  "  squaw  medicine."  a  love  philter,  to  her  husband,  but 
rather  for  the  purpose  of  re{aining  his  protection  than  his  love. 
She  has  all  the  modesty  of  a  savage,  and  is  not  deficient  in  senso 
of  honor.  She  has  no  objection  to  a  white  man,  but,  Aflglian-likc, 
she  usually  changes  her  name  to  "  John"  or  some  other  alias.  Her 
demerits  are  a  habit  of  dunning  for  presents,  and  a  dislike  to  the 
virtue  that  ranks  next  to  godliness,  which  nothing  but  tho  fear  of 
the  rod  will  subdue.  She  has  literally  no  belief,  not  even  in  the 
rude  fctichism  of  her  husband,  and  consequently  she  has  no  re- 
ligious exercises.  As  slie  advances  in  yeara  she  rajjidly  descends 
in  pht/si(/w  and  morale:  there  is  nothing  on  earth  more  fiendlikc 
than  the  vengeance  of  a  cretin-like  old  squaw. 


Chap.  II. 


THE  INDIAN'S  RELIGION. 


107 


The  ancient  Persians  taught  their  progeny  archery,  riding,  and 
truth-telling ;  the  Prairie  Indian's  curriculum  is  much  the  same, 
only  the  last  of  the  trio  is  carefully  omitted.  The  Indian,  like 
other  savages,  never  tells  the  truth ;  verity  is  indeed  rather  an 
intellectual  than  an  instinctive  virtue,  which,  as  children  prove, 
must  be  taught  and  made  intelligible;  except  when  "counting 
his  coups,"  in  other  words,  recounting  his  triumphs,  his  life  is 
therefore  one  system  of  deceit,  the  strength  of  the  weak.  An- 
other essential  part  of  education  is  to  close  the  mouth  during 
sleep :  the  Indian  has  a  superstition  that  all  disease  is  produced 
by  inh  ilation.  The  children,  "  bom  like  the  wild  ass's  colts,"  are 
systematically  spoiled  with  the  view  of  fostering  their  audacity ; 
the  celebrated  apophthegm  of  the  Wise  King— to  judge  from  his 
notable  failure  at  home,  he  probably  did  not  practice  what  he 
preached — which  has  caused  such  an  expenditure  of  birch  and 
cane  in  higher  races,  would  be  treated  with  contempt  by  the  In- 
dians. The  fond  mother,  when  chastening  her  child,  never  goes 
beyond  dashing  a  little  cold  water  in  its  face — for  which  reason 
to  besprinkle  a  man  is  a  mortal  insult — a  system  which,  perhaps, 
might  be  naturalized  with  advantage  in  some  parts  of  Europe. 
The  son  is  taught  to  make  his  mother  toil  for  him,  and  openly  to 
disobey  his  sire ;  at  seven  years  of  age  he  has  thrown  on  all  pa- 
rental restraint ;  nothing  keeps  him  in  order  but  the  fear  of  the 
young  warriors.  At  ten  or  twelve  he  openly  rebels  against  all 
domestic  rule,  and  does  not  hesitate  to  strike  his  father ;  the  pa- 
rent then  goes  off  rubbing  his  hurt,  and  boasting  to  his  neighbors 
of  the  brave  boy  whom  he  has  begotten. 

The  religion  of  the  North  American  Indians  has  long  been  a 
subject  of  debate.  Some  see  in  it  traces  of  Judaism,  others  of 
Sabaianism ;  Mr.  Schoolcraft  detects  a  degradation  of  Guebrism. 
His  faith  has,  it  is  true,  a  suspicion  of  duality ;  Hormuzd  and 
Ahriman  are  recognizable  in  Gitche  Manitou  and  Mujhe  Mani- 
tou,  and  the  latter,  the  Bad  god,  is  naturally  more  worshiped,  be- 
cause more  feared,  than  the  Good  god.  Moreover,  some  tribes 
show  respect  for  and  swear  by  the  sun,  and  others  for  fire :  there 
is  a  north  god  and  a  south  god,  a  wood  god,  a  prairie  god,  an  air 
god,  and  a  water  god ;  but — they  have  not  risen  to  monotheism 
—  there  is  not  one  God.  None,  however,  appear  to  have  that 
reverence  for  the  elements  wliich  is  the  first  article  of  the  Zoroas- 
trian  creed ;  the  points  of  difference  are  many,  while  those  of  re- 
semblance arc  few  and  feeble,  and  it  is  hard  to  doubt  that  the  in- 
stincts of  mankind  have  been  pressed  by  controversialists  into 
the  service  of  argument  as  traditional  tenets. 

To  judge  from  books  and  the  conversation  of  those  who  best 
know  the  Indians,  he  is  distinctly  a  Fctichist  like  the  African  ne- 
gro, and,  indeed,  like  all  the  child-like  races  of  mankind.*    The 

*  Tho  roftdor  who  cares  to  consult  my  stmlics  upon  tho  subject  of  Fctichium  in 
Africa,  where  it  U  and  over  has  been  the  national  creed,  is  referred  to  "Tho  Lake 


J 


t  h;1 


!.l. 


■  iFif" 


108 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


medicme-man  is  bis  mganga,  angekok,  sorcerer,  prophet,  physi. 
cian  exorciser,  priest,  and  rain-doctor;  only,  as  he  is  rarely  a  cul- 
tivator  ot  the  soil,  instead  of  heavy  showers  and  copious  crops,  he 
IS  promised  scalps,  salmon  trout,  and  buffalo  beef  in  plenty.     He 
has  the  true  Fetichist's  belief  —  invariably  found  in  tribes  who 
live  dependent  upon  the  powers  of  Nature— in  the  younger  broth- 
ers ot  the  human  family,  the  bestial  creation :  he  holds  to  a  met- 
amorphosis like  that  of  Abyssinia,  and  to  speaking  animals 
-livery  warrior  chooses  a  totem,  some  quadruped,  bird,  or  fish  to 
which  he  prays,  and  which  he  will  on  no  account  kill  or  eat     Dr 
Livingstone  shows  (chap,  i.)  that  the  same  custom  prevails  in  its 
entirety  among  the  Kaffir  Bakwaina,  and  opines  that  it  shows 
traces  of  addiction  to  animal  worship,  like  the  ancient  E<Tyntians  • 
in  the  prophecies  of  Israel  the  tribes  are  compared  with°animal3' 
a  true  totemic  practice.     The  word  totem  also  signifies  a  sub-clan 
or  sub-tribe;  and  some  nations,  like  the  African  Somal,  will  not 
allow  marriage  in  the  same  totem.    The  medicine-men  give  away 
young  children  as  an  atonement  when  calamities  impend  •  thev 
go  clothed,  not  in  sackcloth  and  ashes,  but  in  coats  of  mire  and 
tlieir  macerations  and  self-inflicted  tortures  rival  those  of  the  Hin- 
doos: a  lanatic  has  been  known  to  drag  about  a  buffalo  skull 
with  a  string  cut  from  his  own  skin  till  it  is  turn  away      In 
spring-time  the  braves,  and  even  the  boys,  repairing  to  lonely 
places  and  hi  1  -tops,  their  flxces  and  bodies  being  masked,  as  if  iii 
mourning,  with  mud,  fast  and  pray,  and  sing  rude  chants  to  pro- 
pitiate the  ghosts  for  days  consecutively.     The  Fetichist  is  ever 
grossly  superstitious ;  and  the  Indians,  as  might  be  expected 
abound  in  local  rites.    Some  tribes,  as  the  Cheyennes,  will  not  go 
to  war  without  a  medicine-man,  others  without  sacred  war-'^ourds* 
containing  the  tooth  of  the  drum-head  fish.     Children  bora  with 
teeth  are  looked  upon  as  portents,  and  when  gray  at  birth  the 
phenomenon  is  attributed  to  evil  ghosts. 

I  can  not  but  think  that  the  two  main  articles  of  belief  which 
have  been  set  down  to  the  credit  of  the  Indian,  namely,  the  Great 
bpirit  or  Creator,  and  the  Happy  Hunting-grounds  in  a  future 
world,  arc  the  results  of  missionary  teaching,  the  work  of  Fathers 
Hennepin,  Marquette,  and  their  noble  army  of  martyred  Jesuit 
followers.  In  later  days  they  served  chiefly  to  inspire  the  An- 
glo-American muse,  e.  <jr.  "  i 

"By  miilniKlit  moons  o'er  moistening  dews, 
In  vestments  for  the  cliase  arrayed, 
The  hunter  still  the  deer  pursues— 
The  hunter  nnd  the  doer,  a  shade  ! 


I^Kions  of  Central  Africa  "  chap.  xix.  The  mmlos  of  belief,  and  the  manners  and 
r-iiBtoms  of  savage  and  harbarous  races  are  so  similar,  that  a  knowlcdKo  of  tho  Afri- 
can IS  an  excellent  introduction  to  that  of  the  Americnn 

•  This  K"urd  or  calabash  is  the  produce  of  tho  CwuMta  laqmaria,  or  calabash 
vine  In  Simnish,  Central,  and  S..uthern  America,  Cuba  and  tl'io  West  Indies,  they 
use  tho  largo  round  fruit  of  the  Cnsccntia  aijete.  '     ^ 


cross. 


109 


Chap,  II.  THE  INDIAN'S  RELIGION. 

And  long  shall  timorous  fancy  see 

The  painted  chief  and  pointed  spear, 
And  Reason's  self  shall  bow  the  knee 

To  shadows  and  delusions  here." 

My  conviction  is,  that  the  English  and  American's  popular  ideas 
upon  the  subject  are  unreUable,  and  that  their  embodiment,  beau- 
tiful poetry,  "Lo  the  poor  Indian,"  down  to  "his  faithful  dog 
shall  bear  him  company,"  are  but  a  splendid  myth.  The  North 
American  aborigine  believed,  it  is  true,  in  an  unseen  power,  the 
Manitou,  or,  as  we  are  obliged  to  translate  it,  "  Spirit,"  residing 
in  every  heavenly  body,  animal,  plant,  or  other  natural  object. 
This  is  the  very  essence  of  that  form  of  Fetichism  which  leads  to 
Pantheism  and  Polytheism.  There  was  a  Manitou,  as  he  con- 
ceived, which  gave  the  spark  from  the  flint,  lived  in  every  blade 
of  grass,  flowed  in  the  streams,  shone  in  the  stars,  aud  thundered 
m  the  waterfall ;  but  in  each  example— a  notable  instance  of  the 
want  of  abstractive  and  generalizing  power— the  idea  of  the  Deity 
was  particular  and  concrete.  When  the  Jesuit  fathers  suggested 
the  unity  of  the  Great  Spirit  pervading  all  beings,  it  was  very 
readily  recognized ;  but  the  generalization  was  not  worked  out 
by  the  Indian  mind.  lie  was,  therefore,  like  all  savages,  atheistic 
in  the  literal  sense  of  the  word.  He  had  not  arrived  at  the  first 
step,  Pantheism,  which  is  so  far  an  improvement  that  it  opens  out 
a  grand  idea,  the  omnipresence,  and  consequently  the  omnipo- 
tence, of  the  Deity.  In  most  North  American  languages  the 
Theos  is  known,  not  as  the  "  Great  Spirit,"  but  as  the  "  Great 
Father,"  a  title  also  applied  to  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
who  is,  I  believe,  though  sometimes  a  step-father,  rather  the  more 
reverenced  of  the  twain.  With  respect  to  the  happy  hunting- 
grounds,  it  is  a  mere  corollary  of  the  monotheistic  theorem  above 
proved.  It  is  doubtful  whether  these  savages  ever  grasped  the 
idea  of  a  human  soul.  The  Chicury  of  New  England,  indeed, 
and  other  native  words  so  anglicized,  appear  distinctly  to  mean 
the  African  Pepo — ghost  or  larva. 

Certain  missionaries  have  left  us  grotesque  accounts  of  the  sim- 
ple good  sense  with  which  the  Indians  of  old  received  the  Glad 
ridings.  The  strangers  were  courteously  received,  the  calumet 
was  passed  round,  and  they  were  invited  to  make  known  their 
wants  in  a  "  big  talk."  Tl^ey  did  so  by  producing  a  synopsis  of 
their  fuith,  beginning  at  Adam's  apple  and  ending  at  the  Savior's 
cross.  The  patience  of  the  Indian  in  enduring  long  speeches, 
sermons,  and  harangues  has  ever  been  exemplary  and  peculiar,  as 
his  fortitude  in  suflering  lingering  physical  tortures.  The  audi- 
ence listened  with  a  solemn  demeanor,  not  once  interrupting  what 
must  have  appeared  to  them  a  very  wild  and  curious  story. 
Called  upon  to  make  some  remark,  these  autipomologists  simply 
ejaculated, 

"Apples  are  not  wholesome,  and  those  who  crucified  Christ 
were  bad  men !" 


no 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


In  their  turn,  some  display  of  oratory  was  required.  They 
avoided  the  tedious,  long-drawn  style  of  argument,  and  spoke,  as 
was  their  wont,  briefly  to  the  point.  "  It  is  good  of  you,"  said 
they,  "to  cross  the  big  water,  and  to  follow  the  Indian's  trail, 
that  ye  may  relate  to  us  what  ye  have  related.  Now  listen  to 
what  our  mothers  told  us.  Our  first  father,  after  killing  a  beast, 
was  roasting  a  rib  before  the  fire,  when  a  spirit,  descending  from 
the  skies,  sat  upon  a  neighboring  blufl:  She  was  asked  to  eat. 
She  ate  fat  meat.  Then  she  arose  and  silently  went  her  way. 
From  the  place  where  she  rested  her  two  hands  grew  corn  and 
pumpkin ;  and  from  the  place  where  she  sat  sprang  tobacco !" 

The  missionaries  listened  to  the  savage  tradition  with  an  ex- 
cusable disrespect,  and,  not  unnaturally,  often  interrupted  it.  This 
want  of  patience  and  dignity,  however,  drew  upon  them  severe 
remarks.  "Pooh!"  observed  the  Indians.  "When  you  told  us 
what  your  mothers  told  you,  we  gave  ear  in  silence  like  men. 
When  we  tell  you  what  our  mothers  told  us,  ye  give  tongue  like 
squaws.     Go  to !     Ye  are  no  medicine-men,  but  silly  fellows  I" 

Besides  their  superstitious  belief  in  ghosts,  spirits,  or  familiars, 
and  the  practice  of  spells  and  charms,  love-philters,  dreams  and 
visions,  war-medicine,  hunting-medicine,  self-torture,  and  incanta- 
tions, the  Indians  had,  it  appears  to  me,  but  three  religious  ob- 
servances, viz.,  dancing,  smoking,  and  scalping. 

The  war-dances,  the  corn-dances,  the  bufialo-dances,  the  scalp- 
dances,  and  the  other  multiform  and  solemn  saltations  of  these 
savages,  have  been  minutely  depicted  and  described  by  many 
competent  observers.  The  theme  also  is  beyond  the  limits  of  au 
essay  like  this. 

Smoking  is  a  boon  which  the  Old  owes  to  the  New  World.  It 
is  a  heavy  call  upon  our  gratitude,  for  which  wo  have  naturally 
been  very  ungrateful. 

"  Non  epulis  tantum,  non  Bacclii  pascimur  iisii, 
Piiscimur  ct  fiunis,  ingcniosa  gula  est." 

We  began  by  calling  our  new  gift  the  "  holy  herb ;"  it  is  now, 
like  the  Balm  of  Gilead,  entitled,  I  believe,  a  weed.  Among  the 
North  American  Indians  even  the  spirits  smoke;  tlic  "Indian 
summer"  is  supposed  to  arise  from  the  puffs  that  proceed  from 
the  pipe  of  Nanabozhoo,  the  Ojibwa  Noah.  The  pipe  may  have 
been  used  in,  the  East  before  the  days  of  tobacco,  but  if  so  it  was 
probably  applied  to  the  inhalation  of  cannabis  and  other  intoxi- 
cants.* On  the  other  hand,  the  Indian  had  no  stimulants.  He 
never  invented  the  beer  of  Osiris,  though  maize  grew  abundantly 
around  him;f  the  koumiss  of  the  Tartar  was  beyond  his  mental 

♦  Tlie  word  tobacco  (West  Indian,  tobaRo  or  tobacco,  a  peculiar  pipe),  wliich  has 
(spread  tlirough  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  seems  to  prove  tlie  origin  of  the  nicotiana, 
and  the  non-mention  of  smol^ing  in  the  "  Arabian  Nights"  disj)roves  the  habit  of  in- 
haling any  other  succedaneuin. 

t  It  has  long  been  disputed  whether  mnizo  was  indigenous  to  America  or  to  Asia; 
k'arned  names  uro  found  on  both  sides  of  the  question.     In  Central  Africa  the  ce- 


Chap.  II. 


THE  SMOKING  KITE. 


Ill 


reacli;  and  thougli "  Jimsen  weed"*  overruns  the  land,  lie  neglect- 
ed its  valuable  intoxicating  properties.   His  is  almost  tlie  only  race 
that  has  ever  existed  wholly  without  a  stimulant ;  the  fact  is  a 
strong  proof  of  its  autochthonio  origin.    It  is  indeed  incredible 
that  man,  having  once  learned,  should  ever  forget  the  means  of 
getting  drunk.   Instead  of  the  social  cup  the  Indian  smoked.   Aa 
tobacco  does  not  grow  throughout  the  continent,  he  invented  kin- 
nikinik.    This  Indian  word  has  many  meanings.    Bv  the  hunt- 
ers and  settlers  it  is  applied  to  a  mixture  of  half  and  half,  or  two 
thirds  tobacco  and  one  of  red  willow  bark ;  others  use  it  for  a 
mixture  of  tobacco,  sumach  leaves,  and  willow  rind ;  others,  like 
Buxton  ("  Life  in  the  Far  West,"  p.  116),  for  the  cortex  of  the  wil- 
low only.    This  tree  grows  abundantly  in  copses  near  the  streams 
and  water-courses.  For  smoking,  the  twigs  are  cut  when  the  leaves 
begin  to  redden.    Some  tribes,  like  the  Sioux,  remove  the  outer 
and  use  only  the  highly-colored  inner  bark ;  others  again,  like_  the 
Shoshonees,  employ  the  external  as  well  as  the  internal  cuticle. 
It  is  scraped  down  the  twig  in  curling  ringlets,  without,  however, 
stripping  it  off;  the  stick  is  then  planted  in  the  ground  before  the 
fire,  and,  when  sufficiently  parched,  the  material  is  bruised,  com- 
minuted, and  made  ready  for  use.     The  taste  is  pleasant  and  aro- 
matic, but  the  effect  is  that  of  the  puerile  ratan  rather  than  the 
manly  tobacco.    The  Indian,  be  it  observed,  smokes  like  all  sav- 
ages by  inhaling  the  fumes  into  the  lungs,  and  returning  them 
through  the  nostrils ;  he  finds  pure  tobacco,  therefore,  too  strong 
and  pungent.     As  has  been  said,  he  is  catholic  in  his  habits  of 
smoking;  he  employs  indifferently  rose-bark (/fosa  hlanda?Y(  and 
the  cuticle  of  a  cornus,  the  lobelia,^  the  larb,  a  vaccinium,  a  Daph- 
ne-like plant,  and  many  others.    The  Indian  smokes  incessantly, 
and  the  "  calumet"§  is  an  important  part  of  his  household  goods. 

real  is  now  called  as  in  English,  "Indian  corn,"  proving  that  in  that  continent  it  first 
was  introduced  from  Hindostan.  The  Italians  have  named  it  Gran'  Turco,  showing 
whence  it  was  imported  by  them.  Tlio  word  maiz,  mays,  maize,  or  mahiz,  is  a  Carib 
word  introduced  by  the  Spaniards  into  Europe ;  in  the  United  States,  where  "corn' 
is  universally  used,  maize  is  intelligible  only  to  the  educated. 

•  Properly  Jamestown  weed,  the  Datura  stramonium,  the  English  thorn-api)le,  un- 
prcttily  called  in  tlio  Northern  States  of  America  "stinkweed."  It  found  its  way 
into  tfic  higlicr  latitudes  from  Jamestown  (Virginia),  wliero  it  was  first  observed 
springing  on  heaps  of  ballast  and  other  rubbish  discharged  from  vessels.  According 
to  Beverly  ("History  of  Virginia,"  book  ii.,  quoted  by  Mr.  Bartlctt),  it  is  "one  of  tlio 
greatest  coolers  in  tlio  world;"  and  in  some  young  soldiers  who  ate  plentifully  of  it 
as  a  salad,  to  pacify  tlic  troubles  of  bacon,  the  effect  was  "  a  very  pleasant  remedy,  for 
they  turned  natural  fools  ujion  it  for  several  days." 

t  The  wild  rose  is  every  where  met  with  growing  in  bouquets  on  the  prairies. 

t  The  TjobeUa  in/lata,  or  Indian  toliacco,  is  corrupted  by  the  ignorant  Western  man 
to  low  belia  in  contradistinction  to  higli  telia,  better  varieties  of  the  jilant. 

§  The  calumet,  a  word  introiluccd  by  the  old  French,  is  the  red  sandstone  pipe, 
described  in  a  iirevious  i)age,  with  a  long  tul)e,  generally  a  reed,  adorned  with  feath- 
ers It  is  the  Indian  svmbol  of  hatred  or  amity ;  there  is  a  calumet  of  war  as  well 
as  a  calumet  of  peace.  'To  accept  the  calumet  is  to  come  to  terms ;  to  refuse  it  is  to 
reject  tlicm.  The  same  is  expressed  by  burying  and  digging  up  the  tomahawk  or 
hatchet.  The  tomahawk  and  calumet  are  soinetinics  nuulo  of  one  piece  of  stone ; 
specimens,  however,  have  becomo  very  rare  since  the  introduction  of  the  iron  axe. 


112 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


He  has  many  superstitions  about  the  practice.  It  is  a  sacred  in- 
strument, and  its  red  color  typifies  the  smoker's  flesh.  The  West- 
cm  travelers  mention  offerings  of  tobacco  to,  and  smoking  of  pipes 
in  honor  of,  the  Great  Spirit.  Some  men  will  vow  never  to  use 
the  pipe  in  public,  others  to  abstain  on  particular  days.  Some 
will  not  smoke  with  their  moccasins  on,  others  with  steel  about 
their  i3ersons ;  some  arc  pledged  to  abstain  inside,  others  outside 
the  wigwam,  and  many  scatter  buffalo  chip  over  their  tobacco. 
When  beginning  to  smoke  there  are  certain  observances ;  some, 
exempli  gratia,  direct,  after  the  fashion  of  Gitche  Manitou,  the  first 
puff  upward  or  heavenward,  the  second  earthward,  and  the  third 
and  fourth  over  the  right  and  left  shoulders,  probably  in  propitia- 
tion of  the  ghosts,  who  are  being  smoked  for  in  proxy ;  others, 
before  the  process  of  inhaling,  touch  the  ground  with  the  heel  of 
the  pipe-bowl,  and  turn  the  stem  upward  and  averted. 

According  to  those  who,  like  Pennant,  derive  the  North  Amer- 
ican from  the  Scythians,  scalping  is  a  practice  that  originated  in 
High  and  Northeastern  Asia.  The  words  of  the  Father  of  His- 
tory are  as  follows:  "Of  the  first  enemy  a  Scythian  sends  down, 
he  quaffs  the  blood ;  he  carries  the  heads  of  all  that  he  has  slain 
in  battle  to  the  king ;  for  when  he  has  brought  a  head,  hg  is  en- 
titled to  a  share  of  the  booty  that  may  be  taken — not  otherwise ; 
to  skin  the  head,  he  makes  a  circular  incision  from  ear  to  ear, 
and  then,  laying  hold  of  the  crown,  shakes  out  the  skull ;  after 
scrapir-^  off  the  flesh  with  an  ox's  rib,  he  rumples  it  between 
his  hands,  and  having  thus  softened  the  skin,  makes  use  of  it  as 
a  napkin ;  he  appends  it  to  the  bridle  of  the  horse  he  rides,  and 
prides  himself  on  this,  for  the  Scythian  that  has  most  of  these  skin 
napkins  is  adjudged  the  best  man,  etc.,  etc.     They  also  use  the 

entire  skins  as  horse-cloths,  also  the  skulls  for  drinking-cups." 

("Melpomene,"  iv.,  6-i,  Laurent's  trans.)  The  underlying  idea  is 
doubtless  the  natural  wish  to  preserve  a  memorial  of  a  foeman 
done  to  death,  and  at  the  same  time  to  dishonor  his  hateful  corpse 
by  mutilation.  Fashion  and  tradition  regulate  the  portions  of 
the  human  fi  ame  preferred. 

Scalping  is  generally,  but  falsely,  supposed  to  be  a  peculiarly 
American  practice.  The  Abbu  Em.  Domcnech  ("  Seven  Years' 
Ecsidence  in  the  Great  Deserts  of  North  America,"  chap,  xxxix.) 
quotes  the  fkcalvare  of  the  ancient  Germans,  the  capillos  ct  cuteni 
detrahcre  of  the  code  of  the  Visigoths,  and  the  annals  of  Flude, 
which  prove  that  the  "  Anglo-Saxons"  and  the  Franks  still  scalp- 
ed about  A.D.  879.  And  as  the  modern  American  practice  is 
traceable  to  Eurojio  and  Asia,  so  it  may  be  found  in  Africa,  where 
aught  of  ferocity  is  rarely  wanting.     "  In  a  short  time  after  our 


'ho  "Song  of  Ilinwntha"  (Canto  I.,  The  Tcnco  Pipe)  and  the  interesting  "Lot- 
p  nnd  Notes  on  tiie  Manners,  CiistomK,  nnd  Conditions  of  the  Ni)rtli  Aniericnn  In- 
inns  '  (vol.  ii.,  p.  ICO),  have  made  the  lied  I'iiMj-stoue  yuuny  familiar  to  the  £u. 


The 
ters 
d 
glishmau 


ClIAP.  II. 


THE  SCALPING  BITE. 


113 


return,"  says  Mr. Duncan  ("Travels  in  Western  Africa  in  1845 
and  1846"),  "  the  Apadomey  regiment  passed,  on  their  return,  in 
single  file,  each  leading  in  a  string  a  young  male  or  female  slave, 
carrying  also  the  dried  scalp  of  one  man  supposed  to  have  been 
killed  in  the  attack.  On  all  such  occasions,  when  a  person  is 
killed  in  battle,  the  skin  is  taken  from  the  head  and  kept  as  a 
trophv  of  valor.  It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  female  war- 
riors kill  according  to  the  number  of  scalps  presented ;  the  scalps 
arc  the  accumulation  of  many  years.  If  six  or  seven  men  are 
killed  during  one  year's  war  it  is  deemed  a  great  thing;  one  party 
always  run  away  in  these  slave-hunts;  but  where  armies  meet 
the  slaughter  is  great.  I  counted  700  scalps  pass  in  this  manner." 
But  mutilation,  like  cannibalism,  tattooing,  and  burying  in  bar- 
rows, is  so  natural  under  certain  circumstances  to  man's  mind 
that  we  distinctly  require  no  traditional  derivation. 

Scalp-taking  is  a  solemn  rite.  In  the  good  old  times  braves 
scrupulously  awaited  the  wounded  man's  death  before  they  "  raised 
his  hair ;"  in  the  laxity  of  modern  days,  however,  this  humane 
custom  is  too  often  disregarded.  Properly  speaking,  the  trophy 
should  be  taken  after  fair  fight  with  a  hostile  warrior ;  this  also 
is  now  neglected.  When  the  Indian  sees  his  enemy  fall  he  draws 
his  scalp-knife — the  modern  is  of  iron,  formerly  it  was  of  flint,  ob- 
sidian, or  other  hard  stone — and  twisting  the  scalp-lock,  which  is 
left  long  for  that  purpose,  and  boastfully  braided  or  decorated  with 
some  gaudy  ribbon  or  with  the  war-eagle's  plume,  round  his  left 
hand,  makes  with  the  right  two  semicircular  incisions,  with  and 
against  the  sun,  about  the  part  to  be  removed.  The  skin  is  next 
loosened  with  the  knife-point,  if  there  be  time  to  spare  and  if  there 
be  much  scalp  to  be  taken.  The  operator  then  sits  on  the  ground, 
places  his  feet  against  the  subject's  shoulders  by  way  of  leverage, 
and,  holding  the  scalp-lock  with  both  hands,  he  applies  a  strain 
which  soon  brings  off  the  spoils  with  a  sound  which,  I  am  told, 
is  not  unlike  "  flop,"  Without  the  long  lock  it  would  be  difiicult 
to  remove  the  scalp ;  prudent  white  travelers,  therefore,  are  care- 
ful, before  setting  out  tlarough  an  Indian  country,  to  "shingle  off" 
their  hair  as  closely  as  possible;  the  Indian,  moreover,  hardly 
cares  for  a  half-fledged  scalp.  To  judge  from  the  long  love-locks 
affected  by  the  hunter  and  mountaineer,  ho  seems  to  think  lightly 
of  this  precaution ;  to  hold  it,  in  fact,  a  point  of  honor  that  the 
savage  should  have  a  fair  chance.  A  few  cunning  men  have  sur- 
prised their  adversaries  with  wigs.  The  operation  of  scalping 
must  be  exceedingly  painful ;  the  sufferer  turns,  wriggles,  and 
"sc[uirms"  upon  the  ground  like  a  scotched  snake.  It  is  supposed 
to  induce  brain  fever;  many  instances,  however,  are  known  of 
men  and  even  women  recovering  from  it,  as  the  former  do  from 
a  more  dreadful  infliction  in  Abyssinia  and  Galla-land ;  cases  are 
of  course  rare,  as  a  disabling  wound  is  generally  inflicted  before 
the  bloodier  work  is  done. 

H 


! 


r  a.i-„ 

t 
I 


I 


It 


». 


I     i! 

'  <  !  li 


i 

i 

I 

f 

i; 

1 

i 

■     -n 

k 

1      1    ^ 

, 

U 

luii^ 

^ 

i 

^'i 

114 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


After  taking  the  scalp,  tlie  Indian  warrior — proud  as  if  he  had 
won  a  medaille  de  sauvetayp. — prepares  for  return  to  hjs  village. 
He  lingers  outside  for  a  few  days,  and  then,  after  painting  his 
hands  and  face  with  lampblack,  appears  slowly  and  silently  before 
his  lodge.  There  he  squats  for  a  while ;  his  relatives  and  friends, 
accompanied  by  the  elders  of  the  tribe,  sit  with  him  dumb  as  him- 
self. Presently  the  question  is  put ;  it  is  answered  with  truth,  al- 
though these  warriors  at  other  times  will  lie  like  Cretans,  The 
"  coup"  is  recounted,  however,  with  abundant  glorification ;  the 
Indians,  like  the  Greek  and  Arab  of  their  classical  ages,  are  allow- 
ed to  vent  their  self-esteem  on  such  occasions  without  blame,  and 
to  enjoy  a  treat  for  which  the  civilized  modern  liero  longs  ardent- 
ly, but  in  vain.  Finally  the  "  green  scalp,"  after  being  dried  and 
mounted,  is  consecrated  by  the  solemn  dance,  and  becomes  then 
fit  for  public  exhibition.  Some  tribes  attach  it  to  a  long  pole 
used  as  a  standard,  and  others  to  their  horses'  bridles,  others  to 
their  targes,  while  others  ornament  with  its  fringes  the  outer 
scams  of  their  leggins;  in  fact,  its  uses  arc  many.  The  more 
scalps  the  more  honor ;  the  young  man  who  can  not  boast  of  a 
single  murder  or  show  the  coveted  trophy  is  held  in  such  scant 
esteem  as  the  English  gentleman  who  contents  himself  with  being 

Eassing  rich  on  a  hundred  pounds  a  year.  Some  great  war-chiefs 
avo  collected  a  heap  of  these  honorable  spoils.  It  must  be  re- 
membered by  "curio"  hunters  that  only  one  scalp  can  come  off 
one  head  ;  namely,  the  centre  lock  or  long  tuft  growing  upon  the 
coronal  apex,  with  about  three  inches  in  diameter  of  skin.  This 
knowledge  is  the  more  needful,  a.s  the  Western  men  arc  in  the 
habit  of  manufiicturing  half  a  dozen  cut  from  dift'erent  parts  of 
the  same  bead ;  they  sell  readily  for  $50  each,  but  the  transaction 
is  not  considered  reputable.  The  connoisseur,  however,  readily 
distinguishes  tiie  real  article  from  "  fal.-e  scalping"  by  the  unusual 
thickness  of  the  cutis,  which  is  more  like  that  of  a  donkey  than 
of  a  man.  Set  in  a  plain  gold  circlet  it  makes  a  very  pretty 
brooch.  Moreover,  each  tribe  has  its  own  fashion  of  scalping  de- 
rived from  its  forefathers.  The  Sioux,  for  instance,  when  they 
have  leisure  to  perform  the  operation,  remove  the  whole  beau- 
skin,  including  a  portion  of  the  oars ;  they  then  sit  down  and  dis- 
pose the  ears  upon  the  boms  of  a  buffalo  skull,  and  a  bit  of  the 
llesh  upon  little  lieaps  of  earth  or  clay,  disposed  in  quincunx,  ap- 
parently as  an  offering  to  the  manes  of  their  ancestors,  and  they 
Bmoke  ccTcmoniously,  begging  the  manitou  to  send  them  plenty 
more.  The;  trophy  is  then  stretched  upon  a  willow  twig  bfTut 
into  an  oval  shape,  and  lined  with  two  semi-ovals  of  black  or  blue 
and  scarlet  cloth.  The  Yutaa  and  the  Prairie  tribes  generally, 
when  pressed  for  time,  merely  tflke  off  the  jioll  skin  tliat  grows 
the  Itnig  tuft  of  buir,  while  the  Cbyuagara  or  Ne/-  I*erci's  prefer  a 
long  strip  about  two  inches  wide,  extending  from  the  nape  to  the 
commissure  of  the  hair  and  forehead.     The  fingers  of  the  slain 


Chap.  II. 

are  often : 
of  the  avi 
Near  Alk 
campmen 
the  imitat 
nantly  re] 
less  have 
the  whole 

It  is  nc 
able  to  in 
propagan( 
the  great 
semblance 
as  their  ir 
and  their 
be  spells  i 
well  with 
given  ear 
peanizatic 
zation  of 
shadow  ol 
can  be  do 
influence, 
came  a  C 
and  lastly 
surviving 

As  mig 
ceremonit 
cated  obs( 
in  many , 
lactation, 
words  gi\ 
There  are 
entitled  I 
dead,  and 
names  are 
"  Breaker 
coarse  am 
Saddle,"  I 
whimsical 
Fire,""T 
"  Mavi  yt 
ing  his  fat 
like  that  i 
ted.  Tht 
properties 

*  The  oj 
nnmo  in  givi 


Chap.  II. 


INDIAN  NAMES, 


are  often  reserved  for  s^vignds  and  necklaces.  Indians  are  aware 
of  the  aversion  with  which  the  pale  faces  regard  this  barbarity. 
Near  Alkali  Lake,  where  there  was  a  large  Dakotah  ""tipi"  or  en- 
campment of  Sioux,  I  tried  to  induce  a  tribesman  to  go  through 
the  imitative  process  before  me ;  he  refused  with  a  gesture  indig- 
nantly repudiating  the  practice.  A  glass  of  whisky  would  doubt- 
less have  changed  his  mind,  but  I  was  unwilling  to  break  through 
the  wholesome  law  that  prohibits  it. 

It  is  not  wonderful  that  the  modern  missionary  should  be  un- 
able to  influence  siich  a  brain  as  the  Prairie  Indian's.  Tho  old 
propagandists,  Jesuits  and  Franciscans,  became  medicine-men :  like 
the  great  fraternity  in  India,  they  succeeded  by  the  points  of  re- 
semblance which  tnc  savages  remarked  in  their  observances,  such 
as  their  images  and  rosanes,  which  would  be  regarded  as  totems, 
and  their  fastings  and  prayers,  which  were  of  course  supposed  to 
be  spells  and  charms.  Their  successors  have  succeeded  about  as 
well  with  the  Indian  as  with  the  African ;  the  settled  tribes  have 
given  ear  to  them,  the  Prairie  wanderers  have  not ;  and  the  Euro- 
peanization  of  the  Indian  generally  is  hopeless  as  the  Christiani- 
zation  of  the  Hindoo.  The  missionaries  usually  live  under  the 
shadow  of  the  different  agencies,  and  even  they  own  that  nothing 
can  be  done  with  the  children  unless  removed  from  the  parent^ 
influence.  I  do  not  believe  that  an  Indian  of  tlio  plains  ever  be- 
came a  Christian.  He  must  first  be  humanized,  then  civilized, 
and  lastly  Christianized ;  and,  as  has  been  said  before,  I  doubt  his 
surviving  the  operation. 

As  might  bo  expected  of  the  Indian's  creed,  it  has  few  rites  and 
ceremonies ;  circumcision  is  unknown,  and  it  ignores  the  compli- 
cated observances  which,  in  the  case  of  the  Hindoo  Pantheist,  and 
in  many  African  tribes,  wait  upon  gestation,  parturition,  and  al- 
lactation.  The  child  is  seldom  named.*  Ihcro  are  but  five 
words  given  in  regular  order  to  distinguish  one  from  another. 
There  are  no  family  names.  The  men,  after  notable  exploits,  are 
entitled  by  their  tribes  to  assume  the  titles  of  tho  distinguished 
dead,  and  each  fresh  deed  brings  a  new  distinction.  Some  of  the 
names  arc  poetical  enough :  tho  "  Black  Night,"  for  instance,  the 
''  Breaker  of  Arrows,"  or  the  "  War  Eagle's  Wing ;"  others  are 
coarse  and  ridiculous, such  as  "  Squash-head,"  "Bull's-tail,"  "Dirty 
Saddle,"  and  "  Steam  from  n  Cow's  Belly ;"  not  a  few  bear  a 
whimsical  likeness  to  those  of  the  African  negroes,  as  "His  Great 
Firo,"  "The  Water  goes  in  the  Path,"  and  "Buffalo  Chips"— the 
"  Mavi  ya  dnombo"  of  Unyamwezi.  Tho  son  of  n  chief  succeed- 
ing his  father  usually  assumes  his  name,  so  that  tho  little  dynasty, 
like  that  of  tho  Pharaohs,  the  Uomuli,  or  the  Numas,  is  perpetua- 
ted. The  wcunen  are  not  unfrequently  called  after  the  parts  and 
properties  of  some  adttiirod  or  valued  animal,  as  tho  W  lito  Mar- 

•  Tho  Ojihwa  and  other  race*  bavo  tho  wreinony  of  a  burnt-offer<ng  when  the 
nnmu  is  given. 


HHN 


116 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


tin,  the  Young  Mink  *  or  tlio  Muskrat's  Paw.  In  the  north  there 
have  been  men  with  as  many  as  seven  wives,  all  "  Martins."  The 
Prairie  Indians  form  the  names  of  the  women  like  those  of  men, 
adding  the  feminine  sufiix,  as  Cloud-woman,  Eed-earth-woman, 
Black-day-woman.  The  white  stranger  is  ever  offending  Indian 
etiquette  by  asking  the  savage  "  What's  your  name  ?"  The  per- 
son asked  looks  aside  for  a  friend  to  assist  him ;  he  has  learned  in 
boyhood  that  some  misfortune  will  happen  to  him  if  he  discloses 
his  name.  Even  husbands  and  wives  never  mention  each  other's 
names.     The  same  practice  prevails  in  many  parts  of  Asia. 

Marriage  is  a  simple  affair  with  them.  In  some  tribes  the  bride, 
as  among  the  Australians,  is  carried  off  by  force.  In  others  the 
man  who  wants  a  wife  courts  her  with  a  little  present,  and  pickets 
near  the  father's  lodge  the  number  of  horses  which  he  supposes 
to  be  her  equivalent.  As  among  all  savage  tribes,  the  daughter 
is  a  chattel,  an  item  of  her  father's  goods,  and  he  will  not  part 
with  her  except  for  a  consideration.  The  men  are  of  course  po- 
lygamists ;  they  prefer  to  marry  sisters,  becavse  the  tent  is  more 
quiet,  and  mucn  upon  the  principle  with  which  marriage  with  a 
deceased  wife's  sister  is  advocated  in  England.  The  women,  like 
the  Africans,  are  not  a  little  addicted  to  suicide.  Before  esi)ousal 
the  conduct  of  the  weaker  sex  in  many  tribes  is  flir  from  irre- 
proachable. The  "  bundling"  of  Wales  and  of  New  England  in 
a  former  dayf  is  not  unknown  to  them,  and  many  think  little  of 
that  prcvfjuslado  matrimonii  which,  in  the  eastern  parts  of  the  New 
World,  goes  by  the  name  of  ]<\anny  Wrightism  and  Free-loveism. 
Several  tribes  make  trial,  like  the  Highlanders  before  the  reign 
of  James  the  Fifth,  of  their  wives  for  a  certain  tune  —  a  kind  of 
"hand-fasting,"  which  is  to  morality  what  fetichism  is  to  faith. 
There  arc  few  nations  in  the  world  among  whom  this  practice, 
originating  in  a  natural  desh-o  not  to  "make  a  leap  in  the  dark," 
can  not  bo  traced.  Yet  after  marriage  they  will  live,  like  the 
Spartan  matrons,  a  life  of  austerity  in  relation  to  the  other  sex. 
In  cases  of  divorce,  the  cliildren,  being  property,  arc  divided,  and 
in  most  tribes  the  wife  claims  the  odd  one.  If  the  mother  takes 
any  care  to  preserve  her  daughter's  virtue,  it  is  only  out  of  regard 

•  Putorius  vison,  a  pn-lty  dark-rlK'ntntit-colorod  nnimnt  of  tlio  wpasol  kind,  vhicli 
burrows  in  the  Imiiks  of  Htreams  ncnr  mills  niiil  funii-hoiisoH,  wlioro  it  proys  \ij)on  ihi' 
poultry  liko  tho  rout  of  the  family.  It  swii  m  well,  nnd  can  dive  for  a  long  tirtK'. 
It8  food  in  Hmall  flsli,  niuHHclH,  and  inspctJ*,  but  it  will  ali«o  devour  ratn  nnil  mico. 

t  Traccji  of  this  nnticnt  prnni'o  may  Iw  found  in  tlio  four  quiirtcrs  of  tlio  Rlolto, 
Mr.  BHrtlptt,  in  bin  inMruclivo  vi-lumn,  quotes  tli<<  Upv.  Samuel  I'ike  ("(icncral  His. 
toryof  Conncctirut,"  London,  1781),  who  quaintly  romarks  :  "  NotwithstandinR  tin- 
grcmt  mwloHty  of  tho  females  is  su<li  that  it  would  li •  aceountc^il  the  Rrentost  nide- 
nens  for  a  jjf  "•li'nian  to  speak  lH<fore  o  ladv  of  a  Rnrler  or  a  leg,  yet  it  is  thought  but 
a  pieee  of  civility  to  nsk  her  to  ImndU."  'i'li(>  learned  and  )iious'bi<itorinn  endeavor- 
cd  to  prove  that  bnndlinR  was  not  only  n  Christian,  but  n  verv  jKdito  nn<l  prudent 
practic<'.  So  the  Ilcv.  Andrrw  narnnliV.  who  traveled  in  New  V.nRlantl  in  K.'O-tU), 
thinks  that  ihouKh  bundling  may  "at  first  apisiir  the  rtVeet  of  irrossneKs  ol'dinrae- 
ter,  it  will,  ui»on  docixir  ruMinrdi,  bu  found  to  jirococU  from  biuiplicity  anU  ii'Uo- 
ccncc." 


Chap.  II.     FEMALE  CONDUCT.— CHIEFS.— MODE  OF  LIFE. 


117 


to  its  market  value.  In  some  tribes  the  injured  husband  displays 
all  the  philosophy  of  Cato  and  Socrates.  In  others  the  wife  is 
punished,  like  the  native  of  Hindostan,  by  cutting,  or,  more  gen- 
erally, by  biting  off  the  nose-tip.  Some  slay  the  wife's  lover ; 
others  accept  a  pecuniary  compensation  for  their  dishonor,  and 
take  as  damages  skins  or  horses.  Elopement,  as  among  the  Arabs, 
prevails  in  places.  'The  difference  of  conduct  on  the  part  of  the 
women  of  course  depends  upon  th3  bearing  of  the  men.  "  There 
is  no  adulteress  without  an  adulterer" — meaning  that  the  husband 
is  ever  the  first  to  be  unfaithful  —  is  a  saying  as  old  as  the  days 
of  Mohammed.  Among  the  Arapahocs,  for  instance,  there  is  great 
looseness ;  the  Cheyennes,  on  the  contrary,  are  notably  correct. 
Truth  demands  one  unpleasant  confession,  viz.,  on  the  wiiole,  chas- 
tity is  little  esteemed  among  those  Indians  who  have  been  cor- 
rupted by  intercourse  with  whites. 

The  dignity  of  chief  denotes  in  the  Indian  language  a  royal 
title.  It  is  hereditary  as  a  rule,  but  men  of  low  birth  sometimes 
attain  it  by  winning  a  name  as  warriors  or  medicine-men.  When 
there  are  many  sons  it  often  happens  that  each  takes  command 
of  a  small  clan.  Personal  prowess  is  a  necessity  in  sagamore  and 
sachem :  an  old  man,  therefore,  often  abdicates  in  favor  of  his 
more  vigorous  son,  to  whom  ho  acts  as  guide  and  counselor. 
There  is  one  chief  to  every  band,  with  several  sub-chiefs.  The 
power  possessed  by  the  ruler  depends  upon  bis  individual  char- 
acter, and  the  greater  or  lesser  capacity  for  discipline  in  his  sub- 
jects. Some  arc  obeyed  grudgingly,  as  the  Sheikh  of  a  Bedouin 
tribe.  Others  arc  absolute  monarchs,  who  dispose  of  the  lives 
and  properties  of  their  followers  without  exciting  a  murmur. 
The  counteracting  element  to  despotism  resides  in  the  sub-chief 
and  in  the  council  of  warriors,  who  obstinately  insist  upon  having 
a  voice  in  making  laws,  raising  subsidies,  declaring  wars,  and  rat- 
ifying peace. 

Their  life  is  of  course  simple;  they  have  no  regular  hours  for 
meals  or  sleep.  Before  eating  they  sometimes  make  a  heave-of- 
fering of  a  bit  of  food  toward  the  heavens,  where  their  forefathers 
arc,  and  a  pecond  toward  the  earth,  the  mother  of  all  things:  the 
pieces  are  then  burned.  They  are  not  cannibals,  except  when  a 
warrior,  after  slaying  a  foe,  eats,  porcupine-like,  the  heart  or  liver, 
with  the  idea,  of  increasing  his  own  courage.  The  women  rarely 
sit  at  meals  witli  the  men.  In  savage  and  semi -barbarous  socie- 
ties the  separation  of  the  sexes  is  the  general  rule,  because,  as  they 
have  no  ideas  in  common,  each  prefers  tlio  society  of  its  own. 
Tliey  are  fond  of  adoption  and  of  making  brothcrli'oods,  like  tho 
Africans;  and  so  stronjj;  is  the  tie,  that  marriage  with  tho  sister 
of  an  adopted  bn/thcr  is  within  the  prohibited  degrees.  Gam- 
bling is  a  paHHion  with  tliem :  tliey  play  at  cards,  an  art  probably 
loanuHl  from  tlie  (\'\nadians,  aiul  tho  gamo  is  that  called  in  tho 
States  "  matching,"  on  tho  principle  of  dominoes  or  bcggar-my- 


118 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ClIAP.  11. 


neighbor.    When  excited  they  ejaculate  Will  I  Will  I — sharp  and 
staccato — it  is  possibly  a  conception  of  the  English  well.    But  it 
often  comes  out  in  the  place  of  bad,  as  the  Sepoy  orderly  in  India 
reports  to  his  captain,  "Eamnak  Jamnak  dead,  Joti  Prasad  very 
sick — all  veil  1"     The  savages  win  and  lose  with  the  stoicism  ha- 
bitual to  them,  rarely  drawing  the  "  navajon,"  like  the  Mexican 
"lepero,"  over  a  disputed  point;  and  when  a  man  has  lost  his  last 
rag,  he  rises  in  nude  dignity  and  goes  home.     Their  language  ig- 
nores the  violent  and  offensive  abuse  of  parents  and  female  rela- 
tives, which  distinguishes  the  Asiatic  and  the  African  from  the 
European  Billingsgate :  the  worst  epithets  that  can  be  applied  to 
a  man  are  miser,  coward,  dog,  woman.     With  them  good  temper 
is  good  breeding — a  mark  of  gentle  blood.    A  brave  will  stand 
up  and  harangue  his  enemies,  exulting  how  he  scalped  their  sires, 
and  squaws,  and  sons,  without  calling  forth  a  grunt  of  irritation. 
Ceremony  and  manners,  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  they  have  none, 
and  they  lack  the  profusion  of  salutations  which  usually  distin- 
guishes "barbarians.     An  Indian  appearing  at  your  door  rarely  has 
the  civility  to  wait  till  beckoned  in;  he  enters  the  house,  with  his 
quiet  catlike  gait  and  his  imperturbable  countenance,  saying,  if  a 
Sioux,  "How!"  or  "How!  How!"  meaning  Well?  shakes  hands, 
to  which  he  expects  the  same  reply,  if  he  has  learned  "  paddling 
with  the  j)alms'  from  the  whites — this,  however,  is  only  expected 
by  the,  chiefs  and  braves — and  squats  upon  his  hams  in  the  East- 
ern way,  I  had  almost  said  the  natural  way,  but  to  man,  unlike 
all  other  animals,  every  way  is  equally  natural,  the  chair  or  the 
seat  upon  the  ground.     lie  accepts  a  pipe  if  offered  to  him,  de- 
vours what  you  set  before  him — those  best  acquainted  with  the 
savage,  however,  avoid  all  unnecessary  civility  or  generosity:  Mi- 
lesian-like, he  considers  a  benefit  his  clue,  and  if  withheld,  he  looks 
upon  his  benefactor  as  a  "  mean  man" — talks  or  smokes  as  long 
as  ho  pleases,  and  then  rising,  stalks  off  without  a  word.     His 
ideas  of  time  arc  primitive.     The  hour  is  denoted  by  pointing  out 
the  position  of  the  sun ;  the  days,  or  rather  the  nights,  are  reck- 
onca  by  sleeps;  tiiere  are  no  weeks;  the  moons,  which  arc  liter- 
ally now,  the  old  being  nibbled  away  by  mice,  form  the  montlis, 
and  suns  do  dut;^  for  years.     He  has,  like  the  Bedouin  and  the 
Esquimaux,  sufficient  knowledge  of  the  heavenly  bodies  to  steer 
his  course  over  the  jiathlcss  sage-sea.     Night-work,  however,  ia 
no  favorite  with  him  except  in  cases  of  absolute  necessity.    Count- 
ing is  done  upon  man's  nrst  abacus,  the  fingers,  and  it  rarely  ex- 
tends beyond  ten.     The  value  of  an  article  was  formerly  (k'term- 
ined  by  beads  and  buffaloes;  dollars,  however,  are  now  beginning 
to  be  generally  known. 

The  only  arta  of  the  Indians  are  medicine  and  the  use  of  arms. 
They  are  great  in  the  knowledge  of  simples  and  tisanes.  The 
leaves  of  the  white  willow  an;  the  favorite  emetic ;  wounds  aro 
dressed  with  astringent  herbs,  and  inflanimalioius  are  reduced  by 


If 


Chap.  II. 


FIRE-ARMS —BOWS  AND  ARROWS. 


119 


scarification  and  the  actual  cautery.  Among  some  tribes,  the 
hammam,  or  Turkish  bath,  is  invariably  the  appendage  to  a  vil- 
lage. It  is  an  oven  sunk  in  the  earth,  with,  room  for  about  a 
score  of  persona,  and  a  domed  roof  of  tamped  and  timber-propped 
earth — often  mistaken  for  a  bulge  in  the  ground — pierced  with  a 
little  square  window  for  ventilation  when  not  in  use.  A  fire  is 
kindled  in  the  centre,  and  the  patient,  after  excluding  the  air, 
sits  quietly  in  this  rude  calidarium  till  half  roasted  and  stifled  by 
the  heat  and  smoke.  Finally,  like  the  Kussian  peasant,  he  plunges 
into  the  burn  that  runs  hard  by,  and  feels  his  ailments  dropping 
off  him  with  the  dead  cuticle.  The  Indians  associating  with  the 
hv/rse  have  learned  a  rude  farriery  which  often  succeeds  where 
politer  practice  would  fail.  I  heard  of  one  who  cured  the  bites 
of  rattlesnakes  and  copperheads  by  scarifying  the  wounded  beast's 
face,  plastering  the  place  with  damped  gunpowder  paste  and  set- 
ting it  on  fire. 

Among  the  Prairie  tribes  are  now  to  be  found  individuals  pro- 
vided not  only  with  the  old  muskets  formerly  supplied  to  them, 
but  with  yjigers,*  Sharp's  breech-loaders,  alias  "  Beecher's  Bibles," 
Colt's  revolvers,  and  otlier  really  good  fire-arms.    Their  shooting 
has  improved  with  their  tools:  many  of  them  are  now  able  to 
"draw  a  bead"  with  coolness  and  certainty.     Those  who  can  not 
afford  shooting-irons  content  themselves  with  their  ancient  weap- 
ons, the  lance  and  bow.     The  former  is  a  poor  affair,  a  mere  iron 
spike  from  two  to  three  inches  long,  inserted  into  the  end  of  a 
staff  about  as  thick  as  a  iiindostanee's  bamboo  lance ;  it  is  whip- 
ped round  with  sinew  for  strength,  decorated  with  a  few  bunches 
of  gaudy  feathers,  and  defended  with  the  usual  medicine-bag.    The 
bow  varies  in  dimensions  with  the  different  tribes.     On  tlie  prai- 
ries, for  convenient  use  on  horseback,  it  seldom  exceeds  tliree 
feet  in  length ;  among  the  Southern  Indians  its  size  doubles,  and 
in  parts  of  South  America  it  is  like  that  of  the  Andamans,  a  gi- 
gantic weapon  with  an  arrow  six  feet  long,  and  drawn  by  bring- 
ing the  aid  of  the  feet  to  the  liands.     The  best  bows  among  the 
Sioux  and  Yutas  are  of  horn,  hickory  being  unprocurable ;  an  in- 
ferior sort  ii^  made  of  a  reddish  wood,  in  hue  and  grain  not  unlike 
that  called  "  mountain  mahogany."     A  strip  of  raw-hide  is  fitted 
to  the  back  for  increase  of  elasticity,  and  the  string  is  a  line  of 
twisted  sinew.     When  not  wanted  for  use  the  weapon  is  carried 
in  a  skin  case  slung  over  the  shoulder.    It  is  drawn  with  the  two 
forefingers — not  with  the  forefinger  and  thumb,  as  in  the  East — 
and  generally  the  third  or  ring-finger  is  extended  along  the  string 
to  give  additional  nurclinsc.     Savage  tribes  do  little  in  the  way 
of  handicraft,  but  that  little  they  do  patiently,  slowly,  and  there- 
fore well.     'IMie  bow  and  arrow  are  admirably  adapled  to  their 
purpose.     The  latter  is  either  a  reed  or  a  bit  of  arrow-wood  ( Vi- 
humrivi  dentatum),  whoso  long,  straight,  and  tough  stems  arc  used 
•  An  antifinatcd  sort  of  Gcmian  rifle,  formerly  used  by  the  federal  troops. 


120 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


h^  the  fletclier  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific.    The  piles  are 
triangles  of  iron,  agate,  flint,  chalcedony,  opal,  or  other  hard  stone : 
for  war  purposes  they  are  barbed,  and  bird-bolts  tipped  with  hard 
wood  are  used  for  killing  small  game.     Some  tribes  poison  their 
shafts :  the  material  is  the  juice  of  a  buffalo's  or  an  antelope's 
liver  when  it  has  become  green  and  decomposed  after  the  bite  of 
a  rattlesnake ;  at  least  this  is  the  account  which  all  the  hunters 
and  mountaineers  give  of  it.     They  have  also,  I  believe,  vegeta- 
ble poisons.     The  feathers  are  three  in  number ;  those  preferred 
are  the  hawk's  and  the  raven's ;  and  some  tribes  glue,  while  oth- 
ers whip  them  on  with  tendon-thread.     The  stele  is  invariably 
indented  from  the  feathers  to  the  tip  with  a  shallow  spiral  fur- 
row :   this  vermiculation  is  intended,  according  to  the  traders,  to 
hasten  death  by  letting  air  into  or  letting  blood  out  of  the  wound. 
It  is  probably  the  rem.nant  of  some  superstition  now  obsolete,  for 
every  man  docs  it,  while  no  man  explains  why  or  wherefore.    If 
the  Indian  works  well,  he  does  not  work  quickly ;  he  will  expend 
upon  half  a  dozen  arrows  as  many  months.    Each  tribe  has  its 
own  mark;  the  Pawnees,  for  instance,  make  a  bulge  below  the 
notch.    Individuals  also  have  private  signs  which  enable  them  to 
claim  a  disputed  scalp  or  buffalo  robe.    In  battle  or  chase  the  ar- 
rows are  held  in  the  left  hand,  and  arc  served  out  to  tlic  right 
with  such  rapidity  that  one  long  string  of  them  seems  to  be  cleav- 
ing the  air.     A  good  Sioux  archer  will,  it  is  said,  discharge  nine 
arrows  upward  before  the  first  has  fallen  to  the  ground,    lie  will 
transfix  a  bison  and  find  his  shaft  upon  the  earth  on  the  other 
side;  and  he  shows  his  dexterity  by  discliarging  the  arrow  up  to 
its  middle  in  the  quarry  and  by  withdrawing  it  before  the  animal 
falls.     Tales  are  told  of  a  single  warrior  killing  several  soldiers; 
and  as  a  rule,  at  short  distances,  the  bow  is  considered  by  the 
whites  a  more  effectual  wea])on  than  the  gun.     It  is  related  that 
when  the  Sioux  first  felt  the  eifects  of  Colt's  revolver,  the  weapon, 
after  two  shots,  hajipcned  to  slip  from  the  owner's  grasp ;  when 
ho  recovered  it  an(l  fired  a  third  time  all  fied,  declaring'  that  a 
white  was  shooting  them  with  bufi^alo  chii)s.     WonderHd  tales 
are  told  of  the  Indians'  accuracy  with  the  bow :  they  hold  it  no 
great  feat  to  put  the  arrow  into  a  keyhole  at  the  distance  of  forty 
)acos.     It  is  true  that  I  never  saw  any  thing  surprising  in  their 
jorformancea,  but  the  savage  will  not  take  the  trouble'^ to  waste 
lis  skill  without  an  object. 

The  Sioux  tongue,  like  the  Pawnee,  is  easily  learned ;  govern- 
ment officials  and  settlers  acquire  it  as  the  Anglo-Indian  docs 
Ilindostanee.  Tlioy  arc  assisted  by  the  excellent  grannnar  and 
dictionary  of  the  Dakotah  ]anguag(>,  collated  by  the  members  of 
the  Dakotah  Mission,  edited  by  tlie  Kev.  S.  K.  Higgs,  M.A.  and 
accepted  for  public.-ition  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  Doc'ein • 
ber,  1851.  The  Dakotah -English  part  contains  about  10,000 
words,  and  the  bibliograj)hy  (spelling-books,  tracts,  and  transla- 


Chap.  II. 


THE  SIOUX  LANGUAGE. 


121 


tions)  numbered  ten  years  ago  eighteen  small  volumes.  The  work 
is  compiled  in  a  scholar-like  manner.  The  orthography,  though 
rather  complicated,  is  intelligible,  and  is  a  great  improvement 
upon  the  old  and  unartistic  way  of  writing  the  polysynthetic  In- 
dian tongues,  syllable  by  syllable,  as  though  they  were  mono- 
syllabic Chinese ;  the  superfluous  h  (as  Dakota/i  for  Dakota),  by 
which  the  broad  sound  of  the  terminal  a  is  denoted,  has  been 
justly  cast  out.  The  peculiar  letters  cli,  p,  and  t,  are  denoted  by 
a  dot  beneath  the  simple  sound ;  similarly  the  h  (or  Arabic  Tcaf\ 
thegh  (the  Semitic  r/Ziam)  and  the  Jch  {Jchd),  which,  as  has  happen- 
ed in  I^ranco- Arabic  grammars,  was  usually  expressed  by  an  B. 
An  apostrophe  {s'a)  denotes  the  hiatus,  which  is  similar  to  the 
Arab's  hamzah. 

Vater  long  ago  remarked  that  the  only  langu  iges  which  had  a 
character,  if  not  similar,  at  any  rate  analogous  tc  thn  American, 
are  the  Basque  and  the  Congo,  that  is,  the  South  African  or  Kaffir 
family.  This  is  the  case  in  many  points:  in  Dakotah,  for  instance, 
as  in  Kisawahili,  almost  every  word  ends  in  a  pure  or  a  nasalized 
vowel.  But  the  striking  novelty  of  the  African  tongues,  the  in- 
flexion of  words  by  an  initial,  not,  as  with  us,  by  a  terminal  change 
^  and  the  complex  system  of  euphony,  does  not  appear  in  the  i^er- 
ican,  which  in  its  turn  possesses  a  dual  unknown  to  the  African. 
The  Dakotah,  like  the  Kaffir,  has  no  gender;  it  uses  the  personal 
and  impersonal,  which  is  an  older  distinction  in  language.  It  fol- 
lows the  primitive  and  natural  arrangement  of  speech :  it  says,  for 
instance,  "aguyapi  maku  yc,"  bread  to  me  give;  as  in  Ilindos- 
tanee,  to  quote  no  other,  "roti  hamko  do."  So  in  logical  argu- 
ment it  begins  with  the  conclusion  and  proceeds  to  the  premisses, 
which  renders  it  difficult  for  a  European  to_  think  in  Dakotah. 
Like  other  American  tongues,  it  is  polysynthetic,  which  appears 
to  be  the  cffijct  of  arrested  development.  Human  speech  begins 
with  inorganic  sounds,  which  represent  symbolism  by  means  of 
arrows  pointed  in  a  certain  direction,  bent  trees,  crossed  rods, 
and  other  similar  contrivances.  Its  lirst  step  is  monosyllabic, 
which  corresponds  with  the  pictograph,  the  earliest  attempt  at 
writing  among  the  uncivilized.*  The  next  advance  is  polysyn- 
thesis,  which  is  apparently  built  upon  monosyllabism,  as  the  idio- 
graph  of  the  Chinese  upon  a  picture  or  glyph.  The  last  step  is 
the  syllabic  and  inflected,  corresponding  with  the  Phoenico- Ara- 
bian alphabet,  which  gave  rise  to  the  Greek,  the  Latin,  and  their 
descendants.  The  conv.lexity  of  Dakotah  grammar  is  another 
illustration  of  tlic  phenomenon  that  man  in  most  thing  in  lan- 
guage especially,  begins  with  the  most  difficult  and  works  on  to- 
ward the  facile.  Savages,  who  have  no  mental  exercise  but  the 
cultivation  of  speech,  and  semi-barbarous  people,  who  still  retain 

♦  A  KiifTlr  niil  wi^liiiiK  to  give  a  liint  to  n  fiioiid  of  mine  drew  n  scttinp  sun,  n 
trcp,  mid  two  tigurcs  stuiiUing  under  it;  intelligible  enough,  yet  the  Kiilllrs  ignoro 
It  Kylltibiirium. 


^d 


km 

tA   if  -  1 


122 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


the  habit,  employ  complicated  and  highly  elaborate  tongues,  e.  gr., 
Arabic,  Sanscrit,  Latin,  Greek,  Kaffir,  and  Anglo-Saxon.  With 
time  these  become  more  simple ;  the  modus  operandi  appears  to 
be  admixture  of  race. 

The  Dakotahs  have  a  sacred  language,  used  by  medicine-men, 
and  rendered  unintelligible  to  the  vulgar  by  words  borrowed  from 
other  Indian  dialects,  and  by  synonyms,  e.  g.,  biped  for  man,  quad- 
ruped for  wolf.  A  chief,  asking  for  an  ox  or  cow,  calls  it  a  dog, 
and  a  horse,  moccasins :  possibly,  like  Orientals,  he  superstitiously 
avoids  direct  mention,  and  speaks  of  the  object  wanted  by  a  hum- 
bler name.  Poetry  is  hardly  required  in  a  language  so  highly 
figurative :  a  hi-hi-hi-hi-hi,  occasionally  interrupted  by  a  few  words, 
composes  their  songs.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Pond  gives  the  following 
specimen  of  "  Blackboy's''  Mourning  Song  for  his  Grandson,  ad- 
dressed to  those  of  Ghostland : 

Friend,  pause,  nml  look  this  way ; 
Friend,  puuse,  and  look  this  way ; 
Friend,  pause,  and  look  thi-:  way ; 

Say  ye, 
A  Grandson  of  Blackboy  is  coming. 

Theif  speech  is  sometimes  metaphorical  to  an  extent  which  con- 
veys an  opposite  meaning:  "Friend,  thou  art  a  fool;  thou  hast  let 
the  Ojibwa  strike  thee,"  is  the  highest  form  of  eulogy  to  a  brave 
who  has  killed  and  scalped  a  foe ;  possibly  a  Malocchio-like  fear, 
the  dread  of  praise,  which,  according  to  Pliny,  kills  in  India,  un- 
derlies the  habit. 

The  funerals  differ  in  every  tribe ;  the  Sioux  expose  their  dead, 
wrapped  in  blankets  or  buffalo  robes,  upon  tall  poles — a  custom 
that  reminds  us  of  the  Parsee's  "  Tower  of  Silence."     The  Yutas 
make  their  graves  high  up  the  kanyons,  usually  in  clefts  of  rock. 
Some  bury  the  dead  at  full  length ;  others  sitting  or  doubled  up ; 
others  on  horseback,  with  a  barrow  or  tumulus  of  earth  heaped 
up  over  their  remains.     The  absence  of  grave-yards  in  an  Indian 
country  is  as  remarkable  as  in  the  African  interior;  thinness  of 
population  and  tlie  savage's  instinctive  dislike  to  any  memento 
mori  are  the  causes.    After  deaths  the  "  keening"  is  long,  loud,  and 
lasting:  the  women,  and  often  the  men,  cut  their  hair  close,  not 
allowing  it  to  fall  below  the  shoulders,  and  not  unfrcqucntly  gash 
themselves,  and  amputate  one  or  more  fingers.     The  dead  man,, 
espcciallly  a  chief,  is  in  almost  all  tribes  provided  with  a  viati- 
cum, dead  or  alive,  of  squaws  and  boys — generally  those  taken 
from  another  tribe — horses  and  dogs ;  hi.s  lodge  is  burned,  liis 
arms,  cooking  utensils,  saddles,  and  other  accoutrements  are  bur- 
ied with  him,  and  a  goodly  store  of  buftalo  meat  or  other  provi- 
sion is  placed  by  his  side,  that  his  ghost  may  want  nothing  which 
it  enjoyed  in  the  flesh.     Like  all  savages,  the  Indian  is  unable  to 
separate  the  idea  of  man's  immaterial  spirit  from  man's  material 
wants:  an  impalpable  and  invisible  form  of  matter — called  "spir- 


Chap.  ll. 


THE  INDIAN  PANTOMIME. 


123 


it"  because  it  i3  not  cogi  izable  to  the  senses,  whicL.  are  tlie  only- 
avenues  of  all  knowledge— is  as  unintelligible  to  them  as  to  a  Lat- 
ter-Day Saint,  or,  indeed,  as  to  the  mind  of  man  generally.  Hence 
the  Indian's, smoking  and  offerings  over  the  graves  of  friends. 
Some  tribes  mourn  on  the  same  day  of  each  moon  till  grief  is  sat- 
isfied ;  others  for  a  week  after  the  death. 

A  remarkable  characteristic  of  the  Prairie  Indian  is  his  habit 
of  speaking,  like  the  deaf  and  dumb,  with  his  fingers.  The  pan- 
tomime is  a  system  of  signs,  some  conventional,  others  instinctive 
or  imitative,  which  enables  tribes  who  have  no  acquaintance  with 
each  other's  customs  and  tongues  to  hold  limited  but  sufl&cient 
communication.  An  interpreter  who  knows  all  the  signs,  which, 
however,  are  so  numerous  and  complicated  that  to  acquire  them 
is  the  labor  of  years,  is  preferred  by  the  whites  even  to  a  good 
speaker.  Some  writers,  as  Captain  H.  Stansbury,  consider  the 
system  purely  arbitrary ;  others.  Captain  Marcy,  for  instance,  hold 
it  to  be  a  natural  language  similar  to  the  gestures  which  surd- 
mutes  use  spontaneously.  Both  views  are  true,  but  not  wholly 
true ;  as  the  following  pages  will,  I  believe,  prove,  the  pantomimic 
vocabulary  is  neither  quite  conventional  nor  the  reverse. 

The  sigu-system  doubtless  arose  from  the  necessity  of  a  com- 
municating medium  between  races  speaking  many  different  dia- 
lects, and  debarred  by  circumstances  from  social  intercourse.  _  Its 
area  is  extensive :  it  prevails  among  many  of  the  Prairie  tribes, 
as  the  ilapsaroke,  or  Crows,  the  Dakotah,  the  Cheyenne,  and  the 
Shoshonee ;  the  Pawnees,  Yutas,  and  Shoshoko,  or  Diggers,  being 
vagrants  and  outcasts,  have  lost  or  never  had  the  habit.  Those 
natives  who,  like  the  Arapahoes,  possess  a  very  scanty  vocabula- 
ry, pronounced  in  a  quasi-unintelligible  way,  can  hardly  converse 
with  one  another  in  the  dark :  to  make  a  stranger  understand 
them  they  must  always  repair  to  the  camp  fire  for  "powwow."  A 
story  is  told  of  a  man  who,  being  sent  among  the  Chcyennes  to 
qualify  himself  for  interpreting,  returned  in  a  week,  and  proved 
his  competence :  all  that  ho  did,  however,  was  to  go  through  the 
usual  pantomime  with  a  running  accompaniment  of  grunts.  I  have 
attempted  to  describe  a  few  of  the  simpler  signs:  the  reader,  how- 
ever, will  readily  perceive  that  without  diagrams  the  explanation 
is  very  imperfect,  and  that  in  half  an  hour,  with  an  Indian  or  an 
interpreter,  he  would  learn'morc  than  by  a  hundred  pages  of  print. 

The  first  lesson  is  to  distinguish  the  signs  of  the  different  tribes, 
and  it  will  be  observed  that  the  French  voyagcurs  and  traders 
have  often  named  the  Indian  nations  from  their  totemic  or  ma- 
sonic gestures.  .  ,     , 

The  Pawnees  (Les  Loups)  imitate  a  wolf's  cars  with  the  two 
forefingers— the  right  hand  is  always  understood  unless  otherwise 
specified*— extended  together,  upright,  on  tlie  left  side  of  the  head. 

The  Arapahoes,  or  Dirty  Noses,  rub  the  right  side  of  that  organ 
*  The  left,  as  a  rule,  denotes  Inversion  or  contradiction. 


I  f  i'j 


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11 

124 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  H. 


with  the  forefinger:  some  call  this  bad  tribe  the  Smellers,  and 
make  their  sign  to  consist  of  seizing  the  nose  with  the  thumb  and 
forefinger. 

The  Comanehes  (Les  Serpents)  imitate,  by  the  waving  of  the 
hand  or  forefinger,  the  forward  crawling  motion  of  a  snake. 

The  Cheyenncs,  Paikanavos,  or  Cut-Wrists,  draw  the  lower  edge 
of  the  hand  across  the  left  arm  as  if  gashing  it  with  a  knife. 

The  Sioux  (Les  Coupe-gorges),  by  drawing  the  lower  edge  of 
the  hand  across  the  throat :  it  is  a  gesture  not  unknown  to  us,  but 
forms  a  truly  ominous  salutation  considering  those  by  whom  it  is 
practiced ;  hence  the  Sioux  are  called  by  the  Yutas  Pampe  Chy- 


imma,  or  Hand-cutters, 


The  Ilapsaroke  (Les  Corbeaux),  by  imitating  the  flapping  of 
the  birds'  wings  with  the  two  hands — palms  downward — brought 
close  to  the  shoulders. 

The  Kiowas,  or  Prairie-men,  make  the  signs  of  the  prairie  and 
of  drinking  water.     These  will  presently  be  described. 

_  The  Yutas,  "  they  who  live  on  mountains,"  have  a  complicated 
sign  which  denotes  "living  in  mountains;"  these  will  be  explain- 
ed under  "  sit"  and  "  mountains." 

^  The  Blackfect,  called  bv  the  Yutas  Paike  or  Goers,  pass  the 
right  band,  bent  spoon-fashion,  from  the  heel  to  the  little  toe  of 
the  right  foot. 

_  The  following  arc  a  few  preliminaries  indispensable  to  the  prai- 
rie Iraveler : 

Halt! — Raise  the  hand,  with  the  palm  in  front,  and  push  it  back- 
ward and  forward  several  times — a  gesture  well  known  in  the  East. 

IcIonHJcnow  you  ! — Move  the  raised  hand,Avith  the  palm  in  front, 
slowly  to  the  right  and  left. 

lam  angry  ! — Close  the  fist,  place  it  against  the  forehead,  and  turn 
it  to  and  fro  in  that  position. 

Are  you  friendly  r — Kaiso  both  hands,  grasped,  as  if  in  the  act  of 
shaking  hands,  or  lock  the  two  forefingers  together  while  the  hands 
are  raised. 

These  signs  will  bo  found  useful  upon  the  prairie  in  case  of 
meeting  a  suspected  band.  The  Indians,  like  the  Bedouin  and 
N.  African  Moslem,  do  honor  to  strangers  and  guests  by  putting 
their  horses  to  speed,  couching  their  lantes,  and  other  peculiarities 
which  would  readily  bo  dispensed  with  by  gentlemen  of  peaceful 
pursuits  and  shaky  nerves.  If  friendly,  the  band  will  halt  when 
the  hint  is  given  and  return  the  salute :  if  surly,  they  will  disre- 
gard the  cnnmand  to  stop,  and  probably  will  make" the  sign  of 
anger.    Then — ware  scalp  I 

Co»?e .'— Bl'ckon  with  the  forefinger,  as  in  Europe,  not  as  is  done 
in  the  East. 

Come  irtoX.7— Beckon  in  the  European  way,  and  draw  the  fore- 
finger toward  yourself. 


Chap.  II. 


THE  INDIAN  PANTOMIME. 


125 


Go! — MovG  both  hands  edgeways  (the  palms  fronting  the  breast) 
toward  the  left  witli  a  rocking-horse  motion. 

Sit ! — Make  a  motion  toward  the  ground,  as  if  to  pound  it  -with 
the  ferient  of  the  closed  hand. 

Lie  down! — Point  to  the  ground,  and  make  a  motion  as  if  of  lying 
down. 

Sleep  ! — ^Ditto,  closing  the  eyes. 

Look! — ^Touch  the  right  eye  Avith  the  index  and  point  it  outward. 

Hear  ! — ^Tap  the  right  ear' with  the  index  tip. 

Colors  are  expressed  by  a  comparison  witli  some  object  in  sigbt. 
Many  things,  as  the  blowing  of  wind,  the  cries  of  beasts  and  birds, 
and  the  roaring  of  the  sea,  are  imitated  by  sound. 

See  ! — Strike  out  the  two  forefingers  forward  from  the  eyes. 

Smell!— ^oncYi  the  nose-tip.  A  bad  smell  is  expressed  by  the 
same  sign,  ejaculating  at  the  same  time  "Pooh!"  and  making  the 
sign  of  bad. 

Taste  ! — ^Touch  the  tongue-tip. 

JEat! — ^Imitate  the  action  of  conveying  food  with  the  fingers  to  the 
mouth. 

Drinh! — Scoop  up  with  the  hand  imaginary  water  into  the  mouth. 

Smoke  ! — "With  the  crooked  index  describe  a  pipe  in  the  air,  be- 
ginning at  the  lips ;  then  wave  the  open  hand  from  the  mouth  to  im- 
itate curls  of  smoke. 

Speak! — Extend  the  open  hand  from  the  chin. 

Fight! — Make  a  motion  with  both  fists  to  and  fro,  like  a  pugilist 
of  the  eighteenth  century  who  preferred  a  high  guard. 

Kill! — Smite  the  sinister  palm  earthward  with  the  dexter  fist 
sharply,  in  sign  of  "going  down;"  or  strike  out  with  the  dexter  fist 
toward  the  ground,  meaning  to  "  shut  down ;"  or  pass  the  dexter  in- 
dex under  the  left  forefinger,  meaning  to  "  go  under." 

To  show  that  fighting  is  actually  taking  place,  make  the  gestures 
as  above  described ;  tap  the  lips  with  the  palm  like  an  Oriental 
woman  when  "keening,"  screaming  the  while  0-al  0-a!  to  imi- 
tate the  war-song. 

Wash! — Rub  the  hand  as  with  invisible  soap  in  imperceptible  wa- 
ter. 

TJiink  ! — Pass  the  forefinger  sharply  across  the  breast  from  right 
to  left. 

Hide! — Place  the  hand  inside  the  clothing  of  the  left  breast.  This 
means  also  to  put  away  or  to  keep  secret.  To  express  "I  won't  say," 
make  the  signs  of  "P'  and  "no"  (which  see),  and  hide  the  hand  as 
above  directed. 

Love  ! — Fold  the  hands  crosswise  over  the  breast,  as  if  embracing 
the  object,  assuming  at  the  same  time  a  look  expressing  the  desire 
to  carry  out  the  operation.  Tliis  gesture  will  be  understood  by  the 
dullest  squaw. 

Tell  truth! — Extend  the  forefinger  from  the  mouth  ("one  word"). 

Tell  lie! — Extend  the  two  first  fingers  from  the  mouth  ("double 
tongue,"  a  significant  gesture). 


•  i 


w 


\Ui 


ILlli 


126 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


Steal! — Seize  an  imaginary  object  with  the  right  hand  from  under 
the  left  fist.  To  express  horse-stealing  they  saw  with  the  right  hand 
dowii  upon  the  extended  fingers  of  the  left,  thereby  denoting  rope- 


cutting 


Trade  or  exchange  ! — Cross  the  forefingers  of  both  hands  before 
the  breast — "  diamond  cut  diamond." 

This  sign  also  denotes  the  Americans,  and,  indeed,  any  white 
men,  who  are  generically  called  by  the  Indians  west  of  the  Eocky 
Mountains  "  Ghwop,"  from  our  swap  or  swop,  an  English  Eomany 
word  for  barter  or  exchange. 

The  pronouns  are  expressed  by  pointing  to  the  person  desig- 
nated. For  "I,"  touch  the  nose-tip,  or  otherwise  indicate  self 
with  the  index.  The  second  and  third  persons  arc  similarly  made 
known. 

Every  animal  has  its  precise  sign,  and  the  choice  of  gesture  is 
sometimes  very  ingenious.  If  the  symbol  be  not  known,  the  form 
may  be  drawn  on  the  ground,  and  the  strong  perceptive  faculties 
of  the  savage  enable  him  easily  to  recognize  even  rough  draughts. 
A  cow  or  a  sheep  denotes  white  men,  as  if  they  were  their  totems.* 
The  Indian's  high  development  of  locality  also  enables  him  to 
map  the  features  of  a  country  readily  and  correctly  upon  the  sand. 
Moreover,  almost  every  grand  feature  has  a  highfy  significant 
name,  Flintwater,  for  instance,  and  nothing  is  easier  than  to  com- 
bine the  signs. 

The  hear  is  expressed  by  passing  the  hand  before  the  face  to 
mean  ugliness,  at  the  same  time  grinning  and  extending  the  fin- 
gers like  claws. 

The  huffalo  is  known  by  raising  the  forefingers  crooked  inward, 
in  the  semblance  of  horns  on  both  sides  of  the  head. 

The  elk  is  signified  by  simultaneously  raising  both  hands  with 
the  fingers  extended  on  both  sides  of  the  head  to  imitate  palmated 
horns. 

For  the  deer,  extend  the  thumbs  and  the  two  forefingers  of  each 
hand  on  each  side  of  the  head. 

For  the  antelope,  extend  the  thumbs  and  forefingers  along  the 
sides  of  the  head,  to  simulate  ears  and  horns. 

Mountain  sheep  are  denoted  by  placing  the  hands  on  a  level  with 
the  ears,  the  palms  facing  backward  and  the  fingers  slightly  re- 
versed, to  imitate  the  ammonite-shaped  horns. 

For  the  heaver,  describe  a  parenthesis,  e.  g.  ( ),  with  the  thumb  and 
index  of  both  bands,  and  then  with  the  dexter  index  imitate  the 
wagging  of  the  tail. 

The  dog  is  shown  by  drawing  the  two  forefingers  slightly  open- 
ed horizontally  across  the  breast  from  right  to  left.  This  is  a 
highly  appropriate  and  traditional  gesture :  before  the  introduc- 
tion of  horses,  the  dog  was  taught  to  carry  the  tent  poles,  and  the 
motion  expressed  the  lodge  trail. 

To  denote  tlic  mule  or  ass,  the  long  cars  are  imitated  by  the  in- 
dices on  both  sides  and  above  the  head. 


Chap.  II. 


THE  INDIAN  PANTOMIME. 


127 


For  the  crow,  and,  indeed,  any  bird,  the  hands  are  flapped  near 
the  shoulders.  If  specilication  be  required^  the  cry  is  imitated  or 
some  peculiarity  is  mtroduced.  The  following  will  show  the  in- 
genuity with  which  the  Indian  can  convey  his  meaningumder  dif- 
ficulties. A  Yuta  wishing  to  explain  that  the  torpedo  or  gymno- 
tus  eel  is  found  in  Cotton-wood  Kanyon  Lake,  took  to  it  thus :  he 
made  the  body,  by  extending  his  sinister  index  to  the  fore,  touch- 
ed it  with  the  dexter  index  at  two  points  on  both  sides  to  show 
legs,  and  finally  sharply  withdrew  his  right  forefinger  to  convey 
the  idea  of  an  electric  shock. 

Some  of  the  symbols  of  relationship  are  highly  appropriate,  and 
not  ungraceful  or  unpicturesque.  Man  is  denoted  by  a  sign  which 
will  not  admit  of  description ;  woman,  by  passing  the  hand  down 
both  sides  of  the  head  as  if  smoothing  or  stroking  the  long  hair. 
A  son  or  daughter  is  expressed  by  making  with  the  hand  a  move- 
ment denoting  issue  from  the  loins :  if  the  child  be  small,  a  bit 
of  the  index  held  between  the  ai-tagonized  thumb  and  medius  is 
shown.  The  same  sign  of  issue  expresses  both  parents,  with  addi- 
tional explanations :  To  say,  for  instance,  "my  mother,^^  you  would 
first  pantomime  "/,"  or,  which  is  the  same  thing, "???,?/;"  then  "wom- 


an 


and,  finally,  the  symbol  of  parentage,  "ify  grandmother'^ 
would  be  conveyed  in  the  same  way,  adding  to  the  end  clasped 
hands,  closed  eyes,  and  like  an  old  woman's  bent  back.  The  sign 
for  brother  and  sister  is  perhaps  the  prettiest :  the  two  first  finger- 
tips are  put  into  the  mouth,  denoting  that  they  fed  from  the  same 
breast.  For  the  wife — squaw  is  now  becoming  a  word  of  reproach 
among  the  Indians — the  dexter  forefinger  is  passed  between  the 
extended  thumb  and  index  of  the  left. 

Of  course  there  is  a  sign  for  every  weapon.  The  knife — scalp 
or  other — is  shown  by  cutting  the  sinister  palm  with  the  dexter 
ferient  downward  and  toward  one's  self:  if  the  cuts  be  made  up- 
ward with  the  palm  downward,  meat  is  understood.  The  toma- 
hawk, hatchet,  or  axe  is  denoted  by  chopping  the  left  hand  with 
the  right ;  the  sword  by  the  motion  of  drawing  it ;  the  hoiv  by  the 
movement  of  bending  it ;  and  a  sj^car  or  lance  by  an  imitation  of 
darting  it.  For  the  gun,  the  dexter  thumb  and  fingers  are  flashed 
or  scattered,  i.  c,  thrown  outw^ard  or  upward  to  denote  fire.  The 
same  movement  made  lower  down  expresses  a  pwto?.  The  arroio 
is  expressed  by  nocking  it  upon  an  imaginary  bow,  and  by  "  snap- 
ping'_  with  the  index  and  medius.  The  shield  is  shown  by  point- 
mg  with  the  index  over  the  left  shoulder,  where  it  is  slung  ready 
to  be  brought  over  the  breast  when  required. 

The  following  are  the  most  useful  words : 

Yes. — Wave  the  hands  straight  forward  from  the  face. 

■No. — Wave  the  hand  from  right  to  left,  as  if  motioning  away.  This 
sign  also  means  "I'll  have  nothing  to  do  with  you."  Done  slowly 
and  insinuatincly,  it  informs  a  woman  that  she  is  charmante — "not 
to  be  touclicd"  buing  tlie  idea. 


tt        «. 


IJ,' 


•i 


'!  \ 


128 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


Good. — Wave  the  hand  from  the  mouth,  extending  the  thumb  from 
the  index  and  closing  the  other  three  fingers.  This  sign  means  also 
" I  know."  'I  don't  know"  is  expressed  by  waving  the  right  hand 
with  the  ^m  outward  before  the  right  breast,  or  by  moving  about 
the  two  forefingers  before  the  breast,  meaning  "  two  hearts." 

Bad. — Scatter  the  dexter  fingers  outward,  as  if  spirting  away  wa- 
ter from  them. 

Now  {at  once). — Clap  both  palms  together  sharp!/  and  repeatedly, 
or  make  the  sign  of"  to-day." 

Day. — ^IVIake  a  circle  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  both,  in  sign 
ot  the  sun.  Tlie  hour  is  pointed  out  by  showing  the  luminary's  place 
in  the  hejvens.  The  moon  is  expressed  by  a  crescent  with  the  thumb 
and  forefinger :  this  also  denotes  a  month.  For  a  year  give  the  sign 
of  rain  or  snow. 

Many  Indians  ignore  the  quadripartite  division  of  the  seasons, 
which  seems  to  be  an  invention  of  European  latitudes ;  the  Per- 
sians, for  instance,  know  it,  but  the  Ilindoos  do  not.  They  have, 
however,  distinct  terms  for  the  month,  all  of  which  are  pretty 
and  descriptive,  appropriate  and  poetical;  e.g.^  the  moon  of  light 
nights,  the  moon  of  leaves,  the  moon  of  strawberries,  for  April 
May,  and  June.  The  Ojibwa  have  a  queer  quaternal  division , 
called  Of  sap,  Of  abundance,  Of  fading,  and  Of  freezing.  The  Da- 
kotah  reckon  five  moons  to  winter  and  five  to  summer,  leaving 
one  to  spring  and  one  to  autumn ;  the  year  is  lunar,  and  as  the 
change  of  season  is  denoted  by  the  appearance  of  sore  eyes  and 
of  raccoons,  any  irregularity  throws  the  people  out. 

Night. — IVIake  a  closing  movement  as  if  of  the  darkness  by  bring- 
ing together  both  hands  with  the  dorsa  upward  and  the  fingers  to 
the  fore ;  the  motion  is  from  right  to  left,  and  at  the  end  the  two  in- 
dices are  alongside  and  close  to  each  other.  This  movement  must 
bo  accompanied  by  bending  forward  with  bowed  head,  otherwise  it 
may  be  misunderstood  for  the  freezing  over  of  a  Like  or  river. 

To-day. — Touch  the  nose  with  the  "index  tip,  and  motion  with  the 
fist  toward  the  ground. 

Yesterday.— hloM.Q  witli  tlio  loft  hand  the  circle  Avhich  the  sun  de- 
scribes from  sunrise  to  sunset,  or  invert  tlio  direction  from  sunset  to 
Bunriso  with  the  right  hand. 

7b-mt)m«p.— Describe  the  motion  of  the  sun  from  east  to  west. 
Any  number  of  days  may  bo  counted  upon  the  fingers.  The  latter, 
I  need  hardly  say,  are  the  only  numerals  m  the  pantomimic  vocabu- 
lary. 

Among  the  Dakotahs,  when  tlioy  have  gone  over  the  fingers 
and  thumbs  of  both  hand.s,  one  is  temporarily  turned  down' for 
one  ten ;  at  the  end  of  another  ten  a  second  finger  i.s  turned  down, 
and  so  (»ii,  as  among  children  who  are  learning  to  count.  "Opa- 
winge,"  one  hundred,  is  derived  from  "pawinga,"  to  go  round  in 
circles,  ns  the  fingers  have  all  hccn  gone  over  again  for  their  re- 
spective tons;  " kekU)pawingo"  is  from  "ake"  and  "opawingc"— 
"  hundred  again"— being  about  to  recommence  the  circle  of  their 


us;  an  arroj 


Chap.  IL 


THE  INDIAN  PANTOMIME. 


129 


fingers  already  completed  in  hundreds.  For  numerals  above  a 
thousand  there  is  no  method  of  computing.  There  is  a  sign  and 
word  for  one  half  of  a  thing,  but  none  to  denote  any  smaller  ali- 
quot part. 

Peace.— Intertwine  the  fingprs  of  both  hands. 

Miendship.—Clasn  the  left  with  the  right  hand. 

Glad  {pleased):~Wave  the  open  hand  outward  from  the  breast, 
to  express  "  good  heart." 

A  Cup.-— Imitate  its  form  with  both  hands,  and  make  the  sign  of 
drinking  from  it.  In  this  way  any  utensil  can  be  intelligibly  de- 
scribed— of  course,  provided  that  the  interlocutor  has  seen  it. 

Pa^n^.— Daub  both  the  cheeks  downward  with  the  index. 

■Looking- ff lass. —Place  both  palms  before  the  face,  and  admire  your 
countenance  in  them. 

^eaf?.— Point  to  a  bead,  or  make  the  sign  of  a  necklace. 

|jj,.e     Show  it,  or  where  it  ought  to  bo,  in  the  car-lobe. 

IVhtaki/.— Make  the  sign  of  "bad"  and  "drink"  for  "bad  water." 
Blanket  or  Clothes.— Put  them  on  in  pantomime. 
A  Lodge.— Place  the  fingers  of  both  hands  ridge-fashion  before  the 
breast. 

i^>-e.— Blow  it,  and  warm  the  hands  before  it.  To  express  the 
boiling  of  a  kettle,  the  sign  of  fire  is  made  loyr  down,  and  an  imagin- 
ary pot  is  eaten  from. 

It  is  cold. — Wrap  up,  shudder,  and  look  disagreeable. 

Jiain. — Scatter  the  fingers  downward.  The  eame  sign  denotes 
snow. 

TF/7?r?.— Stretch  the  fingers  of  both  hands  outward,  pufiino-  vio- 
lently the  while.  ° 

A  Storm.— Make  the  rain  sign ;  then,  if  thunder  and  lightning  are 
to  bo  expressed,  move,  as  if  hi  anger,  the  body  to  and  fro,  to  show 
the  wrath  of  the  elements. 

A  Stone.— Klightyact  as  if  picking  it  up;  if  heavy,  as  if  dropping  it. 

A  Hill.— Clone  the  finger-tips  over  the  head:  if  a  mountain  is  to 
be  expressed,  raise  them  high.  To  denote  an  ascent  on  rising  ground, 
pass  the  right  nalm  over  the  left  hand,  half  doubling  up  the  latter,  so 
that  it  looks  like  a  ridge. 

A  Plain, — Wave  both  the  palms  outward  and  low  down. 

vl  JRiver.— Make  the  sign  of  drinking,  and  then  wave  both  the 
palms  outward.  A  rivulet,  crook,  or  stream  is  shown  by  the  drink- 
ing sign,  and  by  holding  the  index  tip  between  the  thumb  and  medi- 
us;  an  arroyo  (dry  water-course),  by  covering  up  the  tip  with  the 
thumb  and  middle  finger. 

A  Lake.— Make  the  sign  of  drinking,  and  form  a  basin  witli  both 
hands.  If  a  large  body  of  M-ater  is  in  question,  wave  both  palms  out- 
ward as  in  denoting  a  i)lain.  The  Prairie  savages  have  never  seen 
the  son,  so  it  would  bo  vain  to  attcmnt  explanation. 

.1  IhtoL— Place  the  right  palm  on  the  left  palm,  and  then  open 
both  bol'oro  the  face. 

A  Letter.— Write  witli  the  tlnmib  and  dexter  index  on  Iho  sinister 
palm. 

A  Wagon. — Roll  hand  over  hand,  imitating  a  wheel. 


>    '     if 


.1 


I- 


-^tM 


'M 


180 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  II. 


A  Wagon-road. — Make  the  wagon  sign,  and  then  wave  the  hand 
along  the  ground. 

Grass. — Point  to  the  ground  with  the  index,  and  then  turn  the 
fingers  upward  to  denote  growth.  If  the  grass  be  long,  raise  the 
hand  high ;  and  if  yellow,  point  out  that  color. 

The  pantomime,  as  may  be  seen,  is  capable  of  expressing  detail- 
ed narratives.  For  instance,  supposing  an  Indian  would  tell  the 
following  tale — "Early  this  morning  I  mounted  my  horse,  rode  off 
at  a  gallop,  traversed  a  kanyon  or  ravine,  then  over  a  mountain 
to  a  plain  where  there  was  no  water,  sighted  bison,  followed  them, 
killed  three  of  them,  skinned  them,  packed  the  flesh  upon  my  pony, 
remounted,  and  returned  home" — lie  would  symbolize  it  thus: 

Touches  nose — "Z" 

Opens  out  the  palms  of  his  hand — "  this  mortiing." 

Points  to  cast — "  early." 

Places  two  dexter  forefingers  astraddle  over  sinister  index — 
"  mounted  my  horse." 

Moves  both  hands  upward  and  rocking-horse  fashion  toward  the 
Icii—"- galloped." 

Passes  the  dexter  hand  right  through  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the 
sinister, whicli  are  widely  extended — '■'■  traversed akanyoii." 

Closes  the  finger-tips  high  over  the  head,  and  waves  both  palms 
outward — "oi'cr  a  motintam  to  ajylam." 

Scoops  up  with  the  hand  imaginary  water  into  the  mouth,  and  then 
waves  the  hand  from  the  face  to  denote  "  no" — "  trhere  there  teas  no 
water." 

Touches  eye — "  sighted" 

Raises  the  forefingers  crooked  inward  on  both  sides  of  the  head — 
''bison." 

Smites  the  sinister  palm  downward  Avith  the  dexter  fist — "■killed." 

Shows  three  fingers — "  three  of  them." 

Scrapes  the  lotl  pahu  Avith  the  edge  of  the  right  hand — ''skinned 
them." 

I'laccs  the  dexter  on  the  sinister  ])alni,  and  then  the  dextcv  palm 
on  the  sinister  dorsum — "jmeked  thejfesh  vpon  my  pony." 

Straddles  the  two  forefingers  on  tlic  index  of  the  left — "remount- 
ed;" and,  finally, 

Beckons  toward  Bclf— "  returned  home." 

To  conclude,  I  can  hardly  flatter  mv.self  that  those  descriptions 
have  been  made  (piitc  intelligible  to  the  reader.  They  may,  how- 
ever, serve  to  prepare  his  mind  for  a  vird  voce  lesson  upon  the 
prairies,  should  fate  have  such  thing  in  store  for  him. 

After  this  digression  I  return  to  my  prosaic  Diary. 


in 


Chap.  III. 


SUNKISE. 


131 


CHAPTER  III. 

Concluding  the  Route  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Along  the  Black  Hills  to  Box-Elder.     lUlh  August. 

I  AROSE  "between  two  days,"  a  little  before  4  A.M.,  and  watch- 
ed the  dawn,  and  found  in  its  beauties  a  soothing  influence,  which 
acted  upon  stiff  limbs  and  discontented  spirit  as  if  it  had  been  a 
spell. 

The  stars  of  the  Great  Bear— the  prairie  night-clock— first  be- 
gan to  pale  without  any  seeming  cause,  till  presently  a  faint  streak 
of  pale  light— rfuHi  i  gurg,  or  the  wolf's  tail,  as  it  is  called  by  the 
Persian — began  to  shimmer  upon  the  eastern  verge  of  heaven. 
It  grew  and  grew  through  the  dark  blue  air :  one  unaccustomed 
to  the  study  of  the  "gray-eyed  morn"  would  have  expected  it  to 
usher  in  the  day,  when,  gradually  as  it  had  struggled  into  exist- 
ence, it  faded,  and  a  deeper  darkness  than  before  once  more  in- 
vaded the  iniinitudo  above.  But  now  the  unrisen  sun  is  more 
rapidly  climbing  the  gloomy  walls  of  Koh  i  Kaf— the  mountain 
rim  which  encircles  the  world,  and  through  whose  lower  gap  the 
I'ulse  dawn  had  found  its  way — preceded  by  a  warm  flush  of 
light,  which  chases  t1\e  shades  till,  though  loth  to  depart,  they  find 
neither  on  earth  nor  in  the  firmament  a  place  where  they  can  lin- 
ger. Warmer  and  warmer  waxes  the  heavenly  radiance,  gliding 
up  to  the  keystone  of  the  vault  above;  fainter  and  fainter  grows 
the  darkncF^,  till  the  last  stain  disappears  behind  the  Black  Hills 
»0  the  west,  and  the  stars  one  by  one,  like  glow-worms,  "pale  their 
ineffectual  lircs" — the  "Pointers"  are  the  longest  to  resist— retreat 
backward,  as  it  were,  and  fade  away  into  endless  space.  Slowly, 
almost  imperceptibly,  the  marvelous  hues  of  "glorious  morn," 
here  truly  a  fresh  "birth  of  heaven  and  earth,"  all  gold  and  sap- 
phire, aenuire  depth  and  distinctness,  till  at  last  a  fiery  flush  ush- 
ers from  beneath  the  horizon  the  source  of  all  these  splendors, 

,  "  Robed  in  flninca  and  nmhcr  light ;" 

and  another  day,  with  its  little  life  of  joys  and  sorrows,  of  hopes 
nnd  fears,  is  born  to  the  world. 

Though  wo  all  rose  up  early,  packed,  and  were  ready  to  pro- 
ceed, there  was  an  unusual  vis  iiwrlid-  on  the  part  of  the  driver: 
Indians  were  about ;  the  mules,  of  course,  had  bolted ;  but  that 
did  not  sufiico  aa  explanation.  Presently  the  "wonder  leaked 
out:"  our  companions  were  transferred  from  their  comfortable 
vehicle  to  a  real  "sluindridan,"  a  Ilocky-Mountain  bone-setter. 
They  were  civil  enough  to  tho  exceedingly  drunken  youth — a 
runaway  New  Yorker — who  did  us  the  honor  of  driving  us ;  for 


t  s     '1 


jl 


1  I     ■  il 

\  i    *  J 


132 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


qua7id  on  a  besoin  du  diaUe  on  lid  dit,  ''Monsieur."  One  can  not 
•expect,  however,  the  diahle  to  be  equally  civil:  when  we  asked 
him  to  tidy  our  vehicle  a  little,  he  simply  replied  that  he  d  be, 
darned  if  he  did.  Long  may  be  the  darning-needle  and  sharp  to 
him !  But  tempers  seriously  soured  must  blow  up  or  burst,  and 
a  very  pretty  little  quarrel  was  the  result:  it  was  settled  blood- 
lessly,  because  one  gentleman,  who,  to  do  him  justice,  showed  every 
disposition  to  convert  himself  into  a  target,  displayed  such  perfect 
unacquaintance  with  the  weapons— revolvers— usually  used  on 
similar  occasions,  that  it  would  have  been  mere  murder  to  have 
taken  pistol  in  hand  against  him.  ,     ^      t  j- 

As  we  sat  very  disconsolate  in  the  open  veranda,  five  Indians 
stalked  in,  and  the  biggest  and  burliest  of  the  part}^  a  middle-aged 
man,  with  the  long,  straight  Indian  hair,  high,  harsh  features,  and 
flicc  bald  of  eyebrows  and  beard,  after  offering  his  paw  to  Mrs. 
Dana  and  the  rest  of  the  party,  sat  down  with  a  manner  of  natural 
dignity  somewhat  trenching  upon  the  impertinent.  Prcsentlv, 
diving  his  hand  into  his  breast,  the  old  rat  pulled  out  a  thick  fold 
of  leather,  and,  after  much  manipulation,  disclosed  a  dirty  brown, 
ragged-edged  sheet  of  paper,  certifying  him  to  be  "  Little  Thun- 
der," and  signed  by  "  General  Ilarnev."  This,  then,  was  the  chief 
who  showed  the  w'hitc  feather  at  Ash  Hollow,  and  of  whom  some 
military  poet  sang : 

"Wo  diiln't  mnkc  a  blnnder, 
Wo  rubbed  out  Li'Me  Thunder, 
And  we  sent  him  to  tho  otlier  Kide  of  Jordan." 

Little  Thunder  did  not  look  quite  rubbed  out;  but  for  poesy  fic- 
tion is,  of  course,  an  element  far  more  appropriate  than  fiict.  I 
remember  a  similar  cfTusion  of  the  Anglo-Indian  muse,  which  con- 
signed" Akbar  Khan  the  Yaghi"  to  the  tune  and  fate  of  the  King 
of  the  Cannibal  Isles,  with  a  contempt  of  actualities  quite  as  re- 
freshing. The  Western  Indians  are  as  fond  of  these  testimonials 
as  tho  East  Indians:  they  preserve  them  with  care  as  guarantees 
of  their  good  conduct,  and  sometimes,  as  may  be  cxpeeicd,  carrv 
about  certificates  in  tlic  stylo  of  IJcllerophons'  letters.  Little 
Thunder  was  m  route  to  Fort  Laramie,  where  he  intended  to  lav 
a  complaint  against  the  Indian  agent,  who  embezzled,  ho  said, 
half  tho  rations  and  presents  intended  for  his  tribe.  Kvon  the 
whites  owned  that  the  "  Maje's"  bear  got  more  sugar  than  all  tbo 
Indians  put  together. 

Nothing  can  be  worse,  if  the  vox  pnpuU  orridniiah's  be  taken  as 
tho  vox  7A'/,  tiian  tho  modern  management  of  the  Indian  Bureau 
at  Washington.  In  former  times  tho  agencies  were  in  tlio  hands 
of  the  military  authorities,  and  the  oflieer  commanding  the  dejiart- 
ment  was  responsible  for  nmlversatiou  of  ofiice.  This  was  fouiid 
to  work  well ;  tlic  papers  signed  were  signed  on  honor.  But  in 
the  United  States,  the  federal  army,  thougli  well  paid,  is  never  al- 
lowed to  keep  any  apj)ointmcnt  that  can  safely  bo  taken  away 


Chap.  UI. 


THE  INDIAN  DEPARTiMENT. 


188 


from  it.  The  Indian  Department  is  now  divided  into  six  super- 
intendencies,  viz.,  Northern,  Central,  Southern,  Utah,  New  Mexi- 
co, Washington  and  Oregon  Territories,  who  report  to  the  Indian 
Office  or  Bureau  of  the  Commissioners  of  Indian  Affairs  at  Wash- 
ington, under  the  charge  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior.  The 
bond  varies  from  $50,000  to  $75,000,  and  the  salary  from  $2000 
to  $2500  j)er  annum.  The  northern  superintendency  contains 
four  agencies,  the  central  fourteen,  the  southern  five,  the  Utah 
three.  New  Mexico  six,  and  the  miscellaneous,  including  Wash- 
ington, eight.  The  grand  total  of  agents,  including  two  specials 
for  Indians  in  Texas,  is  forty-two.  Their  bond  is  between  $5000 
and  $75,000,  and  the  salary  between  $1000  and  $1550.  There 
are  also  various  sub-agencies,  with  pay  of  $1000  each,  and  giving 
in  bonds  $2000.  There  ought  to  be  no  perquisites ;  an  unscru- 
pulous man,  however,  finds  many  opportunities  of  making  free 
with  the  presents ;  and  the  reflection  that  his  office  tenure  shall 
expire  after  the  fourth  year  must  make  him  but  the  more  reck- 
less. As  fifty  or  sixty  appointments  =  50  or  60  votes,  x  20  in 
President  electioneering,  fitness  for  the  task  often  becomes  quite 
a  subordinate  consideration ;  the  result  is,  necessarily,  peculation 
producing  discontent  among  the  Indians,  and  the  finale,  death  to 
the  whites.  To  become  a  good  Indian  agent,  a  man  requires  the 
varietvof  qualifications  which  would  fit  him  for  the  guardifvnship 
of  children,  experience  and  ability,  benevolence  and  philanthropy : 
it  would  be  difficult  to  secure  such  phoenix  for  $200  per  annum, 
and  it  is  found  easier  not  to  look  for  it.  The  remedy  of  these 
evils  is  not  far  from  the  surface — the  restoration  of  the  office  into 
the  hands  of  the  responsible  military  servant  of  the  state,  who 
would  keep  it  quamdiu  sc  baiH  gcsserit,  and  become  better  capable 
of  serving  his  masters,  the  American  people,  by  tlie  importance 
which  the  office  would  give  him  in  the  eyes  of  his  pi'oU'ges.  This 
is  the  system  of  the  French  Bureau  Arabc,  which,  with  its  fiiults, 
I  love  still.  But  the  political  mind  would  doubtless  determine 
the  cure  to  bo  worse  than  the  disease.  After  venting  his  griev- 
ances, Little  Thunder  arose,  and,  accompanied  by  his  braves,  re- 
mounted and  rode  oft'  toward  the  cast. 

While  dohiyod  by  the  mules  and  their  masters,  wo  may  amuse 
ourselves  and  divert  our  thoughts  from  the  battle,  and,  perhaps, 
murder  and  sudden  death,  wliich  may  hanpcn  this  ovcninc-,  by 
studying  tlic  geography  of  the  Blacli  Ilills.  The  range  forms 
nearly  a  right  angle,  tbo  larger  limb — ninety  miles — running  cast 
to  west  witli  a  little  southing  along  tlie  Platte,  the  sliorter  leg — 
sixty  miles— trending  from  north  to  soutli  witli  a  few  degrees  of 
ca.stnig  and  westing.  Forming  the  easternmost  jiart  of  the  great 
trans- Missisaipnian  mountain  region,  in  the  4-lth  paralU;!  and  be- 
tween the  l03a  nnd  lOolli  meridians,  those  masses  cover  an  area 
of  0000  scjuare  miles.  They  are  supposed  to  have  received  their 
lust  violent  uphetival  at  the  close  ot  the  cretaceous  period;  their 


i 


•mrmfmm 


134 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  Ill, 


bases  are  elevated  from  2500  to  8500  feet— the  highest  peaks  at- 
taining 6700  feet— above  river  level,  while  their  eastern  is  from 
2000  to  8000  feet  below  the  western  foundation.  Their  materials, 
as  determined  by  Lieutenant  Warren's  explora,tion,  are  success- 
ively metamorphosed  azoic  rock,  including  granite,  lower  Silurian 
(Potsdam  sandstone),  Devonian  (?),  carboniferous,  Permian,  Juras- 
sic, and  cretaceous.  Like  Ida,  they  are  abundant  in  springs  and 
flowing  streams,  which  shed  mainly  to  the  northeast  and  the' 
southeast,  supplying  the  Indians  with  trout  and  salmon  trout,  cat- 
fish (PrinelodusX  and  pickerel.  They  abound  in  small  rich  val- 
leys, well  grown  with  grass,  and  wild  fruits,  choke-cherries  {P.  Vir- 
niniana),  currants,  sand-buttes  fruit  (C.jnnmla?),  and  buffalo  ber- 
ries {Shq>herdia  argcntea,  or  grains  de  bocuf).  When  irrigated, 
the  bottoms  are  capable  of  high  cultivation.  They  excel  m  fine 
timber  for  fuel  and  lumber,  covering  an  area  of  1500  square  miles ; 
in  carboniferous  rock  cf  the  true  coal  measures ;  and  in  other  good 
building  material.  As  in  most  of  the  hill  ranges  which  are  ofl- 
sets  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  they  contain  gold  in  valuable 
quantities,  and  doubtless  a  minute  examination  will  lead  to  the 
discovery  of  many  other  useful  minerals.  The  Black  Hills  are 
appropriately  named :  a  cloak  of  gloomy  forest,  pine  and  juni- 
per, apparently  springing  from  a  rock  denuded  of  less  hardy  veg- 
etation, seems  to  invest  them  from  head  to  foot.  The  Laramie 
Hills  are  sub-ranges  of  the  higher  ridge,  and  the  well-known  peak, 
the  Pharos  of  the  prairie  mariner,  rises  about  1°  due  west  of  Fort 
Laramie  to  the  height  of  G500  feet  above  sea  level.  Beyond  the 
meridian  of  Laramie  the  country  totally  changes.  The  broad 
jrairic  lands,  unencumbered  by  timber,  and  covered  with  a  rich 
lasturago,  which  highly  adapts  them  for  grazing,  arc  now  left  be- 
lind.  We  are  about  to  enter  a  dry,  sandy,  and  sterile  waste  of 
sage,  and  presently  of  salt,  where  rare  spots  are  fitted  for  rearing 
stock,  and  this  formation  will  continue  till  we  reach  the  shadow 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

At  length,  the  mules  coming  about  10  45  A.^f.,  we  hitched  up, 
and,  nothing  loth,  bade  adieu  to  Horseshoe  Creek  and  the  "la- 
dies." The  driver  sentimentally  informed  us  that  we  were  to  see 
no  more  specimens  of  ladyhood  for  many  days— gladdest  tidings 
to  one  of  the  party,  at  lea.st.  The  road,  which  ran  out  of  sight  of 
the  river,  was  broken  and  jagged ;  a  little  labor  would  have  made 
it  tolerable,  but  what  could  the  good  pastor  of  Oberlin  do  with  a 
folk  whbse  only  thought  in  life  is  dram-drinking,  tobacco-chew- 
ing, trading,  and  swapping?*    The  country  was  cut  with  creeks 

•  Tlio  rivilizpil  AtiKlo-Amcrionns  nro  far  mnro  scAoro  upon  their  hnlf-barbnroiis 
Lrcihrcii  than  niiy  BtrnnpT  ;  to  witiiohs,  tin-  following  : 

A  Ilooflier  (iiniivc  (if  Indinnn)  was  called  n|Mm  the  stand,  away  out  West,  to  tc.-- 
tify  to  tlip  rharnctcr  of  a  lirollier  llonsicr.     It  was  aa  follows  i 

"  How  long  have  you  known  Hill  Bushwhack?" 

"  KviT  since  he  war  born." 

•'  WImt  is  bin  general  tlmractcr?"  • 


Chap.  III. 


LA  BONTfi.— THE  RED  REGION. 


185 


and  arroyos,  which  separated  the  several  bulges  of  ground,  and 
the  earth's  surface  was  of  a  dull  brick-dust  red,  thinly  scrubbed 
over  with  coarse  grass,  ragged  sage,  and  shrublets  lit  only  for  the 
fire.  After  a  desolate  drive,  we  sighted  below  us  the  creek  La 
Bontd — so  called  from  a  French  voyageur — green  and  bisected  by 
a  clear  mountain  stream  whose  banks  were  thick  with  self-plant- 
ed trees.  In  the  labyrinth  of  paths  we  chose  the  wrong  one : 
presently  we  came  to  a  sheer  descent  of  four  or  five  feet,  and  aft- 
er deliberation  as  to  whether  the  vehicle  would  "  take  it"  or  not, 
we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  we  had  better  turn  the  restive 
mules  to  the  right-about.  Then,  cheered  by  the  sight  of  our  con- 
sort, the  other  wagon,  which  stood  temptingly  shaded  by  the  grove 
of  cotton-wood,  willows,  box  elder  {Negundo  aceroides),  and  wild 
cherry,  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile,  we  sought  manfully 
the  right  track,  and  the  way  in  which  the  driver  charged  the  mi- 
nor obstacles  was  "a  caution  to  mules."  "We  ought  to  have  ar- 
rived at  2  45  P.M. ;  we  were  about  an  hour  later.  The  station 
had  yet  to  bo  built;  the  whole  road  was  in  a  transition  state  at 
the  time  of  our  travel ;  there  was,  however,  a  new  corral  for  "fort- 
ing"  against  Indians,  and  a  kind  of  leafy  arbor,  which  the  officials 
had  converted  into  a  "  cottage  near  a  wood." 

A  little  after  4  P.M.  we  forded  the  creek  painfully  with  our 
new  cattle  —  three  rats  and  a  slug.  The  latter  was  pronounced 
by  our  'Iriver,  when  he  condescended  to  use  other  language  than 
anathemata,  "  the  meanest  cuss  he  ever  seed."  We  were  careful, 
however,  to  suj^ply  him  at  the  shortest  intervals  with  whisky- 
drams,  which  stimulated  him,  after  breaking  his  whip,  to  perform 
a  tattoo  with  clods  and  stones,  kicks  and  stamps,  upon  the  recre- 
ant animals'  haunches,  and  by  virtue  of  these  we  accomplished  our 
twenty-five  miles  in  tolerable  time.  For  want  of  other  pleasant- 
ries to  contemplate,  we  busied  ourselves  in  admiring  the  regular- 
ity and  accuracy  with  which  our  consort  wagon  secured  for  her- 
self all  the  best  teams.  The  land  was  a  red  waste,  such  as  travel- 
ers find  in  Eastern  Africa,  which  after  rains  sheds  streams  like 
blood.  The  soil  was  a  decomposition  of  ferruginous  rock,  hero 
broken  with  rugged  hills,  precipices  of  ruddy  sandstone  200  feet 
high,  shaded  or  dotted  with  black-green  cedars,  there  cumbered 
by  huge  boulders ;  the  ravinc-liko  water-courses  which  cut  the 
road  showed  that  after  heavy  rains  a  net-work  of  torrents  must 
add  to  the  pleasures  of  traveling,  and  the  vegetation  was  reduced 
to  the  dull  green  artemisia,  the  azalia,  and  the  jaundiced  potentil- 

"  Lcttpr  A,  No.  1 — 'Jwvo  par  a  Tory  great  way." 

"Would  yoii  iK'lit'vo  him  on  oadi?" 

"  YcN,  Sir-oc,  on  or  oH',  or  nny  otlicr  way." 

"What  in  your  o)iinion  on  \m  (|unlifl('ntionA  to  Rooil  conduct?" 

•'lie's  tito  lict  shot  on  tho  prnirios  or  in  tho  woods;  lio  can  shave  the  cyo-bristles 

off  a  wolf  as  fur  a»  a  Hhootin'-iron  '11  carry  a  ball ;  ho  can  drink  a  quart  of  grog  any 

day,  and  he  c'luiws  tobncker  like  a  horse." 
iSo  Bill  Bushwhack  jiaMud  niustcr. — iV.  Y.  Sjiirit  qfthe  Times. 


136 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


la.  After  six  miles  we  saw  on  the  left  of  the  path  a  huge  natural 
pile  or  burrow  of  primitive  boulders,  about  200  feet  high,  and  call- 
ed "  Brigham's  Peak,"  because,  according  to  Jehu's  whisky  fled 
story,  the  prophet,  revelator,  and  seer  of  the  Latter-Day  Saints  had 
there,  in  1857  (!),  pronounced  a  4th  of  July  oration  in  the  pres- 
ence of  200  or  300  fair  devotees. 

Presently  we  emerged  from  the  red  region  into  the  normal 
brown  clay,  garnished  with  sage  as  moors  are  with  heather,  over 
a  road  which  might  have  suggested  the  nursery  rhyme, 

"Hero  we  go  up,  up,  up. 

There  wo  go  down,  down,  down." 

At  last  it  improved,  and  once  more,  as  if  we  never  were  to 
leave  it,  we  fell  into  the  Valley  of  the  Platte.  About  eight  miles 
from  our  destination  wc  crossed  the  sandy  bed  of  the  La  Prele 
Eiver,  an  arroyo  of  twenty  feet  wide,  which,  like  its  brethren, 
brims  in  spring  with  its  freight  of  melted  snow.  In  the  clear 
shade  of  evening  wc  traversed  the  "timber,"  or  well-wooded  lands 
lying  upon  Box-Elder  Creek — a  beautiful  little  stream  some  eight 
feet  broad,  and  at  9  P.M.  arrived  at  the  station.  The  master,  Mr. 
Wheeler,  was  exceptionably  civil  and  communicative ;  he  lent  us 
buffalo  robes  for  the  night,  and  sent  us  to  bed  after  the  best  sup- 
per the  house  could  afford.  We  were  not,  howevw,  to  be  balked 
of  our  proper  pleasure,  a  "good  grumble,"  so  we  hooked  it  on  to 
another  peg.  One  of  the  road-agents  had  just  arrived  from  Great 
Salt  Lake  City  in  a  neat  private  ambulance  after  a  journcv  of 
three  days,  while  we  could  liardly  expect  to  make  it  under  treble 
that  time.  It  was  agreed  on  all  sides  that  such  conduct  was  cH- 
rageous ;  that  Messrs.  Eussell  and  Co.  amply  deserved  t  3 

their  contract  taken  from  them,  and — on  these  occasions  yc  .  cit- 
izen looks  portentous,  and  deals  darkly  in  threatenings,  as  if  his 
single  vote  could  shake  the  spheres — wc  came  to  a  mutual  under- 
standing that  tltat  firm  should  never  enjoy  our  countenance  or 
support.  We  were  unanimous ;  all,  even  the  mortal  quarrel,  was 
"  made  up"  in  the  presence  of  the  general  foe,  the  Mail  Company. 
Briefly  we  retired  to  rest,  a  miserable  Public,  and,  soothed  by  the 
rough  lullaby  of  the  coyote,  whose  shrieks  and  scrcama  perfectly 
reproduced  tue  Indian  jackal,  we  passed  into  the  world  of  dreams. 

To  Platte  Bridge.    Autp-tt  \m. 

At  8  30  A.M.  we  were  once  more  under  way  along  the  valley 
of  Father  Platte,  whose  physiognomy  had  now  notably  changed 
for  the  better.  Instead  of  the  dull,  dark,  silent  stream  of  the  low- 
er course,  whose  muddy  monotonous  aspect  made  it  a  grievance 
to  behold,  we  descried  with  astonishment  a  bright  little  river, 
hardly  a  hundred  yards  wide — one's  ideas  of  potamology  are  en- 
larged with  a  witness  by  American  travel  I  a  mirrory  surface,  and 
waters  clear  and  limpid  as  the  ether  above  them.  The  limestones 
and  marls  which  destroy  the  beauty  of  the  Lower  Platte  do  not 


Chap.  III. 


CLIMATE.— THE  FIRST  MORMONS. 


137 


extend  to  the  upper  course.  The  climate  now  became  truly  de- 
licious. The  height  above  sea-level — 5000  feet — subjects  the  land 
to  the  wholesome  action  of  gentle  winds,  which,  about  10—11 
A.M.,  when  the  earth  has  had  time  to  air,  set  in  regularly  as  the 
sea-breezes  of  tropical  climes,  and  temper  the  keen  shine  of  day. 
These  higher  grounds,  where  the  soil  is  barren  rather  for  want  of 
water  than  from  the  character  of  its  constituents,  are  undoubtedly 
the  healthiest  part  of  the  plains :  no  noxious  malaria  is  evolved 
from  the  sparse  growth  of  tree  and  shrub  upon  the  banks  of  the 
river ;  and  beyond  them  the  plague  of  brulds  (sand-flies)  and  mus- 
quetoes  is  unknown ;  the  narrowness  of  the  bed  also  prevents  the 
shrinking  of  the  stream  in  autumn,  at  which  season  the  Lower 
Platte  exposes  two  broad  margins  of  black  infected  mire.  The 
three  great  elements  of  unhealthiness,  heavy  and  clammy  dews, 
moisture  exhaled  from  the  earth's  surface,  and  the  overcrowding 
of  population — which  appears  to  generate 'as  many  artificial  dis- 
eases as  artificial  wants — are  hero  unknown:  the  soil  is  never 
turned  up,  and  even  if  it  were,  it  probably  would  not  have  the 
deleterious  effect  which  climatologists  have  remarked  in  the  damp 
hot  regions  near  the  equator.  The  formation  of  the  land  begins 
to  change  from  the  tertiary  and  cretaceous  to  the  primary-— gran- 
ites and  porphyries — warning  us  that  we  are  approaching  the 
Kocky  Mountains. 

On  the  road  we  saw  for  the  first  time  a  train  of  Mormon  wag- 
ons, twenty-four  in  number,  slowly  wending  their  way  toward 
the  Promised  Land.  The  "  Captain"— those  who  fill  the  dignified 
ofiice  of  guides  are  so  designated,  and  once  a  captain  always  a 
captain  is  the  Far  Western  rule — was  young  Brigham  Young,  a 
nephew  of  the  Prophet ;  a  hlondin,  with  yellow  hair  and  beard,  au 
intelligent  countenance,  a  six-shooter  by  his  right,  and  a  bowie- 
knife  by  his  left  side.  It  was  impossible  to  mistake,  even  througl;i 
the  veil  of  freckles  and  sun-burn  with  which  a  two  months'  jour- 
ney had  invested  them,  the  nationality  of  the  emigrants;  "British- 
English"  was  written  in  capital  letters  upon  the  white  eyelashes 
and  tow-colored  curls  of  the  children,  and  upon  the  sandy  brown 
hair  and  staring  eyes,  heavy  bodies,  and  ample  extremities  of  the 
adults.  One  young  person  concealed  her  facial  attractions  under 
a  manticr  of  mask.  I  thought  that  perhaps  she  might  be  a  sul- 
tana, reserved  for  the  establishment  of  some  very  magnificent 
Mormon  bashaw ;  but  the  driver,  when  appealed  to,  responded 
with  contempt,  "  'Guess  old  Briggy  wont  stampede  many  o'  that 
'ere  lotl"  Though  thus  homely  in  appearance,  few  showed  any 
symptoms  of  sickness  or  starvation ;  in  fact,  their  condition  first 
impressed  us  most  flivorably  with  the  excellence  of  the  Perpetual 
Emigration  Funds'  traveling  arrangements. 

The  Mormons  who  can  afford  such  luxury  gcnerall}''  purchase 
for  the  transit  of  the  plains  an  emigrant's  wagon,  which  in  the 
West  seldom  costs  more  than  $185.    They  take  a  full  week  be- 


I 


i." 


I   ■ 


V'M 


138 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  HI. 


fore  well  en  route,  and  endeavor  to  leave  the  Mississippi  in  early 
May,  •when  "long  forage"  is  plentiful  upon  the  prairies.  Those 
prospecting  parties  who  are  bound  for  California  set  out  in  March 
or  April,  feeding  their  animals  with  grain  till  the  new  grass  ap- 
pears; after  November  the  road  over  the  Sierra  Nevada  being 
almost  impassable  to  way-worn  oxen.  The  ground  in  the  low 
parts  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  becomes  heavy  and  muddy  after 
the  first  spring  rains,  and  by  starting  in  good  time  the  worst  parts 
of  the  country  will  be  passed  before  the  travel  becomes  very  labo- 
rious. Moreover,  grass  soon  disappears  from,  the  higher  and  less 
productive  tracts;  between  Scott's  Bluffs  and  Great  Salt  Lake 
City  we  were  seldom  out  of  sight  of  starved  cattle,  and  on  one 
spot  I  counted  fifteen  skeletons.  Travelers,  however,  should  not 
push  forward  early,  unless  their  animals  are  in  good  condition 
and  are  well  supplied  with  grain ;  the  last  year's  grass  is  not  quite 
useless,  but  cattle  can  not  thrive  upon  it  as  they  will  upon  the 
grammas,  festucas,  and  buffalo  clover  {Trifoliuvi  reflcxum)  of  Utah 
and  New  Mexico.  The  journey  between  St.  Jo  and  the  Mormon 
capital  usually  occupies  from  two  to  three  months.  The  Latter- 
Day  Saints  march  with  a  quasi-military  organization.  Other  em- 
igrants form  companies  of  fifty  to  seventy  armed  men — a  single 
wagon  would  be  in  imminent  danger  from  rascals  like  the  Paw- 
nees, who,  though  fonder  of  bullying  than  of  fighting,  are  ever 
ready  to  cut  off  a  straggler — elect  their  "  Cap.,"  who  holds  the 
ofiice  only  during  good  conduct,  sign  and  seal  themselves  to  cer- 
tain obligations,  and  bind  themselves  to  stated  penalties  in  case 
of  disobedience  or  defection.  The  "  Prairie  Traveler"  strongly 
recommends  this  systematic  organization,  without  which,  indeed, 
no  expedition,  whether  emigrant,  commercial,  or  exploratory, 
ought  ever  or  in  any  part  of  the  world  to  begin  its  labors;  justly 
observing  that,  without  it,  discords  and  dissensions  sooner  or  later 
arise  which  invariably  result  in  breaking  up  the  company. 

In  this  train  I  looked  to  no  purpose  for  the  hand-carts  with 
which  the  poorer  Saints  add  to  the  toils  of  earthly  travel  a  semi- 
devotional  work  of  supererogation  expected  to  win  a  proportionate 
reward  in  heaven.* 

After  ten  miles  of  the  usual  number  of  creeks,  "Deep,"  "Small," 
"Snow,"  "Muddy,"  etc.,  and  heavy  descents,  we  reached  at  10 
A.M.  Deer  Creek,  a  stream  about  thirty  feet  wide,  said  to  abound 
in  fish.    The  station  boasts  of  an  Indian  agent,  Major  Twiss,  a 

•  The  following  estimate  of  outfit  was  given  to  me  by  a  Mormon  elder,  who  has 
frequently  traveled  over  the  Utah  route.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  and 
famil}-,  and  liclp — six  |>ersons  in  total ;  and  having  money  to  spare,  he  invested  it  in 
a  Rjieculation  which  could  hardly  fail  at  least  to  (|uadruply  his  outlay  at  the  end  of 
the  marcli :  the  stove,  for  instance,  Iwiught  at  fi^H,  would  sell  for  $80"to  $120.  Tliu 
experienced  emigrant,  it  may  be  obaervcd,  carries  witii  him  a  little  of  every  thing 
that  may  or  migh*  be  wanted,  such  as  provisions,  clothing,  furniture,  drugs,  lint,  sta- 
tionery, spices,  ammunition,  and  so  forth  ;  above  all  things,  ho  looks  to  his  wea])on8 
as  likely  to  be,  at  a  pinch,  his  best  friends : 


Chap,  III. 


BUNCH-GRASS.— MORMON  OUTFIT. 


139 


post-office,  a  store,  and  of  course  a  grog-shop.  M.  Bissonette,  the 
owner  of  the  two  latter  and  an  old  Indian  trader,  was  the  usual 
Creole,  speaking  a  French  not  unlike  that  of  the  Channel  Islands, 
and  wide  awake  to  the  advantages  derivable  from  travelers :  the 
large  straggling  establishment  seemed  to  produce  in  abundance 
large  squaws  and  little  half-breeds.  Fortunately  stimulants  are 
not  much  required  on  the  plains :  I  wish  my  enemy  no  more  ter- 
rible fate  than  to  drink  excessively  with  M.  Bissonette  of  M.  Bis- 
sonette's  liquor.  The  good  Creole,  when  asked  to  join  us,  naive- 
ly refused :  he  reminded  me  of  certain  wine-merchants  in  naore 
civilized  lands,  who,  when  dining  with  their  pratique,  sensibly 
prefer  small-beer  to  their  own  concoctions, 

A  delay  of  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  we  were  hurried  forward. 
The  ravines  deepened;  we  were  about  entering  the  region  of 
kanyons.*  Already  we  began  to  descry  bunch-grass  clothing 
the  hills.  This  invaluable  and  anomalous  provision  of  nature  is 
first  found,  I  believe,  about  fifty  miles  westward  of  the  meridian 
of  Fort  Laramie,  and  it  extends  to  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  On  the  Pacific  water-shed  it  gives  way  to  the  wild  oats 
{Avena  fatua),  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  introduced  into 
California  by  the  Spaniards.  The  festuca  is  a  real  boon  to  the 
land,  which,  without  it,  could  hardly  be  traversed  by  cattle.  It 
grows  by  clumps,  as  its  name  denotes,  upon  the  most  unlikely 
ground,  the  thirsty  sand,  and  the  stony  hills ;  in  fact,  it  thrives 
best  upon  the  poorest  soil.  In  autumn,  about  September,  when 
all  other  grasses  turn  to  hay,  and  their  nutriment  is  washed  "out 
by  the  autumnal  rains,  the  bunch-grass,  after  shedding  its  seed, 
begins  to  put  forth  a  green  shoot  within  the  apparently  withered 
sheath.  It  remains  juicy  and  nutritious,  like  winter  wheat  in 
April,  under  the  snows,  and,  contrary  to  the  rule  of  the  graminea^, 


2  yokes  oxen at  $180  to  $200  00;  100  lbs.  ham  and  bacon $U  00 

1  cow  (milch) 25  00:150  lbs.  crackers  (sea  biscuits)....      13  13 

1  wagon 87  30  100  lbs.  sugar 9  50 

1  (loublo  cover 8  50 

2  ox  yokes 8  00 

1  ox  chain 1  50 

1  tar-bucket 1  00 


25  lbs.  crystallized  ditto. 

24  lbs.  raisins... 
20  lbs.  currants. 

25  lbs.  rice 


3  00 

4  00 
3  00 
2  25 


15  00  1  bushel  dried  apples 6  00 


1  large  tent  (sf'J  for  smaller  sizes) 

Camp  equipment,  axes,  spades,  I     ioqq'I      "         "     peaches 4  30 

shovels,  triangles  for  fires,  etc.  )  I      "      beans 2  00 

600  lbs.  flour 25  50  1  stove 28  00 

I  Grand  total $W0  'J8 

♦  The  Spanish  cafion — Americanized  to  kanytn — signifies,  primarily,  a  cannon  or 
gun-barrel ;  secondarily,  a  tube,  shaft  of  a  mine,  or  a  ravine  of  peculiar  form,  com- 
mon in  this  part  cf  America.  The  word  is  loosely  applied  by  the  Western  men,  but 
))ropcrly  it  moans  those  gorges  through  a  lino  of  mountains  whoso  walls  are  high 
and  steep,  even  to  a  ttinnel-liko  overhanging,  while  their  soles,  which  afford  passages 
to  streams,  are  almost  flat.  In  Northern  Mexico  the  kanyon  becomes  of  stupendous 
dimensions  ;  it  is  sometimes  a  crack  in  the  plains  2000  feet  deep,  exposing  all  the 
layers  that  clothe  earth's  core,  with  a  stream  at  the  bottom,  in  sight,  but  impossible 
for  the  traveler  dying  of  thirst  to  drink  at. 


r-f 


140 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


it  pays  the  debt  of  nature,  drying  and  dying  about  May;  yet, 
even  -wlien  in  its  corpse-like  state,  a  ligbt  yellow  straw,  it  con- 
tains abundant  and  highly-flavored  nutriment ;  it  lasts  through 
the  summer,  retiring  up  the  mountains,  again  becomes  grass  in 
January,  thus  feeding  cattle  all  the  year  round.  The  small  dark 
pyriform  seed,  about  half  the  size  of  an  oat,  is  greedily  devoured 
by  stock,  and  has  been  found  to  give  an  excellent  flavor  to  beef 
and  mutton.  It  is  curious  how  little  food  will  fatten  animals 
upon  the  elevated  portions  of  the  prairies  and  in  the  valleys  of 
the  Eocky  Mountains.  I  remarked  the  same  thing  in  Somali- 
land,  where,  while  far  as  the  eye  could  see  the  country  wore  the 
semblance  of  one  vast  limestone  ledge,  white  with  desolation,  the 
sheep  and  bullocks  were  round  and  plump  as  stall-fed  animals. 
The  idea  forces  itself  upon  one's  mind  that  the  exceeding  purity 
and  limpidity  of  the  air,  by  perfecting  the  processes  of  digestion 
and  assimilation,  must  stand  in  lieu  of  quantity.  I  brought  back 
with  me  a  small  jxicket  of  the  bunch-grass  seed,  in  the  hope  that 
it  may  be  acclimatized :  the  sandy  lands  about  Aldershott,  for 
instance,  would  be  admirably  fitted  for  the  growth. 

We  arrived  at  a  station,  called  the  "Little  Muddy  Creek," 
after  a  hot  drive  of  twenty  miles.  It  was  a  wretched  place,  built 
of  "  dry  stories,"  viz.,  slabs  without  mortar,  and  the  interior  was 
■  garnished  with  certain  efforts  of  pictorial  art,  which  were  rather 
ksles  than  otherwise.  The  furniture  was  composed  of  a  box  and 
a  trunk,  and  the  negative  catalogue  of  its  supplies  was  extensive 
— whisky  forming  the  only  positive  item. 

We  were  not  sorry  to  resume  our  journey  at  1 15  P.M.  After 
eight  miles  we  crossed  the  vile  bridge  whicli  spans  "Snow  Creek," 
a  deep  water,  and  hardly  six  feet  wide.  According  to  the  sta- 
tion-men, water  here  was  once  perennial,  though  now  reduced  to 
an  occasional  freshet  after  rain:  this  phenomenon,  they  say,  is 
common  in  the  country,  and  they  attribute  it  to  the  sinking  of 
the  stream  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  bed,  which  have  become  po- 
rous, or  have  given  way.  It  is  certain  that  in  the  Sinaitic  regions 
many  springs,  which  within  a  comparatively  few  years  supplied 
whole  families  of  Bedouins,  have  unaccountably  dried  up ;  per- 
haps the  same  thing  happens  in  the  Eocky  Mountains. 

After  about  two  hcui-s  of  hot  sun,  we  debouched  upon  the  bank 
of  the  Platte  at  a  spot  where  once  was  the  Lower  Ferry.*  The 
river  bed  is  here  so  full  of  holes  and  quicksands,  and  the  stream 
is  so  cold  and  swift,  that  many  have  been  drowned  when  bathing, 
more  when  attempting  to  ^ave  time  by  fording  it.  A  wooden 
bridge  was  built  at  this  point  some  years  ago,  at  an  expense  of 
$26,000,  by  one  Eegshaw,  who,  if  report  docs  not  belie  him,  has 
gained  and  lost  more  fortunes  than  a  Wall  Street  professional 

♦  The  first  fcm-,  nrcordinR  to  tlio  fild  Kuidc-booka,  wns  nt  Deer  Creek  ;  tlio  fcc- 
ond  was  nt  tiiit*  place,  tliirty-onc  miles  above  the  furraer;  and  the  third  wns  four 
miles  still  farther  on. 


Chap.  in. 


COAL-BEDS.— TOLL-BRIDGE. 


141 


"  lame  duck."  We  halted  for  a  few  minutes  at  the  indispensable 
store — the  iete  de  poni — and  drank  our  whisky  with  ice,  which, 
after  so  long  a  disuse,  felt  unenjoyably  cold.  Eemounting,  we 
passed  a  deserted  camp,  where  in  times  gone  by  two  companies 
of  infantry  had  been  stationed :  a  few  stumps  of  crumbling  wall, 
broken  floorings,  and  depressions  in  the  ground,  were  the  only 
remnants  which  the  winds  and  rains  had  left.  The  banks  of  the 
Platte  were  stained  with  coal :  it  has  been  known  to  exist  for 
some  years,  but  has  only  lately  been  worked.  Should  the  sup- 
ply prove  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the  settlers,  it  will  do  more 
toward  the  civilization  of  these  regions  than  the  discovery  of 
gold. 

The  lignite  tertiary  of  Nebraska  extends  north  and  west  to  the 
British  line ;  the  beds  are  found  throughout  this  formation  some- 
times six  and  seven  feet  thick,  and  the  article  would  make  good 
fuel.  The  true  coal-measures  have  been  discovered  in  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  Nebraska  prairies,  and  several  small  seams 
at  different  points  of  the  Platte  Valley.  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden,  who 
accompanied  Lieutenant  Warren  as  geologist,  appears  to  think 
that  the  limestones  which  contain  the  supplies,  though  belonging 
to  the  true  coal-measures,  hold  a  position  above  the  workable 
beds  of  coal,  and  deems  it  improbable  that  mines  of  any  import- 
ance will  be  found  north  of  the  southern  line  of  Nebraska.  But, 
as  his  examination  of  the  ground  was  somewhat  hurriect,  there  is 
room  to  hope  that  this  unfavorable  verdict  will  be  canceled.  The 
coal  as  yet  discovered  is  all,  I  believe,  bituminous.  That  dug  out 
of  the  Platte  bank  runs  in  a  vein  about  six  feet  thick,  and  is  as 
hard  as  cannel  coal :  the  texture  of  the  rock  is  a  white  limestone. 
The  banks  of  the  Deer  and  other  neighboring  creeks  are  said  also 
to  contain  the  requisites  for  fuel. 

Our  station  lay  near  the  upper  crossing  or  second  bridge,  a 
short  distance  from  the  town.  It  was  also  built  of  timber  at  an 
expense  of  §40,000,  ibout  a  year  ago,  by  Louis  Guenot,  a  Que- 
becquois,  who  has  passed  the  last  twelve  years  upon  the  plains. 
He  appeared  very  downcast  about  his  temporal  prospects,  and 
handed  us  over,  with  the  insouciance  of  his  race,  to  the  tender 
mercies  of  his  venerable  squaw.  The  usual  toll  is  50  cents,  but 
from  trains,  especially  of  Mormons,  the  owner  will  claim  $5 ;  in 
fact,  as  much  as  he  can  get  without  driving  them  to  the  opposi- 
tion lower  bridge,  or  to  the  ferry-boat.  It  was  impossible  to 
touch  the  squaw's  supper;  the  tin  cans  that  contained  the  coffee 
were  slippery  with  grease,  and  the  bacon  looked  as  if  it  had  been 
dressed  side  by  side  with  "boyaux."  I  lighted  my  pipe,  and, 
air-cane  in  hand,  sallied  forth  to  look  at  the  country. 

The  heights  behind  the  station  were  our  old  friends  the  Black 
Hills,  which,  according  to  the  Canadian,  extend  with  few  breaks 
as  far  as  Denver  City.  They  are  covered  with  dark  green  pine ; 
at  a  distance  it  looks  black,  and  the  woods  shelter  a  variety  of 


.l!J 


I    fl 


\ 


,  I 


142 


THE  GITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CnAP.  III. 


wild  beasts,  the  grizzly  bear  among  the  number.  In  tlie  more 
grassy  spaces  mustangs,  sure-footed  as  mountain  goats,  roam  un- 
caught ;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  bills  the  slopes  are  well  stoeked 
with  antelope,  deer,  and  hares,  here  called  rabbits.  The  principal 
birds  arc  the  sage-hen  {Ihrao  iirojihasiaims)  and  the  prairie-hen 
(T.  praiensiti).  The  former,  also  called  the  cock  of  the  plains,  is 
a  fine,  strong-flying  grouse,  about  the  size  of  a  full-grown  barn- 
door fowl,  or,  when  younger,  of  a  European  pheasant,  which,  in- 
deed, the  form  of  the  tail,  as  the  name  denotes,  greatly  resembles, 
and  the  neck  is  smooth  like  the  partridge  of  the  Old  World.* 
Birds  of  the  year  are  considered  good  eating:  after  their  first 
winter  the  flesh  is  so  impregnated  with  the  intolerable  odor  of 
wild  sage  that  none  but  a  starving  man  can  touch  it.  The  prai- 
rie-hen, also  called  the  "heath-hen"  and  the  "pinnated  grouse," 
affects  the  plains  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  is  rarely  found  so 
far  west  as  the  Black  Hills:  it  is  not  a  migratory  bird.  'J'he  pin- 
na) from  which  it  derives  its  name  are  little  wing-like  tufts  on 
both  sides  of  the  neck,  small  in  the  female,  large  in  the  male. 
Thu  cock,  moreover,  has  a  stripe  of  skin  runnin,^  down  the  neck, 
which  changes  its  natural  color  toward  pairing-time,  and  becomes 
of  a  reddish  yellow:  it  swells  like  a  turkey-cock's  wattles,  till 
the  head  seems  buried  between  two  monstrous  protuberances,  the 
owner  spreading  out  its  tail,  sweeping  the  ground  with  its  wings, 
and  booming  somewhat  like  a  bittern.  Both  of  these  bird.",  which 
are  strong  on  the  wing,  and  give  good  siiort,  might  probably  be 
naturalized  in  Europe,  ■md  the  "Soeiute  d'Acclimatisation"  would 
do  well  to  think  of  it. 

Returning  to  the  station,  I  found  that  n  war-party  of  Arapahocs 
had  just  alighted  in  a  thin  copse  hard  by.  They  looked  hss  like 
warriors  than  like  a  band  of  honsc-stealers ;  and,  though  they  had 
set  out  with  the  determination  of  bringing  back  some  Yuta  scalps 
and  fingers,f  they  had  not  succeeded.  On  these  occasions  the 
young  braves  are  generally  very  sulky — a  fact  which  they  take 
caro  to  show  by  short  speech  and  rude  gestures,  throwing  about 
and  roughly  hiindling,  like  t^poiled  children,  whatever  comes  in 
tiieir  way.  At  such  times  one  must  always  bo  ])repared  for  a 
word  and  a  blow;  and,  indeed,  most  Indian  fighters  justifv  them- 
selves in  taking  tho  initiative,  as,  of  course,  it  is  a  great  thing  to 
.secure  first  ciianee.  However  we  may  yearn  toward  our  "poor 
black  brother,"  it  is  hard  not  to  sympathize  with  the  white  in 

•  The  frivinl  nnitiM  for  orgntiic  nntiirc  nrc  ns  confused  nml  rnnfiiHing  in  America 
n*  In  Indin,  in  ronscqucnco  of  llio  Old  Country  IcrniH  njiplicd,  fur /nH  rt  vffiin,  to 
Ni'W  Cniintry  prowtlH  .  for  indtniicc,  tlio  K|ir,u'c  Rnmst"  is  \\w  Cinmdinn  |Mirtrid(jo; 
tlip  niUlod  (iVoiiso  u  tlic  imrtridiio  of  New  KnKlund  nml  New  York,  nnd  ilic  plicn^- 
nnt  of  New  .Icrm-y  nnd  llie  Soutliprn  Stnii'i;  wliilci  in  llu-  Inttcr  tlic  roniinon  (junil 
(O.  Viriiimnnii)  w  rnllcd  "  |mrfridK<'." 

f  Tho  cn(  inyV  fort'  or  oilior  (in^'cr,  riwikcd  nnd  tied  with  two  l>it«  of  tlio  pkin 
wlii<-li  arc  nttiirlii'd  to  tlic  wrist  or  tin-  f  iridiciid,  in  n  fnvorili)  nnd  |pi(tMr('nr|U('  ornn- 
mcnt.  'i'hiat  fiiilin?,  tlio  l)!'ar'n(i'Kj«'rinIly  the  ^'ri/,)!Iy'N)  tnloiic,  bored  nt  the  Imsr,  nnd 
atrung  npou  their  linuws,  aro  convidcrcd  highly  hunurablo. 


Chap.  III. 


THE  WAil-PARTT. 


143 


many  aggressions  against  the  ferocious  and  capricious  so-called 
Eed  Man.  The  war-party  consisted  of  about  a  dozen  warriors, 
with  a  few  limber,  lither-looking  lads.  They  had  sundry  lean, 
sore-backed  nags,  which  were  presently  turned  out  to  graze.  Dirty 
rags  formed  the  dress  of  the  band ;  their  arms  were  the  usual  light 
lances,  garnished  with  leather  at  the  handles,  with  two  cropped 
tufts  and  a  long  loose  feather  dangling  from  them.  They  had 
bows  shaped  like  the  Grecian  Cupid's,  strengthened  with  sinews 
and  tipped  with  wire,  and  arrows  of  light  wood,  with  three  feath- 
ers— Captain  Mo.rcy  says,  two  intersecting  at  right  angles ;  but  I 
have  never  seen  this  arrangement — and  small  triangular  iron  piles. 
Their  shields  were  plain  targes — double  folds  of  raw  bulliilo  liidc, 
apparently  unstuffed,'  and  quite  unadorned.  They  carried  mangy 
buffalo  robes;  and  scattered  upon  the  ground  was  a  variety  of 
belts,  baldricks,  and  pouches,  with  split  porcupine  quills  dyed  a 
saffron  yellow. 

Tlic  Arapahocs,  generally  pronounced  'Rapahocs  —  called  by 
their  Shoshonec  neighbors  Sbaretikch,  or  Dog-eaters,  and  by  the 
French  Gros  Ventres — arc  a  tribe  of  thieves  living  betw^  ii  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas  llivers.  They  are 
bounded  north  by  the  Sioux,  and  hunt  in  the  same  grounds  with 
the  Cheyennes.  This  breed  is  considered  fierce,  treacherous,  and 
unfriendly  to  the  whites,  who  have  debauched  and  diseased  them, 
while  the  Cheyennes  arc  comparatively  chaste  and  uninfected. 
The  Arapaho  is  distinguished  from  the  Dakotah  by  the  superior 
gauntnoss  of  his  person,  and  the  boldness  of  his  look ;  there  are 
also  minor  points  of  diUbrenco  in  the  moccasins,  arrow-marks,  and 
weapons.  His  language,  like  that  of  the  Cheyennes,  has  never,  I 
am  told,  been  thorouglily  learned  by  a  stranger:  it  is  said  to  con- 
tain but  a  few  hundred  words,  and  these,  being  almost  all  explo- 
sive growls  or  guttural  grunts,  are  witli  diilleulty  acquired  by  the 
civilized  ear.  Like  the  Cheyennes,  the  Arapahocs  have  been 
somewhat  tamed  of  late  by  the  transit  of  the  United  States  army 
in  1857. 

Among  the  Prairie  Indians,  when  a  war-cliiof  has  matured  the 
plans  for  an  expedition,  he  habits  himself  in  the  garb  of  battle, 
'riien,  inounting  his  steed,  and  carrying  a  lance  ailorned  with  a 
(lag  and  eagle's  feathers,  ho  rides  about  the  cainp  chanting  his  war- 
song.  Tiioso  disposed  to  volunteer  join  the  parade,  also  on  liorse- 
back,  and,  after  sulUeiently  exhibiting  themselves  to  the  admira- 
tion of  tlic  village,  return  home.  Tliis  ceremony  continues  till 
the  re(piisito  number  is  collected.  The  war-dance,  ar  the  ritea 
of  the  medicine-man,  together  with  perhaps  [)rivate  peu  mces  and 
propitiations,  are  the  next  step.  There  arc  also  copious  jiowwows, 
in  which,  as  in  the  African  parlance,  the  chiefs,  elders,  and  warriors 
sit  for  hours  in  grim  debate,  solemn  as  if  the  fate  of  empires  hung 
upon  their  words,  to  decide  the  momentous  (piostiuu  whether  Jack 
shall  have  half  a'pound  more  meat  than  Jim.     Neither  the  chief 


P      '! 


i  ■ 

i      1 


E 

all 

H^ 

■  -  r"!Trr-  ■■ 

B: 

■:^..,1 

Bl 

1 

«N 

d:'!-'  1 

lU 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


nor  the  warriors  are  finally  committed  by  the  procession  to  the 
expedition ;  they  are  all  volunteers,  at  liberty  to  retire ;  and  jeal- 
ousy, disappointment,  and  superstition  often  interpose  between 
themselves  and  glory. 

The  war-party,  when  gone,  is  thoroughly  gone ;  once  absent, 
they  love  to  work  in  mystery,  and  look  forward  mainly  to  the 
pleasure  of  surprising  their  friends.  After  an  absence  which  may 
extend  for  months,  a  loud,  piercing,  peculiar  cry  suddenly  an- 
nounces the  vanguard  courier  of  the  returning  braves.  The  camp 
is  thrown  at  once  from  the  depths  of  apathy  to  the  height  of  ex- 
citement, which  is  also  the  acmd  of  enjoyment  for  those  whoso 
lives  must  be  spent  in  forced  inaction.  The  warriors  enter  with 
their  faces  painted  black,  and  their  steeds  decorated  in  the  most 
fantastic  style ;  the  women  scream  and  howl  their  exultation,  and 
feasting  and  merriment  follow  with  the  ceremonious  scalp-dance. 
The  braves  arc  received  with  various  degrees  of  honor  according 
to  their  deeds.  The  highest  merit  is  to  ride  single-handed  into 
the  enemy's  camp,  and  to  smite  a  lodge  with  lance  or  bow.  The 
second  is  to  take  a  warrior  jtrisoner.  The  third  is  to  strike  a  dead 
or  fallen  man — an  idea  somewhat  contrary  to  the  Englishman's 
fancies  of  fair  play,  but  intelligible  enough  where  it  is  the  custom, 
as  in  llindostan,  to  lie  upon  the  ground  "  playing  'possum,"  and 
waiting  the  opportunity  to  hamstring  or  otherwise  disable  the  op- 

1)onent.  Tlic  least  of  groat  achievements  is  to  slay  an  enemy  in 
land-to-hand  fight.  A  Tyrrhic  victory,  won  even  at  an  inconsid- 
erable loss, is  treated  as  a  defeat;  the  object  of  the  Indian  guerril- 
la chief  is  to  destroy  the  foe  with  as  little  risk  to  himself  jmd  his 
men  as  possible;  tuis  is  his  highest  boast,  and  in  this  arc  all  his 
hopes  ol  fame.  Should  any  of  the  party  fall  in  battle,  the  rela- 
tives mourn  by  cutting  oil' their  hair  and  the  manes  and  tails  of 
their  horses,  and  the  lugubrious  lamentations  of  the  women  intro- 
duce an  ugly  clement  into  the  triumjjhal  jiroccssion. 

In  the  evening,  tus  Mrs.  Dana,  her  husband,  and  I  were  sitting 
outside  tlio  station,  two  of  the  warriors  came  and  placed  them- 
selves without  ('(^remony  upon  the  nearest  stones.  They  were 
exceedingly  unprepossessing  witli  their  small  gipsy  eyes,  high, 
rugged  cheek-bones,  broad  flat  faces,  coarse  sensual  mouths  evert- 
ed as  to  the  li{)s,  and  long  heavy  chins;  they  had  removed  every 
sign  of  manhood  from  their  fae(>s,  anil  their  complexions  were  a 
dull  oily  red,  the  result  of  vermilion,  ochre,  or  some  sucjj  pigment, 
of  which  they  are  as  fond  as  Hindoos,  grimed  in  for  years.  'I'luy 
watch'^d  every  gesture,  ami  at  times  connuunieated  tlieir  opinions 
to  each  other  in  undistinguishablc  gruntings,  with  curious  attemjtfs 
at  eaehinnation.  It  is  said  that  the  wild  dog  is  unable  to  Imrk, 
and  tliat  the  Uimo  variety  has  aenuired  the  faculty  by  attempting 
to  imitate  the  human  voice;  it  is  certain  that,  ns  a  rule,  only  tlio 
civili/.cd  man  can  laugh  loudly  and  heartily.  I  liappene<l  to  men- 
tion to  my  fellow- travelers  the  univer.sal  dislike  of  savages  to  any 


mountains. 


Chap.  III. 


SMOKING.— MORMONLAND  NEAR. 


145 


thing  like  a  sketcli  of  their  physiognomies;  they  expressed  a  doubt 
that  the  Indians  were  subject  to  the  rule.  Pencil  and  paper  were 
at  hand,  so  we  proceeded  to  proof.  The  savage  at  first  seemed 
uneasy  under  the  operation,  as  the  Asiatic  or  African  will  do, 
averting  his  face  at  times,  and  shifting  position  to  defeat  my  pur- 
pose. When  I  passed  the  caricature  round  it  excited  some  mer- 
riment ;  the  subject,  forthwith  rising  from  his  seat,  made  a  sign 
that  he  also  wished  to  see  it.  At  the  sight,  however,  he  screwed 
up  his  features  with  an  expression  of  intense  disgust,  and  mana- 
gmg  to  "smudge"  over  the  sketch  with  his  dirty  thumb,  he  left  us 
with  a  " pooh!"  that  told  all  his  outraged  feelmgs. 

Presently  the  warriors  entered  the  station  to  smoke  and  tacitly 
beg  for  broken  victuals.  They  squatted  in  a  circle,  and  passed 
lound  the  red  sandstone  calumet  with  great  gravity,  puffing  like 
steam-tugs,  inhaling  slowly  and  lingeringly,  swallowing  the  fumes, 
and  with  upturned  faces  exhaling  thera  through  the  nostrils. 
They  made  no  objection  to  being  joined  by  us,  and  always  before 
handmg  the  oipe  to  a  neighbor,  they  wiped  the  reed  mouth-piece 
with  the  cushion  of  the  thumb.  The  contents  of  their  calumet 
were  kinnikinik,  and,  though  they  accepted  tobacco,  they  prefer- 
red replenishing  witk  their  own  mixture.  They  received  a  small 
present  of  provisions,  and  when  the  station-people  went  to  supper 
they  were  shut  out. 

We  are  now  slipping  into  Mormonland ;  one  of  tlie  station- 
keepers  belonged  to  the  new  religion.  The  "madam,"  on  enter- 
ing the  room,  had  requested  him  to  depose  a  cigar  which  tainted 
the  air  with  a  perfume  like  that  of  greens'-water ;  he  took  the  mat- 
ter so  coolly  that  I  determined  he  was  not  au  American,  and,  true 
enough,  he  proved  to  bo  a  cabinet-maker  from  Birmingham.  I 
spent  the  evening  reading  poor  Albert  Smith's  "  Story  of  Mont 
Blanc"— Mont  Blanc  in  sight  of  the  Rockv  Mountains !— and  ad- 
miring how  the  prince  of  entertainers  led"  up  the  reader  to  what 
he  called  the  crowning  glory  of  hin  life,  the  unpenlous  ascent  of 
th£\t  monarch  of  the  Alps,  much  in  the  spirit  with  which  one 
would  have  addressed  the  free  and  independent  voters  of  some 
well-bribed  P^nglish  borough. 

We  are  now  about  to  quit  the  region  which  Nature  has  pre- 
pared, by  ready-made  roads  and  embankments,  for  a  railway ;  all 
beyond  this  point  difficulties  arc  so  heaped  upon  difficulties— as 
the  sequel  will  prove— that  wo  must  hope  against  hope  to  sec  tho 
"  iron  horse"  (I  bclievo  be  is  so  called)  holding  his  way  over  tho 
mountains. 

.  VfhAufjuiit.     To  tfifl  Vallfwf  the  Sweetwater. 

Ihc  mornmfr  was  bright  and  clear,  cool  and  pleasant.  The 
last  night's  abstinence  had  told  ujion  our  squoamishncsr:  wo  man- 
aged to  secure  a  fowl,  and  witli  it8  aid  wo  overcame  our  rej)ug- 
nance  to  the  massive  HJices  of  eggless  bacon.  At  6  80  A.M.  we 
hitched  up,  crossed  tho  rickety  l)ridgo  at  a  slow  pace,  and  pro- 

K. 


146 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


ceeded  for  the  first  time  to  ascend  tlie  left  bank  of  the  Platte. 
The  valley  was  grassy;  the  eternal  sage,  however,  haunted  us; 
the  grouse  ran  before  ns,  and  the  prairie-dogs  squatted  upon  their 
house-tops,  enjoying  the  genial  morning  rays.  After  ten  miles 
of  severe  ups  and  downs,  which,  by-the-bv,  nearly  brought  our 
consort,  the  official's  wagon,  to  grief,  we  halted  for  a  few  minutes 
at  an  old-established  trading-post  called  "Red  Buttes."^  The 
feature  from  which  it  derives  its  name  Hqs  on  the  right  bank  of, 
and  about  five  miles  distant  from  the  river,  which  here  cuts  its 
way  through  a  ridge.  These  bluffs  are  a  fine  bold  formation, 
escarpments  of  ruddy  argillaceous  sandstones  and  shells,  which 
dip  toward  the  west :  they  are  the  eastern  wall  of  the  mass  that 
hems  in  the  stream,  and  rear  high  above  it  their  conical  heads 
and  fantastic  figures.  The  ranch  was  on  the  margin  of  a  cold, 
clear  spring,  of  which  we  vainly  attempted  to  drink.  The  banks 
were  white,  as  though  by  hoar-frost,  with  nitrate  and  carbonate 
of  soda  cfllorcscing  from  the  dark  mould.  Near  Red  Buttcs  the 
water  is  said  to  have  a  chalybeate  flavor,  but  of  that  we  were  un- 
able to  judge. 

Having  allowed  the  squaws  and  half-breeds  a  few  minutes  to 
gaze,  we  resumed  our  way,  taking  off  our  caps  in  token  of  adieu 
to  old  Father  Platte,  our  companion  for  many  a  weary  mile.  We 
had  traced  his  cours*--  upward,  through  its  various  phases  and  vi- 
cissitudes, from  the  dignity  and  portliness  of  his  later  career  as  a 
full-grown  river  to  his  small  and  humble  youth  as  a  mountain 
rivulet,  and — interest,  cither  in  man  or  stream,  often  results  from 
the  trouble  we  take  about  them — 1  looked  upon  him  for  the  last 
time  with  a  feeling  akin  to  regret.  Moreover,  we  had  been  warn- 
ed that  from  the  crossing  of  the  North  Platte  to  the  Sweetwater 
all  is  a  dry,  and  dreary,  and  desolate  waste. 

On  the  wi'.y  we  met  a  mounted  Indian,  armed  with  a  rifle,  and 
habited  in  the  most  grotesque  costume.  "Jack" — he  was  recog- 
nized by  the  driver  —  wore  a  suit  of  buckskin,  and  a  fool's  cap 
made  out  of  an  old  blanket,  with  a  i)air  of  ass-ear  appendages  tliat 
hung  backward  viciously  like  a  mule's ;  his  mouUi  grinned  from 
car  to  ear,  and  his  eyes  were  protected  by  glass  and  wire  goggles, 
which  gave  them  the  appearance  of  being  mounted  on  stalks  like 
a  erustacean'.s.  He  followed  us  for  some  distance,  lionoring  us  by 
riding  close  to  the  carriage,  in  hopes  of  a  little  black-mail ;  but  we 
were  not  generous,  and  we  afterward  heard  .something  which  made 
us  glad  that  wc  had  not  been  tempted  to  liberality.     He  was  lb!- 

•  Ttio  Froncti  word  in  extensively  used  in  the  Rnckv  Mniintnins  nnd  Orepnti, 
"wlicre,"  HiivH  Colonel  ric'inont  ("  Kx|>editi()n  to  the  Uoekv  MoiintninH,"  \i  I4r>),  "it 
is  nntiiriiliited,  and  which,  if  deKirnlile  to  render  into  F-nj-linli,  there  h  no  \voi<l  wliiiii 
would  Ih>  its  |ireeiKe  e(|iiivnlent.  It  in  npidied  to  the  detneiu'd  hilN  mid  rid^'es  which 
riM-  nhnii'lly  nnil  rencli  too  hij.'h  to  he  enlletl  IiilN  or  ridp's,  and  are  not  hi(;li  eiiongli" 
-  lie  nii>;hl  have  ndilcd,  are  not  mniihivo  enough — "to  Ih^  called  nioiiiituin'*.  hnoh, 
as  n(i|il  cd  ill  the  Western  States,  is  their  most  deserijitive  term  in  F.nKlish;  lnit  no 
tranilation  or  pcrijibnuiis  would  preserve  the  idontit)  of  these  pieturewpio  Iniulmarks.' 


Chab.  m.     THE  DEVIL'S  BACKBONE. -WILLOW  SPRINGS.  147 

lowed  by  an  ill-favored  squaw,  dressed  in  a  kind  ofonH^r.  «^„ 
remarkable  only  for  the  shoulders  beinS  cnnSlrnW         ^°^"' 
than  the  waist./ She  sat  her  barfnag  cTvall^^^^^^^ 
we  passed  with  that  peculiarly  unpleasant  -E  n?  ^ 

women  are  so  fond  of  fetowing.  ^  ^^^"^^  P'^'^ 

After  eighteen  miles'  drive  we  descended  a  stppn  l,m  nr,^ 
shown  the  Devil's  Backbone.    Itis  ajagged  bSk?nr  Lo^^ 
t^t^sToftfo"'  ^'^'  ?^  ^  W«.S^S^S^^^^^^^^^ 

tt  hTge'nSoclThe'fi  ^f  "^^^^on^Sned  withS  paTtne'l^' 

ly  the  Devii;s  Gate,  the  De\lX7officrrd\tKS^^^^ 
TuSa^^ftSYCnt^^S^^^^^^^^^^^ 

shed  and  a  bunk,  but  rco'^a'^rd  tt^^i^ra  d%l?'o? 
Z7l  f  ^'*^'  exc  ted  feelings'  of  the  ranchcrS.     The  po^^^^^^^^^ 
lows  had  been  plundered  of  their  bread  and  drinl  r.t  nV  f 
petty  thief,  who'^had  burrowed  under  the  wairandX^.''''?^ 
suspected  our  goggled  friend,  Jack  the  Arapak,      uJ^Z  jS 
ha.r  m.ght  have  found  itself  suspended  near  tJe  fSaco  if  he 
had  then  been  within  rifle-shot;  is  it  was,  the  tvvovSns  could 
only  nululgc  in  consolatory  threats  about  wreakin/therven^P 

^Zr::F:-j^^\:s^  -^'  oritturnted 
atwinowVings;'uSsssiy:^r^Enr^s^ 

cdi^'blifb^;if  '7i  nT"'?-I.?"'  way  through  the  yellow-flower- 
Sdcti'heat^    ,  ^  ^"tnK  "''  ^^^i^-r'  ' 

..f  so,l„,„n.l  U  ono  „f  the  native  sa    '"u  kj  7'  If  '"'.'""";  "'^ ''""''*  "'"'  ^'''''''i'lo 
Hungary,  Africn,  nn.l  ..tl,."r  ,•ountri!.^•  "''  '^^'""^  '"  "'"  Northern  Lakes,  i» 

^cs.,,.ic.arlH.aa,c.     Tlu,  oiIkt T.  U  ^o  o  f ,,  '\?'^  '■^"?=^""  K"-"""""^  "«■«''" 


't      li 


hi  »i 


t 


L  I 


t     ;f^''> 


148 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IU. 


It  lies  to  the  west  of  the  road,  and  is  only  one  of  a  chain  of  alka- 
line waters  and  springs  whose  fetor,  without  exaggeration,  taints 
the  land.  Cattle  drinking  of  the  fluid  are  nearly  sure  to  die ; 
even  those  that  eat  of  the  herbe  salee,  or  salt  grass  growing  upon 
its  borders,  and  known  by  its  reddish-yellow  and  sometimes  blu- 
ish tinge,  wiU  suffer  from  a  disease  called  the  "  Alkali,  which  not 
unfrequently  kills  them.  The  appearance  of  the  Saleratus  Lake 
startles  the  traveler  who,  in  the  full  blaze  of  midday  upon  this 
arid  waste,  where  mirage  mocks  him  at  every  turn,  suddenly  sees 
outstretched  before  his  eyes  a  kind  of  Wenham  Lake  solidly  over- 
frozen.  The  illusion  is  so  perfect  that  I  was  completely  deceived, 
nor  could  the  loud  guffaws  of  the  driver  bring  me  at  once  to  the 
conclusion  that  seeing  in  this  case  is  not  believing.  On  a  near 
inspection,  the  icy  surface  turns  out  to  be  a  dust  of  carbonate  of 
so^,  concealing  beneath  it  masses  of  the  same  material,  washed 
out  of  the  adjacent  soil,  and  solidified  by  evaporation.  The  Lat- 
ter-Day  Saints  were .  charmed  with  their  trouvaille,  and  laid  in 
stores  of  the  fetid  alkai.uo  matter,  as  though  it  had  been  manna, 
for  their  bread  and  pastry.  It  is  still  transported  westward,  and 
declared  to  be  purer  than  the  saleratus  of  the  shops.  Near  the 
lake  is  a  deserted  ranch,  wh;,  '■  once  enjoyed  the  title  of  "Sweet- 
water Station."  ^  ,    „    ^  ^     ,  .,    ,, 

Four  miles  beyond  this  "Waterless  Lake"— Bahr  bila  Ma  as 
the  Bedouin  would  call  it— wo  arrived  at  Rock  Independence, 
and  felt  ourselves  in  a  new  region,  totally  distinct  from  the  clay 
formation  of  the  niauvaises  terres  over  which  we  have  traveled 
for  the  last  five  days.  Again  I  was  startled  by  its  surprising  like- 
ness to  the  scenery  of  Eastern  Africa:  a  sketch  of  Jiwe  la  Mkoa, 
the  Round  Rock  in  eastern  Unyamwezi,*  would  be  mistaken,  even 
by  those  who  had  seen  both,  for  this  grand  cchantiUon  of  tiie 
Rocky  Mountains.  It  crops  out  of  an  open  plain,  not  far  from 
the  river  bed,  in  dome  shape  wholly  isolated,  about  1000  feet  in 
length  by  400—500  in  breadth ;  it  is  60  to  100  feet  in  hcight.f 
aruf  in  circumference  1^  to  2  miles.  Excent  upon  the  summit, 
where  it  has  been  weathered  into  a  foldspathic  soil,  it  is  bare  and 
bald ;  a  scanty  growth  of  shrubs  protrudes,  however,  from  its  poll. 
The  material  of  the  etern-looking  dome  is  granite,  in  enormous 
slabs  and  boulders,  cracked,  flaked,  seared,  and  cloven,  as  if  by 
igneous  pressure  from  below.  The  prevailing  tradition  in  the 
West  is,  that  the  mass  derived  its  name  from  the  fact  that  Colonel 
Frdmont  there  delivered  an  Independence-day  oration ;  but  read 
a  little  farther.  It  is  easily  ascended  at  the  northern  side  and  tlio 
southeastern  corner,  and  many  climb  its  rugged  flanks  for  a  pe- 
culiarly Anglo-American  purpose— Smith  and  Brown  have  held 

•  1  crnvo  the  irndpr'n  pitn^nn  for  refcrrinp  him  to  mjr  own  pnlilicnliopB;  but  the 
onlv  nrrnunt  of  thin  Uonnd  lUx-k  which  huH  hitherto  liocn  imbiislicd  is  to  t)c  fouiiU 
in  the  "Lake  RoRions  of  ('cntrftl  Afiico  "  (Imp.  viii. 

t  Colonel  Frdmont  kIvcs  its  diincnsio!  h  ;..  (150  ynrds  long  nnd  40  fcc-t  liij;li. 


Chap.  in. 


EOCK  INDEPENDENCE. 


14» 


high  jmks  here.  In  Colonel  Frdraont's  time  (1842),  every  where 
withm  SIX  or  eight  feet  of  the  ground,  where  the  surface  is  suffi- 
ciently smooth,  and  in  sonie  places  sixty  or  eighty  feet  above,  the 
rock  was  inscribed  with  the  names  of  travelers.  Hence  the  In- 
dians have  named  it  Timpe  Nabor,  or  the  Painted  Rock,  corre- 
sponding with  the  Sinaitic  "  Wady  Mukattab."    In  the  present 

i^ma^L'^^''^  f  *^®  '''i*^^  ^f  ^'^^  ^^^^ed  away  by  rain, 
40,000-50,000  souls  are  calculated  to  have  left  their  dates  and 
marks  from  the  coping  of  the  wall  to  the  loose  stones  below  this 
nuge  sign-post.  There  is,  however,  some  reason  in  the  proceed- 
ing; It  does  not  in  these  lands  begin  and  end  with  the  sillv  pur- 
pose, as  among  climbers  of  the  Pyramjds,  and  fouilkurs  of  the 
sarcophagi  of  Apis,  to  bequeath  one's  few  poor  letters  to  a  little 
athanasia.  Prairie  travelers  and  emigrants  expect  to  be  followed 
by  their  friends,  and  eave,  in  their  vermilion  outfit,  or  their  white 
house-paint,  or  their  brownish-black  tar-a  useful  article  for  wag 
ons-a  homely  but  hearty  word  of  love  or  direction  upon  any 
conspicuous  object  Even  a  bull  or  a  buffalo's  skull,  which,  lying 
Po2  £a2  ''"'''"*  attention,  is  maU.,  to  do  duty  it  thif 

I  will  here  take  the  liberty  of  digressing  a  little,  with  the  char- 
itable  purpose  of  admiring  the  serious  turn  with  which  the  United 
btates  explorers  perform  their  explorations. 

Colonel  Frdmont*  thus  calls  to  mind  the  earnest  deeds  of  a  bv- 
fr%  T  P  Q^'^^  ^^°'^^  Weyraoutli  was  sent  out  to  Maine  by 
the  i^.arl  of  Southampton,  Lord  Arundel,  and  others,  and  in  the 
narrative  of  their  discoveries  he  says, '  The  next  day  we  ascended 
in  our  pinnace  that  part  of  the  river  which  lies  more  to  the  west- 
ward, carrying  with  us  a  cross— a  thing  never  omitted  by  any 
Christian  traveler— winch  wo  erected  at  the  ultimate  end  of  our 
route  This  was  in  the  year  1605,  and  in  1842  I  obeyed  the  feel- 
ing of  early  travelers,  and  loft  the  impressions  of  the  cross  deeply 
engraved  on  the  vast  rock,  one  thousand  miles  beyond  the  Missis- 
Imfe'  cndence ''     ''°'^'^''*^''^  ^"^''^  ^'^''^  *^*^  national  name  of  Bock 

Captain  Stansburyf  is  not  less  scrupulous  upon  the  subject  of 
raveling  proprieties.  One  of  his  entries  is  couched  as  follows: 
Sunday,  June  10,  barometer  28-82,  thermometer  70°.  The  camn 
rested:  it  had  been  determined,  from  the  commencement  of  the 
expedition,  to  devote  this  day,  whenever  practicable,  to  its  legiti- 
mate purpose  as  an  interval  of  rest  for  man  and  beast.  I  here 
beg  to  record,  as  the  result  of  my  experience,  derived  not  only 
from  the  present  lourncy,  but  from  the  observations  of  many  yeara 
spent  in  the  performance  of  similar  duties,  that,  as  a  mere  matter 
of  pecuniary  consulorat.on  apart  from  all  higher  obligations,  it  m 
mm  to  kcej)  the  Sabbatli."  ' 

•  Report  of  tl.0  ExplorinK  Expedition  to  tho  Hocky  Mo.mtaing,  p.  72. 
1  Stmisbury's  ExiK.-ditioii,  oil.  i.,  p.  :»1>.  .  i    '-• 


;fl; 


150 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IIL 


Lieutenant  "W.F.  Lynch,  United  States  Navy,  who  in  1857  com- 
manded the  United  States  Expedition  to  the  Eiver  Jordan  and  the 
Dead  Sea,*  and  published  a  narrative  not  deficient  in  interest,  thus 
describes  his  proceedings  at  El  Meshra,  the  bathing-place  of  the 
Christian  pilgrims : 

"  This  ground  is  consecrated  by  tradition  as  the  place  where 
the  Israelites  passed  over  with  the  ark  of  the  covenant,  and  where 
the  blessed  Savior  was  baptized  by  John.  Feeling  that  it  would 
be  desecration  to  moor  the  boats  at  a  place  so  sacred,  we  passed 
it,  and  with  some  difiiculty  found  a  landing  below. 

"  My  first  act  was  to  bathe  in  the  consecrated  stream,  thanking 
God,  first,  for  the  precious  favor  of  being  permitted  to  visit  such 
a  spot ;  and,  secondly,  for  nis  protecting  care  throughout  our  peril- 
ous passage.  For  a  long  time  after  I  sat  upon  the  bank,  my  mind 
oppressed  with  awe,  as  I  mused  upon  the  great  and  wondrous 
events  which  had  here  occurred."  In  strange  contrast  with  these 
passages  stands  the  characteristic  prophecy,  "  The  time  is  coming 
— the  beginning  is  come  now — when  the  whole  worthless  list  of 
kings,  with  all  their  myrmidons,  will  be  swept  from  their  places, 
and  made  to  bear  a  part  in  the  toils  and  sufferings  of  the  great 
human  family,"  etc.,  etc. 

I  would  not  willingly  make  light  in  others  of  certain  finer  sen- 
timents— veneration,  for  instance,  and  conscientiousness — which 
Nature  has  perhaps  debarred  me  from  overenjoying ;  nor  is  it  in 
my  mind  to  console  myself  for  the  privation  by  debasing  the  gift 
in  those  gifted  with  it.  But — the  but,  I  fear,  will,  unlike  "if,"  be 
any  thing  rather  than  a  great  peacemaker  in  this  case — there  are 
feelings  which,  when  strongly  felt,  when  they  well  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  heart,  man  conceals  in  the  privacy  of  his  own  bosom ; 
and  which,  if  published  to  the  world,  arc  apt  to  remind  the  world 
that  it  has  heard  of  a  form  of  speech,  as  well  as  of  argument,  rank- ' 
ing  under  the  category  of  ad  ca^itandum  vuhjus. 

About  a  mile  beyond  Independence  Rock  we  forded  the  Sweet- 
water. Wc  had  crossed  the  divide  between  this  stream  and  the 
Platte,  and  were  now  to  ascend  our  fourth  river  valley,  the  three 
others  being  the  Missouri,  the  Big  Blue,  and  the  Nebraska.  The 
Canadian  voyagcurs  have  translated  the  name  Sweetwater  from 
the  Indian  Pina  Pa ;  but  the  term  is  here  more  applicable  in  a 
metaphorical  than  in  a  literal  point  of  view.  The  water  of  the 
lower  bed  is  rather  hard  than  otherwise,  and  some  travelers  have 
detected  bracki.shness  in  it,  yet  the  banks  are  free  from  the  saline 
hoar,  which  deters  the  thirstiest  from  touching  many  streams  on 
this  line.  Tiie  Sweetwater,  in  its  calmer  course,  is  a  perfect  Naiad 
of  the  mountains;  presently  it  will  be  an  Undine  hurried  by  that 
terrible  Anagk(5,  to  which  Jove  himself  must  bend  his  omniscient 
head,  into  the  grisly  marital  ombraco  of  tlio  gloomy  old  Platte. 

*  Chap.  iii.     Authorized  Editiuu.     Sampiiuu  Low,  &)ou,  and  Co.,  47  Ludgato  Ilil), 
1860. 


Chap.  IU.     THE  DEVIL'S  GATE.-RATTLESNAKE  HILLS.  151 

Passing  pleasant,  after  the  surly  ungenial  silence  of  the  Shallow 
River,  IS  the  merry  prattle  with  which  she  answers  the  whisper- 
ings of  those  fickle  flatterers,  the  winds,  before  that  wedding-day 
when  silence  shall  become  her  doom.  There  is  a  something  in  the 
Sweetwater  which  appeals  to  the  feelings  of  rugged  men :  even 
the  drivers  and  the  station-keepers  speak  of  "  her"  with  a  bearish 
aiiection. 

After  fording  the  swift  Pina  Pa,  at  that  point  about  seventy  feet 
wide  and  deep  to  the  axles,  we  ran  along  its  valley  about  six  miles 
and  reached  at  9  15  P.M.  the  muddy  station  kept  by  M.  Plantd' 
the  usual  Canadian.     En  route  we  had  passed  by  the  Devil's  Gate' 
one  of  the  great  curiosities  of  this  line  of  travel.    It  is  the  beau 
^eal  ot  a  kanyon,  our  portal  opening  upon  the  threshold  of  the 
Kocky  Mountains:  I  can  compare  its  form  from  afar  only  with 
•the  Breche  de  Eoland  in  the  Pyrenees.     The  main  pass  of  Aden 
magnifaed  twenty  fold  is  something  of  the  same  kind,  but  the  sim- 
lie  is  too  unsavory.     The  height  of  the  gorge  is  from  300  to  400 
feet  perpendicular,  and  on  the  south  side  threatening  to  fall-  it 
has  already  done  so  in  parts,  as  the  masses  which  cumber  the 
stream-bed  show.     The  breadth  varies  from  a  minimum  of  40  to 
a  maximum  of  105  feet,  where  the  fissure  yawns  out,  and  the  to- 
tal  ength  of  the  cleft  is  about  250  yards.     The  material  of  the 
walls  IS  a  gray  granite,  traversed  by  dikes  of  trap;  and  the  rock 
in  which  the  deep  narrow  crevasse  has  been  made  runs  ri^ht 
through  the  extreme  southern  shoulder  of  a  ridge,  which  beara 
appropriately  enough  the  name  of  "  Rattlesnake  Hills."     Through 
this  wild  gorge  the  bright  stream  frets  and  forces  her  way,  sing- 
ing, unlike  Liris,  with  a  feminine  untaciturnity,  that  awakes  the 
echoes  of  the  pent-up  channel— tumbling  and  gurgling,  dashino- 
and  foaming  over  the  snags,  blocks,  and  boulders,  which,  falleS 
from  the  cliffs  above,  obstruct  the  way,  and  bedewing  the  cedars 
and  bright  shruDs  which  fringe  the  ragged  staples  of  the  gate. 
Why  she  should  not  have  promenaded  gently  and  quietly  round, 
instead  of  through,  this  gristy  barrier  of  rock,  goodness  onl/ knows 
however,  willful  and  womanlike,  she  has  set  her  heart  upon  an 
apparent  impossibility,  and,  as  usual  with  her  sex  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, she  has  had  her  way.    Sermons  in  stones— I  would 
humbly  suggest  to  my  gender. 

Procrastination  once  rnore  stole  my  chance;  I  had  reserved 
myself  for  sketching  the  Devil's  Gate  from  the  southwest,  but  the 
station  proved  too  distant  to  convoy  a  just  idea  of  it  For  the 
truest  representation  of  the  gate,  the  curious  reader  will  refer  to 
the  artistic  work  of  Mr.  Frederick  Piercy;*  that  published  in  Cap- 
tain Marcy  s  "List  of  Itineraries"  is  like  any  thing  but  the  Dev- 
ils Gate;  even  the  rough  lithograph  in  Colonel  Frdmont's  report 
IS  more  truthful.  '■ 

We  supped  badly  a&  mankind  well  could  at  the  cabaret,  where 

♦  Route  from  Liverpool  to  Great  Salt  Lako  City. 


41 


i  '.'  *. 


152 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IU. 


a  ver^  plain  young  person,  and  no  neat-lianded  Phyllis  withal, 
supplied  us  with  a  cock  whose  toughness  claimed  for  it  the  hon- 
ors of  grandpaternity.     Chickens  and  eggs  there  were   none; 
butcher's  meat,  of  course,  was  unknown,  and  our  hosts  ignored 
the  name  of  tea ;  their  salt  was  a  kind  of  sftleratus,  and  their  sug- 
ar at  least  half  Indian-meal.    W;v-i'  ,>skcd  .'bout  fish,  they  said 
that  the  Sweetwater  contained  noiii.'ng  but  suckers,"'*'  and  that 
these,  though  good  eating,  can  not  be  caught  with  a  hook.     They 
are  a  quet^r  lot,  these  French  Canadians,  who  have  "located" 
themselves  in  the  Far  West.     Travelers  who  have  hunted  with 
them  speak  highly  of  them  as  a  patient,  submissive,  and  obedient 
race,  inured  to  privations,  and  gifted  with  the  reckless  abandon — 
no  despicable  quality  in  prairie  traveling — of  tl;c  old  uascon  ad- 
venturer ;  armed  and  ever  vigilant,  hardy,  handy,  and  hearty  chil- 
dren of  Nature,  combining  with  the  sagacity  and  the  instinctive 
qualities  all  the  superstitions  of  the  Indians;  enduring  as  mount- 
ain goats;  satisfied  with  a  diet  of  wild  meat,  happiest  when  it 
could  be  followed  by  a  cup  of  strong  milkless  coflee,  a  "cliasse 
cafe"  and  a  "brule-gueule;"  invariably  and  contagiously  merry; 
generous  as  courageous;  handsome,  active,  and  athletic;  sasjied, 
knived,  and  dressed  in  buckskin,  to  the  envy  of  every  Indian 
"  brave,"  and  the  admiration  of  every  Indian  belle,  upon  whom, 
if  the  adventurer's  heart  had  notfaHen  into  the  snares  of  the  more 
attractive  half-breed,  he  would  spend  what  remained  of  his  $10  a 
month,  after  coifee,  alcohol,  and  tobacco  had  been  extravagantly 
paid  for,  in  presents  of  the  gaudiest  trash.     Such  is  the  voyngeur, 
of  books :  I  can  only  speak  of  him  as  I  found  him,  a  lazy  dog, 
somewhat  shy  and  proud,  mucli  addicted  to  loafing  and  to  keep- 
ing cabarets,  because,  as  the  old  phrase  is,  the  cabarets  keep  him 
— in  idleness  too.     Probably  his  good  qualities  lie  below  the  sur- 
face: those  who  hide  a  farthing  rush-light  under  a  bushel  can 
hardly  expect  us,  in  this  railway  age,  to  take  the  trouble  of  find- 
ing it.     I  will  answer,  however,  for  the  fact,  that  the  bad  points 
arc  painfully  prominent.      By  virtue  of  speaking  French  and 
knowing  something  of  Canada,  I  obtained  some  buffalo  robes, 
and  after  a  look  at  the  supper,  v/liich  had  all  the  clfect  of  a  co- 
pious feed,  I  found  a  kind  of  out-house,  and  smoked  till  sleep 
weighed  down  my  eyelids. 

Jlfi  the  Sweelwattr.     l!>//i  A^tgunl. 

We  arose  at  6  A.M.,  before  the  rest  of  the  household,  who,  when 
aroused,  "  hifered"  and  sauntered  about  all  desa'uviis  till  their 
wool-gathering  wits  had  returned.  The  breakfast  wa.*::  a  little  pic- 
ture of  the  supper;  for  watered  milk,  half-baked  bread,  and  un- 
recognizable butter,  we  paid  the  somewliat  "steep"  sum  of  75 
cents ;  we  privily  had  our  grumble,  and  set  out  at  7  A.M.  to  as- 

•  A  common  fish  of  the  j;cnus  Labio,  of  which  thore  nro  many  ppocies — chub, 
mullet,  biirbel,  'lonied  dace,  etc. ;  tlicy  arc  found  in  ulniost  nil  the  lakes  and  livers 
of  North  America. 


Chap.  III.         EATTLESNAKE  HILLS.— "  ALKALI  LAKE." 


153 


cend  the  Valley  of  the  Sweetwater.    The  river-plain  is  bounded 
by  two  parallel  lines  of  hills,  or  rather  rocks,  running  nearly  due 
east  and  west.     Those  to  the  north  are  about  a  hundred  miles  in 
extreme  length,  and,  rising  from  a  great  plateau,  lie  perpendicular 
to  the  direction  of  the  real  Rocky  Mountains  toward  which  they 
}S?^ :  balf  the  course  of  the  Pina  Pa  subtends  their  southern  base 
The  Western  men  know  them  as  the  Rattlesnake  Hills,  while  the 
southern  are  called  after  the  riyer.     The  former— a  continuation 
ot  the  ridge  m  which  the  Sweetwater  has  burst  a  gap— is  one  of 
those  long  lines  of  lumpy,  misshapen,  barren  rock,  that  suggested 
to  the  Canadians  for  the  whole  region  the  name  of  Les  Montagues 
Rocheuses.    In  parts  they  are  primary,  principally  syenite  and 
granite,  with  a  little  gneiss,  but  they  have  often  so  regular  a  line 
ot  cleavage,  perpendicular  as  well  as  horizontal,  that  they  may 
readily  be  mistaken  for  stratifications.     The  stratified  are  slaty 
micaceous  shale  and  red  sandstone,  dipping  northward,  and  cut 
by  quartz  veins  and  trap  dikes.     The  remarkable  feature  m  both 
formations  is  the  rounding  of  the  ridges  or  blocks  of  smooth  na- 
ked granite :  hardly  any  angles  appeared ;  the  general  efiect  was, 
that  they  had  been  water-washed  immediately  after  birth     The 
upper  portions  of  this  range  shelter  the  bighorn,  or  American 
moufflon,  and  the  cougar,*  the  grizzly  bear,  and  the  wolf     The 
southern  or  Sweetwater  range  is  vulgarly  known  as  the  Green- 
River  Mountains :  seen  from  the  road,  their  naked,  barren,  and 
sandy  flanks  appear  within  cannon  shot,  but  they  are  distant 
,  seven  miles. 

After  a  four-miles'  drive  up  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  little 
nver-nymph,  to  whom  the  grisly  hills  formed  an  effective  foil 
we  saw  on  the  south  of  the  road  "Alkali  Lake,"  another  of  the 
Irona  formations  with  which  we  were  about  to  become  familiar- 
m  the  full  glare  of  burning  day  it  was  undistinguishable  as  to  the 
surface  from  the  round  pond  in  Hyde  Park.  Presently  ascend- 
ing a  little  nse,  we  were  shown  for  the  first  time  a  real  bit  of  the 
far-tamed  Rocky  Mountains,  which  was  hardly  to  be  distinguished 
from,  except  by  a  shade  of  solidity,  the  fleecy  sunlit  clouds  rest- 
ing upon  the  horizon:  it  waa  Fremont's  Peak,  the  sharp,  snow- 
clad  apex  of  the  Wind  River  range.  Behind  us  and  afar  rose 
the  distant  heads  of  black  hills.  The  valley  was  charming  with 
Its  bright  glad  green,  a  tapestry  of  flowery  grass,  willow  copses 
where  the  grouse  ran  in  and  out,  and  long  lines  of  aspen,  beech, 
and  cotton-wood,  while  pin  and  cedar,  cypress  and  scattered  ever- 
greens, crept  up  the  cranks  and  crannies  of  the  rocks.  In  the 
midst  of  this  Firdaus— so  it  appeared  to  us  after  the  horrid  un- 
withering  artemisia  Jehennum  of  last  week— flowed  the  lovely 

♦  Locally  cillod  the  monntain  lion.  This  animal  (F.  micohr)  is  tlie  largest  and 
fiercest  feline  ..f  tiic  New  World  :  it  is  a  InMist  of  many  namcs-,,uma,  conRar,  Amer- 
icnn  li()n  panther  or  jniiiiter,  etc.  Its  hul.it  of  npringinR  npon  its  prey  from  treea 
makes  it  feared  by  hunters.     It  was  once  in  the  Kaatskills. 


154 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IU. 


little  stream,  transparent  as  crystal,  and  coquettishly  changing 
from  side  to  side  in  her  bed  of  golden  sand.  To  see  her  tamely 
submit  to  being  confined  within  those  dwarf  earthen  cliffs,  you 
would  not  have  known  her  to  be  the  same  that  had  made  that 
terrible  breach  in  the  rock- wall  below.  "  Varium  et  mutabile 
semper,"  etc. :  I  will  not  conclude  the  quotation,  but  simply  re- 
mark that  the  voyageurs  have  caPed  her  "She."  And  every 
where,  in  contrast  with  the  deep  verdure  and  the  bright  flowers 
of  the  valley,  rose  the  stern  forms  of  the  frowning  rocks,  some 
apparently  hanging  as  though  threatening  a  fall,  others  balanced 
upon  the  slenderest  foundations,  all  split  and  broken  as  though 
earthquake-riven,  loosely  piled  into  strange  figures,  the  lion  couch- 
ant,  sugar-loaf,  tortoise,  and  armadillo  —  not  a  mile,  in  fact,  was 
without  its  totem. 

The  road  was  good,  especially  when  hardened  by  frost.  We 
are  now  in  altitudes  where,  as  m  Tibet,  parts  of  the  country  ^r 
long  centuries  never  thaw.  After  passing  a  singular  stone  bluff 
on  the  left  of  the  road,  we  met  a  party  of  discharged  soldiers, 
who  were  traveling  eastward  comfortably  enough  in  government 
wagons  drawn  by  six  mules.  Not  a  man  saluted  Lieutenant 
Dana,  though  he  was  in  uniform,  and  all  looked  surly  as  Indians 
after  a  scalpless  raid.  Speeding  merrily  along,  we  were  shown 
on  the  right  of  the  road  a  ranch  belonging  to  a  Canadian,  a 
''mighty  mean  man,"  said  the  driver,  "who  onst  gin  me  ole 
mare's  meat  for  b'ar."  We  were  much  shocked  by  this  instance 
of  the  awful  depravity  of  the  unregenerate  human  heart,  but  our 
melancholy  musings  were  presently  interrupted  by  the  same 
youth,  who  pointed  out  on  the  other  side  of  the  path  a  mass  of 
clay  (conglomerate,  I  presume),  called  the  Devil's  Post-office.  It 
has  been  lately  washed  with  rains  so  copious  that  half  the  edifice 
lies  at  the  base  of  that  which  is  standing.  The  structure  is  not 
large:  it  is  highly  satisfactory — especially  to  a  man  who  in  this 
life  has  suffered  severely,  as  the  Anglo-Indian  ever  must  from 
endless  oflicial  and  semi-ofl3.cial  correspondence — to  remark  that 
the  London  Post-office  is  about  double  its  size. 

Beyond  the  Post-ofllice  was  another  ranch  belonging  to  a  Por- 
tuguese named  Luis  Silva,  married  to  an  Englishwoman  who  had 
deserted  the  Salt  Lake  Saints.  We  "staid  a  piece"  there,  but 
found  few  inducements  to  waste  our  time.  Moreover,  we  had 
heard  from  afar  of  an  "ole  'ooman,"  an  Englishwoman,  a  Miss 
Moore — Miss  is  still  used  for  Mi-s.  by  Western  men  and  negroes 
— celebrated  for  cleanliness,  tidiness,  civility,  and  housewifery  in 
general,  and  wc  were  anxious  to  get  rid  of  the  evil  flavor  of  Ca- 
nadians, squaws,  and  "  ladies." 

At  11  A.M.  we  reached  "Three  Crossings,"  when  we  found  the 
"miss"  a  stout,  active,  middle-aged  matron,  deserving  of  all  the 
praises  that  had  so  liberally  been  bestowed  upon  her.  The  little 
ranch  was  neatly  swept  and  garnished,  papered  and  ornamented. 


Chap.  III. 


MISS  MOORE  AND  HER  HUSBAND. 


155 


The  skull  of  a  full-grown,  bighorn  hanging  over  the  doorway 
represented  the  spoils  of  a  stag  of  twelve.     The  table-cloth  was 
clean,  so  was  the  cooking,  so  were  the  children ;  and  I  was  re- 
minded of  Europe  by  the  way  in  which  she  insisted  upon  wash- 
ing my  shirt,  an  operation  which,  after  leaving  the  Missouri,  qa 
va  sans  dire^  had  fallen  to  my  own  lot.    In  fact,  this  day  intro- 
duced me  to  the  third  novel  sensation  experienced  on  the  west- 
ern side  of  the  Atlantic.     The  first  is  to  feel  (practically)  that  all 
men  are  equal ;  that  you  are  no  man's  superior,  and  that  no  man 
is  yours.     The  second — this  is  spoken  as  an  African  wanderer — 
to  see  one's  quondam  acquaintance,  the  Kaffir,  laying  by  his  grass 
kilt  and  coat  of  grease,  invest  himself  in  broadcloth,  part  his  wool 
on  one  side,  shave  what  pile  nature  has  scattered  upon  his  upper 
lip,  chin,  and  cheeks  below  a  line  drawn  from  the  ear  to  the 
mouth-corner  after  the  fashion  of  the  times  when  George  the 
Third  was  king,  and  call  himself,  not  Sambo,  but  Mr.  Scott.    The 
third  was  my  meeting  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  with  this  refresh- 
ing specimen  of  that  far  Old  World,  where,  on  the  whole,  society 
still  lies  in  strata,  as  originally  deposited,  distinct,  sharply  de- 
fined, and  rarely  displaced,  except  by  some  violent  upheaval  from 
below,  which,  however,  never  succeeds  long  in  producing  total 
inversion.    Miss  Moore's  husband,  a  decent  appendage,  had  trans- 
ferred his  belief  from  the  Church  of  England  to  the  Church  of 
Utah,  and  the  good  wife,  as  in  duty  bound,  had  followed  in  his 
■wake  whom  she  was  bound  to  love,  honor,  and  obey.    But  when 
,  the  serpent  came  and  whispered  in  Miss  Moore's  modest,  respect- 
able, one-idea'd  ear  that  the  Abrahams  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City 
are  mere  "sham  Abrams"— that,  not  content  with  Sarahs,  they  add 
to  them  an  unlimited  supply  of  Hagars,  then  did  our  stout  En 
glish woman's  power  of  endurance  break  down  never  to  rise  again 
"Not  an  inch  would  she  budge;"  not  a  step  toward  Utah  Terri 
tory  would  she  take.     She  fought  pluckily  against  the  impend 
ing  misfortune,  and— d  qiielque  chose  malheur  est  hon  .'—she  suc- 
ceeded in  reducing  her  husband  to  that  state  which  is  typified  by 
the  wife  using  certain  portions  of  the  opposite  sex's  wardrobe, 
and  in  making  him  make  a  good  livelihood  as  station-master  on 
the  wagon-line. 

After  a  copious  breakfast,  which  broke  the  fast  of  the  four  days 
that  had  dragged  on  since  our  civilized  refection  at  Fort  Lara- 
mie, we  spread  our  buflfalos  and  water-proofs  under  the  ample 
eaves  of  the  ranch,  and  spent  the  dajr  in  taking  time  with  the 
sextant— every  watch  being  wrong— in  snoozing,  dozing,  chat- 
ting, smoking,  and  contemplating  the  novel  view.  Straight  be- 
fore us  rose  the  Sattiesnakc  Hills,  a  nude  and  grim  horizon, 
frowning  over  the  soft  and  placid  scene  below,  while  at  their  feet 
flowed  the  little  Twcr—splmdidior  vtYra— purling  over  its  pebbly 
bed  with  graceful  meanderings  through  clover  prairillons  and 
garden-spots  full  of  wild  currants,  strawberries,  gooseberries,  and 


m 

!•: 

W§ 

t 

^ 

' 

i 

k       ' 

1 

156 


THE  7ITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


rattlesnakes ;  while,  contrasting  with  the  green  River  Valley  and 
the  scorched  and  tawny  rock-wall,  patches  of  saad-hill,  raised  by 
the  winds,  here  and  there  cumbered  the  ground.  The  variety, 
of  the  scene  was  much  enhanced  by  the  changeful  skies.  The 
fine  breeze  which  had  set  in  at  8  A.M.  had  died  in  the  attempt 
to  thread  these  heat-refracting  ridges,  and  vapory  clouds,  subli- 
mated by  the  burning  sun,  floated  lazily  in  the  empyrean,  casting 
fitful  shadows  that  now  intercepted,  then  admitted,  a  blinding 
glare  upon  the  mazy  stream  and  its  rough  cradle. 

Jfi.  the  evening  we  bathed  in  the  shallow  bed  of  the  Sweet- 
water.    It  is  vain  to  caution  travelers  against  this  imprudence. 
Video  meliora  proboque — it  is  doubtless  unwise — but  it  is  also  mera 
stultitia  to  say  to  men  who  have  not  enjoyed  ablutions  for  a  week 
or  ten  days,  "If  you  do  take  that  delicious  dip  you  may  possibly 
catch  fever."    Jkteriora  sequor — bathed.     Miss  Moore  warned  us 
strongly  against  the  rattlesnakes,  and  during  our  walk  wo  care- 
fully observed  the  Indian  rule,  to  tread  upon  the  log  and  not  to 
ovei^tep  it.    The  crotalus,  I  need  hardly  say,  like  other  snakes, 
is  fond  of  lurking  under  the  shade  of  fallen  or  felled  trunks,  and 
when  a  heel  or  a  leg  is  temptingly  set  before  it,  it  is  not  the  beast 
to  refuse  a  bite.     Accidents  arc  very  common,  despite  all  precau- 
tions, upon  this  line,  but  they  seldom,  I  believe,  piove  fatal.    The 
remedies  arc  almost  endless:  e.g.,  hartshorn,  used  externally  and 
drunk  in  dilution;  scarification  and  irrumation  of  the  part,  pre- 
ceded, of  course,  by  a  ligature  between  the  limb  and  the  heart; 
application  of  the  incised  brea.st  of  a  live  fowl  or  frog  to  the  wound; 
the  dried  and  powdered  blood  of  turtle,  of  this  two  pinches  to  bo 
Kwallowed  and  a  little  dropped  u])on  tlio  place  bitten ;  a  plaster 
of  chewed  or  wa.shcd  plantain-leaves — it  is  cooling  enough,  but 
can  do  little  more^ — bound  upon  the  puncture,  peppered  with  a 
little  finely- powdered  tobacco;  pulverized  indigo  made  into  a 

f)oultico  with  water;  cauterization  by  gunpowder,  hot  nov  or 
unar  cau.stic;  ccdron,  a  nut  growing  "on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama 
—of  this  remedy  I  hoard,  in  loco,  the  most  wondeiful  accounts, 
d^Ing  men  boing  restored,  aa  if  by  magic,  after  a  bit  about  the 
size  of  a  bean  had  Ik-cu  j)laced  in  tlieii:  mouths.  Aa  will  be  seen 
below,  the  land  is  rich  in  snakcroots,  but  the  superstitious  snake- 
stone  of  Ilindostan— which  acts,  if  it  does  net,  ns  an  absorbent  of 
the  virus  by  capillary  attraction— is  apparently  unknown.  The 
favorit«3  remedy  now  in  the  United  States  is  tlic  "  whisky  cure," 
which,  under  the  form  of  arrack,  combined  in  the  case  of  a  scor- 
nion-sting  with  a  [)oultico  of  chewed  toba('(;o,  was  known  for  the 
last  fifty  years  to  the  British  soldier  in  India.  It  has  the  ndvin- 
tago  of  being  a  palatable  medicine;  it  must  also  bo  taken  in  largo 
quantities,  a  counle  of  InHtles  sometimes  producing  little  effect. 
With  the  ligliteil  end  of  a  cigar  apjdicd  as  moxa  to  the  wound,  a 
quaiilHi'i  sujficH  of  ardent  spirits,  a  couple  of  men  to  make  mo 
walk  about  'vhcn  drowsy  by  the  application  of  a  stick,  and,  abovo 


Chap.  IIL 


A  HUBBUB.— "YES,  SUEBI" 


157 


all,  with  the  senous  resolution  not  to  do  any  thing  so  mean  as  to 
^leap  the  twig,"  I  should  not  be  afraid  of  any  snake  yet  created 
The  only  proviso  is  that  our  old  enemy  must  not  touch  an  artery' 
and  that  the  remedies  must  be  at  hand.  Fifteen  minutes  lost  vou 
are  "  down  among  the  dead  men ."  The  history  of  fatal  cases  al- 
ways shows  some  delay.* 

We  supped  in  the  evening  merrily.  It  was  the  best  coffee  we 
had  tasted  since  leaving  New  Orleans;  the  cream  was  excellent 
so  was  the  cheese.  But  an  antelope  had  unfortunately  been 
brought  in ;  we  had  insisted  upon  a  fry  of  newly-killed  flesh 
^  4f -f  ^^P^^te^  i^  t^e  morning,  and  we  had  bitterly  to  regret 
It  W  hile  I  was  amusing  myself  by  attempting  to  observe  an  im- 
mersion of  Jupiter's  satellites  with  a  notable  failure  in  the  shape 
ot  that  snare  and  delusion,  a  portable  telescope,  suddenly  there 
arose  a  terrible  hubbub.  For  a  moment  it  was  believed  that  the 
crotalus  horndus  had  been  taking  liberties  with  one  of  Miss 
Moore  s  progeny.  The  seat  of  pain,  however,  soon  removed  the 
alarming  suspicion,  and— the  rattlesnake  seldom  does  damage  at 
night— we  soon  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  dear  little  fellow 
who  boo-hoo  d  for  forty  had  been  bitten  by  a  musqueto  somewhat 
bigger  than  its  fellows.  The  poor  mother  soon  was  restored  to 
her  habits  of  happiness  and  hard  labor.  Not  contented  with  sup- 
porting her  own  family,  she  was  doing  supererogation  by  feeding 
a  little  rat-eyed,  snub-nosed,  shark-mouthed  half-breed  girl,  who 
was,  I  believe,  in  the  market  as  a  "chattel."  Mrs.  Dana  pointed 
out  to  me  one  sign  of  demoralization  on  the  part  of  Miss  Moore 
It  was  so  microscopic  that  only  a  woman's  acute  eye  could  detect 
It.  Miss  Moore  waa  teaching  her  children  to  say  '  /es  surrl"  to 
every  driver. 

■nT-..,  ,        .  .      ,       .    To  the  Foot  of  South  Pass.     \9th  Amust. 

Witb  renewed  spirit,  despite  a  somewhat  hard  struggle  with 
the  musquctoes,  we  set  out  at  thi  .vspectablo  hour  of  5  45  A  M 
Wo  had  breakfasted  comfortably,  and  an  interesting  country  lay 
belorc  us.  Ihe  mules  seemed  to  share  in  our  gaycty.  Despite 
a  long  ringing,  the  amiable  animals  kicked  and  bit,  bucked  and 
backed,  till  their  recalcitrances  Lad  almost  deposited  us  in  the 
first  ford  ot  the  Sweetwater.  For  this,  however,  wo  were  amply 
consoled  by  the  greater  misfortunes  of  our  consort,  the  official 
wagon.  After  long  luxuriating  in  the  pick  of  the  teams,  they 
were  to-day  so  thoroughly  badly  "muled"  that  they  were  coni- 
pellec'  to  apply  for  our  assistance. 

Wo  forded  the  river  twice  within  fifty  yards,  and  wo  recog- 
nized with  sensiljle  pleasure  a  homely-looking  magpie  {Pica  Hud- 

*  The  nutho:  of  "  Tho  Qtmilroon"  (rhap.  xxxli.,  etc.)  nd.Iuprs  a  htt|.py  InsUnce  of 
a  tipro  who,  after  a  delBy  and  an  amount  of  exertion  whi<!!  •'••rtainiy  wocUl  have 
cost  him  hU  lif^  was  r.-li,.v(ul  hy  toJmcco  and  ciut>d  by  tho  (.niikor«H)i(  Mi/vm/,,  Stn*. 
go).  h(>  popular  Hniik.Tootn  quoted  hy  Mr.  Bartlctt  aro  tho  8»'nooa  Miak.'nKit  ahovn 
Hhidnd  to,  th»  hiark  Fnakcroot  (Cimici/uga  raccmoai),  and  tho  Virginia  inakrroot 
{^Arutolochui  »erj)tnlana). 


■imm  f^i^'fn^" 


158 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  Ill, 


sonica),  and  a  rattlesnake,  not  inappropriately,  considering  where 
we  were,  crossed  the  road.  Our  path  lay  between  two  rocky 
ridges,  which  gradually  closed  inward,  forming  a  regular  kanyon, 
quite  shutting  out  the  view.  On  both  sides  white  and  micaceous 
granite  towered  to  the  height  of  300  or  400  feet,  terminating  in 
jagged  and  pointed  peaks,  whose  partial  disruption  covered  the 
angle  at  their  base.  Arrived  at  Ford  No.  6,  we  began  an  ascent, 
and  reaching  the  summit,  halted  to  enjoy  the  Bne  back  view  of 
the  split  and  crevassed  mountain??. 

A  waterless  and  grassless  track  of  fifteen  to  sixteen  miles  led 
ua  to  a  well-known  place — the  Ice  Springs — of  which,  somewhat 
unnecessarily,  a  marvel  is  made.  The  ground,  which  lies  on  the 
right  of  the  road,  is  a  long  and  swampy  trough  between  two 
waves  of  land  which  permit  the  humidity  to  drain  down,  and  the 
grass  is  discolored,  suggesting  the  presence  of  alkali.  After  dig- 
ging about  two  feet,  ice  is  found  in  small  fragments.  Its  pres- 
ence, even  in  the  hottest  seasons,  may  be  leadily  accounted  for  by 
the  fact  that  hereabouts  water  will  freeze  in  a  tent  during  Ju.'y, 
and  by  the  depth  to  which  the  wintry  frost  extends.  Upon  the 
same  ])rinciple,  snow  gathering  in  mountain  ravines  and  hollows 
long  outlasts  the  shallower  dcposiu?.  A  little  beyond  Ice  Springs, 
on  the  opposite  side  of,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from 
the  road,  lie  the  Warm  Springs,  one  of  the  many  alkaline  pans 
which  lie  scattered  over  the  face  of  the  country.  From  the  road 
nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  a  deep  cunetto  full  of  pcrcclated  water. 

Beyond  the  Warm  Springs  Jay  a  hopeless-looking  land,  a  vast 
slope,  barren  and  desolate  as  Nature  could  well  make  it.  The 
loose  sands  and  the  granite  masses  of  the  valley  liad  disappeared; 
the  surface  wiis  a  thin  coat  of  hard  gravelly  soil.  Some  mo.sses, 
a  .scanty  yellow  grass,  and  the  dark  gray  artemisia,  now  stunted 
and  shrunk,  were  sj)arsely  scattered  about.  It  had  already  begun 
to  give  way  before  an  even  hardier  creation,  the  rabbit-bush  and 
the  grea.sewood.  The  former,  wliich  swms  to  thrive  under  tho 
wintry  snow,  is  a  favorite  food  witli  hares,  which  abound  in  this 
region ;  the  latter  ( ^>/'^'«^,  (5r  Atriplex.  cancscais,  the  chamizo  of  tho 
Mexicans)  derives  its  name  from  tlio  oleaginous  matter  abundant 
in  its  wood,  and  is  always  a  wign  of  a  poor  and  sterile  soil. 
Avoiding  a  steep  descent  by  a  sliortcr  road,  called  "  Landers'  Cut- 
ofl',"  we  again  came  noon  the  Sweetwater,  which  wa.s  her"  soinc- 
wliat  broader  tliaii  below,  and  lighti-d  upon  good  gra.ss  1  un- 
derbrush, willow  copses,  and  a  fair  halting-plucc.  At  Fonl  No.  6 
three  followed  one  another  in  rapid  succe8.sion — we  found  the 
eatflo  of  a  traveling  trader  scattered  over  tho  pasture-grounds. 
He  proved  to  be  nn  Italian  driv(Mi  from  the  low  country  by  a 
band  of  Sionx,  who  had  slain  his  Shoshonce  wife,  and  at  one  timo 
had  thought  of  adding  his  scalp  to  his  squaw's.  After  Ford  No.  8, 
a  camping-grounti,  usually  called  in  guide-books 
nd  Stream."    Tho  Sweetwater  is  hero  twcnty-flvo 


wo  came  upon 
"Kiver  Rank  an 


Chap.  III.    TEMPERATURE.^FIRST  COME,  FIRST  SERVED.  159 

feet  wide.  About  three  miles  beyond  it  lay  the  "  Foot  of  Ridjre 
Station  "  near  a  willowv  creek,  called  from  its  principal  inhabi- 
tants the  Muskrat.*  The  ridge  from  which  it  derives  its  name  is 
a  band  of  stone  that  will  cross  the  road  during  to-morrow's  ascent 
Being  a  frontier  place,  it  is  a  favorite  camping-ground  with  In- 
dians, lo-day  a  war  party  of  Sioux  rode  in,  en  route  to  provide 
themselves  with  a  few  Shoshonee  scalps. 

We  made  a  decided  rise  to-day,  and  stood  at  least  6000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  altitude  of  St.  Louis  being  in 
round  tiumbers  500  feet,  and  reckoning  the  diminution  of  temper- 
ature at  1  1^  =  100  yards,  we  arc  already  19°  to  20°  F.  colder 
than  before.  The  severity  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  rapid  evap- 
oration Irom  the  earth  cause  an  increase  of  frigidity,  to  which  the 
salts  and  nitrates  upon  the  surface  of  tlie  soil,  by  absorbing  the 
hydrogen  of  the  atmosphere  —  as  is  shown  by  the  dampness  of 
the  ground  and  the  absence  of  dust  around  the  Saleratus  Lakes-- 
greatly  add.  Another  remark  made  by  every  traveler  in  these 
regions  is  the  marked  influence  upon  the  temperature  caused  bv 
the  presence  and  the  absence  of  the  sun.  The  day  will  be  sultrv 
and  oppressive  and  a  fire  will  bo  required  at  night.  In  the  morn- 
^."?>'^r  ,'  11  A.M.,  the  thermometer  sliowed  80°  Fahrenheit-  at 
4  F.M  the  sky  being  clouded  over,  it  fell  25°;  before  dawn  af- 
fected by  the  cold  north  wind  from  the  snows  about  the  Pass  it 
stood  at  40°.  ' 

The  lowering  firmar.icnt  tlireatcncd  rain,  of  which,  however 
the  thirsty  land  was  disappointed.  Moreover,  all  were  agreed  that 
snow  was  to  be  expected  in  another  fortnight,  if  not  sooner  Gla- 
cial storms  occasionally  occur  in  July  and  August,  so  that  in  some 
years  the  land  may  bo  said  to  have  no  summer.  In  winter  the 
sharpness  of  the  cold  is  such  tliat  it  can  be  kept  out  only  by 
clothes  of  the  closest  texture;  the  mountain-men,  like  tlie  Esqui- 
maux, prefer  to  clothe  themselves  cap-a-piCs  in  the  prepared  skins 
of  animals.  AVo  were  all  animated  with  a  nervous  desire  for 
travel  but  there  was  tlio  rub.  The  station-master  dcchired  that 
lie  luid  no  driver,  no  authority  to  forward  two  wagonsful,  and  no 
cattle;  consequently,  tliat  tlie  last  comers  must  bo  last  served  and 
wait  i)atiently  at  Kock^  lliilgo  till  they  could  bo  sent  on.  They 
would  find  antelopes  in  plenty,  perhaps  a  grixzlv,  and  plenty  of 
plover  crows,  and  delicate  little  ground-squirrols^  by  the  burrow- 
ful,  to  '  kecj)  their  hands  in."  We  being  the  fu-st  comers,  a  title 
to  preferenco  rarely  disput(-d  in  this  law-and-rule-abiding  land 
prudently  held  ourselves  aloof.    The  Judiciary,  however,  waa 

♦  Fil^r  !ihenn,»,  ,,  iK-nvor-likp   nnimnl  tlint  inlml.itH  Hie  l,,,nk«  of  i.nn(l«  nnd 

t  1  imd  no  nppor(nnit>-«f  olwonrlnK  tl,i«  clonn.  preftr.  nnd  vlvmio,,,  li,,'.,  „„!,„„! 

prrio*  fr...n  .1,0  ,  n.nnu.n  »tri|.,..l  nn.l  .,...,,,.,1  ,,rairic-s.  uirnl  {S.H'rmUiCtrSt 
UwatH,),  or  tho  chij.i.ionk  or  tlii|.muk  {s  *trmt„»).  w        / ""«« irearctm. 


i    Jrii 


160 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


sorely  "exercised."  Being  a  "professor,"  that  is,  a  serious  per- 
son, he  could  not  relieve  his  mind  by  certain  little  moyens  which 
naturally  occurred  to  the  rest  of  the  party.  Many  and  protracted 
were  the  powwows  that  took  place  on  this  momentous  occasion. 
Sometimes  our  quondam  companions — we  now  looked  upon  them 
as  friends  lost  to  us — would  mysteriously  disappear  as  though  the 
earth  had  opened  and  swallowed  them,  and  presently  they  would 
return  with  woe-begone  step  and  the  wrinkled  brow  of  care  sim- 
ulating an  ease  which  they  were  far  from  feeling. 

The  station  rather  added  to  than  took  from  our  discomfort :  it 
was  a  terrible  unclean  hole ;  milk  was  not  procurable  within  thir- 
ty-five miles ;  one  of  the  officials  was  suffering  sorely  from  a  stom- 
ach-ache; there  was  no  sugar,  and  the  cooking  was  atrocious, 
"With  a  stray  title-pagelesa  volume  of  some  natural  history  of 
America,  and  another  of  agricultural  reports — in  those  days,  before 
reform  came,  these  scientific  and  highly  elaborate  compositions 
neatly  printed  and  exnensively  got  up  at  the  public  expense,  were 
apparently  distributed  to  every  ranch  and  station  in  the  line  of 
road— I  worked  through  the  long  and  tedious  afternoon.     We 
were  not  sorry  when  the  night  came,  but  then  the  floor  was  knob- 
by, the  musquetoes  seemed  rath(.>r  to  enjoy  the  cold,  and  the  banks 
swarmed  with  "chinches."*    The  coyotes  and  wolves  made  night 
vocal  with  their  choruses,  and  had  nearly  caused  an  accident. 
One  of  the  station-men  arose,  and,  having  a  bone  to  pick  with  the 
animals  for  having  robbed  his  beef-barrel,  cocked  his  revolver, 
and  was  upon  the  point  of  firing,  when  the  object  aimed  at  started 
up  and  cried  out  m  the  nick  of  time  that  ho  was  a  federal  mar- 
shal, not  a  wolf. 

■r^  •  1      ,       1      ,         ,  To  the.  South  Pass.     Atirjttst  2(ith. 

Wo  rosn  with  the  daybreak;  wo  did  not  start  till  nearly  8  A.M. 
the  interim  having  been  consumed  by  the  tenants  of  our  late  con- 
sort  in  a  vain  palaver.  Wc  bade  adieu  to  them  and  mounted  at 
hist,  loudly  pitying  their  miseries  as  th(>y  diKapj)eared  from  our 
ken.  But  the  driver  bade  us  reserve  our  sympathy  and  humane 
expressions  for  a  more  fitting  occasion,  and  (leclarccl— it  was  prob- 
ably a  ittle  effort  of  his  own  imagination— that  those  faithless 
Iriends  had  spent  all  their  spare  time  in  persuading  him  to  take 
them  on  and  to  leave  ns  behind.  ],  for  one,  will  never  believe 
that  any  thing  of  the  kind  had  been  attempted;  a  man  must  bo 
creutcd  with  a  toUil  absence  of  the  bowels  of  compassion  who 
would  leave  a  woman  and  a  young  child  for  days  togctlicr  at  the 
foot  of  Itidgc  Station. 

Thc^  road  at  once  struck  away  from  the  Sweetwater,  winding 
up  and  down  rugged  hills  and  broken  hollows.     J<Vom  Fort  Lara- 

•  The  rliimh  or  <hint«  i-  fl.p  S;mniKl.  rhmhf-t\w  popular  worl  for  Uic  drntx 
/.•rt«*,r.«,  m  .ho  Smtliorn  Sinto.,  I„  ,>,l„.r  p„rtH  oft!,..  U„iir.l  Stntrs  the  Kn^li.h 
I..IK  U  ri,llo,|  a  lK-<l..„p:  without  th,.  pr..flx  it  in  npplied  to  beetle*  nnd  «  raric-ty  of 
C  olpoptpr*,  US  tin-  Miiv-hug,  .hinc-buK,  KoMcii  hnp,  ttc. 


Chap.  UI.  WILLOW  CREEK. -SOUTH-PASS  CITY.  i  g, 

mie  the  land  is  all  a  sandy  and  hilly  desert  where  one  can  easily 
starve,  but  here  it  shows  its  worst  features.    During  a  steepde^ 

TmLl       %^  '  ""f  T  '^^^  ™"^'  *^  ^^g^'«  it«  footing  Sout 
difficulty.     Signs  of  wolves,  coyotes,  and  badgers  were  abundTt 

and  the  coqs  de  prame  (sage-chickens),  still  young  and  toothsome 

at  this  season,  were  at  no  pains  to  get  out  of  sh?t.    After  aboJt 

five  miles  we  passed  by  "^hree  Lakes,"  dirty  little  ponds  nortl 

of  the  road,  two  near  it  and  one  distant,  all  /bout  a  quarter  of  a 

mile  apart,  and  said  by  those  fond  of  tasting  strange  thini  to  hav« 

somewhat  the  flavor,  as  they  certainly  have^the  semblance  of  soan- 

suds     Beyond  this  point  we  crossed  a  number  of  influents  of  t?e 

pretty  Sweetwater,  some  dry,  others  full :  the  most  interes  tn°  was 

Strawberry  Creek:  it  supplies  plenty  of  the  fragrant  wi Id  fruft 

"divTckalitv'^  't  ^,t-^f-g«  '^^  Y  ''  ^°"g  -  it  -^'i-^ 
naividuality.    lo  the  north  a  mass  of  purple  nimbus  obscured 

the  mountains-on  Frdmont's  Peak  it  is  sai'd  always  to  rain  or 
snow-and  left  no  vis  ble  line  between  earth  and  ski     Qua  dn^- 
Asp  Creek  was  bone  dry.    At  MacAchran's  Branch^of  the  Sweel 
water  we  found,  pitched  upon  a  sward  near  a  willow  copse  a  Pro- 
ven5al  I  rcnchman-bv  what  "hasard  que  Ics  sceptiquesTppellent 
1  homme  d'affiures  du  bon  Dieu"  did  he  come  here  ?lwh?Ced 
us  to  stop  and  give  h?m  the  news,  especially  about  the  Indfans 
we  could  say  little  that  was  reassuring.     Another  sue  1  of  ronaV." 
steep  ground  placed  us  at  Willow  Crc?k,  a  prX  1  tU  \3rliri ll?n' 
with  verdure,  water,  and  an  abundance  of  tiie  larger  veS  on' 
S.T  J't  °;i'  '^'''  ^""S  .^ccustomed  to  artemi^a  S  rabbTt! 
bush  c  we    with  a  compound  sense  of  surprise  and  pleasure     In 
a  well-built  ranch  at  this  place  of  plenty  \TCrc  two  Camdi  m  (mTl 
ers,  apparently  settled  for  life;  they  su^^pli  ^us^.    we  fo^nd  it" 
necessary  to  'liquor  up  "  with  a  wlisk/kieh  did  ,107^^1  u 
and  that  is  about  all  that  I  can  say  for  it.     At  Ford  No  ^  wd 
bade  adieu  to  the  Sweetwater  with  that  natural  regret \viadi  one 
foe  s  when  osmg  s.ght  of  the  only  pretty  face  and  plel^nMl'rn 
n  the  neighborhoocl;  and  wo  heard  with  a  melai  chol v  Sac 
tion  the  drivers  tribute  to  departing  worth,  viz.,  tlS^ts  unner 
course  is    he  "healthiest  water  in  tlfc  world  "    Near    Ss      ot 
s.nce  my  departure,  has  been  founded  "South-Pass  c'ty  "  one  of 
he  many  mushroom  growths  wiiieli  the  presence  of  idd  i    the 
Kocky  Mountiiuis  has  caused  to  sprinrr  up  ^ 

Ten  milcH  beyond  Ford  No.  0,  hilfy  miles,  ending  in  a  lomr 
champaign  having  some  of  the  eharaeteristics  of  a  roUim^  nr3 
m  1  scatters  o  white,  rose,  and  smoky  quart.,  granite,  r"nlSe' 
no  phyry,  mavble-hko  ime,  sandstone,  and  Inica  slate-the  two 
latter  cropping  out  of  the  ground  .u.l  '"nrming  rocky  ridr  ei-lo 

:^cuho*iMdfie  ^if'ri^  ^--:-^j«w.  iStweeif  theis;^;;^ 

ant  the  I  .leific  and  the  frontier  po  Mrg  between  the  territory  of 
Nobraska  an<  he  State  of  Orego,,  (-Vom  the  mouth  of  tJe  Sweet- 
water, about  120  mile.,  wo  have  been  rising  so  gradually'  a  W 


?»'  '    I'l 


'  ■?:! 


I , 


•i-i- 


162 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


imperceptibly,  that  now  we  unexpectedly  find  ourselves  upon  the 
summit.  The  distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  320  miles,  from  St. 
Louis  1580,  and  from  the  mouth  of  the  Oregon  about  1400 :  it  is 
therefore  nearly  midway  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific. 
The  dimensions  of  this  memorial  spot  are  7490  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  20  miles  in  breadth.  The  last  part  of  the  ascent  is  so 
gentle  that  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  the  exact  point  where  the 
versant  lies :  a  stony  band  crossing  the  road  on  the  ridge  of  the 
table-land  is  pointed  out  as  the  place,  and  the  position  has  been 
fixed  at  N.  lat.  48°  19',  jmd  W.  long.  108°  40'.*  The  northern 
limit  is  the  noble  chain  oT  Les  Montagnes  Eocheuses,  which  goes 
by  the  name  of  the  Wind  Kiver;  the  southern  is  called  Table 
Mountain,  an  insignificant  mass  of  low  hills. 

A  pass  it  is  not :  it  has  some  of  the  features  of  Thermopylte  or 
the  Gorge  of  Killiecrankie ;  of  the  European  S^Bernard  or  Sim- 
plon ;  of  the  Alleghany  Passes  or  of  the  Mexican  Barrancas.  It 
is  not,  as  it  sounds,  a  ghaut  between  lofty  mountains,  or,  as  the 
traveler  may  expect,  a  giant  gateway,  upening  through  Cyclopean 
walls  of  beetling  rocks  that  rise  in  forbidding  grandeur  as  he  pass- 
es onward  to  the  Western  continent.  And  yet  the  word  "  Pass" 
has  its  significancy.  In  that  New  World  where  Nature  has  work- 
ed upon  the  largest  scale,  where  every  f(>ature  of  scenery,  river 
and  lake,  swamp  and  forest,  prairie  and  mountain,  dwarf  their  con- 
geners in  the  oil  hemisphere,  this  majestic  level-topped  bluft"  the 
highest  steppe  of  tlic  continent,  unon  whose  iron  surface  tlieic  is 
space  enough  lor  the  armies  of  the  globe  to  march  over,  is  the 
grandest  and  the  most  appropriate  of  avenues. 

A  water-shed  is  always  exciting  to  the  traveler.  What  shall  I 
say  of  this,  where,  on  the  topmost  point  of  American  travel,  you 
drink  witbiii  a  hundred  yards  of  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Pacific  Oceans — that  divides  the  "doorways  of  the  west 
wind"  from  the  "portals  of  the  sunrise?"  On  tl'ic  other  side  of 
yon  throne  of  storms,  within  .^ight,  did  not  the  Sierra  interpose, 
lie  separated  by  a  trivial  space  the  fountain-heads  that  give  birth 
to  tlii!  noblest  rivers  of  the  continent,  the  Columbia,  the  Colorado, 
and  the  Yellow  Stone,  which  is  to  the  Missouri  what  the  Missouri 
is  to  the  Mississippi,  whence  tlic  wiitcrs  trend  to  four  opposite  di- 
rections: the  Wind  liiver  to  the  northeast;  to  the  soutlieast  the 
Sweetwater  and  the  Platte;  the  varioun  branches  of  the  Snake 
River  to  the  northeast;  and  to  the  southwest  the  Ornon  iliver, 
that  finds  its  way  into  the  Californian  Gulf.f    It  is  a  siiq'gostive 

•  Some  Rtiidc-tHHiks  jilnco  tlic  \  fttflr-aliod  lu'twccn  two  mnnll  hills,  tho  *'lVir> 
Pcnks,"  uImuU  flftj'  or  sixty  feut  higii;  tho  raad,  however,  no  Ioniser  iiasapw  bflwcoii 
thcni. 

t  An  c.",r|y  nx  A.D.  1772  fDc^rripfidn  'f  tbo  IVivinoc  of '^iirflnmi,  rlc,  I'lr  .  1<y 
Daniel  Cox)  it  wiis  nHggvuti-tJ  thitt  there  was  ft  lini.'  of  wefir  conimiiiHtau'j'a  liy 
moans  of  thc!  "imrtlium  'irnncii  i«f  the  (m-ivt  Yellow  H|v.  r,  by  tho  nntivcH  <'sileu  tlic 
Uivpr  of  tlu'  Miidsoritct"  (Missouri  Hivcr),  uiid  a  Imun  !»  of  the  CohmiMa  (liver, 
wliich,  howrever.  wm  erroneously  sup}Hi8cil  to  diaenihoijuo  through  the  Uraat  Suit 


Chap.  III. 


THE  SOUTH  PASS. 


163 


spot,  this ''divortia  aquarum:"  it  compels  Memory  to  revive  Dast 
scenes  before  plunging  into  the  mysterious  "La/ds  of  the  Here 
after    which  fie  before  and  beneath  the  feet.     The  Great  Ferr  J 
which  steam  has  now  bridged,  the  palisaded  banks  of  the  Hudson' 
the  soft  and  sunny  scenery  of  the  Ohio,  and  the  kingly  courTof 
the  Uper  Mississippi,  the  terrible  bekuty  of  Niagai  and  the 
marvets  of  that  chain  of  inland  seas  which\inds  itl  watery  wav 
rom  Ontano  to  Supenor;  the  rich  pasture-lands  of  the  Klf 
the  plantations  of  tlie  semi-tropical  feouth,  and  the  broad  corn 
fields  of  the  West ;  finally,  the  4st  meadow-land  and  tWloomy 
deseTt-waste  of  sage  and  saleratus,  of  clay  and  mauvaise  ItTo? 
red  buile  and   a«vny  rock,  all  pass  before  the  mind  in  rapid  army 
parture^  """  '''"'*  ^"*"  "^^^^^°^  ^^  '^'  excitement  of  a  new  d1^ 
But  we  have  not  yet  reached  our  destination,  which  is  two 
miles  below  the  South  Pass.     Pacific  Springs  is  orstation^^ 
hcs  a  little  down  the  hill,  and  we  can  sig&  it  from  Z  rotd    The 
springs  are  a  pond  of  pure,  hard,  and  very  cold  water  surrouTid^-l 
by  a  strip  of  shakin/oog,' which  must  bl  iToS  oVer  S^'^ 
will  bear  a  man      The  hut  would  be  a  right  melancholy  Xde 
were  It  not  for  the  wooded  ground  on  one  hand,  and  the  glorious 

wSt's  Vm  ''^T  f'?^'^?  "^^"•"  ^^  reachlfpaS 
bprings  at  3  P.M.,  and  dmed  without  delay,  the  material  beincr 

bouih  and  potatoes-unusual  luxuries.  About  an  hour  aS 
ward  the  west  wind,  here  almost  invariable,  brought  up  a  shower 
of  ram,  and  swept  a  vast  veil  over  the  fornis  of  the  "VWid-Ce r 
Mountan^s.  Toward  sunset  it  cleared  away,  and  the  dcpar  h'a 
lummary  poured  a  flood  of  gold  upon  the  majestic  pilc-ffavf 
seldom  seen  a  view  more  beautiful.  ^ 

From  the  south,  the  barren  rolling  table-land  that  forms  the 
Pass  tn^nds  northward  till  it  sinks  .-J^parently  below  a  rX  of 
offsets  from  the  mam  body,  black  with  tLberi^edaTcyprps?  fir 
and  baisam  pme.  The  hand  of  Nature  has  marked,  as  t^CS  by 
hnc  and  level,  the  place  where  vegetation  shall  go  and  no  &her 
Below  the  waist  the  mountains  are  robed  in  evergreens  Xve 
It,  to  the  shoukkrrs,  they  would  be  entirely  bare  Ltfbr'tle  at- 
mosphere, which  has  thrown  a  thin  veil  of  light  blue  over  Thdr 
tawny  gray,  while  tla^.r  majestic  heads  are  covered  with  ice  and 
anow,  or  are  l.ulden  from  sight  by  thunder-cloud  or  the  morn^n^ 
must,    .l.rom  the  south,  on  clear  days,  the  cold  and  glittShig  ra° 

L'nitcl  State.  TopoKn.plun.l  Kn.intors/Mll^^rn^on    a    "a^^  "'° 


/  ff*  ){ 


-r 


164 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


diance  may  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  miles.  The  mon- 
arch of  these  mountains  is  "Fremont's  Peak;"  its  height  is  laid 
down  at  13,570  feet  above  sea  level ;  and  second  to  it  is  a  hoary 
cone  called  by  the  station-people  Snowy  Peak. 

That  evening  the  Wind-Biver  Mountains  appeared  in  marvel- 
ous majesty.  The  huge  purple  hangings  of  rain-cloud  in  the 
northern  sky  set  off  their  huge  proportions,  and  gave  prominence, 
as  in  a  stereoscope,  to  their  gigantic  forms,  and  their  upper  heights, 
hoar  with  the  frosts  of  ages.  The  mellow  radiance  of  the  setting 
sun  diffused  a  charming  softness  over  their  more  rugged  features, 
defin,ing  the  folds  and  ravines  with  a  distinctness  which  deceived 
every  idea  of  distance.  And  as  the  light  sank  behind  the  far 
western  horizon,  it  traveled  slowly  up  the  mountain  side,  till, 
reaching  the  summit,  it  mingled  its  splendors  with  the  snow — 
flashing  and  flickering  for  a  few  brief  moments,  then  wasting  them 
in  the  dark  depths  of  the  upper  air.  Nor  was  the  scene  less  love- 
ly in  the  morning  hour,  as  the  first  effulgence  of  day  fell  upon 
the  masses  of  dew-cloud — at  this  time  mist  always  settles  upon 
their  brows  —  lit  up  the  peaks,  which  gleamed  like  silver,  and 
poured  its  streams  of  light  and  warmth  over  the  broad  skirts  re- 
posing upon  the  plain. 

This  unknown  region  was  explored  in  August,  1842,  by  Col- 
onel, then  Brevet  Captain,  J.  C.  Fremont,  of  the  United  States  Top- 
ographical Engineers ;  and  his  eloquent  descriptions  of  the  mag- 
nificent scenery  that  rewarded  his  energy  and  enterprise  prove 
how  easily  men  write  well  when  they  have  a  great  subject  to 
write  upon.  The  concourse  of  small  green  tarns,  rushing  waters, 
and  lofty  cascades,  with  the  gigantic  disorder  of  enormous  m;iss- 
es,  the  savage  sublimity  of  the  naked  rock,  broken,  jagged  cones, 
slender  minarets,  needles,  and  columns,  and  serrated  walls,  2000 
to  3000  feet  high,  all  naked  and  destitute  of  vegetable  earth ;  the 
vertical  precipices,  chasms,  and  fissures,  insecure  icy  passages, 
long  moraines,  and  sloping  glaciers  —  wliich  had  nearly  prov.'d 
fatal  to  some  of  the  party  ;  the  stern  recesses,  shutting  out  from 
the  world  dells  and  ravines  of  exquisite  beauty,  smoothly  carpet- 
ed with  soft  gnuss,  kept  green  and  fresh  by  the  moisture  of  the  at- 
mosphere, and  sown  with  gay  groups  of  brilliant  flowers,  of  which 
yellow  was  the  predominant  color :  all  this  glory  and  grandeur 
seems  to  be  placed  like  a  picture  before  our  eyes.  The  reader 
enjoys,  like  tue  explorer,  the  fragrant  odor  of  the  pines,  and  the 
pleasure  of  breathing,  in  the  bright,  clear  morning,  that  "mount- 
ain air  which  makes  a  constant  theme  of  the  hunter's  praise,"  and 
which  causes  man  to  feel  ns  if  he  had  been  inlialing  some  exhila- 
rating gas.  "Wo  sympathize  with  his  joy  in  having  hit  upon 
"  sucTi  a  beautiful  entrance  to  the  mountains,"  in  liis  sorrow, 
caused  by  accidents  to  barometer  and  thermometer,  and  in  the 
honest  pride  with  which,  fixing  a  ramrod  in  the  crevice  of  "an 
unstable  and  precarious  slab,  which  it  seemed  a  breath  would  hurl 


Chap. III.     GOLD.-GAME.-MUSQUETOES.-A  "SMUDGE."  iq^ 

into  the  abyss  below  "  he  unfurled  the  Stars  and  the  Stripes  to 
wave  m  the  bree^^e  where  flag  never  waved  before-over  the  tor. 
most  crest  of  the  Eocky  Mountains.  And  every  driver  uponZ, 
road  now  can  tell  how,  in  the  profound  silence  and  terrible  still^ 
ness  and  solitude  that  affect  the  mind  as  the  great  features  of  the 
scene  while  sitting  on  a  rock  at  the  very  summit,  where  the  silence 
w^  absolute,  unbroken  by  any  sound,"'and  the  stillness  and  soS 

h^lS^f  ""P-'^'^'.^-T^^'i^^"^  "humble-bee"*  winging  through 

he  black-blue  air  his  flight  from  the  eastern  valley,  Ilit  upon  the 

knee  of  one  of  the  men,  and,  helas !  -  found  a  grave  in  the^leaves 

of  the  large  book,  among  the  flowers  collected  on  the  way  " 

hl:Z  r'"^-^^'''^'^  ^ange  has  other  qualities  than  mere  formal 

0  im  full  onT^' n  ''■  ■  ^l  ^^^'^'^oe  Creek  I  was  shown  a 
quill  full  of  large  gold-grams  from  a  new  digging.    Probablv  all 
the  primitive  masses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  will  be  foiS  to 
contain  the  precious  metal.     The  wooded  heights  are  said  to  be  a 
very  paradise  of  sport  full  of  elk  and  every  kind  of  deer;  pumas 
bears  brownt  as  well  as  grizzly;  the  wolverine ;t  in  parts  'he 
mountain  buffalo-briefly,  all  the  noble  game  of  the  Continent 
The  Indian  tribes,  Shoshonees  and  Blackfeet,  are  not  deadly  to 
whites.    Waslnki  the  chief  of  the  former,  had,  during  the  time 
of  our  visit  retired  to  hilly  ground,  about  forty  miles  north  of  the 
Foot  of  RidgeStation.     This  chief-a  fine,  manly  fellow,  equal  in 
point  of  physical  strength  to  the  higher  race— had  been  a  firm 
mend,  Irom  the  bcguiumg,  to  emigrant  and  settler;  but  he  wa-^ 
comp  aining,  according  to  the  road  oflicials,  that  the  small  amount 
ot  inducement  prevented  his  affording  good  conduct  any  longer 
—that  he  must  rob,  like  the  rest  of  the  tribe.     Game,  indeed  i,-. 
not  unfrcquently  found  near  the  Taciflc  Springs;  they  are  visit- 
ed, later  in  the  year,  by  swans,  geese,  and  flights  of  ducks.    At 
this  season  they  seem  principally  to  attract  coyotes- five  mules 
have  lately  been  worried  by  the  little  villains— Luge  cranes,  chick- 
en-hawks, a  large  species  of  trochilus,  and  clouds  of  musquctoes 
which  neither  the  altitude,  the  cold,  nor  the  eternal  wind-storm 
that  howls  through  the  Pass  can  drive  from  their  favorite  breed- 
ing-bed.    Near  nightfoll  a  flock  of  wild  geese  passed  over  us  au- 
dibly threatening  an  early  winter.     We  were  obliged,  before  rest- 
ing, to  insist  upon  a  smudge, §  without  which  fumigation  sleep 
would  have  been  impossible. 

'A  spocios  <.f  hromus  or  homhm.     In  the  United  States,  ns  in  England,  the  word 

»  often  l-rpnounecd  l,„ml.le-lR.o.     .Johnson  say.  wo  cull  a  l.cc  an  hun.bk  beo  that 

yant8  a  ctrng;  so  tho  States  eall  black  cattle  without  horns  "humble  cows."     It  is 

10  general  belief  of  the  moimtaincera  that  the  l)ce,the  partridge,  the  plantain,  and 

the     Jamestown  weed'  follow  the  footsteps  of  the  white  pioneers  westward. 

T  !^ome  authorities  doubt  that  the  European  biowu  boar  is  found  in  America. 

1  1  lie  wolverine  {Gulo  luscus),  carcajou,  or  glutton,  extends  throuKhoiit  Utah  Ter- 
ntory:  its  cnrnivorous  jm-pensities  render  if  an  object  of  peculiar  balled  to  fur- 
.ZT<x'  1  ■  '"■^V"""",  '^'"»"='y  "«''!  •"  «''c  f^t"f<'s:  the  people  of  Michigan  are 
(nnrfletO    '''""'"'"       "  '"  inimlK.n-  of  mischkious  jmdnc  wolves  found  there 

§  This  old  North  of  England  word  is  used  in  the  West  for  a  heap  of  green  bush 


166 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


I 


The  shanty  was  perhaps  a  trifle  more  uncomfortable  than  the 
average ;  our  only  seat  was  a  kind  of  trestled  plank,  which  sug- 
gested a  certain  obsolete  military  punishment  called  riding  on  a 
rail.  The  station-master  was  a  bon  enfant;  but  his  help,  a  Mor- 
mon lad,  still  in  his  teens,  had  been  trained  to  go  in  a  "sorter" 
jibbing  and  somewhat  uncomfortable  "argufying,"  " highfalutin' " 
way.  He  had  the  furor  for  fire-arms  that  characterizes  the  ingen- 
uous youth  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  his  old  rattletrap  of  a  re- 
volver, which  always  reposed  by  his  side  at  night,  was  as  danger- 
ous to  his  friends  as  to  himself.  His  vernacular  was  peculiar; 
like  Mr.  Boatswain  Chucks  (Mr.  D s),  he  could  L  gin  a  sen- 
tence with  polished  and  elaborate  diction,  but  it  always  ended, 
like  the  wicked,  badly.  He  described  himself,  for  instance,  as 
having  lately  been  "  slightly  inebriated ;"  but  the  euphuistic  peri- 
phrasis concluded  with  an  asseveration  that  he  would  be  "Gord 
domned"  if  he  did  it  again. 

The  night  was,  like  the  day,  loud  and  windy,  the  log  hut  being 
somewhat  crannied  and  creviced,  and  the  door  had  a  porcelain 
handle,  and  a  shocking  bad  fit — a  characteristic  combination.  We 
had  some  trouble  to  keep  ourselves  warm.  At  sunrise  the  ther- 
mometer showed  35°  Fahrenheit. 

To  Green  River.     August  2\st. 

We  rose  early,  despite  the  cold,  to  enjoy  once  more  the  lovely 
aspect  of  the  Wind- River  Mountains,  upon  whose  walls  of  snow 
the  rays  of  the  unrisen  sun  broke  with  a  splendid  effect ;  break- 
fasted, and  found  ourselves  en  route  at  8  A.M.  The  day  did  not 
begin  well :  Mrs.  Dana  was  suffering  severely  from  fatigue,  and 
the  rapid  transitions  from  heat  to  cold;  Miss  May,  poor  child! 
was  but  little  better,  and  the  team  was  re-enforced  by  an  extra 
mule  returning  to  its  proper  station :  this  four-footed  Xantippe 
caused  us,  without  speaking  of  the  dust  from  her  hoofs,  an  im- 
mensity of  trouble. 

At  the  Pacific  Creek,  two  miles  below  the  springs,  we  began  the 
descent  of  the  Western  water-shed,  and  the  increase  of  tempera- 
ture soon  suggested  a  lower  level.  Wc  were  at  once  convinced 
that  those  who  expect  any  change  for  the  better  on  the  counter- 
slope  of  the  mountains  labor  under  a  vulgar  error.  The  land  was 
desolate,  a  red  waste,  dotted  with  sage  and  greasebush,  and  in 
places  pitted  with  largo  rain-drops.  But,  looking  backward,  wc 
could  admire  the  Sweetwater's  Gap  heading  Tar  away,  and  the  glo- 
rious pile  of  mountains  which,  disposed  in  crescent  shape,  curtain- 
ed the  horizon ;  tlicir  southern  and  western  bases  wanted,  howev- 
er, one  of  the  principal  cliarms  of  the  upper  view :  tlic  snow  had 
well-nigh  been  melted  off:  Yet,  according  to  the  explorer,  they 
supply  within  the  spaco  of  a  few  miles  the  Green  River  with  a 

or  other  damp  combustiblns,  placed  inside  or  to  windward  of  ft  house  or  tent,  and 
partially  lighted,  so  as  to  produce  a  thick,  pungent  steam. 


Chap.  III. 


THE  GLISTENING  GRAVEL  WATER. 


167 


number  of  tributaries,  which  are  all  called  the  New  Forks.  "We 
kept  them  iu  sight  till  they  mingled  with  the  upper  air  like  im- 
mense masses  of  thunder-cloud  gathering  for  a  storm. 

From  Pacific  Creek  the  road  is  not  bad,  but  at  this  season  the 
emigrant  parties  are  sorely  tried  by  drought,  and  when  water  is 
found  it  is  often  fetid  or  brackish.  After  seventeen  miles  we  pass- 
ed the  j  unction  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  and  Fort  Hall  roads.  Near 
Little  Sandy  Creek— a  feeder  of  its  larger  namesake — which  after 
rains  is  about  2-5  feet  deep,  we  found  nothing  but  sand,  caked 
clay,  sage,  thistles,  and  the  scattered  fragments  of  camp-fires,  with 
large  ravens  picking  at  the  bleaching  skeletons,  and  other  indica- 
tions of  a  halting-ground,  an  eddy  in  the  great  current  of  man- 
kind, which,  ceaseless  as  the  Gulf  Stream,  ever  courses  from  east 
to  west.  After  a  long  stage  of  twenty-nine  miles  we  made  Big 
Sandy  Creek,  an  important  influent  of  the  Green  Eiver;  the 
stream,  then  shrunken,  was  in  breadth  not  less  than  five  rods, 
each  =  16-5  feet,  running  with  a  clear,  swift  current  through  a 
pretty  little  prairillon,  bright  with  the  blue  lupine,  the  delicate 
pink  malvacea,  the  golden  helianthus,  purple  aster  acting  daisy, 
the  white  mountain  heath,  and  the  green  Asclepias  tuberosa,*  a 
weed  common  throughout  Utah  Territory.  The  Indians,  in  their 
picturesque  way,  term  this  stream  Wagahongopa,  or  the  Glisten- 
mg  Gravel  Water.f  We  halted  for  an  hour  to  rest  and  dine ;  the 
people  of  the  station,  man  and  wife,  the  latter  very  young,  were 
both  English,  and  of  course  Mormons ;  they  had  but  lately  be- 
come tenants  of  the  ranch,  but  already  they  were  thinking,  as  the 
Old  Country  people  will,  of  making  their  surroundings  "nice  and 
tidy." 

_  Beyond  the  Glistening  Gravel  Water  lies  a  mauvaise  iene,  some- 
time!} called  the  First  Desert,  and  upon  the  old  road  water  is  not 
found  in  the  dry  season  within  forty-nine  miles — a  terrible /orna- 
daX  for  laden  wagons  with  tired  cattle.  We  prepared  for  drought 
by  replenishing  all  our  canteens — one  of  them  especially,  a  tin 
flask,  covered  outside  with  thick  cloth,  kept  the  fluid  deliciously 
cold — and  we  amused  ourselves  by  the  pleasant  prospect  of  seeing 
wild  mules  taught  to  bear  harness.  The  tricks  of  equine  vicious- 
ness  and  asinine  obstinacy  played  by  the  mongrels  were  so  dis- 
tinct, that  we  had  no  pains  in  determining  what  was  inherited  from 
the  father  and  what  from  the  other  side  of  the  house.  Before 
they  could  be  hitched  up  they  were  severally  hustled  into  some- 

*  Locally  called  milkweed.  The  whites  use  the  silky  cotton  of  the  pods,  as  in 
Arabia,  for  bed-stuffinRs,  and  the  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Upper  Platte  boil  and  eat  the 
young  pods  with  their  buftnlo  flcsli.  Colonel  Fremont  asserts  that  ho  never  saw  this 
plant  without  remarking  "on  the  flower  a  largo  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in 
color  aa  to  be  distinguishable  at  a  little  distance  only  by  the  motion  of  its  wings." 

t  Similarly  the  Snako  River,  an  eastern  influent  of  tho  Colorado,  is  called  Yampa 
Pa,  or  Sweet  Root  (Anethum  graveolens)  Water. 

t  The  Spanish-Mexican  term  for  a  day's  march.  It  is  generally  applied  to  a  wa- 
terless march,  e.g.,  "Jornada  del  Muerto"  in  New  Mexico,  which,  like  some  in  the 
Sahara,  measures  ninety  miles  across. 


'JJ^H-,^. 


"«-«#% 


gc  comes 
J  muft  be 
ic  refpcc-^ 
fe  on  any 
ce,  which 
le,  in  or- 
qucftions 


the  bar  in 
at  the  fer- 

with  the 
perfon  can 

to  the  bar 
snt  of  cem- 
ent,  or  to 

mace  muji 


or  the  pcr- 
.ropricty  of 


)  io9« 


(    75    ) 

Si  un  Lord  dw  Parlement,  ou 'i^' Jugt 
vient  a  la  Chambre  <^  qualitk  de  ('emoin^  il 
faiit  lui  donner  une  chaife,  "et  faife  toufes 
chofes  refpedbueufement  comme  s'il  affiftoit 
pour  aucuneautre affaire,  a  Texception  dc 
la  maffe,  qui,  il  femble,  dpit  ctrc,  fur  U 
table,  afin  que  les  membres  puiffent  propo- 
fer  telles  queftions  qu'ils  veulent  faircL  au 
temoin,  (n)   r  y  w^«  ^^  tI 

0^4  un  acccufe  eft  amcnc'  a  1^  barre 
fous  garde,  il  paroit  que  Jfi  fergerit  doit  fe 
tcnir  debout  pres  de.  lui  avcc  la  maflc,  ct 
durant  ce  terns  h  il  n  y  a  que  TOrateur  qui 
puilfe  parler.  Si  un  d.linquent  eR  amene 
pour  recevoir  fafentence  d'emprifonnement, 
au  aucune  autre  punition,  ou  pour  etre  e- 
krgi  de  prifon,  la  maffe  doit  etre  a  la 
Bar re. 

Uans  tous  les  cas,  fi  un  membre,  ou  la 
perfonne  qui  eft  a  la  barre,  objedte  a  une 


an) 


(n)  Hatfcif,  Tom,  a.  page  loti.  k  109. 


|^ 


queftlotii 


any  queftion  that  is  alked,  and  the  queftiom 
is  infifted  on,  the  witnefs  muft  immediately 
be  direded  by  the  fpeaker  to  withdraw, 
and  this  without  taking  the  fenfe  of  the 
houfe  by  a  queftion,  for  no  queftion  can 
be  moved  or  put  while  council  or  witneffes 
are  at  the  bar. 

It  is  now  a  ftanding  rule,  that  when  any 
perfon  is  brought  to  the  bar  to  receive  judg- 
mcnt,  or  to  be  difcharged  out  of  cuftody, 
fuch  perfon  ihall  receive  the  judgment  ftand- 
ing  at  the  bar,  unlefs  otherwiic  direded  in 
the  order  of  the  houfe. 


Peers  and  ferfons  of  rank  not  Peers,  adrr''*  m  Del* 
ted  into  the  Houfe  of  Commons.  I     qu 

From  the  earlieft  account  of  peers  ad- 1     ^^ 
IMUttcd  into   the  houfe  of  commons,   the  ■  touct 


•«*\#«*« 


im^^'. 


iC  queftiom 
imediateljr 
withdraw, 
)fe  of  the 
eftion  can 
r  witneffes 


:  when  anj 
xivejudg- 
f  cuftody, 
tient  ftand- 
iiredted  in 


■I    77.) 

queftion  demandec,  com  me  inconvenabfc; 
ct  que  Ton  infifte  fur  cette  queftion,  TOra- 
teur  doit  inmediatemcnt  ordonner  au  te- 
moin  de  fe  retirer,  et  cela  fans  prendre  Tavis 
de  la  Chambre  par  une  queftion  ;  car  nuUc 
queftion  ne  peut  etre  propofee  ni  agitec 
tandis  que  le  confcil  ou  les  temoins  font  k. 
h  barre. 

C'eft  a  prefent  une  regie  fixe,  que  lorf- 
que  quelqu'un  eft  amene  a  l*  barre  pour  re- 
cevoir  fa  fentcnce,  ou^-pour  etre  ekrgi 
de  j)rifon  il  fe  tient  debout  a  la  barre 
pour  recevoir  fa  fentence,  a  moins  qu*il  nc 
foit  autremeni  ordonne  dans  I'ordre  de 
de  la  Chambre. 


nons. 


f  peers  aci- 
mons,   the 


De  rudmiffion  des  Pairs  et  perfonnes  de  qudJU^ 
qui  ne  font  pas  Pairs ^  dans  la  Chambre: 
des  Communes. 

II  paroit   par  le   recit  le    plus    ancicft 
touchaot    raimifllon    des    Pairs^   dans  la 


n  -» 


r^L... 


.1 ^ 


'^*MMAM/^%r 


JM  £('JE;i'i«.^'5**i|. 


(  78  ) 

mode  of  receiving  them  feems  to  liave  been 
much  the  fame  as  at  prefect,  that  is,  they 
were-sittended  from  the  door  by  the  ferjesnt 
with  the  mace,    making  three  obeyfances 
tb  the  houfe;   that  they  had  a  chair  fct  for 
them  within  the  bar,   on  the  left  hand  as 
they  enter,  in  which  they  fat  down  cover- 
ed,  and  if  they  had  any  thing  to  deUver  to 
the  houfe,  they  flood  up  and  fpoke  unco- 
vered, the  ferjeant  ftanding  by  them  all  the 
time  with  the  mace* ;  and  that  they  with- 
draw making  the  fame  obeyfances  to  the 
lioufc,    the  ferjeatit  with  the  mace  accom- 
pany m%  them  to  the  door.     The  difference 
between  the  reception  of  peers  and  judges 
has  been,    that   the   fpeaker   informs   the 
peer    **  tliat  tkre  is  a  chair  for  his  lord- 
Ihip'to  repofe  himfelf  /'/ :"    To  the  j  udge, 
the  fpeaker  %s,  -  there  is  a  chair  for  him 


41^ 


•  If  they  arc  witudTcs,the  mict  rcmimi  nf  on  the  ubk. 
Vidi  ihc  pucccding  kdmu 

to 


•ittfattfmetm 


ave  Seen 
is,  they 
;  ferjesnt 
jeyfances 
:ir  iet  for 
:  hand  as 
m  cover- 
leliver  to 
ke  unco- 
m  all  the 
ley  with- 
[is  to  the 
e  accom- 
ilifFerencc 
adjudges 
Drms    the 
his  lord- 
he  judge, 
ir  for  him 


1,       -,»     > 

(    79    ) 

• 

Chambre  des  Communes  que  la  manierc 
de  les  recevoir  etoit  la  meme  qu'a  prefent. 
lis  etoient  accompagnes  depuis  la  porte  par 
le  Sergent  avec  la  maffe,  faifant  trois  reve- 
rences a  la  Chambre  ;  on  leur  mettoit  unc 
chaife  tn  dedans  de  la  Barre  a  main  gauche, 

lorfqu'ils  entraient ;  ils  s*y  afleyoient  cou.- 
verts,  et  s'ils  avoient  quelque  chofe  a  dire  a 
lachambre,  iJs  fetenoientdeboutetfedecou- 
vroient  pour  parler.  Durant  tout  ce  tems  la 
le  Sergent  fe  tenoit  debout  pres  d'eux  avec 
la  mace*.  lis  fe  retiroient  en  faifant  les 
memes  reverences  ala  Chambre; ;  le  Sergent, 
avec  la  maffe,  les  accompagnoient  jufqu*^ 
la  porte.  La  difference  entre  la  reception 
des  Pairsetdes  Juges  eft  que  TOrateur  in- 
forme  le  Pair,  *'  ^''il y  a  une  chaije  pour 
fa  Seigneur ie  pour  fe  repafer  dedans**, — 
ct  qu*il  dit  au  Juge,     **  ^*ii  v   a    une. 


on  the  uble. 


•  S*ils  font  'emoins,    la  mafic  dcmtur*.  far  la  table.^ 
Voycz  k  icttion    prcccdcntc, 


\  n 


to  repoCe  himfcf  upon^*  /.  e.  as  explained 
by  the  ufage  for  the  perlbn  to  reft  with  his 
fcand  on  the  back  of  it  (o)^ 


6n  Siuejlions  where  Members  are  interejtect. 

No  member  may  be  prefent  in  the  houfc 
^hen  a  bill  or  any  bufinefs  concerning  him^ 
felf  is  debating,  but  while  the  bill  is  but 
leading  or  opening,   he  may. 

Where  there  is  any  proceeding  in  the 
fioufe  which  affedts  the  charader  of  a  mem- 
ber,  he  is  not  to  withdraw  till  he  knows  what 
will  be  the  fubftance  of  the  charge  againft 
him,  and  till  he  has  had  an  opportunity  of 
explaining  to  the  houfe  the  motives  of  his 
condudt  in  the  matter  alledged  againft  him. 


(o^  Hatfell,  »d.  vol,  prgc  uo  to  115. 


iMWpnm-^iirip-fca..-.^;^-g::u-a:; 


xplained 
with  hU 


nterefiei, 

hie  houfc 
ing  him. 

11  is  but 


ig  in  the 
'  a  mem- 
»ws  what 
c  againft 
tunity  of 
!S  of  his 
nft  hini<. 


X  9»  ) 

ihaife  pour  hi  pour  fe  repofcr  dejfus'\^^ 
c'eft-a-dire  comme  il  eft  explique  par 
I'ufagc^que  laper fonne  fe repofe  en  appuyant 
fa  main  fur  le  doffier  de  la  Chaife.  (o) 


1 

Surles  queftions  dans  lefquelles  des  Membres 

font  intkrejfh. 

Nul  Membre  nc  pcut  etrc  prefens  dans 
la  Cbambre  quand  on  y  delibere  furun  bill 
ou  fur  aucunc  affaire  qui  le  concerne;  mais 
il  peut  etre  prefent  tandis  qu'on  ne  fait  qi» 
lire  le  bill  ou  en  faire  rouvcrture. 

Quand  il  y  a  dans  la  Chambre  quelque 
procede  qui  effede  le  caradere  d'un  Mem-, 
bre,  il  n'eft  pas  tenu  de  fe  retirer  avant 
qu'il  connaiffe  la  fubftance  de  Taccufation 
porteecontrelui,et  qu*il  aiteuoccafion  d'ex- 
pliqucr  a  la  Chambre  les  motifs  de  fa  con- 
duitc  dans   I'affaire  all^guee  contrc  lui.— 


H^tlgU  Tom.  t,    ^ag^c  ito.  i  115 


QuaM 


il 


I 


■  Ht< 


'." 


(   so 

Where  this  charge  arifes  out  of  a  report  froip 
a  committee,,  or  from  an  examination  of 
witnefles  in  the  houfe,  the  member  accufed 
knows  to  what  points  he  is  to  diredt  his 
exculpation,  and  may  therefore  be  heard 
to  thofe  points,  before  any  queftion  is  mov- 
ed- or-  ftated  againft-  him,  and  in  this  cafe 
he  is  to  be  heard,  and  to  withdraw  before 
any  queftion  is  moved.  But  where  the 
queft'ion  itfelf  is  the  charge  for  any  breach 
of  the  orders  of  the  houfe,  or  for  any  mat- 
ter that  has  arifen  in  debate,  then  the  charge 
muft  be  ftated,  /.  e.  the  queftioa  muft  be 
moved,  tlie  member  muft  b«  then  heard,  in 
^his  explanation  or  exculpation,  and  then, 
and  not  till  then,  he  is  to  withdraw  (p). 


When  the  Speaker  may  fake  the  Chair. 

The  fpeakcr  is  not  to  go  to  his  chair  till 
there  be  at  leaft  forty  members  in  the  houfe. 


(p)  HatfoU,  24.  vol.  pa|c  \i%  to  isa. 


When 


i^'J5"ju»W-i^'» 


~i=ii-  :::i:rtar=: 


port  from 
lation  of 
r  accufed 
liredl  his 
be  heard 
n  is  mov- 
this  cafe 
m  before 
here  the 
ly  breach 
any  mat- 
he  charge 
i.  muft  be 
I  heard,  in 
md  then, 
iw  (p). 

Chair. 

\  chair  till 
:he  houle. 


Qiiand  cettc  accufation  provient  du  xapport 
d'unComite,  oud^un  cxamen  de  temoini^ 
fait  dans  la  Chambre,  le  niembre  accufe 
fait<^  quels  points  il  doit  diriger  fa  difcul- 
pation,  etpeut  confequemment  etre  chtcn- 
du  fur-ces  points  avant  que  nulle  queftfoii 
foit  agltee  et  etablie  contre  lui ;  et  dans  cc 
cas  il  doit  etre  entendu,  et  fe  retirer  avant 
qu'aucune  queftion  foit  agitee.  Mais 
I6rfque  la  queftion  meme  conflitue  I'accu- 
fation  pour  quelque  trangreflion  des  Ordres' 
de  la  Chambre,  ou  pour  aucune  matiere ' 
furvenuedans  les  debats,  alors  Taccufation 
doit  etre  etablie,  c'eft  I  dire  que  laqueflion 
doit  atre  agitee;  le  membre  doit  tJtre  enfuite 
entendu,foitpour  s'expliquer  ouse  difculper, 
etalors,  et  nonplutot,  ildoit  fe  retirer.  (p) 

^En  quel  terns  rOrateur  peut prendre  le  Fau-^ 

teuil, 
L'Orateur  ne  doit  pas  prendre  le  Fauteuil 


II 


When  |     ^p^""'^''^^'  '^°™'  *»  P^s*  *»9  ^122. 


avant 


M 


■f- 


if 


ii^ 


u 


t    i 


{  H  ) 

When  it  happens  that  forty  mcmbera 
tdo  not  aflcmble,  the  fpeaker  waits  till  four 
o'clock  *^  and  then  by  his  own  authority , 
without  aqueftion  put,  adjourns  the  houfe, 
taking  the  chair  for  that  purpofc  onlyj 
and  he  can  only  adjourn  to  the  next  fit- 
ting day.  For  he  has  no  authority  to  ad- 
journ over  a  fitting  day,  unlefs  the  houfe 
have  previouily  refolved,  **  that  at  their 
rifing,**  they  dp  adjourn  to  a  particular  day, 
and  then  he  adjourns  the  houfe  to  that  day, 
and  this  refolution  is  frequently  come  to 
when  it  is  expected  that  from  the  thinnefs 
of  the  houfe  they  may  break  up  for  want  of 
forty  members. 

It  appears  from  feveral  inftances  that 
the  practice  of  the  houfe  has  extended  this 
rule  to  committees  of  the  whole  houfe,  and 


1^ 


*  Vide  fUt.  30  Car.  11.  and  13  Will.  III. 


kt.A 


AUa* 


(    85    ) 

avant  qu'il  yait  quaranta  Meinbres  pref^nts 
aumoins, 

Quand  il  arrive  qu'il  nV  a  pas  quarante 
membres  prefens,  I'Orateur  attend  jufqu'3 
quatre  heures,  *  et  alors  de  fapropre  auto- 
nte,  fans  propofer  auciine  queflion,  ajour- 
ne  la  Chambre,  et  ne  prend  le  fauteuil  que 
pour  cet  efFet   feulement;  et  dans  c^  cas. 
il  ne  peut  ajourner  que  jufqu'au  prdchaih 
jour  de  feance :  car  il  n'eft  pas  autorife  d'a- 
journer  ^  un  autre  jour  de  feance  plus  eloig- 
ns, a  ihoins  que  la  Chambre  n'ait  aupara- 
vant  refolu,  qu'^  fa  levee  elle  ajourne  i  uu 
jour  particulier,  et  alors  il  ajourne  la  Cham-* 
bre  i  ce  jour  M.     Cette  refolution  eft  fre- 
quemment  prife  quand  on '  eft  d'avis  que 
par  rapport  alapaucitc  de  la  Chambre  elle 
peut  fe  lever  faute  de  la  pre'fente   de  qua- 
rante Membres.  ■ ,,  - 

Uparoitpar  plufieurs  exemples   que  la 
P!!!!5^mf^fndu  cette  regie  aux  Comit^s 


I       •  Voycz  Stat.  30  de  Ch^s  IL  .,  ,.  .1.^.:,    — 


H 


de 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


# 


4f^ 


1.0 


i.i 


25 
2.2 

2.0 


1.25      U      16 

•*• 

6"     

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRfiT 

WHSTHN  Y    MStO 

(71*)  •73-4S03 


^ 


f\ 


^v 


s> 


;\ 


"W  ^^ 


"^"^^^^ 


^<^' 

^ 


i/j 


168 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


thing  like  a  parallel  line  with  the  pole,  and  were  then  forced  into 
tjeir  places  by  a  rope  attached  to  the  fore  wheel,  and  hauled  at 
the  other  end  by  two  or  three  men.  Each  of  these  pleasant  ani- 
mals had  a  bell :  it  is  sure,  unless  corraled,  to  run  away,  and  at 
^l^  1?^°^  ^^  necessary  to  guide  the  pursuer.  At  last,  being  "  all 
aboord, '  we  made  a  start,  dashed  over  the  Big  Sandy,  charged  the 
high  stiff  bank  with  an  impetus  that  might  have  carried  us  up  an 
otter-slide  or  a  Montague  Eusse,  and  took  the  right  side  of  the 
valley,  leaving  the  stream  at  some  distance. 

Eain-clouds  appeared  from  the  direction  of  the  hills:  appar- 
ently they  had  many  centres,  as  the  distant  sheet  was  rent  into  a 
succession  of  distinct  streamers.    A  few  drops  fell  upon  us  as  we 
advanced     Then  the  fiery  sun  "ate  up"  the  clouds,  or  raised 
them  so  liigh  that  they  became  plavthings  in  the  hands  of  the 
strong  and  steady  western  gale.     The  thermometer  showed  95° 
m  the  carriage,  and  111°  exposed  to  the  reflected  heat  upon  the 
black  leather  cushions.     It  was  observable,  however,  that  the 
sensation  was  not  what  might  have  been  expected  from  the  height 
of  the  mercury,  and  perspiration  was  unknown  except  during  se- 
vere exercise ;  this  proves  the  purity  and  salubrity  ol  the  air.    In 
St.  Jo  and  New  Orleans  the  effect  would  have  been  that  of  India 
or  of  a  Turkish  steam-bath.     The  heat,  however,  brought  with  it 
one  evil —a  green-headed  horsefly,  that  stung  like  a  wasp,  and 
from  which  cattle  must  be  protected  with  a  coating  of  grease  and 
tar.     Whenever  wind  blew,  tourbillons  of  dust  coursed  over  the 
different  parts  of  the  plain,  showing  a  highly  electrical  state  of 
the  atmosphere.     When  the  air  was  unmoved  the  mirage  was 
perfect  as  the  sarab  in  Sindh  or  Southern  Persia ;  earth  and  air 
were  both  so  dry  that  the  refraction  of  the  sunbeams  elevated  the 
objects  acted  upon  more  than  I  had  ever  seen  before.    A  sea  lay 
constantly  before  our  eyes,  receding  of  course  as  we  advanced,  but 
in  all  other  points  a  complete  lusus  natunr.     The  color  of  the  wa- 
tcr  was  a  dull  cool  sky-blue,  not  white,  as  the  "  looming"  gener- 
ally is;  the  broad  expanse  had  none  of  that  tremulous  upward 
motion  which  is  iXs  general  concomitant ;  it  lay  placid,  stif],  and 
perfectly  reflecting  in  its  a/.ure  depths— here  and  there  broken  by 
projecting  capes  and  bluff  headlands— the  forms  of  the  higher 
grounds  bordering  the  horizon. 

Aflor  twelve  miles'  driving  wo  passed  through  a  depression 
called  Siinpson's  Hollow,  and  somewhat  celebrated  in  local  story. 
Two  ficmicircloa  of  black  still  charred  the  ground;  on  a  cursory 
view  they  might  have  been  mistaken  for  burnt-out  lignite.  Here, 
in  1857,  the  Mormons  fell  upon  a  corraled  train  of  twenty-tlirco 
wagons,  laden  with  provisions  and  other  necessaries  for  the  fed- 
ml  troops,  then  halted  at  Camp  Scott  awaiting  orders  to  advance. 
The  wagoners,  suddenly  atlurkod,  and,  aa  usual,  unnrmod— their 
weapons  being  fastened  inside  their  awnings — could  offer  no  re- 
sistance, and  tho  whole  convoy  was  set  on  flro  except  two  convey- 


I 


Chap.  III. 


VALLEY  OF  THE  GKEEN  RIVER. 


169 


ances,  which  were  left  to  carry  back  supplies  for  the  drivers  till 
they  could  reach  their  homes.  On  this  occasion  the  dux  fadi -was 
Lot  Smith,  a  man  of  reputation  for  hard  riding  and  general  gal- 
lantry. The  old  Saint  is  always  spoken  of  as  a  good  man  who 
lives  by  "  Mormon  rule  of  wisdom."  As  at  Fort  Sumter,  no  blcod 
was  spilled.  So  far  the  Mormons  behaved  with  temper  and  pru- 
dence ;  but  this  their  first  open  act  of  rebellion  against,  or  secession 
from,  the  federal  authority  nearly  proved  fatal  to  them ;  had  the 
helm  of  government  been  held  by  a  firmer  hand  than  poor  Mr^ 
Buchanan's,  the  scenes  of  Nauvoo  would  have  been  acted  again 
at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  As  it  was,  all  turned  out  d  merveille  for 
the  saints  militant.  They  still  boast  loudly  of  the  achievement, 
and, on  the  marked  spot  where  it  was  performed  the  juvenile  emi- 
grants of  the  creed  erect  dwarf  graves  and  nameless  "  wooden" 
tomb-"  stones"  in  derision  of  their  enemies. 

As  sunset  drew  near  we  approached  the  banks  of  the  Big  Sandy- 
River.  The  bottom  through  which  it  flowed  was  several  yards 
in  breadth,  bright  green  with  grass,  and  thickly  feathered  with 
willows  and  cotton-wood.  It  showed  no  sign  of  cultivation ;  the 
absence  of  cereals  may  be  accounted  for  by  its  extreme  cold ;  it 
freezes  there  every  night,  and  none  but  the  hardiest  grains,  oats 
and  rye,  which  here  are  little  appreciated,  could  be  made  to  grow. 
We  are  now  approaching  the  valley  of  the  Green  lliver,  which, 
like  many  of  the  rivers  in  the  Eastern  States,  appears  formerly  to 
have  filled  a  far  larger  channel.  Flat  tables  and  elevated  terraces 
of  horizontal  strata — showing  that  the  deposit  was  made  in  still 
waters — with  layers  varying  from  a  few  lines  to  a  foot  in  thick- 
ness, composed  of  hard  clay,  green  and  other  sandstones,  and  ag- 
glutinated conglomerates,  rise  like  islands  from  barren  plains,  or 
form  escarpments  that  buttress  alternately  either  bank  of  the  wind- 
ing stream.  Such,  according  to  Captain  Stansbury,  is  the  general 
formation  of  the  land  between  the  South  Pass  and  the  "  Rim"  of 
the  Utah  Basin. 

Advancing  over  a  soil  alternately  sandy  and  rocky— an  iron 
flat  that  could  not  boast  of  a  spear  oi  grass — we  sighted  a  number 
of  coyotes,  fittest  inhabitants  of  such  a  waste,  and  a  long,  distant 
lino  of  dust,  like  the  smoke  of  a  locomotive,  raised  by  a  herd  of 
mules  w  liieh  were  being  driven  to  the  corral.  Wo  were  presently 
met  by  the  Pony  Express  rider;  he  reined  in  to  exchange  news, 
which  dc  part  et  d^aulrc  were  simply  nil.  As  ho  pricked  onward 
over  the  plain,  the  driver  informed  us,  with  a  portentous  rolling 
of  the  head,  that  Ichabod  was  an  a'mighty  fine  "  shyoot."  Within 
five  or  six  miles  of  Green  River  we  pn.s.sed  tlio  boundarv  stone 
which  boars  Oregon  on  one  side  and  Utah  on  the  other.  Wo  had 
now  traversed  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  country  of  Long- 
cared  men,*  and  were  entering  Dcserct,  the  Land  of  the  lloney-bec. 

•  OrcRon  In  wippOHod  bv  Mr.  E<!war(l  to  !invo  Wn  named  hy  the  Spuniarda  from 
the  immeiisoly  longthcnca  ears  (prrjont*)  of  tho  Indiiins  who  inlmbitod  it. 


m 


hi     ■      ^*^ 


170 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


At  6  30  P.M.  we  debouched  upon  the  bank  of  the  Green  Eiver 
i  he  station  was  the  home  of  Mr.  Macarthy,  our  driver.    The  soii 
of  a  Scotchman  who  had  settled  in  the  United  States,  he  retained 
many  signs  of  his  origin,  especially  freckles,  and  hair  which  one 
might  almost  venture  to  describe  as  sandy ;  perhaps  also,  at  times 
he  was  rather  o'er  fond  of  draining  "  a  cup  o'  kindness  yet."    He 
had  lately  taken  to  himself  an  English  wife,  the  daughter  of  a 
Birnungham  mechanic,  who,  before  the  end  of  her  pilgrimage  to 
''  Zion  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains,"  had  fallen  considerably  away 
from  grace,  and  had  incurred  the  risk  of  being  buffeted  by  Satan 
for  a  thousand  years— a  common  form  of  commination  in  the  New 
Faith— by  marrying  a  Gentile  husband.*    The  station  had  the 
indescribable  scent  of  a  Hindoo  village,  which  appears  to  result 
from  the  burning  of  hois  de  vache  and  the  presence  of  cattle :  there 
were  sheep,  horses,  mules,  and  a  few  cows,  the  latter  so  lively  that 
It  was  impossible  to  milk  them.    The  ground  about  had  the  effect 
of  an  oasis  in  the  sterile  waste,  with  grass  and  shrubs,  willows  and 
flowers,  wild  geraniums,  asters,  and  various  crucifcrce.    A  few  trees 
chiefly  quaking  asp,  lingered  near  the  station,  but  dead  stumps 
were  far  more  numerous  than  live  trunks.     In  any  other  country 
their  rare  and  precious  shade  would  have  endeared  them  to  the 
whole  settlement ;  here  they  were  never  safe  when  a  log  was 
wanted.     The  Western  man  is  bred  and  perhaps  bom— I  believe 
devoutly  in  transmitted  and  hereditary  qualities- with  an  instinct- 
ive dislike  to  timber  in  general.     Ite  fells  a  tree  naturally  as  a 
bull-terrier  worries  a  cat,  and  the  admirable  woodsman's  axe  which 
he  has  invented  only  serves  to  whet  his  desire  to  try  conclusions 
with  every  mope  venerable  patriarch  of  the  forcst.t     Civilized 
Americans,  of  course,  lament  the  destructive  mania,  and  the  Lat- 
ter-Day  Saints  have  learned  by  hard  experience  the  inveterate 
evils  that  may  arise  in  such  a  country  from  disforesting  the  ground. 
"VVe  supped  comfortably  at  Grcen-Kivcr  Station,  the  stream  sup-* 
plying  excellent  salmon  trout.    The  kichimiclii,  or  buflalo  berry,! 
makes  tolerable  jelly,  and  alongside  of  the  station  is  a  store  where 
Mr.  Burton  (of  Maine)  sells  "  Valley  Tan"  whisky.§ 

*  m.  IlriKlinin  Yonnp;,  ono  of  the  itioRt  tolcrnnt  of  n  people  wliosfl  motto  h  tolcr- 
ofion,  wotild  not,  1  bdicvfi,  otlc-r  any  but  an  offlcial  objcition  to  a.  Mormon  niomlmr 
rfa-rying  n.  wortliy  tJcntilu ;  but  oven  ho— nnd  it  oould  Imrdly  Iks  expected  thnt  ho 
M  «r   .~^""  "!"  ".'"'"'■'"•'''  '•'f'  "'"  of  npostnoy.    Tlio  order  of  tho  fuitli  mm  thus  • 

Wo  IkjIkhc  thnt  It  iH  not  riKht  to  prohibit  memlKTS  of  tho  Clum  li  from  mnrrvinif 
out  of  the  Church,  if  it  be  their  determinntion  so  to  do,  l)ut  such  juTsons  will  bo  con! 
Kidcrcd  wcnk  in  tho  fnith  of  our  T.ord  nnd  Savior  Jesus  Christ."  Tho  same  view  of 
the  Hubjoct  is  taken,  I  need  hardly  say,  by  tho  more  rigid  kind  of  Homnn  Catholic 

t  Many  of  the  blades,  iK-inj?  made  by  convicts  nt  tho  Mate  |)riHons,  are  sold  cheap 
The  extent  of  the  timln^r  rcKions  necessitated  this  excellent  implement,  ond  tho  savl 
inR  of  labor  on  the  Kuropenn  article  is  enormous. 

t  A  shrub  1(V-I5  feet  hinh,  with  a  fruit  alxjut  tho  tizo  of  a  pea,  red  liko  a  wild 
rostvbip,  and  with  a  pleasant  sub-acid  llavor:  the  Indians  cat  it  with  avidity,  and  it 
IS  cultivated  in  the  ffardens  al  (Jrent  Salt  T.akc  City. 

§  Tannery  was  the  first  teduKdo^riml  process  introduced  into  the  Mormon  Valley : 
liencc  all  home  industry  has  obtained  tho  sobriquet  of  "  Volley  Tan." 


Chap,  m. 


EXPLORATION  YET  TO  BE  DONE. 


171 


The  Green  Eiver  is  the  Eio  Verde  of  the  Spaniards,  who  named 
it  from  its  timbered  shores  and  grassy  islets :  it  is  called  by  the 
Yuta  Indians  Piya  Ogwe,  or  the  Great  Water ;  by  the  other  tribes 
Sitskidiagf,  or '_'  Prairie-grouse  River."  It  was  nearly  at  its  lowest 
when  we  saw  it ;  the  breadth  was  not  more  than  330  feet.  In 
the  flood-time  it  widens  to  800  feet,  and  the  depth  increases  from 
three  to  sLi.  During  the  inundation  season  a  ferry  is  necessary, 
and  when  transit  is  certain  the  owner  sometimes  nets  $500  a  week| 
which  is  not  unfrequently  squandered  in  a  day.  The  banks  are 
in  places  thirty  feet  high,  and  the  bottom  may  average  three  miles 
from  side  to*side.  It  is  a  swift-flowing  stream,  running  as  if  it 
had  no  time  to  lose,  and  truly  it  has  a  long  way  to  go.  Its  length, 
volume,  and  direction  entitle  it  to  the  honor  of  being  called  the 
head  water  of  the  great  Eio  Colorado,  or  Colored  Eiver,  a  larger 
and  more  important  stream  than  even  the  Columbia.  There  is 
some  grand  exploration  still  to  be  done  upon  the  line  of  the  Up- 
per Colorado,  especially  the  divides  which  lie  between  it  and  its 
various  influents,  the  Grand  Eiver  and  the  Yaquisilla,  of  which 
the  wild  trapper  brings  homo  many  a  marvelous  tale  of  beauty 
and  grandeur.  Captain  T.  A.  Gove,  of  the  10th  Eegiment  of  In- 
fantry, then  stationed  at  Camp  Floyd,  told  me  that  an  expedition 
had  often  been  projected :  a  party  of  twenty-five  to  thirty  men, 
well  armed  and  provided  with  inflatable  boats,  might  pass  without 
unwarrantable  risk  through  the  sparsely  populated  Indian  oun- 
try :  a  true  report  concerning  regions  of  which  there  are  no  many 
false  reports,  all  wearing  more  or  less  the  garb  of  fable— beautiful 
valleys  inclosed  in  inaccessible  rocks,  Indian  cities  and  golden 
treasures — would  bo  equally  interesting  ''.nd  important.  I  can 
not  recommend  the  undertaking  to  the  European  adventurer: 
the  United  States  have  long  since  organized  and  perfected  what 
was  proposed  in  England  during  the  Crimean  war,  and  whicli  fell, 
as  other  projects  then  did,  to  the  ground,  namely,  a  corps  of  Topo- 
graphical Engineers,  a  body  of  well-trained  and  scientific  explor- 
ers, to  whose  hands  the  task  may  safely  be  committed.* 

*  Tho  principal  explorers  under  tlic  United  States  government  of  tlio  regions  lying 
west  of  tho  Missi8sii)pi,  and  who  have  published  works  ujwn  tho  subject,  are  the  fol- 
lowing : 

1.  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  1804-C,  first  explored  tho  Rocky  Mountains  ^10 
tho  Columbia  River. 

2.  Major  Z.  M.  Pike,  in  1806-7,  visited  tho  upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and 
the  western  regions  of  Louisiana. 

8.  Major,  afterward  Colonel  S.  IL  Long,  of  the  United  States  Topographical  En- 
gineers, made  two  expeditions,  one  in  1819-20  to  the  Rooky  Mountains,  another  in 
1823  to  tho  Sources  of  tho  St.  Poter  and  tho  Lake  of  tho  Woods,  whereby  four  vol- 
umes octavo  were  filled. 

4.  Governor  Cass  and  Mr.  Schoolcraft  in  1820  explored  tho  Sources  of  tho  Mis- 
swipiii  and  tho  regions  west  and  south  of  Lako  Superior. 

6.  Colonel  H.  Dodge,  U.  S.  Army,  in  1835  traveled  ICOO  miles  from  Fort  Leav- 
enworth, and  visited  the  regicms  between  the  Arkansas  and  tho  Platte  Rivers. 

C,  Captain  Canfield,  United  States  Tojiograiihical  Engineers,  in  1888  explored 
tho  country  between  Forts  Leavenworth  and  SncUing. 


rip 

y !  I.r 


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■   -TT 

|^S?~ 

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MHi't 

172 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


We  passed  a  social  evening  at  Green-River  Station.  It  boast- 
ed ot  no  less  than  three  Englishwomen,  two  married,  and  one,  the 
Help,  still  single.  Not  having  the  Mormonite  reienue,  the  dames 
were  bv  no  means  sorry  to  talk  about  Birmingham  and  York- 
shire, their  birthplaces.  At  9  P.M.  arrived  one  of  the  road- 
agents,  Mr.  Cloete,  from  whom  I  gathered  that  the  mail-wa<Ton 
which  once  ran  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City  had  lately  been  taken 
oft  the  road.  The  intelligence  was  by  no  means  consolatory,  but 
a  course  of  meditation  upon  the  saying  of  the  sage,  "in  for  a  pen- 
ny, m  for  a  pound,"  followed  by  another  visit  to  my  namesake's 
grog-shop,  induced  a  highlv  philosophical  turn,  wEich  enabled 
me— with  the  aid  of  a  buflfalo— to  pass  a  comfortable  night  in  the 
store.  ° 

22dAuffust.     To  Ham's  Fork  and  Milkrsvilk. 

We  were  not  under  way  before  8  A.M.  Macarthy  was  again 
to  take  the  lines,  and  a  Giovinetto  returning  after  a  temporary 
absence  to  a  young  wife  is  not  usually  rejoiced  to  run  his  course. 
Indeed,  he  telt  the  inconveniences  of  a  semi-bachelor  life  so  se- 
verely, that  he  often  threatened  in  my  private  ear,  chemin  faisant 
to  throw  up  the  whole  concern. 

After  the  preliminary  squabble  with  the  mules,  we  forded  the 

pebbly  and  gravelly  bed  of  the  river-in  parts  it  looks  like  a 

■lake  exhausted  by  drainage— whose  swift  surging  waters  wetted 

the  upper  spokes  of  the  wheels,  and  gurgled  pleasantly  around 

thej)agji  which  contained  the  mail  for  Great  Salt  Lake  City.* 

7.  Mr.M'Cox,  of  Missouri,  sun-eyed  the  boundaries  cf  the  IndianTc^i^^^^U^. 
leal  E°nKin'ee^!°  ^""  '  ^  "'°  ^"'°  ^"P'"'"  "°°'''  ^"''*''^  «'"'<=*  Topograjh- 

8.  Mr.  Nicollet  (French)  in  1833-38  mapped  the  country  west  of  the  Unncr  Mis 
twZ'"ti  X-  '™^- "^'^  'I!  ^5??-^  "?  """''*'  '^  ^""""^  "^i '"'ifi«  rcconnoi.Tnce T- 
MrPrSon'i.'TiXSfn  ms.'^''  °°  ^^''^'^  *'^^'"'°"  ^'^  ^"^  "--"--'^  "^ 

The  explorations  of  Colonel  Fremont,  Captain  Howard  Stansbury.  Lieutenant 
Gunn^on  and  Lieutenant  Warn;n  have  been  tre,,uentlv  alluded  to    ,  Vhese    Ss 

9.  Lieutenant,  afterward  Captain  Charles  Wilkes,  U.  S.  Navv  se  o  t  ii  18'18 
and,  after  a  long  voyage  of  discovery  in  South  An.erica.  O-canka,  ami  le  Antare' 
tic  continent,  made  San  I-Vancisco  on  August  II,  1841  It  is  remnrUl  1  tW ti^' 
officer's  party  were  actually  pitched  upon'he  spot  (N^w  Ilelve  ^0^"'  a;i':'„K 
Sacramento  C.tv)  where  Californian  gold  was  dug  by  the  Mormons 

10.  Captain  U.  B.  Marcy,  U.  S.  Army,  "discovered  and  explored,  located  ond 
marked  out  the  wagon-road  from  Fort  Smith,  Arkansas,  to  Santa  F:^  New  Srexi- 
00.       J  ho  road  oxj>lorer8,  however,  arc  too  numerous  to  specify 

em  ;„  1  r™"''  V/"  ''^'";p"«'"f  Washington  Territory,  surveyed  in  18r.3  the  nnrlh- 
cm  land  ,,roposcd  for  a  I'm'ific  railway  near  the  47-49"  parallels,  from  St.  Pa,  1  to 
rjiget  Sound.  No  portion  of  that  line  had  been  visited  since  the  duvs  of  Lewi  and 
Clarke,  except  a  small  portion  toward  the  Pacific  Ocean  " 

rr.lfnn!'iT'"i'"  ""^""'.7'  ^'"\'?'  ''^'"**"'  Topographical  Engineers,  accompanied  bv 
o'^iSvKoIli^t.'"''  ''""^'^'^■^'  "^""  '''''^  -''■-'"«  "-  '-^— - 
•  Sticklers  for  strict  democracy  in  tho  Unitcd-Statrs  maintain,  on  the  principle 
hat  the  least  ,H,ssiblo  ,K,wcr  should  Ih,  .lelcgate.l  to  the  federal  government,  that  tic 
transmission  o  correspondencel,  no  mo,.,  a  national  eni.ecrn  than  the  c.„  s  r  et  m 
of  railways  an.l  tc  egraphs  or  the  transit  of  passengers  «n.l  goods.  The  ,,rcs,.nt  s^ 
tem  w««  borrowed  from  the  monopolies  of  Euro,-,  and  was  introduced   nt^  Amert 


Chap.  III.     MICHAEL  MARTIN'S  STORE.—AN  ORIGINAL. 


173 


We  then  ran  down  the  river  valley,  which  was  here  about  one 
mile  in  breadth,  in  a  smooth  flooring  of  clay,  sprinkled  with  wa- 
ter-rolled pebbles,  overgrown  in  parts  with  willov.'",  wUd  cherry, 
buffalo  berries,  and  quaking  asp.  Macarthy  pointed  out  in  the 
road-side  a  rough  grave,  furnished  with  the  normal  tomb-stone, 
two  pieces  of  wagon-board :  it  was  occupied  by  one  Farren,  who 
had  fallen  by  the  revolver  of  the  redoubtable  Slade.  Presently 
we  came  to  the  store  of  Michael  Martin,  an  honest  Creole,  who 
vended  the  staple  of  prairie  goods.  Champagne,  bottled  cocktail, 
"eye-opener,"  and  other  liquors,  dry  goods — linen  drapery — a 
few  fancy  goods,  ribbons,  and  finery ;  brandied  fruits,  jams  and 
jellies,  potted  provisions,  buckskins,  moccasins,  and  so  forth. 
Hearing  that  Lieutenant  Dana  was  e?i  route  for  Camp  Floyd,  he 
requested  him  to  take  charge  of  $500,  to  be  paid  to  Mr.  Living- 
ston, the  sutler,  and  my  companion,  with  the  obligingness  that 
marked  his  every  -ztioa,  agreed  to  deliver  the  dollars;  suuve  the 
judgment  of  God  in  the  shape  of  Indians,  or  "  White  Indians."* 
At  the  store  we  noticed  a  paralytic  man.  This  original  lived 
under  the  delusion  that  it  was  impossible  to  pass  the  Devil's  Gate : 
his  sister  had  sent  for  him  to  St.  Louis,  and  his  friends  tried  to 
transport  him  eastward  in  chairs ;  the  only  result  was  that  he  ran 
away  before  reaching  the  Gate,  and  after  some  time  was  brought 
back  by  Indians. 

Eesuming  our  journey,  we  passed  two  places  where  trains  of 
fifty-one  wagons  were  burned  in  1857  by  the  Mormon  Eangers : 
the  black  stains  had  bitten  into  the  ground  like  the  blood-marks 

ica  at  a  time  when  individual  enterprise  was  inadequate  to  the  task ;  in  the  year  one 
of  the  Republic  it  became,  under  the  direction  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  a  state  depart- 
ment, and,  though  men  argue  in  the  abstract,  few  care  to  propose  a  private  mail 
system,  which  would  undertake  the  management  of  some  27,000  scattered  offices 
and  40,000  poorly  paid  clerks. 

On  this  line  we  saw  all  the  evils  of  the  contract  system.  The  requisite  regularity 
and  quickness  was  neglected,  letters  and  pupers  weio  often  lost,  the  mail-bnps  were 
wetted  or  thrown  carelessly  upon  the  ground,  and  those  intrusted  to  the  conductors 
wore  perhaps  destroyed.  Both  parties  complain— the  postmaster  that  the  contract- 
ors seek  to  drive  too  hard  a  bargain  with  the  department,  and  the  contractors  that 
they  are  carrying  the  mails  at  a  loss.  Since  the  restoration  (in  1858)  of  the  postal 
communication  with  the  United  States  which  was  interrupted  in  18r.7,  the  Mormons 
attempt  to  secure  good  service  by  advertising  their  grievances,  and  with  tolerable 
success.  Postmaster  Morrill— a  Gentile— complained  energetically  of  the  mail  serv- 
ice during  the  last  year,  that  letters  were  wetted  and  jumbled  together,  two  of  one 
month  perhaps  and  one  of  another ;  that  magazines  often  anived  four  months  after 
date,  and  that  thirty  sacks  left  at  Rocky  Ridge  were  lost.  The  conseqiieneo  was 
that  during  my  stay  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City  the  contractors  did  their  duty. 

When  salaries  are  srarUl  and  families  large,  jjost-offlcc  robberies  must  at  times  be 
expected.  The  postal  deportment  liave  long  adopted  the  system  of  registered  let- 
ters :  upon  payment  of  five  cents  instead  of  three,  the  'etter  is  jilaced  in  a  separate 
bag,  entered  separately  in  the  office  books,  forwarded  with  certain  i)reeautions,  and 
delivered  to  the  address  only  after  a  receipt  from  the  recipient.  But  the  depart- 
ment disclaims  all  responsibility  in  ease  of  loss  or  theft,  and  the  only  value  of  the 
higher  stamp  is  a  somewhat  superior  facility  of  tracking  the  document  that  bears  it. 

*  A  rnnt  term  for  white  thieves  die^uisod  as  savages,  wliich  has  a  terrible  signill- 
iancy  a  little  further  \Vo«t. 


174 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


m  the  palace  of  Holyrood— a  neat  foundation  for  a  structure  of 
superstition.  Not  far  from  it  was  a  deep  hole,  in  which  the  plun- 
derers had  "cached"  the  iron- work  which  they  were  unable  to 
carry  away.  Emerging  from  the  river  plain  we  entered  upon  an- 
other mauvaise  terre,  with  knobs  and  elevations  of  clay  and  green 
gault,  striped  and  banded  with  lines  of  stone  and  pebbles :  it  was 
a  barren,  desolate  spot,  the  divide  between  the  Green  Eiver  and 
Its  western  influent,  the  shallow  and  somewhat  sluggish  Black's 
Fork.  The  name  is  derived  from  an  old  trader:  it  is  called  by 
the  Snakes  Ongo  Ogwe  Pa,  or  "Pine-tree  Stream ;"  it  rises  in  the 
Bear-Eiver  Mountains,  drains  the  swamps  and  lakelets  on  the  way 
and  bifurcates  in  its  upper  bed,  forming  two  principal  branches' 
Ham's  Fork  and  Muddy  Fork.  ' 

Near  the  Pine-tree  Stream  we  met  a  horse-thief  driving  four 
bullocks :  he  was  known  to  Macarthy,  and  did  not  look  over  com- 
fortable.   Wo  had  now  fallen  into  the  regular  track  of  Mormon 
emigration,  and  saw  the  wayfarers  in  their  worst  plight,  near  the 
end  of  the  journey.     We  passed  several  families,  and  parties  of 
women  and  children  trudging  wearily  along:  most  of  the  children 
were  m  rags  or  half  nude,  and  all  showed  gratitude  when  we  threw 
them  provisions.    The  greater  part  of  the  men  were  armed,  but 
their  weapons  were  far  more  dangerous  to  themselves  and  their 
tellows  than  to  the  enemy.     There  is  not  on  earth  a  race  of  men 
more  ignorant  of  arms  as  a  rule  than  the  lower  grades  of  English  • 
becoming  an  emigrant,  the  mechanic  hears  that  it  may  be  neces- 
sarv  to  beat  off  Indians,  so  he  buys  the  first  old  fire-arm  he  sees 
and  probably  does  damage  with  it.     Only  last  night,  a  father 
crossed  Green  Eiver  to  beg  for  a  piece  of  cloth ;  it  was  intended 
to  shroud  the  body  of  his  child,  which  during  the  eveninrr  had 
been  accidentally  shot,  and  the  station  people  seemed  to  think 
nothing  of  the  accident,  as  if  it  were  of  daily  recurrence.    I  was 
told  of  three^  more  or  less  severe,  that  happened  in  the  course  of 
a  month.    The  Western  Americans,  who  are  mostly  accustomed 
to  the  use  of  weapons,  look  upon  these  awkwardnesses  with  a  pro- 
tound  contempt.     We  were  now  in  a  region  of  graves,  and  their 
presence  in  this  wild  was  not  a  little  suggestive. 

Presently  we  entered  a  valley  in  which  green  grass,  low  and 
dense  willows,  and  small  but  shady  trees,  an  unusually  vif^orous 
vegetation,  refreshed,  as  though  with  living  water,  our*^  eves 
parched  and  dazed  by  the  burning  glare.    Stock  strayed  over 
the  pasture,  and  a  few  Indian  tents  rose  at  the  farther  side  •  the 

view  was  nrobablv  nn.v  nmmV  />7ino«  iMif  -^^  +1 l,i  .-i.  __  1       V  11 


view  was  probably  pa^  gramV  chose,  but  we  tbJughrirspiendidly 
midday  we  reached  Ilam's  Fork,  the  northwestern 


beautiful.    At  midday         

influent  of  Green  Eivcr,  and  there  we  found  a  station.  The 
pleasant  little  stream  is  called  by  the  Indians  Turugempa,  the 
"  Blackfoot  Water. 

Scotchman — "  Daw- 
and  filth  were  worse 


The  station  was  kept  by  an  Irishman  and  a 
vid  Lewis :"  it  was  a  disgrace ;  the  squalor  i 


Chap.  III.  THE  DIETY  HOUSE.-A  SCOTCH  IDLER.  ^75 

almost  than  the  two— Cold  Springs  and  Eock  Creek— which  we 
called  our  horrors,  and  which  had  always  seemed  to  be  the  ne 
plus  ultra  of  Western  discomfort.     The  shanty  was  made  of  drv 
stone  piled  up  against  a  dwarf  cliff  to  save  back  wall,  and  ignored 
dooia  and  windows      The  flies— unequivocal  sign  of  unclean 
living!— darkened  the  table  and  covered  every  thing  put  unon 
It;  the  furniture  which  mainly  consisted  of  the  different  parts^  of 
wagons,  was  broken  and  all  in  disorder;  the  walls  were  impure, 
the  floor  filthy     The  reason  was  at  once  apparent.    Two  Irish- 
women sisters,*  were  married  to  Mr.  Dawvicf,  and  the  house  was 
T       ^A  r  J^',    .    noisiest  and  most  rampageous  of  their  kind. 
1  could  hardly  look  upon  the  scene  without  disgust.    The  fair 
ones  had  the  porcine  Irish  face— I  need  hardly  tell  the  reader  that 
there  are  three  orders  of  physiognomy  in  that  branch  of  the  Kel- 
tic tamily  viz    porcme,  equine,  and  simian— the  pig-faced,  the 
horse-faced,  and  the  monkey-faced.     Describing  one  I  describe 
bo  h  sisters;  her  nose  was  "pugged,"  apparently  by  gnawing  hard 
potatoes  before  that  member  had  acquired  firmness  and  consist- 
ency;  her  face  was  powdered  with  freckles;  her  hair,  and,  indeed, 
her  general  costume,  looked,  to  quote  Mr.  Dow's  sermon,  as  thougb 
she  had  been  rammed  through  a  busli  fence  into  a  worid  of  wretch- 
edness and  woe.    Her  dress  was  unwaslied  and  in  tatters,  and  her 
teet  were  bare;  she  would  not  even  take  the  trouble  to  make  for 
herself  moccasins.    Moreover,  I  could  not  but  notice  that,  though 
the  house  contained  two  wives,  it  boasted  only  of  one  cubile  and 
had  only  one  cubiculum.    Suck  things  would  excite  no  surprise 
m  London  or  Naples,  or  even  in  many  of  the  country  parts  of  Eu- 
rope ;  but  here,  where  ground  is  worthless,  where  building  mate- 
rial is  abundant,  and  where  a  few  hours  of  daily  labor  would  have 
made  the  house  look  at  least  respectable,  I  could  not  but  wonder 
at  It.    My  first  impulse  was  to  attribute  the  evil,  uncharitably 
enough,  to  Mormonism ;  to  renew,  in  fact,  the  stock-complaint  of 
nineteen  centuries'  standing — 

"Fcecunda  culpas  secula  nuptias 
rrimum  inquinaverc,  et  genus  ct  domus." 

A  more  extended  acqiiaintance  with  the  regions  west  of  the 
Wasach  taught  me  that  the  dirt  and  discomfort  were  the  growtli 
of  the  land.  To  give  the  poor  devils  their  due,  Dawvid  was  civil 
and  intelligent,  though  a  noted  dawdler,  as  that  rare  phenomenon, 
a  Scotch  idler,  generally  is.  Moreover,  his  wives  were  not  defi- 
cient in  charity ;  several  Indians  came  to  the  door,  and  none  went 
away  without  a  "  bit"  and  a  "  sup."  During  the  process  of  sketch- 
ing one  of  these  men,  a  Snake,  distinguished  by  his  vermilion'd 
hair-parting,  eyes  blackened,  as  if  by  lines  of  soot  or  surma,  and 
delicate  Ilmdoo-like  hands,  my  eye  fell  upon  the  German-silver 

•  A  mnn  (Mormon)  may  even  marry  a  mother  and  her  daughters:  Tisuallv  the 
relntionsliip  with  the  former  is  I'latonie  ;  the  tie,  however,  is  irregular,  and  has'bcen 
contracted  in  Ignorance  of  the  prohibited  degrees.  "«»  ucii. 


IHl 


i 


fPil 


176 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


handle  of  a  Colt's  revolver,  whicli  had  been  stowed  away  under 
the  blankets,  and  a  revolver  in  the  Lamanite's  hands  breeds  evil 
suspicions. 

Again  we  advanced.     The  air  was  like  the  breath  of  a  furnace  • 
the  sun  was  a  blaze  of  fire— accounting,  b^-the-by,  for  the  fact 
that  the  human  nose  in  these  parts  seems  invariably  to  become 
cherry-red  — all  the  nullahs  were  dried  up,  and  the  dust-pillara 
and  mirage  were  the  only  moving  objects  on  the  plain.    Three 
times  we  forded  Black's  Fork,  and  then  debouched  once  more 
upon  a  long  flat.     The  ground  was  scattered  over  with  pebbles 
of  granite,  obsidian,  flint,  and  white,  yellow,  and  smoky  quartz,  all 
water-rolled.    After  twelve  miles  we  passed  Church  Butte,  one 
of  many  curious  formations  lying  to  the  left  hand  or  south  of  the 
road.    This  isolated  mass  of  stiff  clay  has  been  cut  and  ground  by 
wind  and  rain  into  folds  and  hollow  channels  which  from  a  distance 
perfectly  simulate  the  pillars,  groins,  and  massive  buttresses  of  a 
ruinous  Gothic  cathedral.     The  foundation  is  level,  except  where 
masses  have  been  swept  down  by  the  rain,  and  not  a  blade  of 
grass  grows  upon  any  part.    An  architect  of  genius  might  profit- 
ably  study  this  work  of  Nature:  upon  that  subject,  however  I 
shall  presently  have  more  to  say.     The  Butte  is  highly  interest- 
ing in  a  geological  point  of  view;  it  shows  the  elevation  of  the 
adjoining  plains  m  past  ages,  before  partial  deluges  and  the  rains 
of  centuries  had  effected  the  great  work  of  degradation. 

Again  we  sighted  the  pretty  valley  of  Black's  Fork,  whose  cool 
clear  stream  flowed  merrily  over  its  pebbly  bed.    The  road  was 
now  populous  with  Mormon  emigrants ;  some  had  good  teams 
others  hand-carts,  which  looked  like  a  cross  between  a  wheel-bar' 
row  and  a  tax-cart.    There  was  nothing  repugnant  in  the  demean- 
or of  the  party ;  they  had  been  civilized  by  traveling,  and  the 
younger  women,  who  walked  together  and  apart  from'  the  men 
were  not  too  surly  to  exchange  a  greeting.    The  excessive  bar- 
renness of  the  land  presently  diminished;  gentian  and  other  odo- 
riferous herbs  appeared,  and  the  greasewood,  which  somewhat  re- 
minded me  of  the  Sindhian  camel-thorn,  was  of  a  lighter  green 
than  elsewhere,  and  presented  a  favorable  contrast  with  the  dull 
glaucous  hues  of  the  eternal  prairie  sage.    We  passed  a  dwarf 
copse  so  strewed  with  the  bones  of  cattle  as  to  excite  our  astonish- 
ment: Macarthv  told  us  that  it  was  the  place  where  the  2d  Dra- 
goons encamped  in  1857,  and  lost  a  number  of  their  horees  by  cold 
and  starvation     The  wolves  and  coyotes  seemed  to  have  retained 
a  predilection  for  the  spot;  we  saw  troops  of  them  in  their  favor- 
ite   location  '--the  crest  of  some  little  rise,  whence  they  could 
keep  a  sharp  look-out  upon  any  likely  addition  to  their  scanty 

After  sundry  steep  inclines  we  forded  another  little  stream 
with  a  muddy  bed,  shallow,  and  about  thirty  feet  wide  :  it  is  call- 
ed Smiths  Fork,  rises  in  the  "Bridger  Range"  of  the  Uinta  Hills 


Chap.  III.  THE  UNGENIAL  MAN.-"  UNCLE  JACK."  1-7 

and  sheds  into  Black's  Fork,  the  main  drain  of  these  parts  On 
the  other  side  stood  MiUersville,  a  large  ranch  with  a  whofe  row 
of  unused  and  condemned  wagons  drawn  up  on  one  side  We 
arrived  at  5  15  P.M.,  having  taken  three  hours  and  fifteen  min- 
utes to  get  over  twenty  miles.  The  tenement  was  made  of  the 
component  parts  of  vehicles,  the  chaira  had  backs  of  yoke-bows 
and  the  fences  which  surrounded  the  corral  were  of  the  same  ma- 
mnn  on  Jn'  '^TV^  kept  by  one  Holmes,  an  American  Mor- 
mon, and  an  individual  completely  the  reverse  of  genial:  he  dis- 
pensed his  words  as  if  shelling  out  coin,  and  he  was  neveZ-by  us 
at  least— seen  to  smile.     His  wife  was  a  pretty  young  Endish- 

TnTpoWT^n  )f  'T*  '¥  ^'''.^^''  °^^^^  lif/l>^tween  London 
and  Portsmouth ;  when  alone  with  me  she  took  the  opportunity 

^prff  i/^5  T'  ^"'^  questions  about  old  places,  but  this  most  inno- 
cent  fe^e-^-fefe  was  presently  interrupted  by  the  protrusion  through 
the  open  door  of  a  tete  de  mari  au  naturd,  wit£  a  truly  renS 
and  vinegarish  aspect,  which  made  him'look  like  a^calamfty 
After  supplying  us  with  a  supper  which  was  clean  and  neatlv 
served  the  pair  set  out  for  an  evening  ride,  and  toward  night  we 
heard  the  scraping  of  a  viohn,  which^eminded  me  of  Tommlo 


Scarafaggio 


"Detto  il  sega  del  vUlagio 
Perche  suona  il  violino." 


The  "  fiddle"  was  a  favorite  instrument  with  Mr.  Joseph  Smith 
as  he  harp  with  David ;  the  Mormons,  therefore,  at  th?  insSnce 
of  their  prophet,  are  not  a  little  addicted  to  the  use  of  the  bow 
We  spent  a  comfortable  night  at  MiUersville.  After  watchin- 
the  young  moon  as  she  sailed  through  the  depths  of  a  firmament 
unstained  by  the  least  fleck  of  mist,  we  found  some  scattered  vol- 
umes which  rendered  us  independent  of  our  unsocial  Yankee 

We  breakfasted  early  the  next  morninran&lTseS  ac- 
counts  with  the  surly  Holmes,  who  had  infected  -  probably  by 
following  the  example  of  Mr.  Caudle  in  later  life-his^pretty  wife 
with  his  own  surliness.  Shortly  after  starting-at  8  30  A  M - 
we  saw  a  little  clump  of  seven  Indian  lodges,  which  our  experi- 
ence soon  taught  us  were  the  property  of  a  white ;  the  propnVtor 
met  us  on  the  road,  and  was  introduced  with  due  ccreZnv  bv 
Mr. Macarthy.  '« Uncle  Jack" (Robinson,  really)  is  a  werknown 
name  between  South  Pass  and  Great  Salt  Late  CiTy    heTas 

EoO  wtSrj''"?  ^"  '^'  "^7"^^^"^'  ^-^  ^-«  sfv'ed  some 
;{) (5,000,  which  have  been  properly  invested  it  Rt  Inn ,•=.„. 

might  be  expected,  he  prefer's  tfe  /ome  S  adop  Ion  aS  h 
Indian  spouse  who  has  made  him  the  happy  father  of  I  know  no 
Z^Tnht^'^T'  *^,g«°^,riety  and  Ucl  air  farther  east 
Our  road  lay  along  the  valley  of  Black^s  Fork,  which  here  flows 
from  the  southwest  to  the  northeast;  the  botC produced Tn 

M 


.' 


m^' 


rf 


178 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


plenty  luxuriant  grass,  the  dandelion,  and  the  purple  aster,  thick- 
ets of  a  shrub-like  hawthorn  {craloigus),  black  and  white  currants 
the  willow  and  the  cotton-wood.  When  almost  in  sight  of  the 
military  post  we  were  addressed  by  two  young  officers,  one  of 
them  an  assistant  surgeon,  who  had  been  engaged  in  the  health- 
ful and  exciting  pursuit  of  a  badger,  whose  markings,  by-the-by 
greatly  differ  from  the  European ;  they  recognized  the  uniform' 
and  accompanied  us  to  the  station. 

Fort  Bridger  lies  124  miles  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City ;  accord- 
ing to  the  drivers,  however,  the  road  might  be  considerably  short- 
ened. The  position  is  a  fertile  basin  cut  into  a  number  of  bits  by 
Black's  Fork,  which  disperses  itself  into  four  channels  about  1-5 
mile  above  the  station,  and  forms  again  a  single  bed  about  two 
miles  below.  The  fort  is  situated  upon  the  westernmost  islet.  It 
is,  as  usual,  a  mere  cantonment,  without  any  attempt  at  fortifica- 
tion, and  at  the  time  of  my  visit  was  garrisoned  by  two  companies 
of  foot,  under  the  command  of  Captain  F.  Gardner,  of  the  10th 
Regiment.  The  material  of  the  houses  is  pine  and  cedar  brought 
from  the  Uinta  Hills,  whose  black  flanks  supporting  snowy  cones 
rise  at  the  distance  of  about  thirty -five  miles.  They  are  a  sani- 
tarium, except  in  winter,  when  unJier  their  influence  the  mercury 
sinks  to  —20°  F.,  not  much  less  rigorous  than  Minnesota,  and 
they  are  said  to  shelter  grizzly  bears  and  an  abundance  oi" smaller 


game 


The  fort  was  built  by  Colonel  James  Bridger,  now  the  oldest 
trapper  on  the  Rocky  Mountains,  of  whom  Messrs.  Frdmont  and 
Stansbury  have  both  spoken  in  the  highest  terras.    He  divides 
with  Christopher  Carson,  the  Kit  Carson  of  the  Wind  River  and 
the  Sierra  Nevada  explorations,  the  honor  of  being  the  best  guide 
and  interjh-eter  in  the  Indian  country :  the  palm  for  prudence  is 
generally  given  to  the  former;  for  dash  and  hard  fighting  to  the 
latter,  although,  it  is  said,  the  mildest  mannered  of  men.    Colonel 
Bridger,  when  an  Indian  trader,  placed  this  post  upon  a  kind  of 
neutral  ground  between  the  Snakes  and  Crows  (Ilapsaroke)  on 
the  north,  the  Ogalalas  and  other  Sioux  to  the  east,  the  Arapahoes 
and  Cheyenncs  on  the  south,  and  the  various  tribes  of  Yutas 
(Utahs)  on  the  southwest.     lie  had  some  difficulties  with  the  Mor- 
mons, and  Mrs.  Mary  Ettie  Smith,  in  a  volume  concerning  which 
something  will  be  said  at  a  future  opportunity,  veraciously  reports 
his  barbarous  murder,  some  years  ago,  by  the  Danite  band.    He 
was  at  the  time  of  my  visit  absent  on  an  exploratory  expedition 
with  Captain  Raynolds. 

Arrived  at  Fort  Bridger,  our  first  thought  was  to  replenish  our 
whisky-keg :  its  emptiness  was  probably  due  to  the  "  rapid  evap- 
oration in  such  an  elevated  region  imperfectly  protected  by  tim- 
ber ;"  but,  however  that  may  be,  I  never  saw  "liquor  disappear  at 
snc'h  a  rate  before.  Par  parenthho,  our  late  friends  the  officials 
had  scarcely  been  more  fortunate :  they  had  watched  their  whis- 


Chap,  111. 


A  SORE  SUBJECT.— BEER  SPRINGS. 


179 


J 1      t^e  eyes  of  Argus,  yet,  as  the  driver  facetiously  remark- 
ed, though  the  quantity  did  not  diminish  too  rapidly,  the  aualitv 
lost  strength  every  day.     We  were  conducted  by  Judge  Carter  to 
a  building  which  combined  the  function  of  post-office  and  sutler's 
store,  the  judge  being  also  sutler,  and  performing  both  parts  I 
believe,  to  the  satisfaction  of  every  one.     After  lajing  in  an  am- 
ple provision  of  biscuits  for  Miss  May  and  korn-sc&na?ps  for  our- 
selves, we  called  upon  the  commanding  officer,  who  introduced  us 
to  his  officers,  and  were  led  by  Captain  Cumming  to  his  quarters 
where,  by  means  of  chat,  "solace-tobacco,"  and  toddy-which  in 
these  regions  signifies  "cold  with"-we  soon  worked  our  way 
through  the  short  three  quarters  of  an  hour  allowed  us.     The  of- 
ficers complained  very  naturally  of  their  isolation  and  unpleasant 
duty  whicli  principally  consists  in  keeping  the  roads  open  for,  and 
the  Indians  from  cutting  off,  parties  of  unmanageable  emigrknt.. 
ctl'tT""  t^^«  federal  army  as  their  humbllst  servant!    it 
Camp  Scott,  near  Bridger,  the  army  of  the  federal  government 
halted  under  canvas  during  the  severe  winter  of  1857-1858  and 
the  subject  is  still  sore  to  military  ears 

We  left  Bridger  at  10  A.M.     Macarthy  explained  away  the  dis- 
regard for  the  comfort  of  the  public  on  tie  part  of  the  contracted 
in  not  having  a  station  at  the  fort  by  declaring  that  they  could 
obtain  no  land  m  a  government  reservation;  moreover,  that  for- 
age there  would  be  scarce  and  dear,  while  the  continual  influx  of 
Indians  would  occasion  heavy  losses  in  cattle.    At  Bridger  the 
road  forks :  the  northern  line  leads  to  Soda  or  Beer  Springs  *  the 
southern  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City.     Following  the  latter,  wl  cross- 
ed the  rough  timber  bridges  that  spanned  the  net-work  of  streams 
and  entered  upon  another  expanse  of  degraded  ground,  covered 
as  usual  with  water-rolled  pebbles  of  granite  and  porphyry  flint 
and  greenstone.    On  the  left  was  a  butte  with  steep  bl^T  sides 
called  the  Eace-coursc:  the  summit,  a  perfect  mesa,  is  said  to  be 
quite  level,  and  to  measure  exactly  a  mile  round— the  rule  of  the 
American  hippodrome.    Like  these  earth  formations  geperally 
it  points  out  the  ancient  level  of  the  land  before  water  had  wash- 
ed away  the  outer  film  of  earth's  crust.     The  climate  in  this  part 
as  indeed  every  where  between  the  South  Pass  and  the  Great  Salt 

earth^'''S'S'bu[l1lf„r°,if  """°  r/'l"  ^^r^'"''''  *=""°«>'y  *°  ^^  «^™  on  the 
Lurui.     iney  lie  Dut  a  short  distance  east  of  the    unction  of  the  Fort  Hall  And  tli« 

do  iot'Tik-Zn^';  ""  •  "'■^  '""'"''"^  '>'''''  P^^hapB,  40  acres  of  volcanic  RrJund  They 
i  rZV  T^  "f  ""^'' """."  °"'  "^  *''°  ^'''^'^  "f  •»»«.  b"t  hoil  up  directly  from  a  lev- 
le  s"  nor  air  T^tUTT'  l^"'',-""^  ''"«  '«'"'«  »"  «"'!  »'»«^«=  when  exposed  to 
or  so  d  coat  of  scS  ht  In^Zl  ?'«'»"<=«  .before  it, takes  the  formation  oL  crust 
will  ''L2  a  stone  to  th?i,n?I.    /•'!''  '^''mmxmd  boiling  of  any  of  these  fountains 

Smo  'S'JlT  ^^"t[  '"^  --^""'-  -erafff  the^f^es^-rK  ou^ik- 
"ovoH    w.  ?  •  f-  .  ^n",-^''!"  ",1""^  '■'■°'"  ''"'"''  °f  these  very  beautifulIy.-Hom'" 


$ 


■sasHH 


41 


180 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


Lake  Valley,  was  an  exaggeration  of  the  Italian,  with  hot  days 
cool  nights,  and  an  incomparable  purity  and  tenuity  of  atmosphere! 
We  pa.ssed  on  the  way  a  party  of  emigrants,  numbering  359  souls 
and  driving  39  wagons.  They  were  commanded  by  the  patriarch 
of  Mormondom,  otherwise  Captain  John  Smith,  the  eldest  son  of 
Hyrum  Smith,  a  brother  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  the  Prophet,  and 
who,  being  a  child  at  the  time  of  the  murderous  affair  at  Carthage 
escaped  being  coiffe'd  with  the  crown  of  martyrdom.  He  rose  to 
the  patriarchate  on  the  18th  of  February,  1855 ;  his  predecessor 
was  "  old  John  Smith" — uncle  to  Mr.  Joseph,  and  successor  to 
Mr.  Hyrum  Smith — who  died  the  28d  of  May,  1854.  He  was  a 
fair-complexioned  man,  with  light  hair.  His  followers  accepted 
gratefully  some  provisions  with  which  wo  could  afford  to  part. 

After  passing  the  Mormons  we  came  upon  a  descent  which  ap- 
peared little  removed  from  an  angle  of  35°,  and  suggested  the 
propriety  of  walking  down.  There  was  an  attempt  at  a  zigzag, 
and,  for  the  benefit  of  wagons,  a  rough  wall  of  stones  had  been 
run  along  the  sharper  corners.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  re- 
mounted, and,  passing  through  a  wooded  bottom,  reached  at  12  15 
P.M.— after  fording  the  Big  Muddy— Little  Muddy  Creek,  upon 
whose  banks  stood  the  station.  Both  these  streams  are  branches 
of  the  Ham's  Fork  of  Green  River;  and,  according  to  the  well- 
known  "rule  of  contrairy,"  their  waters  arc  clear  as  crystal, show- 
ing every  pebble  in  their  beds. 

Little  Atuddy  was  kept  by  a  Canadian,  a  chatty,  lively,  good-hu- 
ored  fellow  blessed  with  a  sour  English  wife.     Possibly  the  heat 


mo 


— tlic  thermometer  showed  95°  F,  in  the  shade — had  turned  her 
temper;  fortunately,  it  had  not  similarly  affected  the  milk  and 
cream,  which  were  both  unusually  good.  Jean-Baptiste,  having 
mistaken  mo  for  a  Fraiu^aise  ilc  France,  a  being  which  ho  seemed 
to  regard  as  little  lower  than  the  angels-— I  was  at  no  pains  to  dis- 
abuse hini— was  profuse  in  his  q^uestionings  concerning  his  ini- 
I^erial  majesty,  the  emperor,  carelully  conlonnding  him  with  the 
first  of  the  family  ;  ancl  so  pleased  was  he  w  itii  my  responses,  that 
for  the  first  time  on  that  route  1  found  a  man  ready  to  si)urn  cct 
anhnnlfiwcc  qu'on  nppdle  la  pike  ik  cinq  /ratios— in  other  words 
the  "almighty  dollar.^'  ' 

We  bade  adieu  to  Little  Muddy  at  noon,  and  entered  a  new 
country,  a  broken  land  of  spurs  and  hollows,  in  parts  abaolutclv 
bare,  in  others  clothed  with  a  thick  vegetation.  Curiously  shai)C(I 
hills,  and  bluffs  of  red  earth  capped  with  a  clay  which  much  ro- 
scmbled  snow,  bore  a  thick  growth  of  tall  firs  and  pines  whoso 
sombre  uniform  contrasted  strangely  witli  the  brilliant  Icek-liko, 
excessive  green  foliage,  and  the  tall,  note-pai)er-colored  trunks  of 
the  ravine-loving  quaking  asp  {Popihis  trnnuloi(fr.s).  The  mix- 
ture of  colors  wiw  bizarre  in  the  extreme,  and  tlio  lay  of  tlio  land, 
an  uncouth  system  of  converging,  diverging,  and  j)arall('l  ridges,' 
with  deep  divisions— in  one  of  theso  ravines,  which  is  unusually 


Chap.  III. 


QUAIONG-ASP  HILL.-SULPHUR  CREEK. 


181 

broad  and  grassy  rise  the  so-called  Copperas  Springs-was  hard- 
ly less  striking.     We  ran  winding  along  a  crest  of  rising  ground 
passing  rapidly,  by  way  of  farther  comparison,  two  wretched  Mor- 
mons, man  and  woman,  who  were  driving,  at  a  snail's  pace,  a  per- 

S&^'a^  ^h1i.^^^^^  ^  ^^^^  "^^^^^^  ^^-^  ^^P-  ^^^  -- 

thn^";t<;"S;t?  ?  '  ^T- '.^'"^  *?.*^°  ^^^^c^^'  '^  1000  feet  higher 
than  the  South  Pass,  which  would  exalt  its  station  to  8400  feet- 
other  authorities,  however,  reduce  it  to  7900.  The  descent  was 
long  and  rapid-so  ranid,  indeed,  that  oftentimes  when  the  block 
ot  wood  which  formed  our  brake  dropped  a  bit  of  the  old  shoc- 

cused  for  feeling,  that  catching  of  the  breath  that  precedes  the 
nrst  five-barred  gate  after  a  night  of  "  heavy  wet."  the  sides  of 
the  road  were  rich  in  vegetation,  stunted  oak,  black-jack,  and  box 
elder  of  the  stateliest  stature ;  above  rose  the  wild  cherry,  and  the 
fnTf"  Ti/^T'^  '^''  ^"^^^^  ^^^^^^-  The  descent,  bSides  be- 
'°s1.  W  '  i^f '  ""'^V  m'  ^^«««^i"gly  devious,  and  our  frequent 

shaves  —a  train  of  Mormon  wagons  was  crawling  down  at  the 
same  time-made  us  fee  somewhat  thankful  that  we  reached  he 
bottom  without  broken  bones. 

The  train  was  commanded  by  a  Captain  Murphy,  who,  as  one 
might  expect  from  the  name,  had  hoisted  the  Stars  and  Strh,es- 
it  was  the  only  instance  of  such  loyalty  seen  by  us  on  the  Plains 
The  emigrants  had  left  Council  Blufii  on  the  20th  of  June  an 
unusually  late  date,  and,  though  w  ather-beaten,  all  looked  well 
Inspirited  by  our  success  in  surmounting  the  various  difficulties 
of  the  way,  wo  "poked  fun"  at  an  old  Yorkshireman,  who  was 
assumed,  by  way  of  mirth,  to  be  a  Ca-Iebs  in  search  of  polvgamy 
at  an  epoch  of  life  when  perhaps  the  blessing  might  come  too 
Jate;  and  at  an  cxceedinglv  plain  middle-aged  and  full-blooded 
negro  woman,  who  was  fairly  warncd-the  children  of  Ham  are 
not  admitted  to  the  communion  of  the  Saints,  and  consequently  to 
he  forgiveness  of  sins  mid  a  free  scat  in  Paradisc-that  she  was 
"carrying  coals  to  Newcastle." 

As  the  ra}^  of  the  sun  began  to  slant  wo  made  Sulphur  Creek : 
It  lies  at  the  f(v>t  of  a  mountain  called  ]{iin  Base,  because  it  is  the 
eastern  wall  ol  the  great  iiihuul  basin ;  westward  of  this  point  the 
waters  can  no  longer  reach  the  Atlantic  or  the  Pacific  each  is 
destined  to  feed  the  lakes,  ' 

"  Nee  Ocenni  j)crvcnit  ml  undns." 

Beyond  Sulphur  Creek,  too,  the  face  of  tlie  country  changes  •  the 
sedimentary  dopoHiUs  are  no  longer  seen;  the  land  is  broken  and 
confused  upheaved  into  Inigo  masses  of  rock  and  mountains  bro- 
ken  by  deep  kanyons,  ravines,  and  water-gaps,  and  drained  by  in- 
numerable streamlets.  TLe  exceedingly  irregular  lay  of  the  land 
niak(>s  the  road  devious,  and  the  want  of  level  ground,  which  is 
lound  only  m  dwarf  parks  and  prairillons,  would  greatly  add  to 


mmmsi 


182 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


the  expense  of  a  railway.    We  crossed  the  creek,  a  fetid  stagnant 
water,  about  t^n  feet  wide,  lying  in  a  bed  of  black  infected  mud : 
during  the  spring  rains,  when  flowing,  it  is  said  to  be  wholesome 
enough.     On  the  southern  side  of  the  valley  there  are  some  fine 
fountains,  and  on  the  eastern  are  others  strongly  redolent  of  sul- 
phur ;  broad  seams  of  coal  crop  out  from  the  northern  bluffs,  and 
about  a  mile  distant  in  the  opposite  direction  are  the  Tar  Springs 
useful  for  greasing  wagon-wheels  and  curing  galled-backed  uorses! 
Following  the  valley,  which  was  rough  and  broken  as  it  well 
could  be,  we  crossed  a  small  divide,  and  came  upon  the  plain  of 
the  Bear  Eiver,  a  translation  of  the  Indian  Kuij^apa.    n  is  one 
of  the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.     Head- 
ing in  the  Uinta  Eange  to  the  east  of  Kamas  Prairie,*  it  flows 
with  a  tortuous  course  to  the  northwest,  till,  reaching  Beer  Springs 
it  turns  sharpl}'-  round  with  a  horseshoe  bend,  and  sets  to  the 
southwest,  falling  into  the  general  reservoir  at  a  bight  called  Bear- 
Eiver  Bay.     According  to  the  mountaineers,  it  springs  not  far 
from  the  sources  of  the  Weber  River  and  of  the  Timpanogos  Wa- 
ter.    Coal  was  found  some  years  ago  upon  the  banks  of  the  Bear 
River,  and  more  lately  near  Weber  River  and  Silver  Creek.     It 
is  the  easternmost  point  to  which  Mormonism  can  extend  main 
fork;  for  fugitives  from  justice  "over  Bear  River"  is  like  "over 
Jordan."    The  aspect  of  the  valley,  here  half  a  mile  broad,  was 
prepossessing.     Beyond  n  steep  terrace,  or  step  which  compelled 
us  all  to  dismount,  the  clear  stream,  about  400  feet  in  width,  flowed 
through  narrow  lines  of  willows,  cotton-wood,  and  large  trees 
which  waved  in  the  cool  refreshing  western  wind ;  grass  carpeted 
the  middle  levels,  and  above  all  rose  red  cliffs  and  buttresses  of 
frowning  rock. 

Wc  reached  the  station  at  5  30  P.M.     The  valley  was  dotted 

with  the  tents  of  the  Mormon  emigrants,  and  wo  received  sundry 

visits  of  curiosity;  the  visitors,  mostly  of  the  sex  conventionally 

termed  the  fair,  contented  themselves  with  entering,  sitting  down 

looking  hard,  tittering  to  one  another,  and  departing  with  I'arthian 

glances  that  had  little  power  to  hurt.     From  the  men  we  heard 

tidinjra  of  "  a  massacree"  of  emigrants  in  the  north,  and  a  defeat 

of  Indians  m  the  west.     Mr.  Mvers,  the  station-master,  was  an 

English  Saint,  who  had  lately  taken  to  himself  a  fifth  wife,  after 

severally  divorcing  tlio  others;  his  la.^t  choice  was  not  without 

comeliness,  but  her  reserve  was  extreme;  she  could  hanllv  be 

coaxed  out  of  a  "  Yes,  sir."     I  found  \\x.  Myers  diligently  i)brus- 

ing  a  translation  of  "  Voir  y'.s  Ruins  of  Kmpire ;"  we  had  a  chat 

about  the  Old  and  the  Now  Country,  which  led  us  to  8leei)iiig- 

teme.    I  had  hero  a  curious  instance  of  the  effect  of  the  assoeia- 

•  So  callcil  from  tho  C'lw.MsVn  runilftita,  the  Pommo  do*  Prnirion  iir  I'oinnK' 
ninnche  of  tho  Cnnaclinim,  nnil  t!)-«  jtrnirio  turnip  hiiiI  l>ri'a<lriM>t  of  tlii?  WfM.iii 
hnntcri.  Th<-  KnnmH  I'ruiri.-  ix  a  j.rLtty  littlo  bit  of  clear  niul  level  KrounJ  iieur 
the  hcftil  of  the  TimimiiogDK  liivcr. 


Chap.  III. 


ROUGH-AND-TUMBLE.— MR.  MACARTHY. 


183 


tion  of  words,  in  hearing  a  bjr-stander  apply  to  the  Founder  of 
Christianity  the  "Mr."  which  is  the  "■Kynos"  of  the  West,  and  is 
always  prefixed  to  "Joseph  Smith:"  he  stated  that  the  mission 
of  the  latter  was  "  far  ahead  of"  that  of  the  former  prophet,  which 
by-the-by,  is  not  the  strict  Mormon  doctrine.  My  companion  and 
his  family  preferred  as  usual  the  interior  of  the  mail-wagon,  and 
it  was  well  that  they  did  so ;  after  a  couple  of  hours  entered  Mr. 
Macarthy,  very  drunk  and  "fighting  mad."  lie  called  for  sup- 
per, but  supper  was  past  and  gone,  so  he  supped  upon  "fids"  of 
raw  meat.  Excited  by  this  lively  food,  he  began  a  series  of  cap- 
rioles, which  ended,  as  might  be  expected,  in  a  rough-and-tumble 
with  the  other  three  youths  who  occupied  the  hard  floor  of  the 
ranch.  To  Mr.  Macarthy's  language  on  that  occasion  liorresco 
referens ;  every  word  was  apparently  English,  but  so  perverted, 
misused,  and  mangled,  that  the  homo  reader  would  hardly  have 
distinguished  it  from  High-Dutch :  c.  g.,  "  I'm  intirc  mad  as  a  meat- 
axe ;  now  du  don't,  I  tell  yc ;  say,  you,  shut  up  in  a  winkin',  or 
1 11  be  chawed  up  if  I  don't  run  over  you ;  'can't  come  that  'ere 
tarnal  carryin'  on  over  m^,"  and — 0  si  sic  omnia!  As  no  weap- 
ons, revolvers,  or  bowic-kuives  were  to  the  fore,  I  thought  the 
best  thing  was  to  lie  still  and  let  the  storm  blow  over,  which  it 
did  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Then,  all  serene,  Mr.  Macarthy  call- 
ed for  a  pipe,  excused  himself  ceremoniously  to  himself  for  taking 
the  liberty  with  the  "Cap's."  meerschaum  solely  upon  the  grounds 
that  it  was  the  only  article  of  the  kind  to  bo  found  at  so  late  an 
hour,  and  presentlv  fell  into  a  deep  slumber  upon  a  sleeping  con- 
trivance composed  of  a  table  for  the  upper  and  a  chair  for  the 
lower  portion  of  his  person.  I  envied  him  the  favors  of  Mor- 
pheus: the  fire  soon  died  out,  the  cold  wind  whistled  through  the 
crannies,  and  the  floor  was  knotty  and  uneven. 

Echo  Kanyon,     August  2ith. 

At  8  15  A.M.  wo  were  once  more  en  voyage.  Mr.  Macarthy 
was  very  rcd-oyed  as  he  sat  on  the  stool  of  penitence :  what  seem- 
ed to  vox  him  most  was  liaving  lost  certain  newspapers  directed 
to  a  friend  and  committed  to  his  private  trust,  a  mode  of  insuring 
their  safe  arrival  concerning  which  he  had  the  day  before  ex- 
pressed tlie  highest  opinion.  After  fording  Bear  River— this  part 
of  the  land  was  (|uite  a  grave-yard — wc  passed  over  rough  ground, 
and,  descending  into  a  bush,  were  shown  on  a  ridge  to  the  right 
a  huge  Stonchcngc,  a  crown  of  broken  and  somewhat  lanceolate 
perpendicular  conglomerates  or  cemented  pudding-stones  called 
not  inapjirojiriatoly  Needle  Rocks.  At  Kgan's  Creek,  a  tributary 
of  tlie  T  ellow  Creek,  the  wild  geraniums  and  the  willows  flour- 
ished despite  the  six  feet  of  snow  which  sometimes  lies  in  these 
bottoms.  We  tlion  crossod  Yellow  Creek,  a  water  trending  nortli- 
eastward,  and  f(!oding,  like  those  hitherto  forded.  Rear  Riv(>r;  the 
bottom,  a  fine  broad  meadow,  was  a  favorite  camping-ground,  as 


184 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  Hi. 


the  many  fire-places  proved.    Beyond  the  stream  we  ascended 
^ellow-Lreek  Hill,  u  steep  chain  which  divides  the  versant  of  the 
Jiear  liiver  eastward  from  that  of  Weber  Eiver  to  the  west     The 
ascent  might  be  avoided,  but  the  view  from  the  summit  is  a  fine 
panorama.     The  horizon  behind  us  is  girt  by  a  mob  of  hills 
Bndger's  Range,  silver-veined  upon  a  dark  blue  ground ;  nearer' 
mountains  and  rocks,  cones  and  hog-backs,  are  scattered  about  in 
admirable  confusion,  divided  by  shaggy  rollers  and  dark  ravine^ 
each  with  its  own  little  water-courae.    In  front  the  eye  runs  dowii 
the  long  bright  red  line  of  Echo  Kanyon,  and  rests  with  aston- 
.     ishment  upon  its  novel  and  curious  features,  the  sublimity  of  its 
broken  and  jagged  peaks,  divided  by  dark  abysses,  and  based 
upon  huge  piles  of  disjointed  and  scattered  rock.     On  the  right 
about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  road,  and  near  the  head  of  the  kan- 
yon, is  a  place  that  adds  human  interest  to  the  scene     Cache 
Cave  is  a  dark  deep,  natural  ti  nnel  in  the  rock,  which  has  shel- 
tered many  a  hunter  and  trader  from  wild  weather  and  wilder 
men:  the  wall  is  probably  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  whose 
whiteness^is  set  oft  by  the  ochrish  brick-red  of  the  ravine  below 
l^vjho  Kanyon  has  a  total  length  of  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles 
and  runs  in  a  southeasterly  direction  to  the  Veber  Eiver     Near 
the  head  It  is  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  but  its 
irregularity  IS  such  that  no  average  breadth  can  be  assigned  to  it. 

trom  300  to  500  feet;  they  are  denuacd  and  water-washed  by  the 
storms  that  break  upon  them  under  the  influence  of  southerly 
gales;  their  strata  here  are  almost  i.urizontal;  they  are  inclined 
at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  the  strike  is  northeast  and  southwest  The 
opposite  or  southern  flank,  being  protected  from  ihe  dashing  and 
weathering  of  rain  and  wind,  is  a  mass  of  rounded  soil-clad  hills 
or  sloping  slabs  of  rock,  earth-veiled,  and  growing  tussocks  of 
grass  Between  them  runs  the  clear,  swift,  bubbling  stream  in 
a  pebbly  bed  now  hugging  one,  then  the  other  side  of  the  chasm- 

r  .^J^'u  '^''■'•^''^  '^'^''^'^y  ^'-'^'''^  *''^  «"f^«*^c;  the  banks  or  benches 
of  stift-alluvmni  are  not  unfrequently  twenty  feet  high;  in  places 
1  IS  par  illy  dammed  by  the  hand  of  Nature,  and  every  where 
the  watery  margin  is  of  the  brightest  green,  and  overgrown  with 
grass,  nettles,  willow  thickets,  in  which  the  hop  is  conspicuous 
nuaking  a.'.p  and  other  taller  trees.  Echo  Kanyon  has  iut  one 
fault:  Its  sublimity  will  make  all  similar  features  look  tame 

VV  e  entered  the  kanyon  in  somewhat  a  serious  frame  of  mind- 
our  team  was  headed  by  a  pair  of  exceedingly  restive  mules-  we 
had  remon.strated  against  the  experimental  driving  being  done 
upon  our  vile  bodies,  but  the  reply  was  that  the  animals  must  be 
harnessed  at  some  time.  We  could  not,  however,  but  remark  the 
wonderful  picturesfpieness  of  a  scene— of  a  nature  which  in  narts 
Rocined  lately  to  have  undergone  w.me  grand  enfnstrophe  Tho 
gigantic  red  wall  on  our  right  was  divided  into  distinct  blocks  or 


Chap.  III. 


•J^ 


ECHO  KANYON.— ART  IN  AMERICA. 


185 


quarries  by  a  multitude  of  minor  lateral  kanyons,  •whic'i  after 
rains,  add  their  tribute  to  the  main  artery,  and  each  block  was 
subdivided  by  the  crumbling  of  the  softer  and  the  resistance  of 
the  harder  material — a  clay  conglomerate.  The  color  varied  in 
places  from  white  and  green  to  yellow,  but  for  the  most  part  it 
was  a  dull  ochrish  red,  that  brightened  up  almost  to  a  straw  tint 
where  the  sunbeams  fell  slantingly  upon  it  from  the  strip  of 
blue  above.  All  served  to  set  off  the  curious  architecture  of  the 
smaller  masses.  A  whole  Petra  was  there,  a  system  of  project- 
ing prisms,  pyramids,  and  pagoda  towers,  a  variety  of  form  that 
enabled  you  to  see  whatever  your  peculiar  vanity  might  be— col- 
umns, porticoes,  fa9ades,  and  pedestals.  Twin  lines  of  bluffs,  a 
succession  of  buttresses  all  fretted  and  honeycombed,  a  double 
row  of  steeples  slipped  from  perpendicularity,  frowned  at  each 
other  across  the  gorge.  And  the  wondrous  variety  was  yet  more 
varied  by  the  kaleidoscopic  transformation  caused  by  change  of 
position :  at  every  different  point  the  same  object  bore  a  different 
aspect. 

And  now,  while  wo  are  dashing  over  the  bouldercd  crossings- 
while  our  naughty  mules,  as  they  tear  down  the  short  steep  pitch- 
es, swing  the  wheels  of  the  mail-wagon  within  half  a  foot  of  the 
high  bank's  crumbling  edge ;  while  poor  Mrs.  Dana  closes  her 
eyes  and  clasps  her  husband's  hand,  and  Miss  May,  happily  un- 
conscious of  all  peril,  amuses  herself  by  perscveringly  pcrchin" 
upon  the  last  toe  that  I  should  have  been  inclined  to  offer,  the 
monotony  of  the  risk  may  bo  relieved  by  diverting  our  thoughts 
to  the  lessons  taught  by  the  scenery  around. 

An  American  artist  might  extract  from  such  scenery  as  Church 
Butte  and  Echo  Kanyon  a  system  of  architecture  as  original  and 
national  as  Egypt  ever  borrowed  from  her  sandstone  ledges,  or 
the  North  of  Europe  from  the  solemn  depths  of  her  fir  forests. 
But  Art  does  not  at  present  exist  in  America ;  as  among  their 
forefathers  farther  east,  of  artists  they  liavc  i)lcnty,  of  Art  noth- 
ing. Wo  can  explain  the  presence  of  the  ])lienomcnon  in  En- 
gland, where  that  grotesque ness  and  bizarrcrie  of  taste  which  is 
observable  in  the  uneducated,  and  which,  despite  collections  and 
art-missions,  hardly  disappears  in  those  who  have  studied  the  pur- 
est models,  is  the  natural  gruwtli  of  man's  senses  and  perceptions 
exposed  for  generation  after  generation  to  tlio  unseen,  unceasing, 
cver-activo  effect  of  homely  objects,  the  di'solate  aspects  of  the 
long  and  dreary  winters,  and  tlio  humidity  which  shrouds  the  vis- 
ible world  with  its  dull  gray  coloring.  Sliould  any  one  question 
the  fact  that  Art  is  not  yet  flnglish,  let  him  but  place  himself  in 
the  centre  of  the  noblest  site  iu  Europe,  Trafalgar  Square,  and 
own  that  no  city  in  the  civilized  world  ever  presented  sueii  a'pcr- 
l\^ct  wunplo.  of  barbarous  incongruity,  from  miLst-headed  Nelson 
with  liis  coil  biOiind  him,  the  work  of  the  Satirist's  "ouu  man  and 
small  boy,"  to  tho  two  contemptible  squirting  things  that  throw 


II 


^™nf 


186 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


water  upon  tlie  pavement  at  hia  feet.  Mildly  has  the  "Thunder- 
er described  it  as  the  "  chosen  home  of  exquisite  dullness  and 
stilted  mediocrity."  The  cause  above  assigned  to  the  fact  is  at 
least  reasonable.  Every  traveler,  who,  after  passing  through  the 
fruitful  but  unpicturesque  orchard  grounds  lying  between  La 
Mancho  and  Paris,  and  the  dull  flats,  with  their  melancholy  pop- 
lar lines,  between  Paris  and  Lyons,  arrives  at  Avignon,  and  ob- 
serves the  picturesqueness  which  every  object,  natural  or  artificial 
begins  to  assume,  the  grace  and  beauty  which  appear  even  in  the 
humblest  details  of  scenery,  must  instinctively  leel  that  he  is  en- 
tering the  land  of  Art.  Not  of  that  Art  which  depends  for  de- 
velopment upon  the  cftbrts  of  a  few  exceptional  individuals,  but 
the  living  Art  which  the  constant  contemplation  of  a  glorious 
nature, 

*  "  That  holy  Virgin  of  the  sage's  creed," 

makes  part  of  a  people's  organization  and  development.  Art 
heavenly  maid,  is  not  easily  seduced  to  wander  far  from  her  place 
of  birth.  Born  and  cradled  upon  the  all-lovely  shores  of  that  in- 
land sea,  so  choicely  formed  by  Nature's  hand  to  become  the 
source  and  centre  of  mankind's  civilization,  she  loses  health  and 
spirits  J II  the  frigid  snowy  north,  while  in  the  tropical  regions—  ■ 
Nubia  and  India— her  mind  is  vitiated  by  the  rank  and  luxuri- 
ant scenery  around  her.  A  "pretty  bit  of  home  scenery,"  with 
dumpy  church  tower  —  battlemented  as  the  house  of  worship 
ought  not  to  bo  — on  the  humble  hill,  red  brick  cottages,  with 
straight  tiled  roofs  and  parallelogramic  casements,  and  dwelling- 
houses  all  stiff-ruled  lines  and  iiard  sharp  angles,  the  straight 
road  and  the  trimmed  hedgerow  —  such  scenery,  I  assert,  never 
can  make  an  artistic  people;  it  can  only  lead,  in  fact,  to  a  na- 
tion s  last  phase  of  artistic  bathos — a  Trafalgar  Square. 

The  Anglo-Americans  have  other  excuses,  but  not  this.    Their 
broad  lands  teem  with  varied  beauties  of  the  highest  order  which 
It  would  be  tedious  to  enumerate.     They  have  used,  for  instance 
the  Indian  corn  for  the  acanthus  in  their  details  of  architecture 
—why  can  not  they  try  a  higher  flight?    Man  may  not,  we  read- 
ily grant,  expect  to  be  a  great  poet  because  Niagara  is  a  great 
cataract;  yet  the  prcsenuo  of  such  objects  must  quicken  the  imae- 
ination  of  the  civilized  as  of  the  savage  race  that  preceded  him 
It  13  true  that  in  America  the  class  tliat  can  devote  itself  exclu- 
sively to  the  cultivation  and  the  study  of  refinement  and  art  is 
still,  comparatively  speaking,  small;  that  the  care  of  politics  the 
culture  of  science,  mechanical  and  theoretic,  and  the  pursuit  of 
cash,  have  at  present  more  hold  upon  the  national  mind  than 
what  It  IS  disposed  to  consider  the  effeminating  influence)  of  the 
huinanizing  studies;  tliat,  moreover,  the  cllbrts  of  youthful  gen- 
ius 111  the  body  corporate,  as  in  the  individual,  are  invariably 
imitative,  leading  through  the  ])rogressivO  degrees  of  reflection 
and  reproduction  to  originality.     But,  valid  as  they  are  these 


Chap.  III. 


ECIIO  STATION.— AN  EXPERIMENT. 


187 


reasons  will  not  long  justify  such  freaks  as  the  Americo-Grecian 
capitol  at  Kichmond,  a  barn  with  the  tritest  of  all  exordiums  a 
jortico  which  is  original  in  one  point  only,  viz.,  that  it  wants  the 
Dortico's  only  justification — steps ;  or  the  various  domes  original- 
".  y  borrowed  from  that  bulb  which  has  been  demolished  at  Wash- 
ington, scattered  over  the  country,  and  suggesting  the  idea  that 
the  shape  has  been  borrowed  from  the  butt  end  of  a  sliced  cu- 
cumber. Better  far  the  warehouses  of  Boston,  with  their  mono- 
liths and  frontages  of  rough  Quincy  granite ;  they,  at  least,  are 
unpretending,  and  of  native  growth :  no  bad  test  of  the  native 
mind. 

After  a  total  of  eighteen  miles  we  passed  Echo  Station,  a  half- 
built  ranch,  flanked  by  well-piled  haystacks  for  future  mules.' 
The  ravine  narrowed  as  we  advanced  to  a  mere  gorge,  and  the 
meanderings  of  the  stream  contracted  the  road  and  raised  the 
banks  to  a  more  perilous  height.  A  thicker  vegetation  occupied 
the  bottom,  wild  roses  and  dwarfish  oaks  contending  for  the  mas- 
tery of  the  ground.  About  four  miles  from  the  station  we  were 
shown  a  defile  where  the  Latter-Day  Saints,  in  1857,  headed  by 
General  D.  H.  Wells,  now  the  third  member  of  the  Presidency, 
had  prepared  modern  Caudine  Forks  for  the  attacking  army  of 
the  United  States.  Little  breastworks  of  loose  stones,  very  like 
the  "  sangahs"  of  the  Affghan  Ghauts,  had  been  thrown  up  where 
the  precipices  commanded  the  road,  and  there  were  four  or  five 
remains  of  dams  intended  to  raise  the  water  above  the  height  of 
the  soldiers'  ammunition  pouches.  The  situation  did  not  appear 
to  me  well  chosen.  Although  the  fortified  side  of  the  bluff  could 
not  be  crowned  on  account  of  deep  chasms  that  separated  the  va- 
rious blocks,  the  southern  acclivities  might  have  been  occupied 
by  sharpshooters  so  effectually  that  the  fire  from  the  breastworks 
would  soon  have  been  silenced ;  moreover,  the  defenders  would 
have  risked  being  taken  in  rear  by  a  party  creeping  through  the 
chapparal*  in  the  sole  of  the  kanyon.  Mr.  Macarthy  related  a 
characteristic  trait  concerning  two  warriors  of  the  Nauvoo  Le- 
gion. Unaccustomed  to  perpendicular  fire,  one  proposed  that  his 
comrade  should  stand  upon  the  crest  of  the  precipice  and  see  if 
the  bullet  reached  him  or  not ;  tlio  comrade,  thinkmg  the  request 
highly  reasonable,  complied  with  it,  and  received  a  yager-ball 
through  his  forehead. 

Traces  of  beaver  were  frequent  in  the  torrent-bed;  the  "broad- 
tailed  animal"  is  now  molested  by  the  Indians  rather  than  by  the 
whites.  On  this  stage  magpies  and  ravens  were  unusually  nu- 
merous; foxes  slunk  away  from  us,  and  on  one  of  the  highest 

♦  Tlie  Spanish  "  olmppftrni"  moans  a  low  oak  copso.  Tlio  word  lins  hocn  nntu- 
rnlizcil  in 'IVxus  and  New  Moxiio,  nnd  !i]ii)Iieil  to  tlio  donsp  ami  Iiii^liy  inuli'vjjvowfh, 
chicdy  of  liricrx  nnd  thorns,  disjMistul  in  pntchoH  from  a  thicket  of  a  hundri-d  yards  to 
the  whole  thuik  of  a  moinitnin  ranpti  (csperiully  in  the  Mexiran  Ticrra  Calionte). 
and  80  closely  entwined  that  nothing  larger  than  a  wolf  can  force  a  way  through  it. 


I     ! 


■i  I 


JL 


M 


I 


■A  , 


I     ;.  il 


{i5nte  I 


iHHHIi 


188 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  Ill, 


i 


bluffs  a  coyote  stood  as  on  a  pedestal;  as  near  Baffin  Sea  these 
craggy  peaks  are  their  favorite  howling-places  during  the  severe 
snowy  winters     We  longed  for  a  thunder-storm:  fishing  liSit! 
nings,  roaring  thunders,  stormy  winds,  and  dashing  rains— in  ftct 
a  tornado— would  be  the  fittest  setting  for  such  a  picture,  so  wild' 
so  sublime  as  Echo  Kanyon.    But  we  longed  in  vain     The  dav 
was  persistently  beautiful,  calm  and  mild  as  a  May  forenoon  in 
the  Grecian  Archipelago.    We  were  also  disappointed  in  our  nat- 
ural desire  to  hold  some  converse  with  the  nymph  who  had  lent 
Her  name  to  the  ravine— the  reverberation  is  said  to  be  remark- 
ably fine— but  the  temper  of  our  animals  would  not  have  endured 
It,  and  the  place  was  not  one  that  admitted  experiments.    Rain 
had  lately  fallen,  as  we  saw  from  the  mud-puddles  in  the  unoer 
course  of  the  kanyon,  and  the  road  was  in  places  pitted  with  drona 
which  were  not  frequent  enough  to  allay  the  cfioking  dust     i 
fresh  yet  familiar  feature  now  appeared.    The  dews,  whose  ex- 
istence  we  Jiad  forgotten  on  the  prairies,  were  cold  and  clammy 
n  the  early  mornings;  the  moist  air,  condensed  by  contact  with 
the  cooler  substances  6n  the  surface  of  the  ground,  stood  in  large 
drops  upon  the  leaves  and  grasses.    As  we  advanced  the  bed  of 
the  ravine  began  to  open  out,  the  angle  of  descent  became  more 
obtuse;  a  stretch  of  level  ground  appeared  in  front,  where  for 
some  hours  the  windings  of  the  kanyon  had  walled  us  in,  and  at 
2  30  1  .M.  we  debouched  upon  the  Weber-River  Station.     It  lies 
}^^^  T-^  T^*^  ""^  ^^"^  ^'"^^"^^^  ''^^"lost  under  the  shadow  of  loftv 
red  bluffs  called  "The  Obelisks ;"  and  the  green  and  sunny  S 

1      fej^^n  ^^^'°^  ^^^^'^^^  grandeur  behind,  is  exceeding- 

After  the  emotions  of  the  drive,  a  little  rest  was  by  no  means 
unpleasant.  The  station  was  tolerably  comfortable,  and  the  wel- 
come addition  of  potatoes  and  onions  to  our  usual  fare  was  not  to 
be  despised  The  tenants  of  the  ranch  were  Mormons,  civi"  and 
communicative.  They  complained  sadly  of  the  furious  rain-storms 
which  the  funnel-hke  gorge  brings  down  upon  them,  and  the  cold 

S?r  valt,"    ""  '"'  ^"P  "'  '"°^^  ^^'^'^  P^"^  ^^^-  "P-  t^o 

nr  w1?^  Tr  ^cs^^^cd  our  journey  along  the  plain  of  the  Weber 
or  Webber  River.     It  is  second  in  importance  only  to  the  BeS 
River:  i   heads  near  the  latter,  and,  flawing  in  a  dcvous  course 
toward  the  northwest,  falls  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake  afownS 
K  vl"'  ^'^t^^f^^'-^V^.  '-^nd  nearly  opposite  Frdmont's  Jnd 
Ihc  valley  resembles  that  described  in  yesterday's  diary  it  is 
however,  narrower,  and  the  steep  borders,  which,  if  water- waslcd 
would  be  red  like  the  kanyon  rocks,  are 'well  clothed  with  gmsa 
and  herbages.     In  some  places  the  land  is  defended  by  sK 
fences  in  zigzags,*  to  oppose  the  depredations  of  emigra/ts'  cattle 

•  This  iH  tlm  simpIcHt  of  all  foncPH,  nn.l  tliPreforo  nn.<l,  used  in  the  We«t     Trn„ 
trunks  are  felled,  and  cither  used  whole  or  «plit  into  rails ,  tl' V"re  thS^J-d  i,; 


Chap.  III.    BAUCHMIN'S  CREEK.— CARSON-HOUSE  STATION.        189 

upon  the  wheat,  barley,  and  stunted  straggling  corn  within     Aft 
er  fording  the  river  and  crossing  the  bottom,  we  ascended  steen 
banks,  passed  over  a  spring  of  salt  water  five  miles  from  the  sta- 
tion, and  halted  for  a  few  minutes  to  exchange  news  with  the  mail 
wagon  that  had  left  Great  Salt  Lake  City  this  (Friday)  morning 
Followed  a  rough  and  rugged  tract  of  land  apparently  very  tr?l 
mg  to  the  way-worn  cattle;  many  deaths  had  taken  place  at  this 
point,  and  the  dead  lay  well  preserved  as  the  monks  of  St  Ber- 
nard.   After  a  succession  of  chuck-holes,  rises,  and  falls,  we  fell 
into  the  valley  of  Bauchmin's  Creek.    It  is  a  picturesque  hollow  • 
at  the  head  is  a  gateway  of  red  clay,  through  which  the  stream 
passes;  the  sides  also  are  red,  and  as  the  glow  and  glory  of  the 
departing  day  lingered  upon  the  heights,  even  artemisia  put  on 
airs  ot  bloom  and  beauty,  blusliing  in  contrast  with  the  sharp  me- 
tallic green  of  the  quaking  asp  and  the  duller  verdure  of  the  el- 
der {Alnus  viridis\    As  the  evening  closed  in,  the  bottom-land 
became  more  broken,  the  path  less  certain,  and  the  vegetation 
thicker:  the  light  of  the  moon,  already  diminished  by  the  nar- 
rowness of  the  valley,  seemed  almost  to  be  absorbed  by  the  dark 
masses  of  copse  and  bush.    We  were  not  sorry  to  make,  at  7  45 
F.M.,  the  "Carson-House  Station"  at  Bauchmin's  Fork— the  trav- 
eling had  been  fast,  seven  miles  an  hour— where  we  found  a  log 
hut,  a  roaring  fire,  two  civil  Mormon  lads,  and  some  few  "fixins" 
m  the  way  of  food.    We  sat  for  a  time  talking  about  matters 
ot  local  importance,  the  number  of  emigrants,  and  horse-thieves 
the  prospects  of  the  road,  and  the  lay  of  the  land.     Bauchmin's 
i^ork,  we  learned,  is  a  branch  of  East  Kanyon  Creek,  itself  a  trib- 
utary of  the  Weber  Eiver  ;*  from  the  station  an  Indian  trail  leads 
over  the  mountains  to  Provo  City.    I  slept  comfortably  enoucrh 
upon  the  boards  of  an  inner  room,  not,  however,  without  some  ap- 
prehensions of  accidentally  offending  a  certain  skunk  (Mephitis 
mephitica),  which  was  in  the-  habit  of  making  regular  nocturnal 
visits.    I  heard  its  puppy-like  bark  during  the  night,  but  escaped 
what  otherwise  might  have  happened. 

And  why,  naturally  asks  the  reader,  did  you  not  shut  the  door? 
Because  there  was  none. 

mi  ^  ,  The  End— Hurrah  f    Augmst  25th. 

lo-djw  we  are  to  pass  over  the  Wasach.f  the  last  and  highest 
chain  ot  the  mountain  mass  between  Fort  Bridger  and  the  Great 

a  lonp  serrated  line,  each  resting  upon  nnothcr  nt  both  ends,  lilje  the  finjrers  of  a. 
mnns  riRht  liand  extended  and  inserted  between  tlio  correspondinR  fincors  of  the 
eft.  Ihc  zipaR  18  not  a  picturesque  olycct :  in  absolute  beauty  it  is  inferior  even 
to  our  EnRhsh  trimmed  hcdRcrow;  but  it  is  very  economical,  it  saves  space,  it  is  eas- 
ily and  readily  made,  it  can  always  serve  for  fuel,  and,  thcieforo,  is  to  bo  respected, 
uespite  tlic  homeliness  of  its  appearance.  '^         ' 

•  In  Captain  Stanshury's  map,  Uauciimin's  Fork  is  a  direct  influent,  and  one  of  the 
lurpest,  too.  of  the  Weber  River. 

i  The  word  is  Rcncrally  wittcn  Wasnirh  or  Wahnatrh.  In  the  latter  the  A  i«.  as 
iisuttl,  deiropi  and  in  both  tho  t,  though  necessary  ia  French,  is  totally  uncallcd'for 
in  lt<nghsh.  '' 


lid 


■if 


!;i 


M 


190 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  m. 


Salt  JLake  Valley,  and— by  the  aid  of  St.  James  of  Compostella 
who  is,  I  believe,  bound  over  to  be  the  patron  of  pilgrims  in  gen- 
eral— to  arrive  at  our  destination,  New  Hierosoiyma,  or  Jerusa- 
lem, alias  Zion  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  the  future  city  of 
Christ,  where  the  Lord  is  to  reign  over  the  Saints,  as  a  temporal 
king,  in  power  and  great  glory. 

So  we  girt  our  loins,  and  started,  after  a  cup  of  tea  and  a  bis- 
cuit, at  7  A.M.,  unaer  the  good  guidance  of  Mr.  Macarthy,  who 
after  a  whisky  less  night,  looked  forward  not  less  than  ourselves 
to  the  run  in.     Following  the  course  of  Bauchmin's  Creek,  we 
completed  the  total  number  of  fordings  to  thirteen  in  eight  miles. 
Tho  next  two  miles  were  along  the  bed  of  a  water-course,  a  com- 
plete fiumara,  through  a  bush  full  of  tribulus,  which  accompanied 
us  to  the  end  of  the  journey.    Presently  the  ground  became  rough- 
er and  steeper :  we  alighted,  and  set  our  beasts  manfully  against 
"  Big  Mountain,"  which  lies  about  four  miles  from  the  station. 
The  road  bordered  upon  the  wide  arroyo,  a  tumbled  bed  of  block 
and  boulder,  with  water  in  places  oozing  and  trickling  from  the 
clay  walls,  from  the  sandy  soil,  and  from  beneath  the  heaps  of 
rock— living  fountains  these,  most  grateful  to  the  parched  travel- 
er.    The  synclinal  slopes  of  the  chasm  were  grandly  wooded  with 
hemlocks,  lirs,  balsam-pines,  and  other  varieties  of  abies,  some  ta- 
pering up  to  the  height  of  ninety  feet,  with  an  admirable  regular- 
ity of  form,  color,  and  foliage.     The  varied  hues  of  the  quaking 
asp  were  there ;  the  beech,  the  dwarf  oak,  and  a  thicket  of  elders 
and  wild  roses;  while  over  all  the  warm  autumnal  tints  already 
mingled  with  the  bright  green  of  summer.    The  ascent  became 
more  and  more  rugged :  this  steep  pitch,  at  the  end  of  a  thousand 
miles  of  hard  work  and  semi-starvation,  causes  the  death  of  many 
a  wretched  animal,  and  we  remarked  that  the  bodies  arc  not  in- 
odorous among  the  mountains  as  on  the  prairies.     In  the  most  fa- 
tiguing part  we  saw  a  hand-cart  halted,  while  the  owners,  a  man, 
a  woman,  and  a  boy,  took  breath.     We  exchanged  a  few  consola- 
tory words  with  them  and  hurried  on.     The  only  animal  seen  on 
the  line,  except  the  grasshopper,  whose  creaking  wings  gave  forth 
an  ominous  note,  was  the  pretty  little  chirping  squirrel.     The 
trees,  however,  in  places  bore  the  marks  of  huge  talons,  which  were 
ejisily  distinguished  as  the  sign  of  bears.     The  grizzly  docs  not 
climb  except  when  young :  this  was  probably  the  common  brown 
variety.     At  half  way  the  gorge  opened  out,  assuming  more  the 
appearance  of  a  valley ;  and  in  places,  for  a  few  rods,  were  dwarf 
stretches  of  almost  level  ground.     Toward  the  Pass-summit  the 
rise  is  sharpest :  here  wc  again  descended  from  the  wagon,  which 
the  four  mules  had  work  enough  to  draw,  and  the  total  length  of 
Its  eastern  rise  was  five  miles.     Big  Mountain  lies  eighteen  miles 
from  the  city.     The  top  is  a  narrow  crest,  suddenly  forming  an 
acute  ba.scd  upon  an  obtuse  angle. 
From  that  eyrie,  8000  feet  above  sea  level,  the  weary  pilgrim 


!      I 
i      i 


Chap.  HI. 


BIG  KANYON  CREEK.— THE  DANITE. 


191 


first  sights  his  shnne,the  object  of  his  long  wanderings,  hardships 
and  perils,  the  Happy  Valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  west- 
ern horizon,  when  visible,  is  bounded  by  a  broken  wall  of  liaht 
blue  mountain,  the  Oquirrh,  whose  northernmost  bluff  buttresses 
the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  and  whose  eastern  flank  sinks  in  steps 
and  terraces  into  a  river  basin,  yellow  with  the  sunlit  golden  corn 
and  somewhat  pink  with  its  carpeting  of  heath-like  moss.  In  the 
foreground  a  semicircular  sweep  of  hill-top  and  an  inverted  arch 
of  rocky  wall  shuts  out  all  but  a  few  spans  of  the  valley.  These 
heights  are  rough  with  a  shaggy  forest,  in  some  places  black-green, 
m  others  of  brownish-red,  in  others  of  the  lightest  ash-color,  based 
upon  a  ruddy  soil ;  while  a  few  silvery  veins  of  snow  still  streak 
the  bare  gray  rocky  flanks  of  the  loftiest  peak. 

After  a  few  minutes'  delay  to  stand  and  gaze,  wo  resumed  the 
footpath  way,  while  the  mail-wagon,  with  wheels  rough-locked, 
descended  what  appeared  to  be  an  impracticable  slope.    The  sum- 
mit of  the  Pass  was  well-nigh  cleared  of  timber;  the  woodman's 
song  informed  us  that  the  evil  work  was  still  going  on,  and  that 
we  are  nearly  approaching  a  large  settlement.     Thus  stripped  of 
their  protecting  fringes,  the  mountains  are  exposed  to  the  heat  of 
summer,  that  sends  forth  countless  swarms  of  devastating  crickets 
grasshoppers,  and  blue-worms ;  and  to  the  wintry  cold,  that  piles 
up,  four  to  six  feet  high— the  mountain-men  speak  of  thirty  and 
forty— the  snows  drifted  by  the  unbroken  force  of  the  winds. 
The  Pass  from  November  to  February  can  be  traversed  by  nothing 
heavier  than  "  sleighs,"  and  during  the  snow-storms  even  these 
are  stopped.     Falling  into  the  gorge  of  Big  Kanyon  Creek,  after 
a  total  of  twelve  hard  miles  from  Bauchmin's  Fork,  we  reached 
at  H  30  the  station  that  bears  the  name  of  the  water  near  which 
it  is  built.     Wo  were  received  by  the  wife  of  the  proprietor,  who 
was  absent  at  the  time  of  our  arrival ;  and  half  stifled  by  the  thick 
dust  and  the  sun,  which  had  raised  the  glass  to  103°,  we  enjoyed 
copious  draughts— i!aM<  soil  peu  qualified— of  the  cool  but  rather 
hard  water  that  trickled  down  the  hill  into  a  trough  by  the  house 
side.     Presently  the   station-master,  springing  from  his  lio-ht 
"sulky,"  entered,  and  was  formally  introduced  to  us  by  ]\[r.  Mac- 
arthy  as  Mr.  Ephc  Hanks.     I  had  often  heard  of  this  individual 
as  one  of  the  old  triumvirate  of  Mormon  desperadoes,  the  other 
two  being  Orrin  Porter  Eockwcll  and  Bill  Hickman- as  the  leader 
of  the  dreaded  Danito  band,  and,  i  n  short,  as  a  model  rufiian.     The 
ear  often  teaches  the  eye  to  form  its  pictures :  I  had  eliminated  a 
kind  of  mental  sketch  of  those  assassin  faces  which  one  sees  on 
the  Apennines  and  Pyrenees,  and  was  struck  by  what  met  the  eye 
of  sense.     The  "  vile  villain,"  as  ho  has  been  called  by  anti-Mor- 
mon writers,  who  verily  do  not  try  to  menager  their  epithets,  was 
a  middle-sized,  light-haired,  good-looking  man,  with  regular  feat- 
ures, a  pleasant  and  humorous  countenance,  and  the  manly  man- 
ner of  his  early  sailor  life,  touched  with  the  rough  cordiality  of 


' 


i:  .'r 
r   u 


Is: 


192 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IH. 


the  mountaineer.  "  Frank  as  a  bear-liunter"  is  a  proverb  in  these 
lands.  He  had,  like  the  rest  of  the  triumvirate,  and  like  most 
men  (Anglo-Americans)  of  desperate  courage  and  fiery,  excitable 
temper,  a  clear,  pale  blue  eye,  verging  upon  gray,  and  looking  as 
if  it  wanted  nothing  better  than  to  light  up,  together  with  a  cool 
and  quiet  glance  that  seemed  to  shun  neither  friend  nor  foe. 

The  terrible  Ephe  began  with  a  facetious  allusion  to  all  our 
new  dangers  under  the  roof  of  a  Danite,  to  which,  in  similar  strain, 
I  made  answer  that  Danite  or  Damnite  was  pretty  much  the  same 
to  me.    After  dining,  we  proceeded  to  make  trial  of  the  air-cane, 
to  which  he  took,  as  I  could  see  by  the  way  he  handled  it,  and  by 
the  nod  with  which  he  acknowledged  the  observation,  "  almighty 
convenient  sometimes  not  to  make  a  noise.  Mister,"  a  great  fancy. 
He  asked  me  whether  I  had  a  mind  to  "  have  a  slap"  at  his  name- 
sake,* an  offer  which  was  gratefully  accepted,  under  the  promise 
that  "cuffy"  should  previously  be  marked  down  so  as  to  save  a 
long  ride  and  a  troublesome  trudge  over  the  mountains.    His 
battery  of  "  killb'ars"  was  heavy  and  in  good  order,  so  that  on  this 
score  there  would  have  been  no  trouble,  and  the  only  tool  he  bade 
me  bring  was  a  Colt's  revolver,  dragoon  size.    He  told  me  that  he 
was  likely  to  be  in  England  next  year,  when  he  had  set  the  "  ole 
woman"  to  her  work,    I  suppose  my  look  was  somewhat  puzzled, 
for  Mrs.  Dana  graciously  explained  that  every  Western  wife,  even 
when  still,  as  Mrs.  Ephe  was,  in  her  teens,  commands  that  vener- 
able title,  venerable,  though  somehow  not  generally  coveted. 

From  Big  Kanyon  Creek  Station  to  the  city,  the  driver  "reck- 
oned," was  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles.  We  waited  till  the 
bright  and  glaring  day  had  somewhat  burned  itself  out ;  at  noon 
heavy  clouds  came  up  from  the  south  and  southwest,  casting  a 
grateful  shade  and  shedding  a  few  drops  of  rain.  After  taking 
friendly  leave  of  the  "  Danite"  chief— whose  cordiality  of  manner 
bad  prepossessed  me  strongly  in  his  favor — we  entered  the  mail- 
wagon,  and  prepared  ourselves  for  the  finale  over  the  westernmost 
ridge  of  the  stern  Wasach. 

After  two  miles  of  comparatively  level  ground  we  came  to  the 
foot  of  "  Little  Mountain,"  and  descended  from  the  wagon  to  re- 
lieve the  poor  devils  of  mules.  The  near  slope  was  much  short- 
er, but  also  it  was  steeper  far  than  "  Big  Mountain."  The  coun- 
terslope  was  easier,  though  by  no  means  pleasant  to  contemplate 
with  the  chance  of  an  accident  to  the  brake,  which  in  all  incon- 
venient places  would  part  with  the  protecting  shoe-gole.  Beyond 
the  eastern  foot,  which  was  ten  miles  distant  from  our  destina- 
tion, we  were  miserably  bumped  and  jolted  over  the  broken 
ground  at  the  head  of  Big  Kanyon.  Down  this  pass,  whose  name 
is  a  translation  of  the  Yuta  name  Obitkokichi,  a  turbulent  little 
mountain  stream  tumbles  over  its  boulder-bed,  girt  with  the  usual 
sunflower,  vines  of  wild  hops,  red  and  white  wil '    .  s,  cotton-wood, 

*  "Olo  Ejiliraim"  is  tht.  lii^  ^itain-man's  sobriquet  for        grizzly  bear. 


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-Road  to  Tooele.. 

_       ormrJordan    I 

West 


GREAT  SAtT  tAKE  CITY  SURVEYS. 


All  the  blocks  omlom  Slot* at'lKam  tach  -lOacns 

AU  the  stnets  an  firocb  wide.,  including  side  wedks 

20/ieteack 
The  his  number  firm  t/u  SouOi  East  comer  .VTl 
Hot  A  muLado/rin  ISif7  amltmu  J3J  blvks 
B   .  .      ##     .         ffj 

^   •■ *'^      .  24-  .  ocn,l<ud 

O  the  tlorkt  have  t- lutf  nndoonlain  2^1  acres 

South  of  this  fi!ot  are  the  Hve  acn  tote 

rhe  Wist  boundry  is  the  filter  Jordim 

JVorth  u/thisldot  are  the  «6m  Sf^n^s 

Vorth  East  of  plot  B  is  ths  Cemetery 

rhe  a^  IS  divided  into  20  Wixrds  under  2()Bish,ips 


PIATTED    rCR    CAf   B! .HABD  F BURTON 

rnauAs  bi'lio^'k. 

:TT.:.'rAM. 

sBfT^oiaGc 


LuuiiouI<a|ia«u  \  C 


11 


i  \ 


198 


Chap.  111.     A  TICKLISH  KO AD. -EMIGRATION  KANYON. 

quaking  a^p,  and  various  bushes  near  its  cool  watery  margin 
and  upon  the  easier  slopes  of  the  ravine,  with  the  shL^or  d3' 
oak  {Querciis  nana),  monni^m  mahogany,  balsam,  and  other  fir« 
pmes,  and  cedars.    The  road  was  a  nirrow  shelf  along  the  broad 
er  of  the  two  spaces  between  the  stream  and  the  rock  and  fre 
quent  fordmgs  were  rendered  necessary  by  the  caprSourwan" 
derings  of  the  torrent.    I  could  not  but  think  how  hoS  musi 
have  been  its  appearance  when  the  stout-hearted  Mormon  pioneers 
first  ventured  to  thread  the  defile,  breaking  their  way  throK  the 
dense  bush,  creepmg  and  dinging  like  flies  to  Th  J  fdes^of  the 
hills.     Even  now  accidents  often  occur ;  here,  as  in  Echo  Kanvon 
we  saw  m  more  than  one  place  unmistakable  signs  of  uSfn 
the  shape  of  broken  spokes  and  yoke-bows.    At  one  of  tCmos^ 
Ucklish  urns  Macarthy  kindly  pointed  out  a  little  precipice  where 
four  of  the  mail  passengers  fell  and  broke  their  necks  a  puTe  in 
vention  on  his  part  I  believe,  which  fortunately,  at  that  SS 
did  not  reach  Mrs  Dana's  eai^.    He  also  entertalied  us  wirmany 
a  tale  of  which  the  hero  was  the  redoubtable  Hanks-  how  K 
had  s  ain  a  buffalo  bull  single-handed  with  a  bowSnife ;  and 
how  on  one  occasion,  when  refused  hospitality  by  his  Lamanite 
brethren,  he  had  sworn  to  have  the  whole  village  to  himsen"  aid 
had  redeemed  his  vow  by  reappearing  m  cua-po,  mth  gestures  so 
maniacal  hat  the  sulky  fndians  all  fle^d,  declaring  him  to  be  'bad 
medicine."    The  stories  had  at  least  local  coloring. 

In  due  time,  emerging  from  the  gates,  and  portals,  and  deen 
serrations  of  the  upner  course,  we  descended  into  a  lower  leve'^ 
here  Big,  now  called  Emigration  Kanyon,  gradually  bulges  out* 

hli;  f  if'P  «1«P^«  of  grass  and  fern,  shrubbery  and  Stunted 
brush  fall  imperceptibly  into  the  i)lain.  The  valley  presently  lay 
full  before  our  sight.  At  this  place  the  pilgrim  enS^igrantsfliK 
t^T  l^^^Tf' "'i.^  Jerusalem,  give  vent  to  the  emotions  long 

gratuationg,  psalms  and  hysterics.  It  is  indeed  nS  wonder  that 
the  children  dance,  that  strong  men  cheer  and  shout,  and  that 
nervous  women  broken  with  latiguo  and  hope  deferred,  scream 
ana  loint ;  that  the  ignorant  should  fondly  b'-Iieve  that  the  "  Spir- 
it ot  (io(l  pervades  the  very  atmosi.hcro,"  and  that  Zion  on  the 
tops  ot  the  mountains  is  nearer  heaven  than  other  parts  of  earth 
in  good  sooth,  though  uninfluenced  by  religious  fervor— beyond 
the  natural  satisfaction  of  seeing  a  bran-new  Holy  City  — even  I 
oould  not,  after  nineteen  days  in  a  mail-wagon,  gaze  upon  the 
scene  without  emotion.  ^ 

The  sublime  and  the  beautiful  were  in  present  contrast.  Switz- 
erland and  Italy  lay  side  by  side.  The  magnificent  scenery  ol' 
tUo  past  mountains  and  ravines  still  floated  before  the  rntina  as 
emerging  from  tjio  gloomy  depths  of  the  Golden  I'ass-tho  mouth 
ot  Emigration  Kanyon  is  more  poetically  so  called— wc  came  sud- 
denly in  view  of  the  Holy  Valley  of  the  West. 


•  '**M 


194 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  III. 


The  hour  was  about  6  P.M. ;  the  atmosphere  was  touched  with 
a  dreamy  haze,  as  it  generally  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake ;  a  lit- 
tle bank  of  rose-colored  clouds,  edged  with  flames  of  purple  and 
gold,  floated  in  the  upper  air,  while  the  mellow  radiance  of  an 
American  autumn,  that  bright  interlude  between  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  diffused  its  mild  soft  lustre  over  the  face  of  earth. 

The  sun,  whose  slanting  rays  shone  full  in  our  eyes,  was  set- 
ting in  a  flood  of  heavenly  light  behind  the  bold,  jagged  outline 
of  "Antelope  Island,"  which,  though  distant  twenty  miles  to  the 
northwest,  hardlj-  appeared  to  be  ten.  At  its  feet,  and  then 
bounding  the  far  horizon,  lay,  like  a  band  of  burnished  silver,  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  that  still  innocent  Dead  Sea.  Southwestward 
also,  and  equally  deceptive  as  regards  distance,  rose  the  boundary 
of  the  valley  plain,  the  Oquirrh  Eange,  sharply  silhouetted  by  a 
sweep  of  sunshine  over  its  summits,  against  the  depths  of  an  even- 
ing sky,  in  that  direction  so  pure,  so  clear,  that  vision,  one  might 
fancy,  could  penetrate  behind  the  curtain  into  regions  beyond  the 
confines  of  man's  ken.  In  the  brilliant  reflected  light,  which  soft- 
ened off  into  a  glow  of  delicate  pink,  we  could  distinguish  the 
lines  of  Brigham's,  Coon's,  and  other  kanyons,  which  water  has 
traced  through  the  wooded  flanljs  of  the  Oquirrh  down  to  the 
shadows  already  purpling  the  misty  benches  at  their  base.  Three 
distinct  and  several  shades,  light  azure,  blue,  and  brown-blue, 
graduated  the  distances,  which  extended  at  least  thirty  miles. 

The  undulating  valley-plain  between  us  and  the  Oquirrh  Eango 
is  12-15  miles  broad,  and  markedly  concave,  dipping  m  the  centre 
like  the  section  of  a  tunnel,  and  swelling  at  both  edges  into  bench- 
lands,  which  mark  the  ancient  bed  of  the  lake.  In  some  parts 
the  valley  was  green ;  in  others,  where  the  sun  shot  its  oblique 
beams,  it  was  of  a  tawny  yellowish-red,  like  the  sands  of  the  Ara- 
bian desert,  with  scatters  of  trees,  where  the  Jordan  of  the  West 
rolls  its  opaline  wave  through  paature-lands  of  dried  grass  dotted 
with  flocks  and  herds,  and  fields  of  ripening  yellow  corn.  Every 
thing  bears  the  impress  of  handiwork,  from  the  bleak  benches  be- 
hind to  what  was  once  a  barren  valley  in  front.  Truly  the  Mor- 
mon prophecy  had  been  fulfilled :  already  the  liowling  wilderness 
—in  winch  twelve  years  ago  a  few  miserable  savages,  the  half- 
naked  Digger  Indians,  gatliered  tlicir  grass-seed,  grasshoppers,  and 
black  crickets  to  keep  life  and  soul  together,  and  awoke  with  their 
war-cries  the  echo  of  the  mountains,  and  the  bear,  the  wolf,  and 
the  fox  ]>rowlcd  over  the  site  of  a  now  populous  city—**  has  blos- 
somed like  tlie  rose." 

This  valley— this  lovely  panorama  of  green,  and  azure,  and  goW 
-—this  land,  fresh,  as  it  were,  from  the  hands  of  God,  is  apparontlv 
girt  on  all  sides  by  hills:  the  highest  peaks,  raised  7000  to  8000 
feet  above  the  plnin  of  their  bases,  show  by  gulches  veined  witli 
lines  of  snow  that  even  in  this  season  winter  frowns  upon  the  last 
smile  of  summer. 


Chap.  in.       MOUNTAIN  POINT.-THE  HAPPY  VALLEY.  195 

Advancing,  we  exchanged  the  rough  cahues  and  the  freauent 
fords  of  the  ravine  for  a  broad  smooth  highwav  snanniS  tT. 
easternmost  valley-bench-a  terrace  that  dro^sIS'  aSSf  sip 
from  the  midst  of  the  surrounding  mountains  to  the  level  of  th? 
present  vallev-plain  From  a  distance-the  mouth  of  Emtrat  on 
Won  IS  aWt  4-30  miles  from  the  city-Zion,  whichTs?ot  on 
a  hill,  but,  on  the  contrary,  lies  almost  in  the  lowest  part  of  the 
T't^V  completely  hid  from  sight,  as  if  no  such  tWexist' 
sine  ^'^^    ^'  °^  ^PP^^«^*i°"'  Pointed  out  the  notaSlif  of  the 

thf  T  nlT/'.r'i?  f  c7^P°'  ^'"""^^"g  ^'•^'^  a  gleaming  shee1>_ 
the  Lake  of  the  Hot  Springs-set  in  a  bezel  of  emerald  sre^ 
and  bordered  by  another  lake-bench  upon  which  the  SoomTof 
thTSof  S^^j^gf  .^ring,  hung  liL  a  veil  of  gaufe  arTund 
the  waist  of  the  mountams.  Southward  for  twenty-five  miles 
stretched  the  length  of  the  valley,  with  the  little  W^dndinT its 
way  like  a  silver  thread  in  a  brocade  of  green  and  gold  I'he 
view  in  this  direction  was  closed  by  "  Mountain  Point  ".r^^i 
formation  of  terraced  range,  which'^orlTewaS^^^^^^^ 

t  Salt  Lite    thT  r''  r^  separates  the  fresh  wate'rlhat  ffeds 
the  foalt  Lake— the  Sea  of  Tibenas  from  the  Dead  Sea 

As  we  descend  the  Wasach  Mountains,  we  could  look  back  and 
enjoy  the  view  of  the  eastern  wall  of  the  Happy  Vallev  A  lit?!^ 
to  the  north  of  Emigration  Kanyon,  and  ab^o^^t  one  lilo  neS 
the  settlement,  is  the  Eed  Butte,  a  deep  ravine,  who™  quarried 
sides  show  mottlings  of  the  light  ferruginous  sandstone  wSw^ 
chosen  for  building  the  Temple  walh*  A  little  beyond  t  Iks 
the  sing  e  City  of  the  Dead,  Recently  removed  threfmHes  from 
the  habitations  of  the  living,  and  farther  to  the  north  is  CUy  Cr^^ 
Kanyon,  which  supp  ies  the  Saints  with  water  for  drinkW  and 
lor  irngation  Southeast  of  Emigration  Kanyon  are  o  }|r  ra 
vines,  Parley  s,  Mill  Creek,  Great  Cotton-wood,  and  Me  CoUon- 
wood,  deen  lines  winding  down  the  timbered  flanks  of  the  moum- 

ainTarc  S'firrt'toV  '^'  ^'^^^'*  ^^'"^'^  "^  '^'  Wasach  Mount- 
mnn  n  u  1  •  *?  ^^  P^^^^^^-^^^  ovcr  with  the  autumual  snow 
When  a  black  nimbus  throws  out  these  piles,  with  their  tilted  im 
rock  strata,  jagged  edges,  black  flanks,  rugged  brows  anc^^H 
heads  gfltby  a  gleam  of  sunset,  the  whole  SkIs  boW  ;  out  ^h 
that  phase  of  sublimity  of  which  the  sense  of  immensitv  is  the 
pnncjpal  element.  Even  in  the  clearest  of  weathor"he;Se  rare' 
ly  free  from  a  fleecy  cloud,  the  condensation  of  cold  and  humid 

Ihe  bencli  land  then  attracted  our  attention.     Tlie  soil  is  poor 


4 


196 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  HI. 


sprinkled  with  thin  grass,  in  places  showing  a  suspicious  white- 
ness, with  few  flowers,  and  chiefly  producing  a  salsolaceous  plant 
like  the  English  samphire.  In  many  places  lay  long  rows  ofbare 
circlets,  like  deserted  tent-floors ;  they  proved  to  be  ant-hills,  on 
which  light  ginger-colored  swarms  were  working  hard  to  throw 
up  the  sand  and  gravel  that  every  where  in  this  valley  underhe 
the  surface.  The  eastern  valley -bench,  upon  whose  western  de- 
clivity the  city  lies,  may  be  traced  on  a  clear  day  along  the  base 
of  the  mountams  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles :  its  average  breadth 
is  about  eight  miles. 

After  advancing  about  1"50  mile  over  the  bench  ground,  the 
city  by  slow  degrees  broke  upon  our  sight.  It  showed,  one  may 
re.idily  believe,  to  special  advantage  after  the  succession  of  Indian 
lodges,  Canadian  ranches,  and  log-hut  mail-stations  of  the  prairies 
and  the  mountains.  The  site  has  been  admirably  chosen  for  drain- 
age and  irrigation— so  well,  indeed,  that  a  "  Deus  ex  machina" 
must  be  brought  to  account  for  it.*  About  two  miles  north,  and 
overlooking  the  settlements  from  a  height  of  400  feet,  a  detached 
cone,  called  Ensign  Peak  or  Ensign  Mount,  rises  at  the  end  of  a 
chain  which,  projected  westward  from  the  main  range  of  the 
heights,  overhangs  and  shelters  the  northeastern  corner  of  the 
valley.  Upon  this  "  big  toe  of  the  Wasach  range,"  as  it  is  called 
by  a  local  writer,  the  spirit  of  the  martyred  prophet,  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith,  appeared  to  his  successor,  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  and  pointed 
out  to  him  the  position  of  the  New  Temple,  which,  after  Zion  had 
•'got  up  into  the  high  mountain,"  was  to  console  the  Saints  for 
the  loss  of  Nauvoo  the  Beautiful.  The  city — it  is  about  two  miles 
broad— runs  parallel  with  the  right  bank  of  the  Jordan,  which 
forms  its  western  limit.  It  is  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  distant  from 
the  western  range,  ten  from  the  debouchure  of  the  river,  and  eight 
to  nine  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  lake — a  respectful  distance, 
which  is  not  the  least  of  the  position's  merits.  It  occupies  the  roll- 
ing brow  of  a  slight  decline  at  the  western  base  of  the  Wasach— 
in  fact,  the  lower,  but  not  the  lowest  level  of  the  eastern  valley- 
bench  ;  it  has  thus  a  compound  slope  from  north  to  south,  on  the 
line  of  its  water  supplies,  and  from  east  to  west,  thus  enabling  it 
to  drain  off  into  the  river. 

Tho  city  revealed  itself,  as  we  approached,  from  behind  its 
screen,  the  inclined  terraces  of  the  upper  table-land,  and  at  last  it 
lay  stretched  before  us  as  upon  a  map.    At  a  little  distance  the 

•  I  Imvo  frequently  heard  tliis  legend  from  fJentiles,  never  from  Mormons;  yet 
even  the  Saints  own  that  as  early  ns  1842  visions  of  the  mountains  and  kanvons,  the 
valley  and  the  lake,  were  revealed  to  Mr.  ,JoHei)h  Smith,  jim.,  who  declared  "it  jirivily 
to  tho  disciiiles  whom  ho  loved.  Thus  Messrs.  ().  Pratt  and  K.  Snow,  apostles,  were 
enahlcd  to  recognize  tho  Promised  Land,  as,  the  first  of  the  |)ioneers,  they  issued 
from  the  ravines  of  tho  Wasach.  Of  course  tiio  Geniilcs  declare  that  the  exodist* 
hit  upon  the  valley  l>y  the  jjurest  chance.  The  sjjot  is  hcconiii^;  classical :  hero 
.JudRO  and  Apostle  Phelps  j)rcached  his  "  i^rmon  on  the  Mount,"  which,  anti-Mor- 
mons sny,  was  a  curious  contrast  to  the  first  discourse  so  named. 


Chap  III. 


BULWARKS  OF  ZION. 


197 


aspect  was  somewhat  Oriental,  and  in  some  points  it  reminded  me 
of  modern  Athens  without  the  Acropolis.    None  of  the  buildings 
except  the  Prophet's  house,  were  whitewashed.     The  material— 
the  thick,  sun-dried  adobe,  common  to  all  parts  of  the  Eastern 
world*— was  of  a  dull  leaden  blue,  deepened  by  the  atmosphere 
to  a  gray,  like  the  shmgles  of  the  roofs.    The  number  of  gardens 
and  compounds— each  tenement  within  the  walls  originally  re- 
ceived 1-50  square  acre,  and  those  outside  from  five  to  ten  acres 
accordmg  to  their  distance— the  dark  clumps  and  lines  of  bitter 
cotton-wood,  locust,  or  acacia,  poplars  and  fruit-trees,  apples,  peach- 
es, and  ymes— how  lovely  they  appeared,  after  the  baldness  of  the 
prames !— and,  finally,  the  fields  of  long-eared  maize  and  sweet 
sorghum  strengthened  the  similarity  to  an  Asiatic  rather  than  to 
an  Amerwan  settlement.     The  differences  presently  became  as 
salient.     The  farm-houses,  with  their  stacks  and  stock,  strongly 
suggested  the  Old  Country.    Moreover,  domes  and  minarets- 
even  churches  and  steeples— were  wholly  wanting,  an  omission 
that  somewhat  surprised  me.    The  only  building  conspicuous 
from  atar  was  the  block  occupied  by  the  present  Head  of  the 
Church.    The  court-house,  with  its  tinned  Muscovian  dome  at 
the  west  end  of  the  city;  the  arsenal,  a  barn-like  structure  on  a 
bench  below  the  Jebel  Nur  of  the  valley— Ensign  Peak;  and  a 
saw-miU,  built  beyond  the  southern  boundary,  were  the  next  in 
importance. 

On  our  way  we  passed  the  vestiges  of  an  old  moat,  from  which 
was  taken  the  earth  for  the  bulwarks  of  Zion.  A  Eomulian  wall, 
of  puddle,  mud,  clay,  and  pebbles,  six  miles— others  say  2600  acres 
—in  length,  twelve  feet  high,  six  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  two 
and  three  quarters  at  the  top,  with  embrasures  five  to  six  feet 
above  the  ground,  and  semi-bastions  at  half  musket  range,  was 
decided,  in  1853-54,  to  be  necessary,  as  a  defense  against  the  La- 
manites,  whose  name  in  the  vulgar  is  Yuta  Indians  Gentiles 
declare  that  the  bulwarks  were  erected  because  the  people  want- 
ing work  were  likely  to  "strike"  faith,  and  that  the  amount  of 
labor  expended  upon  this  folly  would  have  irrigated  as  many 
thousand  acres.  Anti-Mormons  have,  of  course,  detected  in  the 
proceeding  treacherous  and  treasonable  intentions.  Parenthet- 
ically, I  must  here  warn  the  reader  that  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City 
there  are  three  distinct  opinions  concerning,  three  several  reasons 
for,  and  three  diametrically  different  accounts  of,  every  thing  that 
happens,  viz.,  that  of  the  Mormons,  which  is  invariably  one-sided; 
that  of  the  Gentiles,  which  is  sometimes  fair  and  just;  and  that 
of  the  anti-Mormons,  which  is  always  prejudiced  and  violent.  A 
glance  will  show  that  this  much-talked-of  fortification  is  utterly 
harmless;  it  is  commanded  in  half  a  dozen  places;  it  could  not 

*  The  very  word  in  Spanish,  dprived  from  the  Arnbic  t^li\,  meaning  "tlip 
brick  •"  it  is  known  throughout  the  West,  ond  is  written  adobict,  and  prononnced  Johies. 


'  '''HI  ;l" 


.ri  "^ 


'  !    ' 


'J  w- 


f  t('»' 

I, ,  1'?'^: 


198 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IU. 


keep  out  half  a  dozen  sappers  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  and  now 
as  It  has  done  its  work,  its  foundations  are  allowed  to  become 
salt,  and  to  crumble  away. 

The  road  ran  through  the  Big  Field,  southeast  of  the  city  six 
miles  square,  and  laid  off  in  five-acre  lots.    Presently,  passing  the 
precincts  of  habitation,  we  entered,  at  a  slapping  pace,  the  second 
ward,  called  Denmark,  from  its  tenants,  who  mostly  herd  together. 
The  disposition  of  the  settlement  is  like  that  of  the  nineteenth 
century  New- World  cities— from  Washington  to  the  future  me- 
tropolis of  the  great  Terra  Australis— a  system  of  right  angles 
the  roads,  streets,  and  lanes,  if  they  can  be  called  so,  intersecting 
one  another.     The  advantages  or  disadvantages  of  the  rectangular 
plan  have  been  exhausted  in  argument;  the  new  style  is  best 
suited,  I  believe,  for  the  New,  as  the  old  must,  perforce,  remain 
in  the  Old  World.     The  suburbs  are  thinly  settled ;  the  mass  of 
habitations  lie  around  and  south  of  Temple  Block.     The  streets 
of  the  suburbs  are  mere  roads,  cut  by  deep  ups  and  downs  and 
by  gutters  on  both  sides,  which,  though  full  of  pure  water,  have 
no  bridge  save  a  plank  at  the  trottoirs.    In  summer  the  thorough- 
fares are  dusty,  in  wet  weather  deep  with  viscid  mud. 

The  houses  are  almost  all  of  one  pattern— a  barn' shape,  with 
wings  and  lean-tos,  generally  facing,  sometimes  turned  endways 
to  the  street,  which  gives  a  suburban  look  to  the  settlement;  and 
the  diminutive  casements  show  that  window-glass  is  not  yet  made 
in  the  Valley.     In  the  best  abodes  the  adobe  rests  upon  a  few 
courses  of  sandstone,  which  prevent  undermining  by  water  or 
ground-damp,  and  it  must  always  be  protected  by  a  coping  from 
the  rain  and  snow.     The  poorer  are  small,  low,  and  hut-like ;  oth- 
ers are  long  single-storied  buildings,  somewhat  like  stables  with 
many  entrances.    The  best  houses  resemble  East  Indian  bunga- 
lows, with  ilat  roofs,  and  low,  shady  verandas,  well  trellised  and 
supported  by  posts  or  pillars.     All  are  provided  with  chimneys 
and  substantial  doors  to  keep  out  the  piercing  cold.     The  offices 
are  always  placed,  for  hygienic  reasons,  outside;  and  some  have 
a  story  and  a  half— the  latter  intended  for  lumber  and  other  stores 
1  looked  m  vain  for  the  out-house  harems,  in  which  certain  ro- 
mancers ooncerning  things  Mormon  had  informed  me  that  wives 
are  kept,  like  any  other  stock.     I  presently  found  this  but  one  of 
a  multitude  of  delusions.     Upon  the  whole,  the  Mormon  settle- 
ment was  a  vast  improvement  upon  its  contemporaries  in  the  val- 
leys of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri. 

The  road  through  the  faubourg  was  marked  by  posts  and  rails 
which,  as  we  advanced  toward  the  heart  of  the  city,  were  replaced 
by  neat  palings.  The  garden-plots  were  small,  as  sweet  earth 
must  be  brought  down  from  the  mountains ;  and  the  flowers  were 
principally  those  of  the  Old  Country— the  red  French  bean  the 
rose,  the  geranium,  and  the  single  pink;  the  ground  or  winter 
cherry  was  common;  so  were  nasturtiums;  and  we  saw  tansy  but 


I-  if. 


H     i 


,iti 


1 

!  t!% 

i 

1 

!    i:.': 

.' 

/       1 

1 

\         Vf! 

i 

'1 

1     j-« 

i  .j: 


■■iiiiiiiiiJiiBi 

*  ■  '1 

^^^^^^^^^^H 

1  ;**f'l 

^fe 

■Hf   '.•  1 

•'•il,  '  .  ! 

i  '      1 

;    ,M 

Chap.  HI.  GARDENS.— THE  HOTEL  IN  NEW  ZION. 


201 


not  that  plant  for  which  our  souls,  well-nigh  weary  of  hopes  of  iu- 
leps  long  deferred,  chiefly  lusted— mint.  The  fields  were  large 
and  numerous,  but  the  Samts  have  too  many  and  various  occuoa- 
tions  to  keep  them,  Moravian-like,  neat  and  trim;  weeds  over- 
spread the  ground;  often  the  wild  sunflower-tops  outnumbered 
the  heads  of  maize.  The  fruit  had  suffered  from  an  unusuallv 
nipping  frost  in  May;  the  peach-trees  were  barren;  the  vines 
bore  no  produce;  only  a  few  good  apples  were  in  Mr.  Brigham 
Young  s  garden,  and  the  watermelons  were  poor,  yellow  and 
tasteless,  like  the  African.  On  the  other  han^  potatoes,  onions 
cabbages,  and  cucumbers  were  good  and  plentiful,  the  tomato  was 
npening  every  where,  fat  full-eared  wheat  rose  in  stacks,  and  crops 
ot  excellent  hay  were  scattered  about  near  the  houses.  The  peo- 
ple came  to  their  doors  to  see  the  mail-coach,  as  if  it  were  the 
"Derby  dilly'  of  old,  go  by.  I  could  not  but  be  struck  by  the 
modified  English  appearance  of  the  colony,  and  by  the  prodigious 
numbers  of  the  white-headed  children.  F       6  "" 

Presently  we  debouched  upon  the  main  thoroughfare,  the  centre 
of  population  and  business,  where  the  houses  of  the  principal 
Mormon  dignitanes  and  the  stores  of  the  Gentile  merchants  com- 
bine to  form  the  city  s  only  street  which  can  be  properly  so  call- 
ed,   it  IS,  indeed,  both  street  and  market,  for,  curious  to  say  New 
Zion  has  not  yet  built  for  herself  a  bazar  or  market-place.     Near- 
y  opposite  the  Post-ofiice,  in  a  block  on  the  eastern  side,  with  a 
long  veranda,  supported  by  trimmed  and  painted  posts,  was  a  two- 
stoned  pent-roofed  building,  whose  sign-board,  swinging  to  a  tall 
gibbet-like  flag-staff,  dressed  for  the  occasion,  announced  it  to  be 
the  bait  Lake  House,  the  principal,  if  not  the  only  establishment 
of  the  kind  m  New  Zion.    In  the  Far  West,  one  learns  not  to  ex- 
pect much  of  the  hostelry  ;*  I  had  not  seen  aught  so  grand  for 
many  a  day.    Its  depth  is  greater  than  its  frontage,  and  behind 
It,  secured  by  a  porte  cochh-e,  is  a  large  yard  for  corraling  cattle. 
A  rough-looking  crowd  of  drivers,  drivers'  friends,  and  idlers  al- 
most every  man  openly  armed  with  revolver  and  bowie-knife 
gathered  round  the  doorway  to  greet  Jim,  and  "prospect"  the 
new  lot ;    and  the  host  came  out  to  assist  us  in  transporting  our 
scattered  effects.    We  looked  vainly  for  a  bar  on  the  ground 
floor;  a  bureau  for  registering  names  was  there,  but  (temperance 
m  public  at  least,  being  the  order  of  the  day)  the  usual  tempting 
array  of  bottles  and  decanters  was  not  forthcoming;  up  stairs  we 
lound  a  Gentile  ballroom,  a  tolerably  furnished  sitting-room,  and 
bedchambers,  apparently  made  out  of  a  single  apartment  by  par- 
titions too  thin  to  be  strictly  agreeable.    The  household  bad  its 
deficiencies;  blacking,  for  instance,  had  run  out,  and  servants 

*  I  subjoin  one  of  tlie  promising  sort  of  advertisements  • 

"Tom  Mitchell!!!  dispenses  comfort  to  the  weary  (!),  feeds  the  hnnffrvr'  0  nnd 
cheers  the  gloomy  (I ! !),  at  his  old,  well-known  stand,  thirteen  miles  ei^fdf  Fort  d"  s 
Mumes.     Don  t  pass  by  me. 


\  li 


pi 


s '« 


4  i 


202 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  in. 


could  not  be  engaged  till  the  expected  arrival  of  the  hand-cart 
train.  However,  the  proprietor,  Mr.  Townsend,  a  Mormon,  from 
the  State  of  Maine — when  expelled  from  Nauvoo,  he  had  parted 
with  land,  house,  and  furniture  for  $50— who  had  married  an  En- 
glishwoman, was  in  the  highest  degree  civil  and  obliging,  and  he 
attended  personally  to  our  wants,  ottered  his  wife's  services  to  Mrs, 
Dana,  and  put  us  all  in  the  best  of  humors,  aespite  the  closeness 
of  the  atmosphere,  the  sadness  ever  attending  one's  first  entrance 
into  a  new  place,  the  swarms  of  "  emigration  flies" — so  called  be- 
cause they  appear  in  September  with  the  emigrants,  and,  after  liv- 
ing for  a  month,  die  off  with  the  first  snow — and  a  certain  popu- 
lousness  of  bedstead,  concerning  which  the  less  said  the  better. 
Such,  gentle  reader,  are  the  results  of  my  first  glance  at  Zion  on 
the  tops  of  the  mountains,  in  the  Iloly  City  of  the  Far  AVest. 

Our  journey  had  occupied  nineteen  days,  from  the  7th  to  the 
2oth  of  August,  both  included ;  and  in  that  time  we  had  accom- 
plished not  less  than  1136  statute  miles. 


Chap.  IV. 


BIBLIOLOGY. 


208 


CHAPTER  IV. 

First  Week  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.— Preliminaries. 

Before  entering  upon  the  subject  of  the  Mormons  I  would 
fain  offer  to  the  reader  a  few  words  of  warning.  During  my 
twenty-four  days  at  head-quarters,  ample  opportunities  of  surface 
observation  were  afibrded  me.  I  saw,  as  will  presently  appear, 
specimens  of  every  class,  from  the  Head  of  the  Church  down  to 
the  field-hand,  and,  being  a  stranger  in  the  land,  could  ask  ques- 
tions and  receive  replies  upon  subjects  which  would  have  been 
forbidden  to  an  American  of  the  States,  more  especially  to  an  of- 
ficial. But  there  is  in  Mormondom,  as  in  all  other  exclusive 
faiths,  whether  Jewish,  Hindoo,  or  other,  an  inner  life  into  which 
I  can  not  flatter  myself  or  deceive  the  reader  with  the  idea  of  my 
having  j)enetrated.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  only  fair  to  state  that 
no  Gentile,  even  the  unprejudiced,  who  are  rarce  aves,  however 
long  he  may  live  or  intimately  he  may  be  connected  with  Mor- 
mons, can  expect  to  see  any  thing  but  the  superficies.  The  writ- 
ings of  the  Faithful  are  necessarily  wholly  presumed.  And,  final- 
ly, the  accounts  of  Life  in  the  City  of  the'Saints  published  by  anti- 
Mormons  and  apostates  are  venomous,  and,  as  their  serious  dis- 
crepancies prove,  thoroughly  untrustworthy.  I  may  therefore 
still  hope,  by  recounting  honestly  and  truthfully  as  lies  in  my 
power  what  I  heard,  and  felt,  and  saw,  and  by  allowing  readers  to 
draw  their  own  conclusions,  to  take  new  ground. 

The  Mormons  have  been  represented,  and  are  generally  believed 
to  be,  an  intolerant  race ;  I  found  the  reverse  far  nearer  the  fact. 
The  best  proof  of  this  is  that  there  is  hardly  one  anti-Mormon 
publication,  however  imtruthful,  violent,  or  scandalous,  which  ] 
did  not  find  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City.*    The  extent  of  the  sub- 

•  A  list  of  works  published  upon  the  subject  of  Mormonism  may  not  be  uninter- 
esting. They  admit  of  a  triple  division— the  Gentile,  the  anti-Mormon,  and  the  Mor- 
mon. 

Of  the  Gentiles,  by  which  I  understand  the  comparatively  unprejudiced  observer 
the  iirmcipal  are,  .-       r    j  , 

1.  Tiic  Exploration  and  Survey  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  by  Captain  Stansburv,  who 
followed  up  Colonel  iremont's  flyinp  survey  in  1819,  or  two  vears  before  the'  Mor- 
mons had  settled  in  the  basin,  and  found  the  young  colony  about  2—3  years  old 
Auti-Mormons  find  fault  with  Ca])tain  Stansbury  for  expending  upon  their  adversa- 
ries too  much  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness. 

2.  The  Mormons  or  Latter-Day  Saints,  by  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Gunnison,  of  the  U. 
b.  lopographical  Engineers.  This  oflficer  was  second  in  command  of  the  exploration 
under  Captain  Stansbury,  and  has  recorded,  in  unpretending  style  and  with  great  im- 
partiality, his  opinions  concerning  the  "rise  and  progress,  peculiar  doctrines,  personal 
conditions  and  prosjwcts"  of  the  Mormons,  "derived  from  personal  observation."  Like 
his  commanding  officer,  Lieutenant  Gunnison  is  accused  of  having  favorct'  the  New 


,   1  »^ 


r 


*ii 


lM:l 


•\   I 


*■*!    ' 


n 


V.  i 


204 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


joined  bibliographical  list  would  deter  me  from  a  theme  so  used 
up  by  f  nend  and  foe,  were  it  not  for  these  considerations.     In  the 

Faith,  and  vet  with  all  the  inconsistency  of  the  odium  theologicum,  the  Faithful  am 
cliarsed  with  his  subsequent  murder;  the  only  motive  of  the  foul  deed  beinc  that 
the  bamts  dreaded  future  disclosures,  and  were  determined,  though  one  of  t  2 
number  had  been  sent  to  accompany  Captain  .Stansbury  as  assistant,  to  prevent  o  "r 
expeditions  Upon  Lieutenant  Gunnison's  volume  is  founded  "  Les  Mormons"  of  M 
Etonrneau  first  printed  in  the  "rresse,"and  afterward  republished,  Paris  185G 

•■  Vr  *^°""""s;  a  Discourse  delivered  before  the  Historical  Society  (,f  I'cnnsvl 
vania,  March  20tli,  18r,0,by  Colonel  T.  L.  Kano(U.  S.  Militia):  this  gentleman  an 
eye-witness,  who  has  toucliingly,  and,  I  believe,  truthfully  related  the  details  of 't  Ic 
Nauvoo  Kxodus,  ,s  called  by  anti-Mormons  an  "ai.ologist."  and  is  suspected  of  C 
ing  a  Latter-Day  Saint-baptized  under  the  name  of  Dr.  Osborne-in  Christ  an  dis- 
guise.  Arrived  at  ion  Undper  in  18.';7,  he  found  assembled  there  the  three  head« 
of  department.s,  Governor  Cummiug,  Chief  Justice  Eccles,  and  General  Johnston 

tlXZ?  ''"  ^"IT  '"  T  '""'•'""''  ^1"'^'''  "•'""'"J  ««  "  *I"'™°n  emissary,  ami 
nearly  shot  by  a  mi.stakc  ma.ie  on  purpose  ;  he  was,  however,  supported  by  the  cov- 

Jaitl .     Colonel  Kane  is  saul  to  have  ,,reserved  an  aflectionatc  and  respectful  re 
mcmbrancc  of  his  frieiuLs  the  Mormons.  Ji-spcciiui  le- 

4.  History  of  the  Mormons,  by  Messrs.  Chambers.  Edinburgh 
%       tV^Z'V"  Cnlifornia,  over  the  I'rairies,  Rocky  Mountains,  and  Great  Sier 
ra  ^evada,  by  W.  Kelly,  Es,,.,  J.  P.     Mr.  Kelly,  ^bose  'work  sharcc   .U    I      t"mc  o." 
US  appear.a,Ke  (he  interest  and  a.lmiration  of 'the  j.ublic  with  Messrs.  Jo  ,  "  Ga- 
bet  s  travels  m  Tnrtary,  Tibet,  and  the  Chinese  Empire,  visited  (Jreat  SnI  Lake  Cih- 
in  1840,  an  important  epoch  in  tb..  annals  of  the  in.'.nt  'colony,  and  Ic  ,v  -s   1  e  renfi 

"o5'  of  the  Sain't"'  '"  '"""^'  '''  ""'"  "'  '"^  '""'  ""''  ^^ '''«  '-"  -"""-  '"  t"" "'*«- 
(!.  The  Alormons  or  Latter-Day  Saints,  with  Jlomoirs  of  the  Life  of  Josei.h  Smith 
the  American  Mahomet.     Oflice  of  the  National  Illustrnte.l  Librarv,  1)8  Strand 
London.      J  bis  little  c.m.pilation,  d..ali„g  with  facts  rather  than  the  nie..,  borrow, 
f.om  the  polemics  ot  both  parties,  an.l  .lisplays  the  calnnu'ss  of  itulgnient  which  re 

or  «itli  Mormons  because  it  shows  some  desire  t<.  speak  the  truth.  This  soli,!  mer  t 
has  won  It  the  honor  of  an  abridg.M  translation  will,  the  title  "  Les  Morn  ,  "/ao^ 
pages  in  l2mo  Messrs^ Hachette,  Paris,  I8r.4),  by  M.  Ame.lee  PhOiot,  and  a  ril  innt 
review  l,y  M.  Prosper  Mermiee  in  the  "  Monifur,"  ami  reprinted  in  ''LesAeanS 
IIiston(|ues  ct  Liitcraires"(p.  l-r.8,  Michel  Lew.  18.-,r.)  intmngcs 

xv'^u-^  \'!f  "1,^""  V""^',""''  "  '^.'^r''''"''''  i"  '""^  Mormon  Settlements  at  T'tnh  by 
William  Chandless.     London  :  Smith.  Elder,  and  C,...  l,^,'",;.     Mr.  ChandleJ  a  om 
til-  n,u  die  o  Ju  ly  I8,'-..'-,  crossed  the  prairies  ii.  the  character  of  a  ''  ea    s  '  f.^M.r.- 
spent  ,he  en.l  of  the  .vcar  at  Great  Salt  I,nkc  City,  an.l  thence  travdcl  via  F  llrn^o 
and  San  Hcrnardino  to  CalKnrnia.    The  book  is  ..xccedinglv  livelv  and  pictur'smc 
co.nbm.ng  ,,leasar.t  readmg  with  just  observation,  impartiali.v,  and  good'  s,  n'''    '    ' 
8.  V  oyage  au  Pays  dcs  Mormons,  par  ,Ldc»  Ken.v  (2  vols.,  E.  Denti.   Paris  imn 
The  aut  n.r  accompanied  by  Mr.  Urcnchley.  AI.A..^;.av,.Ie.!^n  Juh  and  ,1     i,  .Si 
oflSM  Iron,  .Sa,,    -rancs..,  along  the  line  of  the  Carson  an.l  ll.nuboldt  Rivers 
Givat  Salt  Lake  (  iiy,  ami  retu.-ned.  like  Mr.  Chan.ll.  ss.  bv  the  sonth.Tn  road      Tl  • 
tw,,  voh.mes  are  more  val.iable  f,.r  the  observations  on  the  natural  history  of  iho  It. 
tle-kn.mn  b.is.n  than  for  the  generalisms,  more  or  less  m.u.i.I,  uith  which'the  snbj.v- 
of  the  New  l-a.th  is  discussed.  ninjn 

N<.t  a  few  an,.mali<.8  appear  in  the  judgments  passed  bv  M.  ilemy  npon  the  Sninti.  i 
wh.l.>  .n  some  phuTs  they  are  repr.-Hcnte.l  as  fervent  ami  full  of  faith  we  also  rend- 

Lc  Mor.non.sn..;  n  a  pas  cnracterc  .le  sp.,nta....i...-  .l.-s  religions  primi.iv..s,  c.  ...li  vn 
.1.1  r..ste,  .1.-  S..I,  n.  la  naivel..  -les  religi.ms  .,,.i  suivirent,  ni  la  sinc.Mite  .h^s  .■cvel«il.,ns 
ou  d.-s  ret,.r.n.-H  r.«l.g...,.s,.s  ,p,i.  .lur„nt  h's  sifTles  dcrniers.  out  pris  pla.e  .bum  rhi" 
to.r.' :    ,in,l  while  Mr.  .losepb  Smith  is  in  parts  len.lerly  treate.l.  lie  is  riilhlesslv  char- 
actcr.x...  in  pi?  4  as  ,mfourl,.  .,  .,„  i,„f„.,tr„r,  a  "savage  an.l  giga.i.i,-  Tar.i.fn'  -   A  , 

Mr'     "fl     m""-'''  r"";'""":'  "••""''  ""'•k  I-  l"'-lv  MP, r...l'  ,,,i,|„,  ,h,/aii".iVr.  o 

Mr  J,.fls.  Murlington  Ar-a.l...  b..t  an  n.T.,u.it  of  (ire„t  Suit  Lake  City  in  18,-.  i/nK 
archwologicftl  an  a  siu.ly  of  Lond.m  life  in  A. I).  I8(i().  ' 


Chap.  IV. 


BIBLIOLOGY. 


205 


tirst  place,  I  have  found,  since  my  return  to  England,  a  prodigious 
general  ignorance  of  the  "Mormon  rule;"  the  mass  of  the  public 
has  heard  of  the  Saints,  but  even  well-educated  men  hold  theirs 

9.  Incidents  of  Travel  and  Adventure  in  the  Far  West,  by  M.  Carvalho,  wlio  a<"- 
companicd  Colonel  Fremont  in  his  List  exploration.  According  to  anti-Mormons 
the  account  of  the  Saints  is  far  too  favorable  (1850).  ' 

10.  Geological  Survey  of  the  Territory  of  Utah,  by  II,  Englemann.  Washington, 
1860. 

The  principal  anti-Mormon  works  are  the  following,  ranged  in  the  order  of  their 
rcspev,ii\e  dates.     The  Cons,  it  will  be  observed,  more  than  treble  the  I'los. 

1.  A  brief  History  of  the  Church  of  Christ  of  Latter-Dav  Sain.s  (commonly  called 
Mormons),  including  an  Account  of  their  Doctrine  and  Discipline,  witli  the  reason 
of  the  Author  for  leaving  the  said  Church,  by  John  Corrill,  a  member  of  the  I.,cg. 
islature  of  Missouri  (50  pages,  8vo,  St.  Louis,  1839).  I  know  nothing  beyond  the 
name  of  this  little  work,  or  of  the  nine  following. 

2.  Addresses  on  Mormonism,  by  the  Ilev.  Hays  Douglas  (Isle  of  Man,  1839). 

3.  Mormonism  weighed  in  the  Balances  of  the  Sanctuary  and  found  Wanting,  bv 
Samuel  Haiiimg  («G  pages,  Douglas,  Isle  of  Man,  1 839). 

4.  The  Latter-Day  Saints  and  Book  of  Mormon.     By  W.  J.  Morrish,  Ledbury. 

5.  An  Exposure  of  the  Errors  and  Fallacies  of  the  Self-named  Latter-Day  Saints. 
By  W.  Hewitt,  Staftbrdshire. 

6.  Tract  on  Mormonism.     By  Capt.  D.  L.  St.  Clair.     (1840.) 

7.  Mormonism  Unveiled.     By  E.  D.  Howe.     (1841.) 

8.  Mormonism  Exposed.     By  the  Rev.  L.  Sunderland.     (1841.) 

9.  Mormonism  Portrayed ;  its  Errors  and  Absurdities  Exposed,  and  the  Spirit  rnd 
Designs  of  its  Author  made  Manifest.  By  W.  Harris  (04  pages,  Warsaw,  Illinois, 
1841). 

10.  Mormonism  in  all  Ages  ;  or,  the  Uise,  Progress,  and  Causes  of  Mormonism  ; 
with  the  Biography  of  its  Author  and  Founder,  Joseph  Smith,  junior.  By  Professor 
J.  B.  Turner,  Illinois  College,  Jacksonville.     (;W4  pages,  12m(),  New  York,  1842.) 

11.  Gleanings  by  tiie  Way.  By  the  Kev.  John  A.  Clark,  D.D.  (352  i)age»  in  12mo, 
Piiiladelphia,  1842),  Minister  at  Palmyra  in  New  York  at  the  time  when  the  New 
Faith  arose. 

12.  The  History  of  the  Saints,  or  an  Exposd  of  Joe  Smith  and  Mormonism.  By 
John  C.  Bennett  (344  pages,  12ino,  Boston,  1842).  This  is  tiic  work  of  a  eelibrated 
ajjostate,  who  for  a  season  took  a  prominent  ji!<ii)agandist  part  in  the  jiolitical  history 
of  Mormontlom.  Defeated  in  iiis  hopes  of  dominion,  he  has  revenged  himself  by  a 
volume  whoso  title  declares  the  character  of  its  contents,  and  wliicli  wants  nothing 
but  the  contideuce  of  the  reader  to  be  highly  interesting.  The  INIormons  speak  of 
hiui  ivs  the  Musaylimat  el  Knzziib— Musayfimat  the  Liar,  who  tried,  and  failed  to 
enter  into  partnership  with  Mohammed— of  their  religion. 

The  four  following  works  were  written  by  the  Ui'v.  Ilenrv  Caswall,  n  violent  nnti- 
Mormon,  who  solemnly  and  Mp]iareiitly  honcstlv  believes  all  the  calumnies  against 
the  "  worthless  family"  of  the  Prophet;  unhesital'ingly  adopts  the  .Solomon  Simulding 
story,  discovers  m  Mormon  Scripture  as  many  "anaehronisms,  toiitrudiclions,  and 
grttinmatieal  errors"  as  ever  I'clsus  and  Porphyry  detected  in  the  writings  of  the  ear- 
ly Christians,  and  designates  the  faith  in  which  hundreds  of  thousands  ]Wv.  and  die 
as  a  "delusion  in  some  resjiects  worse  than  paganism,  and  a  system  destined  perhaim 
to  uct  like  Molmnime.lanism  (!)  as  a  scourge  ujion  corrupted  Christianity"  (sub.  tho 
American?).  The  Mormons  speak  of  this  gentleman  as  of  a  19th  century  Torciue- 
niadu:  he  appears  by  his  own  evidence  to  have  eombined  with  tho  heart  of  the  great 

innuisitor  some  of  the  head  ((ualilies  of  Mr.  Coroner  W when  insisting  upon  tho 

unhappy  Fiie-king's  .swallowing  his  (Mr.  W.'s)  j.nissie  aeid  instead  of  the  pseudo- 
jioison  j.roviil.'d  lur  the  edilleation  of  the  imblie.  Mr.  Caswall  went  to  Nauvoo  hold- 
mg  III  his  blind  an  ancient  MS.  of  the  (Jrcek  I'saller,  and  eompletelv,  according  to 
Ins  account,  pii/./.led  the  Prophet,  who  decided  it  to  be  "  reformetl  Kgvptian."  More- 
over,  ho  eonvuled  of  falsehood  the  "wretched  old  creature,"  viz.,  the  maternal  pa- 
rent of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  called  n  mother  in  Israel,  hiokctl  up(m  as  one  of  the  holiest 
of  women,  and  who,  at  any  rate,  was  a  good  and  kind-hearted  niolher,  lliiit  could 
not  bo  re|)roachcd,  like  Luther'M,  with  "chaslising  her  son  so  severely  about  a  nut 
that  the  blood  cume."    It  is  no  light  proof  of  .Mormon  tolerance  ihat  so  truculent  a 


i 

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m  p 


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206 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


to  be  a  kind  of  socialistic  or  communist  concern,  where,  as  in  the 
world  to  come,  there  is  no  marrying  nor  giving  in  marriage. 

divine  and  opponent  par  voic  defait  should  have  been  allowed  to  depart  from  among 
a  people  whom  he  iuul  oiiended  and  insulted  without  loss  of  libertj'  or  life. 

13.  The  City  of  the  Mormons,  or  three  Days  in  Nuuvoo  in  1842  (87  pages,  Messrs. 
Rivingtons,  London,  1843). 

14.  The  Prophet  of  the  I9th  Century;  or,  the  Rise,  Progress,  and  Present  State 
of  the  Moi-mons  (277  pages,  8vo,  iniblislicd  by  the  same,  London,  1843). 

1.^.  Josepli  Smith  and  the  Mormons.  Cha])ter  xiii.  of  America  and  the  Ameri- 
can  Church  (.John  and  Charles  Mozley,  Paternoster  Row,  London,  18,')]). 

IG.  Mormonism  and  its  Author;  or,  a  Statement  of  the  Doctrines  of  the  Latter- 
Day  Saints.     London  :  Tract  Society,  No.  8GG  (IG  jjagcs,  18.';8). 

17.  Narrative  of  some  of  the  Proceedings  of  the  Mormons,  giving  nn  Account  of 
their  Iniquities,  with  Particulars  concerning  the  Trainip^  of  the  Indians  by  them  • 
Descrijjtions  of  their  Mode  of  EndoAvment,  Plurality  of  Wives,  &c.  By  Catharine 
Lewis  Lynn  (24  pages,  8vo,  1848).  As  will  presently  ap])ear,  when  the  fair  sex  on- 
ters  upon  the  subject  of  polygamy,  it  ajjparently  loses  all  self-control,  not  to  say  its 
senses. 

18.  Friendly  Warnings  on  the  Subject  of  Mormonism.  By  a  Countiy  Clorgvman 
(London,  18,"/'0- 

19.  The  Momou  Im])osture:  an  Exjiosure  of  the  Fraudulent  Origin  of  the  Book 
of  Mormon  i,8vo,  Newbury,  l^trndon.  18,f)l). 

20.  Mormonism  KxjJOsiMl.     15y  Jlr.  Bowrs.     (1851.) 

21.  Mormonism  or  the  Bible;"a  (Question  for  the  Times.  Bv  a  Cambridge  Cler- 
gyman (12nio,  Cambridge  and  London,  1852).  According  ti)  Mormon  view,  the 
title  should  have  been  Mormoninm  on*/ the  Bible. 

22.  History  of  Illinois.  By  Covernor  Ford  ((^hicago,  1854).  The  author  was  a 
determined  op])onent  of  the  New  Faith,  and  gives  his  own  V(>rsion  of  the  massacres 
at  Carthage  and  Nauvoo :  it  is  valuable  only  on  the  venerable  jnincipk)  "audi  alte- 
ram partem." 

23.  Mormonism.  By  .7.  W.  Conybeare,  first  printed  in  the  "  Edinburgh  Review" 
(No.  ccii.,  April,  1854,  and  rcininted  ill  1 12  pages,  ]2mo,  by  Messrs.  Longman,  Lon- 
don, 1854). 

24.  rtah  and  the  Mormors ;  the  History,  Government,  Doctrines,  Cii.stoms,  and 
Prospects  (jf  the  Latter-l)ay  Saints,  from  Pcrsonnl  Observations  during  a  Six-months' 
Residence  at  ( Jreat  Salt  Lake  City.  By  Benjamin  (J.  Ferris,  late  Secretary  of  Utah 
Territory  (.347  pages,  12nio,  Messrs.  Hnriier.'New  York,  1854).     The  author  l)eing 

married,  appears  to  have  lived  among  thcni  to  as  litlK'  ])urpose— for  nbservaticin as 

possible.  Every  thing  is  considered  (Venn  an  anti-Mormon  point  of  view,  and  some 
of  the  accusations  against  the  Saints,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Eldridges  and  the  How. 
ards,  I  know  to  be  not  founded  on  fact.  The  calnmess  of  the  work,  ujion  a  highlv 
exciting  subject,  cimtrasts  curiously  with  the  feminine  violence — the  natural  result 
of  contcnipiating  polygamy — of  another  that  issued  under  the  same  name. 

25.  Mormonism  I'nveiled;  in;  a  History  of  Mormonism  to  the  Pres<:nt  Time  (205 
pages,  8vo,  F.ondnn.  1855). 

21!.  Mormonism  Examined:  a  few  Kind  Words  to  a  Mormon  (8vo,  Birmingham. 
1855). 

27.  Female  Life  among  the  Mormons,  inil)Iished  anonymouslv  for  the  demand  of 
the  New  York  market,  and  especially  intended  tor  the  fnl'lowers'of  Miss  Lucy  Stone 
and  of  the  Rev.  Miss  Anioitu-tto  Hrown,  but  ktiowti  to  be  by  Mrs.  Maria  Ward,  wlio 
Hubse(|neutly  edited  another  work.  The  autbores'-.  who  professes  lo  have  escaped 
from  the  Mormons,  was  nuinifestly  never  among  tluni.  This  "lissu  de  luensongts 
et  de  cahnnnics,"  as  M.  Hemy  somewhiit  niigallantly,  but  verv  fruthfnllv  styles  it. 
has  bail  extensive  cinrencv.  M.  Kevoil  has  given  a  tire  translation  of  it!  nnder  the 
name  of  "  I,es  Harems  <lii  Nonveaii  Monde"  (;i((K  pages.  Paris.  185(1).  Its  success 
WHS  such  that  its  writeress  was  in  1858  induced  to  repeat  the  experiment. 

28.  The  Mormons  at  Home;  in  a  Series  of  Letters,  by  Mrs.  Ferris,  wife  of  the 
Into  I'ltited  States  Secretary  for  I'tah  Terri(ory  ( I)ix  and  Edwiuils,  Urondway,  New 
York,  185G).  The  rensniiM  fnr  this  lady's  rabid  hate  may  be  found  in  polvgnmv, 
which  !•>  cnbulaled  to  nslound.  |iei|i|ex,  ami  enrage  fair  woman  in  America  (icn 
more  time  her  etrong-opinioncd  English  sister,  and  in  the  soinewhal  i  (intemjitiious 


CnAP.  IV. 


BIBLIOLOGY. 


207 


Even  where  this  is  not  the  case,  the  reader  of  travels  will  not 
dislike  to  peruse  something  more  of  a  theme  with  which  he  is  al- 

estimation  of  a  sex — which  is  early  taught  and  soon  learns  to  consider  itself  crea- 
tion's cream — conveyed  in  these  words  of  Mr.  Brigham  Young:  "If  I  did  not  con- 
sider myself  competent  to  transact  business  without  asking  my  wife,  or  any  other 
woman's  counsel,  I  think  I  ought  to  let  tfiat  business  alone." 

Accordingly,  Mrs.  Ferris  finds  herself  in  the  hands  and  of  a  "society  of  fanatics,'" 
controlled  by  a  "gang  of  licentious  villains"— an  unpleasant  predicament  ;)our  cette 
vertu — in  fact,  for  virtue  at  any  time  of  life — characterizes  the  land  as  a  "Botany 
Bay"  for  society  in  general,  and  a  "  region  of  moral  pestilence ;"  and  wiiilc  she  lav- 
ishes the  treasures  of  her  pity  upon  the  "jjoor,  poor  wife,"  holds  her  sjjiritual  rival 
to  be  tout  hnnncment  a  ' '  concubine, "  and  consigns  the  wretches  assembled  here  {soil. 
in  Zion  on  the  tops  of  the  Mountains)  to  the  "very  hottest  part  of  the  infernal  tor- 
rid zone."    Tantaine  animis  coelestibus  ira;? 

The  Mormons  declare  that  they  incurred  this  funny  amount  of  feminine  WTath 
and  suffered  from  its  consequent  pin-pricks  by  their  not  taking  sufficient  interest  in. 
or  notice  of  tiio  writer,  especially  by  die  fact  that  on  one  occasion— it  is  made  much 
of  in  the  book— some  rude  men  a"ctually  did  walk  over  a  l)ridgo  before  her.  But  com- 
ing direct  from  the  land  of  woman's  rights'  associations,  lecturesses  on  propagand- 
ism  and  voluntary  celibatarians,  whose  "mission"  it  is  to  reform,  purify,  and  exalt 
tlie  age,  esi)ccially  our  wicked  selves,  what  else  could  be  exjiected  of  outraged  deli- 
cacy and  self-esteem  ?  Not  being  ' '  viviscctors, "  we  can  not,  however,  quite  join  with 
Mrs.  Ferris  in  the  complacency  with  which  she  relates  her  "probing  the  hearts"  of 
her  Mormon  guests  and  visitors  "  with  ruthless  questions"  about  their  domestic  af- 
fairs ;  and  we  remark  with  jdeasure  that  in  more  than  one  place  she  has  most  un- 
willingly confessed  tiie  kindness  and  civility  of  the  Latter-Day  Saints. 

29.  Adventures  among  tiio  Mormons,  i)v  Elder  Ilawthorhthwaite,  an  Apostate 
Missionary.     (IH")?.) 

30.  Tlio  Mormons,  the  Dream  and  the  Reality;  or.  Leaves  from  the  Sketch- 
book of  ExpcM-iencp.     Edited  by  a  Clergyman.     \V.  B.  F.  (8vo,  London,  1857). 

31.  The  Husband  in  Utah;  or,  flights  and  Scenes  among  the  Mormons.  By  Aus- 
tin N.  Ward.  Edited  by  Mrs.  Maria  Ward,  Author  of  "Female  Life  among  the 
Mormons"  (212  i)ages,  8vo,  Derby  and  Jackson,  Nassau  Street,  Now  York,  18,57). 
It  is  rcgretalile  tbat  a  respectable  jjublisher  should  lend  his  name  to  a  volume  like 
this.  The  authoress  jirofcsscs  to  edit  the  MS.  left  by  a  nejihew  of  her  husband,  who 
lived  among  the  Mormons  en  route  to  California,  went  on  to  the  gold  regions  and 
died.  I  can  not  l)ut  characterize  it  ns  a  jiure  invention.  The  writer  who  describes 
markets  where  )iot  one  over  existed,  and  "the  tall  spires  of  the  Morm<in  temples 
glittering  in  the  rich  sunlight"  (p.  I.".),  tliere  being  no  sjiires  and  no  temples  at  Utah, 
can  hardly  expect  to  be  believed,  even  when,  with  all  the  eloquence  of  Mr.  Potts,  of 
the  "  iMitnnswill  Ciazette,  '  she  dwells  upon  the  "fanaticism  and  diabolism  that  ever 
attends  (?)  tho  hideous  and  slimy  course  of  Morniouism  in  its  i)rogivss  over  the 
world."  The  inq>()sture,  too,  is  not  "white;"  it  is  |)rcnieditntodly  mischievous.  Al- 
though Broilior  Underwood  is  a  fancy  personage,  Miss  Eliza  H.  Snow,  witii  whose 
name  iinpr())ier  liberties  arc  taken,  is  "no  myth,  but  a  well  educated  and  highly  re- 
spectable reality. 

32.  Fifteen  S'enrs  among  the  Mormons,  being  tho  Narrative  of  Mrs.  Mary  Ettie 
V.  Smith,  late  of  the  (ireat  Salt  Lake  City,  a  Sister  of  one  of  the  Mormon  Iligh- 
I'riests,  she  having  been  personally  nei|uainted  with  most  of  the  Mormon  leaders, 
and  long  in  the  contideneo  of  the  Prophet  llrigham  Young.  By  Nels(m  Winch 
(Jreen.  f Charles  Scribner,  Mroadwav,  New  York,  18r.8,  and  unhappily  republished 
by  Messi-s.  Koutlcdgo.  London.)  This  work,  whose  exeeedinglv  .•la)>-trn])  title  is  a 
key  to  the  "iiopiilnr"  niitiii(>  of  the  contents,  is,  ;»(/■  ercc/knr,;  tlie  most  off'ensivo  puh- 
licaticm  of  the  kind,  and  liears  within  it  marks  of  an  exceeding  untruthfulness.  The 
human  sneiitiees  and  the  aliominable  rites  |(i'rformed  in  the  Endowment  House  are 
roprodiieiidiis  of  the  aecounis  of  hidihMi  orgies  in  the  Niuivoo  Temple,  invented  and 
promulgated  by  Mr,  Bowes.  The  last  words  placed  in  the  mouth  of  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith,  "My  (iipiU  my  (;.,(!!  linvo  mercy  upon  us,  if  there  is  n  tiodi"— a  palpable 

phigiarism  from  Lord  P 's  vill— ninylie  a  pious  fraud  to  warn  stray  lambs  from 

the  fold  111'  Morinoiiixin,  but  as  a  history  shows,  u  is  wholly  dwtitiite  oV  fact.  The 
murder  in  Mr.  Jones',  tho  butcher's  Iiu'uik!,  so  circumstantially  related,  never  took 


1^ 


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M 


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!    I 


208 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  IV. 


i 


'"  i 


ready  perhaps  familiar;  for  in  this  department  of  literature,  as  in 
history  and  biography,  the  more  we  know  of  a  subject,  the  more 

place.  Colonel  Bridger,  who  is  killed  off  by  the  Danites  at  the  end  of  the  book  still 
ives ;  and  a  dream  (cli.  xxxviii.)  seems  to  be  the  only  proof  of  Lieutenant  Gunnison 
havmg  been  slaughtered  by  the  Latter-Day  Saints,  not,  as  is  generally  supposed  bv 
the  Indians.  "Milking  the  Gentiles,"  coining  "Bogus-money,"  "whistling  and 
whittling"  anti-Mormons  out  of  the  town,  the  dangers  of  competition  in  love-matters 
with  an  apostle,  and  the  imminent  peril  of  being  scalped  by  white  Indians,  are  stock 
accusations  copied  from  book  to  book,  and  rendered  somewhat  harmless  by  want  of 
novelty.  But  nothing  will  excuse  the  reckless  accusations  with  which  Mrs  Smith 
takes  away  the  characters  of  her  Mormon  sisters,  and  the  abominations  with  which 
she  charges  the  wives  of  the  highest  dignitaries.  Among  those  thus  foully  defamed 
is  Miss  Snow,  who  also  appears  as  a  leading  actress  in  Mrs.  Ward's  fiction  The 
"poetess  of  the  Mormons,"  now  married  to  the  Prophet,  lias  ever  led  a  life  of  excen' 
tional  asceticism— cold  in  fact  as  her  name.  The  Latter-Day  Saints  retort  uiion 
Mrs.  Smith,  of  course,  in  kind,  quoting  Chaucer  (but  whether  truthfully  or  not  I  ciin 
not  say) :  ^ 

"A  woman  she  wag  the  most  discrete  alivn, 
lluabundes  at  chirchc-dore  had  ehe  liad  Ave." 

33.  Mormonism ;  its  Leaders  and  Designs,  by  John  Hyde,  Jun.,  formerly  a  Mor- 
mon Lkler,  and  resident  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City.     (38r)  pages,  8vo,  W.  P  Fetridirc 
&  Co.,  Broadway,  New  York,  1857.)     This  is  the  work  of  an  apostate  Mormon  now 
preaching,  I  believe,  Swedenborgianism  in  England :  it  has  some  pretensions  to  lenrii 
ing,  and  it  attacks  the  Mormons  upon  all  their  strongest  grounds.    It  is  also  satis 
factory  to  see  that  in  the  circumstantial  description  of  the  mysteries  of  the  Endow 
ment  House,  Mrs.  Smith  and  Mr.  Hyde,  whose  account  has  apparently  been  borrow- 
ed by  M.  Kemy,  disagree,  thus  justifying  us  in  doubting  both ;  and  it  is  curious  to 
remark,  that  while  the  lady  leans  to  the  erotic,  the  gentleman  dwells  upon  the  trea- 
sonous and  mutinous  tendency  of  the  cerenionv.     According  to  Mr.  Hyde  he  left 
the  Mormons  from  conscientious  motives.     The"jrormons,  who,  however,  never  fail 
thoroughly  to  denigrate  the  character  of  an  enemy,  esj)ecially  of  an  ajiostate,  declare 
that  the  author,  when  a  missionary  at  Havre  de  Gifice,  j)roved  useless,  always  shirk- 
ing his  duty ;  and  that,  since  dismissal  from  the  ministrv,  he  has  left  a,  wife  unmo 
vidcd  for  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  " 

The  now  almost  forgotten  jiolcmical  and  ami-Mormon  works  are, 
M.  Favez.     Frogments  sur  J.  Smith  et  Ics  Mormons.     A  methodistical  brochure 
Mr.  Groy.     Principles  and  Practices  of  Jlormoiis. 

M.  Giiers.     L'lrvingisnie  et  le  Moinioiiisnie  jiige's  par  la  parole  de  Dieu. 
Dr.  Hurlburt's  Mormonism  Unveiled.     This  work  first  set  on  foot  the  story  of 
"Solomon  Spuuldiiig"  having  composed  the  Book  of  Mormon,  concerning  which 
more  anon. 

Mormonism  a  Delusion.    By  the  Uev.  E.  B.  Chalmers. 
Mormonism  Unmasked.     By  B.  Clarke. 

Mormonism,  its  History,  Doctrine,  etc.     By  the  Uev.  S.  Simpson. 
Mornninism  an  Impostiue.     By  P.  Druminoiid. 
The  LhMer-Day  Saints  and  tl.e'ir  Spiritual  Views.     By  H.  S.  J. 
Troets  on  Mormonism.     A  bnidiure  by  the  Bev.  Edinuiul  ('lay. 
A  Country  Clergyman's  Warning  to  liis  Parishioners,     (Wertlioim  &  M'Tntosh 
London.)  ' 

The  Materialism  of  tlic  Jlormons,  or  Lotter-Dny  Saints,  Examined  and  Exi«)Md 
By  S.  W.  P.  Taylder.  '     '  ' 

The  Book  of  Mormon  Examined,  and  its  Claims  to  l«  a  Uevclation  from  God 
proved  to  Iw  False.     (iL'mo,  Aiinnymous.) 

The  principal  notices  of  Mormonism  in  periodical  literature  are. 

Archives  du  Christianisnie  :  articles  de  MM.  Agciior  de  (iasparin  et  Moiiod  Bur 

lo  Monnonisine.     Nos.  of  the  1 1th  of  DeccnilHT,  IH,''.:',  and  Uth  of  Miiv,  IM.'I  niioted 

in  the  "Bibliogniphie  Universelle"  of  M.M.  Ferdinand  Denis,  Pineon  ot  Do  Nur- 

bonne,  under  the  article  "Utah." 

Secies  religieuses  au  xix""  sieele  :  Les  Irvingicns  et  Ics  Sniiifs  du  Dornior  Jour, 

far  M.  Alfred  Maury.     B»vue  des  Deux-Moiidcs.     Vol.  iii.  of  the  2;td  vcar  (A  1) 
WMJ),  1st  of  Sej.ieniber,  pujes  l»(JI-Sfl»6. 


Chap.  IV. 


BIBLIOLOGY. 


209 


we  want  to  know.     Moreover,  since  1857,  no  book  of  general  in- 
terest has  appeared,  and  the  Mormons  are  a  progressive  people. 

History  and  Ideas  of  the  Mormons.     "  Westminster  Review,"  vol.  iii.  naces  lOf! 
230.     (1853.)  '•,  pafees  J  Jb- 

Le  Mormonisme  ot  sa  valour  morale— La  Socie'te'  et  la  Vic  des  Mormons  by  M 
Emde  Montcgut,  "  Kovuc  des  Deu.x-Mondes,"  vol.  i.  of  the  2Gth  year,  pages  G8'J-7'>-i' 
15th  of  February,  185G. 

Visite  aux  Mormons  du  Lac  Sale'  par  Jules  Romy.  Articles  in  the  "  Echo  du  Pa- 
cifique, '  San  Francisco,  January  and  February,  1 85(5. 

L'lllustration,  Journal  Universcl.  Vols.  xv.  and  xxi.  Articles  by  M.  Dcpninir 
"  Stir  les  Mormons"  (1858).  ^  "     *" 

BioRraphie  Geiierale  du  Dr.  Ha-fer,  publiuo  chcz  ALM.  Didot  frercs :  a  long  article 
upon  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  by  M.  Isambort  (1858). 

line  Campagno  des  Ainencains  contrc  Ics  Mormons.  Bv  M.  Au^^uste  Laugcl 
"Revue  des  Dcux-Mondes,"  lor  Sciitombre,  1859,  ))agcs  194-211. 

Magasin  Pittoresque.     Several  articles  upon  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  by  M  Ferdi- 
nand Denis.     Vol.  xxvii.,  pages  172-239.     Vol.  xxviii.,  page  207.     (l859-i8(!()  , 
_  Lc  Mormonisme  et  les  Etats-Unis.    "Revue  des  Deux-Mondcs,"  15th  April,  18(n 
signed  l)y  M.  Eliseo  Reclus ;  an  article  formed  chieflv  upon  the  work  of  M  Romy 
It  IS  an  able  article,  but  written  by  one  wiio,  unfortunately,  was  never  in  tlio  country 
~ii. line  qmi  mm  for  correct  description.     The  "  Rovuo"  had  already  undertaken  th'c 
subject  in  the  number  of  the  1st  of  September,  1853,  tho  15th  of  Feijruary,  185G,and 
the  1st  of  September,  18.")9.  ' 

The  foreign  works  omitted  in  the  catalogue  at  the  end  of  this  note  are 

Mormonismon  och  Swedenborgiaiiismen.     Ups;da(8vo,  1854).  ' 

Geschichte  der  Mormoncn,  oder  Jiingsten,  Tuges-lleiligen  in  Nord-Amerika,  vnn 
llicodor  Olshaiisen.     (Giittingcn,  244  pages,  8v,),  185G.) 

Geograi)liische  Wauderungen.  Die  Mormoncn  und  ihr  Land,  von  Karl  Andree 
Dresden,  1859. 

The  Mormons  have  published  at  their  General  Repository  only  one  purolv  laical 
liook,  "Tlin  Route  fniiu  Liverpool  to  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley,"  illustrated  wi'th  steel 
engrayings  and  wood-cuts,  from  sketcbcs  made  bv  Frederic  k  I'iorcy.  Edited  by  James 
Liiiworth.  It  is  a  highly  creditalile  volume,  esi)ecially  in  the  artistic  dei)artnicnt 
but  the  letter-press  is  uninteresting,  and  appears  a  mere  ])eg  upon  which  to  hang  co- 
pious  notes  and  official  returns.  The  jjrico  varies  from  £\  to  £\  3.s.,  and  the  three 
first  parts,  containing  an  accurate  history  of  the  Luttcr-Day  Saints' emigration  from 
Kurope  up  to  1854,  may  be  had  sejiaratolv,  Is.  each. 

So  good  a  theme  forVomaiiee  ould  not  fiil  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  Captain  Mavno 
Kcui,  who  IS  to  Mornionism  what  Alexander  Dumas  was  to  Mesmerism.  In  hU  pagc^ 
the  exaggerated  anti-Mormon  feeling  attains  its  acme;  the  exi)lorer  Stansburv  who 
spoke  fan-ly  of  the  Saints,  is  thus  (pialilied  :  "the  cai)tain  is  at  best  but  a  siipeiTicial 
observer  — quite  a  glass-house  stone-throwing  critl.pie.     Mr.  Brigham  Young  is  a 

vulgar  Alei  uades;  the  City  ,.f  tho  Saints  is  a  "modern  Gomorrah,"  and  th.' 
Saints  themselves  aro  "sanctitied./or/,,,,,., ;"  the  iilnralitv  wife  is  a  "/cw//.c  rntretc 
nne  In  th.|  talo  of  the  "Wild  lluntr,.ss,"  a  young  person  married  bv  foul  means 
to  Josli.  Stebb.ng,  the  Mormon,  and  rescued  mainlv  by  a  young  hero— of  course  a 
Mexican  volunteer-we  have  a  sound  abuse  of  the  nianv-wire-svstem,  desiMitism. 
tl.eocnuT,Danites  tit  lies,  "  plebbishness,"  and  the  "vulgar'ring  which  smacks  (!)  of 
Ignoble  origin.  On  the  other  hand,  the  ras.'al  Wakara,  an  ignoble  sub-chief  of  the 
Hiitas,  known  mainly  as  a  horse-thief,  cimtrasts  spleiididlv  !)v  his  valor,  by  his  "del- 
loate  attentions  to  the  pretty  half  caste,  and  by  his  ebiv'MlrV  and  huspilnliiv.  which 
mnke  Imn  a  very  "  R.dia  ot  the  North  !"   And  this  is  "fact  iaugbt  through  (i.^tion  !" 

1  he  .Mormon  Scriptures,  corresponding  with  the  Old  Testameut.  the  Evangels,  and 
He  epistles  of  f  hnstianity.  consist  of  tli<.  foll.nving  works  :  ,Mirelv  bibliocrai)hicaI  no- 
tices are  here  given ;  the  contents  will  be  the  subiect  of  a  future'page. 

1.  I  lie  Hook  of  Mormon  an  Account  written  by  the  hand  of  Mormon,  upon  t.lnteo 
taken  from  the  I'liiteM  ot  Mormon.  Translated  bv  Joseph  Smith.  Jnn  TIh^  firs! 
edition  was  printed  in  1830.  at  Palmyra,  New  York,  and  eonsiste.l  of  5000  copies. 
Since  that  time  It  has  freipiently  been  republished  in  England  and  America:  it  wn-* 
transl.ited  into  French  in  1 852 (Marc  Dueloux,  Rue  Saint  Hem.it  7.  Paris,  1852).  and 
veriions  have  appeared  in  tho  Gorman,  Italian,  Danish,  Welsh,  and  Hawaian  tonguei. 

o 


LMr 


210 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  IV. 


¥ 


whose  "  go-a-headitiveness"  in  social  growth  is  only  to  be  com- 
pared with  their  obstinate  conservatism  in  adhering  to  institutions 

2.  The  Book  of  Doctrine  and  Covenants  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  of  Latter-Dav 
Saints,  selected  (!)  from  the  Revelations  of  God.  By  Joseph  Smith,  President  (336 
pages,  12mo).  The  first  American  edition  was  printed  in  1832,  or  ten  years  after 
the  Book  of  Mormon,  and  was  published  at  Mr.  Joseph  Smith's  expense.  Many 
translations  of  this  important  work  have  appeared. 

3.  The  Pearl  of  Great  Price ;  being  a  Choice  Selection  from  the  Revelations, 
Translations,  and  Narratives  of  Joseph  Smith  (50  pages,  8vo,  Liverpool,  first  pub- 
lished in  1851).  This  little  volume  contains  the  Book  of  Abraham,  "translated  from 
some  records  that  have  fallen  into  our  hands  from  the  catacombs  of  Egypt,  purport- 
ing to  be  the  writings  of  Abraliam  while  he  was  in  Egypt,  culled  the  Book  of  Abra- 
ham, written  by  his  own  hand  on  papyrus.     With  a  fac-simile  of  three  papyri." 

4.  The  Latter-Uay  Saints'  Millennial  Star,  begun  in  1839,  Manchester,  United 
States,  and  now  published  42  Islington,  Liverpool,  every  Saturday.  It  has  reached 
its  21st  volume.  The  periodical  is  a  single  sheet  (IG  pages),  and  the  price  is  one 
penny.  It  is  an  important  publication,  embracing  the  whole  history  of  Mormonism ; 
the  hebdomadal  issue  now  contains  polemical  papers,  vindications  of  the  Faith,  with  a 
kind  of  a])iK;ndix,  such  as  emigration  reports,  quarterly  lists  of  marriages  and  deaths, 
varieties,  and  money  lists. 

5.  Journal  of  Discourses  by  Brigliam  Young  and  others.  First  published  in  1854 
(8vo,  Liverpool).  It  now  appears  in  semi-monthly  numbers,  1st  and  15th,  costing 
2c/.,  making  up  one  volume  jier  annum.  The  above-niontioncd  and  tlic  writings  of 
"Joseph  the  Seer  and  Parley  P.  Pratt,  wherever  found,"  arc  considered  by  the  au- 
thorities of  the  Church  as  direct  revelations. 

The  Mormons  ilo  not  hold  the  "Biogru])hical  Sketches  of  .Joseph  Smith  the  Proph- 
et.and  his  Progenitors,  for  many  Generations,  by  Lucy  Smith,  mother  of  the  Proph- 
et," to  be  entirely  trustwortiiy.  Beyond  its  two  pages  of  i)rcface  by  Orson  Pratt,  it 
is  deep  below  criticism.  This  work,  i8mo,  of  297  pages  (including  "  Elegies"  by  Miss 
E.  H.  Snow),  was  first  printed  in  1853. 

The  Controversialist  works,  not  usually  included  in  the  London  catalogue,  are  the 
following.  They  are  ciiaractcrizcd  by  abundant  earnestness  and  enthusiasm,  and  arc 
purposely  written  in  a  style  intelligible  to  the  classes  addressed : 

The  Word  of  our  Lord  to  the  Citizens  of  London,  by  II.  C.  Kimball  and  W.  Wood- 
ruff (1839), 

The  Millennium,  and  other  Poems ;  to  which  is  annexed  a  Treatise  on  the  Regen- 
eration and  Eternal  Duration  of  Matter,  by  Parley  P.  Pratt,  New  York,  1840. 

A  Cry  out  of  the  Wilderness,  by  Elder  Ilyde.  This  Look  was  first  published  in 
Germany  and  in  Gorman  (120  ))ages,  in  1842). 

Three"  Nights'  J'ubiic  Discourse  at  Boulogne-sur-Mer,  by  Elder  John  Taylor  (40 
pages  in  8vo,  Liverpool,  \M0). 

Three  Letters  to  the  "  New  York  Herald,"  of  James  Gordon  Bennett,  Esq.,  from 
.r.  M.  Grant  (Mayor  and  I'rcsidcnt  of  tiie  Cjuorum  of  Scvcntii-s),  of  Utah,  March. 
1852.  These  epistles  have  been  reprinted  in  ])nn)iiidet  form;  they  ciiiclly  set  forth 
Mormon  grievances,  especially  the  injury  done  by  tiic  federal  oillcials. 

History  of  the  IVrseculions  endured  by  the  Church  of  Jesus  of  Lnlter-Day  Sainis 
in  America,  compiled  from  Puiilie  Documents  and  drawn  from  Aulhcntic  Sources-, 
by  C.  W.  Wandoli,  Minister  of  the  Gospel  (witiiout  date,  but  subseiiuent  to  the  04  pp. 
8vo  edition,  printed  at  Sydney). 

Journal  of  tiie  House  of  Ue|)resentalives,  ('(umcil  and  Joint  Sessions  of  the  First 
Annual  Special  Sessions  of  the  Legisiiitive  Assembly  of  the  Territory  of  I 'tab,  held  at 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  1851-1852.  (Printed  by  Brigham  Young,  175  pages  12riu>, 
1852. ) 

Defense  of  Polygamy,  by  a  Lady  of  Utah  (Mrs.  Belinda  Marden  Pratt)  to  her  Sis- 
ter in  New  Hampshire  (11  i)ages,  8vo,  first  printed  iit  (ireat  Salt  Lake  City  iu  1854, 
and  siil>se(iuently  republished  in  the  "  .Milleiniial  Star'' of  the  2'.llli  ofiFuly  in  the 
simie  year).     I  shall  prcsrnily  (|uote  this  curious  work. 

Arts  and  Ues<ilutions  of  the  Legislative  As.senibly  of  the  Territory  of  Utah,  Groat 
Salt  Lake  City,  40  pages,  12m(>.  First  printed  in  1854,  and  now  published  for  even- 
Annual  Session  (that  of'OO-'OI  being  the  lOtli)  at  (ireat  .Suit  Lukr  City.  Printed  ni 
the  "  MciunlaitU'er"  Offlce,  by  John  S.  Davis,  I'ublic  Prinur. 


Chap.  IV. 


•BIBLIOLOGY. 


211 


that  date  from  the  days  of  Abraham.     Secondly,  the  natural  his- 
tory of  the  New  Faith-for  such  it  is-through  the  sevml  periods 

i„^8?9S^of'?h!'  ^"'^.^eniorials  passed  at  the  several  Annual  Sessions  fthe  9th 
in  1809-60)  of  the  Legislative  Assemb  y  of  the  Territorv  of  m,ih      iT.  >■  i     ■  . 
virtue  of  an  Act  approved  January  19th   IS^A  r,„.,V  «,iJ^t   i    ^-      i"'^''slied  bj- 
afterward  J.  S.  Davis,  Public  Ser  1855  isml^n     ^"''«C"y.  Joseph  Cain, 
the  Territorial  Code  of  Deseret^^andTj  JXeculaf     '"'"'  '-"°-     ''  ^^"'^'"'^ 

SaSEe  Ci:;.^  "a'o'pa^esTn'svo"'™^  ""'  '''  '^^"°^"'^'^  ^~  B"^"^"-'  ^reat 

Marriage  and  Morals  in  Utah,  bv  Parley  P  Prnff-      «  ,i„^„„  a      t-  ,  ,„ 

T.o.,Mour  V.i„*,  „,  0  1- J,'  '^Jp.!,  Td  pa's «vVlS;'"™'~''  '*"'• 


tnniil  works  and  aevuii  sermona. 

.,  JrSl^l'T',"".."  '|i?  ""«'»e«o  of  EnKli.h  Work.  ,ml,li,l,cd  W  Iho  Church  of  I, 

extra,  3s.  6</. ;  cloth  embossed,  2s.  (J</.  Moiocco  txtui,  6s.  bd. ;  cloth,  gilt 

Poems,  Ueligious,  Historical,  and  Political.     Bv  Eliza  R  Snou-      Vol  T      M 
CO  extra.  Gs.Ofi.;  calf  gilt  .5,.   cloth  gilt,  3s.  Cc/.f  dl.tl'c.nbosd  o^^'J-     ^°'-°^- 

edi;  l£'."^S"cot^r','s%:?'""  '''''''''  "'"^  "'■  ""^  '^'-^'^  A;itts.%irst  print- 

EiSus^Lj'o.^::?^^;,.?!;;::,^:  ^n/^^^'^^  •"  ^^"'""^•^  -'^  «-'^™''>^ 

ofLattcr-Day  Saints,  and  the  Itcv  \\Clv  II    \V  »•'«.  ^  lunch  ol  Josns  Christ 

salem  Cluml     Firs't  published  in  ;;^;';'^'J;;;^""J"'^>'.  Minister  of  the  New  Jeru- 

Assassination  of  .Fosi'Dh  and  Ilvnim  <<i„ifi. .  „i  i         ,  ,,. 

pulsion  of  ,h.  Saints  f  o,nTinv,r^v 'S    l.t^^  ^'"'^"^^J  "^'""••y  of  the  Ex- 
Chester,  Liverpool,  and  i'rcstl^rc::;  h^^';'?^'   F  "  S'imS  in^ ^r' "V?  "'"  ^""■ 

.rrrr^:;s-r-;^ai-;;-f^n^^^^^ 

Bnnvn,  U.  P.,  Pastor  of  ti  o  I,  nln  lJ„  r       i-  ",",'    ^'^l"'''"^"™  of  Benjamin 

..tofthe  Miracles  ,^^^:A;rHSte;r''PHi;SlnS^^^^^ 

n,^.?S  i;iS;i'Y:^i;::;5:;"'Kii1:?  "  -  introduction  ,«  .ho  Fi..t  rnn. 

Ancients,  a'nd  as  rcsto^  d7n   hi   A^o  tV  t      iC,  uZT""'''''  ^^'\^'--^'"^  ^y  the 

Truth,  and  K.,„w!cd.v,     Ilrs    publi  I  ed    1    n'-  ''V^'"I.""''"{  "f  r-ivcrsnl  Peace, 

iiTM  iiuuiiMiLa  in  iWu.     It  IS  a  volume  far  su>.orior  in 


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212 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


of  conception,  birth,  and  growth  to  vigorous  youth,  with  fair  prom- 
ise of  stalwart  manhood,  is  a  subject  of  general  and  no  small  im- 

matter  and  manner  to  the  average  run  of  Mormon  composition.    Morocco  extra,  Es-. 
Orf. ;  calf  grained,  3s.  Gd. ;  cloth  embossed,  2s. 

The  Voice  of  Warning ;  or,  an  Introduction  to  the  Faith  and  Doctrine  of  the 
Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints.  This  work  has  been  translated  into 
French.  Morocco  extra,  4s. ;  calf,  gilt  edges,  3s. ;  calf  grained,  2s.  Gd. ;  cloth  emboss- 
ed. Is.  Gd. 

Worls  by  Orson  Pratt,  A.M.,  one  of' the  Ticelve  Apostles. 

Absurdities  of  Immaterialism  ;  or,  a  Reply  to  T.  'W.  V.  Taylder's  Pamphlet,  enti- 
tled "The  Materialism  of  the  Mormons,  or  Latter-Day  Saints,  Examined  and  Ex- 
posed."   First  edition  in  ] 849.     4d. 

Great  First  Cause  ;  or,  the  Self-moving  Forces  of  the  Universe.     2c?. 

Divine  Authenticity  of  the  Book  of  Mormon,  in  G  parts.     Each  part  2d. 

Divine  Authority,  or  the  Question,  was  JoscjJi  Smith  sent  of  God  ?  First  publish- 
ed in  1848.     2d 

Remarkable  Visions.     First  published  in  1849.     Id. 

The  Kingdom  of  God,  in  4  parts.  First  edition  in  1849.  Parts  1,  2,  3,  each  Id 
Part4,  2t/. 

Reply  to  a  Pamphlet  printed  at  Glasgow,  with  the  approbation  of  Clergymen  of 
different  denominations,  entitled,  "Remarks  on  Mormonism."  First  edition  in  1 849 
•2d. 

New  Jerusalem ;  or,  the  Fulfillment  of  Modem  Prophecy.  First  published  in 
1849.     3f/. 

Title  and  Index  to  the  above  Works,  \d. 

The  Seer.  Vol.  I.,  12  numbers;  II.,  8  numbers.  Each  number  2f/.  The  two 
volumes  bound  in  one,  in  half  calf,  os. 

A  Series  of  Pamphlets,  now  being  published  on  the  first  Principles  of  the  Gospel. 

The  following  numbei»  are  already  out:  Ciiap.  1,  The  True  Faith.  Chap.  2. 
True  Repentance.  Chap.  3,  Water  Baptism.  Clui]..  4,  The  Holy  Spirit.  Chap,  sj 
Spiritual  Gifts.     First  printed  in  18")".     Each  number,  2d. 

Works  by  Lorenzo  Snoir,  one  of  the  Twelve  Apostles. 

The  Voice  of  Joseph.  A  brief  Account  of  the  Rise,  Progress,  and  Persecutions 
of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints,  with  their  present  I'osition  and 
Prospects  in  Utali  Territory;  togetlier  with  American  Exiles'  Mettiorial  to  Con- 
gress.    First  published  in  1 852.     3r/. 

The  Only  Way  to  be  Saved.  An  Exiilanation  of  the  First  Principles  of  the  Doc- 
trine of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints.     Id. 

The  Italian  Mission,    id. 

Works  by  Elder  Orson  Speneer,  A.B. 

Letters  exhibiting  the  most  prominent  Doctrines  of  the  Churrh  of  Jesus  Christ 
of  Latter-Day  Saints,  in  reply  to  the  Rev.  William  Crowel,  A.M.,  Boston,  Mass.. 
U.  S.  A.  First  printed  in  1852.  Alorocco  extra,  4.v.;  calf  grained,  2s.  Gd.;  doth 
embossed,  Is.  Gd. 

Patriarchal  Order,  or  Plurality  of  Wives.  (Being  the  Fifteenth  Letter  in  Cor- 
respondence with  the  Rev.  William  Crowd,  A.IVL)     2d. 

The  Prussian  Mission  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Laftcr-Dny  Saints.  Re- 
port of  Elder  Orson  Spencer,  A.B.,  to  President  Brigham  Young.     2'd. 

Works  by  Elder  .Tohn  Jarqnes. 

Catechism  for  Children.     Cloth,  gilt  edges,  lO*/. ;  stiff  covers,  Gd. 

Exclusive  Salvation,  \d. 

Salvation.     A  Dialogue  in  two  parf.x.     Each  part  \d. 

I  will  conclude  ^liis  long  enumeration  with  Catalogue  of  the  principal  Works  in 
foreign  Inngimges. 

Works  in  French, 

Lc  lA\rc  do  Mormon  (Book  of  Mormon),  3s.  Gd. 

Unc  Voix  d'AvortisRcment  (V'oico  of  Warning).  Par  Parley  P.  Prntt.  Morocco, 
gilt  edges,  4».;  roan,  ].■».  Od.;  cloth,  Is,  Gd.;  paper  covers,  l.v.Ot/. 


Chap.  rV. 


BIBLIOLOGY. 


213 


portance.    It  interests  the  religionist,  who  looks  upon  it  as  the 
"scourge  of  corrupted  Christianity,"  as  much  a?  the  skeptic,  that 

,p  ^'''^o™T'  *"'  ^"t?""'  ■^'"''"'f  ^V"^  Latter-Day  Saints  and  their  Enemies)     Par 
r.  B.  H.  Stenhouse,  President  des  Missions  Suisse  et  Italienne.     Is  Gd        '' 
Autonte  Divine  (Divine  Autliority).     Par  L.  A.  Bertrand,  Elder."    id 
De  la  Necessite  de  Nouvelles  Revelations  prouvee  par  la  Bible.     Par  John  Tav 
lor,  un  des  Douze  Apotres.     id.  r  t  v,.     j.  m  ouun  ia.j. 

Aux  Amis  dc  la  Ve'rite  Religieuse.    Par  John  Tavlor,  Elder     2d 

Epitre  du  President  de  la  Mission  Fran9aise  h  I'Eglise  des  Saints  des  Demier^- 

Eoi"  et'eTlS     "'  '^^  '"  ^^'"'^'  ^^^'"'^'  '^  '^'  ^''''^^'  of  the  F™  neh 

Traite  sur  Ic  Bapteme.    Par  John  Taylor,  un  des  Douze  ApOtres.    2d. 

Works  in  German. 
Das  Buch  Mormon  (The  Book  of  Mormon),  3s.  Gd. 

AfSL?"'tn^i^P^"^'"''fr^;  ""'^  Belehrung  uber  den  Chestand  (Revelation  on 
Marriap ;  and  Patriarchal  order  or  Plurality  of  Wives).     Stiff  covers  Gd 
Zion's  Panier  (Zion's  Pioneer).     No.  1,  3/  oun  covers,  oa. 

Works  in  Italian. 
rolOis^Gd^'  ^°™°"  ^'^^'  ^°''^  ""^  ^"™°°)-     M"^"^'^^  c^tra,  6s.  Gd. ;  grained 

Works  in  Danish. 
Mormons  Bog  (The  Book  of  Mormon).    Grained  roan,  4s. 

Works  in  Welsh. 
Llyfr  Mormon  (Rook  of  Mormon).     Grained  roan,  4s. ;  roan,  gilt  edges  4s  Gd 

roat'lSiirediVaS';??""'''""  ^^"^^""^  '^'^^  ^"™--^>    ^^^^^rfJ^Xlt, 

cdKe?2."Gr'"'  ^"^""^  ^°°^^-     ^^'"'^^'^  '"''■•  ^'- '  S''''"^^  ™^°'  2s.  3d. ;  calf,  gilt 

Y  Perl  o  Fa«T  Bris  (Pearl  of  Great  Price),  Is.  2d. 

I,yS?ey  P.  Pratt)"  U.  ^'''^'  *-"""  ^'''''"^  ^^  ^'"'''  ^^''"'''*^°  """^  ^^""^^  '"^  Utah, 
'  Prophwyd  y  Jubili  (The  Millennial  Prophet).    Vol.  III.  unbound,  2s.  OJrf. 

-By  £lder  Dan  Jones. 

.  ai?3?3rrnb?u*LTKf "'''  "  '"'"""^  °"  "^""''^  ''  '''  ^"^J-'^>    H^^^'' 
Pwy  yw  Duw  y  Saint?  (Who  is  the  God  of  the  Saints?),  2^. 
Yr  Hen  Grefydd  Newydd  (The  old  Religion  anew),  Gd 
r^Jl'i}^    f  ''''.yT^'\T-  (i','-0'=l""iat'"n  to  the  Reverends,  etc.),  ly. 

n,t?d);  S.  ^'''^'^'"^  ^'"'^  "'^  ^^^'  ^°'''^°°  («P»ulding  Ston^  etc.,  re- 

uininv'rf  ■7'?'^  ^J°™°"''^«h  (Unpopularity  of  Mormonkm),  Id. 
Arwemydd  1  Seion  (Guide  to  Zion),  lit/  ' 

Pa  beth  yw  Mormoniaeth?  (What  is  Mormonism?),  hi 
Pa  betli  yw  gras  Cadwedigol  ?  (What  is  saving  Grace  ?),  id 
Dad)  ar  Mormoniaeth  ?  (Discussion  on  Mormonism),  2</ 
Anftyddiaeth  Scctyddiaeth  (Skepticism  of  Sectarianism),"  Id. 
Aim  dittyiuad  rhag  Cam-gyhuddiadau  (Replies  to  False  Charges),  Id. 

Y  Lie ulr  ar  y  Groes  (The  Thief  on  the  Cross),  id. 

'  1  eulnvch  a'u  Gwnindo"  ("  Don't  go  to  hear  them"),  id. 
bgwyddonon  Cyntaf  a  Gwahoddindau  (First  Principles  and  Invitntinn.!^  i,7 
A,  duw  a  Ddanfonodd  Joseph  Smith  (Divinity  of  jLJh"  £"„    1^^'  *'^- 
^^Llotruddiad  Joseph  a  Ilyrum  Smith  (Assassination  of  Joseph  and  Ilylum  Smith), 

Tnrddiad  Llfyr  Mormon  (Origin  of  the  Book  of  Mormon),  Ul 
Dannucg  y  Prcn  Ftrwythlawn  (Parable  of  the  Fruitful  Tree)   hi 
Tnu.tb  "■  't^  F*"^"'^''"'  ?''''  1*""'-''"'"'  World  mZrtSu 
in  S S)';  a;.'4 J"'''  ^"  '''^^^■"  ''''''''  '^''"""'  ''^^  ""  (^-  Jo"««'  Works  bound 


m 


\m 


I 


:d 


ill 


',  . 


•   '      S     {  i 


'i, 


it,.' 


214 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


admires  how,  in  these  days  of  steam-traveling,  printing,  and  tele- 
gramming,  when  "  many  run  to  and  fro,"  and  when  "  knowledge'" 
has  been  "increased,"  human  credulity  will  display  itself  in  the 
same  glaring  colors  which  it  wore  ere  the  diflfnsion  of  knowledge 
became  a  part  of  social  labor.     The  philosophic  observer  will  de- 
tect in  it  a  notable  example  of  how  mens  ayitat  mokm,  the  "  pow- 
erful personal  influence  of  personal  character,"  and  the  "effect 
that  rnay  be  produced  by  a  single  mind  inflexibly  applied  to  the 
pursuit  of  a  single  object;"  and  another  proof  that  "it  is  easier 
to  extend  the  belief  of  the  multitude  than  to  contract  it  —  a  cir- 
cumstance which  proceeds  from  the  false  but  prevalent  notion 
that  too  much  belief  is  at  least  an  error  on  the  right  side."     The 
statist  will  consider  it  in  its  aspect  as  a  new  system  of  coloniza- 
tion.    In  America  the  politician  will  look  with  curiosity  at  a 
despotism  thriving  in  the  centre  of  a  democracy,  and  perhaps 
with  apprehension  at  its  future  efforts,  in  case  of  war  or  other 
troubles,  upon  the  destinies  of  the  whilom  Great  Republic.    In 
England,  which  principally  supplies  this  number  of  souls,  men, 
mstead  of  regarding  it  as  one  of  many  safety-valves,  will  be  re- 
minded of  their  obligations  toward  the  classes  by  which  Mormon- 
ism  is  fed,  and  urged  to  the  improvement  of  education,  religion, 
and  justice.     And  I  hope  to  make  it  appear  that  the  highly-col- 
ored social  peculiarities  of  the  New  Faith  have  been  used  as  a 
tool  by  designing  men  to  raise  up  enmity  against  a  peaceful,  in- 
dustrious, and  law-abiding  people,  whose  whole  history  has  been 
a  course  of  cruel  persecution,  which,  if  man  really  believed  in  his 
own  improvement,  would  be  a  disgrace  to  a  self-styled  enlighten- 
ed ago.     The  prejudice  has  naturally  enough  extended  from 
America  to  England.     In  1845,  when  the  Mormons  petitioned 
for  permission  to  retire  to  Vancouver's  Island,  they  met  witli 

J3i/  Elder  John  Davies. 
Yr  hyn  sydd  o  rnn,  etc.  (That  which  is  in  part,  etc.),  Id. 
Epistol  Cyftrcilinol  Cyiitiif  (First  General  Epistle  of  the  first  Tresiilencv")  }d 
Traetlmwd  ar  Wyrthiaii  (Treatise  on  Miracles),  Id.  " 

Etto  AdolvRiad  etc.,  Chwech  lihifyn  (Do.  in  reply  to  Anti-Mormon  Lectures) 
Six  Nos.     (Each  No.  ]d.)  ^ 

IVgethu  i'r  Ysbrydion  yn  Ngharchnr,  etc.  (Preaching  to  the  Spirits  in  Prison 
etc.),  Irt. 
Ewch  a  DysRwch  (Go  and  Teach),  \d. 

Darlithian  ar  Ffydd,  gan  Josci)h  Smith  (Joseph  Smith's  Lectures  on  Faith),  id 
Y  Doniuu  \sl.rydol  yn  MrawdJys  y  Gelyn  (The  Spiritual  Gifts  before  their  Ene- 
mies' rnbunal),  "Id. 
Traethawd  ar  Fedydd  (Treatise  on  Baptism),  \d. 
Corff  Crist,  ncu  yr  Eglwys  (The  Body  or  Church  of  Christ)  \d 
Ffordd  y  Bywyd  Trngywyddol  (The  Way  of  Eternal  Life),  1'/. 
Yr  Achos  Mawr  Cyntaf,  gan  ().  Pratt  (Great  First  Cause,  by  O.  Pratt)  V 
Profwch  Bob  I'eth,  etc.  (I'rovc  all  things,  etc.),  jrf.  ' 

Athriiwiiirth  Inehus  (Sound  Doctrine),  \d. 

Ymcidyddnnion  yn  Gymracg  a  Sacsonaeg  (Dialogues  in  Welsh  and  English),  Arf 
Llythyron  Capt.  .femes  o  Ddyfl'ryn  y  li.  II.  Mawr,  yn  dcsgrilio  ardorrhawgrwydd 
Scion  (Benut.os  of  /.on  described  by  Captain  Jones,  in  a  Series  of  Letters  from 
Oreat  Salt  Lake  Valley),  Id. 


Chap.  IV.    SAN  FBANCISCO  ROAD.— GOVERNOR  GUMMING.  £15 

nothing  but  discouragement.  And  even  in  1860, 1  am  told,  when 
a  report  was  raised  that  Mr.  Brigham  Young  would  willingly 
have  taken  refuge  with  his  adherents  in  the  valley  of  the  Sas- 
katchawan,  the  British  minister  was  instructed  to  oppose  the  use- 
ful emigration  to  the  utmost  of  his  power. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  Lieutenant  Dana  and  I  proceeded 
to  the  store  of  Messrs.  Livingston,  Bell,  and  Co. — formerly  Liv- 
ingston and  Kinkhead — the  sutlers  of  Camp  Floyd,  and  the  most 
considerable  Gentile  merchants  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City ;  he  to 
learn  the  readiest  way  of  reaching  head-quarters,  I  to  make  inqui- 
ries about  the  San  Francisco  road.  We  were  cordially  received 
by  both  these  gentlemen,  who,  during  the  whole  period  of  my 
stay,  did  all  in  their  power  to  make  the  place  pleasant.  Governor 
Bell,  as  he  is  generally  called,  presently  introduced  me  to  his  wife, 
a  very  charming  person,  of  English  descent,  whose  lively  manners 
contrasted  strongly  and  agreeably  with  the  almost  monastic  gloom 
which  the  regime  of  the  "lady-saints"  casts  over  society.  Lieu- 
tenant Dana  was  offered  seats  in  Mr.  Livingston's  trotting- wagon 
on  the  ensuing  Monday.  I  was  less  fortunate.  Captain  Miller, 
of  Millersville,  the  principal  agent  and  director  at  this  end  of  the 
road,  informed  me  that  he  had  lately  ceased  to  run  the  wagon, 
which,  had  cost  the  company  $15,000  a  month,  returning  but 
.$30,000  per  annum,  and  was  sending  the'  mails  on  mule-back. 
However,  my  informants  agreed  that  a  party  would  probably  be 
starting  soon,  and  that,  all  things  failing,  I  could  ride  the  road, 
though  with  some  little  risk  of  scalp.  We  ended  with  a  bottle  of 
Heidseck,  and  with  cigars  which  were  not  unpleasant  even  after 
the  excellent  "  gold-leaf  tobacco"  of  the  States. 

On  the  next  day,  Sunday,  we  walked  up  the  main  street  north- 
ward, and  doubling  three  corners  of  Temple  Block,  reached  the 
large  adobe  house,  with  its  neat  garden,  the  abode  of  the  then 
governor,  Hon.  Alfred  Cumming.  This  gentleman,  a  Georgian 
by  birth,  after  a  long  public  service  as  Indian  agent  in  the  north- 
ern country,  was,  after  several  refusals,  persuaded  by  the  then 
president,  who  knew  his  high  honor  and  tried  intrepidity,  to  as- 
sume the  supreme  executive  authority  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 
The  conditions  were  that  polygamy  should  not  be  interfered  with, 
nor  forcible  measures  resortecl  to  except  in  extremest  need.  Gov- 
ernor Cumming,  accompanied  by  his  wife,  and  an  escort  of  600 
dragoons,  left  the  Mississippi  in  the  autumn  of  1857,  at  a  time 
when  the  Mormons  were  in  arms  against  the  federal  authority, 
and  ended  his  journey  only  in  April  of  the  ensuing  year.  By 
firmness,  prudence,  and  conciliation,  ho  not  only  prevented  an}' 
collision  between  the  local  militia  and  the  United  States  army, 
which  was  burning  to  revenge  itself  for  the  terrible  hardships  of 
the  campaign,  but  succeeded  in  restoring  order  and  obedience 
throughout  the  Territory.  He  had  been  told  before  entering  that 
his  life  was  in  danger ;  he  was  not,  however,  a  man  to  be  deterred 


?    ; 


*i'< 


n  ;  t 


'  (     H 


216 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


from  a  settled  purpose,  and  experiment  sliowed  that,  so  far  from 
bemg  molested,  he  was  received  with  a  salute  and  all  the  honors. 
Having  been  warned  that  he  might  share  the  fate  of  Governor 
Boggs,  who  in  1843  was  shot  through  the  mouth  when  standing 
at  the  window,  he  enlarged  the  casements  of  his  house  in  order 
to  give  the  shooter  a  fair  chance.     His  determination  enabled  him 
to  issue,  a  few  days  after  his  arrival,  a  proclamation  offering  pro- 
tection to  all  persons  illegally  restrained  of  their  liberty  in  Utah. 
The   scrupulous   and   conscientious  impartiality  which   he  has 
brought  to  the  discharge  of  his  difijcult  and  delicate  duties,  and 
more  still,  his  resolution  to  treat  the  Saints  like  Gentiles  and  citi- 
zens, not  as  Digger  Indians  or  felons,  have  won  him  scant  favor 
from  either  party.     The  anti-Mormons  use  very  hard  languao'e 
and  declare  him  to  be  a  Mormon  in  Christian  disguise.     The  Mor- 
mons, though  more  moderate,  can  never,  by  their  very  oro-aniza- 
tion,  rest  contented  without  the  combination  of  the  temporal  with 
the  Spiritual  power.     The  governor  does  not  meet  his  predecessor 
the  ex-governor,  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  from  prudential  motives' 
except  on  public  duty.     Mrs.  Gumming  visits  Mrs.  Young,  and  at 
the  houses  of  the  principal  dignitaries,  this  being  nearly  the  only 
society  in  the  place.     As,  among  Moslems,  a  Lady  M.  W.  Mon- 
tague can  learn  more  of  domestic  life  in  a  week  than  a  man  can 
in  a  year,  so  it  is  among  the  Mormons.     I  can  not  but  express  a 
hope  that  the  amiable  Mrs.  Gumming  will  favor  us  with  the  re- 
sults of  her  observation  and  experience,  and  that  she  will  be  as 
disinterested  and  unprejudiced  as  she  is  talented  and  accomplish- 
ed.   The  kindness  and  hospitality  which  I  found  at  the  govern- 
or's, and,  indeed,  at  every  place  in  New  Zion,  is  "  ungrateful  to 
omit,"  and  would  be  "tedious  to  repeat." 

We  dined  with  his  excellency  at  the  usual  hour,  2  P.M.     On 
the  way  I  could  dwell  more  observantly  upon  the  main' features 
of  the  city,  which,  after  the  free  use  of  the  pocket-compass  were 
becoming  familiar  to  me.     The  first  remark  was,  that  every  me- 
ridional street  is  traversed  on  both  sides  by  a  streamlet  of  limpid 
water,  verdure-fringed,  and  gurgling  with  a  murmur  which  would 
make  a  Persian  Moollah  long  for  improper  drinks.     The  supplies 
are  brought  in  raised  and  hollowed  water-courses  from  Gity  Greek 
Red  Buttes,  and  other  kanyons  lying  north  and  east  of  the  settle- 
ment.    The  few  wells  are  never  less  than  forty -five  feet  deep- 
artesians  have  been  proposed  for  the  benches,  'but  the  expense 
has  hitherto  proved  an  obstacle.     Gitizens  can  now  draw  with 
scanty  trouble  their  drinking  water  in  the  morning,  when  it  is 
purest,  from  the  clear  and  sparkling  streams  that  flow  over  the 
pebbly  beds  before  their  doors.     The  surplus  is  reserved  for  the    ■ 
purposes  of  irrigation,  without  which,  as  the  "  distillation  from 
above    will  not  suffice,  Deserdt  would  still  be  a  desert,  and  what 
18  not  wanted  swells  the  Gity  Greek,  and  eventually  the  waves  of 
the  Jordan.    The  element,  which  flows  at  about  the  rate  of  four 


Chap.  IV. 


THE  HOLY  CITY. 


217 


miles  an  hour,  is  under  a  chief  water-master  or  commissioner  as- 
sisted by  a  water-master  in  each  ward,  and  by  a  deputy  in  each 
block,  all  sworn  to  see  the  fertilizing  fluid  fairly  distributed.  At 
the  corners  of  every  ward  there  is  a  water-gate  which  controls  the 
supplies  that  branch  off  to  the  several  blocks,  and  each  lot  of  one 
and  a  quarter  acres  is  allowed  about  three  hours'  irrigation  during 
the  week.  For  repairs  and  other  expenses  a  property  tax  of  one 
mill  per  dollar  is  raised,  and  the  total  of  the  impost  in  1860  was 
$1163  25.  The  system  works  like  clock-work.  "  The  Act  to  In- 
corporate the  Great  Salt  Lake  City  Water-works"  was  approved 
Januarv  21, 1853. 

Walking  in  a  northward  direction  up  Main,  otherwise  called 
Whisky  Street,  we  could  not  but  observe  the  "  magnificent  dis- 
tances" of  the  settlement,  which,  containing  9000 — 12,000  souls, 
covers  an  area  of  three  miles.  This  broadway  is  132  feet  wide, 
including  the  side-walks,  which  are  each  twenty,»and,  like  the 
rest  of  the  principal  avenues,  is  planted  with  locust  and  other 
trees.  There  are  twenty  or  twenty-one  wards  or  cantons,  num- 
bered from  the  S.E.  "  boustrophedon"  to  the  N .W.  corner.  They 
have  a  common  fence  and  a  bishop  apiece.  They  are  called  after 
the  creeks,  trees,  people,  or  positions,  as  Mill-Creek  Ward,  Little 
Cotton-wood,  Denmark,  and  South  Ward.  Every  ward  contains 
about  nine  blocks,  each  of  which  is  forty  rods  square.  The  area 
often  acres  is  divided  into  four  to  eight  lots,  of  two  and  a  half  to 
one  and  a  quarter  acres  each,  264  feet  by  182.  A  city  ordinance 
places  the  houses  twenty  feet  behind  the  front  line"  of  the  lot,' 
caving  an  intermediate  place  for  shrubbery  or  trees.  This  rule, 
aowever,  is  not  observed  in  Main  Street. 

The  streets  are  named  from  their  direction  to  the  Temple  Block. 
Thus  Main  Street  is  East  Temple  Street  JN*..  1 ;  that  behind  it  is 
State  Road,  or  East  Temple  Street  2,  and  so  lorth,  the  ward  being 
also  generally  specified.  Temple  Block  is  also  the  point  to  which 
latitude  and  longitude  are  referred.  It  lies  in  N.  lat.  40°  45'  44", 
W.  long.  (G.)  112°  6'  8",  and  4300  feet  above  sea  level. 

Main  Street  is  rapidly  becoming  crowded.  The  western  block, 
opposite  the  hotel,  contains  about  twentj?^  houses  of  irregular  shape 
and  size.  The  buildings  are  intended  to  supply  the  principal 
wants  of  a  far- Western  settlement,  as  bakery,  butchery,  and  black- 
smithery,  hardware  and  crockery,  paint  and  whip  warehouse,  a 
"fashionable  tailor" — and  "fashionable"  in  one  point,  that  his 
works  arc  more  expensive  than  Poole's  —  shoe-stores,  tannery 
and  curricry ;  the  Pantechnicon,  on  a  more  pretentious  style  than 
its  neighbors,  kept  by  Mr.  Gilbert  Clements,  Irishman  and  ora- 
tor; dry-goods,  groceries,  liquors,  and  furniture  shops.  Walker's 
agency,  and  a  kind  of  restaurant  for  ice-cream,  a  luxury  which 
costs  25  cents  a  glass;  saddlers,  dealers  in  "food,  flour,  and  pro- 
visions," hats,  shoes,  clothing,  sash  laths,  shingles,  timber,  copper, 
tin,  crockery- ware,  carpenters'  tools,  and  mouse-traps ;   a  watch- 


1 


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218 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


maker  and  repairer,  a  gunsmith,  locksmith,  and  armorer,  soap  and 
candle  maker,  nail-maker,  and  venders  of  "Yankee  notions."    On 
the  eastern  side,  where  the  same  articles  are  sold  on  a  larger  scale, 
live  the  principal  Gentile  merchants,  Mr.  Gilbert  and  Mr.  Nixonj 
an  English  Saint;    Mr.  E.  Gill,  a  "physiological  barber;"  Mr! 
Godbe's  "  apothecary  and  drug  stores ;"  Goddard's  confectionery; 
Messrs.  Hockaday  and  Burr,  general  dealers,  who  sell  every  thin^! 
from  a  bag  of  potatoes  to  a  yard  of  gold  lace ;  and  various  estab- 
lishments. Mormon  and  others.     Crossing  the  street  that  runs 
east  and  west,  we  pass  on  the  right  hand  a  small  block,  occupied 
by  Messrs.  Dyer  and  Co.,  sutlers  to  a  regiment  in  Arizona,  anil 
next  to  it  the  stores  of  Messrs.  Uooper  and  Cronyn,  with  an  am- 
brotype  and  daguerrean  room  behind.    The  stores,  I  may  remark, 
are  far  superior,  in  all  points,  to  the  shops  in  an  English  country 
town  that  is  not  a  regular  watering-place.     Beyond  tliis  lies  the 
adobe  house, '^ith  its  wooden  Ionic  stoop  or  piazza  (the  portico  is 
a  favorite  here),  and  well-timbered  garden,  occupied  by  Bisho]. 
Hunter;  and  adjoining  it  the  long  tenement  inhabited  by  the  sev- 
eral relicts  of  IMayor  Jedediah  M.  Grant.     Farther  still,  and  fac- 
ing the  Prophet's  Block,  is  the  larger  adobe  house  belonging  to 
General  Wells  and  Iiis  ilxmily.     Oi)posite,  or  on  the  western  side, 
IS  the  well-known  store  of  Livingston,  Bell,  and  Co.,  and  beyond 
it  the  establishment  now  belonging  to  the  nine  widows  and  the 
son  of  the  murdered  apostle.  Parley  P.  Pratt.    Still  looking  west- 
ward, tlie  Globe  bakery  and  icstaurant,  and  a  shaving  saloon,  lead 
to  the  "Mountaineer  Office,"  a  conspicuous  building,  forty-five 
feet  square,  two  storied,  on  a  foundation  of  cut  stone  stuccoed  red 
to  resemble  sandstone,  and  provided  with  a  small  green-balconied 
bclvidcre.     Tiie  cost  was  $20,000.     It  was  formerly  the  Council 
House,  and  was  lised  for  church  purposes.     When  jiurchased  by 
the  Territory  the  J*ublic  Library  was  established  in  tlie  northern 
part;  the  office  of  the  "  Deser(^t  News"  on  the  first  story,  and  that 
of  the  "  Mountaineer"  on  the  ground  floor.    This  brings  us  to  tlic 
1st  South  Temple  Street,  which  divides  the  "  Mountaineer"  office 
from  the  consecrated  ground.     In  this  vicinity  arc  the  houses  of 
most  of  the  apostles,  Messrs.  Taylor,  Cannon,  Woodruff,  and  0 
Pratt. 

Crowds  were  flocking  into  Temple  Block  for  afternoon  service- 
yet  I  felt  disappointed  bv  the  scene.  I  h.-ul  oxp.vt,Ml  to  see  traces 
ot  workmen  in  abundanc.>,  hewers  and  workers  of  stono  and 
timber,  and  all  manner  of  cunning  men  for  every  manner  of  work  " 
ratTto  find"'"  ^''^'''''  """  ^^"^  Sabbath.    I  thought,  at  anV 

,,       ,  "  |inn«  (liirrrc  miirnn 

Mollriqu,!  niccm,  ot  nmtiibiiH  siihvolvore  Biixa." 

It  seemed  hardly  in  accordance  with  the  energy  and  devoted- 
nosa  of  a  now  fiiith  that  a  hole  in  the  ground  should  represent 
tho  House  of  the  Lord,  while  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  the  Prophet 


Chap.  IV. 


THE  TEMPLE  BLOCK. 


219 


thinking  of  his  own  comfort  before  the  glory  of  God,  is  lodged, 
like  Solomon  of  old,  in  what  here  appears  a  palace.  Nor,  reflect- 
ing that  without  a  Temple  the  dead  can  not  be  baptized  out  of 
Purgatory,  was  I  quite  satisfied  when  reminded  of  the  fate  of  Nau- 
voo  (according  to  Gentiles  the  Mormons  believe  that  they  must 
build  nine  temples  before  they  will  be  suffered  to  worship  in  peace), 
and  informed  that  the  purely  provisional  works,  which  had  been 
interrupted  by  the  arrival  of  the  army  in  1858,  would  shortly  be 
improved. 

The  lines  of  Temple  Block — which,  as  usual,  is  ten  acres  square 
=forty  rods  each  way — run  toward  the  cardinal  points.  It  stands 
clear  of  all  other  buildings,  and  the  locust-trees,  especially  those  on 
the  sunny  south  side,  which  have  now  been  planted  seven  years, 
will  greatly  add  to  its  beauties.  It  is  surrounded  with  a  founda- 
tion wall  of  handsomely  dressed  red  sandstone,  raised  to  the  height 
of  ten  feet  by  adobe  stuccoed  over  to  resemble  a  richer  material. 
Each  facing  has  thirty  flat  pilastres,  without  pedestal  or  entabla- 
ture, but  protected,  as  the  adobe  always  should  be,  by  a  sandstone 
coping.  When  finished,  the  whole  will  be  surmounted  by  an  or- 
namental iron  fence.  There  are  four  gates,  one  to  each  side — of 
these,  two,  the  northern  and  western,  arc  temporarily  blocked  uj) 
with  dry  stone  walls,  while  the  others  are  left  open — which  in 
time  will  become  carriage  entrances,  with  two  side  ways  for  foot 
passengers.  According  to  accounts,  the  wall  and  the  foundations 
nave  already  cost  one  million  of  dollars,  or  a  larger  sum  than  that 
spent  upon  the  entire  Nauvoo  Temple. 

Temple  Block — the  only  place  of  public  and  general  worship 
in  the  city — was  consecrated  and  a  Tabernacle  was  erected  in  Sep- 
tember, 1847,  immediately  after  the  celebrated  exodus  from  "Egypt 
on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,"  on  a  spot  revealed  by  the  past 
to  the  present  Prophet  and  his  adherents.  Two  sides  of  tlic  wall 
having  been  completed,  ground  was  broken  on  the  14th  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1853,  for  the  foundation  of  the  building.  One  part  of  the 
ceremony  consisted  of  planting  a  post  at  tlie  central  point,  the 
main  "  stake  for  the  curtains  of  Zion :"  every  successive  step  in 
advance  was  commemorated  by  imposing  ceremonies,  salvos  of 
guns,  bands  playing,  crowds  attending,  addresses  by  tl.o  governor, 
Mr.  Brigham  Young,  prayers  and  pious  exercises.  The  founda- 
tions of  the  Tempi',  which  are  sixteen-feot  deep,  and  composed 
of  hard  gray  granite,  in  color  like  that  of  Aberdeen  or  Quincy, 
are  now  concealed  from  view;  and  the  lumber  huts  erected  for 
the  workmen  were,  when  the  Mormons  made  their  minor  Ilegira 
to  Provo  City,  removed  to  the  Sugar-house  Ward,  three  miles 
southeast  of  the  city. 

The  Temph^  l^lock  is  at  present  a  mere  waste.  A  ccntrnl  ex- 
cavation, whicli  res(>nibles  a  large  oblong  grave,  is  said  by  Gentiles 
to  bo  the  beginning  of  a  baptismal  font  twenty  feet  deep.  The 
southwestern  corner  is  occupied  by  the  Tabernacle,  an  adobe  build- 


■ 


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1 1 '      1 


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220 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


ing  126  feet  long  from  K  to  S.,  and  64  wide  from  E.  to  W. :  its 
interior,  ceilinged  with  an  elliptical  arch— the  width  being  its  span 
— can  accommodate  2000 — 3000  souls.    It  urgently  requires  en- 
larging.    Over  the  entrances  at  the  gable  ends,  which  open  to  the 
N.  and  S.,  is  a  wood-work  representing  the  sun,  with  his  usual 
coiffure  of  yellow  beams,  like  a  Somali's  wig,  or  the  symbol  of  the 
Persian  empire.     The  roof  is  of  shingles :  it  shelters  under  its  pro- 
jecting eaves  a  whole  colony  of  swallows,  and  there  are  four  chim- 
neys— a  number  insufficient  for  warmth  at  one  season,  or  for  ven- 
tilation at  the  other.     The  speaker  or  preacher  stands  on  the  west 
side  of  the  building,  which  is  reserved  for  the  three  highest  dig- 
nities, viz.,  the  First  Presidency,  the  "  Twelve"  (Apostles),  and  the 
President  of  the  State  of  Zion :  distinguished  strangers  are  also 
admitted.     Of  late,  as  in  the  old  Quaker  meeting-houses  at  Phila- 
il-lphia,  the  brethren  in  the  Tabernacle  have  been  separated  from 
the  "sistern,"  who  sit  on  the  side  opposite  the  preacher's  left;  and, 
according  to  Gentiles,  it  is  proposed  to  separate  the  Christians  from 
the  Faithful,  that  the  "goats"  may  no  longer  mingle  with  the  sheep. 
Immediately  north  of  the  Tabernacle  is  the  Bowery — in  early 
spring  a  canopy  of  green  leafy  branches,  which  are  left  to  wither 
with  the  year,  supported  on  wooden  posts.     The  interior  will  be 
described  when  we  attend  the  house  of  worship  next  Sunday. 

In  the  extreme  nortliwest  angle  of  the  block  is  the  Endowment, 
here  pronounced  On-dcivmmt  House,  sc])aralcd  from  the  Taber- 
nacle b_>  a  high  wooden  paling.     The  building,  of  which  I  made 
a  pen  and  ink  sketch  from  the  west,  is  of  adobe,  with  n  pent  roof 
and  four  windows,  one  blocked  up :  the  central  and  higher  por- 
tion is  flanked  by  two  wings,  smaller  erections  of  tlie  same  shape. 
The  Endowment  House  is  the  place  of  great  medicine,  and  all  ap- 
pertaining to  it  is  carefully  concealed  from  Gentile  eyes  and  ears: 
the  result  is  that  human  .sacrifices  are  said  to  be  performed  with- 
in its  walls.     Mm.  Smith  and  Ur.  Hyde  have  described  the  mys- 
terious rites  perfornuid  within  these  humble  walls,  but,  for  reasons 
given  before,  there  is  reason  to  doul)t  the  truth  of  their  descrip- 
tions; such  orgies  as  they  describe  could  not  coexist  with  the  re- 
sncctability  which  is  the  law  of  the  land.     Af.  J{emy  has  detailed 
the  programme  with  all  the  exactitude  of  an  eye-witness,  which 
ho  was  not.     Tlie  j)ublie  declare  that  the  ceremonies  consist  of 
some  show,  which  m  the  MiddN;  Ages  would  be  called  a  comedy 
or  mystery—nossibly  J'aradisc;  Lost  and  J'aradise  Regained— and 
connect  it  with  the  working  t)f  a  mason's  lodge.     The  res[)ectable 
Judge  Phelps,  because  supposed  fo  lake  the  })lace  of  the  Father  of 
Sin  wlien  tempting  Adam  and  Kve,  is  i)0|)ularly  known  as  "the 
Devil."    The  two  small  wings  are  said  to  contain  fonts  for  the 
two  sexes,  where  baj)tism  by  total  immersion  is  performed.     Ae- 
eordiiig  to  (rentiles,  the  ceremony  occupies  eleven  or  twelv(>  hours. 
Tho  neo})hyto,  after  bathing,  is  anointed  with  oil,  and  dressed  in 
clean  white  cotton  garments,  cap  and  shirt,  of  which  the  latter  iu 


hiUIVH^v^, 


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Chap.  IV.         THE  FUTURE  TEMl'LE.— MR,  STENHOUSE. 


223 


rarely  removed — Dr.  Richards  saved  his  life  at  the  Carthage  mas- 
sacre by  wearing  it  —  and  a  small  square  masonic  apron,  with 
worked  or  painted  fig-leaves :  he  receives  a  new  name  and  a  dis- 
tinguishing grip,  and  is  bound  to  secrecy  by  dreadful  oaths. 
Moreover,  it  is  said  that,  as  in  all  such  societies,  there  are  several 
successive  degrees,  all  of  which  are  not  laid  open  to  initiation  till 
the  Temple  shall  be  finished.  But — as  every  mason  knows — the 
"  red-hot  poker"  and  other  ideas  concerning  masonic  institutions 
have  prevailed  when  juster  disclosures  have  been  rejected.  Sim- 
ilarly in  the  Mormonic  mystery,  it  is  highly  probable  that,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  conscientious  reserve  of  the  people  upon  a  subject 
which  it  would  be  indelicate  to  broach,  the  veriest  fancies  have 
taken  the  deepest  root. 

The  other  features  of  the  inclosure  are  a  well  near  the  Taber- 
nacle, an  arched  sewer  in  the  western  wall  for  drainage,  and  at 
the  eastern  entrance  a  small  habitation  for  concierge  and  guards. 
The  future  Temple  was  designed  by  an  Anglo-Mormon  architect, 
Mr.  Truman  O.  Angell.  The  plan  is  described  at  full  length  in 
the  Latter-Day  Saints'  "  Millennial  Star,"  December  2, 1854,  and 
drawings,  apparently  copied  from  the  original  in  the  historian's  of- 
fice, have  been  published  at  Liverpool,  besides  the  small  sketches 
in  the  works  of  Mr.  Ilydc  and  M.  Remy.  It  is  hardly  worth 
while  here  to  trouble  the  general  reader  with  a  lengthy  descrip- 
tion of  a  huge  and  complicated  pile,  a  syncretism  of  Greek  and 
Roman,  Gothic  and  Moorish,  not  revealed  like  that  of  Nauvoo, 
but  planned  by  man,  which  will  probably  never  be  completed.  It 
lias  been  transferred  to  the  Appendix  (No.  II.),  for  the  benefit  of 
students:  after  briefly  saying  that  the  whole  is  symbolical,  and 
that  it  is  intended  to  dazzle,  by  its  ineffable  majesty,  the  behold- 
er's sight,  I  will  repeat  the  architect's  concluding  words,  which 
are  somewhat  in  the  style  of  Parr's  Life  Pills  advertisements : 
"  For  other  particulars,  wait  till  the  house  is  done,  then  come  and 
see  it." 

After  dining  with  the  governor,  wo  sat  under  the  stoop  enjoy- 
ing, as  we  might  in  India,  the  cool  of  the  evening.  Several  visit- 
ors dropped  in,  among  them  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stcnhousc.  lie — Elder 
T.  B.  II.  Stcnhousc  • — ia  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  and  has  passed 
through  the  usual  stages  of  neophyte  (larva),  missionary  (pupa), 
and  elder  or  fully-developed  Sanit  (imago).  Madame  was  from 
Jersey,  spoko  excellent  French,  talked  English  without  nasaliza- 
tion or  cantalenation,  and  showed  a  higlily  cultivated  mitKl.  She 
had  traveled  with  her  husband  on  a  propagandist  tour  to  Switz- 
erland and  Italy,  where,  as  president  of  the  missions  for  three 
years,  he  was  a  "diligent  and  faithful  laborer  in  tlie  great  work 
of  the  last  dispensation."  lie  became  a  Saint  in  1816,  at  the  ago 
of  21 ;  lived  the  usual  life  of  poverty  and  privation,  founded  the 
Southampton  Conference,  converted  a  lawyer  among  other  great 
achievements,  nn<l  propngated  the  Faith  successfully  in  Scotland 


;.i| 


h 


224 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  IV. 


as  in  England.  The  conversation  turned — sometow  in  Great  Salt 
Lake  City  it  generally  does — upon  polygamy,  or  rather  plurality, 
which  here  is  the  polite  word,  and  for  the  iirst  time  I  heard  that 
phase  of  the  family  tie  sensibly,  nay,  learnedly  advocated  on  re- 
ligious grounds  by  fair  lips.  Mr.  Stenhouse  kindly  offered  to  ac- 
company me  on  the  morrow,  as  the  first  hand-cart  train  was  ex- 
pected to  enter,  and  to  point  out  what  might  be  interesting.  I 
saw  Elder  and  High-Priest  Stenhouse  almost  every  day  during 
my  stay  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  found  in  his  society  both 
pleasure  and  profit.  We  of  course  avoided  those  mysterious 
points,  into  which,  as  an  outsider,  I  had  no  right  to  enter ;  the  el- 
der was  communicative  enough  upon  all  others,  and  freely  gave 
me  leave  to  use  his  information.  The  reader,  however,  will  kind- 
ly bear  in  mind  that,  being  a  strict  Mormon,  Mr.  Stenhouse  could 
enlighten  me  only  upon  one  side  of  the  subject;  his  statements 
were  therefore  carefully  referred  to  the  "other  part;"  moreover, 
as  he  could  never  see  any  but  the  perfections  of  his  system,  the 
blame  of  having  pointed  out  what  I  deem  its  imperfections  is  not 
to  be  charged  upon  him.  His  power  of  faith  struck  me  much. 
I  had  once  asked  him  what  became  of  the  Mormon  Tables  of  the 
Law,  the  Golden  Plates  which,  according  to  the  Gentiles,  were  re- 
moved by  an  angel  after  they  had  done  their  work.  He  replied 
that  he  knew  not ;  that  his  belief  was  independent  of  all  such  ac- 
cidents ;  that  Mormonism  is  and  must  be  true  to  the  exclusion  of 
all  other  systems.  I  saw  before  me  an  instance  how  the  brain  or 
mind  of  man  can,  by  mere  force  of  habit  and  application,  imbue 
itself  with  any  idea. 

Long  after* dark  I  walked  home  alone.  There  were  no  lamps 
in  any  but  Main  Street,  yet  the  city  is  as  safe  as  at  St.  James's 
Square,  London.  There  arc  perhaps  not  more  than  twenty-five 
or  thirty  constables  or  policemen  in  the  whole  place,  under  their 
captain,  a  Scotchman,  Mr. Sharp,  "by  name  as  well  as  nature  so;" 
and  tlie  guard  on  public  works  is  merely  nominal.  Its  excellent 
order  must  be  referred  to  the  perfect  system  of  private  police,  re- 
sulting from  the  constitution  of  ^formon  society,  which  in  this 
point  resembles  tlio  caste  system  of  Hindooism.  There  is  no  se- 
cret from  the  head  of  the  Church  and  State ;  every  thing,  from 
the  highest  to  the  lowest  detail  of  private  and  public  life,  must  be 
brought  to  the  car  and  submitted  to  the  judgment  of  the  fathr-r- 
confessor-in-chief.  Gentiles  often  declare  tliat  the  Prophet  is  ac- 
quainted with  their  every  word  half  an  liour  after  it  is  spoken; 
and  from  certiiin  indices,  into  which  I  hardly  need  enter,  my  opin- 
ion is  that,  allowing  something  for  exaggeration,  they  are  not  very 
far  wrong.  In  TiOndon  ajid  Paris  tlic  foreigner  is  subjected,  though 
perhaps  lie  may  not  know  it,  to  the  same  surv(MlIance,  and  till 
lately  his  letters  were  liable  to  be  opened  at  llie  Post-oflice.  We 
can  not,  then,  wonder  that  at  Great  Salt  liukc  Cit}',  a  stranger, 
before  proving  himself  at  the  least  to  be  harmless,  should  begin 
bv  bcimr  an  obiect  of  suspicion. 


Chap.  IV. 


A  MURDER.— SAFETY  OF  THE  CITY. 


225 


On  Monday,  as  the  sun  was  sloping  toward  the  east,  Mr.  Sten- 
house  called  to  let  me  know  that  the  train  had  already  issued 
from  Emigration  Kanyon ;  no  time  to  spare.  We  set  out  together 
"down  town"  at  once.  Near  the  angle  of  Main  Street  I  was 
shown  the  place  where  a  short  time  before  my  arrival  a  curious 
murder  was  committed.  Two  men,  named  Johnston  and  Brown 
mauvais  svjets,  who  had  notoriously  been  guilty  of  forgery  and 
horse-stealing,  were  sauntering  home  one  fine  evening,  when  both 
fell  with  a  bullet  to  each,  accurately  placed  under  the  heart-arm 
The  bodies  were  carried  to  the  court-house,  which  is  here  the 
morgue  or  dead-house,  to  be  exposed,  as  is  the  custom,  for  a  time- 
the  citizens,  when  asked  if  they  suspected  who  did  the  deed,  inva- 
riably replied  with  a  philosophical  sangfroid,  that,  in  the  first 
place,  they  didn't  know,  and,  secondly,  that  they  didn't  care  Of 
course  the  Gentiles  hinted  that  life  had  been  taken  by  "  counsel" 
—that  IS  to  say,  by  the  secret  orders  of  Mr.  Brigham  Young  and 
his  Vehm.  But,  even  had  such  been  the  case— of  course  it  was 
the  merest  suspicion— such  a  process  would  not  have  been  very 
repugnant  to  that  wild  huntress,  the  Themis  of  the  Eocky  Mount- 
ains. In  a  place  where,  among  much  that  is  honest  and  respect- 
able, thereare  notable  exceptions,  this  wild,  unflinching,  and  un- 
erring justice^  secret  and  sudden,  is  the  rod  of  iron  which  protects 
the  good.  During  my  residence  at  the  Mormon  City  not  a  sincrle 
murder  was,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  committed :  the  three  days 
which  I  spent  at  Christian  Carson  City  witnessed  three.  Moreover 
from  the  Mississippi  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  I  noticed  that  the 
crimes  were  for  the  most  part  of  violence,  openly  and  unskillfully 
com^mitted;  the  arsenic,  strychnine,  and  other  dastardly  poisonings 
of  Europe  are  apparently  unknown,  although  they  might  be  used 
easily  and  efficiently  with  scant  chance  of  detection.  That  white 
emigrants  have  sometimes  wiped  off"  the  Indian,  as  the  English 
settler  settled  with  corrosive  sublimate  the  hapless  denizen  of  the 
great  Southern  Continent,  is  scarcely  to  be  doubted ;  at  the  same 
time,  it  must  bo  owned  that  they  have  rarely  tried  that  form  of 
assassination  upon  one  another. 

As  wo  issued  from  the  city,  we  saw  the  smoke-like  column 
which  announced  that  the  emigrants  were  crossing  the  bench- 
land;  and  people  were  hurrying  from  all  sides  to  greet  and  to  get 
news  of  friends.  Presently  the  carts  came.  All  the  new  arrivals 
were  in  clean  clothes,  the  men  washed  and  shaved,  and  tlie  girls, 
who  were  singing  hymns,  habited  in  Sunday  dresses.  The  com- 
pany was  sunburned,  but  looked  well  and  thoroughly  happy,  and 
few,  except  the  very  young  and  the  very  old,  who  suflx^r  most  on 
sucli  journeys,  troubled  the  wains.  They  marched  through  clouds 
of  dust  over  the  sandy  road  leading  up  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
town,  accompanied  by  crowds,  sonie  on  foot,  others  on  horseback, 
and  a  few  in  traps  and  other  "locomotive  doin's,"  sulkies,  and 
buckboards.    A  few  youths  of  rather  a  rowdjish  appearance 


^'53 

i 

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, 

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226 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


were  mounted  in  all  the  tawdriness  of  Western  trappings — Rocky 
Mountain  hats,  tall  and  broad,  or  steeple-crowned  felts,  covering 
their  scalp-locks,  embroidered  buckskin  garments,  huge  leggins, 
with  caterpillar  or  millepede  fringes,  red  or  rainbow-colored  flan- 
nel shirts,  gigantic  spurs,  bright-hilted  pistols,  and  queer-sheathed 
knives  stuck  in  red  sashes  with  gracefully  depending  ends.  The 
jeunessc  doree  of  the  Valley  Tan  was  easily  distinguished  from  im- 
ported goods  by  the  perfect  ease  with  which  they  sat  and  man- 
aged their  animals.  Around  me  were  all  manner  of  familiar 
faces — heavy  English  mechanics,  discharged  soldiers,  clerks,  and 
agricultural  laborers,  a  few  German  students,  farmers,  husband- 
men, and  peasants  from  Scandinavia  and  Switzerland,  and  corre- 
spondents and  editors,  bishops,  apostles,  and  other  dignitaries  from 
the  Eastern  States.  When  the  train  reached  the  public  square — 
at  Great  Salt  Lake  City  the  "squares"  are  hollow  as  in  England, 
not  solid  as  in  the  States — of  the  8th  ward,  the  wagons  were 
ranged  in  line  for  the  final  ceremony.  Before  the  invasion  of  the 
army  the  First  President  made  a  point  of  honoring  the  entrance 
of  hand-cart  trains  (but  these  only)  by  a  greeting  in  person.  Of 
late  he  seldom  leaves  his  house  except  for  the  Tabernacle :  when 
inclined  for  a  picnic,  the  day  and  the  hour  arc  kept  secret.  It  is 
said  that  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  despite  his  powerful  will  and  high 
moral  courage,  does  not  show  the  remarkable  personal  intrepidity 
of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith :  his  followers  deny  this,  but  it  rests  on  the 
best  and  fairest  Gentile  evidence.  He  has  guards  at  his  gates, 
and  he  never  appears  in  public  unattended  by  friends  and  folio  *v- 
ers,  who  are  of  course  armed.  That  such  a  mental  anomaly  often 
exists,  those  familiar  with  the  biographies  of  the  Brahmin  ofPicialfj 
at  the  courts  of  Poonah,  Sattara,  and  other  places  in  India,  well 
know :  many  a  "  Pant,"  whose  reckless  audacity  in  intrigue  con- 
ducted under  imminent  danger  of  life  argued  the  courage  of  a 
Coeur  de  Lion,  was  personally  fearful  as  llobbcs,  and  displayed 
at  the  death  the  terrors  of  Kobespierrc.  A  moment  of  fear  is"  re- 
counted of  St.  Peter;  Erasmus  was  not  the  stuff  of  which  martyrs 
arc  made,  and  even  the  hcau  sahrcur  once  ran.  However,  in  the 
case  of  the  Prophet  there  is  an  absolute  necessity  for  precautions: 
as  Gentiles  have  themselves  owned  to  me,  many  a  ruffian,  if  he 
found  an  opportunity,  would,  from  ])ure  love  of  notoriety,  even 
without  stronger  incentive,  try  hia  revolver  or  his  bowie-knifo 
upon  the  '*  Big  Mormon." 

On  tlii.i  occasion  the  place  of  !^^r.  Brigham  Young  was  taken 
by  President  Bishop  Hunter,  a  Pcnnsylvanian,  whom  even  tlic 
most  fanatic  and  intentionally  evil-speaking  anti-Mormon  must 
regard  with  respect.     Preceded  by  a  brass  band — "this  people" 


delight  in 


"  Sonorous  metal  blowing  martial  sounds"- 


and  accompanied  by  the  City  ^^arsha^,  lu;  stood  up  in  his  convey- 
ance, and,  calling  up  the  Captains  of  Companies,  shook  hands  with 


Chap.  IV. 


SAINTS'  NAMES.— A  "GOWK." 


227 


them  and  proceeded  forthwitli  to  business.  In  a  short  timp  or 
rangements  were  made  to  house  and  employ  all  who  Srfd 
work,  whether  merf  or  women.  Having  read  certain  offensive 
accounts  abou  "^irl-huntmg  elders,"  "gray-headedgallan?s  "  and 
'oghng  apostles,^  I  was  somewhat  surprised  to  see  that  every 
thing  was  conducted  with  the  greatest  Secorum.  The  GentiLT 
however,  declare  that  Mr.  Brigham  Young  and  the  highXn  S 
ries  have  issued  an  order  against  "pre-emption"  on  th6  part  of 
fcr^ss^heTaK'^  ""^'  ^^'  accompan^  the  emigrant^rlin^ 
Mr.  Stenhouse  circulated  freely  among  the  crowd  and  intro- 
duced me  to  many  whose  names'l  do  n?t  remember ;  in  a  most 
every  case  the  introduction  was  followed  by  some  invitation     He 

witi  Sat  'Iw ''^"'^f  ^^*^  '^''  " ^rot^''^"  '^'^  ^  f«^^  «^-tenfes 
?  lln  c?.  '  rp?'^?"^  suppressing  the  Mr.  andMadam  of  the 

Eastern  States.     The  fraternal  address  gives  a  patriarchal  and 
somewhat  Oriental  flavor  to  Mormon  conv^se;  liCTer  things 
however,  it  is  apt  to  run  into  extremes.     If  a  boy  m  the  street-^ 
be  asked,  "  What's  your  name  ?"  he  will  rcply-if L  condeSs 
to  do  so-"  I'm  brother  such-and-such's  son.''     In  order  to  SSn- 
guish  children  of  different  mothers,  it  is  usual  to  prefix  the  ma- 
ternal to  the  paternal  parent's  name,  suppressing  the  given  or 
Christian  name  of  monogamic  lands.     Thus,  for  instance,  my  sons 
by  Miss  Brown  Miss  Jones,  and  Miss  Eobinson,  would  call  them 
selves  Brother  Brown  Burton,  Brother  Jones  Burton,  and  so  on 
ihe  baints-even  the  highest  dignitaries-wave  the  Reverend  and 
the  ridiculous  Esquire;  that  "title  much  in  use  among  vulgar 
people,    which  in  Old  and  New  England  applies  to  eveW  body 
gentle  or  simple,  has  not  yet  extended  to  Great  Salt  Lalce  City: 
ihe  Mormon  pontiff  anc  the  eminences  around  him  are  simply 
Brother  or  Mistcr-they  have  the  substance,  and  they  disdain  the 
shadow  of  power     m  revanche,  among  th^  crowd  there  are  as 
many  colonels  and  majors-about  ten  being  the  proportion  to  one 
captain-as  in  the  daj;s  when  Mrs.  Trollope  set  the  Mississippi  on 
^iLutTnl  1  i''PP-'''^  to  women  of  all  ages,  thus  avoiding  the 
difficulty  of  addressing  a  dowager,  as  in  the  Eastern  States,  Mad- 
am, ni  contradistinction  to  Mrs.,  her  daughter-in-law,  or,  what  is 

Mrrricnior'^'    ''     '''  '^^'"^'  '^^'^'  °^^  ^^''-  ^•'  °^'  ^'^««^"^^' 

The  divss  of  the  fair  sex  has,  I  observed,  already  become  pe- 
culmr.  The  article  called  in  Cornwall  a  "gowk,"  in  other  pa?^ 
of  England  a  "cottage  bonnet,"  and  in  the  United  States  a  "sui> 
bonnet,  is  here  universally  used,  with  the  difference,  however, 
that  the  Mormons  provide  it  with  a  long  thick  veil  behind,  which 
acts  like  a  capo  or  shawl.     A  loose  jacket  and  a  petticoat,  mostly 

0  cal.co  or  of  some  inexpensive  stuff,  compose  the  torit  visibi 

1  he  wc^ilt Iner  affect  silks,  especially  black.     The  merchants  aro 
careful  to  keep  on  hand  a  large  stock  of  fancy  goods,  millinery 


I 


'r.    i  1 


1  '";;i 

\    -l^l.lJlEtt- 


ilk 


228 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


and  other  feminine  adornments.  Love  of  dress  is  no  accident  in 
the  mental  organization  of  that  sex  which  some  one  called  Z^jov 
^tXoKOff/uov ;  the  essential  is  a  pleasing  foible^  in  which  the  semi- 
nude  savage  and  the  crinolined  "  civilizee,"  the  nun  and  Quaker- 
ess, the  sinner  and  the  saint,  the  liche,  the  petite  maitresse,  and  the 
grande  dame,  all  meet  for  once  in  their  lives  pretty  much  on  a  par, 
and  on  the  same  ground.  Great  Salt  Lake  City  contains  three 
"  millinery  stores,"  besides  thirteen  of  dry  goods  and  two  of  fancy 
goods,  or  varieties ;  and  some  exchange  their  merchandise  for 
grain. 

The  contrast  oi physique  between  the  new  arrivals  and  the  older 
colonists,  especially  those  born  in  the  vicinity  of  the  prairies,  was 
salient.  While  the  fresh  importations  were  of  that  solid  and 
sometimes  clumsy  form  and  dimensions  that  characterize  the  En- 
glish at  home — where  "  beauty  is  seldom  found  in  cottages  or 
T7orkshops,  even  when  no  real  hardships  are  suffered" — the  others 
had  much  of  the  delicacy  of  figure  and  complexion  which  distin- 
guishes the  American  women  of  the  United  States.  Physiologists 
may  perhaps  doubt  so  rapid  and  perceptible  an  operation  of  cli- 
mate, but  India  proves  clearly  enough  that  a  very  few  years  suffice 
to  deteriorate  form  and  color,  especially  in  the  weaker  half  of  hu- 
manity ;  why,  then,  should  we  tnink  it  impossible  that  a  climate 
of  extremes,  an  air  of  exceeding  purity  and  tenuity,  and  an  arid 
position  4000  feet  above  sea  level,  can  produce  the  opposite  results 
m  as  short  a  space  of  time  ?  But,  whether  my  theory  stand  or  fall, 
the  fact  remains  the  same.  I  remarked  to  my  companion  the 
change  from  the  lymphatic  and  the  sanguine  to  the  bilious-nervous 
and  the  purely  nervous  temperament,  and  admired  its  results,  the 
fining  down  of  redundancy  in  wrist,  ankle,  and  waist,  the  superior 
jlacidness  and  thoughtfulness  of  expression,  and  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  higher  caste  blood.  I  could  not  but  observe  in  those 
Dorn  hereabouts  the  noble  regular  features,  the  lofty,  thoughtful 
brow,  the  clear,  transparent  complexion,  the  long  silky  hair,  and, 
greatest  charm  of  all,  the  soft  smile  of  the  American  woman  when 
she  does  smile.  He  appeared  surprised,  and  said  that  most  other 
Gentiles  had  explained  the  thinness  of  form  and  reflective  look 
by  the  perpetual  fretting  of  the  fair  under  the  starveling  regime 

of  polygamy.    The  belle  of  the  crowd  was  Miss  Sally  A ,  the 

daughter  of  a  lawyer,  and  of  course  a  ci  devant  judge.  Strict  Mor- 
mons, however,  rather  wag  the  head  at  this  pretty  person ;  she  is 
supposed  to  prefer  Gentile  and  heathenish  society,  and  it  is  whis- 
pered against  her  that  she  has  actually  vowed  never  to  marry  a 
Saint. 

I  "queried"  of  my  companion  how  the  new  arrivals  usually 
behave  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  when  the  civilization,  or  rather 
the  humanization  of  a  voyage,  a  long  journey,  and  the  sense  of 
helplossncss  caused  by  new  position,  have  somewhat  mitigated 
their  British  bounce  and  self-esteem.     "  Pretty  well,"  ho  replied ; 


CUAP.  IV.  AN  ILLUSTRATION—THEATRICALS.  £29 

"all  expect  to  be  at  the  top  of  the  tree  at  once,  and  they  find  them- 
selves  m  the  wrong  box;  no  man  gets  on  here  by  pushing  he 
begins  at  the  lowest  seat;  a  new  hand  is  not  trusted-  he  if  first 
sent  on  mission  then  married,  and  then  allowed  to  rise  hi-her  if 
he  shows  himself  useful."    This  bore  a  cachet  of  truth : 

Les  sots  sont  un  peuple  nombreux, 
Tiouvant  toutes  choses  faciles  ; 

II  faut  le  leur  passer;  souvent  ils  sont  heureiix 
Grand  motif  do  sc  croire  habiles.  ' 

{L'Ane  et  la  Flute.) 

Many  of  these  English  emigrants  have  passed  over  the  plains 
without  knowing  that  they  are  in  the  IJnited  States,  anihok 
upon  Mr.  Bngham  Young  much  as  Eoman  Catholics  of  "he  lasl 
generation  regarded  the  Pope.     The  Welsh,  Danes,  and  Swedes 
have  been  seen  on  the  transit  to  throw  away  their  blanket!  and 
warm  clothing,  from  a  conviction  that  a  gay  summer  reigns 
throughou   the  year  in  Zion.     The  mismanalement  oTthe  S- 
nerienced  travelers  has  become  a  matter  of  Joe  MUler     An  oS 
bu  favorite  illustration,  told  from  the  Mississippi  to  Califotnia  is 
thi  :  A  man  rides  up  to  a  standing  wagon,  ani  seeing  a  wre?ch 
ed-looking  lad  nursing  a  starving  babyfasks  him  whft  thL  mat 
ter  may  be:  "  Wal,  now,"  responds  the  youth,  ''gurssl'rn  kiSr 
streakt-ole  dad's  drunk,  ole  marm's  in  hysterics  brother  Jim 
be  p  aying  pokerwith  two  gamblers,  sister  Sal's  do^n  yonSer  S^ 
cour  in  witli  an  in-tire  stranger,  this  'ere  baby's  got  tlie  diaree 
the  teams  clean  guv  out,  the  wagon's  broken-down,  it's  twentv 
miles  to  the  next  water,  I  don't  care  a if  I  never  see  cS 

We  returned  homeward  by  the  States  Road,  in  which  are  two 
of  the  principal  buildings.    On  the  left  is  the  Council  Hall  of  the 
Seventies  an  adobe  tenement  of  the  usual  barn  shape,  fifty  feet 
long  by  thirty  internally,  used  for  the  various  purpose    of  5e^^b 
eration,  preaching,  and  dancing;  I  looked  through  the  windows 
and  saw  that  It  was  hung  with  red.    It  is  a  provisional  hSS 

tTAr?!    o'i''^T.''^.^  ^rf  ted.    A  little^eyond  the  SeveS 
ties  Uall  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  road,  was  the  Social  Hall 
the  usual  scene  of  Mormon  festivities;  it  resembled  the  former 
but  It  was  larger-73  x  33  feet-and  better  furnished.    The  gay 
season  had  not  arrived;  I  lost,  therefore,  an  opportunity  of  lei 

loiltto  hnfrt  '".^  ^''^r  "^  ^''''  ^'^'  I^^ke^fcity  inUlroom 
toilette,  but  I  heard  enough  to  convince  me  that  the  Saints  though 
grave  and  unjovia],  are  a  highly  sociable  people.  They  delight 
in  s  eighing  and  in  private  theatricals,  and  boast  of  some  good 

an  W.  C.  Dunbar  are  particularly  mentioned.  Sir  E.  L  Bulwer 
will  perhaps  be  pleased  to  hear  that  the  "Lady  of  Lvons"  ex- 
cited  more  furore  here  than  even  in  Europe.  It  is  intended  as 
soon  as  funds  can  be  collected,  to  build  a  tlieatre  which  will  vi^ 


1  t_.il  i- 


i    ! 


J  '  A.' 


230 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  l\ . 


with  those  of  the  Old  Countr3^  Dancing  seems  to  be  considered 
an  edifying  exercise.  The  Prophet  dances,  the  Apostles  dance, 
the  Bishops  dance.  A  professor  of  this  branch  of  the  fine  arts 
would  thrive  in  Zion,  where  the  most  learned  of  pedagogues 
would  require  to  eke  out  a  living  after  the  fashion  of  one  Aristo- 
cles,  surnamed  the  "broad-shouldered."  The  saltation  is  not  in 
the  languid,  done-up  style  that  polite  Europe  affects ;  as  in  the 
days  of  our  grandparents,  "positions"  arc  maintained,  steps  are 
elaborately  executed,  and  a  somewhat  severe  muscular  exercise 
is  the  result.  I  confess  to  a  prejudice  against  dancing  after  the 
certain,  which  we  are  told  is  the  uncertain,  epoch  of  life,  and  have 
often  joined  in  the  merriment  excited  among  French  folks  by  the 
aspect  of  some  bald-headed  and  stiff-jointed  "Anglais"  mingling 
crabbed  age  with  joyful  youth  in  a  public  ball.  Yet  there  is  high 
authority  for  perseverance  in  the  practice :  David  danced,  we  are 
told,  with  all  his  might,  and  Scipio,  according  to  Seneca,  was  wont 
thus  to  exercise  his  heroic  limbs. 

Besides  the  grand  fetes  at  the  Social  Hall  and  other  subscrip- 
tion establishments,  there  are  "Ward  Parties,"  and  "Elders' 
Weekly  Cotillon  Parties,"  where  possibly  the  seniors  dance  to- 
gether, as  the  Oxford  dons  did  drill— in  private.  Polkas,  as  at 
the  court  of  St.  James's,  are  disapproved  of  It  is  generally  as- 
serted that  to  the  New  Faith  Terpsichore  owes  a  fresh  form  of 
worship,  the  Mormon  cotillon— alias  quadrille— in  which  the  cav- 
alier leads  out,  characteristically,  two  dames.  May  I  not  be  al- 
lowed to  recommend  the  importatio.i  of  this  decided  improve- 
ment into  Leamington  and  other  watering-places,  where  the  pro- 
portion of  the  sexes  at  "  hops"  rarely  exceeds  one  to  seven  ? 

The  balls  at  the  Social  Hall  are  highly  select,  and  are  con- 
ducted on  an  expensive  scale ;  invitations  are  issued  on  embossed 
bordered  and  gilt-edged  white  paper,  say  to  75 — 80  of  the  elite, 
including  a  few  of  the  chief  Gentiles.  The  ticket  is  in  this  form 
and  style : 


Mr. - and  Ladies  are  respectfully  invited  to  attend  a 

Party  at  the  SOCIAL  HALL, 

ON    TUESDAY,  FEBRUARY   7,  1860. 

Tickets,  $110  (£2);.cr  Cwtpk. 

IMayor  A.  O.  S3M00T,  >  ,, „„ 

Marshal  J.  C.  LITTLE,  ]  Man^K^s. 


ffiommfttec  of  Slrrnnacmcttts. 


William  C.  Staineb, 

H.   H.  ('I.AW80N, 

Gnat  Salt  Lake.  Ciljf, 
leb.  1, 1800. 


Wn.LlAM  Kddinoton, 

KOUKBT   T.  lirUTON, 


John  T.  Caink, 
David  Candlanp. 


-J 


Chap.  IV, 


THE  SUPPER.— DANCING. 


2S1 


The  $10  tickets  will  admit  only  one  lady  with  the  gentleman ; 
for  a  1  extra  $2  each  must  be  paid.  In  the  less  splendid  fetes 
$2  50  would  be  the  total  price.  Premiums  are  offered  when  the 
time  draws  nigh,  but  space  is  limited,  and  many  a  Jacob  is  shorn 
of  his  glory  by  appearing  with  only  Eachel  for  a  follower  and 
without  his  tram  of  Leahs,  Zilpahs,  and  Billahs.  ' 

An  account  of  the  last  ball  may  be  abridged.  The  hall  was 
tastefully  and  elegantly  decorated;  the  affecting  motto  "Our 
Mountain  Home,"  conspicuouly  placed  among  hangings  and  ever- 
greens, was  highly  effective.  At  4  P.M.  the  Prophet  and  ex- 
President  entered,  and  "order  was  called."  (N.B.— Mioht  not 
this  be  tried  to  a  purpose  in  a  London  ball-room?)  Ascending 
a  kind  of  platform,  with  uplifted  hands  he  blessed  those  present 
farther  i.ast  I  have  heard  of  the  reverse  being  done,  especiallv  by 
the  maitre  du  logis.  He  then  descended  to  the  boards  and  led 
off  the  first  cotillon  At  8  P.M.  supper  was  announced;  covers 
?m,^''?.F°/'^P'  ^^"^  ^°^^  ^'^^^  by  Mr.Candland,  "mine  host"  of 
'  Ibe  Globe.  On  the  following  page  will  be  found»the  list  of 
the  somewhat  substantial  goodies  that  formed  the  carte 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  cuisine  in  Utah  Territory  has  some 
novelties,  such  as  bear  and  beaver.  The  former  meat  is  a  favor- 
ite throughout  the  West,  especially  when  the  animal  is  fresh  from 
feeding ;  after  hibernation  it  is  hard  and  lean.  In  the  Himalayas 
many  a  sportsman,  after  mastering  an  artificial  aversion  to  eat 
bears  grease,  has  enjoyed  a  grill  of  "cuffy."  The  paws,  which 
not  a  little  resemble  the  human  hand,  are  excellent— eoyerto  crede 
I  can  not  pronounce  ex  cathedrd  upon  beavers'  tails;  there  is  no 
reason,  however,  why  they  should  be  inferior  to  the  appendage 
of  a  Cape  sheep.  "  Slaw"— according  to  my  informants— is  sv- 
nonymous  with  sauer-kraut.  Mountain,  Pioneer,  and  Snowballs 
arc  unknown  to  me,  except  by  their  names,  which  are  certainly 
patriotic,  if  not  descriptive.  "^ 

After  supper  dancing  was  resumed  with  spirit,  and  in  its  inter- 
vals popular  songs  and  duets  were  performed  by  the  best  musi- 
cians. The  "finest  party  of  tlo  season"  ended  as  it  began,  with 
prayer  and  benediction,  at  5  A.M.— thirteen  successiv-e  mortal 
hours— It  shows  a  solid  power  of  enduring  enjoyments'  And 
mobably,  the  revelers  wended  their  way  home  chanting  some 
kind  of  national  hymn  hke  this,  to  the  tune  of  the  "Ole  Kentucky 

"Lot  the  chorus  still  bo  sung, 
Lour  live  Brother  Briglinm  Youtifj. 
Anil  hlessoil  be  the  Vale  of  Deserct-re't— re't  I 
And  blessed  be  the  Vale  of  Deserct." 

Eeturning  to  the  hotel,  we  found  the  justiciary  and  the  official 
Pfi^/i^''  o^  F^ivcd;  they  had  been  delayed  three  days  at  Foot 
of  Ridge  Station  but  they  could  not  complain  of  the  pace  at  which 
they  came  in.    The  judge  was  already  in  confab  with  a  Pennsyl-' 


/'/ ! 


' )  .'I 


''  'I 


232 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CuAp,  lY. 


TEREITOEIAL   AND    CIVIL   BALL, 

SOCIAL  HALL,  Februakt  7,  1860. 
BILL    OF    KARK. 


Oyster, 
Ox-tail, 


Hoast. 
Beef, 

Mutton, 
Mountain  Muttou, 

}}enr, 
l\k, 
Deer, 
Chickens, 
Ducks, 
Turkeys. 


jfltBt  Course, 
socrs. 

Vermicelli, 
Vegetable. 

Seconti  Course. 

MEATS. 

Boiled. 
Sugar-corned  beef, 
Mutton, 
Chickens, 
Ducks, 
Tripe, 
Turkey, 
n.im. 
Trout, 
Salmon. 


Oysters  and  Ox  Tongues, 
Hoaver  Tails, 
CoUard  Head, 


8TEW8  AND  FRICASSEES. 

Chickens, 

Ducks, 

Turkeys. 


"EnETABLES. 
BoUcd. 
Potatoes, 

Cabbage  (t.  *.,  greens), 
Parsnips, 
Cauliflov/er, 
Slaw. 

Hominy. 


Bnked. 
Potiitoes, 
Parsnips, 
Ucnns. 


ctrrn 

Mince  Pics, 
Green  Apple  Pic, 
Pineapple  Pie, 
Quince  Jcliy  Pie, 
Prach  Jolly  Pie. 
Currant.  .Icll''  Pie. 

Uluncmangc. 


Course. 

Puddlnffg. 
Custards, 
llice, 

Ivnglish  Plnm, 
Apple  Souftid, 
Mountain, 
Pioneer. 
Jellies. 


^ourtb  Course. 


Caltt. 
Pound, 
SfMinge, 
CiipKy, 
Varietiw. 


Candles. 
Tea. 


Fniifii, 
Kaihins, 
(i  rapes. 
Apples, 
Hnowballf. 

Nuti. 

Coffoo. 


Chap.  IV. 


RELIGIOUS  ACRIMONY.— CLIQUISH. 


233 


vanian  compatriot,  Colonel  S.  C.  Stambaugh,  of  tlie  Militia,  Sur- 
veyor General  of  Utah  Territory.  This  gentleman  is  no  great 
favorite  with  the  Saints :  they  accuse  him  of  a  too  great  skillful- 
ness  in  "  mixing" — cocktails,  for  instance — and  a  degree  of  gen- 
eral joviality  that  swears  {qui  jure)  with  the  grave  and  reverend 
seigniory  around  him.  His  crime,  it  appears  to  me,  chiefly  con- 
sists in  holding  a  fat  appointment.  I  need  hardly  say  that  at 
Great  Salt  Lake  City  party  feeling  rises  higher,  perhaps,  than  in 
any  other  small  place,  because  religious  acrimony  is  superadded 
to  the  many  conflicting  interests.  Every  man's  concerns  are  his 
neighbor's ;  no  one,  apparently,  ever  beard  of  that  person  who 
<' became  immensely  rich" — to  quote  an  Americanism — by  "mind- 
ing his  own  business."  As  often  happens,  religion  is  made,  like 
slavery  in  the  Eastern  States  and  opium  in  China,  the  chcval  de 
bataille;  the  root  of  the  quarrel  must  be  sought  deeper;  in  other 
words,  interest,  and  interest  only,  is  the  Tisiphone  that  shakes  the 
brand  of  v;ar.  As  Mormonism  grows,  its  frame  becomes  more 
strongly  knit.  Thus  the  Gentile  merchants,  who  have  made  from 
120  to  600  per  cent,  on  capital,  were,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  prr 
paring  to  sell  off,  because  they  found  the  combination  against  them 
overpowering.  For  the  most  part  they  vowed  that  there  is  no 
people  with  whom  they  would  rather  do  business  than  witla  tho 
Mormons;  praised  their  honesty  and  punctuality  in  payments, 
and  compared  them  advantageously  in  such  matters  with  thoso 
of  the  older  faith.  Yet  they  bad  resolved  to  remove.  The  total 
number  of  Gentiles  in  the  city  is  probably  not  more  than  800,  a 
small  proport  Ion  to  a  body  of  at  least  9000. 

A  stranger,  especially  an  official,  is  kindly  warned,  on  his  first 
arrival  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  of  its  inveterate  cliquism,  and  is 
amicably  advised  to  steer  a  middle  course,  without  turning  to  tlio 
right  or  to  the  left,  between  tho  Soylla  and  Charybdis  of  Chris- 
tianity and  Mormonism.  This  mezzo-termine  may  be  possible  in 
official  matters ;  in  society  it  is  not.  I  soon  saw  that,  though  a 
traveler  on  the  ^ying  might  sit  alternately  in  the  tents  of  Shem 
and  .Tai)het,  a  resident  would  soon  be  obliged  to  dwell  exclusively 
in  cither  one  or  tlie  other.  When  Gentile  and  Mormon  meet, 
they  either  maintain  a  studied  or  surly  silence,  or  they  enter  into 
a  dialogue  whicli,  on  a  closer  acquamtanco  with  its  formation, 
proves  to  bo  a  conglomerate  of  "  rile"  and  "  knagg"— an  unpleas- 
ant predicament  for  thoso  r/t  ticr.f.  Such,  at  least,  was  my  short 
experience,  and  I  believe  that  of  my  companions. 

Colonel  Stnmbaugb,  a  day  or  two  after  tho  introduction,  offered 
to  act  cicerone  through  tho  settlement,  and  I  was  happy  to  ac  pt 
his  kindness.  One  fine  evening  wo  drove  along  tho  Tooele  lioad 
westward,  and  drank  of  the  waters  of  tho  New  Jordan,  wliich,  to 
the  unrcgonerato  nalate,  tasted,  I  must  say,  somewhat  brackish 
and  ill-flavored.  The  river  is  at  this  season  about  one  hundred 
feet  broad,  and  not  too  deep  below  its  banks  to  bo  useless  for  irri- 


1 

1 

i 

II 

11 

niH 

■' 

* '  -^  ^^H 

-  1''^l 

^^'^1 

\ 

t 

■ 

J 

1 

^1 

Miydiilii.:! 

Jil 

i 

A 

mm 

234 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IV. 


gation,  wliich,  as  the  city  increases,  will  doubtless  be  extended. 
It  is  spanned  by  a  wooden  bridge  so  rickety  that  it  shakes  with 
a  child's  tread — the  governor  has  urgently  but  unavailingly  rep- 
resented the  necessity  of  reconstruction.  But,  although  the  true 
Western,  or  rather  Keltic  recklessness  of  human  life — which  con- 
trasts so  strongly  with  the  sanctity  attached  to  it  by  the  old  Eo- 
man  and  the  modern  Anglo-Scandinavian — here  still  displays  it- 
self, in  some  points  there  is  no  disregard  for  improvement.  Mr. 
Brigham  Young  has  seen  the  evils  of  disforesting  the  land,  and 
the  want  of  plantations ;  he  has  lately  contracted  for  planting, 
near  Jordan  and  elsewhere,  a  million  of  young  trees  at  the  rate 
of  one  cent  each.  On  the  way  we  saw  several  fine  Durhams  and 
Dcvons,  wliich  are  driven  out  every  morning  and  back  every  even- 
ing rmder  the  charge  of  a  bo}^,  who  receives  one  and  a  half  cent 
per  vienscm  a  head.  The  animals  have  be^  brought  across  the 
prairies  at  great  trouble  and  expense :  stock-breeding  is  one  of  the 
Prophet's  usefid  hobbies,  and  tlie  dilfercnce  between  the  cattle  in 
Utan  Territory  and  the  old  Spanish  herds  still  seen  in  the  coun- 
try parts  of  California  is  remarkable.  The  land,  as  will  presently 
appear,  is  better  calculated  for  grazing  than  for  agriculture,  and  a 
settlement  of  500  souls  rarely  has  less  than  500  head  of  cattle. 

Returning  from  Jordan,  we  re-entered  the  city  by  the  western 
road,  and  drove  through  ^Ir.  Brigham  Young's  block  toward  the 
Northern  Kanj'-on.  The  gateway  was  surmounted  by  a  })l:istcr 
group,  consisting  of  a  huge  vulturinc  eagle,  perched,  with  wings 
outspread,  neck  bended  as  if  snulling  the  breeze  oi"  carrion  from 
afar,  and  talons  clinging  upon  a  yellow  bee-hive — a  most  uncom- 
fortable and  unnatural  position  for  the  poor  animal.  The  device 
is  doubtless  highly  sj-mbolical,  emblematical,  typieal — in  fact,  ev- 
ery thing  but  aj))"iropriate  and  commonscnsical.  The  same,  how- 
ever, may  be  said  of  one  of  tlic  most  picturesque  ensigns  in  the 
civilized  wurld — what  have  stars  to  do  with  stripe."  or  stripes  with 
stars?  It  might  be  the  device  of  the  British  or  Austrian  soldier 
—  only  in  their  case,  unlike  the  flag  of  the  United  States,  tlio 
stripes  shoidd  be  mau}'^  and  the  stars  few.  Kn  pa.saaiil  we  re- 
marked a  kind  of  guard-room  at  the  eastern  doorway  of  tlie  White 
House— a  presidential  title  which  the  house  of  prophecy  in  New 
Zion  shares  with  the  house  of  poiilieation*  at  AVashington  :  my 
informants  hinted  that,  in  case  of  an  assault  upon  head-quarters 
by  roughs,  marshals,  or  other  oflicials,  fifty  rilles  eould  at  onei;  be 
brought  to  bear  u]ion  the  spot,  and  1000  after  the  first  hour.  On 
the  eastern  side  of  the  compound  were  the  stables;  a  lamb  in  ef- 
figy surmounted  the  entrance,  and  meekly  reposed  under  the  hu- 
mane injunction,  "Take;  care  ol'your  Hocks.''  Beyond  thin  point 
lay  a  number  of  di'crejtit  emigrant  wagons,  drawn  up  to  foini  a 
fence,  a  young  iilautation  of  fruitless  peaches,  and  the  remnants 
of  tlie  failing  wall. 

•  Til"  Wcsicni  |ir('f*'«  imcn  to  "|i(iliiirnto,"  r.  n.  to  mnkn  a  trntlo  of  inlitics,  mid 

•he  !:U!!i;  l!i!l'  !l!:!it!l':l!!!lLV->- !sV   111;!, '.hi'!!,  tHiUiil'UlU!!!  ? 


CUAP.   IV. 


BKIGIIAM'S  ILAJJYON.— UTAH  LIBRARY. 


235 


We  then  struck  into  "  City,"  usually  known  as  "  Briglaam's" 
Kanyon,  the  Prophet  having  a  saw-mill  upon  the  upper  course. 
It  is  the  normal  deep  narrow  gorge,  with  a  beautiful  little  stream, 
which  is  drawn  off  by  raised  water-courses  at  different  altitudes 
to  supply  the  settlement.  The  banks  are  margined  with  dwarf 
oaks  and  willows ;  limestone,  sandstone,  and  granite,  all  of  fine 
building  quality,  li#  scattered  about  in  profusion,  while  high  above 
rise  the  acclivities  of  the  gash,  thinly  sprinkled  with  sage  and  sun- 
flower. Artemisia  in  this  part  improves  like  the  population  in 
appearance,  nor  is  it  always  a  sign  of  sterility ;  in  parts  wheat 
grows  well  where  the  shrub  has  been  uprooted.  The  road  along 
the  little  torrent  was  excellent;  it  would  have  cost  $100,000  in 
Pennsylvania,  but  here  much  is  done  by  tithe-work ;  moreover, 
the  respect  for  the  Prophet  is  such  that  men  would  rather  work 
for  him  on  credit  than  take  pay  from  others. 

Being  in  want  of  local  literature,  after  vainly  ransacking  the 
few  book-stalls  which  the  city  contains,  I  went  to  the  Public  Li- 
brary, and,  by  sending  in  a  card,  at  once  obtained  admission.  As 
usual  in  the  Territories  of  the  United  States,  this  institution  is 
supported  by  the  federal  government,  which,  besides  $1500  for 
books,  gave  $5000  for  the  establishment,  and  $400  from  the  treas- 
uryof  Utah  is  paid  to  the  Territorial  librarian,  ^[r.  John  Lyon, 
who  is  also  a  poet.  The  management  is  under  the  Secretary  of 
the  Territory,  and  the  public  desire  to  sec  an  extra  grant  of  .$500 
per  annum.*    Tlio  volumes,  about  1000  in  number,  are  placed  in 

♦  An  Art  in  relation  to  Utnh  Library : 

Sec.  1.  He  it  cniictod  by  tiie  (Jovcrnor  nnd  Lopislntivc  Ass-jmbly  of  tlic  Tfrritory 
of  Utiib,  'J'biit  a  librarian  slmll  bo  elected  l)y  a  joint  vote  of  tlie  LcKisliitive  Assuin- 
bly  of  the  Territory  of  Utali,  whose  duty  it  sbiill  be  to  take  eliargo  of  the  library 
(known  in  law  as  tiie  Ihali  Library),  as  hereinafter  i)reHerilied. 

See.  '2.  Said  librarian  shall  hold  his  otlice  dtirinf;  the  term  of  two  years,  or  mnil 
his  successor  is  «))|iointed,  and  shall  t;ive  bonils  for  the  faithful  discharge  of  his  du- 
ties in  the  sum  of  |J<(J(M)0,  and  file  the  same  in  the  odice  of  Secretary  of  ijie  Territory 
before  enterinj;  upon  his  duties,  who  nniy  also  njiiioint  a  de]mty,  ns  occasion  re(iuires, 
to  net  in  his  stead,  under  the  same  restrictions  as  the  jiriiuipal  libnu-ian. 

See.  ;i.  It  shall  bo  the  duty  of  the  librarian  to  cause  to  be  |iriutcil,  at  ns  early  a 
tittte  as  practicable,  a  full  and  accurate  catalo>;\ie  of  all  books,  inaiis,  Klobes,  charts, 
papers,  apparatus,  nnd  valuable  specimens  in  any  way  belonninn  to  said  library  :  also 
to  use  diligent  etl'orts  to  jireservo  from  waste,  loss,  or  damage,  any  jiortion  of  said 
library. 

See'.  4.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  tlio  librarian,  for  nnd  in  belinlf  of  the  Territory  of 
Utah,  to  jiiant  su"ts,  collect  lines,  ])rosccute,  or  dcfciul  the  interests  of  said  library,  or 
otherwise  act  nn  a  legal  i)lniuiitV  or  defendant  in  l>ehutf  of  the  Territory,  where  the 
intop'sfs  of  the  library  arc  concerned. 

Si'o.  5.  The  loiaiion  of  the  libiarv  shall  bo  nt  tho  80nt  of  government  of  the  Ter- 
ritory of  I  tail ,  and  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  lilirarinn  to  have  all  the  IwHiks  of  tlio 
librnr)  orderly  and  projicrly  nrrangi'd  within  the  library -room,  for  the  use  of  such 
ofiicers  and  persons  as  are  mime<l  in  the  fourteeinb  sedion  of  the  Organic  Act  for 
Utah  Territory,  during  each  session  of  the  Legislative  As>endily  of  I'tnh  ;  provided, 
however,  lliat  noildng  herein  contained  shall  debar  the  librarian,  in  vacaticai  of  the 
Legisliiiivp  Assendily,  from  )iermiltinj;  books,  mnjis,  and  papers  being  orawn  from 
said  library,  for  prolVs-iional  and  scieniilic  purposes,  by  olliccrs  of  tli<>  ITuited  Stat(>>< 
nnd  of  I'tab  Tcr.iior\,  and  other  ciii^ens  of  Utah,  wliero  tho  libraviuu  shall  judge 
the  public  good  nniy  justify. 


1        1 
» 


■i  '      i 


It     • 


^^l^iflMiiiib 


liu 


236  THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS.  Chap.  IV. 

a  large  room  on  tlie  nortli  side  of  the  "Mountaineer"  office,  and 
the  librarian  attends  every  Thursday,  when  books  are  "  loaned" 
to  numerous  applicants.  The  works  are  principally  those  of  ref- 
erence, elementary,  and  intended  for  the  general  reader,  such  as 
travels,  popular  histories,  and  novels.  The  "  Woman  in  White" 
had  already  found  her  way  across  the  prairies,  and  she  received 
the  honors  and  admiration  which  she  deservedf 

On  the  evening  of  the  30th  of  August,  after  dining  with  the 
governor,  I  accompanied  him  to  the  Thermal  Springs,  one  of  the 
lions  of  the  place.  Wo  struck  into  the  north  road,  and  soon  is- 
sued from  the  town.  On  the  riglit  hand  we  passed  a  large  tum- 
ble-down tenement  which  has  seen  many  vicissitudes.  It  began 
life  as  a  bath-house  and  bathing-place,  to  which  the  white  sul- 
phury waters  of  the  Warm  Springs,*  issuing  from  below  Ensign 
Peak,  were  brought  in  pine-log  pipes.  It  contained  also  a  ball- 
room, two  parlors  for  clubs  and  supper-parties,  and  a  double  kitch- 
en. It  afterward  became  a  hotel  and  public  house  for  emigrants 
to  California  and  Oregon.  These,  however,  soon  learned  to  prefer 
more  central  quarters,  and  now  it  has  subsided  into  a  tannery  of 
low  degree.  About  two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  the  northern 
suburb  are  the  Ilot  Springs,f  which  issue  from  the  western  slope 

Sec.  0.  It  shall  Ik)  tlio  duty  of  the  libr  lian  to  let  out  books  for  n  specified  time, 
and  cull  ill  the  same  when  due,  in>^'rt  lines  for  damage  or  loss  of  hooks,  and  collect 
the  same,  and  keep  an  neeurato  aecoimt  v(  all  his  official  doinps  in  a  Imok  ke|)t  for 
that  purpose,  and  make  an  annual  report  of  tlio  same  to  the  Lct?islurive  Assembly  of 
Utah ;  provided  that  no  line  shall  bo  excessive,  or  more  than  four  times  the  [lurchaso 
price  of  the  book  or  books  for  the  h)ss  or  damage  of  whic  I.  the  fine  may  be  iiiliictcd. 

See,  7.  The  librarian  is  hereby  entitled  to  draw  from  the  treasury  of  Utah  for  the 
current  year  as  compensation  for  his  .ser^'ices  the  sum  of  fi-KK),  not  otherwise  appro- 
l>riatcd ;  also  the  sum  of  ifJOO  to  defray  the  expenses  of  stationery,  printing  cata- 
logue, and  other  contingencies. 
Aiiprovi'J  .Mnnli  0, 1S,VJ. 

•  The  following  i.s  the  analysis  of  the  warm  spring  by  Dr.  L.  J).  Gale,  printed  by 
Captain  Stan.sbury  in  Appendix  T.  It  dates  tVom  18r>1,  but  apparently  more  detailed 
trials  Inivi!  not  yet  iH'en  made.  One  hundred  i)arts  of  the  water  (whoso  specific 
gravity  was  I'Ol  12)  give  the  following  results: 

Sulphureted  hydrogen  absorbed  in  the  water 0 "0374 .1 4 

"  _   "  combined  with  Itases 0'0()<)728 

Carbonate  of  lime  jireeipitated  by  boiling 0'07J>000 

"  "    magnesia 0-()22770 

Chloride  of  ealeinm 00(iri700 

Sulphate  of  soda 0-0G483ri 

Chloride  of  sodium (VWIOOO 

The  usual  temperature  is  laid  down  nt  102"  F. 

+  The  water  of  the  Ilot  Sjirings  was  found  to  have  the  specific  gravity  of  1'0130, 
and  100  parts  vielded  solid  contents  ri4."i4. 

Chiorido  of  sodium 0-8().';2 

"  magnesia 00288 

"  eideinm 0-109B 

Sulphate  of  lime 0'080C 

<'arl«mate  of  lime O-OlHO 

Silica 0-0180 

The  usual  tcmpcrnture  is  laid  down  at  128^  F.  ^'"''"^ 


I 


Chap.  V.        HAEROWGATE  WATERS.— BKIGHAM  YOUNG. 


237. 


of  the  hills  lying  behind  Ensign  Peak.  A  generous  .uipplv  of 
water,  gushing  from  the  rock  into  v  basin  below,  drains  off  and 
forms  a  lakelet,  varying  according  to  season  from  one  to  three 
miles  m  circumference.  Where  the  water  first  issues  it  will  boil 
an  egg ;  a  little  below  it  raises  the  mercury  to  128°  F.  Even  at 
a  distance  from  the  source  it  preserves  some  heat,  and,  accord- 
ingly, It  IS  frequented  throughout  the  winter  by  flights  of  water- 
fowl and  ctmping  Indians,  whose  children  sit  m  it  to  thaw  their 
half-frozen  limbs.  These  springs,  together  with  the  fresh-water 
lake  and  the  Jordan,  are  held  to  be  more  purifying  than  Abana 
and  Pharphar,  rivers  of  Damascus;  and,  being  of  the  Harrowgate 
species,  they  will  doubtless  be  useful  to  the  Valley  people  as  soon 
as  increased  luxury  requires  such  appliances.  When  the  wind 
sets  in  from  the  north,  the  decided  perfume  of  sulphureted  hydro- 
gen and  saleratus  is  any  thing  but  eau  de  Cologne.  An  anti- 
Mormon  writer,  describing  these  springs  and  other  evidences  of 
igii^ous  a»^  volcanic  action,  dwells  with  complacency  upon  the 
probability  that  at  some  no  distant  time  New  Zion  may  find  her- 
self in  a  quandary,  and— like  the  Cities  of  the  Plain,  to  which  she 
is  thus  insinuatingly  compared— fuel  for  the  flames.  On  our  way 
home  the  governor  pointed  out  the  remains  of  building  and  other 
works  uiion  a  model  farm,  which  had  scarcely  fared  better  than 
that  of  Niger  celebrity.  The  land  around  is  hoar  with  salt,  and 
bears  nothing  but  salsolro  and  similar  hopeless  vegetation. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Second  "Week  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.— Visit  to  the  rrophot. 

Shortly  after  arriving,  I  had  mentioned  to  Governor  Cum- 
min^  my  desire  to  call  upon  Mr.,  or  rather,  as  his  ofiicial  title  is, 
President  Brigham  Young,  and  ho  honored  me  by  inquiring  what 
time  would  be  most  convenient  to  him.  The  following  was  the 
answer :  the  body  was  in  the  handwriting  of  an  amanuensis— sim- 
ilarly Mr.  Joseph  Smith  was  in  the  liabit  of  dictation— and  the 
signature,  which  would  form  a  fair  subject  for  a  Warrcnologist, 
was  the  I'rophet's  autograph. 

"  GOVEUNOU  A.  CCMMTXO. 
uci  r  1  " ^'"'"'  ^'*''  ^"'^°  ^''^''  ■'^"K-  •''">  18C0. 

hiu,— In  reply  to  your  note  of  the  29th  inst.,  I  enibraco  the  ear- 
liest opportunity  since  my  return  to  inform  you  that  it  will  be  ngrcc- 
ablo  to  mo  to  meet  the  gcutlomau  you  lueiitiou  in  my  oftico  at  11 
A.M.  to-morrow,  tlio  31st.  Bhigham  Youno." 

The  "  President  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day 
Saints  all  over  tlio  World"  is  obliged  to  use  caution  in  admitting 


>. 


)    it 

ni 


nt¥ 


4:fi 


"r  II 


IlEIJT 


238 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


Strangers,  not  only  for  personal  safety,  but  also  to  defend  his  dig- 
nity  from  the  rude  and  unfeeling  remarks  of  visitors,  who  seem 
to  think  themselves  entitled,  in  the  case  of  a  Mormon,  to  trans- 
gress every  rule  of  civility.  _  nn-u    ^         1 

About  noon,  after  a  preliminary  visit  to  Mr.  ijilbert— and  a 
fvisit  in  these  lands  always  entails  a  certain  amount  of  "smiling" 
—I  met  Governor  Gumming  in  Main  Street,  and  we  proceeded 
tocrether  to  our  visit.  After  a  shgbt  scrutiny  we  passed  the  guard 
—which  is  dressed  in  plain  clothes,  and  to  the  eye  unarmed— and 
walking  down  the  veranda,  entered  the  Prophets  private  office. 
Severaf  people  who  were  sitting  there  rose  at  Mr.  Gumming  s  en- 
trance  At  a  few  words  of  introduction,  :Mr.  Brigham  Young  ad- 
vanced, shook  hands  with  complete  simplicity  of  manner,  asked 
me  to  be  seated  on  a  sofa  at  one  side  of  tlic  room,  and  presented 
mo  to  those  present,  . 

Under  ordinary  circumstances  it  would  be  unfair  in  a  visitor 
to  draw  the  portrait  of  one  visited.  But  this  is  no  common  case. 
I  have  violated  no  rites  of  hu^pitality.  Mr.  Brigham  Young  is  a 
"seer,  revelator,  and  prophet,  having  all  the  gifts  of  God  which 
he  bestows  upon  the  Head  of  the  Ghurch :"  his  memoirs,  litho- 
graphs, photographs,  and  portrait.;  b.ave  been  published  again  and 
again ;  I  add  but  one  more  likeness;  and,  finally,  I  have  nothing 
to  say  except  in  his  favor. 

The  Prophet  was  born  at  Whittingham,  Vermont,  on  tlie  1st 
of  June,  1801 ;  he  was  consequently,  in  1800,  fifty-nine  years  of 
an-e;  he  looks  about  forty -live.  La  cflcbrite  vieillll  —  l  had  ex- 
pected to  see  a  venerable-looking  old  man.  Scarcely  a  gray 
thread  armears  in  his  hair,  which  is  parted  on  the  side,  light  col- 
ored, ratlicr  thick,  and  reaches'  below  the  ears  with  a  half  curl. 
He  fbrmerly  were  it  long,  after  the  Western  style;  now  it  is  cut 
level  with  the  ear-lobes.  The  forehead  is  somewhat  narrow,  the 
eyebrows  are  thin,  the  eyes  between  gray  and  blue,  with  a  calin, 
composed,  and  somewhat  reserved  expression :  a  slight  droop  in 
the  left  lid  made  me  think  that  he  had  suflered  from  paralysis; 
I  afterward  heard  that  the  ptosis  is  the  result  of  a  neuralgia  which 
has  long  tormented  him.  For  this  reason  he  usually  covers  his 
lie.'vd,  e.\ce])t  in  his  own  house  ov  in  the  Tabernacle.  Mrs.  AVard, 
who 'is  foHowed  by  the  "Revue  des  I)cux-:Mondes,"  therefore 
errs  again  in  asserting  that  "his  ]\rormon  majesty  never  reniorcs 
his  luit  in  ))ublie."  The  nose,  whieh  is  fine  and  somewhat  sliarp- 
])oiiitod,  is  bent  a  little  to  the  left.  The  lips  arc  eloso  like  the 
New  Englander's,  und  the  teeth,  especially  those  of  tlie  under 
jaw,  are  Imperfect.  The  cheeks  are  rather  fleshy,  and  the  line 
between  the  ahe  of  the  nose  and  the  mouth  is  broken;  the  ehhi 
is  somewhat  iicaked,  and  the  face  ch^an  shaven,  except  under  th.^ 
jaws,  whciv,  the  beard  is  allowed  to  grow.  Tlie  hands  are  well 
inade,  and  not  disfigured  by  rings.  The  figure  is  somewhat  large, 
broad-shouldered,  and  stooping  a  little  when  standing. 


Chap.  V. 


"BEIGHAM." 


289 


The  Propbet's  dress  was  neat  and  plain  as  a  Quaker's,  all  gray 
homespun  except  the  cravat  and  waistcoat.  His  coat  was  of  an- 
tique cut,  and,  like  the  pantaloons,  baggy,  and  the  buttons  were 
black.  A  neck-tie  of  dark  silk,  with  a  large  bow,  was  loosely 
passed  round  a  starchless  collar,  which  turned  down  of  its  own 
accord.  The  waistcoat  was  of  black  satin — once  an  article  of  al- 
most national  dress — single-breasted,  and  buttoned  nearly  to  the 
neck,  and  a  plain  gold  chain  was  passed  into  the  pocket.  The 
boots  were  Wellingtons,  apparently  of  American  make. 

Altogether  the  Prophet's  appearance  was  that  of  a  gentleman 
farmer  in  New  England — in  fact,  such  as  he  is:  his  father  was 
an  agriculturist  and  revolutionary  soldier,  who  settled  "down 
East."  He  is  a  well-preserved  man ;  a  fact  which  some  attribute 
to  his  habit  of  sleeping,  as  the  Citizen  Proudhon  so  strongly  ad- 
vises, in  solitude.  His  mo,nner  is  at  once  affable  and  impressive, 
simple  and  courteous :  his  want  of  pretension  contrasts  favorably 
with  certain  pseudo-prophets  that  I  have  seen,  each  and  every 
of  whom  holds  himself  to  be  a  "Logos"  without  other  claim  save 
a  semi-maniacal  self-esteem.  He  shows  no  signs  of  dogmatism, 
bigotry,  or  fanaticism,  and  never  once  entered — with  me  at  least 
— upon  the  subject  of  religion.  He  impresses  a  stranger  with  a 
certain  sense  of  power ;  his  followers  are,  of  course,  wholly  fosci- 
nated  by  his  superior  strength  of  brain.  It  is  commonly  said 
there  is  only  one  chief  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  that  is  "  Brig- 
ham."  His  temper  is  even  and  placid;  his  manner  is  cold— in 
fact,  like  his  face,  somewhat  bloodless ;  but  he  is  neither  morose 
nor  methodistic,  and,  where  occasion  requires,  he  can  use  all  the 
weapons  of  ridicule  to  direful  oftcet,  and  "  speak  a  bit  of  his  mind" 
in  a  style  which  no  one  forgets.  He  often  reproves  his  erring 
followers  in  purposely  violent  language,  making  the  terrors  of  a 
scolding  the  punishment  in  lieu  of  hanging  for  a  stolen  horse  or 
cow.  His  powers  of  observation  are  intuitively  strong,  and  his 
friends  declare  him  to  be  gifted  with  an  excellent  memory  and  a 
perfect  judgment  of  character.  If  he  dislikes  a  stranger  at  the 
tirst  interview,  he  never  sees  him  again.  Of  his  temperance  and 
sobriety  tliere  is  but  one  opinion.  His  life  is  ascetic :  his  favorite 
food  is  baked  potatoes  witli  a  little  buttermilk,  and  his  drink  wa- 
ter: he  disapproves,  as  do  all  strict  Mormons,  of  spirituous  liq- 
uors, and  never  touches  any  thing  stronger  than  a  glass  of  thin 
Lager-bier;  moreover,  he  abstains  from  tobacco.  ^Ir.  Hyde  has 
accused  him  of  habitual  intemperance:  ho  is,  as  his  appearance 
shows,  rather  disposed  to  abstinence  than  to  the  reverse.  Of  his 
education  I  can  not  speak :  "  men,  nc^t  books — deeds,  not  words," 
has  ever  been  his  motto;  he  probably  has,  as  ^Ir.  Randolph  said 
of  Nfr.  •lohnst.on,  "a  mind  uncorrupttMl  by  books."  Li  the  only 
discourse  which  I  heard  him  d'cliver,  he  pronounced  impetus,  im- 
petus. Yet  ho  converses  with  ease  and  correctness,  lias  neither 
snufllo  nor  pompousness,  and  speaks  as  an  authority  upon  certain 


•jy 


240 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  V. 


subjects,  such  as  agriculture  and  stock-breeding.  He  assumes  no 
airs  of  extra  sanctimoniousness,  and  has  the  plain,  simple  man- 
ners of  honesty.  His  followers  deem  him  an  angel  of  light,  his 
foes  a  goblin  damned :  he  is,  I  presume,  neither  one  nor  the  other. 
I  can  not  pronounce  about  bis  scrupulousness :  all  the  world  over, 
the  sincerest  religious  belief  and  the  practice  of  devotion  are  some- 
times compatible  not  only  with  the  most  disorderly  life,  but  with 
the  most  terrible  crimes ;  for  mankind  mostly  believes  that 

"II  est  avec  le  ciel  des  acconimodcmcnts." 

He  has  been  called  hypocrite,  swindler,  forger,  murderer,  l^o 
one  looks  it  less.  The  best  authorities — from  those  who  accuse 
Mr,  Joseph  Smith  of  the  most  heartless  deception,  to  those  who 
believe  that  he  began  as  an  impostor  and  ended  as  a  prophet — 
find  in  Mr.  Brigham  Young  "an  earnest,  obstinate  egotistic  en- 
thusiasm, fiinned  by  persecution  and  inflamed  by  bloodshed." 
lie  is  the  St.  Paul  of  the  New  Dispensation  :  true  and  sincere,  he 
gave  point,  and  energy,  and  consistency  to  the  somewhat  disjoint- 
ed, turbulent,,  and  unforeseeing  fanaticism  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith ; 
and  if  he  has  not  been  able  to  create,  he  has  shown  himself  great 
in  controlling  circumstances.  Finally,  there  is  a  total  absence  of 
pretension  in  his  manner,  and  he  has  been  so  long  used  to  power 
that  he  cares  nothing  for  its  display.  The  arts  by  which  he  rules 
the  heterogeneous  mass  of  conflicting  elements  are  indomitable 
will,  profound  secrecy,  and  uncommon  astuteness. 

Such  is  Ilis  Excellency  President  Brigham  Young,  "painter 
and  glazier'^ — his  earliest  craft  —  prophet,  revelator,  translator, 
and  seer ;  the  man  who  is  revered  as  king  or  kaiser,  pope  or  pon- 
tiff never  was;  who,  like  the  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,  by  hold- 
ing up  his  hand  could  cause  the  death  of  any  one  within  his 
reach ;  who,  governing  as  well  as  reigning,  long  stood  up  to  fight 
with  the  sword  of  the  Lord,  and  with  his  few  hundred  gucrrilhis, 
against  the  then  mighty  power  of  the  United  Spates;  who  has 
outwitted  all  diplomacy  opposed  to  him ;  and,  finally,  who  made 
a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  President  of  the  Great  llepublic  as 
though  he  had  wielded  the  combined  power  of  France,  liussia, 
and  England. 

Remembering  the  frequent  qucrj^  ""What  sball  be  done  witli 
the  Mormons?"  I  often  asked  the  Saints,  Who  will  or  can  suc- 
ceed Mr.  Brigham  Young?  No  one  knows,  and  no  one  cares. 
They  reply,  with  a  singular  disdain  for  the  usual  course  of  his- 
tory, with  a  perfect  faith  tliat  their  Cromwell  will  know  no  Bicli- 
ard  as  his  successor,  that,  as  when  the  crisis  came  the  Lord  raised 
up  in  him,  then  unknown  and  little  valued,  a  fitting  successor  to 
Mr.  Jose))]!  Smith — of  whom,  by-the-by,  they  now  speak  with  a 
respectful  reverential  sotto  mcr,  as  Cliristians  name  the  Founder 
of  their  faith — so,  when  the  time  for  deciding  the  succession  sliall 
arrive,  the  chosen  Saints  will  not  be  left  without  a  suitable  theo- 


Chap.  V. 


'SQUIRE  WELLS.--HEBEE  C.  KIMBALL. 


241 


orat  to  exalt  the  people  Israel.  The  Prophet  professes,  I  believe 
to  hold  office  m  a  kind  of  spiritual  allegiance  to  the  Smith  fam- 
ily, of  which  the  eldest  son,  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  the  third  of  that 
dynasty,  ha,s  of  late  years,  though  blessed  by  his  father,  created  a 
schism  m  the  religion.  By  the  persuasions  of  his  mother,  who 
after  the  first  Prophet's  death,  gave  him  a  Gentile  stepfather  he 
has  abjured  polygamy  and  settled  in  the  Mansion  House  at  Nau- 
voo.  The  Mormons,  though  ready  to  receive  back  the  family  at 
(xreat  Salt  Lake  City  when  manifested  by  the  Lord,  hardly  look 
to  hira  as  their  future  chief  They  all,  however,  and  none  more 
than  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  show  the  best  of  feeling  toward  the 
descendants  of  their  founder,  and  expect  much  from  David  Smith 
the  second  and  posthumous  son  of  him  martyred  at  Carthage' 
He  was  called  David,  and  choicely  blessed  before  his  birth  by  his 
father,  who  prophesied  that  the  Lord  will  see  to  his  children 
Moreover,  all  speak  in  the  highest  terms  of  Mr.  Joseph  A.  Younff' 
the  dweller  at  the  White  House,  the  eldest  son  of  the  ex-gov- 
ernor, who  traveled  in  Europe  and  England,  and  distinguiJhed 
himself  m  opposition  to  the  federal  troops. 

After  finishing  with  the  "Lion  of  the  Lord,"  I  proceeded  to 
observe  his  companions.    By  my  side  was  seated  Daniel  H.,  whose 
title  IS    General,"  Wells,  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Works 
and  the  commander  of  the  Nauvoo  Legion.    He  is  the  third  Pres- 
ident of  the  Mormon  triumvirate,  and  having  been  a  justice  of  the 
peace  and  an  alderman  in  Illinois,  when  the  Mormons  dwelt  there 
m  1839  he  is  usually  known  as  Squire  Wells :  he  became  a  Saint 
when  the  Mormons  were  driven  from  Nauvoo  in  1846,  and  took 
their  part  in  battles  against  the  mob.    In  appearance  he  is  a  tall 
large,  bony,  rufous  man,  and  his  conduct  of  the  affair  in  1857-'8 
^  spoken  of  with  admiration  by  Mormons.    The  second  of  the 
Presidency,  Mr.  Heber  C.  Kimball,  was  not  present  at  that  time, 
but  on  another  occasion  he  was :  Mr.  Brigham  Young  introduced 
me  to  him  remarking,  with  a  quiet  and  peculiar  smile,  that  during 
his  friends  last  visit  to  England,  at  a  meeting  of  the  Methodists, 
one  of  the  reverends  attempted  to  pull  his  chair  from  under  him- 
at  which  reminiscence  the  person  alluded  to  looked  uncommonly 
grim.    Mr.  Kimball  was  born  in  the  same  year  as  Mr.  Brigham 
Young  and  was  first  baptized  in  1832 :  he  is  a  devoted  follower 
ot  the  Prophet,  a  very  Jonathan  to  this  David,  a  llmar  to  the  New 
Islani.    He  is  a  large  and  powerful  man,  not  unlike  a  blacksmith, 
which  1  believe  he  was,  and  is  now  the  owner  of  a  fine  block  with 
houses  and  barns,  garden  and  orchard,  north  of  and  adjoining  that 
1  ^J'  ^^"8^^^"^  Young.     The  third  person  present  was  the  apos- 
tle Mr.  George  A.  Smith,  the  historian  and  recorder  of  the  Terri- 
tory and  a  cousin  of  the  first  Prophet:  he  is  a  walking  almanac 
ot  Mormon  events,  and  is  still  full  of  fight,  strongly  in  favor  of 
rubbing  out  the  "wretched  Irishmen  and  Dutchmen  sent  from  the 
bjust  to  try  whether  the  Mormons  would  receive  federal  officers." 


^j. 


-T-nrrr 


242 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


Mr.  Willford  Woodruff,  like  Mr.  Smith,  one  of  the  onginal  apos- 
tles, has  visited  England  as  a  missionary,  appeared  before  the  pub- 
lic as  polemic  and  controversialist,  and  has  now  settled  down  as 
an  apostle  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  Mr.  Albert  O.  Carrington,  a 
graduate  of  Dartmouth  College,  had  acted  as  Hcoond  assistant  on 
the  topographical  survey  to  Captain  StausLarv.  who  speaks  of  him 
as  follows:  "Being  a  gentleman  of  liberal  education,  he  soon  ac- 
quired, under  instruction,  the  requisite  skill,  and  by  his  zeal,  in- 
dustry and  practical  good  sense  materially  aided  us  m  our  subse- 
quent operations.  He  continued  with  the  party  till  the  termina- 
tion of  the  survey,  accompanied  it  to  the  city  (Washington),  and 
has  since  returned  to  his  mountain  home,  carrying  with  hi  rr  the 
respect  and  good  wishes  of  all  with  whom  he  was  associated.''  Uf 
Mr.  F.  Little,  who  completed  the  septem  contra  Christianitakm  then 
present,  I  shall  have  more  to  say  in  a  future  chapter. 

The  Prophet  received  us  in  his  private  office,  where  he  trans- 
acts the  greater  part  of  his  business,  corrects  his  sermons,  and  con- 
ducts his  correspondence.  It  is  a  plain,  neat  room,  with  the  usual 
conveniences,  a  large  writing-desk  and  money-safe,  table,  sofas, 
and  chairs,  all  made  by  the  able  mechanics  of  the  settlement.  I 
remarked  a  pistol  and  a  rifle  hung  within  ready  reach  on  the 
right-hand  wall;  one  of  these  is,  I  was  told,  a  newly-mvented 
twelve-shooter.  There  was  a  look  of  order,  which  suited  the 
character  of  the  man :  it  is  said  that  a  door  badly  hinged,  or  a 
curtain  hung  awry,  "  puts  his  eye  out."  His  style  of  doing  busi- 
ness at  the  desk  or  in  the  field— for  the  Prophet  does  not  disdam 
handiwork— is  to  issue  distinct,  copious,  and  intelligible  directions 
to  his  employes,  after  which  he  dislikes  referring  to  the  subject. 
It  is  typical  of  his  mode  of  acting,  slow,  deliberate,  and  conclusive. 
He  has  the  reputation  of  being  wealthy.  He  rose  to  power  a  poor 
man.  The  Gentiles  naturally  declare  that  he  enriched  himself  by 
the  tithes  and  plunder  of  his  followers,  and  especially  by  preying 
upon  and  robbing  the  Gentiles.  I  believe,  however,  that  no  one 
pays  Church-dues  and  alms  with  more  punctuality  than  the  Proph- 
et, and  that  he  has  for  too  many  opportunities  of  coining  money, 
safely  and  honestly,  to  be  guilty,  like  some  desperate  destitute,  of 
the  short-sighted  folly  of  fraud.  In  1859  he  owned,  it  is  said,  to 
being  possessed  of  $250,000,  equal  to  £50,000,  which  makes  a 
millionaire  in  these  mountains— it  is  too  large  a  sum  to  jeopard- 
ize. His  fortunes  were  principally  made  in  business:  like  the 
late  Imaum  of  Muscat,  he  is  the  chief  merchant  as  well  as  the 
high  priest.  He  sends  long  trains  of  wagons  freighted  v/ith  vari- 
ous goods  to  the  Eastern  States,  and  supplies  caravans  and  settle- 
ments with  grain  and  provisions.  From  the  lumber  which  he 
sold  to  the  federal  troops  for  hutting  themselves  at  Camp  Floyd, 
he  is  supposed  to  have  netted  not  less  than  $200,000.  This  is 
one  of  the  sorest  points  with  the  army :  all  declare  that  the  Mor- 
mons would  have  been  in  rags  or  sackcloth  if  soldiers  had  not 


Chap.  V. 


"  LEMUFX."— SLAVERY. 


243 


been  sent;  and  they  naturally  grudge  discomfort,  hardship  and 
expatriation,  whose  only  effect  has  been  to  benefit  their  enemies 
After  the  few  first  words  of  greeting,  I  interpreted  the  Prophet's 
look  to  mean  that  he  would  not  dislike  to  know  my  object  in  the 
City  of  the  Saints.  I  told  him  that,  having  read  and  heard  much 
about  Utah  as  it  is  said  to  be,  I  was  anxious  to  see  Utah  as  it  is 
He  then  entered  briefly  upon  the  subjects  of  stock  and  agricul- 
ture, and  described  the  several  varieties  of  soil.  One  delicate  top- 
ic was  touched  upon :  he  alluded  to  the  "  Indian  wars,"  as  they 
are  here  called :  he  declared  that  when  twenty  are  reported  kill- 
ed and  wounded,  that  two  or  three  would  be  nearer  the  truth,  and 
that  he  could  do  more  with  a  few  pounds  of  flour  and  yards  of 
cloth  than  all  the  sabres  of  the  camp  could  effect.  The  sentiment 
was  cordially  seconded  by  all  present.  The  Israelitic  origin  of 
"Lemuel,  and  perhaps  the  prophecy  that  "  many  generations 
shall  not  pass  away  among  them  save  they  shall  be  a  white  and 
delightsome  people,"*  though  untenable  as  an  ethnologic  theory 
has  in  practice  worked  at  least  this  much  of  good,  that  the  Mor- 
mons treat  their  step-brethren  with  far  more  humanity  than  other 
Western  men :  they  feed,  clothe,  and  lodge  them,  and  attach  them 
by  good  works  to  their  interests.  Slavery  has  been  legalized  in 
Utah,  but  solely  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  the  Saints  to  buy 
children,  who  otherwise  would  be  abandoned  or  destroyed  by  their 
starving  parents.f     During  my  stay  in  the  city  I  did  not  see  more 

*  Second  Book  of  Nephi,  chap,  xii.,  par.  12.     Lemuel  was  the  hrother  of  Nephi ; 
and  the  word  is  used  by  autonomasia  for  the  Lamanites  or  Indians. 
.       t  The  wording  of  the  following  act  shows  the  spirit  in  which  slavery  was  pro- 

A  PREAMBLE    AND    AN    ACT    FOB    THE    FARTHER    RELIEF    OP    INDIAN    SLAVES    AND 

PRISONERS. 

"Whereas,  by  reason  of  the  acquisition  of  Upper  California  and  New  Mexico 
and  the  subsequent  organization  of  the  Territorial  Governments  of  New  Mexico  and 
Utah  by  the  acts  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  these  territories  have  organ- 
ized governments  within  and  upon  what  would  otiierwise  be  considered  Indian  terri- 
tory, and  which  really  is  Indian  territory  so  far  as  the  right  of  soil  is  involved  there- 
by presenting  the  novel  feature  of  a  white  legalized  government  on  Indian  lands- 
and  ' 

"Whereas  the  laws  of  the  United  States  in  relation  to  intercourse  with  Indians 
are  designed  for,  and  only  applicable  to,  territories  and  countries  under  the  solo  and 
exclusive  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States ;  and 

"Whereas,  from  time  immemorial,  the  practice  of  purchasing  Indian  women  and 
children  of  the  Utah  tribe  of  Indians  by  Mexican  traders  has  been  indulged  in  and 
carried  on  by  those  respective  people  until  the  Indians  consider  it  an  allowable  traf- 
hc,  and  frequently  offer  their  prisoners  or  children  for  sale  ;  and 

"  Whereas  it  is  a  common  practice  among  tli-  e  Indians  to  gamble  away  their  own 
children  and  women ;  and  it  is  a  wcll-cstablislied  fact  that  women  and  children  thus 
obtained,  or  obtained  by  war,  or  thefr,  or  in  any  other  manner,  are  by  them  frequent- 
ly carried  from  place  to  place,  packed  upon  horses  or  mules,  larietcd  out  to  subsist 
upon  grass,  roots,  or  starve,  and  are  frcquontlv  bound  with  thongs  made  of  raw-hide 
until  their  hands  and  feet  become  swollen,  mutilated,  inflamed  with  pain,  and  wound- 
ed ;  and  when  with  suffering,  cold,  hunger,  and  abuse  they  fall  sick,  so  as  to  become 
troublesome,  are  frequently  slain  by  their  masters  to  get  rid  of  them ;  and 

"Whereas  they  do  frequently  kill  their  women  and  children  taken  prisoners,  ei- 
ther m  revenge,  or  for  amusement,  or  through  the  influence  of  tradition,  unless  they 


-:  It-: 


244 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  v. 


than  half  a  dozen  negroes;  and  climate,  which,  disdaining  man's 
interference,  draws  with  unerring  hand  the  true  and  only  com- 
promise line  between  white  and  black  labor,  has  irrevocably  de- 
cided that  the  African  in  these  latitudes  is  valueless  as  a  chattel, 
are  tempted  to  exchange  them  for  trade,  which  they  usually  do  if  they  have  an  op- 

^'' Whereas"one  family  frequently  steals  the  chUdren  and  women  of  another  family, 
and  such  robberies  and  murders  are  continually  committed  in  times  of  their  great- 
est peace  and  amity,  thus  dragging  free  Indian  women  and  children  into  Mexican 
servitude  and  slavery,  or  death,  to  the  almost  entire  extirpation  of  the  whole  Indian 

race:  and  ,   .       ,  .,  ,11.1.  •    ., 

"Whereas  these  inhuman  practices  are  being  daily  enacted  before  our  eyes  m  tae 
midst  of  the  white  settlements,  and  within  the  organized  counties  of  the  Territory; 
and  when  the  inhabitants  do  not  purchase  or  trade  for  those  so  offered  for  sale,  they 
are  eenerally  doomed  to  the  most  miserable  existence,  suffering  the  tortures  of  every 
species  of  cruelty,  until  death  kindly  relieves  them  and  closes  the  revolting  scenery. 

''  Wherefore,  when  all  these  facts  are  taken  into  consideration,  it  becomes  the  duty 
of  all  humane  and  Christian  people  to  extend  unto  this  degraded  and  downtrodden 
race  such  relief  as  can  be  awarded  to  them,  according  to  their  situation  and  circum- 
stances ;  it  therefore  becomes  necessary  to  consider, 

"  First,  the  circumstances  of  our  location  among  these  savage  tribes  under  the  au- 
thority of  Congress,  while  yet  the  Indian  title  to  the  soil  is  left  unextinguished  ;  not 
even  a  treaty  having  been  held,  by  which  a  partition  of  territory  or  country  has  been 
made,  thereby  bringing  them  into  our  door-yards,  our  houses,  and  in  contact  with 
our  every  avocation.  •    •  , 

"Second,  their  situation,  and  our  duty  toward  them,  upon  the  common  principles 

"Third  the  remedy,  or  what  will  be  the  most  conducive  to  ameliorate  their  con- 
dition, preserve  their  lives  and  their  liberties,  and  redeem  them  from  a  worse  than 
African  bondage ;  it  suggests  itself  to  your  committee  that  to  memoriahze  Congress 
to  provide  by  some  act  of  national  legislation  for  the  new  and  unparalleled  situation 
of  the  inhabitants  of  this  Towitory,  in  relation  to  their  intercouree  with  these  Indians, 
would  be  one  resource,  prolific  in  its  results  for  our  mutual  benefit ;  and,  farther,  that 
we  ask  their  concurrence  in  the  following  enactment,  passed  by  the  Legislature  of  the 
Territory  of  Utah,  January  31,  A.D.  1852,  entitled, 

"  'An  Act  for  the  Relief  0/ Indian  Slaves  and  Prisoners. 

" '  Sec.  1.  Be  it  enacted  by  the  Governor  and  Legislative  Assembly  of  the  Territory 
of  Utah  That  whenever  any  white  person  within  any  organized  county  of  this  Terri- 
tory shall  have  nnv  Indian  prisoner,  child,  or  woman,  in  his  possession,  whether  by 
purchase  or  other\vise,  such  person  shall  immediately  go,  together  with  such  In- 
dian prisoner,  child,  or  woman,  before  the  selectmen  or  probate  judge  of  the  county. 
If  in  the  opinion  of  the  selectmen  or  probate  judge,  the  person  having  such  Inuian 
prisoner,  child,  or  woman,  is  a  suitable  person,  and  properly  qualified  to  raise  or  re- 
tain and  educate  said  Indian  prisoner,  child,  or  woman,  it  shall  be  his  or  their  duty 
to  bind  out  the  same,  by  indenture,  for  the  term  of  not  exceeding  twenty  years,  at 
the  discretion  of  the  judge  or  selectmen.  .        .     .    .    1    ^ 

" '  Sec  2  The  probate  judge  or  selectmen  shall  cause  to  be  written  m  the  indenture 
the  name  and  age,  place  where  born,  name  of  parents  if  known,  tribe  to  whic'i  said 
Indian  person  belonged,  name  of  the  person  having  him  in  po.-session,  name  of  In- 
<lian  from  whom  said  person  was  obtained,  date  of  the  indenture-~a  copy  of  which 
shall  be  filed  in  the  probate  clerk's  oflicc.  .     •     1 .     v 

"  '  Sec  3  The  selectmen  in  their  respective  counties  are  hereby  autlionzea  to  ot- 
tain  such  Indian  prisoners,  children,  or  women,  and  bind  them  to  some  useful  avo- 

"  '  Sec  4  The  master  to  whom  the  indenture  is  made  is  hereby  required  to  send 
said  apprentice  to  school,  if  there  be  a  school  in  the  district  or  vicinity,  for  the  term 
of  three  months  in  each  year,  at  a  time  when  said  Indian  child  shall  be  between  the 
ages  of  seven  years  and  sixteen.  The  master  shall  clothe  his  apprentice  ma  com- 
fortable and  becoming  manner,  according  to  his  said  master's  condition  m  life. 

" '  Approved  March  7, 1862." " 


Chap.  V. 


THE  PROPHET  NO  COMMON  MAN, 


245 


because  his  keep  costs  more  than  his  work  returns.  The  neffro 
however,  is  not  admitted  to  the  communion  of  Saints  —  rather  a 
hard  case  for  the  Karaite,  if  it  be  true  that  salvation  is  nowhere  to 
be  found  beyond  the  pale  of  the  Mormon  Church— and  there  are 
severe  penalties  for  mixing  the  blood  of  Shem  aad  Japhet  with 
the  accursed  race  of  Cain  and  Canaan.  The  humanity  of  the 
Prophet's  followers  to  the  Lamanite  has  been  distorted  by  Gen- 
tiles mto  a  deep  and  dangerous  project  for  "  training  the  Indians" 
to  assassinate  individual  enemies,  and,  if  necessary,  to  act  as  guer- 
rillas against  the  Eastern  invaders.  That  the  Yutas— they  divide 
the  white  world  into  two  great  classes.  Mormon  and  Shwop  or 
American  generally— would,  in  case  of  war,  "stand  by"  their  pat- 
rons, I  do  not  doubt;  but  this  would  only  be  the  effect  of  kind- 
ness, which  it  is  unfair  to  attribute  to  no  worthier  cause. 

The  conversation,  which  lasted  about  an  hour,  ended  by  the 
Prophet  asking  me  the  line  of  my  last  African  exiJoration,  and 
whether  It  was  the  same  country  traversed  by  Dr.  Livingstone 
I  replied  that  it  was  about  ten  degrees  north  of  the  Zambezi 
Mr.  A.  Carrington  rose  to  point  out  the  place  upon  a  map  which 
hung  against  the  wall,  and  placed  his  finger  too  near  the  equator 
when  Mr.  Brigham  Young  said,  "  A  little  lower  down."    There 
are  many  educated  men  in  England  who  could  not  have  corrected 
the  mistake  as  well:  witness  the  "London  Eeview,"in  which  the 
gentleman  who  "does  the  geography"— not  having  the  fear  of  a 
certain  society  in  Whitehall  Place  before  his  eyes— confounds,  in 
all  the  pomp  of  criticism  upon  the  said  exjploration,  lakes  which 
are  not  less  than  200  miles  apart. 

When  conversation  began  to  flag,  we  rose  up,  shook  hands,  as 
IS  the  custom  here,  all  round,  and  took  leave.  The  first  impres- 
sion left  upon  my  mind  by  this  short  seance,  and  it  was  subse- 
quently confirmed,  was,  that  the  Prophet  is  no  common  man,  and 
that  he  has  none  of  the  weakness  and  vanity  which  characterize 
the  common  uncommon  man.  A  desultory  conversation  can  not 
be  expected  to  draw  out  a  master  spirit,  but  a  truly  distinguished 
character  exercises  most  often  an  instinctive— some  would  call  it 
a  mesmeric— effect  upon  those  who  come  in  contact  with  it;  and 
as  we  hate  or  despise  at  first  sight,  and  love  or  like  at  first  sight, 
so  Nature  teaches  us  at  first  sight  what  to  respect.  It  is  observa- 
ble tbat,  although  every  Gentile  writer  has  represented  Mr.  Jo- 
seph Smith  as  a  heartless  impostor,  few  have  ventured  to  apply 
the  term  to  Mr.  Brigham  Young.  I  also  remarked  an  instance 
of  the  veneration  shown  by  his  followers,  whose  affection  for  him 
IS  equaled  only  by  the  confidence  with  which  they  intrust  to  him 
their  dearest  interests  in  this  world  and  in  the  next.  After  my 
visit  many  congratulated  me,  as  would  the  followers  of  the  Tien 
Wong,  or  heavenly  King,  upon  having  at  last  seen  what  thev 
consider  "  a  per  se"  the  most  remarkable  man  in  the  world. 

Before  leaving  the  Prophet's  Block  I  will  describe  the  rest  of 


'^i^i 


i      1 


M  1 


!  ■:  J 


H. 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  V. 


the  building.  The  grounds  are  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  of 
large  pebble-like  stones  and  mortar— the  lime  nov/  us^  la  very 
bad— and  strengthened  with  semicircular  buttresses.  The  maui 
entrance  faces  south,  with  posts  and  chains  before  it  for  tethering 
horses.  The  "Lion  House,"  occupied  by  Mrs.  Young  and  her 
family,  is  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  square :  it  is  so  called  from  a 
stone  lion  placed  over  the  large  pillared  portico,  the  work  of  a 
Mr.  William  Ward,  who  also  cut  the  block  of  white  limestone, 
with  "  Deseret"  beneath  a  bee-hive,  and  other  symbols,  forwarded 
for  the  Washington  Monument  in  1853.  It  is  lamentable  to  state 
that  the  sculptor  is  now  an  apostate.  The  house  resembles  a 
two-storied  Jfast  Indian  tenement,  with  balcony  and  balustrade, 
here  called  an  observatory,  and  is  remarkable  by  its  chunamed 
coat;  it  cost  $65,000— being  the  best  in  the  city,  and  was  finished 
in  one  year.  Before  building  it  the  Prophet  lived  in  the  White 
House,  a  humbler  bungalow  farther  to  the  east;  ho  has  now  given 
it  up  to  his  son,  Joseph  A.Young. 

On  the  west  of  the  Lion  House  lies  the  private  office  in  which 
we  were  received,  and  iarther  westward,  but  adjoining  and  con- 
nected by  a  passage,  is  the  public  office,  where  the  Church  and 
other  business  is  transacted.  This  room,  which  is  larger  than  the 
former,  has  three  desks  on  each  side,  the  left  on  entering  being 
those  of  the  public,  and  the  right  those  of  the  private  clerks.  The 
chief  accountant  is  Mr.  Daniel  O'Calder,  a  Scotchman,  whose  sa- 
•mcity  in  business  makes  him  an  aUnr  c<jo  of  the  President.  At 
the  end  opposite  the  ^oor  there  is  a  larger  pupitre  railed  off,  and 
a  gallery  runs  round  the  upper  wall.  The  bookcases  are  of  the 
yellow  box-elder  wood,  which  takes  a  fine  polish ;  and  all  is  neat, 
clean,  and  business-like. 

Westw.ard  of  the  public  office  is  the  Bee  House,  so  named  from 
the  sculptured  bee-hive  in  front  of  it.  The  Hymenoptor  is  the 
Mormon  symbol  of  industry ;  moreover,  Descrdt  (pronounced  D-s- 
cx6i{)  is,  in  "reformed  Egyptian,"  the  homy -bee;  the  term  is  ap- 
plied with  a  certain  violence  to  Utah,  whero,  as  yet,  that  indus- 
trious insect  is  an  utter  stranger.*  The  Bee  House  is  a  largo 
building,  with  the  long  walls  facing  east  and  west.  It  is  double 
stt)rifd,  with  the  lower  windows,  which  are  barred,  oblong :  the 
upi)er,  ten  in  number,  arc  narrow,  and  shaded  b;y  ?  small  acute 
ogive  or  gable  over  each.  The  color  of  the  building  is  a  yellow- 
ish-white, which  contrasts  well  with  the  green  blinds,  and  the  roof, 
which  is  acute,  is  tiled  with  shingles.  It  was  finished  in  1845, 
and  IS  tenanted  by  the  "jilurality  wives"  and  theii'  families,  wlio 
each  have  u  iHulroom,  sitting-room,  and  closet  8imi)ly  and  similarly 
furnished.    Tlicro  is  a  Moslem  air  of  retirement  about  the  Bee 


•  "Anil  thry  (»nl.  Jarod  nnil  liin  bmtlicr)  diil  also  carry  with  tliPtn  Dcw«r(<t,  whicli 
l»y  inlcrpr'liitlon  Ik  ii  hdiii-y  Ikio  ;  and  they  did  curry  with  thcin  Hwarms  of  tx-i  ■^  nnd 
ftfl  miiiinir  of  that  whirli  wiw  ui)OU  the  f»co  of  tho  liuid,  »oodii  of  every  klud."— iiooi 
of  Ether,  choi).  '..par.  8. 


•  . 

i 

i 

1 

Ti-'- 

f 
■    i 

■  :    ,1    y 
! 

■ 

Chap.  "^ 


House 
voice  i 
be,  like 
for  nol 
ness. 

I  wa 
thePr 
knowL 
GentJl( 
hold  o 
scatter 
many  J 
the  lat( 
buildii] 
purpos 
shall  a1 
regulat 
judge 
circum 
belvidc 
extern! 
with  th 
for.  » 
Brothe 

On  t 
trays,  m 
S*ore,  I 
rooms, 
time  o 
raakint 
als,  wh 
more  i 
unint^l 
conver 
scandal 
the  pec 
that  th 
rics.  ] 
tithes  1 
proptTi 
mcome 
somctir 
Churcl! 
what  ( 
If  the 
for  it  ] 
writers 
wishes 


Chap.  V. 


THE  PROPHET'S  PKOGENY.— TITHES. 


249 


House ;  the  face  of  woman  is  rarely  seen  at  the  window,  and  her 
voice  ia  never  heard  from  without.  Anti-Mormons  declare  it  to 
be,  like  the  state-prison  at  Auburn,  a  self-supporting  establishment 
for  not  even  the  wives  of  the  Prophet  are  allowed  to  live  in  idle- 
ness. 

I  was  unwilling  to  add  to  the  number  of  those  who  had  annoyed 
the  Prophet  by  domestic  allusions,  and  therefore  have  no  direct 
knowledge  of  the  extent  to  which  he  carries  polygamy ;  some 
Gentiles  allow  him  seventeen,  others  thirty-six,  out  of  a  house- 
hold of  seventy  members ;  others  an  indefinite  number  of  wives 
scattered  through  the  difi'erent  settlements.  Of  these,  doubtless, 
many  are  but  wives  by  name,  such,  for  instance,  as  the  widows  of 
the  late  Prophet;  and  others  are  married  more  for  the  purpose  of 
building  up  for  themselves  spiritual  kingdoms  than  for  the  normal 
purpose  of  matrimony.  When  treating  of  Mormon  polygamy  I 
shall  attempt  to  show  that  the  relation  between  the  sexes  as  lately 
regulated  by  the  Mormon  faith  necessitates  polygamy.  I  should 
judge  the  Prophet's  progeny  to  be  numerous  from  the  following 
circumstance :  On  one  occasion,  when  standing  with  him  on  the 
belvidere,  my  eye  fell  upon  a  new  erection :  it  could  be  compared 
externally  to  nothing  but  an  English  gentleman's  hunting  stables, 
with  their  little  clock-tower,  and  I  asked  him  what  it  was  intended 
for.  "  A  private  school  for  my  children,"  he  replied, "  directed  by 
Brother  L.  B.  Kelsey."    The  harem  is  said  to  have  cost  $30,000. 

On  the  extreme  west  of  tbio  block,  backed  by  a  pound  for  es- 
trays,  which  is  no  longer  used,  lies  the  Tithing  House  and  Deserdt 
S^orc,  a  long,  narrow,  upper-storied  building,  with  cellars,  store- 
rooms, receiving-rooms,  pay-rooms,  and  writing  oifices.  At  this 
time  of  the  year  it  cbielly  contains  linseed,  and  rags  for  paper- 
making;  after  the  harvest  it  is  well  stuffed  with  grains  and  cere- 
als, which  are  taken  instead  of  money  payment.  There  is  nothing 
more  unpopular  among  the  American  "Gentiles,  or,  indeed,  more 
unintelligible  to  them,  than  these  Mosaic  tithes,  which  the  English 
converts  pay,  from  habit,  without  a  murmur.  They  serve  for 
scandalous  insinuations,  viz.,  that  the  chiefs  are  leeches  that  draw 
the  people's  golden  blood ;  that  the  imposts  are  compulsory,  and 
that  thev  are  embezzled  and  peculated  by  the  principal  xlignita- 
rics.  1  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  contrary  is  the  case.  The 
tithes  which  are  paid  into  tlio  "Treasury  of  the  Lord"  upon  the 
property  of  a  Saint  on  profession,  and  afterward  upon  his  annual 
income,  or  his  time,  or  by  substitute,  are  wholly  voluntary.  It 
sometiniCH  happens  tliat  a  man  casta  his  all  into  the  bopom  of  the 
Church ;  in  this  ciwe  tlio  all  is  not  refused,  bulr— may  I  ask — by 
what  ('huroh  body,  Islamitic,  Christian,  or  pagan,  would  it  bo? 
If  the  Prophet  takes  any  thing  from  the  Tithing  Ilouse,  he  pays 
for  it  like  other  men.  The  writers  receive  stipends  like  other 
writers,  and  no  more ;  of  course,  if  any  one— clerk  or  lawyer — 
wi.she8  to  do  tlio  business  of  the  Church  gratis,  he  is  graciously 


-.1,. 


250 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


Eermitted;  and  where,  I  repeat,  would  he  not  be?  The  Latter- 
•ay  Saints  declare  that  if  their  first  Presidency  and  Twelve  Apos- 
tles—of whom  some,  by-the-by,  are  poor— grow  rich,  it  is  by  due 
benevolence,  not  by  force  or  fraud.  Much  like  the  primitive  col- 
lege, and  most  unlike  their  successors  in  this  modern  day,  each 
apostle  must  have  some  craft,  and  all  live  by  handiwork,  either 
in  house,  shop,  or  field,  no  drones  being  allowed  in  the  social  hive. 
The  tithes  are  devoted  in  part  to  Church  works,  especially  to 
"building  up  temples  or  otherwise  beautifying  and  adorning  Zion, 
as  thev  may  be  directed  from  on  high,"  and  in  part  to  the  pros- 
peri  ty'of  the  bodv  politic,  temporal,  and  spiritual ;  by  aiding  faith- 
ful and  needy  emigrants,  and  by  supporting  old  and  needy  Saints. 
Perhaps  the  only  true  charge  brought  by  the  Gentiles  against  this, 
and,  indeed,  against  all  the  public  funds  in  the  Mormon  City,  is, 
that  a  large  portion  finds  its  way  eastward,  and  is  expended  in 
"outside  influence,"  or,  to  .speak  plain  English,  bribes.  It  is  be- 
lieved by  Mormons  as  well  as  Gentiles  that  Mr.  Brigham  Young 
has  in  the  States  newspaper  spies  and  influential  political  friends, 
who  arc  attached  to  him  not  only  by  the  ties  of  business  and  the 
natural  respect  felt  for  a  wealthy  man,  but  by  the  strong  bond  of 
a  regular  stipend.  And  such  is  their  reliance  upon  this  political 
dodgery— which,  if  it  really  exists,  is  by  no  means  honorable  to 
the  public  morality  of  tlie  Gentiles— that  they  deride  the  idea  of 
a  combined  movement  from  Washington  ever  being  made  against 
them.  In  1860  Governor  Camming  proposed  to  tax  the  tithing 
fund ;  but  the  Saints  replied  that,  -s  pronerty  is  first  taxed  and 
then  tithed,  by  such  proceeding  it  would  be  twice  taxed. 

"  This  people" — a  term  reiterated  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City  usque 
ml  Hfuw«(?u— declares  ita  belief  "in  being  subject  to  kings,  queen, 
presidents,  rulers,  and  magistrates ;  in  obeving,  honoring,  and  sus- 
tainir.g  the  law."  They  are  nt)t  backward  in  open  acts  of  loyalty 
— I  beg  America's  pardon — of  adhesion  to  the  Union,  such  as  sup- 

SlVMng  stones  for  the  Washington  Monument  and  soldiers  for  the 
[exican  War.  But  they  make  scant  jiretension  of  patriotism. 
They  regard  the  States  pretty  much  as  the  States  regarded  En- 
gland fttler  the  War  of  Independence,  and  hate  them  as  the  Mex- 
ican Criollo  does  the  Gachupin — very  much  also  for  the  same 
reason.  Theirs  is  a  deep  and  abiding  resentment,  which  time  will 
strengthen,  not  ell'ace :  tlic  deeds  of  Missouri  and  Illinois  will  btur 
fruit  lor  many  an<l  many  a  genei-ation.  The  federal  goveriunent, 
they  say,  lias,  so  liir  from  protecting  their  lives  and  property,  left 
them  to  be  burned  out  and  driven  away  by  the  liands  of  a  mob, 
far  more  cruel  than  the  "  red-eooted  minions^'  of  poor  King  George; 
that  Generals  Harney  and  Jolinston  wi-ro  only  set  king  the  oi)p(ir- 
tunity  to  act  Burgoyne  and  Cornwalli.s.  But,  more  galling  still 
to  human  nature,  whether  of  .saint  or  sinner,  tliey  are  de8j)incd, 
"treaU'd,  in  fact,  as  nobodies" — and  that  last  of  \i\m\\f^  who  can 
bear?     Their  petitions  to  become  a  sovereign  state  have  bceu 


Chap.  V. 


NEW  INDEPENDENCE  DAY. 


251 


unanswered  and  ignored.  They  have  been  served  with  "  small- 
fry"  politicians  and  "one-horse"  officials:  hitherto  the  phrase  has 
been,  "Any  thing  is  good  enough  for  Utahl"  They  return  the 
treatment  in  kind. 

"  The  Old  Independence,"  the  "  glorious"  4th  of  July,  76,  is 
treated  with  silent  contempt:  its  honors  are  transferred  to  the 
24th  of  July,  the  local  Independence  Day  of  their  annus  mirabilis 
1847,  when  the  weary  pioneers,  preceding  a  multitude,  which,  like 
the  Pilgrim  fathers  of  New  England,  left  country  and  home  for 
conscience'  sake,  and,  led  by  Captain  John  Brown,  whose  uner- 
ring rifle  saved  them  from  starvation  when  the  Indians  had  stam- 
peded their  horses,  arrived  in  the  wild  waste  of  valley.  Their 
form  of  government,  which  I  can  describe  only  as  a  democratic 
despotism  with  a  leaven  of  the  true  Mosaic;  theocracy,  enables 
them  to  desnise  a  political  system  in  which  they  say — quoting 
Hamilton — tnat  "every  vital  mterest  of  the  state  is  merged  in 
the  all-absorbing  question  of  'who  shnll  bo  the  next  president.'  " 
There  is  only  one  "Yankee  gridiron"  in  the  town,  and  that  is  a 
private  concern.  I  do  not  remember  ever  seeing  a  liberty-pole, 
that  emblem  of  a  tyrant  majority,  which  has  been  bowed  to  from 
New  York  to  the  Ilhine.*  A  favorite  toast  on  public  occasions 
is,  "  Wo  can  rock  the  cradle  of  Liberty  without  Uncle  Sam  to 
help  us,"  and  so  forth.  These  sentiments  show  how  the  wind  sets. 
In  two  generations  hence — perhaps  New  Zion  has  a  prophet-mak- 
ing air — the  Mormons  in  their  present  position  will,  on  their  own 
ground,  be  more  than  a  match  ibr  the  Atlantic,  and,  combined 
with  the  Chinese,  will  be  dangerous  to  the  Pacific  States. 

The  Mormons,  if  they  are  any  thing  in  secular  politics,  aro 
Democrats.  It  has  not  been  judged  advisable  to  cast  oft"  the  last 
rags  of  ])opu]ar  government,  but,  ii*^  will  presently  appear,  theoc- 
racy is  not  much  disguised  by  them.  Although  not  of  the  black 
or  extreme  category,  they  instinctively  feel  that  polygamy  and 
slavery  are  sister  institutions,  claiming  that  sort  of  kindness  which 
arises  from  fellow-feeling,  and  that  Congress  can  not  attack  one 
without  infringing  upon  the  other.  Here,  perhaps,  they  may  bo 
mistaken,  for  nations,  liko  individuals,  however  warmly  and  af- 
fectionately they  love  their  own  peculiar  follies  and  prejudices, 
sins  and  crimes,  aro  not  the  loss,  mdeed  perhaps  tliey  are  rather 
more,  disposed  to  abominate  tlie  follies  and  prejiulices,  the  sins 
and  crimes  of  others.  The  establishment  of  slavery,  however, 
though  hero  it  serves  a  humanitarian  rather  than  a  private  end, 

♦  The  I'lrst  lifwrty-jiolo  was  erected  tm  ilio  open  sjmeo  between  tlio  Courl-honsc 
and  Hri)ndv.i»y,  New  York,  it  is  a  long  HrtK-Rt,:t»",  often  ot'  Hcverid  |)ieee8,  like  tlie 
"ninst  of  some  tiill  itiumirul,"  Hurniounted  h\  a  ak'/i_\-<.ft|),  tlmt  I'lnTRiiin  or  Mithri- 
datic  eoiffurc  ■vviih  which  tlio  Goddess  of  ji'^ny  i'.  Bupiiosed  to  disflguro  herself. 
With  H  |ieculiiir  inconmiouriicc,  "ihe  wliolo  i»''  '.;'•!  to  Iw  "an  nlhiHion  to  Gesler's 
oop  which  Tell  rofuKod  to  do  lionmKe  to,  leii>ii.:ir  lo  the  freedoni  of  Swit/,erlnnd." — 
Battlett.  The  French  soon  niiuie  of  their  f>eu)>lkr  a  peupk  Ik.  Tho  Am«ricaB», 
cnrious  to  say,  still  betiovo  in  it. 


.-LL 


252 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


necessarily  draws  the  Mormons  and  the  Southern  States  together. 
Yet  the  Saints  preferred  as  President  the  late  Mr.  Senator  Doug- 
las, a  Northern  Democrat,  to  his  Southern  rival,  Mr.  Breckinridge. 
They  looked  with  apprehension  of  the  rise  to  power  of  the  Ee- 
publican  party,  which,  had  not  a  weightier  matter  fallen  into  their 
hands,  was  pledged  to  do  them  a  harm.  I  can  not  but  think  that 
absolute  independence  is  and  will  be,  until  attained,  the  principal 
end  and  aim  of  Mormon  haute  politique,  and  when  the  disruption 
of  the  Great  Republic  shall  have  become  a  fait  accompli,  that  Des- 
er^t  will  arise  a  free,  sovereign,  and  independent  state. 

Should  this  event  ever  happen,  it  will  make  the  regions  about 
Great  Salt  Lake  as  exclusive  as  Northern  China  or  Eastern  Ti- 
bet. The  obsolete  rigors  of  the  sanguinary  Mosaic  code  will  be 
renewed  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  while  the  stat- 
ute-crime "bigamy"  and  unlimited  polygamy  will  be  legalized. 
Stripes,  or,  at  best,  fine  and  imprisonment,  will  punish  fornication, 
and  the  penalty  of  adultery  will  be  death  by  lapidation  or  behead- 
ing. As  it  is,  even  under  the  saadow  of  the  federal  laws,  the  self- 
convicted  breaker  of  the  seventh  commandment  will,  it  is  said, 
oflfer  up  his  life  in  expiation  of  ins  crime  to  the  Prophet,  who,  un- 
der present  circumstances,  dismisses  him  with  a  penance  that  may 
end  in  the  death  which  he  has  legally  incurred.  The  offenses 
against  chastity,  morality,  and  decency  are  exceptionally  severe.* 

•  Sec.  32  (of  an  "Act  in  relntion  to  Crimes  and  I'linishmcnt").  Every  person 
wlio  commits  the  crime  of  adultery  shall  be  punished  by  imprisonment  not  exceed- 
ing twenty  years,  and  not  less  tlian  thnv.  years;  or  by  tine  not  exceeding  one  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  not  less  than  tJireo  hundred  dollars;  or  by  both  fine  and  imiirison- 
ment,  at  the  dincretion  of  the  court.  And  when  the  crime  is  committed  between 
parties  any  one  of  whom  is  married,  both  arc  guilty  of  adultery,  and  shall  be  pun- 
ished accordingly.  No  prosccutiou  for  adultery  can  l>c  commonced  but  on  tho  com- 
j)laint  of  tho  husband  or  wife. 

Sec.  .13.  If  any  man  or  woman,  not  b(Mng  married  to  each  other,  lewdly  and  las- 
civiously associate  and  cohabit  together ;  or  if  any  man  or  woman,  married  or  un- 
married, iH  guiity  of  open  and  gross  lewdness,  and  designedly  make  any  open  and 
indecent,  or  obscene  exposure  of  his  or  her  person,  or  of  tho  jjerson  of  another,  every 
such  person  so  offending  shall  be  jjunished  by  im))risonment  not  exceeding  ten  years, 
and  not  less  than  six  months,  and  tine  not  more  than  one  thousand  dollars,  and  not 
less  than  one  hundred  dollars,  or  both,  at  the  discretion  of  the  coint. 

Sec.  34.  If  any  |)erbon  kco])  a  house  of  ill-fame,  resorted  to  for  tho  purpose  of 
prostitution  or  lewdness,  ho  shall  be  iiunished  by  imprisonment  not  cxceciliug  ten 
years,  and  n(jt  less  than  one  year,  or  by  line  not  exrceding  five  hundred  ddllurs,  or 
i>oth  fine  and  im])risonmcnt.  And  any  |K'rs(m  who,  after  lieinR  once  convicted  of 
such  ott'cns*',  is  again  coinictod  of  the  like  offense,  shall  be  punished  not  more  than 
double  tiie  alxjve  specified  is'iialties. 

Sec.  35.  If  any  jwrson  inveigle  or  cnticfl  any  female,  before  reputed  virtuous,  to  a 
house  of  ill-fame,  or  knowingly  conceal,  aii!,  or  ak't  in  concealing  such  fcjiiale  M> 
deluded  or  enticed,  for  the  purpose  uf  prostitution  or  lewdness,  he  shall  be  pimislted 
by  imprisonment  not  more  than  fifteen  years,  nor  less  than  five  years. 

See.  30.  If  nuy  tM'n»on  without  lawful  authorifv  willfully  dig  up,  disinter,  n^move. 
or  carry  any  human  body,  or  tho  rcniains  thereof',  from  its  place  of  intermfnt.  or  aid 
or  wsist  in  so  doing,  or  willfully  rweive,  ion<'e«l,  or  dispose  of  any  such  hiitnon  InKly. 
or  the  remains  thereof;  or  if  any  person  willfully  or  unnecessnrilv,  and  in  an  im- 
pnipcr  manner,  indecently  ('x]>oses  those  rcnsains,  or  abandons  &m  liunian  Imdv.  or 
the  remains  thereof,  in  any  publi<'  plaei%  or  in  any  livcr,  stream,  potul,  or  other  pluoe, 
every  such  offender  gfmU  be  punished  by  impriwmmont  not  exceeding  onj  year,  or 


Chap.  V.      .JUDGE  PHELPS.— MORALS,— ARDENT  SPIRITS. 


253 


The  penalty  attached  to  betting  of  any  kind  is  a  fine  not  exceed- 
ing $300,  or  imprisonment  not  exceeding  six  months.  The  im- 
portation of  spirituous  liquors  is  already  burdened  with  an  octroi 
of  half  its  price,  raising  cognac  and  whisky  to  $12  and  $8  per  gal- 
lon. If  the  state  could  make  her  own  laws,  she  would  banish 
"  poteen,"  hunt  down  the  stills,  and  impose  a  prohibitory  duty 
upon  every  thing  stronger  than  Lager-bier.* 

On  the  saddest  day  of  the  year  for  the  bird  which  has  lost  so 
much  good  fame  by  condescending  to  appear  at  table  aux  choux, 
I  proceeded  with  my  fidus  Achates  —  save  the  aelf-comparison  to 
pious  ^neas — on  a  visit  to  Mr.W.  "W.,  alias  Judge  Phelps,  alias 
"  the  Devil."  He  received  me  with  great  civility,  and  entered 
without  reserve  upon  his  hobbies.  His  house,  which  lies  west  of 
Temple  Block,  bears  on  the  weathercock  ta=n  (Job,  xxxviii.,  35, 
"Adsumus:"  "Here  we  are").  Besides  Hebrew  and  other  lin- 
guistic studies,  the  judge  is  a  meteorologist,  and  has  been  engaged 
for  some  years  in  observations  upon  the  climate  of  the  Territory. 
An  old  editor  at  Independence,  he  now  superintends  the  Utah 
Almanac,  and  gave  me  a  copy  for  the  year  1860,  "  being  the  31st 
year  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints."  It  is 
a  small  duodecimo,  creditably  printed  by  Mr.  J.  M 'Knight,  Utah, 
and  contains  thirty  two  pages.     The  contents  are  the  usual  tables 

by  fine  not  exceeding  ono  thousand  dollars,  or  by  both  fine  and  imprisonment,  at  the 
discretion  of  the  court. 

Sec.  37.  If  any  person  torture  or  cruelly  beat  any  horse,  ox,  or  other  beast,  whether 
belonging  to  himself  or  another,  he  shall  be  punished  by  fine  not  more  than  one 
hundred  dollars. 

Sec.  38.  If  any  person  import,  print,  publish,  sell,  or  distribute  any  book,  pamph- 
lot,  ballad,  or  any  printed  pajwr  containing  obscene  language,  or  obscene  prints,  pic- 
tures, or  descriptions  iTianifcstly  tending  to  corrupt  the  morals  of  youth,  ov  introduce 
into  any  family,  school,  or  place  of  education,  or  buy,  procure,  receive,  or  have  in  his 
lx)S8C8sion  any  such  book,  pami)hlet,  ballad,  printed  paper,  picture,  or  description,  ei- 
ther for  the  purpose  of  loan,  sale,  exhibition,  or  circulation,  or  with  intent  to  intro- 
duce the  same  into  any  fnniily,  school,  or  place  of  education,  he  shall  be  punished  by 
fine  not  exceeding  four  hundred  dollars. 

Sec,  30.  If  any  person  keep  n  house,  sho]>,  or  place  resorted  to  for  thi^  purpose  of 
gambling,  or  permit  or  suffer  any  person  in  any  house,  shop,  or  other  place  under  his 
control  or  care  to  play  at  cards,  dice,  faro,  roulette,  or  other  game  for  money  or  oth- 
cv  thiug.s,  such  offender  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  eight  hundred  dollar.",  or  im- 
prisonment not  exceeding  one  year,  or  both,  at  the  discretion  of  the  court.  In  a 
prosecution  under  this  section,  any  person  who  has  the  charge  of,  or  attends  to  any 
•such  houHc,  shop,  or  place,  may  bo  deemed  the  keeper  thereof. 

*  I  quote  08  an  authority. 

An  Ordinance  regiUnting  the  Mami/actunng  and  Vendinp  of  Ardent  Sjiirits. 

Sec.  1.  He  it  ordained  by  «ho  General  Assembly  t>f  the  State  of  Deaere't,  That  it 
shall  not  bo  lawful  for  any  person  or  jicrsons  in  this  state  to  establish  any  distillery 
or  distilleries  for  the  maiuifacture  of  ardent  spirits  except  as  hereafter  provided  for  ; 
and  any  (icrson  or  persons  who  ■.hall  violate  this  ordinance,  on  conviction  thereof, 
shall  forfeit  all  profwrty  thus  invested  to  the  state,  and  be  liable  to  a  fine  at  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  court  having  jurisdiction. 

Sec.  2.  Be  it  farther  ordained.  That  when  the  govcnior  shal'  deem  it  expedient  to 
have  ardent  spirits  manufactured  within  thid  state,  he  may  grant  u  licen.ie  to  some 
person  or  persons  to  make  and  vend  tho  same,  and  impose  such  restrictions  thcroon 
08  ho  may  deem  requisite, 

Approvoll  Feb.  Vi,  19M. 


If 


•  .1.-.  "  .•    ,■•  11 


254 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


of  days,  sunrises,  sunsets,  eclipses,  etc.,  with  advertisements  on  the 
alternate  pages ;  and  it  ends  with  the  denominations  and  value  of 
gold  and  silver  coins,  original  poetry,  "scientific"  notes  concern- 
ing the  morning  and  evening  stars,  a  list  of  the  United  States  of- 
ficers at  Utah,  the  number  of  the  planets  and  asteroids,  diarrhoea, 
and  "  moral  poetry,"  and  an  explanation  of  the  word  "  almanac," 
concluding  with  the  following  observation : 

"A  person  without  an  almanac  is  somewhat  Uke  a  ship  at  sea  with- 
out a  compass ;  he  never  knows  what  to  do  nor  when  to  do  it." 

«'So  Mormon,  other  sects,  and  Quaker, 
Buy  Almanacs,  and  pay  the  maker.~K.  J." 

The  only  signs  of  sanctity  are  in  the  events  appended  to  the 
days  of  the  week ;  they  naturally  record  the  dates  of  local  inter- 
est, and  the  births  and  deaths  of  prophets  and  patriarchs,  presi- 
dents and  apostles.  Under  the  head  of  "Time,"  however,  some 
novel  information  is  provided  for  the  benefit  of  the  benighted 
chronologist. 

"  Time. — There  is  a  great  mystery  about  time  as  recorded  in  the 
Bible.  Authors  differ  as  to  what  length  of  time  this  world  has  oc- 
cupied since  it  came  into  being.  Add  4004  to  1860,  and  we  have 
5864  years.  . 

"Again,  some  authors  allow,  before  the  birth  of  the  Savior,  5500 
years,  which,  added  to  1860,  gives  7369  years  since  the  beginning. 

"The  book  of  Abraham,  as  translated  by  Joseph  Smith,  gives  'ZOOO 
years  for  the  creation  by  the  gods,  one  day  of  the  Lord  being  a  thou- 
sand years  of  man's  time,  or  a  day  in  Kolob.  This  important  reve- 
lation of  VOOO  years  at  first  shows  5960  years  since  the  transgression 
of  Adam  and  Eve,  and  40  years  to  the  next '  day  of  rest,'  if  the  year 
1900  commences  the  return  of  the  'ten  tribes,'  and  the  first  resurrec- 
tion; or  13,000  years  since  the  gods  said, 'Let  there  be  light,  and 
there  was  light,'  so  that  the  fourteen  thousandth  year  will  be  the  sec- 
ond Sabbath  since  creation. 

"A  day  of  the  Moon  is  nearly  thirty  of  our  days,  or  more  than  ten 

thousand  of  earth's  time.     Verily,  verily, 

"  Man  knows  but  little, 

Nor  knows  that  little  right." 

The  judge  then  showed  me  an  instrument  upon  which  he  had 
expended  the  thought  and  labor  of  j ears:  it  was  that  grand  de- 
sideratum, a  magnetic  compass,  which,  pointing  with  a  second  nee- 
dle to  the  true  north,  would  indicate  variation  so  correctly  as  to 
show  longitude  by  inspection.  The  article,  which  was  as  rough- 
looking  as  it  could  be,  was  placed  upon  the  table ;  but  it  would 
not,  as  the  inventor  explained,  point  to  the  true  north  unless  in  a 
particular  position.  T  refrain  from  recording  my  hundred  doubts 
m  to  the  feasibility  of  the  operation,  and  my  own  suspicions  con- 
cerning the  composition  of  the  instrument.  I  {)resently  took  leavr 
of  Judge  Phelps,  pleased  with  his  quaint  kindness,  but  somehow 
suspecting  him  of  being  a  little  tcte-mo7itee  on  certain  subjects. 


Chap.  V. 


THE  «'DESERET  news."— newspapers. 


255 


As  it  was  newspaper  day,  we  passed  by  tte  "Mountaineer" 
office  and  bought  a  copy.  The  press  is  ably  and  extensively  rep- 
resented in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  as  in  any  other  of  its  Western 
coevals.*  Mormonism,  so  far  from  despising  the  powers  of  pica, 
has  a  more  than  ordinary  respect  for  them.f  Until  lately  tibere 
were  three  weekly  newspapers.  The  "Valley  Tan,"  however, 
during  the  last  winter  expired,  after  a  slow  and  lingering  dysthe- 
sis,  induced  by  overindulgence  in  Gentile  tendencies.  It  was  es- 
tablished in  1858 ;  the  proprietor  was  Mr.  J.  Hartnett,  the  late 
federal  secretary ;  the  editor  was  Mr.  Kirk  Anderson,  followed  by 
Mr.  De  Wolf  and  others ;  the  issue  hebdomadal,  and  the  subscrip- 
tion high=$10  per  annum.  The  recognized  official  organ  of  the 
religion,  which  first  appeared  on  the  15th  of  June,  1850,  is  the 
"Deserdt  News,"  whose  motto  is  "Truth  and  Liberty"  under  a 
hive,  over  which  is  a  single  circumradiated  eye  in  disagreeable 
proximity  to  the  little  busy  bee.  It  has  often  changed  its  size, 
and  is  now  printed  in  small  folio,  of  eight  pages,  each  containing 
four  columns  of  close  type :  sometimes  articles  are  clothed  in  the 

*  According  to  tho  "Elgin  Courant,"  there  arc  between  700  and  800  of  a  fishing 
population  in  Hopeness  who  never  see  a  newspaper. 

t  The  first  Mormon  newspaper  was  tho  "Latter-Day  Saints'  Messenger  and  Ad- 
vocate," published  at  Kirtland,  Ohio,  in  the  time  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith. 

The  "Evening  and  Morning  Star,"  published  at  Independence,  Mo.,  and  edited 
by  W.  W.  Phelps. 

"  Elders'  Journal,"  published  in  1838,  in  the  time  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith. 

"  The  Upper  Missouri  Advertiser,"  published  about  the  same  time ;  it  did  not  last 
long. 

»'Tho  Nauvoo  Neighbor"  disappeared  in  the  days  of  the  Exodus. 

"The  Times  and  Seasons,"  containing  a  compendium  of  intelligence  pertaining 
to  the  upbuilding  of  the  kingdom  of  God,  and  tho  signs  of  tho  Times,  together  with 
a  great  variety  of  information  in  regard  to  the  history,  principles,  persecutions,  de- 
liverances, and  onward  progress  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints. 
Nauvoo  1839-1843.  It  was  edited  by  Elder  John  Taylor  (now  one  of  the  "twelve") 
under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  and  arrived  at  the  fourth  volume  (octavo) : 
this  journal  is  full  of  interesting  matter  to  Mormons. 

"The  Wasp,"  begun  at  Nauvoo  in  1842. 

"The  Frontier  Garden,"  published  at  Council  Bluffs  during  the  Exodus  from 
Nauvoo. 

"The  Seer,"  edited  at  Washington,  by  Elder  Orson  Pratt,  reached  the  second 
volume. 

"The  Gospel  Reflector,"  published  at  Philadelphia,  lasted  for  a  short  time. 

"The  Prophet,"  jiublished  at  New  York. 

"Le  ReHecteur,"  in  French,  published  at  Geneva. 

"Etoile  du  Desore't,  Organe  de  I'Eglise  de  Je'sus-Christ  des  Saints  des  Demiers 
Jours,"  par  John  Taylor,  Paris.  It  lasted  from  May,  1851,  to  April,  ISii'J,  and  forms 
I  vol.  largo  8vo,  containing  192  pages. 

"The  Western  Standard," edited  a^d  published  weekly  at  San  Francisco,  Cali- 
fornia, United  States  of  America,  by  Lider  George  Q.  Cannon,  now  an  Apostle  and 
President  of  the  Church  in  Great  Britain.  This  paper,  which  was  distinguished  by 
the  boftuty  of  its  typo  and  tho  character  of  ils  composition,  lasted  through  185G  and 
1857;  in  1858  it  censed  for  want  of  funds. 

"Zion's  Watchman,'  publisiicd  in  Australia. 

"Udgorn  Seion"  (the  Tnmip  of  Zion),  published  in  Wales,  a  bi-monthly  print, 
which  has  reached  the  ninth  volume. 

"The  Luminarj',"  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

"The  Mormon,"  published  in  New  York,  a  hebdomadal  print. 


i 

't  . 


I  I'iii 


256  THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS.  Chap,  V. 

Mormon  alphabet.  It  had  reached  in  1860  its  tenth  volume;  it 
appears  every  Wednesday ;  costs  at  Utah  $6  per  annum,  in  En- 
gland £1  13s.  8d  per  annum,  in  advance ;  single  number  9d ; 
and  is  superintended  by  Mr.  Brigham  Young.  It  is  edited  by  Mr. 
Elias  Smith,  also  a  Probate  judge;  he  is  assisted  by  Mr.  M'Knight, 
formerly  the  editor  of  a  paper  in  the  United  States,  and  now  the 
author  of  the  important  horticultural,  agricultural,  and  other  geor- 
gic  articles  in  the  "Deserdt  News."  This  "Mociteur"  also  con- 
tains corrected  reports  of  the  sermons  spoken  at  the  Tabernacle. 
An  account  of  a  number  may  not  be  uninteresting. 

No.  28,  vol.  X.,  begins  with  a  hymn  of  seven  stanzas,  by  C.  W. 
Bryant.  Follow  remarks  by  President  Brigham  Young,  at  Provo 
and  in  the  Bowery,  Great  Salt  Lake  City ;  the  three  sermons, 
which  occupy  four  columns  and  a  half,  are  separated  by  "  Mod- 
ern Germany,  II.,"  by  Alexander  Ott.  There  is  an  article  from 
the  "  New  York  Sun,"  entitled  the  "  Great  Eastern  in  Court." 
It  is  followed  by  nearly  half  a  page  of  "  Clippings,"  those  little 
recognized  piracies  which  make  the  American  papers  as  amusing 
as  magazines.  Then  come  advertisements,  estray  notices,  and 
others,  which  nearly  fill  the  third  and  sixth  pages,  and  the  col- 
umn at  the  eighth,  which  is  the  conclusion.  I  subjoin  terms  for 
advertising.*  The  fourth  page  contains  "  News  by  Eastern  Mail" 
— Doings  of  the  Probate  Court — Special  term  of  the  Probate  Court 
— Another  excusable  homicide— The  season — Imprisoning  con- 
victs without  labor — Discharge  of  the  city  police— Swiss  Saints 
(lately  arrived)— Arrival  of  missionaries  at  Liverpool— Drowned, 
Joseph  Vest,  etc.— Deserdt  Agriculturing  and  Manufacturing  So- 
ciety—Information wanted  —  and  Humboldt's  opinion  of  the 
United  States  (comparing  it  to  a  Cartesian  vortex,  liberty  a  dead 
machinery  in  the  hands  of  Utilitarianism,  etc.).  The  fifth  and 
sixth  pages  detail  news  from  Europe,  the  Sicilies,  Damascus,  and 
India,  proceedings  of  a  missionary  meeting  in  the  Bowery,  and 
tidings  from  Juab  and  Iron  County,  with  a  few  stopgaps,  such  as 
an  explanation  of  the  word  Zouave,  and  the  part  conversion  of 
the  fallen  Boston  elm  into  a  "  Mayor's  seat,"  The  seventh  page 
is  agricultural,  and  opens  with  the  "  American  Autumn,"  by  Fan- 
ny Kemble,  four  stanzas.  Then  comes  Sheep-husbandry  No,  iii., 
treating  of  change  of  pasture,  separation  of  the  flock,  and  fall 

•  Advertising. — Ten  linos  or  less  constitute  one  square. 

Regular  Advertisements. 

One  quarter  column  (four  squares  or  less),  for  each  insertion $1  60 

Half  column  (seven  squares  or  less),  each  insertion 3  00 

One  column  (fourteen  squares  or  less) 6  00 

Sundry  Advertisements. 

One  square,  each  insertion $1  00 

Two     "  "  '^'•0 

Three   "  "  2  00 

Thus  upward,  with  half  a  dollar  to  the  additional  square  for  each  insertion. 


Chap.  V.    THE  ' «  DESER:6t  NEWS."— THE  "  MOUNTAINEER."  257 

management.  The  other  morceaux  are  "  Training  the  peach-tree  " 
"Stick  to  the  Farm,"  an  article  concluding  with  "We  shall  al- 
ways sign  'speed  the  plow;'  we  shall  always  regard  the  Ameri- 
can farmer,  dressed  for  his  employment  ( ! )  and  tilling  his  grounds, 
as  belonging  to  the  order  of  real  noblemen"— the  less  aristocratic 
Englander  would  limit  himself  to  "  Nature's  gentleman ;"  "  Why 
pork  shrinks  in  the  pot,"  and  "Wheat-straw,  its  value  as  fodder." 
The  eighth  and  last  page  opens  with  "  Correspondence,"  and  a 
letter  signed  Joseph  Hall,  headed  "More  results  of  *  civilization,' " 
and  dated  Ogden  City,  Sept.  8, 1860.  It  contains  an  account  of 
occurrences  resulting  in  the  "death  of  one  John  Cornwell,  a  dis- 
charged government  teamster,  and,  as  is  often  the  case  with  those 
Christians  who  are  sent  to  civilize  the  'Mormons'  of  these  mount- 
ains, a  corrupt,  profane,  and  quarrelsome  individual,  who  doted 
on  belonging  to  the  'bully  tribe.'"  Then  follows  more  news 
from  San  Pete  County.  A  test  of  love  (that  capital  story  out  of 
C.  E.  Leslie's  autobiography).  Siege  of  Magdeburg.  A  hard- 
shell sermon  (preached  at  Oxford,  England),  a  scrap  illustrating 
the  marvelous  growth  of  Quincy,  Illinois,  and  the  Legend  of  the 
origin  of  the  Piano-forte.  The  latter  is  followed  by  a  valuable 
abstract  containing  a  summary  of  meteorological  observations, 
barometric  and  thermometric,  for  the  month  of  August,  1860,  at 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  by  W.  W.  Phelps,  and  concluding 
with  a  monthly  journal.*  Then  follow  the  deaths,  six  in  num- 
ber, and  after  one  of  them  is  inserted  [Millennial  Star,  copy]. 
There  are  no  marriages,  and  the  Western  papers,  like  those  of 
the  East,  are  still  Ugueules  enough  to  consider  advertising  the 
birth  of  a  child  indelicate ;  at  least  that  was  the  reason  given  to 
me.  The  last  column  contains  the  terms  for  advertising  and  the 
"fill-up"  advertisements. 

The  "Mountaineer,"  whose  motto  is  "Do  what  is  right,  let  the 
consequence  follow,"  is  considered  rather  a  secular  paper.  It  ap- 
pears on  Saturdays,  and  the  terms  of  subscription  are  $6  per  an- 
num; the  occasional  supplement  is  issued  gratis.  It  formerly 
belonged  to  three  lawyers,  Messrs.  Stout,  Blair,  and  Ferguson ;  it 
has  now  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  two  latter.  Mr.  Hosea  Stout 
distinguished  himself  during  the  Nauvoo  troubles ;  he  was  the 
captain  of  forty  policemen  who  watched  over  the  safety  of  Mr. 
Joseph  Smith,  and  afterward  went  on  missions  to  India  and  Chi- 
na. Major  S.  M.  Blair  served  under  General  Sam.  Houston  in 
the  Texan  war  of  independence,  and  was  a  distinguished  lawyer 
in  the  Southern  States.  A  description  of  the  "  Deserdt  News" 
will  apply  to  the  "  Mountaineer."    I  notice  in  the  issue  of  Sep- 

*  The  maximum  of  tho  barometer  during  the  month  is  26'100;  min.  25-400 
"  "  "     thermometer     "  "       96°  F. ;     "     60°  F. 

There  fell  of  rain  water  0'670  inches  during  five  days  marked  showery.  Fifteen 
days  are  marked  clear  and  pleasant,  or  hot  and  dry,'  or  hot  and  very  dry,  the  22d 
being  the  hottest ;  and  tho  others  are  partially  clear,  or  clear  and  cloudy,  or  hazy 
and  cloudy. 

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258 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


tember  15, 1860,  that  a  correspondent,  quoting  an  extract  from 
the  "New  York  Tribune"  — the  great  Repubhcan  organ  and 
therefore  no  favorite  with  the  Mormons  -  says,  outspokenly 
enough  to  please  any  amount  of  John  Bull,  »T£e  author  ot  the 
abovf  is  a  most  consummate  liar"-so  far,  so  good-"  and  a  con- 
temptible  dastardly  poltroon"— which  is  invidious.  .  ,  . ,    ^ 

I  passed  the  morning  of  the  ensuing  Sunday  in  a  pamful  but 
appr?priate  exercise,  reading  the  Books  of  Mormon  and  of  Mo- 
vhniie  Prophet.     Some  writers  tell  me  that  it  is  the  best  extant 
imitation  of  the  Old  Testament;  to  me  it  seems  composed  only 
to  emulate  the  sprightliness  of  some  parts  of  Leviticus     Others 
declare  that  it  is  founded  upon  a  romance  composed  by  a  Eev. 
Mr  Spaulding;  if  so,  Mr.  Spaulding  must  have  been  like  Pnnce 
Puckfer-Muskau  of  traveling  notoriety,  a  romancer  utterly  with- 
out romance.    Surely  there  never  was  a  book  so  thoroughly  dull 
and  heavy:  it  is  monotonous  as  a  sage-prairie.     i hough  not  lia- 
ble to  be  terrified  by  dry  or  hard  reading,  I  was,  it  is  only  fair  to 
own,  unable  to  turn  over  more  than  a  few  chapters  at  a  time,  and 
my  conviction  is  that  very  few  are  so  highly  gifted  that  they  have 
been  able  to  read  it  through  at  a  heat     In  Mormonism  it  now 
holds  the  same  locus  as  the  Bible  in  the  more  ignorant  Roman 
Catholic  countries,  where  religious  reading  is  chiefly  restricted  to 
the  Breviary,  to  tales  of  miracles,  uud  to  legends  of  Saints  Ursula 
and  Bridget.    It  is  strictly  proper,  does  not  contain  a  word  about 
materialism  and  polygamy*-in  fact,  niore  than  one  wife  is  strictly 
forbidden  even  fii  the  Book  of  Doctrines  and  Covenants  f    The 
Mormon  Bible,  therefore,  is  laid  aside  for  later  and  lighter  read- 
ine     In  one  point  it  has  done  something.    America,  like  Atrica, 
is  a  continent  of  the  future;  the  Book  of  Mormon  has  created  lor 
it  an  historical  and  miraculous  past.  i  •    •.  i    . 

At  9  45  A.M.  wo  entered  the  Bowery;  it  is  advisable  to  go 
early  if  scate  within  hearing  are  required.  The  place  wna  a  kind 
of  "  hanear,"  about  a  hundred  feet  long  by  the  same  breadth,  with 
a  roofing  of  bushes  and  boughs  supported  by  rough  posts,  and 
open  for  ventilation  on  the  sides;  it  can  contain  about  3000  souls. 
'rtio  congregation  is  accommodated  upon  long  rows  ot  benches, 
■  opposite  the  dais,  rostrum,  platform,  or  tribune,  which  looked  like 
a  long  lane  of  boarding  open  to  the  north,  where  it  laced  the  au- 
dience, and  entered  by  steps  from  the  cast.  Between  the  i)coplo 
and  the  platform  was  a  place  not  unlike  a  Methodist  pen  at  a 
camp-meeting:  tliis  was  allotted  to  the  on-hestra,  a  violin,  u  bass, 
two  women  and  lour  men  performers,  who  sang  the  sweet  songs 
of  Zion  tolerably  well— decidedly  well,  after  a  moments  rcUcc- 

♦  IkilioUl  tlio  Lamanitcs  (North  Amorican  In.linnn).  your  brethren,  whom  yn  hatp 
iwnoiu  nu   •'»■"»"•       V  ^„_...  „,„  ...i,i,.!,  liiilh  inme  Hixtn  the  r  skins,  arc 

Iwcnuso  ot  thoir  iilihnifH*,  nml  tho  run>m^M  aIik  ii  iiiim  <oine  hih-i,  ,ii  ' 

more  riffhteoui.  than  you,  for  thoy  hare  not  forRotton  tlic  commandmortt  of  I  ho  Lord, 
which  wi.«rcn  unto  our  fathom,  that  thoy  »ho„hl  havo,  ,avo  it  wer^  one  wifo ;  an. 
roncuhrMhoT.ho„l.l  havo  none;  and  there  .hould  not  be  -j'"-'"--'-'''''-' 
amonir  thcm.-/ioot  oj  Jacob,  chap,  li.,  par.  9.  hoc  thap.  l.V. 


Chap.  V. 


THE  BOWERY.— MUSIC— DRESS. 


269 


I 


tion  as  to  latitude  and  longitude,  and  after  reminiscences  of  coun- 
try and  town  chapels  in  that  land  where  it  is  said,  had  the  Psalm- 
ist heard  his  own  psalms, 

"In  furious  mood  he  would  have  tore  'em." 

I  was  told  that  "profane" — i  e.,  operatic  and  other — music  is  per- 
formed at  worship,  as  in  the  Italian  cathedrals,  where  they  are 
unwilling  that  Sathanas  should  monopolize  the  prettiest  airs ;  on 
this  occasion,  however,  only  hymns  were  sung. 


BUUTU   KM)  llf  TIIK   TAIIKBMAOI,R. 


Wc — the  judge's  son  and  I — took  our  seats  on  the  benches  of 
the  eighth  ward,  where  wc  could  see  the  congregation  flocking 
in,  a  proceeding  which  was  not  over — some  coming  from  consid- 
erable distances — till  10  15  A.M.  The  people  were  all  endiman- 
ch4s ;  many  a  pretty  face  peeped  from  the  usual  sun-bonnet  with 
its  long  curtain,  though  the  "mushrooiu"  and  the  "  j)()rk-pie"  had 
found  their  way  over  the  plains,  and  trim  ligures  were  clad  in 
neat  stuff  dresses,  sometimes  silk :  iu  very  few  cases  there  was  a 
little  faded  finery — gauze,  feather?,  and  gaudy  colors — such  as  one 
may  see  on  great  festivals  in  an  Old-Country  village.  The  men 
wore  as  decently  attired :  the  weather,  being  fiot,  hau  caused  many 
of  thorn  to  leave  their  coats  at  home,  and  to  o])en  their  vests;  the 
costume,  however,  looked  natural  to  working-men,  and  there  was 
no  want  of  cleanlines,'?,  such  as  somotimea  lurks  beliind  a  bulwark 
of  buttons.  The  elders  and  dignitaries  on  the  platform  affected 
coats  of  black  broadcloth,  and  were  otherwise  respectably  dress- 


.^^ 


260 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  V. 


ed.  All  wore  their  hats  till  the  address  began,  and  then  all  un- 
covered. By  my  side  was  the  face  of  a  blear-eyed  English  serv- 
ant-girl ;  en  revanche  in  front  was  a  charming  American  mother 
and  child :  she  had,  what  I  have  remarked  in  Mormon  meetings 
at  Saville  House  and  other  places  in  Europe,  an  unusual  develop- 
ment of  the  organ  which  phrenologists  call  veneration.  I  did  not 
see  any  Bloomers  "displaying  a  serviceable  pair  of  brogues,  or 
"  pictures  of  Grant  Thorburn  in  petticoats."  There  were  a  lew 
specimens  of  the  "  Yankee  woman,"  formerly  wondrous  grim, 
with  a  shrewd,  thrifty  gray  eye,  at  once  cold  and  eager,  angular 
in  body  and  mind,  tall,  bony,  and  square-shouldered,  now  soft- 
ened and  humanized  by  transplantation  and  transposition  to  her 
proper  place.  The  number  of  old  people  astonished  me ;  half  a 
dozen  were  sitting  on  the  same  bench ;  these  broken-down  men 
and  decrepit  crones  had  come  to  lay  their  bones  in  the  Holy  City; 
their  presence  speaks  equally  well  for  their  faith  and  for  the  kind- 
heartedness  of  those  who  had  brought  the  encumbrance.  I  re- 
marked  some  Gentiles  in  the  Bowery ;  many,  however,  do  not 
care  to  risk  what  they  may  hear  there  touching  themselves. 

At  10  A.M.  the  meeting  opened  with  a  spiritual  song.  Then 
Mr.  Wallace— a  civilized-looking  m»n  lately  returned  from  for- 
eign travel— being  called  upon  by  the  presiding  elder  for  the  day 
opened  the  meeting  with  prayer,  of  which  the  two  short-hand 
writers  in  the  tribune  proceeded  to  take  notes.  The  matter,  as 
is  generally  the  case  with  returned  missionaries  delivering  their 
budget,  was  good ;  the  manner  was  somewhat  Hibernian ;  the 
"  valleys  of  the  mountains"— a  stock  phrase,  appeared  and  reap- 
peared like  the  speechifying  Patlander's  eternal  "emerald  green 
hills  and  beautiful  pretty  valleys."  He  ended  by  imploring  a 
blessing  upon  the  (Mormon)  President,  and  all  those  in  author- 
ity; Gentiles  of  course  were  included.  The  conclusion  was.,  an 
amen,  in  which  all  hands  joined :  it  reminded  me  of  the  historical 
practice  of  "  humming"  in  the  seventeenth  century,  which  caused 
the  universities  to  be  called  "  ffum  el  Hissimi  auditorcs.'^ 

Next  arose  Bishop  Abraham  O.  Smoot,  second  mayor  of  Zion. 
,and  successor  to  the  late  Jedediah  M.  Grant,  who  began  with 
"  Brethering,"  and  proceeded  at  first  in  a  low  and  methody  tone 
of  voice,  "hardly  audible  in  the  gallery,"  to  praise  the  Saints, 
and  to  pitch  into  the  apostates.  His  delivery  was  by  no  means 
fluent,  even  when  ho  warmed.  He  made  undue  use  of  the  regu- 
lar Wesloynn  organ— the  nose ;  but  he  appeared  to  speak  excel- 
lent sense  in  execrable  English.  He  recalled  past  persecutions 
without  over-asperity,  and  promised  future  prosperity  without 
over-prophecy.  As  he  was  in  the  midst  of  an  allusion  to  the 
President,  entered  Mr.  Brighum  Young,  and  all  turned  their  faces, 
oven  the  old  lady — 

"Pout-on  ai  blon  prikhcr  qu'ello  ne  dorme  au  Mrmon?"— 


Chap.  V. 


THE  BOWERY.— THE  SERMON. 


261 


who,  dear  aoul  1  from  Hanover  Square  to  far  San  Francisco,  plac- 
idly reposes  through  the  discourse. 

The  Prophet  was  dressed,  as  usual,  in  gray  homespun  and  home- 
woven  :  he  wore,  like  most  of  the  elders,  a  tall,  steeple-crowned 
straw  hat,  with  a  broad  black  ribbon,  and  he  had  the  rare  refine- 
ment of  black  kid  gloves.  He  entered  the  tribune  covered  and 
sat  down,  r.pparently  greeting  those  near  him.  A  man  in  a  fit 
was  carried  out  pumpward.  Bishop  Smoot  concluded  with  in- 
forming us  that  we  should  live  for  God.  Another  hymn  was 
sung.  Then  a  great  silence,  which  told  us  that  something  was 
about  to  happen :  that  old  man  held  his  cough ;  thai  old  lady 
awoke  with  a  start;  that  child  ceased  to  squall.  Mr.  Brigham 
Young  removed  his  hat,  advanced  to  the  end  of  the  tribune,  ex- 
pectorated stooping  over  the  spittoon,  which  was  concealed  from 
sight  hy  the  boarding,  restored  the  balance  of  fluid  by  a  glass  of 
water  from  a  well-filled  decanter  on  the  stand,  and,  leaning  slight- 
ly forward  upon  both  hands  propped  on  the  green  baize  of  the 
tribune,  addressed  his  followers. 

The  discourse  began  slowly ;  word  crept  titubantly  after  word, 
and  the  opening  phrases  were  hardly  audible ;  but  as  the  orator 
warmed,  his  voice  rose  high  and  sonorous,  and  a  fluency  so  re- 
markable succeeded  falter  and  hesitation,  that — although  the  phe- 
nomenon is  not  rare  in  strong  speakers — the  latter  sccj.jd  almost 
to  have  been  a  work  of  art.  The  manner  was  pleasmg  and  ani- 
mated, and  the  matter  fluent,  impromptu,  and  well  turned,  spoken 
rather  than  preached :  if  it  had  a  fault  it  was  rather  rambling  and 
unconnected.  Of  course,  colloquialisms  of  all  kinds  were  intro- 
duced, such  as  "he  become,"  "for  you  and  I,"  and  so  forth.  The 
gestures  were  easy  and  rounded,  not  without  a  certain  grace, 
though  evidently  untaught;  one,  however,  must  be  excepted, 
namely,  that  of  raising  and  shaking  the  forefinger;  this  is  often 
done  in  the  Eastern  States,  but  the  rest  of  the  world  over  it  is 
considered  threatening  and  bullying.  The  address  was  long. 
God  is  a  mechanic.  Mormonism  is  a  great  fact.  Religion  had 
made  him  (the  speaker)  the  happiest  of  men.  He  was  ready  t(» 
dance  like  a  Shaker.  At  this  sentence  the  Prophet,  who  is  a  good 
mimic,  and  has  much  of  the  old  New  English  quaint  humor,  raised 
his  ri^ht  arm,  and  gave,  to  the  amusement  of  the  congregation,  a 
droll  imitation  of  Anne  Lee's  followers.  The  Gentiles  had  sent 
an  army  to  lay  waste  Zion,  and  what  had  they  done?  Why, 
hung  one  ^f  their  own  tribe  I  and  that,  too,  on  the  Lord's  day  !* 

•  Alluding  to  one  Tlios.  II.  FerRuson,  a  Gcntilo;  ho  killed,  on  Sept.  17th,  18fi9, 
in  a  dninkpu  moment,  A.  Cnrpentcr,  who  kept  a  boot  and  shoe  store.  Judge  Sin- 
clair, nccorditiK  to  the  Mormons,  was  exceedmjtly  iinxions  that  somebody  should  be 
tut.fxr  coll.,  and,  although  intoxication  is  usually  adtuittcd  m  u  pluu  in  the  Wcstorn 
States,  ho  ignornd  it,  and  hanged  the  man  en  Sunday.  Mr.  Ferguson  was  executed 
in  a  place  behind  the  city  ;  ho  appeared  costumed  in  a  Uobin  Hood  stylo,  and  com- 
plained bitterly  to  the  ^lormo^  troops,  who  wore  drawn  out,  that  hii  request  to  b« 
shot  had  not  been  granted. 


^»' 

^9^^H 

1 

fWm 

262 


THE  Cmr  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Ctap.  V. 


The  Saints  have  a  glorious  destiny  before  them,  and  their  moral- 
ity is  remarkable  as  the  beauty  of  the  Promised  Land :  the  soft 
breeze  blowing  over  the  Bowery,  and  the  glorious  sunshine  out- 
side, made  the  allusion  highly  anpropriate.  The  Lamanites,  or 
Indians,  are  a  religious  people.  All  races  know  a  God  and  may 
be  saved.  After  a  somewhat  lengthy  string  of  sentences  concern- 
ing the  great  tribulation  coming  on  earth — it  has  been  coming  for 
the  last  1800  years— he  concluded  with  good  wishes  to  visitors 
and  Gentiles  generally,  with  a  solemn  blessing  upon  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  the  territorial  governor,  and  all  such  as  be 
in  authority  over  us,  and,  with  an  amen  which  was  loudly  re-ech- 
oed by  all  around,  he  restored  his  hat  and  resumed  his  seat. 

Having  heard  much  of  the  practical  good  sense  which  charac- 
terizes the  Prophet's  discourse,  I  was  somewhat  disappointed: 
probably  the  occasion  had  not  been  prooitious.  As  regards  the 
concludmg  benedictions,  they  are  profanely  compared  by  the  Gen- 
tiles to  those  of  the  slave,  who,  while  being  branded  on  the  hand, 
was  ordered  to  say  thrice,  "God  bless  tne  State."  The  first  was 
a  blessing.  So  was  the  second.  But  at  the  third,  natural  indig- 
nation having  mastered  Sambo's  philosophy,  forth  came  a  certain 
naughty  word  not  softened  to  "  dam."  During  the  discourse,  a 
Saint,  in  whose  family  some  accident  had  occurred,  was  called 
out,  but  the  accident  failed  to  affect  the  riveted  attention  of  the 
audience. 

Then  arose  Mr.  Hf^ber  C.  Kimball,  the  second  President.  Ho 
is  the  model  of  a  Methodist,  a  tall  and  powerful  man,  a  "gentle- 
man in  black,"  with  small,  dark,  piercing  eyes,  and  clean-shaven 
blue  face.  He  affects  the  Boanerges  style,  and  does  not  at  times 
disdain  the  part  of  Thersites :  from  a  certain  dislike  to  the  Non- 
conformist rant  and  whine,  he  prefers  an  every-day  manner  of 
speech,  which  savors  rather  of  familiarity  than  of  reverence.  The 
people  look  more  amused  when  he  speaks  than  when  others  ha- 
rangue them,  and  they  laugh  readily,  as  almost  all  crowds  will,  at 
the  thinnest  phantom  of  a  joke.  Mr.  Kimball's  movements  con- 
trasted strongly  with  those  of  his  predecessor;  they  consisted  now 
of  a  stone-throwing  gesture  delivered  on  tiptoe,  then  of  a  descend- 
ing movement,  as 

"When  pulpit,  dnim  ecclesiastic, 
Was  beat  with  fist  and  not  with  stick." 

He  began  with  gencralisms  about  humility,  faithfulness,  obeying 
counsel,  and  not  beggaring  one's  neighbor.  Addressing  the  hand- 
cart emigrants,  newly  arrived  from  the  "  sectarian  world,"  he  warn- 
ed them  to  be  on  the  look-out,  or  that  every  soul  of  them  would 
be  taken  in  and  shaved  (a  laugh).  Agreeing  with  the  Prophet- 
Mr.  Kimball  is  said  to  be  his  echo— in  a  promiscuous  way  con- 
cerning the  morality  of  the  Saints,  he  felt  it  notwithstanding  his 
duty  to  say  that  among  them  were  "some  of  tlio  greatest  rascals 
in  the  world"  (a  louder  laugh,  and  N.B.,  the  Mormons  arc  never 


Chap.V. 


THE  BOWERY.— MB.  KIMBALL'S  STYLE. 


263 


spared  by  their  own  preacliers).    After  a  lonff  suit  of  advice,  d 
propos  de  rien,  to  missionaries,  he  blessed,  ameird,  and  sat  down. 

I  confess  that  the  second  President's  style  startled  me.  But 
presently  I  called  to  mind  Luther's  description*  of  Tetzel's  ser- 
mon, in  which  he  used  to  shout  the  words  Bring  I  bring !  bring ! 
with  such  a  horrible  bellowing,  that  one  would  have  said  it  was  a 
mad  bull  rushing  on  the  people  and  goring  them  with  his  horns ; 
and  D'Aubignd's  neat  apology  for  Luther,f  who,  "  in  one  of  those 
homely  and  quaint,  yet  not  undignified  similitudes  which  he  was 
fond  of  using,  that  he  might  be  understood  by  the  people,"  illus- 
trated the  idea  of  God  in  history  bv  a  game  of  cards!  "  .  .  .  Then 
came  our  Lord  God.  He  dealt  the  cards :  .  .  .  This  is  the  Ace 
of  God.  ..."  Mormons  also  think  it  a  merit  to  speak  openly 
of  "  those  things  we  know  naturally :"  they  affect  what  to  others 
appears  coarseness  and  indelicacy.  The  same  is  the  case  with 
Oriental  nations,  even  among  the  most  modest  and  moral.  After 
all,  taste  is  in  its  general  development  a  mere  affair  of  time  and 

Elace;  what  is  apt  to  froisser  us  in  the  nineteenth  may  have  been 
ighly  refined  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  what  may  be  exceed- 
ingly unfit  for  Westminster  Abbey  and  Notre  Dame  is  often  per- 
fectly suited  to  the  predilections  and  intelligence  of  Wales  or  the 
Tessin.  It  is  only  fair  to  both  sides  to  state  that  Mr.  Kimball  is 
accused  hj  Gentiles  of  calling  his  young  wives,  from  the  pulpit, 
"little  heifers;"  of  entering  into  physiological  details  belonging 
to  the  Dorcas  Society,  or  the  clinical  lecture-room,  rather  than  the 
house  of  worship ;  and  of  transgressing  the  bounds  of  all  decorum 
when  reproving  the  sex  for  its  penchants  and  ridicules.  At  the 
same  time,  I  never  heard,  nor  heard  of,  any  such  indelicacy  during 
my  stay  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  The  Saints  abjured  all  knowl- 
edge of  the  "  fact,"  and — in  this  case,  nefas  ah  hoste  doceri — so  gross 
a  scandal  should  not  be  adopted  from  Gentile  mouths. 

After  Mr.  Kimball's  address,  a  list  of  names  for  whom  letters 
were  lying  unclaimed  was  called  from  the  platform.  Mr.  El- 
dridge,  a  missionary  lately  returned  from  foreign  travel,  adjourn- 
ed the  meeting  till  2  P.M.,  delivered  the  prayer  of  dismissal,  dur- 
ing which  all  stood  up,  and  ended  with  the  benediction  and  amen. 
The  Sacrament  was  not  administered  on  this  occasion.  It  is  often 
given,  and  reduced  to  the  very  elements  of  a  ceremony;  even  wa- 
ter is  used  instead  of  wine,  because  the  latter  is  of  Gentile  manu- 
facture. Two  elders  walk  up  and  down  the  rows,  one  carrying  a 
pitcher,  the  other  a  plato  of  broken  bread,  and  each  Saint  partaken 
of  both. 

Directly  the  ceremony  was  over,  I  passed  through  the  thirty 
carriages  and  wagons  that  awaited  at  tne  door  the  issuing  of  the 
congregation,  and  returned  home  to  write  my  notes.  Before  ap- 
l)earing  in  the  "  Deserdt  News"  the  discourses  arc  always  recom- 

♦  History  of  the  Reformation  of  the  Sixteenth  Century.     Book  iii.,  chap.  i. 
t  Ditto,  I'rcfacc. 


tiJ 


264 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.V. 


posed ;  the  reader,  therefore,  is  warned  against  the  following  re- 

gort,  which  appeared  in  the  "  News"  of  Wednesday,  the  5th  of 
eptember. 

"Bowery. — Sunday,  Sept.  2, 10  A.M.,  Bishop  Abraham  O.  Smoot 
addressed  the  congregation.  He  said  be  rejoiced  in  the  opportunity 
he  had  been  favored  with  of  testiiig  both  principles  and  men  in  the 
Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints ;  he  was  fully  satisfied 
that  those  who  do  right  are  constantly  filled  with  joy  and  gladness 
by  the  influence  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  Every  man  must  know  God  for 
himself,  and  practice  the  principles  of  righteousness  for  himself;  learn 
the  truth  and  the  light,  and  walk  therein.  Men  are  too  much  in  the 
habit  of  patterning  after  tlieir  neiglibors'  actions  instead  of  following 
the  dictates  of  the  Spirit  of  God ;  if  the  Saints  do  right  they  are  filled 
with  light,  t''uth,  and  the  power  of  God.  It  has  been  a  matter  of  as- 
tonishment to  many  how  we  could  so  much  rejoice  in  the  things  of 
God,  but  the  reason  is  our  religion  is  true,  and  we  know  it,  for  God 
has  revealed  it  unto  us,  and  hence  we  can  rejoice  in  the  midst  of  ca- 
lamities that  would  make  our  enemies  very  cross,  and  cause  them  to 
swear  about  their  troubles.  Nine  tenths  of  those  who  have  aposta- 
tized have  done  it  on  account  of  prosperity,  like  Israel  of  old,  but  the 
Lord  desires  to  use  us  for  the  advancement  of  his  kingdom,  and  the 
spreading  abroad  of  light  and  truth.  We  should  live  for  God,  and 
prepare  ourselves  for  all  the  temporal  and  spiritual  blessings  of  his 
kingdom. 

"  President  Brigham  Young  said  if  our  heavenly  Father  could  re- 
veal all  he  wishes  to  his  Saints,  it  would  greatly  hasten  their  perfec- 
tion, and  asked  the  question.  Are  the  people  prepared  to  receive  those 
communications  and  profit  by  them,  that  would  bring  about  their 
speedy  perfection  ?  He  discovered  a  very  great  variety  of  degrees 
of  intelligence  in  the  people ;  he  also  observed  a  manifest  stupidity  in 
the  people  attempting  to  learn  the  principles  of  natural  life.  Ob- 
served that  God  IS  just  and  equal  in  his  ways,  and  that  no  man  will 
dare  to  dispute ;  also  that  there  is  no  man  in  our  government  who 
will  speak  truthfully,  and  according  to  his  honest  convictions,  but  who 
will  admit  that  we  are  the  most  law-abiding  people  within  its  juris- 
diction. Remarked  that  all  the  heathen  nations  have  devotional  in- 
stincts, and  none  more  than  the  natives  of  this  vast  continent ;  and 
they  all  worship  according  to  the  best  of  their  knowledge.  The 
whole  human  family  can  be  saved  in  the  kingdom  of  God  if  they  are 
disposed  to  receive  and  obey  the  Gospel.  Iteasoned  on  the  subject 
of  lore-ordination,  and  said  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ  is  designed  to 
mtike  the  bad  good  and  the  good  better.  Argued  that  there  is  a  feel- 
ing in  every  human  breast  to  acknowledge  the  supremacy  of  the  Al- 
mighty Creator.  God  is  just,  he  is  true,  and  if  this  were  not  the  case 
no  mortal  oould  bo  exalted  in  his  presence ;  advised  all  to  improve 
upon  the  knowledge  they  had  received  of  the  things  of  God.  liefer- 
red  briefly  to  the  birth  of  Christ,  and  the  attendant  opposition  and 
threatening  of  the  governments  of  the  nations  of  the  earth. 

"  President  Heber  C.  Kimball  followed  with  appropriate  remarks 
on  the  practical  duties  of  life,  the  necessity  of  humility  and  faithful- 
ness among  the  Saints,  and  admonished  all  to  be  obedient  to  the  man- 


Chap.  V. 


ME.  BRIGHAM  YOUNG'S  SERMON. 


265 


dates  of  heaven,  and  to  the  counsels  of  the  Uving  oracles.  In  giving 
advice  to  the  elders  who  are  expected  to  go  on  missions  to  preach 
the  Gospel,  he  said :  'The  commandment  of  Jesus  to  his  apostles  an- 
ciently has  been  renewed  unto  us,  viz..  Go  ye  therefore,  and  teach  all 
nations,  baptizingthem  in  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of  the  Son,  and 
of  the  Holy  GhoOT;  teaching  them  to  observe  all  things  whatsoever 
I  have  commanded  you ;  and  lo,  I  am  with  you  alway,  even  unto  the 
end  of  the  world.'  " 

The  student  of  the  subject  may  desire  to  see  how  one  of  these 
sermons  reads;  I  therefore  extract  from  the  "Deseret  News"  one 
spoken  by  Mr.  Brigham  Young  during  my  stay  in  the  city;  it  is 
cnosen  impartially,  neither  because  it  is  better  nor  because  it  is 
worse  than  its  fellows.  The  subject,  it  will  be  observed,  is  unin- 
teresting ;  in  fact,  what  negroes  call  "  talkee-talkee"— jsowr  passer 
h  temps.  But  Mr.  Brigham  Young  can,  all  admit,  when  occasion 
serves  ability,  "bring  the  house  down,"  and  elicit  thundering 
amens. 

Remarks  by  President  Brigham  Young,  Bowery,  A.M.,  August 
12, 1860.  {Reported  by  O.  B.  Watt.)—''  I  fully  understand  that  all 
Saints  constantly,  so  to  speak,  pray  for  each  other.  And  when  I  find 
a  person  who  does  not  pray  for  the  welfare  of  the  kingdom  of  God 
on  the  earth,  and  for  the  honest  in  heart,  I  am  skeptical  in  regard  to 
believing  that  person's  religion  to  be  genuine,  and  his  faith  I  should 
consider  not  the  faith  of  Jesus.  Those  who  have  the  mind  of  Christ 
are  anxious  that  it  should  spread  extensively  among  the  people,  to 
bring  them  to  a  correct  understanding  of  things  as  they  are,  that  they 
may  be  able  to  i)repare  themselves  to  dwell  eternally  in  the  heavens. 
This  is  your  desire,  and  is  what  we  continually  pray  for. 

"  Brother  J.  V.  Long's  discourse  this  morning  was  sweet  to  my 
taste ;  and  the  remarks  of  Brother  T.  B.  H.  Stenhouse  were  very  con- 
genial to  my  feelings  and  understanding.  Brother  Long  has  good 
command  of  language,  and  can  readily  choose  such  words  as  best  suit 
him  to  convey  his  ideas. 

"  Brother  Stenhouse  remarked  that  the  Gospel  of  salvation  is  the 
great  foundation  of  this  kingdom ;  that  we  have  not  built  up  this 
kingdom,  nor  established  this  organization,  we  have  merely  embraced 
It  in  our  faith ;  that  God  has  established  this  kingdom,  and  has  be- 
stowed the  priesthood  upon  the  children  of  men,  and  has  called  upon 
the  inhabitants  of  the  earth  to  receive  it,  to  repent  of  their  sins,  and 
return  to  him  with  all  their  hearts.  This  portion  of  his  remarks  I 
wish  you  particularly  to  treasure  up. 

"  If  the  Angel  Gabriel  were  to  descend  and  stand  before  you, 
though  he  said  not  a  word,  the  influence  and  power  that  M'ould  pro- 
ceed from  him,  were  ho  to  look  upon  you  in  tne  power  he  possesses, 
would  melt  this  congregation.  His  eyes  would  be  like  flaming  fire, 
and  his  countenance  would  bo  like  the  sun  at  midday.  The  counte- 
nance of  an  holy  angel  would  tell  more  than  all  the  language  in  the 
world.  If  men  who  arc  called  to  speak  before  a  congregation  rise 
full  of  the  Holy  Spirit  and  power  of  God,  their  countenances  are  ser- 
mons to  the  people.    But  if  their  affbctions,  feelings,  and  desires  are 


266 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.V. 


like  the  fool's  eye  to  the  ends  of  tlie  earth,  looking  for  this,  that,  and 
the  other,  and  the  kingdom  of  God  is  far  from  them  and  not  in  all 
their  affections,  they  may  rise  here  and  talk  what  they  please,  and  it 
is  but  like  sounding  brass  or  a  tinkling  cymbal— mere  empty,  un- 
meaning sounds  to  the  ears  of  the  people.  I  can  not  say  this  of  what 
I  have  heard  to-day. 

"  Those  faithful  elders  who  have  testified  of  this  work  to  thousands 
of  people  on  the  continents  and  islands  of  the  sea  will  see  the  fruits 
of  their  labors,  whether  they  have  said  five  words  or  thousands.  They 
may  not  see  these  fruits  immediately,  and  perhaps  in  many  cases  not 
until  the  millennium,  but  the  savor  of  their  testimony  will  pass  down 
from  father  to  son.  Children  will  say, '  The  words  of  life  were  spoken 
to  my  grandfather  and  grandmother ;  they  told  me  of  them,  and  I 
wish  to  become  a  member  of  the  Church ;  I  also  wish  to  be  baptized 
for  my  father,  and  mother,  and  grandparents ;'  and  they  will  come 
and  keep  coming,  the  living  and  the  dead,  and  you  will  be  satisfied 
with  your  labors,  whether  they  have  been  much  or  little,  if  you  con- 
tinue faithful. 

"Brother  Long  remarked  that  before  he  gathered  to  Zion  he  had 
imbibed  an  idea  that  the  people  were  all  pure  here.  This  is  a  day  of 
trial  for  you.  If  there  is  any  thing  that  should  give  us  sorrow  and 
pain,  it  is  that  any  of  the  brethren  and  sisters  come  here  and  neglect 
to  live  their  religion.  Some  are  greedy,  covetous,  and  selfish,  and 
give  way  to  temptation ;  they  are  wicked  and  dishonest  in  their  deal- 
ings with  one  another,  and  look  at  and  magnify  the  faults  of  every 
body,  on  the  right  and  on  the  left.  '  Such  a  sister  is  guilty  of  pilfer- 
ing; sv.oh  a  brother  is  guilty  of  swearing,'  etc.,  'and  we  have  come 
a  long  distance  to  be  joined  with  such  a  set :  wo  do  not  care  a  dime 
for  "  Mormonism,"  nor  for  any  thing  else.'  The  enemy  takes  the  ad- 
vantage of  such  persons,  and  leads  them  to  do  that  for  which  they 
are  afterward  sorry.  This  is  a  matter  of  great  regret  to  those  who 
wish  to  be  faithful.  But  no  matter  how  many  give  themselves  up  to 
merchandising  and  love  it  better  than  their  God,  how  many  go  to  the 
gold  mines,  how  many  go  back  on  the  road  to  trade  with  the  wick- 
ed, nor  how  many  take  their  neighbors'  wood  after  it  is  cut  and  piled 
up  in  the  kanyons,  or  steal  their  neighbors'  axes,  or  any  thing  that  is 
their  neighbors',  you  live  your  religion,  and  we  shall  see  the  day 
when  w^e  shall  tread  iniquity  under  foot.  But  if  you  listen  to  those 
who  practice  iniquity,  you  will  be  carried  away  by  it,  as  it  has  carried 
away  thousands.  Let  every  one  get  a  knowledge  for  himself  that 
this  work  is  true.  We  do  not  want  you  to  say  that  it  is  true  until 
you  know  that  it  is ;  and  if  you  know  it,  that  knowledge  is  as  good 
to  you  as  though  the  Lord  came  down  and  told  you.  Then  let  every 
person  say, '  I  will  live  my  religion,  though  every  other  person  goes 
to  hell ;  I  will  walk  humbly  before  God,  and  deal  honestly  with  my 
fellow-beings.'  There  are  now  scores  of  thousands  in  this  Territory 
who  will  do  this,  and  who  feel  as  I  do  on  this  subject,  and  we  will 
overcome  the  wicked.  Ten  filthy,  dirty  sheep  in  a  thousand  causo 
the  whole  fiock  to  appear  defiled,  and  a  stranger  would  pronounce 
them  all  filthy ;  but  wash  them,  and  you  will  find  nine  himdred  and 
ninety  pure  and  clean.    It  is  so  with  this  people ;  half  a  dozen  horse- 


Chap.  V. 


ME.  BRIGHAM  YOUNG'S  SERMON. 


267 


thieves  tend  to  cause  the  whole  community  to  appear  comipt  in  the 
eyes  of  a  casual  observer. 

"  Brother  Long  said  that  the  Lord  will  deal  out  correction  to  the 
evil-doer,  but  that  he  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  it.  I  do  not 
know  whether  I  shall  or  not,  but  I  shall  not  ask  the  Lord  to  do  what 
I  am  not  willing  to  do ;  and  I  do  not  think  that  Brother  Long  is  any 
more  or  less  ready  to  do  so  than  I  am.  Ask  any  earthly  king  to  do 
a  work  that  you  would  not  do,  and  he  would  be  insulted.  Were  I 
to  ask  the  Lord  to  free  us  from  ungodly  wretches,  and  not  lend  my 
influence  and  assistance,  he  would  look  upon  me  differently  to  what 
he  now  does. 

"  You  have  read  that  I  had  an  agent  in  China  to  mix  poison  with 
the  tea  to  kill  all  the  nations ;  that  I  was  at  the  head  of  the  Vigilance 
Committee  in  California ;  that  I  managed  the  troubles  in  Kansas, 
from  the  beginning  to  the  end ;  that  there  is  not  a  liquor-shop  or  dis- 
tillery but  what  Brigham  Young  dictates  it :  so  state  the  newspapers. 
In  these  and  all  other  accusations  of  evil-doing  I  defy  them  to  pro- 
duce the  first  show  of  evidence  against  me.  It  is  also  asserted  that 
President  Buchanan  and  myself  concocted  the  plan  for  the  army  to 
come  here,  with  a  view  to  make  money.  By-and-by  the  poor  wretch- 
es will  come  bending  and  say, '  I  wish  I  was  a  "  Mormon." '  All  the 
army,  with  its  teamsters,  hangers-on,  and  followers,  with  the  judges, 
and  nearly  all  the  rest  of  the  civil  officers,  amounting  to  some  seven- 
teen thousand  men,  have  been  searching  diligently  for  three  years  to 
bring  one  act  to  light  that  would  criminate  me ;  but  they  have  not 
been  able  to  trace  out  one  thread  or  one  particle  of  evidence  that 
would  criminate  me ;  do  you  know  why  ?  Because  I  walk  humbly 
with  my  God,  and  do  right  so  far  as  I  know  how.  I  do  no  evil  to 
any  one ;  and  as  long  as  I  can  have  faith  in  the  name  of  the  Lord  Je- 
sus Christ  to  hinder  the  wolves  from  tearing  the  sheep  and  devour- 
ing them,  v/ithout  putting  forth  ray  hand,  I  shall  do  so. 

"  I  can  say  honestly  and  truly  before  God,  and  the  holy  angels  and 
all  men,  that  not  one  act  of  murder  or  disorder  has  occurred  in  this 
city  or  Territory  that  I  had  any  knowledge  of,  any  more  than  a  babe 
a  week  old,  until  after  the  event  has  transpired ;  that  is  the  reason 
they  can  not  trace  any  crime  to  me.  If  I  have  faith  enough  to  cause 
the  devils  to  eat  up  the  devils,  like  the  Kilkenny  cats,  I  shall  certainly 
exercise  it.  Joseph  Smith  said  that  they  would  eat  each  other  up  as 
did  those  cats.  They  will  do  so  here,  and  throughout  the  world. 
The  nations  will  consume  each  other,  and  the  Lord  will  suffer  them 
to  bring  it  about.  It  does  not  recjuire  much  talent  or  tact  to  get  up 
opposition  in  these  days ;  you  see  it  rife  in  communities,  in  meetings, 
in  neighborhoods,  and  in  cities ;  that  is  the  knife  that  will  cut  down 
this  government.  The  axe  is  laid  at  the  root  of  the  tree,  and  every 
tree  that  bringeth  not  forth  good  fruit  will  be  hewn  down. 

"  Out  of  this  Church  will  grow  the  kingdom  which  Daniel  saw. 
This  is  the  very  people  that  Daniel  saw  would  continue  to  grow,  and 
spread,  and  prosper ;  and  if  we  are  not  faithful,  others  will  take  our 
places,  for  this  is  the  Church  and  people  that  will  possess  the  king- 
dom forever  and  ever.  Will  we  do  this  in  our  present  condition  as 
a  people  ?    No ;  for  we  must  be  pure  and  holy,  and  be  prepared  for 


if 


1  }    >i'-tl 


f    , 


^i;'.; 


m 


268 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.V. 


) 


the  presence  of  our  Savior  and  God,  in  order  to  possess  the  kingdom. 
Selfishness,  wickedness,  bickering,  tattling,  lying,  and  dishonesty  must 
depart  from  the  people  before  they  are  prepared  for  the  Savior ;  we 
must  sanctify  ourselves  before  our  God. 

"  I  wanted  to  ask  Brother  Long  a  question  this  morning — what  he 
had  learned  in  regard  to  the  original  sin.  Let  the  elders,  who  like 
speculation,  find  out  what  it  is,  if  they  can,  and  inform  us  next  Sab- 
bath ;  or,  if  you  have  any  thing  else  that  is  good,  bring  it  along.  I 
wish  to  impress  upon  your  minds  to  live  your  religion,  and,  when  you 
come  to  this  stand  to  speak,  not  to  care  whether  you  say  five  words 
or  five  thousand,  but  to  come  with  the  power  of  God  upon  you,  and 
you  will  comfort  the  hearts  of  the  Saints.  All  the  sophistry  in  the 
Avorld  will  do  no  good.  If  you  live  your  religion,  you  will  live  with 
the  Spirit  of  Zion  within  you,  and  will  try,  by  every  lawful  means,  to 
induce  your  neighbors  to  live  their  religion.  In  this  way  we  will  re- 
deem Zion,  and  cleanse  it  from  sin. 

"  God  bless  you.    Amen." 

The  gift  of  unknown  tongues — whicli  is  made  by  some  physi- 
ologists the  result  of  an  affection  of  the  epigastric  region,  and  by 
others  an  abnormal  action  of  the  organ  of  language — is  now  ap- 
parently rarer  than  before.  Anti-Mormon  writers  thus  imitate 
the  "  blatant  gibberish"  which  they  derive  directly  from  Irving- 
ism:  "Eli,  ele,  elo,  ela — come,  coma,  como — reli,  rele,  rela,  relo 
— sela,  selo,  sele,  selum — vavo,  vava,  varum — sero,  seri,  sera,  se- 
rum." Lieutenant  Gunnison  relates*  a  facetious  story  concerning 
a  waggish  youth,  who,  after  that  a  woman  had  sprung  up  and 
spoken  "in  tongues"  as  follows,  "Mela,  meli,  melee,"  sorely  press- 
ed by  the  "  gift  of  interpretation  of  tongues,"  translated  the  sen- 
tence into  the  vernacular,  "  My  leg,  my  thigh,  my  knee."  For 
this  he  was  called  before  the  Council,  but  he  stoutly  persisted  in 
his  "interpretation"  being  "by  the  Spirit,"  and  they  dismissed 
him  with  admonition.  Gentiles  have  observed  that  whatever  may 
be  uttered  "  in  tongues,"  it  is  always  translated  into  very  intelli- 
gible English. 

That  evening,  when  dining  out,  I  took  a  lesson  in  Mormon  mod- 
esty. The  mistress  of  the  house,  a  Gentile,  but  not  an  anti- Mor- 
mon, was  requested  by  a  saintly  visitor,  who  was  also  a  widow,  to 
instruct  me  that  on  no  account  must  I  propose  to  see  her  home. 
"  Mormon  ladies,"  said  my  kind  informant,  "  are  very  strict ;"  un- 
necessarily so  on  this  occasion,  I  could  not  but  think.  Something 
similar  occurred  on  another  occasion :  a  very  old  lady,  wishing  to 
return  home,  surreptitiously  left  the  room  and  sidled  out  of  the 
garden  gate,  and  my  companion,  an  officer  from  Camp  Floyd,  at 
once  recognized  the  object  of  the  retreat.  I  afterward  learned  at 
dinner  and  elsewhere  among  the  Mormons  to  abjure  the  Gentile 

Eractice  of  giving  precedence  to  that  sex  than  which,  according  to 
latin  grammar,  the  masculine  is  nobler.    The  lesson,  however, 

•  The  Mormons.     Chap.vi.     Social  Condition. 


Chap.  V. 


MR.  STAINES.— ADOPTION,— FRUIT. 


269 


was  not  new ;  I  had  been  taught  the  same,  in  times  past,  among 
certain  German  missionaries  who  assumed  precedence  over  their 
wives  upon  a  principle  borrowed  from  St.  rauh 

I  took  the  earliest  opportunity  of  visiting,  at  his  invitation,  the 
Prophet's  gardens.  Tiie  grounds  were  laid  out  by  Mr.  W.  0. 
Staines,  now  on  Church  business  in  London.*  Mr.  Staines  ar- 
rived at  Great  Salt  Lake  City  an  exceptionally  poor  emigrant,  and 
is  now  a  rich  man,  with  house  and  farm,  all  the  proceeds  of  his 
own  industry.  This  and  many  other  instances  which  I  could 
quote  prove  that  although,  as  a  rule,  the  highest  dignitaries  are 
the  wealthiest,  and  although  the  polygamist  can  not  expect  to  keep 
a  large  family  and  fill  at  the  same  time  a  long  purse,  the  Gen- 
tiles somewhat  exaggerate  when  they  represent  that  Church  dis- 
cipline keeps  the  lower  orders  in  a  state  of  pauperdom.  Mr. 
Staines  is  also  the  "  son  of '  Brighani'  by  adoption."  This  custom 
is  prevalent  among  the  Mormons  as  among  tne  Hind'^os,  but  with 
this  difference,  that  while  the  latter  use  it  when  childless,  the  for- 
mer employ  it  as  the  means  of  increasing  their  glory  in  the  next 
world.  The  relationship  is  truly  one  of  parent  and  child,  by 
choice,  not  only  by  the  mere  accident  of  birth,  and  the  "son,"  if 
necessary,  lives  with  and  receives  the  necessaries  of  life  from  his 
"  father."  Before  entering  the  garden  we  were  joined  by  Mr. 
Mercer,  who,  long  after  my  departure  from  India,  had  missiona- 
rized  at  Kurrachee  in  "  Scinde,  or  the  Unhappy  Valley." 

The  May  frost  had  injured  the  fruit.  Grapes  were  but  quarter- 
grown,  while  winter  was  fast  approaching.  I  suggested  to  the 
civil  and  obliging  English  gardener  that  it  would  be  well  to  garn- 
ish the  trellised  walls,  as  is  done  in  Tuscany,  with  mats  which  roll 
up  and  can  be  let  down  at  night.  Bacchus  appeared  in  three 
forms:  the  California  grape,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  Madeira 
introduced  into  the  New  World  by  the  Franciscan  Missions ;  the 
Catawba — so  called  from  an  Indian  people  on  a  river  of  the  same 
name  —  a  cultivated  variety  of  the  Vitis  hbrusca,  r,nd  still  the 
wine-grape  in  the  States.  The  third  is  the  inferior  Isr.bolla,  named 
after  his  wife  by  "  ole  man  Gibbs,"f  who  first  attempted  to  civil- 
ize the  fox-grape  ( Vitis  vulpina),  growing  on  banks  of  streams  in 
most  of  the  temperate  states.  A  vineyard  is  now  being  planted 
on  the  hill-side  near  Mr.  Brigham  Young's  block,  and  home-made 
wine  will  soon  become  an  item  of  produce  in  Utah.  Pomology  is 
carefully  cultivated ;  about  one  hundred  varieties  of  apples  have 
been  imported,  and  of  these  ninety-one  are  found  to  thrive  as  seed- 
lings :  in  good  seasons  their  branches  are  bowed  down  by  fruit, 
and  must  be  propped  up,  or  they  will  break  under  their  load. 
The  peaches  were  in  all  cases  unpruned :  upon  this  important 

♦  1  havo  to  thank  Mr.  Staines  for  kind  assistance  in  supplying  mo  with  necessary 
items  of  information. 

t  Similarly,  the  Constuntia  of  the  Capo  was  named  after  Madam  Van  Stell,  the 
wife  of  the  governor. 


■^ykjlyA^I 

■■PHl! 

,i,  A. 

1 

* 

1   i:;!t 

i 

•"1  IS 

;  H , 


270 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.V. 


point  opinions  are  greatly  divided.  The  people  generally  believe 
that  the  foliage  is  a  protection  to  the  fruit  during  the  spring  frosts. 
The  horticulturists  declare  that  the  "extremes  of  temperature  ren- 
der proper  prumng  even  more  necessary  than  in  France,  and  that 
th^i  fervid  summers  often  induce  a  growth  of  wood  which  must 
suffer  severely  during  the  inclement  months,  unless  checked  and 
hardened  by  cutting  back.  Besides  grapes  and  apples,  there  were 
walnuts,  apricots  and  quinces,  cherries  and  plums,  currants,  rasp- 
berries, and  gooseberries.  The  principal  vegetables  were  the  Irish 
and  the  sweet  potato,  squashes,  peas — excellent — cabbages,  beets, 
cauliflowers,  lettuce,  and  broccoli ;  a  little  rhubarb  is  cultivated, 
but  it  requires  too  much  expensive  sugar  for  general  use,  and 
white  celery  has  lately  been  introduced.  Leaving  the  garden, 
we  walked  through  the  various  offices,  oil-mill,  timber-mill,  and 
smithy :  in  the  latter  oxen  are  shod,  according  to  the  custom  of 
the  country,  with  half  shoes.  The  animal  is  raised  from  the 
ground  by  a  broad  leather  band  under  the  belly,  and  is  liable  to 
be  lamed  by  any  but  a  practiced  hand. 

On  the  evening  of  the  3d  of  September,  while  sauntering  about 
the  square  in  which  a  train  of  tventy-three  wagons  had  just  biv- 
ouacked, among  the  many  others  to  whom  Mr.  Staines  introduced 
me  was  the  Apostle  John  Taylor,  the  "Champion  of  Rights," 
Speaker  in  the  House,  and  whilom  editor.  I  had  heard  of  him 
from  the  best  authorities  as  a  man  so  morose  and  averse  to  Gen- 
tiles, "  who  made  the  healing  virtue  depart  out  of  him,"  that  it 
would  be  fdvisable  to  avoid  his  "fierceness."  The  verklique  Mr. 
Austin  Ward  describes  him  as  "  an  old  man  deformed  and  crip- 
pled," and  Mrs.  Ferris  as  a  "heavy,  dark-colored,  beetle-browed 
man."  Of  course,  I  could  not  recognize  him  from  these  descrip- 
tions— a  stout,  good-looking,  somewhat  elderly  personage,  with  a 
kindly  gray  eye,  pleasant  expression,  and  a  forenead  of  the  supe- 
rior order;  he  talked  of  Westmoreland  his  birthplace,  and  of  uis 
European  travels  for  a  time,  till  the  subject  of  Uarthago  coming 
upon  the  tapis,  I  suspected  who  my  interlocutor  was.  Mr.  Staines 
burst  out  laughing  when  he  heard  my  mistake,  and  I  explained 
the  reason  to  the  apostle,  who  laughed  as  heartily.  Wisning  to 
aee  more  of  him,  I  accompanied  him  in  the  carriage  to  the  Sugar- 
house  Ward,  where  ho  was  bound  on  business,  and  chnnin  faisant 
we  had  a  long  talk.  lie  pointed  out  to  me  on  the  left  the  mouths 
of  the  several  kanyons,  and  informed  me  that  the  City  Creek  and 
the  Red  Buttes  on  the  northeast,  and  the  Emigration,  I'arley's. 
Mill  Creek,  Great  Cotton-vrood  and  Little  Cotton-wood  Kanyons 
to  the  cast  and  southeast,  all  head  together  in  two  points,  thus  en- 
abling troops  and  provisions  to  be  easily  and  readily  concentrattMl 
for  the  defense  of  the  eastern  approaches.  When  talking  about 
the  probability  of  gold  digging  being  devflojied  near  Great  Salt 
Lake  City,  lie  said  that  the  Mormons  are  aware  of  that,  but  that 
thev  look  unon  oirriculturo  aa  their  real  wealth.     The  Gentiles. 


CttAP.V 


THE  PENITENTIARY. 


271 


however — it  is  curious  that  they  do  not  form  a  company  among 
themselves  for  prospecting — assert  that  the  Church  has  very  rich 
mines,  which  are  guarded  by  those  dragons  of  Danites  more  fierce- 
ly than  the  Hesperidian  Gardens,  and  which  will  never  be  known 
till  Miss  Utah  becomes  Mistress  Deseret.     Arriving  at  the  tall, 
gaunt  Sugar-house  —  its  occupation  is  gone,  while  the  name  re- 
mains— we  examined  the  machinery  employed  in  making  thresh- 
ing and  wool-carding  machines,  flanges,  wheels,  cranks,  and  simi- 
lar necessaries.    After  a  visit  to  a  nail  manufactory  belonging  to 
Squire  Wells,  and  calling  upon  Mrs.  Harris,  we  entered  ihe  Peni- 
tentiary.   It  is  a  somewhat  Oriental-looking  building,  with  a  large 
quadrangle  behind  the  house,  guarded  by  a  wall  with  a  walk  on 
the  sumniit,  and  pepper-caster  sentry-boxes  at  each  angle.    There 
are  cells  in  which  the  convicts  are  shut  up  at  night,  but  one  of 
these  had  lately  been  broken  by  an  Indian,  who  had  cut  his  way 
through  the  wall;  a  Hindoo  "gonnoft*"  would  soon  "pike"  out 
of  a  "premonitory"  like  this.    We  found  in  it  besides  the  guard- 
ians only  six  persons,  of  whom  two  were  Yutas.    When  I  re- 
marked to  Gentiles  how  few  were  the  evidences  of  crime,  they  in- 
variably replied  that,  instead  of  half  a  dozen  souls,  half  the  popu- 
lation ought  to  be  in  the  place.     On  our  return  we  resumed  the 
subject  of  the  massacre  at  Carthage,  in  which  it  will  be  remember- 
ed that  Mr,  John  Taylor  was  severely  wounded,  and  escaped  by  a 
miracle,  as  it  were.     I  told  him  openly  that  there  must  have  been 
some  cause  for  the  fuiious  proceedings  of  the  people  in  Illinois, 
Missouri,  and  other  places  against  the  Latter-Day  Saints ;  that 
oven  those  who  had  extended  hospitality  to  them  ended  by  hating 
and  expelling  them,  and  accusing  them  of  all  possible  iniquities, 
especially  of  horse-thieving,  forgery,  larceny,  and  offenses  against 
property,  which  on  the  borders  are  never  pardoned  —  was  this 
smoke  quite  without  fire  ?    He  heard  me  courteously  and  in  per- 
fect temper ;  replied  that  no  one  claimed  immaculateness  for  the 
Mormons ;  that  the  net  ca.st  into  the  sea  brought  forth  evil  as  well 
as  good  fish,  and  ihat  the  Prophet  was  one  of  the  laborers  sent  into 
the  vineyard  at  the  eleventh  hour.     At  the  same  time,  that  when 
the  New  Faith  was  stoutly  struggling  into  existence,  it  was  the 
object  of  detraction,  odium,  persecution — so,  said  Mr.  Taylor,  were 
the  Christians  in  the  days  of  Nero  — that  the  border  rufilans,  for- 
gers, horse-thieves,  and  other  vile  fellows  followed  the  Mormons 
wherever  they  went ;  and,  finally,  that  every  fraud  and  crime  was 
charged  upon  those  whom  the  populace  were  disposed,  by  desire 
for  confiscation's  sake,  to  believe  guiltv.     Besides  the  theologic 
odium  there  was  also  the  political :  the  Saints  would  vote  for 
their  favorite  candidates,  consequently  they  were  never  without 
enemies.     Ho  quoted  the  Mormon  rules :  1.  Worehip  what  you 
Hke.    2.  licave  your  neif^hl)or  alone.    8.  Vote  for  whom  you 
ploa.so ;  and  compared  tlieir  troubles  to  the  Westtirn,  or,  as  \t  is 
DODularlv  called,  the  Whisky  insurrection  in  1794,  whoso  "dread- 


I 


ti 


1. 


>  I 

'I 


272 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


ful  night"  is  still  remembered  in  Pennsylvania.  Mr.  Taylor  re- 
marked that  the  Saints  had  been  treated  by  the  United  States  as 
the  colonies  had  been  treated  by  the  crown :  that  the  persecuted 
naturally  became  persecutors,  as  the  Pilgrim  fathers,  after  flying 
for  their  faith,  hung  the  Quakers  on  Bloody  Hill  at  Boston ;  and 
that  even  the  Gentiles  can  not  defend  their  own  actions.  I  heard 
for  the  first  time  this  view  of  the  (question,  and  subsequeutly  ob- 
tained from  the  apostle  a  manuscnpt  account,  written  in  extenso, 
of  his  experience  and  his  sufferings.  It  has  been  transferred  in 
its  integrity  to  Appendix  No.  III.,  the  length  forbidding  its  inser- 
tion in  the  text :  a  tone  of  candor,  simplicity,  and  honesty  renders 
it  highly  attractive. 


AMOUNT  LAKI  BBNOU-LAIID, 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Dostriptivo  Geography,  Ethnology,  and  Statistics  of  Utaii  Territory. 

Utah  Territor3r,  so  called  from  ita  Indian  owners,  the  Yuta— 
"those  that  dwell  in  mountains" — is  still,  to  a  certain  extent,  Urra 
incognita,  not  having  yet  been  thoroughly  explored,  much  less 
surveyed  or  settled. 

The  whole  Utah  country  has  boon  acquired,  like  Oregon,  by 
conquest  and  dinlomucy.  By  the  partition  of  184«,  the  iiarallol 
of  N.  lat.  42",  loll  unsettled,  between  the  lloclcv  Mountnins  and 
the  Pacific,  by  the  treaties  of  the  22d  of  Octolxjr,  1818,  nnd  the 
12th  of  February,  1819,  Wiw  prolonged  nortliwunl  to  N.  lat.  49°, 
thus  adding  to  "the  United  States  California,  Oregon,  and  WubU- 


I 


Chap.  VI. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  UTAH  TERRITORY. 


273 


ington,  while  to  Britain  remained  Vancouver's  Island  and  the  joint 
navigation  of  the  Columbia  Ki/er.  Under  the  Hispano- Ameri- 
cans the  actual  Utah  Territory  formed  the  northern  portion  of 
Alta  California,  and  the  peace  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  concluded 
in  1848  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  transferred  it  from 
the  latter  to  the  former. 

The  present  boundaries  of  Utah  Territory  are,  northward  (42° 
N.  lat.),  the  State  of  Oregon ;  and  southward,  a  line  pursuing  the 
parallel  of  N.  lat.  37°,  separating  it  from  New  Mexico  to  the  south- 
east and  from  California  to  the  southwest.  The  eastern  portion 
is  included  between  106°  and  120°  W.  long.  (G.) ;  a  line  follow- 
ing the  crest  of  the  Green  River,  the  Wasach,  the  Bear  Eiver,  and 
other  sections  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  whose  southern  extremi- 
ties anastomose  to  form  the  Sierra  Nevada,  separate  it  from  Ne- 
braska and  Kansas.  On  the  west  it  is  bounded,  between  116° 
and  120°  W.  long.,  by  the  lofty  crest  of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  the 
organization,  however,  of  a  new  territory,  the  "Nevada,"  on  the 
landward  slope  of  the  Snowy  Range,  has  diminished  its  dimen- 
bions  by  about  half.  Utah  had  thus  5°  of  extreme  breadth,  and 
14°  of  total  lengtli ;  it  was  usually  reckoned  650  miles  long  from 
east  to  west,  and  850  broad  from  north  to  south.  The  shape  was 
an  irregular  parallelogram,  of  which  the  area  was  made  to  vary 
from  188,000  to  225,000  square  miles,  almost  the  superficies  of 
France. 

The  surface  configuration  of  Utah  Territory  is  like  Central 
Equatorial  Africa,  a  great  depression  in  a  mountain  land :  a  trough 
elevated  4000  to  5000  feet  above  sea  level,  subtended  on  all  sides 
by  mountains  8000  to  10,000  feet  high,  and  subdivided  by  trans- 
verse ridges.  The  "  Rim  of  the  Ba.sin"  is  an  uncontinuous  line 
formed  by  the  broken  chains  of  Oregon  to  the  north,  and  to  the 
south  by  the  little-known  sub-ranges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains; 
the  latter  also  form  the  eastern  wall,  while  the  Sierra  Nevada 
hems  in  the  west.  Before  the  present  upheaval  of  the  country 
the  Great  Interior  Basin  was  evidently  a  sweetwatcr  inland  sea; 
the  bench  formation,  a  system  of  water-marks,  is  found  in  every 
valley,  while  detached  and  parallel  blocks  of  mountain,  trending 
almost  invariably  north  and  south,  were  in  geological  ages  rock- 
islands  protruding  from  tlie  lake  surfiice  like  those  that  now  break 
the  continuity  of  tlut  "  vast  and  silent  sea"  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
Between  these  primitive  and  metamorphic  ridges  lie  the  secondary 
basins,  whose  average  width  may  bo  15—20  miles ;  they  open  into 
one  another  by  kanyons  and  passes,  and  arc  often  separated  longi- 
tudinally, like  "  waflle-irona,"  by  smaller  divides  running  east  and 
west,  thus  converting  one  extended  strip  of  secondary  into  a  sys- 
tem of  tertiary  valleys.  The  Great  Basin,  which  is  not  less  tlinn 
500  miles  long  by  500  broad,  is  divided  by  two  large  chains,  which 
run  transversely  from  northea'^t  to  southwest.  The  northern- 
most is  the  rangu  of  the  Humboldt  River,  rising  5000 — 6000  feet 


p 

! 

'■?  «       I 

% 

I: 

s. 

' 

5 

i 

i    i              i 

■Mi  Wt^Kt 

■H 

11 

274 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI, 


above  the  sea.  The  southern  is  the  prolongation  of  the  Wasach, 
whose  southwestern  extremity  abuts  upon  the  Pacific  coast  range ; 
it  attains  a  maximum  elevation  of  nearly  12,000  feet.  Without 
these  mountains,  whose  gorges  are  fed  during  the  spring,  and  even, 
in  the  summer,  by  melted  snow,  there  would  be  no  water.  The 
levels  of  the  valleys  are  still  unknown ;  it  is  yet  a  question  how 
far  they  are  u-regular  in  elevation,  whether  they  have  formed  de- 
tached lakes,  or  whether  they  slope  uniformly  and  by  steps  toward 
the  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  other  reservoirs  scattered  at  inlervals 
over  the  country. 

The  water-shed  of  tbc  Basin  is  toward  the  north,  south,  east, 
and  west :  the  affluents  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Colorado  rivers 
carry  off  the  greatest  amount  of  drainage.  One  of  the  geograph- 
ical peculiarities  of  the  Territory  is  the  "  sinking,"  as  it  is  technic- 
ally called,  of  the  rivers.  The  phenomenon  is  occasioned  by  the 
porous  nature  of  the  soil.  The  larger  streams,  like  the  Hum- 
boldt and  the  Carson  rivers,  form  terminating  lakes.  The  small- 
er arc  either  absorbed  by  sand,  or  sink,  like  the  South  African 
fountains,  in  ponds  and  puddles  of  black  mire,  beneath  which  is 
peaty  earth  that  burns  as  if  by  spontaneous  combustion,  and 
smoulders  for  a  long  time  in  dry  weather :  the  waters  either  re- 
appear, or,  escaping  under  the  surface— a  notable  instance  of  the 
"subterranean  river"  —  food  the  greater  drains  and  the  lakes. 
The  potamology  is  more  curious  than  useful ;  the  streams,  being 
unnavigable,  play  no  important  part  in  the  scheme  of  economy. 

Utah  Territory  is  well  piuvidcd  witli  lakes ;  of  these  are  two 
nearly  parallel  chains  extending  across  the  country.  The  east- 
ernmost begins  at  the  north,  with  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  small 
tarns  of  the  "Wasach,  the  Utah,  or  Sweetwater  Reservoir,  the  Ni- 
collet, and  the  Little  Suit  Lake,  complete  the  line  which  is  fed  by 
the  streams  that  flow  from  the  western  counterslope  of  the  Wa- 
sach. The  other  chain  is  the  drainage  collected  from  the  eastern 
slope  of  tlie  Sierra  Nevada ;  it  consists  of  Mud,  Pyramid,  Carson, 
Mono,  and  Walker's  lakes.  Of  these,  Pyramid  Lake,  so  called  by 
Colonel  Fremont,  its  explorer,  from  a  singular  rock  in  the  centre, 
is  the  most  beautiful  — a  transparent  water,  700  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  walled  in  by  precipices  nearly 
8000  feet  high.  ,     „ 

The  principal  thermal  features  of  Utah  Territory  are  the  Bear 
Springs,  near  the  Fort  Hall  Koad.  The  Harrowgate  Springs, 
near  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  have  already  been  alluded  to.  Be- 
tween the  city  and  Bear  River  there  is  a  fountain  of  strong  brine, 
described  as  discharging  a  large  volume  of  water.  There  arc 
sulphurous  pools  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
Valley.  Others  are  chalybeate,  coating  the  cartii  and  the  rocks 
with  oxi('j  of  iron.  Almost  every  valley  has  some  thermal 
spring,  in  which  various  confervna  iflourish;  the  difficulty  is  to 
find  cood  cold  water. 


Chap.  VI.  CLIMATE  OF  UTAH  TERRITORY.  275 

Another  curious  geographical  peculiarity  of  th  !  Territory  is 
the  formation  of  the  mountains.  For  the  most  part  the  ridges 
instead  of  presenting  regular  slopes,  more  or  less  inclined  are 
formed  of  short  but  acute  angular  cappings  superimposed  upon 
Hatter  prisms.  It  often  happens  that  after  easily  ascending  two 
thirds  from  the  base,  the  upper  part  suddenly  becomes  wall-like 
and  insurmountable. 

Utah  Territory  is  situated  in  the  parallel  of  the  Mediterranean ; 
the  southern  boundary  corre^onds  with  the  provinces  along  the 
Amoor  lately  acquired  by  Eussia,  and  with  Tasmania  in  the 
southern  hemisphere.  But  the  elevation,  that  grand  modifier  of 
climate,  renders  it  bleak  and  liable  to  great  vicissitudes  of  tem- 
perature. The  lowest  valley  rises  4000  feet  above  sea  level ;  the 
mountains  behind  Great  Salt  Lake  City  are  6000  feet  high ;  Mount 
Nebo  is  marked  8000,  and  the  Twin  Peaks,  that  look  upon  the 
"  Happy  Valley/'  were  ascertained  barometrically  by  Messrs.  O. 
Pratt  and  A.  Carrington  to  be  11,660  feet  in  height:  in  the  west- 
ern part  of  the  Territory  the  Sierra  Nevada  averages  2000  feet 
above  the  South  Pass,  and  it  has  peaks  that  tower  thousands  of 
feet  above  that  altitude.  These  snowy  masses,  in  whose  valleys 
thaw  is  seldom  known,  exercise  a  material  effect  upon  the  climate, 
and  cause  the  cultivator  to  wage  fierce  war  with  the  soil.  The 
air  is  highly  rarefied  by  its  altitude.  Captain  Stansbury's  baro- 
metrical observations  for  May,  June,  July,  and  August,  give  as  a 
maximum  27'80  at  9  A.M.  on  the  4th  of  August,  and  minimum 
22-86  at  sunrise  on  the  19th  of  June,  with  a  general  range  be- 
tween 25°  and  26°.  New-comers  suffer  from  difficulty  of  breath- 
ing ;  often  after  suddcu  and  severe  exercise,  climbing,  or  running, 
the  efibct  is  like  the  nausea,  sickness,  and  fainting  experienced 
upon  Mont  Blanc  and  in  Tibet ;  even  horses  feel  it,  and  must 
pass  two  or  three  months  before  they  arc  acclimatized.* 

♦  Subjoined  is  an  abstract  of  meteorology  kindly  forwarded  to  mo  by  JndKO 
I'helps : 

«r.  o  T1U    r  1,      J       .  .        "OfPftt  Salt  Uko  City,  rteh,  Oct.  24li.,  1800. 

Uear  Hin, —  I  ho  followinR  is  nn  nbstrnct  of  meteorological  observations  for  the 
past  year,  from  October,  1859,  to  October,  18G0,  inclusive: 

Yearly  mean  of  biuometcr 25'86S 

Highest  rnngo 26-550 

Lowest  range 25'205 

Thermometer  attached  (mean) 60" 

Thermometer  (open  air)    "     71o 

Thermometer,  dry  bnlb      "     64" 

Thermometer,  wet  bulb     "     68" 

(All  Fahrenheit.) 

"The  amount  of  fair  days,  244.  The  remaining  121  were  31  stormy  and  tho  res- 
idue cloudy  and  fogpy. 

"The  course  of  tho  wind  more  than  two  thirds  of  tho  year  goes  round  daily  with 
tho  sun  ;  strongest  wind  south ;  worst  for  stock,  north. 

"Highest  ro^igo  of  tho  thermometer,  OC  In  July;  lowest  range  in  December— 
22°  Ix-low  0. 

*''l^hn  A:nniinl  nf  an nur  ami  ruin  \uait^w>  wna  10l>OR7    i^ltt*V  I-  ^^m^^.^1.^^  .» %  f ^ 

^.„ „^_.    ..—  ,«.  ^,?f  J  WiiKu  io  av^mcTTiiat  uTcr  i  luul. 


t    .41 


276 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


The  climate  of  the  Basin  has  been  compared  with  that  of  the 
Tartar  plains  of  High  Asia.  Spring  opens  in  the  valleys  with 
great  suddenness ;  all  is  bloom  and  beauty  below,  while  the  snow- 
line creeps  lingeringly  up  the  mountain  side,  and  does  not  disap- 
pear till  the  middle  of  June.  Thus  there  are  but  three  months 
of  warmth  in  the  high  lands ;  the  low  lands  have  four,  begmning 
with  a  May-day  like  that  of  England.  At  the  equmoxes,  both 
vernal  and  autumnal,  there  are  rains  in  the  bottoms,  which  in  the 
upper  levels  become  sleet  or  snow.  Between  April  and  October 
showers  are  rare ;  there  are,  however,  exceptions,  heavy  down- 
falls, with  thunder,  lightning,  and  hail.  "  Clouds  without  water" 
is  a'proverbial  expression ;  a  dark,  heavy  pall,  which  in  wood- 
land countries  would  burst  with  its  weight,  here  sails  over  the 
arid,  sun-parched  surface,  and  discharges  its  watery  stores  in  the 
kanyons  and  upon  the  mountains.  During  the  first  few  years 
after  the  arrival  of  the  Saints  there  was.  little  rain  either  in  spring 
or  autumn;  in  1860  it  extended  to  the  middle  of  June.  The 
change  may  be  attributed  to  cultivation  and  plantation;  thus 
also  may  be  explained  the  North  American  Indian's  saying  that 
the  palc-facc  brings  with  him  his  rain.  The  same  has  been  ob- 
served in  Kansas  and  New  Mexico,  and  is  equally  remarked  bv 
the  natives  of  Cairo,  the  Aden  Coal-hole,  and  Kurrachee.  Seed- 
time lasts  from  April  to  the  10th  of  June. 

The  summer  is  hot,  but  the  lightness  and  the  aridity  of  the  air 
prevent  its  being  unwholesome.  During  my  visit  the  thermom- 
eter (F.)  placed  in  a  room  with  open  windows  showed  at  dawn 
G3_(j6'^;  at  noon,  75°  ;  and  at  sunset,  70°:  the  greatest  midday 
heat  was  105°.  The  morning  and  evenings,  cooled  bv  breezes 
from  the  mountains,  were  dcliciously  soft  and  pure.  Ihe  abun- 
dant electricity  was  proved,  as  in  Sindh  and  Arabia,  by  frequent 
devils  or  dust-pillars,  like  huge  columns  of  volcanic  smoke,  that 
careered  over  the  miraged  plains,  violently  excited  where  they 
touched  the  negative  earth,  and  calm  in  the  positive  strata  of  the 
upper  air,  whence  their  floanng  particles  were  precipitated.  Dust- 
storms  and  thunder-storms  arc  frequent  and  severe.  Clouds  often 
gather  upon  the  peaks,  and  a  hcavv  black  nimbus  rises  behind 
the  Wasach  wall,  setting  off"  its  brilliant  sunlit  side,  but  there  is 
seldom  rain.  Showers  are  preceded,  as  in  Eastern  Africa,  by 
puffs  and  gusts  of  cold  air,  and  arc  expected  in  Great  Salt  Tiake 
City  when  the  clouds  come  from  the  west  and  southwest,  oppo- 
site and  over  the  "  Black  Rock ;"  otherwise  they  will  cling  to 
the  hills.  Even  in  the  hottest  weather,  a  cold  continuous  wind, 
as  from  the  nozzle  of  a  forge -bellows,  pours  down  the  deep  damp 

"All  the  snow  in  tho  Vftlley  was  Icfw  than  8  foct,  while  perhaps  in  the  mountains 
it  was  more  than  10  feet,  which  Rives  ample  water  for  irrigation. 
•'The  weather  during  the  year  was  steady,  without  extremes. 
"Such  was  Utah  in  18C0. 

'■  ncapctuuiij',  X  iinrc  tiic  iivDyi  iO  in-,  e*Vi|  


Chap.  VI. 


CLIMATE  OP  UTAH  TERRITORY. 


277 


kanyons,  where  the  snow  lingers,  and  travelers,  especially  at  night, 
prepare  to  pass  across  the  ravine  mouths  with  blankets  and  warm 
clothing,  where  the  federal  troops  encamped  on  the  stony  bench 
opposite  the  Provo  Kanyon,  it  was  truly  predicted  that  they 
would  soon  be  blown  odt.  When  summer  is  protracted,  severe 
droughts  are  the  result.  Harvest-time  is  in  the  beginning  of 
July. 

About  early  September  the  heat  ends.  In  1860,  the  first  snow 
fell  upon  the  Twm  Peaks  and  their  neighborhood  on  the  12th 
of  September.  Rains  then  usually  set  in  for  a  fortnight  or  three 
weeks,  and  mild  weather  often  lasts  till  the  end  of  October.  No- 
vember is  partially  a  fine  month ;  after  two  or  three  snowy  days, 
the  Indian  summer  ushers  in  the  most  enjoyable  weather  of  the 
year,  which,  when  short,  ends  about  the  middle  of  November. 

Winter  has  three  very  severe  months,  reckoned  from  Decem- 
ber. Icy  winds  blow  hard,  and  gales  are  sometimes  so  high  that 
spray  is  carried  from  the  Great  Salt  Lake  to  the  City,  a  distance 
of  10 — 12  miles.  In  1854-5  hundreds  of  cattle  perished  ip.  the 
snow.  Usually  in  mid-winter,  snow  falls  every  day  with  a  high 
westerly  wind,  veering  toward  the  north,  and  thick  with  poudr(j — 
dry  icy  spiculaj,  hard  as  gravel.  The  thermometer  is  not  often 
below  zero  in  the  bottoms;  on  the  13th  of  December,  1859,  how- 
ever, the  thermometer  at  daylight,  with  the  barometer  at  26'250, 
showed  — 22°  (F.) ;  5°  or  6°  lower  than  it  had  ever  been  before. 
The  snow  seldom  lies  in  the  valleys  deeper  than  a  man's  knee ;  it 
is  dry,  and  readily  thawed  by  the  sun.  A  vast  quantity  is  drifted 
into  the  kanyons  and  passes,  where  the  people,  as  in  Styria,  often 
become  prisoners  at  home.  These  crevasses,  hundreds  of  feet 
deep,  retain  their  icy  stores  throughout  the  year.  It  is  asserted  by 
those  who  believe  in  a  Pacific  Railway  upon  this  line*  that  the 
Wasach  can  be  traversed  at  all  seasons ;  at  present,  however, 
sledge  transit  only  is  practicable,  and  at  times  even  that  is  found 
impossible. 

It  can  not  be  doubted  that  this  climate  of  arid  heat  and  dry 
cold  is  eminently  suited  to  most  healthy  and  to  many  sickly  con- 
stitutions :  children  and  adults  have  come  from  England  appar- 
ently in  a  dying  state,  and  have  lived  to  be  strong  and  robust 
I  have  elsewhere  alluded  to  the  effect  of  rarefaction  upon 


men. 


*  The  Pacific  Railroad  in  1852  was  unknown  to  flic  political  world:  in  1850  it 
began  to  l>o  necessary,  and  sliurtly  aftiTward  it  ai)])cared  in  both  "platforms," be- 
cause without  it  no  one  could  expect  to  carry  the  Mississippian  and  Pacific  States, 
Texas,  for  instance,  and  California.  The  Diary  will  show  the  many  difflcultios 
which  it  must  encounter  after  crossing  the  South  Pass ;  as  the  West  can  afford  no 
assistance,  provisions  and  material  must  all  come  from  the  East — an  additional  ele- 
ment of  expense  and  delay.  The  estimate  is  roughly  laid  down  at  $1<K),000,000: 
it  may  safely  be  doubled.  The  well-known  contractor,  Mr.  AVhitney,  oilered  to  build 
it  for  a  reservation  of  tliirtv  miles  on  lioth  sides:  the  idea  was  rejected  as  that  of  ■ 
crazy  man  It  is  promised  in  ten  ycara,  and  will  probably  take  thirty.  England, 
then,  had  l)ettcr  look  to  her  line  through  Canada  and  Columbia — it  would  bo  worth 
s  hundred  E^ft  Indifm  r&iiroftdsi 


■       4\ 


:  hi 


f  V  '1 


't    ^    ' 


278 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


the  English  physique:  another  has  been  stated,  namely,  that  the 
atmosphere  is  too  fine  and  dry  to  require,  or  even  to  permit,  the 
free  use  of  spirituous  liquors,,    Paralysis  is  rare ;   scrofula  and 

Ehthisis  are  unknown,  as  in  Nebraska— the  climate  wants  that 
umidity  which  brings  forward  the  predisposition.  It  is  also  re- 
markable that,  though  all  drink  snow-water,  and  though  many 
live  in  valleys  where  there  is  no  free  circulation  of  air,  goitre  and 
cretinism  are  not  yet  named.  The  City  Council  maintains  an  ex- 
cellent sanitary  supervision,  which  extends  to  the  minutest  objects 
that  might  endanger  the  general  health.  The  stream  of  emigrants 
which  formerly  set  copiously  westward  is  now  dribbling  back  to- 
ward its  source,  and  a  quarantine  is  established  for  those  who  ar- 
rive with  contagious  diseases.  Great  Salt  Lake  City  is  well  pro- 
vided with  disciples  of  ^sculapius,  against  whom  there  is  none 
of  that  prejudice  founded  upon  superstition  and  fanaticism  which 
anti-Mormon  writers  have  detected.  Dr.  Francis,  an  English  Mor- 
mon, lately  died,  leaving  Dr.  Anderson,  a  graduate  of  Maryland 
Colloge,  to  take  his  place :  Dr.  Bernhisel  prefers  politics  to  physic, 
and  Dr.  Kay  is  the  chief  dentist. 

The  normal  complaints  are  easily  explained  by  local  peculiari- 
ties— cold,  alkaline  dust,  and  overindulgence  in  food. 

Neuralgia  is  by  no  means  uncommon.  Many  are  compelled  to 
wear  kerchiefs  under  their  hats ;  and  if  a  head  be  not  always  un- 
covered, there  is  some  reason  for  it.  Rheumatism,  as  in  England, 
affects  the  poorer  classes,  who  arc  insufficiently  fed  and  clothed. 
Pneumonia,  in  winter,  follows  exposure  and  hard  work.  The 
pleuro-pneumonia,  which  in  1860  did  so  much  damage  to  stock 
in  New  England,  did  not  extend  to  Utah  Territory :  the  climate, 
however,  is  too  like  that  of  the  Cape  of  Storms  to  promise  lasting 
immunity.  Catarrhs  arc  severe  and  lasting ;  they  are  accompa- 
nied by  bad  toothaches  and  sore  throats,  which  sometimes  degen- 
erate into  bronchitis.  Diphtheria  is  not  yet  known.  The  mea- 
sles have  proved  especially  fatal  to  the  Indians:  in  1850,  "Old 
Elk,"  the  principal  war-chief  of  the  Timpanogos  Yutas,  died  of  it : 
erysipelas  also  kills  many  of  the  wild  men. 

For  ophthalmic  disease,  the  climate  has  all  the  efficients  of  the 
Valley  of  the  Nile,  and,  unless  suitable  precautions  are  taken,  the 
race  will,  after  a  few  generations,  become  tender-eyed  as  Egyp- 
tians. The  organ  is  weakened  by  the  acrid  irritating  dust  from 
the  alkaline  soil,  which  glistens  iii  the  sun  like  hoar-frost.  Snow- 
blindness  is  common  on  the  mountains  and  in  the  plains :  the  fu- 
Torite  preventive,  when  goggles  arc  unprocurable,  is  to  blacken 
the  circumorbital  region  and  the  sides  oi  the  nose  with  soot — the 
kohl,  surmah,  or  colTyrium  of  the  Far  West:  the  cure  is  a  drop 
of  nitrate  of  silver  or  laudanum.  The  mucous  membrane  in  horses, 
as  among  men,  is  glandered,  as  it  were,  by  alkali,  and  the  chronic 
inflammation  causes  frequent  hemorrhage :  the  nitrous  salts  in 
earth  and  air  exasperate  to  ulcers  sunburns  on  the  nose  and  mouth: 


Chap.  VI.     DISEASES.— ANIMALS  OF  UTAH  TERRITOBY. 


279 


it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  men  riding  or  walking  with  a  bit  of  pa- 
per instead  of  a  straw  between  their  lips.  Wounds  must  be  treat- 
ed to  great  disadvantage  where  the  climate,  like  that  of  Abyssinia, 
renders  a  mere  scratch  troublesome.  The  dryness  of  the  air  pro- 
duces immunity  from  certain  troublesome  excrescences  which 
cause  shooting  pains  in  humid  regions,  and  the  pedestrian  requires 
no  vinegar  and  water  to  harden  his  feet:  on  the  other  hand, 
horses'  hoofs,  as  in  Sindh  and  Arabia,  must  be  stuffed  with  tar,  to 
prevent  sun-crack. 

Under  the  generic  popular  name  "  mountain  fever"  are  includ- 
ed various  species  of  febrile  affections,  intermittent,  remittent,  and 
typhoid :  they  are  treated  successfully  with  quinine. 

Emigrants  are  advised  to  keep  up  hard  work  and  scanty  fare 
after  arrival,  otherwise  the  sudden  change  from  semi-starvation 
and  absence  of  fruit  and  vegetables  upon  the  prairies  to  plenty  in 
the  settlements  may  cause  dyspepsia,  dysentery,  and  visceral  in- 
flammation. Some  are  attacked  by  "  liver  complaint,"  the  trivial 
term  for  the  effects  of  malaria,  which,  when  inhaled,  affects  suc- 
cessively the  lungs,  blood,  liver,  and  other' viscera.  The  favorite, 
and,  indeed,  the  only  known  successful  treatment  is  by  mineral 
acids,  nitric,  muriatic,  and  others.*  Scurvy  is  unknown  to  the 
settlers ;  when  brought  in  after  long  desert  marches,  it  yields  read- 
ily to  a  more  generous  diet  and  vegetables,  especially  potatoes, 
which,  even  in  the  preserved  form,  act  as  a  specific.  The  terrible 
scorbutic  disease,  called  the  "black  canker  of  the  plains,"  has  not 
extended  so  far  west. 

There  is  not  much  sport  with  fur,  feather,  and  fin  in  this  part 
of  the  Far  West :  the  principal  carnivors  of  the  Great  Basin  are 
the  cougar  {F.  unicolor)  and  the*  cat-o'-mountain,  the  large  and 
small  wolf,  a  variety  of  foxes,  the  red  {V.fidvus),  the  great-tailed 
(F.  macrourus),  and  the  silver  (F.  argentatus),  whose  spoils  were 
once  worth  their  weight  in  silver.  There  are  minks,  ermines, 
skunks,  American  badgers,  and  wolverines  or  gluttons,  which  fer- 
ret out  caches  of  peltries  and  provisions,  and  are  said  sometimes 
to  attack  man.  Of  rodents  the  principal  are  the  beaver,  a  bur- 
rowing hare,  the  jackass-rabbit  {L.  calloiis),  porcupines,  the  geo- 
mys  or  gophar,  a  sand-rat  peculiar  to  America,  the  woodchuck  or 
ground-hog,  many  squirrels,  especially  the  Spermophilus  tredecim 
lincatus,  which  swarms  in  hilly  ground,  and  muskrat  {F.  zibeticus), 
which,  like  other  vermin,  is  eaten  by  Indians.  The  principal 
pachyderm  is  the  hyrax,  called  by  the  settlers  "cony."  Of  the 
ruminants  wc  find  the  antelope,  deer,  elk,  and  the  noble  bighorn, 

♦  The  followinp;  is  the  favorite  euro :  It  is  upon  the  principle  of  tbo  medicinal  batU 
well  known  in  Eurojie. 

R  Acid.  Nit.  5!. 

Acid.  Mur.  jii.    Mis. 
Of  tills  fifteen  drops  are  to  bo  taken  in  a  tumbler  of  water  twice  a  day  before  racnls. 
The  local  apjilication  to  the  hepatic  roRion  is  one  ounce  of  tbo  nltro-muriatic  acid  in 
A  quart  of  wtttnr.  and  applied  upon  a  compress  every  night. 


280 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  VI. 


or  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  tlie  moufflon  or  argali  of  the  New 
World. 

Of  the  raptors  the  principal  are  the  red-tailed  hawk  {B.  horealis), 
the  sharp-shinned  hawk  {A.  fuscus),  the  sparrow-hawk,  and  the 
vulturine  turkey -buzzard.  Of  game-birds  there  are  several  vari- 
eties of  quail,  called  partridges,  especially  the  beautiful  blue  spe- 
cies {0.  Ualifomica),  and  grouse,  especially  the  sage-hen  {T.  uro- 
phasianus) :  the  water-fowl  are  swans  {C.  Americanus),  wild  geese 
in  vast  numbers,  the  white  pelican,  here  a  migrating  bird,  the  cor- 
morant {Phalacrocorax),  the  mallard  or  greenhead  {A.  boschas), 
which  loves  the  water  of  Jordan  and  the  western  Sea  of  Tiberias, 
the  teal,  red-breasted  and  green-winged,  the  brant  {A.  hernida), 
the  plover  and  curlew,  the  gull  (a  small  Larus),  a  blue  heron,  and 
a  brown  crane  {G.  Canadensis),  which  are  found  in  the  marshes 
throughout  the  winter.  The  other  members  of  the  family  are  the 
bluebird  {A.  sialia),  the  humming-bird  (Trochilus),  finches,  wood- 
peckers, the  swamp  blackbird,  and  the  snpwbird,  small  passerines: 
there  is  also  a  fine  lark  {Slurnella)  with  a  harsh  note,  which  is  con- 
sidered a  delicacy  in  autumn. 

Besides  a  variety  of  gray  and  green  lizards,  the  principal  Sau- 
rian is  the  Phrynosoma,  a  purely  American  type,  popularly  called 
the  horned  frog — or  toad,  although  its  tail,  its  scaly  body,  and  its 
inability  to  jump  disprove  its  title  to  rank  as  a  batrachian — and 
by  the  Mexicans  chameleon,  because  it  is  supposed  to  live  on  air. 
It  is  of  many  species,  for  which  the  naturalist  is  referred  to  the 
Appendix  of  Captain  Stansbury's  Exploration.  The  serpents  are 
chiefly  rattlesnakes,  swamp-adders,  and  water-snakes.  The  fishes 
are  perch,  pike,  bass,  chub,  a  mountain  trout  averaging  three 
pounds,  and  salmon  trout  which  has  been  known  to  weigh  thir- 
ty pounds.  There  are  but  few  mollusks,  periwinkles,  snails,  and 
fresh-water  clams.* 

The  botany  of  the  Great  Basin  has  been  investigated  by  Messrs. 
Fremont  and  Stansbury,  who  forwarded  their  collections  for  de- 
scription to  Professor  John  Torrey,  of  New  York :  M.  Eemy  has 
described  his  own  herbarium.  To  these  valuable  works  the  read- 
er may  be  referred  for  all  now  known  upon  the  subject. 

*  Mr.  W.  Baird,  in  the  absence  of  Mr.  S.  Woodward,  of  the  British  iruscum,  has 
kindly  favored  mo  with  the  following  list  of  a  little  collection  from  the  Great  Basin 
which  I  placed  in  his  hands. 

"  nrltl-h  Miiocum,  Aiicun  Sd,  ISrtl. 

"Dkar  Sir,— The  Helix  (with  open  umbilieu.s)  is,  I  think,  II.  solitarui;  the  largo 
Physa  is  very  near,  if  not  identical  witli  the  P.  elliptica  of  our  collection ;  tlie  next 
larRCst  Physa  comes  very  near  P.  fjyrina;  the  larger  Lymnfea  is  //.  catascopiuin,  the 
smaller  ditto  L.  modicdla.  There  are  two  sficcies  of  the  Rcnus  fAtlioyli/phun,  the  one 
resemblinK  very  much  the  L.  mticoides  of  Kuropo,  but  most  probably  new ;  the  other 
I  should  imagine  to  1)0  nndescribed.  There  is  a  small  Palndim  looking  shell  which 
comes  Very  near  the  Paludina  piscium  of  D'Orbigny.  There  is  a  species  nf  Anodonta 
which  corresponds  with  a  shell  wo  have  from  the  (Jolumbia  Uiver,  but  of  which  I  do 
not  know  the  name.  There  is  also  a  species  of  Ci/c/as  which  may  be  new,  ns  I  do 
not  know  at  present  any  siiccics  from  North  America  exactly  like  it.  Believe  mc, 
yours  truly.  W.  IUikd. 


Chap.  VI. 


GEOLOGY  OF  UTAH  TERRITORY. 


281 


The  rocks  in  Utah  Territory  are  mostly  primitive — granite, 
brick-red  jasper,  syenite,  hornblende,  and  porphyry,  with  various 
quartzes,  of  which  the  most  curious  is  a  white  nodule  surrounded 
by  a  crystalline  layer  of  satin  spar.  The  presence  of  obsidian 
scoriae,  and  lava — apparently  a  dark  brown  mud  tinged  with  iron' 
and  so  vitrified  by  heat  that  it  rings— evidences  volcanic  action! 
Many  of  the  ridges  are  a  carboniferous  limestone  threaded  by  cal- 
careous spar,  and  in  places  rich  with  encrinites  and  fossil  coral- 
lines ;  it  rests  upon  or  alternates  with  hard  and  compact  grits  and 
sandstone.  The  kanyons  in  the  neighborhood  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
City  supply  boulders  of  serpentine,  fine  gray  granite,  coarse  red 
ochrish  poecilated  crystalline-white  and  metamorphic  sandstones, 
a  variety  of  conglomerates,  especially  granitic,  with  tufa  in  large 
masses,  talcose  and  striated  slates,  some  good  for  roofing,  gypsum 
(plaster  of  ParisV  pebbles  of  alabaster  and  various  kinds  of  lime- 
stones, some  dark  and  fetid,  others  oolitic,  some  compact  and  mass- 
ive, black,  blue,  or  ash-colored,  seamed  with  small  veins  of  white 
carbonate  of  lime,  others  light  gray  and  friable,  cased  with  tufa, 
or  veneered  with  jade.  The  bottom-soil  in  most  parts  is  fitted  for 
the  adobe,  and  the  lower  hills  contain  an  abundance  of  fossilless 
chalky  lime,  which  makes  tolerable  mortar :  the  best  is  that  near 
Deep  Creek,  the  worst  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 
Near  Fort  Hall,  in  the  northeast  corner  of  the  basin,  there  is  said 
to  be  a  mountain  of  marble  displaying  every  hue  and  texture : 
marble  is  also  found  in  large  crystalline  nodules  like  arragonite. 

Utah  Territory  will  produce  an  ample  supply  of  iron.*  Ac- 
cording to  the  Mormons,  it  resembles  that  of  Missouri,  and  the 
gangue  contains  eighty  per  cent,  of  pure  metal,  which,  to  acquire 
the  necessary  toughness,  must  be  alloyed  with  imported  iron. 
Gold,  according  to  Humboldt,  is  constant  in  meridional  mount- 
ains, and  we  may  expect  to  find  it  in  a  country  abounding  with 
crystalline  rocks  cut  by  dikes  of  black  and  gray  basalt  and  porous 
trap,  gneiss,  micaceous  schists,  clayey  and  slaty  shales,  and  other 
argillaceous  formations.  It  is  generally  believed  that  gold  exists 
upon  the  Wasach  Mountains,  within  sight  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 
and  in  1861  a  traveling  party  is  reported  to  have  found  a  fine 
digging  in  the  north.  Lumps  of  virgin  silver  are  said  to  have 
been  discovered  upon  the  White  Mountains,  in  the  south  of  the 
Territory,  and  Judge  Ealston,  I  am  informed,  has  lately  hit  upon 
a  mine  near  the  western  route.  Copper,  zinc,  and  lead  have  been 
brought  from  Little  Salt  Lake  Valley  and  sixty  miles  east  of  the 
Vegas  de  Santa  Clara.  Coal,  principally  bituminous — like  that 
nearer  the  Pacific — is  found  mostly  in  the  softer  limestones  south 
of  the  city,  in  a  country  of  various  marls,  indurated  clays,  and 
earthy  sandstones.     In  1855  a  vein  of  five  feet  thick,  in  quality 

*  Magnetic  iron  oro  is  traced  in  the  basaltic  rock;  cubes  of  bisulphiiret  of  iron  nro 
found  in  tlie  arKiHnccous  schists,  and  cubic  crj-stals  of  iron  pyrites  are  seen  in  white 
ferruginous  quartz. 


l\Jn 


a  '       It 


*   li 


i«l 


282  THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS.  Chap.  VI. 

resembling  that  of  Maryland,  was  discovered  west  of  tlie  San  Pete 
Creek,  on  the  road  to  Manti,  In  Iron  County,  260  to  280  miles 
south  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  inexhaustible  coal-beds  as  well  aa 
iron  deposits  are  said  to  linc'the  course  of  the  Green  Eiver,  and, 
that  nothing  may  be  wanting,  considerable  affluents  supply  abund- 
ant water-power.  A  new  digging  had  been  discovered,  shortly 
before  my  arrival  on  a  tributary  of  the  Weber  Eiver,  east  of  the 
City  of  the  Saints,  and  upon  the  western  route  many  spota  were 
pointed  out  to  me  as  future  coal-mines.  Timber  being  principally 
required  for  building,  fencing,  and  mechanical  purposes,  renders 
firewood  expensive :  in  the  city  a  cartage  of  fifteen  miles  is  neces- 
sary, and  the  price  is  thereby  raised  from  $7  in  summer  to  a  max- 
imum of  $20  in  the  hard  season  per  cord  of  sixteen  by  four  feet. 
IJnless  the  Saints  would  presently  be  reduced  to  the  necessity  of 
"  breakfasting  with  Ezekiel,"  they  must  take  heart  and  build  a 
tramroad  to  the  south. 

Saltpetre  is  found — upon  paper:  here,  as  in  other  parts  of 
America,  it  is  deficient :  a  reward  of  $500  offered  for  a  sample  of 
gunpowder  manufactured  from  Valley  Tan  materials  produced  no 
claimants.  Sulphur  is  only  too  common.  Saleratus  or  alkaline 
salts  is  the  natural  produce  of  the  soil.  Borax  and  petroleum  or 
mineral  tar  have  been  discovered,  and  the  native  alum  has  been 
analyzed  and  pronounced  good  by  Dr.  Gale.*  Rubies,  emeralds, 
and  other  small  but  valuable  stones  arc  found  in  the  chinks  of  the 

frimitive  rocks  throughout  the  western  parts  of  the  Territory, 
have  also  seen  chalcedony,  sardonyx,  carnelian,  and  various 
agates. 

Utah  Territory  is  pronounced  by  immigrants  from  the  Old 
Country  to  be  a  "  mean  land,"  hard,  dry,  and  fit  only  for  the 
steady,  sober,  and  hard-working  Mormon.  Scarcely  one  fiftieth 
part  is  fit  for  tillage ;  farming  must  be  confined  to  rare  spots,  in 
which,  however,  an  exceptional  fertility  appears.  Even  in  the 
arable  lands  there  is  a  great  variety :  some  do  not  exceed  8 — 10 
bushels  per  acre,  while  Captain  Stansbury  mentions  180  bushelsf 
of  wheat  being  raised  upon  3-50  acres  of  ground  from  one  bushel 
of  seed,  and  estimates  tlie  average  yield  of  properly-cultivated 
land  at  40  bushels,  whereas  rich  Pennsylvania  rarely  gives  30 

Eer  acre.:}:    I  have  heard  of  lands  near  the  fresh-water  lake  which 
ear  from  GO  to  105  bushels  ])cr  acre. 

The  cultivable  tracts  arc  of  two  kinds,  bcru.h-land  and  bottom- 
land. 

*  100  grninmeg  of  the  frpslily  ciystnllizod  salt  gave, 

Water .'. 730 

Protoxide  of  manganese 08'!) 

Alumii:u 01  0 

Sulphuric  acid ]8*0 

t  In  the  United  M.'tc  '1  •  bushel  of  wheat  or  cl(  -seed  is  CO  lbs. ;  of  com,  bar- 
ley, and  rye,  56  lbs.  -  of  i).iKt,  Sri — "A  lbs. 

X  The  yield  in  1-  .'pt  >'    icn  fvnn  2.5  to  150  grains  for  one  planted. 


1.. 


Chap.VL 


SOIL— FRUITS.— ALKALINE  SALTS. 


283 


The  soil  of  the  bench-lands  is  fertile,  a  mixture  of  the  highland 
feldspath  with  the  ddbris  of  decomposed  limestone.  It  is  com- 
paratively free  from  alkalines,  the  bane  of  th6  valleys;  but  as 
win  is  wanting,  it  depends,  like  the  Basses-Pyrdndes,  upon  irri- 
gation, and  must  be  fertilized  by  the  mountain  torrents  that  issue 
from  the  kanyons.  As  a  rule,  the  creeks  dwindle  to  rivulets  and 
sink  in  the  porous  alluvium  before  they  have  run  a  mile  from 
the  hill-foot,  and  reappear  in  the  arid  plains  at  a  level  too  low  for 
navigation :  in  such  places  artesian  wells  are  wanted.  The  soil, 
though  fertile,  is  thin,  requiring  compost :  manure  is  here  allowed 
to  waste,  the  labor  of  the  people  sufficing  barely  for  essentials. 
I  am  informed  that  two  bushels  of  semence  are  required  for  each 
acre,  and  tli;;t  the  cokiiists  sow  too  scantily:  a  judicious  rotation 
of  crops  is  also  yet  to  come.  The  benches  are  sometimes  exten- 
sive :  a  strip,  for  instance,  runs  along  the  western  base  of  the  Wa- 
sach  T\r  jimtains,  with  a  varying  breadth  of  1—3  miles,  from  80 
milc3  north  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  Utah  Lake  and  Valley, 
the  southern  terminus  of  cultivation,  a  total  length  of  120  miles. 
These  lands  produce  various  cereals,  especially  wheat  and  buck- 
wheat, oats,  barley,  and  a  little  Indian  corn,  all  the  fruits  and  veg- 
etables of  a  temperate  zone,  and  flax,  hemp,  and  linseed  in  abun- 
dance. The  wild  fruits  are  the  service  berry,  choke-cherry,  buf- 
falo berry,  gooseberry,  an  excellent  strawberry,  and  black,  white, 
red,  and  yellow  mountain  currants,  some  as  large  as  ounce  bullets. 

The  bottom-lands,  where  the  creeks  extend,  are  better  watered 
than  the  uplands,  but  they  are  colder  and  Salter.  The  refrig- 
erated air  seeks  the  lowest  levels;  hence  in  Utah  Territory  the 
benches  are  warmer  than  the  valleys,  and  the  spring  vegetation 
is  about  a  fortnight  later  on  the  banks  of  Jordan  than  above  them. 
Another  cause  of  cold  is  the  presence  of  saleratus  or  alkaline 
salts,  the  natural  effect  of  the  ram  being  insufficient  to  wash  them 
out.  Experiment  proved  in  Sindh  that  nothing  is  more  difficult 
than  to  eradicate  this  evil  from  the  soil:  the  sweetest  earth 
brought  from  afiir  becomes  tainted  by  it :  sometimes  the  disease 
appears  when  the  crop  is  half  grown;  at  other  times  it  attacks 
irregularly— one  year,  for  instance,  will  see  a  fine  field  of  wheat, 
and  the  next  none.  When  inveterate,  it  breaks  out  in  leprous 
eruptions,  and  pieces  of  efflorescence  can  be  picked  up  for  use :  a 
milder  form  induces  a  baldness  of  growth,  with  an  occasional 
birt  a  of  chenopodiacea;.  Many  of  the  streams  arc  dangerous  to 
cati-iu,  and  often  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  valleys  there  are  ponds 
and  pools  of  water  colored  and  flavored  like  common  ley.  Ac- 
cordmg  to  the  people,  a  small  admixture  is  beneficial  to  vegeta- 
tion ;  the  grass  is  rendered  equal  for  pasturage  to  the  far-famed 
salt-marshes  of  Essex  and  of  the  Atlantic  coast;  potatoes,  squash- 
es, and  melons  become  sweeter,  and  the  pie-plant  loses  its  acidity. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  beet  has  been  found  to  deteriorate,  no 
small  misfortune  at  such  a  distance  from  the  sugar-cane. 


'    i-'M 
■1 


284 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


Besides  salt-drought  and  frost,  the  land  has  to  contend  against 
an  Asiatic  scourge.  The  cricket  {Anabrus  simplex  ?)  is  compared 
by  the  Mormons  to  a  "  cross  between  the  spider  and  the  buftalo :" 
it  is  dark,  ungainly,  wingless,  and  exceedingly  harmful.  The  five 
red-legged  grasshopper  {CEdijMda  corallipes),  about  the  size  of  the 
English  migratory  locust,  assists  these  "  black  Philistmes,"  and, 
but  for  a  curious  provision  of  nature,  would  render  the  land  well- 
nio-h  uninhabitable.  A  small  species  of  gull  flocks  from  its  rest- 
ing-place in  the  Great  Salt  Lake  to  feed  upon  the  advancing  host; 
the  "glossy  bird  of  the  valle;y,  with  light  red  beak  and  feet,  deli- 
cate in  form  and  motion,  with  plumage  of  downv  texture  and 
softness,"  staved  in  1848  the  advance  of  the  "frightful  bug," 
whose  onward  march  nor  fires,  nor  hot  trenches,  nor  the  cncs  of 
the  frantic  farmer  could  arrest.  Wc  can  hardly  wonder  tliat  the 
Mormons,  whoso  minds,  so  soon  after  the  exodus,  were  excited  to 
the  highest  pitch,  should  have  seen  in  this  natural  phenomenon 
a  miracle,  a  special  departure  from  the  normal  course  of  events, 
made  by  Providence  in  their  favor,  or  accuse  them,  as  anti-Mor- 
mons have  done,  of  forging  signs  and  portents. 

But,  while  many  evils  beset  agriculture  in  Utah  Territory, 
grazing  is  comparatively  safe,  and  may  bo  extended  almost  ad 
libitum.  The  valleys  of  this  land  of  Goshen  supply  plentiful  pas- 
turage in  the  winter;  as  spring  advances  cattle  will  find  gamma 
and  other  grasses  on  the  benches,  and  as,  under  the  influence  of 
the  melting  sun,  the  snow-line  creeps  up  the  hills,  flocks  and 
herds,  like  the  wild  graminivorants,  .vill  follow  the  bunch-grass, 
which,  vivified  bv  the  autumnal  rains,  breeds  under  the  snow, 
and  bears  its  seed  in  summer.  In  the  basin  of  the  Green  River, 
fifty  miles  south  of  Fillmore  City,  is  a  fine  wool-producing  coun- 
trv  7000  square  miles  in  area.  Even  the  ubiquitous  sage  will 
serve  for  camels.  As  has  been  mentioned,  Durhams,  Devons,  and 
Merino  tups  have  found  their  way  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and 
the  terrible  milk-sickness*  of  the  Western  States  has  not. 

In  18G0  the  Valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  alone  produced 
80(5,000  bushels  of  grain,  of  which  about  17,000  were  oats.  Lieu- 
tenant Gunnison,  estimating  the  average  yield  of  each  ])lowed 
acre  at  20C0  lbs.  {?,^  bushels),  a  fair  estimate,  and  "drawing  tho 
meat  part  of  the  ration,  or  one  half,"  from  tho  herds  fed  elsewiicrc, 
fixes  the  maximum  of  population  in  Utah  Territory  at  4000  soi'ls 
to  a  square  mile,  and  opines  that  it  will  maintain  with  ease  one 
million  of  inliabitants. 

Timber,  I  huve  said,  is  a  growing  want  throughout  tlic  coun- 
try;  tlic  "hair  of  the  carth-aniniar'  is  by  no  means  luxuriant. 
Great  Cotton-wood  Kanyon  is  supposed  to  contain  supplies  for 
twenty  years,  but  it  is  chiefly  used  for  building  purposes,     iho 

•  A  fiitnl  opantnodir  diMpnuc  pnMliircd  iii  tlio  'Wcntor  Stntrfi  l.y  ndtriniTftit  *ftlt«  In 
the  cnrth  niul  water  _it  (\rKt  ntln.ks  initio,  urn!  then  lliow^wlii)  cut  the  infiMtoil  mcftt 
or  drluli  ibo  luUk.     MTavclcre  tcii  of  whole  Ttliages  trclng  destnr-yeiJ  by  if. 


Awarding  Coi 


*-i.l. 


Chap.  VI.      ANNUAL  EXHIBITION  IN  UTAH  TERRITORY. 


285 


Mormons,  unlike  the  Hibernians,  of  whom  it  was  said  in  the  last 
century  that  no  man  ever  planted  an  orchard,  have  applied  them- 
selves manfully  to  remedying  the  deficiency,  and  the  next  gen- 
eration will  probably  be  safe.  At  present,  "  hard  woods,"  elm 
hackberry,  pecan  or  button-wood,  hickory,  mulberry,  bas'swood', 
locust,  black  and  English  walnut,  are  wanted,  and  must  bo  im- 
por  ted  from  the  Eastern  States.  The  lower  kanyons  and  bottoms 
are  clothed  with  wild  willow,  scrub  maple,  both  hard  and  soft, 
box  elder,  aspen,  birch,  cotton-wood,  and  other  amentacia-,  and  in 
the  south  with  spruce  and  dwarf  ash.  The  higher  grounds  bear 
stunted  cedars  white  and  red,  balsam  and  other  pines,  the  dwarf 
oak,  which,  like  the  maple,  is  a  mere  scrub,  and  the  mountain  ma- 
hogany, a  tough,  hard,  and  strong,  but  grainlcss  wood,  seldom  ex- 
ceeding eight  inches  in  diameter.  Ilawthorn  (a  CmUvgus)  also 
exists,  and  in  the  southern  and  western  latitudes  the  piuon  (/-*. 
monophyllus),  varying  from  the  size  of  an  umbrella  to  twenty  feet 
in  height,  feeds  the  Indians  with  its  oily  nut,  which  not  a  little 
resembles  the  seed  of  the  pinaster  and  the  Mediterranean  P.  Pinea, 
and  supplies  a  rich  gum  for  strengthening  plasters. 

The  present  state  of  agriculture  in  the  vicinity  of  Great  Salt 
Lake  City  will  best  be  explained  by  the  prospectus  of  the  annual 
show  for  I860.*    Wheat  thrives  better  than  maize,  which  in  the 

*  List  of  premiums  to  bo  awarded  by  the  Desere't  ARriciiltural  and  Manufacturing 
Society,  ut  the  Annual  Exhibition,  October  3d  ui'd  4lh,  18G0. 

Class  A.— Cattli:. 
Awarding  Committee— Hector  C.  Ilaight,  Wm.  Jennings,  Wm.  Miller,  Alex.  Baron. 

Host  Durlinin  bull $1 '  00, Sd  lnwt  Devon  cow  nnd  calf    dip.  j2d  bent  liloodcd  and  woolcd 

"il       ilo.  f»  (K)  llost  natlvft  or  crma  cow  buck $3  00 

M        do.  dip  I         and  ciilf $:i  M'     Sd        do.  do! dip 

Heat  Dovon  bull In  00     3rl        do.  do.  3  00  Dest  2  ewea  for  blood  ind 

'id        do t)  M,     8d        do.  dn.  dip  wool  4  00 

i'd        do dip.lllnnt  Syiarold  lirlfcr 8  00      3d        do.  do  2  00 

lUwt  bull  under  1  year. ...     B  00|    2d        do.        do dip.  I    8d       do.  do.  dip 

2il        do.        do dip  iIloKt  1  yeiirold  bclfcr..    ..   2  00  llont  boar '  H  00 

Iloat  Durlmmcowand  lulf    dm,     2(1         "  " 


U       do.  do. 

M       do.  do. 

11««l  Devon  cow  and  cnlf. 
2d        do.  do. 


3  00 
dip. 
5  m 
a  (10 


illp.! 
UvH  nmtcliud native  ciittlu.  Ti  OOi 


do. 


do. 


Vd   do 8  00 

,     8d  do.  dip. 

2d        do.           do.            U  00  Bei>t  bow  nnd  pigs 8  flO 

111!        <lo.            do.              dip.      2d          do S  00 

Ikwt  blooded  &  wooUd  buck  5  OOi     8d          do.          dip. 

Class  B.— Fiian  Citors. 


Awarding  Committee— A.  P.  Rockwood,. Joseph  Ilolbrook,  L,  E.  Harrington,  John 

Row  berry. 


lleat  fenced  and  cuUlratnd 
fnriii  not  leim  than 
twenty  acrcn 

5d               do. 
Ifc't  fi'nred  and  cnltlvntod 
Kitrdi'U 

2d  do. 

Ile»t  ftacre<  of  suKar-cani." 

2d  do. 

nd  do. 

Ith  do. 

Dent  I  acre  ol  iiui;«r-cnno. 

9d  do. 

8d  do. 

IVwt  B  acr<w  of  wlioat .... 

2d  do. 

Bd  lIlL  


$ft  00 
dip. 

,5  00 

dip 

15  6o 

10  flO 


Hiwt  B  acrcfl  of  com $ «  00  S.llwnt  1  aero  of  p«aa  .  ...    din 

2'>  ''*        a  OOltiwt  1  acre'of  ftax an  Ao 

!11  <1" dip!    2'l  do 8  00 


IICKt  fi  aci-M  of  tumlpii . , , 

2d  do. 

Sd              do.            ...      dip. 
lliMit  B  »cri-«  of  bccfc" B  (HI 


2d  do. 

:id  do. 

B  00  IVwt  B  acres  of  carrota  . . 
dip.  I    ad  do. 

B  1)0      ad  d 


f*00      8d             do dip. 

8  (H)  Itent  1  aero  of  hemp 6  00 

"         2d             do.          8  00 

8il  do. 


8  00  PcKt  1  aero  of  rod  clover  . . 

•111'.      2d  do. 

B  m    8d  do. 

3  00  Ileft  1  aero  of  poUtoea 

'lip'    M  do. 

n  00  llent  1  aero  of  whllo  bealxi.    B  (Ki  i\,-H  1  acre  of  Ilunsarlan 

•I'P-      H'!  'lo-  'i  »<•         (<i»<« BOO 

B  tm    ad           do.  dip.     2d  do.  s  no 

8  0(1  llext  1  acre  of  pMi Boo     8d  do.  dip, 


dip. 
B  no 

8  00 
dip. 
8  (W 
dip. 


dint    9d 


I 


Ot 


tr 


•H 


ri 


V 


i\ 


286 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


northern  parts  suffers  from  the  late  frosts,  and  requires  a  longer 
summer.  Until  oats  and  barley  can  be  grown  in  sufficient  quan- 
tities, horses  are  fed  upon  heating  wheat,  which  only  the  hardest 


Class  B. — Field  Crops — Contimied. 


2d  best  acre  of  rye dip. 

Ucat  acra  of  turuipa $3  OU 

2d             do.          dip. 

Best  aero  of  beoU 8  00 

2d            do.         dip. 

Best  acre  of  carrota 8  00 

2d             do dip. 

Best  100  11)8.  flax 6  00 

2d            do 2  00 


3d  best  100  11)9.  of  flax  . 

Best  100  lb«.  hemp 

2d  do 2  00 

3d  do dip. 

Best  10  lbs.  manufucturod 

tobacco 3  00 

2d  bcxt  20  lb?,  manufac- 
tured tol)acco 2  00 


dtp., 3d  best  20  lbs.  manufac- 

00         turad  tobacco dip. 

Best  0  canes   of  Clilneso 


sugar-cane $3  00 


BcstlOacres  of  cotton $30  00 

2d  do.  20  00 

3d  do.  ....  l."*  00 

4tli  do.  10  00 

6th  da  ....      dip. 

Beat  5  acres  of  cotton 2B  00 

2d  do.  20  00 

Bd  d(v  ....    16  00 

4th  da  ....   10  00 

6th  da  ....      dip. 

Best  a  acres  of  cotton  ....  20  (lO 
8d  da  ....   16  00 


nd  best  2  acres  of  cotton.  .$10  00 

4th            do.                 . .  6  00 

6th            do.                 ..  dip. 

Bext  1  aero  of  cotton 16  00 

2d             do 10  00 

3d             do 8  00 

4th            do.           B  00 

&th            do.           dip. 

BcKt  i  aero  of  cotton 10  00 

2d             do 8  00 

3d            do 0  00 


2d                  do. 

200 

3d                  do. 

dip. 

Beet  G  canes  of  field-corn. 

.    2  00 

2d            da 

.    1  00 

3d            da 

.     dip. 

CroLbv,  Robert  D.  Coving- 

It.  M 'CuUough, 

4th  best  i  acre  of  cotton. 

$4  00 

Bth           da 

dip. 
25  OO 

Best  6  ucrcs  of  tobacco  . . 

2d            da 

20  00 

3d             da 

16  00 

4th           da 

10  00 

6th            do. 

dip. 

Best  1  aci-o  of  tobacco . . . 

15  00 

2d            do. 

.   10  00 

8d            da 

.     BOO 

4th          da 

.     dip. 

Class  C. — Veoetaih.es. 


Awarding  Committee — Sidney  A.  Knowlton,  Charles  II.  Oliphant,  Thos.  Woodbury. 


Best. brace  cucumbers 

2(1             da 
VcKl  3  squaKhes 

2d  do 

Boi-t  3  pumpkins 

2J         do 

Bt^st  3  water  melons 

2d  do.  

Oc»t  3  canlnluupea 

2d  ilo 

Be»t  pccic  of  tomatoes. . . . 

2d  (la 

Bil  <lo.  

Best  3  early  cabbagen 

2d  do.  

Best  8  late  rabba^'oa 

2d  do.  

B«Ht  3  reil  rabbaKCS 

2d  do 

Bojit  3  Savov  cabbagtw 

2d  da 

Uot  0  itttUia  uf  c«der7  — 


$3  00  2il  l)o.«t  0  ftslks  of  ccli'ry. .  •  dip. 

dip.  Bent  0  blood  beets $2  IH) 

2  00!     2d            do dip. 

dip.  Bcxt  0  sugar  bceU 2  (H) 

2  00:     2d            da        dip. 

dip.  Best  0  carrots 9  (Hi 

9  00      2d          do dip. 

dip  Ilext  0  parenips 8  00 

2  OO'     2d         do.       dip. 

dip.  Ik'st  0  turnips 2  00 

2  (Mil     2d         da       dip. 

1  00  Bcwt  peck  of  silver  onioud.  9  00 

dip.  I     2d                 d«.  dip 

1  60  Beit  pock  of  yellow  ouions  2  (lO; 

dip.!     2d                 do.  dip. 

1  60  IlMt  peck  of  red  onions. . .  9  00 

dip.      2d             do.                ...  dip.' 

1  DO  Ik'Kt  lH<ck  of  i)ot«tooii 2  OOJ 

dip.      2d            do.              dip. 

1  BO  Best  peck  of  sweet  potaU>c«  6  (K) 
dip.  i     2d                 do.  9  (K) 

2  00      3d                 da  dip.i 


Best  quart  of  Uma  l)oans.  $3  00 

2d  (In.  dip. 

lk>i<t  (piart  of  bush  beans. .    2  00 

2d               do.                ..     dip. 
Ik'st  (|uart  of  peus 2  Oo 

2d  do dip. 

Ik-xt  0  stalks  of  rhubarb. ,    2  00 

2d  do.  . .     dip. 

Itext  4  heads  of  caulitlower    1  00 

2d  do. 

Bext  4  heads  of  brocoU, . . . 

2(1  do. 

Bext  4  beads  of  lettuce, 

2d  do. 

Ik-xt  bunch  of  |>arsley  . 

2d  da 

Best  collection  of  radishes 

2d  da 

llext  collection  of  peppers. 

2(1               do. 
Ik'st  egg-plant 1 

2d       da        dip. 


dip. 
100 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 
1  UO 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 


Class  D.— FntnTs  and  Flowers. 


Awarding  Committee — Edward  Snyrcs,  George  A.  Nicl,  Dnnlcl  Grave*. 


nmtequlnoes $3  On 


2(1  da 

Bil  da      

4th  do 

Brut  3  bunches  of  grapes, 

2(1  do. 

8<l  da 

4th  da 


TlwtO  apples * $3  00 

2d        .li> 2  OO 

!ld        do 1  00 

4th      do Up. 

Best  0  |)«aclies ,'1  00 

2d        da     2  00 

8d        da      1  00 

4th      d Up- 
Best  0  pesrs 8  mtUost  (piart  of  natlre  grnftod 

2d       da 9  (Ht|        plums 

Bd        da 1  00     9<l  'lo, 

4lh       do dlp.l     ad  da 

Best  0  apricot* 8  (K)  Best  plat  of  currantJ 9 

»,l       do.     »  W     M  do 100 

M       do 100     8d  do.  dtp. 

4Ul      do dlr.1 


2  (M) 
1  00 
dip. 

8  (H) 

9  00 
1  (N) 
dip. 

9  00 
1  <M) 
dli 


t 


Best  specimen  of  EuKltth 

cherries $3  00 


2d  d(^ 

8d                 do. 
Best  bed  or  hlUs  of  straw- 
lierriui 

9(1  da 

3d  da 

4th  do. 

Best  raspberries  . . 

2(1        da 

ad        da 
lk<st  gooteborriei 9  ' 

8d        do 1  00 

8d       do,  dip. 


2  00 
dip. 

800 
900 
100 

1  00 
dip. 


Chap.  VL 


THE  PAST  OF  MORMONLAND. 


287 


riding  enables  them  to  digest.  IIolcus  saccharatum,  or  Chinese 
millet,  succeeds  where  insufficient  humidity  is  an  obstafcle  to  the 
sugar-cane.  The  fault  of  the  vegetables  here,  as  in  California,  is 
excessive  size,  which  often  renders  them  insipid ;  the  Irish  pota- 
to, however,  is  superior  to  that  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Charleston ; 
the  onions  are  large  and  mild  as  those  of  Spain.  The  white  car- 
rot, the  French  bean,  and  the  cucumber  grow  well,  and  the  "  mul- 
ticaulis  mania"  has  borne  good  fruit  in  the  shape  of  cabbage. 
The  size  of  the  beets  suggested  in  1853  the  project  originated  in 
France  by  Napoleon  the  Great:  $100,000  were  expended  upon 
sugar-making  machinery;  the  experiment,  however,  though  di- 
rected by  a  Frenchman,  failed,  it  is  said,  on  account  of  the  alkali 
contained  in  the  root,  and  the  Saints  arc  accused  of  having  dis- 
tilled for  sale  bad  spirit  from  the  useless  substance.  The  deserts 
skirting  the  Western  Holy  Land  have  also  their  manna;  the 
leaves  of  poplars  and  other  trees  on  the  banks  of  streams  distill, 
at  divers  seasons  of  the  year,  globules  of  honey-dew,  resembling 
in  color  gum  Arabic,  but  of  softer  consistence  and  less  adhesive- 
ness: the  people  collect  it  with  spoons  into  saucers.  Cotton 
thrives  in  the  southern  and  southwestern  part  of  Utah  Territory 
when  the  winter  is  mild :  at  the  meeting-place  of  waters  near  the 
Green  and  Grand  Elvers  that  unite  to  form  the  Colorado,  the 
shrub  has  been  grown  with  great  success. 

The  principal  value  of  Utah  Territory  is  its  position  as  a  great 
half  wav  station — a  Tadmor  in  the  wilderness — between  the  Val- 
ley of  the  Mississippi  and  tlio  Western  States,  California  and  Ore- 
gon ;  it  has  thus  proved  a  benefit  to  humanity.  The  Mormons, 
"flying  from  civilization  and  Christianity,"  attempted  to  isolate 
themselves  from  the  world  in  a  mountain  fastness;  they  were 
foiled  by  an  accident  far  beyond  human  foresight.  They  had  re- 
tired to  a  complete  oasis,  defended  by  sterile  volcanic  passes, 
which  in  winter  are  blocked  up  with  snow,  girt  by  vast  waterless 
and  uniiihabitablo  deserts,  and  unapproachable  from  any  settled 
country  save  by  a  painful  and  dangerous  march  of  600—1000 
miles.  Presently,  in  1850,  the  gold  fever  broke  out  on  the  Pa- 
cilic  soa-board ;  thousands  of  people  not  only  passed  through 
Utah  Territory,  but  were  also  compelled  to  remain  there  and 
work  for  a  livelihood.  The  transit  received  a  fresh  impulse  ia 
1858  by  the  jrold  discovered  at  Pike's  Peak,  and  in  185S)  by  the 
rich  silver  mines  found  in  the  Carson  and  Washoo  Valleys,  on 
the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Careon  Valley,  which 
was  settled  by  Colonel  Recce  in  1852,  and  colonized  in '1855  by 
600  Mormons,  was  soon  cleared  of  Saints  by  the  influx  of  pros- 
pectors and  diggers,  and  the  other  El  Dorados  drew  off  much 


1^ 


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f  i 


Fu)WKn«. 
Ilont   collection   of   Chlim           l«(l  Imut  rollortlonof  dnIiIlM   dip. 
tiien f  1  00  Ik'xl rulltttloii of ro«c.i $2  IK) 


U  dn. 

Beat  culloctlon  of  dalillu 


dip.  I    -ill 


do. 


'i  UO  Doit  colloctluuuf  cut  Howura  1 


dip 


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HowcrK dip. 

Ik<iit('olloctionof|iotflowen$l  00 
'id  du.  dip. 


288 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


Gentile  population,  wbicli  was  an  incalculable  boon  to  tbe  Mor- 
mons. They  thus  rid  themselves  of  the  "  thriving  lawyers,  gam- 
blers, prostitutes,  criminals,  and  desperadoes,  loafers,  and  drunk- 
ards," who  made  New  Jerusalem  a  carnival  of  horrors.  The 
scene  is  now  shifted  to  Denver  and  Carson  cities,  where  rape  and 
robbery,  intoxication  and  shooting  are  attributed  to  their  true 
causes,  the  gathering  together  of  a  lawless  and  excited  crowd,  not 
to  the  "  baleful  shade  of  that  deadly  Upas-tree,  Mormonism." 

The  Mormons,  having  lost  all  hopes  of  safety  by  isolation,  now 
seek  it  in  the  reverse :  mail  communication  with  the  Eastern  and 
Western  States  is  their  present  hobby:  they  look  forward  to 
markets  for  their  produce,  and  to  a  greater  facility  and  economy 
of  importing.  They  have  dreamed  of  a  water-line  to  the  East  by 
means  of  the  Missouri  head-waters,  which  arc  said  to  be  naviga- 
ble for  350 — 400  miles,  and  to  the  West  by  the  tributaries  of  the 
Snake  River,  that  afford  400.  Shortly  after  the  foundation  of 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  they  proceeded  to  establish,  under  the  ec- 
clesiastical title  "  Stakes  of  Zion  in  the  Wilderness,"  settlements 
and  outjiosts,  ccliclonned  in  skeleton,  afterward  to  be  filled  in, 
from  Temple  Block  along  the  southern  line  to  San  Diego.  The 
importance  of  connecting  the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific  by  a  short- 
er route  than  the  24,000  miles  of  navigation  round  Cape  Horn, 
has  produced  first  a  monthly,  then  a  weekly,  and  lastly  a  daily 
mail,  and  has  opened  up  a  route  from  the  Holy  City  to  Carson 
Valley.  So  far  from  opposing  the  Pacific  Railroad,  tlic  local  Leg- 
islature petitioned  for  it  in  1849,  and  believe  that  it  would  in- 
crease the  value  of  their  property  tenfold.  But  as  equal  parts  of 
Mormon  and  Gentile  never  could  dwell  together  in  amity,  exten- 
sive communication  would  probably  result  in  causing  the  Saints 
to  sell  out,  and  once  more  to  betake  themselves  to  their  "  wilder- 
ness work"  in  Sonora,  or  in  other  l)alf-settled  ])ortions  of  North- 
ern Mexico.  This  view  of  the  question  is  taken  by  the  I'ederal 
authorities,  who  would  willingly,  if  they  could,  confer  upon  the 
petitioners  the  Mai  boon. 

The  Mormon  ])ioneei-s,  14'>  in  number,  when  sent  westward 
under  several  of  the  apostles  to  seek  for  settlements,  fixed  u]>on 
tho  Valley  of  tlie  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  advance  colony  of  4000 
souls,  expelled  from  Nauvoo  on  the  Missiasinpi,  and  headed  by 
"Brigham  the  Seer,"  arrived  tlierc  on  the  24th  of  July,  1847,  the 
anniversary  of  which  is  their  4tli  of  July — Independence  Day. 
]icfore  the  end  of  the  first  week  a  tract  of  land  was  ditched,  plow- 
ed, and  planted  with  potatoes.  City-Creek  Kanyon  was  danmied 
for  irrigation ;  an  area  of  forty  acres  was  fortified  after  the  old 
New  England  fiishion  by  facing  log  houses  inward,  and  V)y  a  pal- 
isade of  timber  hauled  from  the  ravine? ;  tho  city  was  laid  out 
upon  the  spot  where  they  first  rested,  the  most  eligible  site  in 
the  Valley,  and  prayers,  with  solemn  ceremonies,  consecrated  the 
land. 


Chap.  VI.     CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE  OP  DESERfiT. 


289 


Early  in  1849,  the  Mor  nons,  irritated  by  the  contemptuous  si- 
lence of  the  federal  government,  assembled  themselves  in  Conven- 
tion, and,  with  the  boldness  engendered  by  a  perfect  faith,  duly 
erected  themselves  into  a  free,  sovereign,  and  independent  people 
with  a  vast  extent  of  country.*  Disdaining  to  remain  in  statu 
pupillari,  they  dispensed  with  a  long  political  minority,  and  rush- 
ed into  the  conclave  of  republics  like  California,  whose  sons  are 
fond  of  comparing  her  to  Minerva  issuing  full-grown  from  the 
cranium  of  Jupiter  into  the  society  of  Olympus.  Housed  by  this 
liberty,  the  Senate  and  House  of  Eepresentatives  of  the  United 
States  of  America,  in  Congress  assembled,  on  the  9th  of  Septem- 

*  The  following  is  the  preamble  totlie  Constitution:  it  is  a  fair  specimen  of  Mor- 
mon plain-dealing. 

Provisional  Government  of  the  State  of  DcsGr(?t.— Abstract  of  Convention  Min- 
utes. On  the  15th  of  March,  1849,  the  Convention  ai)pointed  the  following  persons 
a  Committee  to  draft  a  Constitution  for  the  State  of  Desere't,  viz. :  Albert  Carring- 
ton,  Joseph  L  Ileywood,  William  W.  Phelps,  David  Fullmer,  John  S.  Fullmer, 
Charles  C.  Uieh,  John  Taylor,  Parley  P.  Pratt,  John  M.  Bernhiscl,  Erastus  Snow. 

March  I8th,  1849.  Albert  Carrington,  chairman  of  the  Committee,  reported  the 
foUowmg  Constitution,  which  was  read  and  unanimously  adojitcd  by  the  Convcn- 

CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE  OF  DESER^T. 

PREAMnLE.— Whereas  a  large  number  of  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  before 
and  since  the  Treaty  of  Peace  with  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  emigrated  to,  and  set- 
tled m  that  portion  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States  lying  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  in  the  great  interior  Basin  of  Upper  California ;  and 

Whereas,  by  reason  of  said  treary,  all  civil  organization  originating  from  the  Re- 
public of  Mexico  became  abrogated ;  and 

Whereas  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  has  failed  to  provide  a  form  of  civil 
government  for  the  territory  so  acriuircd,  or  any  portion  thereof;  and 

Whereas  civil  government  and  laws  are  necessary  for  the  security,  peace,  and 
prosjierity  of  society;  and 

Whereas  it  is  a  fundamental  principle  in  all  republican  governments  that  all  po- 
litical ])ower  is  inherent  in  the  iKJople,  and  governments  instituted  for  their  protec- 
tion, security,  and  benefit  should  emanate  from  the  same : 

Therefore  your  rr)mmittce  beg  leave  to  recommend  the  adoption  of  the  following 
CoNSTiTi'TioN  until  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  shall  otherwise  provide  for 
the  government  of  the  Territory  hereinafter  named  and  described  by  admitting  us 
into  the  Uuion.  Wk,  tiik  people,  grateful  to  the  Sui>ni;MK  Being  for  the  bless- 
ings hitherto  enjoyed,  and  feeling  our  dependence  on  Ilim  for  a  continuation  of 
those  blessings,  do  ohdain  ani>  ehtablisu  a  khee  and  independent  oovehnment, 
by  the  name  of  the  State  or  Debeuct,  including  all  the  territory  of  the  United 
States  within  the  following  boundaries,  to  wit:  commencing  at  the  3;)°  of  north  lat- 
itude, wiiere  it  crosses  the  108'  of  longitude,  west  of  (irecnwich;  thence  running 
south  and  west  to  the  boundary  of  Mexico;  thence  west  to  and  down  the  main 
channel  of  the  Gila  River  (or  the  northern  lino  of  Mexico),  and  on  the  northern 
hcmndary  o" Lower  California  to  the  Pacilic  Ocean;  thence  along  the  coast  north- 
westerly to  the  118°  30'  of  west  longitude;  thence  north  to  where  said  line  inter- 
sects the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains;  thence  north  along  the 
summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  to  the  dividing  range  of  mountains  that 
separate  the  waters  (lowing  into  the  Cohimbia  River  from  the  waters  running  into 
the  Great  Basin ;  thence  easterly  along  the  dividing  range  of  mountains  that  sepa- 
rate said  waters  flowing  info  tlu!  Columbia  River  on  the  north,  from  the  waters  flow- 
ing  into  the  Groat  Basin  on  the  south,  to  the  summit  of  the  Wind  River  chain  of 
moinitains;  thence  southeaHt  anil  south  by  the  dividing  range  of  mountains  that 
Bopiiriite  the  waters  flowing  into  the  (Julf  of  Mexico  from  the  waters  flowing  intofho 
Oalf  of  California,  to  the  place  of  beginning,  as  set  forth  in  a  map  drawn  by  Charles 
I'rcujis,  and  published  by  order  of  tlio  Senalo  of  the  United  States  in  1848, 

T 


1  ];>.»> 


I  ! 


» 


290 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


ber,  1850,  sheared  the  self-constituted  repubhc  of  its  fair  propor- 
tions, and  reduced  it  to  the  infant  condition  of  New  Mexico,  with 
the  usual  proviso  in  the  organic  act  that  when  qualified  for  ad- 
mission as  states  they  shall  become  slave  or  free,  as  their  respect- 
ive Constitutions  may  prescribe.  At  present  one  of  the  principal 
Mormon  grievances  is  that,  although  their  country  can,  by  virtue 
of  population,  claim  admission  into  the  Union,  which  has  lately 
been  overrun  with  a  mushroom  growth,  like  Michigan,  Minnesota, 
and  Oregon,  their  prayers  are  not  only  rejected,  but  even  their 
petitions  remain  unnoticed.  The  cause  is,  I  believe,  polygamy, 
which  until  the  statute  law  is  altered,  would  not  and  could  not 
be  tolerated,  either  in  America  or  in  England.  To  the  admission 
of  other  Territories,  Kansas,  for  instance,  the  slavery  question  was 
the  obstacle.  The  pro  party  will  admit  none  who  will  not  sup- 
port the  South,  and  vice  versa.  Perhaps  it  is  well  so,  otherwise 
the  old  and  civilized  states  would  soon  find  themselves  swamped 
by  batches  of  peers  in  rapidly  succeeding  creations. 

The  Mormons  have  another  complaint,  touching  the  tenure  of 
their  land.  The  United  States  have  determined  that  the  Indian 
title  has  not  been  extinguished.  The  Saints  declare  that  no  tribe 
of  aborigines  could  prove  a  claim  to  the  country,  otherwise  they 
were  ready  to  purchase  it  in  perpetuity  by  pay,  presents,  and  pro- 
visions, besides  establishing  the  usual  reservations.  Moreover, 
the  federal  government  has  departed  from  the  usual  course.  The 
law  directs  that  the  land,  when  set  off  into  townships,  six  miles 
square  with  subdivisions,*  must  be  sold  at  auction  to  the  highest 
bidder.  The  Mormons  represent  that  although  a  survey  of  con- 
siderable tracts  has  been  completed  by  a  federal  official,  they  are 
left  to  be  mere  squatters  that  can  bo  ejected  like  an  Irish  tenant- 
ry, because  the  government,  knowing  their  abiUty  and  readiness 
to 'pay  the  recognized  pre-emption  price  ($1  25  per  acre),  fear  lest 
those  now  in  possession  should  become  lawful  owners  and  perma- 
nent proprietors  of  the  soil.f    Polygamy  is  here  again  to  blame. 

The  Alortnou  setllemcnls  resemble  those  of  the  French  in  Can- 
ada and  elsewhere  rather  than  the  English  in  Australia,  the  Dutch 
at  the  Cape,  or  the  American  S(iuatters  on  the  Western  frontier. 
They  eschew  solitude,  and  cluster  together  round  the  Church  and 
the  succedaneum  for  the  priest.  In  establishing  these  "stakes" 
they  proceed  methodically.  A  tentative  expedition,  sent  out  to 
select  the  point  i)resenting  the  greatest  facilities  for  settlement?, 
is  followed  by  a  volunteer  band  of  Saints,  composed  of  fanners, 

•  Vij!  thp  BPCtinn  of  one  Fqunro  milo,  the  Imlf  cpction  ^320  lurcs.  nnd  tlio  (pinr- 
tcr  opption  of  U'.O  ncrcM :  the  luttpr  is  tlic  lc>?al  Rvniit  to  militiiry  settlors.  1  Iip  prc- 
cmi.tion  Inws  in  th«  Unitp.l  Htntes  .ire  junt  nn.l  prpeise;  but  in  tlio  mountnnm  it  is 
nt.('iit  an  pasy  to  rjcct  a  Kquattir  as  to  collect  "riiif  from  Wentcrn  (.iilwiiy  ii>  tlio 

(lavs  of  Mr.  Mnriin.  _  , .      ,  .       i-  ,i, . 

t  In  KiiKlana  an.l  Scotland  flio  rent  for  use  of  land  avcriiRPS  one  (luarter  oflliu 
pross  jirodiice;  in  Fnin.c,  one  third;  unhappy  India" gives  one  half;  nnd  the  ler- 
ritoriuB  of  lliu  Uuitcd  Stutcs  nearly  nothing. 


Chap.  VI. 


COUNTIES  IN  UTAH  TERRITORY. 


291 


mechanics,  and  artisans,  headed  by  an  apostle,  president  elder  or 
some  other  dignitary.  The  foundations  are  laid  with  long  cere- 
monies. The  fort  or  block-house  is  first  built,  and  when  the  peo- 
ple are  lodged  the  work  of  agriculture  begins.  The  cities  of  Utah 
Territory  are  somewhat  like  the  "  towns"  of  Cornwall.  At  pres- 
ent there  are  three  long  lines  of  these  juvenile  settlements  estab- 
lished as  caravanserais  in  the  several  oases.  The  first  is  along 
the  Humboldt  Eiver  to  Carson  Valley ;  the  second  is  by  the 
southe.-n  route,  vid  Fillmore;  and  the  third  is  betwixt  the  two 
along  "  Egan's  Eoute,"  the  present  mail  line.  ' 

/-.o^^?.^°""*^^^'  o^gi^ally  5,  increased  in  1855  to  12,  are  now 
(1860)  19  in  number,  viz. : 

1.  Great  Salt  Lake  County:  the  chief  town  is  Great  Salt  Lake 
City ;  the  sub-settlements  are  the  Sugar-House,  4  miles  S.  of  Tem- 
ple Block— the  invariable  j9om<  de  depart;  Mill  Creek,  7  miles- 
Great  Cotton-wood,  8—9  miles;  West  Jordan,  Jordan  Mills,  Herri- 
man,  and  Union,  or  Little  Cotton-wood  Creek,  12  miles;  Drapers- 

^^  o^'  TT^T^i  ^^^^^  ^' '  ^^^  ^^^^^  villages,  with  good  farming  lands. 

2.  Utah  County:  the  chief  town  is  Provo  or  Provaux,  on  the 
Timpanogos  River,  45  miles;  David  City,  on  Dry  Creek,  28  miles- 
Lake  City  on  American  Fork,  32  miles  S. ;  Lehi  City,  35  miles 
S. ;  Lone  City,  37  miles  S. ;  Pleasant  Grove  or  Battle  Creek,  41 
miles  S.;  Springvillc  or  Hobble  Creek,  53— 54  miles;  Palmyra 
a  small  place  cast  of  the  Lake,  and  north  of  Spanish  Fork  59--6() 
miles ;  Spanish-Fork  City,  61  miles  S. ;  Pondtown,  64  miles  S  • 
Payson  City,  on  both  banks  of  the  Peet-Neet  Creek,  64—65  miles 
S. ;  and  Santa  Quin,  74  miles  S. 

3.  Davis  County:  chief  town  Farmington;  others.  Stoker,  Cen- 
trcville,  12-50  miles  N.,  and  Kaysville,  22  miles  N. 

4.  Weber  County:  chief  town  Ogdcn  City,  on  both  sides  of  Oc^- 
den  River,  40  miles  E. ;  also  North  Ogden.  ° 

5.  Iron  County :  chief  town  Parovan,  so  called  from  the  Pavant 
Indians;  built  on  Centre  Creek,  255  miles  S.  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
Citv,  and  96  miles  from  Fillmore,  and  incorporated  in  1851  Also 
Cedar  City  near  Little  Salt  Lake,  275  miles  S. ;  St.  Joseph's 
bpriiigs  and  Vegas  do  Santa  Clara,  200  miles  from  Cedar  City. 
Ihc  Aztecs,  as  their  rock  inscriptions  prove,  once  extended  to 
Little  Salt  Lake  Valley. 

6.  ToocLd  County:  chief  town  Tooele  City,  32  miles  W.;  also 
"Eastern  Tooele  City,"  26  miles  W. ;  Grantsvillc,  27  miles  W. ; 
RichviUe  and  Cedox  Valley,  40  miles  \V. 

7.  San  Pete  Valley  County  and  City,  131  miles,  laid  out  by  the 
presidency  in  1849,  and  incorporated  in  1850 ;  Fort  Ephraim,  130 
miles;  Manti  City,  140  miles,  on  the  southern  declivity  of  Mount 
Jsebo.  A/tecan  pictographs  have  been  found  upon  the  cliffs  in 
ban  Pete  Valley. 

8.  Juab  County :  chief  town  Salt  Creek,  in  a  valley  separated 
from  Utah  Valley  by  a  ridge,  on  which  nins  Summit  Crook. 


ifcl 


f-A 


.k^iLo.. 


292 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CHiP.  VI. 


9.  Box-Elder  County  and  City,  60  miles  N. ;  also  Willow  Creek 
and  Brigham's  City. 

10.  Washington  County:  chief  town  Fort  Harmony,  on  Ash 
Creek,  291  miles  S.,  and  20  mUes  N.  of  Eio  Virgen.* 

•  I  annex  a  description  of  Washington  County,  which  lately  appeared  in  the 
" DGScrct  News**' 

"Yesterday  afternoon  I  met  in  the  library  of  the  University  the  Hon.  \Vm.  Cros- 
by, the  representative  from  Washington  County  to  our  Legislature,  who  furnishes  mc 
with  some  items  of  information  respecting  the  county  he  represents  worthy  a  passing 
notice,  especially  as  there  is  so  little  known  of  that  county.  The  inhabitants  are  es- 
timated at  about  1500  persons,  chiefly  engaged  in  farming  and  grazing.  The  coun- 
ty of  Washington  in  area  is  as  large  as  the  State  of  Connecticut,  generally  of  a  bar- 
ren, desert  character,  broken  and  mountainous.  On  the  borders  of  the  Rio  Virgen 
and'  the  Santa  Clara  there  are  narrow  strips  of  land  exceedingly  fertile,  on  which 
every  thing  grows  with  great  richness,  and  at  a  cost  of  very  little  labor.  During 
the  present  year  only  CO,  000  pounds  of  cotton  have  been  raised,  but,  properly  culti- 
vated ami  attended  to,  the  inhabitants  there  could  raise  all  the  cotton  ever  required 
by  the  inhabitants  of  this  Territory.  At  present  its  cultivation  is  almost  neglected 
for  the  want  of  proper  facilities  for  its  manufacture.  The  entrance  also  of  the  army 
in  1857,  followed  by  immense  trains  of  goods — which,  by-the-by,  some  of  the  mer- 
chants never  paid  a  cent  for,  and  it  is  veiy  doubtful  if  they  ever  will — was  also  a 
crushing  competition  to  the  peojjle  of  Wasliington  County. 

"  Every  kind  of  fruit  that  has  been  tried  there  grows  with  great  luxuriance.  The 
apple,  pear,  plum,  apricot,  peach,  and  fig  trees  do  exceedingly  well.  Tiie  English 
walnut-tree  grew  this  year  nine  feet,  and  the  Catawba  grape  grew  nineteen  feet  and 
n  half  before  the  Cth  of  September.  The  bunches  of  those  grapes,  many  of  them, 
measured  nineteen  inches  in  length.  At  Tocqueville,  one  of  the  small  towns  in  that 
county,  one  man  raised  this  year  two  water-melons  from  one  vino  that  weighed,  the 
one  sixty,  and  the  other  fifty  pounds. 

"At  the  Agricultural  Exhibition,  held  there  last  September,  the  fine  grapes  which 
I  have  mentioned  were  on  exhibition.  At  the  same  time  there  was  exhibited  a  stalk 
of  cotton  containing  three  hundred  and  seven  forms ;  a  radish  measuring  eighteen 
inches  in  circumference ;  a  sunflower  head  thirty-six  inches ;  and  a  monster  caster- 
bean  stalk ;  a  sweet  potato-vine  five  feet  and  a  half  long ;  and  one  Isabelhv  grape- 
vine twenty-five  feet  long.  One  man  had  in  his  garden  trees  which  in  six  months 
grew  as  follows  i 


ft.  lu. 


ft.  is. 

Almond 1  2 

IViuh S  0 

I'eara 0  0 


Washington  Plum 8  t> 

Applivlrwn <1  f 

AprlcoU 7  0 

liga 7  0. 

"In  climate,  Washington  embraces  all  the  varieties  from  frigid  to  torrid,  from 
regions  of  peri)etual  frost  to  an  eternal  spring.  Every  kind  of  out-door  work,  plow- 
ing, ditching,  building,  etc.,  can  be  jmrsued  throughout  winter  in  some  parts  of  the 
county,  while  in  others  there  arc  killing  frosts  throughout  tlie  whole  year. 

"I  had  almost  forgotten  to  mention  that  tho  soil  is  excellent  for  the  grape,  and 
during  the  present  year  very  fine  tobacco  has  been  grown  there,  as  well  as  madder 
and  indigo.  Tlie  sorghum  raised  there  has  a  mognificcnt  flavor,  and  without  tho 
'patent  fixings,' witli  very  little  labor,  and  that  of  the  simplest  character,  good  sugar 
is  made  from  it.  At  tho  late  exhibition  the  sorglium  took  the  two  highest  prizes. 
I  believe  the  lionorablc  member  from  Washington  has  broiiglit  witli  him  a  few  pal- 
Ions  of  this  very  fin('  molasses  as  a  radeau  to  the  rrojjhet.  To  readers  wlio  liave  ev- 
ery luxuiy  in  abundance  and  at  very  moderate  figures,  these  items  may  luive  little 
interest,  but  to  tliose  who  watch  tlio  progress  of  the  people  here,  and  the  rcclaininig 
of  tlie  desert,  this  information  has  great  significance.  In  a  few  years  every  thing 
that  the  jieople  require  will  bo  raised  from  their  own  soil,  and  manufactured  by  their 
own  hands.  ,      ,,        , 

"  Mr.  Crosby,  from  whom  I  elicited  these  facta,  was  horn  in  Indiana,  but  'brought 
up'  in  the  Southern  States.  Murmonism  got  hold  of  liim  in  1843,  in  the  State  of 
Mississippi.  Following  the  fortunes  of  Krigham,  he  brought  some  nine  or  ten  slaves, 
'very  select  niggers.'    In  1851  be  went  over  to  San  Bernardino,  and  was  bishop 


Chap.  VI.  COUNTIES  IN  UTAH  TERRITORY.— COAL. 


298 


11.  Millard  County :  chief  town,  whicli  is  also  the  capital  of 
Utah  Territory,  Fillmore,  in  N.  lat.  38°  58'  40",  in  a  central  posi- 
tion, 152  miles  S.  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  600  miles  E.  of  San 
Francisco,  and  1200  miles  W.  of  St.  Louis.  The  sum  of  $20,000 
was  expended  upon  public  buildings,  but  the  barrenness  of  the 
soil  has  reduced  the  population  from  100  to  a  dozen  families. 

12.  Green  Eiver  County :  Fort  Supply. 

13.  Cedar  County :  chief  town  Cecfor  City.  It  is  built  upon 
an  old  Aztecan  foundation,  rich  in  pottery  and  other  remains. 

14.  Malad  County:  chief  town  Fort  Malad,  properly  so  called 
from  its  slow,  brackish,  and  nauseous  river. 

15.  Cache  County,  the  granary  of  Mormonland,  and  the  most 
fertile  spot  in  the  Great  Basin ;  well  settled  and  much  valued : 
chief  town  Cache  Valley,  80  miles  N. 

16.  Beaver  County :  chief  town  Beaver  Creek,  220  miles  S. 

17.  Shambip  County :  Eich  Valley  and  Deep  Creek. 

18.  Salt  Lake  Islands. 

19.  St.  Mary's  County :  west  of  Shambip  City,  extending  to 
the  Humboldt  Eiver ;  chief  settlement.  Deep  Creek. 

I  found  it  impossible  to  arrive  at  a  true  estimate  of  the  popu- 
lation. Like  the  earlier  English  numberings  of  the  people,  which 
originated  in  bitter  political  controversies — the  charge  of  unfair- 
ness was  brought  as  late  as  1831  against  the  enumerators  in  Ire- 
land— the  census  is  a  purely  party  measure.  The  Mormons, 
desiring  to  show  the  100,000  persons  which  entitle  them  to  claim 
admission  as  a  state  into  the  Union,  are  naturally  disposed  to  ex- 
aggerate their  numbers;  they  are,  of  course,  accused  of  "cooking 
up"  schedules,  of  counting  cattle  as  souls,  and  of  making  every 
woman  a  mother  in  esse  as  in  2>osse.  On  the  other  hand,  the  anti- 
over  there.  The  state  soon  liberated  the  ebony  folks,  and  Mr.  Crosby,  of  course,  lost 
his  19000  or  #10,000  by  the  operation. 

"The  Superintendent  of  the  Church  Public  Works  and  a  few  others  went  out  ex- 
ploririK  for  coal  about  the  Weber  some  time  in  August  Inst,  and  found  a  splendid 
bed  of  mineral.  It  promises  to  be  the  greatest  blessing  that  has  yet  fallen  to  the  lot 
of  the  Saints.  Of  course  I  do  not  look  at  things  with  '  an  eye  of  faith ;'  that  is  their 
business.  But  among  people  i)aying  $10  per  cord  for  wood,  scarce  at  that,  and  sure 
to  be  scarcer,  the  discovery  of  coal  is  an  important  matter.  The  present  coal-bed  is 
about  fifty  miles  distant ;  but,  nevertheless,  paying  fa  jier  ton  at  the  mouth  of  the 
pit,  at  wiiich  it  is  now  sold,  it  can  be  brought  into  the  city  and  sold  for  $20.  Last 
year  it  was  sold  hero  to  blacksmiths  for  $40.  The  Pacific  Railroad  folks  should 
liave  on  eye  on  this.  The  apprehension  that  the  absence  of  coal  and  wood  in  the 
Territory  would  bo  a  serious  obstacle  need  not  now  exist.  Though  the  wood  is 
Bcarco  and  high  priced  as  an  article  of  daily  household  consumption,  railroad  com- 
panies can  get  all  the  lumber  tliey  require  for  money,  though  they  mav  have  to  haul 
it  fur  and  i)ay  a  good  price  for  it.  I  believe  that  the  whole  country  is  full  of  coal, 
and  wliat  is  not  coal  is  gold  and  silver ;  but  I  earnestly  hope  tliat  the  day  is  far  dis- 
tant  before  the  Mormons  or  any  Iwdy  else  discover  the  jn-ecious  metals.  The  coal 
discovery,  however,  is  very  important.  The  bishops  of  tlie  city  have  been  instructed 
to  urge  upon  their  flocks  the  hauling  of  it,  and  it  is  hoped  that  by  constant  travel 
the  snow  will  be  kept  down  and  the  roads  dear  all  the  winter.  A  Scotch  miner, 
who  had  just  returned  from  the  coal-bed,  told  me  the  otiier  day  that  it  far  exceeded 
any  thing  that  he  had  ever  seen  in  his  own  country,  or  in  the  States,  both  in  quality 
and  abundance." 


! 


V:  %f 


•«ti 


u . 


'■'■si 


294 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


Mormons  are  as  naturally  inclined  to  underestimate :  moreover, 
as  the  "  census  marshals"  receive  but  three  halfpence  per  head, 
they  are  hy  no  means  disposed  to  pay  a  shilling  for  the  trouble 
of  ransackmg  every  ranch  and  kanyon  where  tne  people  repair 
for  grazing  and  other  purposes.  The  nearest  approach  to  truth 
•will  probably  be  met  by  assuming  the  two  opposite  extremes, 
and  by  "splitting  the  difference." 

In  1849  Mr.  Kelly  estimated  the  Mormons  to  be  "  about  5000 
inhabitants  in  the  town,  and  7000  more  in  the  settlements,"  In 
1850  the  seventh  official  census  of  the  United  States  numbered  the 
inhabitants  of  Utah  Territory  at  11,354  free +26  slaves =11,380 
souls.  In  1858  the  Saints  were  reckoned  at  25,000  by  the  Gen- 
tiles, and  30,000  to  35,000  by  Mr.  O.  Pratt,  in  the  ""Seer."  In 
1854  Dr.  S.  W.  Eichards  estimated  the  number  at  "  probably  from 
40,000  to  50,000"  in  the  United  States,  and  in  Great  Britain  at 
29,797.  In  1856  the  Mormon  census  gave  76,335  souls.  I  sub- 
join a  synopsis  of  the  official  papers.*  In  1858  the  Peace  Com- 
missioners sent  to  Utah  Territory  reported  that  the  Saints  did  not 
exceed  40,000  to  50,000  souls,  half  of  them  foreigners,  and  that 
they  could  bring  7000  men,  of  whom  1000  were  valuable  for  cav- 
alry, into  the  field.  In  1859  M.  Remy  made  the  number  of  Saints 
in  Utah  Territory,  not  including  Nevada,  80,000  souls,  and  the  to- 
tal in  the  world  186,000.  The  last  official  census,  in  1860,  was 
taken  under  peculiar  disadvantages.     General  Burr,  of  the  firm 

♦  Tlie  following  is  a  condensed  Report  of  the  enumcmtion  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Utah  Territory,  taken  February,  185G: 


Counties. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

Great  Salt  Lake  County.... 

12,730 

13,074 

25,804 

Utah                        "     .... 

6,951 

7,G14 

14,505 

Davis                       "     .... 

4,7C5 

4,575 

9,340 

Weber                      "     .... 

3,480 

3,585 

7,071 

Iron                          "     .... 

2,474 

2,943 

5,417 

Tooele                       "     .... 

1,315 

1,G73 

2,988 

San  Teto                  "     .... 

1,110 

1,133 

2,243 

Juab                        "     .... 

807 

1,034 

1,841 

Box-Elder               "     .... 

822 

717 

1,539 

Washington             "     .... 

742 

778 

1,520 

Millard                     "     .... 

544 

512 

1,056 

Green  River            "     .... 

394 

345 

739 

Cedar                       "     .... 

312 

309 

681 

Malad                      "     .... 

259 

208 

407 

Cache                       "     .... 

240 

223 

403 

Beaver                     "     .... 

118 

12G 

244 

Shanibip                   "      .... 

83 

«4 

147 

Salt  Lake  Islands 

125 

85 

210 

37,277 

39,058 

70,335 

"  r.rcat  Suit  Ijike  City,  JIarrh  Ist,  IWO. 
"I  do  hereby  certify  that  the  above  is  a  correct  enumeration  of  the  white  inhab- 
itants of  Utah  Territory,  according  to  the  reports  furnished  by  my  assistants,  and 
which  arc  now  on  file  in  my  office.  Leonard  W.  Haudy,  Census  Agent." 

"  fJreut  Salt  Lake  City,  September  liitli,  1880. 
"The  above  is  a  correct  transcrijjt  from  the  originnls  on  file  in  the  Historian's 
Offlce.  T110.MA8  Bullock,  Clerk." 


Chap.  VT. 


POPULATION  OF  UTAH  TERBITORY. 


295 


of  Hockaday  and  Burr,  -was  appointed  to  that  duty  by  Mr.  Dotson, 
the  anti-Mormon  federal  marshal.  But  as  the  choice  excited  loud 
murmurs,  the  task  was  committed  to  a  clerk  in  the  general's  store, 
and  deputies  for  the  rest  of  the  Territory  were  similarly  chosen. 
The  consequence  is  that  the  Gentile  marshal's  census  of  1860  of- 
fers a  number  of  40,266  free+29  slaves=a  total  of  40,295  souls; 
while  the  Mormons  assert  their  Territory  to  contain  from  90,000 
to  100,000,  and  the  world  to  hold  from  300,000  to  400,000  Saints. 
Their  rise  is  remarkable,  even  if  we  take  the  statistics  of  the  ene- 
my, which  show  nearly  a  quadrupling  of  the  population  in  ten 
years,  while  Great  Britain  creeps  on  at  a  rate  of  about  ten  per 
cent. :  a  similar  increase  will  in  the  ninth  census  of  1870  give  in 
round  numbers  160,000  persons.  Utah  Territory  now  ranks  sec- 
ond in  the  eight  minor  states :  New  Mexico  (93,541)  and  District 
of  Columbia  (75,076)  take  precedence  of  it,  and  it  is  followed  by 
Colorado  (34,197),  Nebraska  (28,842),  Washington  (11,578),  Neva- 
da (6857),  and  Dakotah  (4839). 

I  have  vainly  attempted  to  discover  the  proportion  of  native 
Anglo- Americans  to  the  foreign-born.  The  late  Mr.  Stephen  A. 
Douglas,  who  was  supposed  to  know  and  to  befriend  the  Saints, 
asserted  it  to  be  one  to  ten.  This  will  not  hold  good  if  applied 
to  the  authorities,  and  if  it  fails  at  the  head  it  will  be  inapplicable 
to  the  baser  part  of  the  body  politic,  for  the  American  in  Mor- 
mondom  is  the  prophet,  president,  apostle,  bishop,  or  other  high 
dignitary  who  leavens  the  lump  of  ignorance  and  superstition 
kneaded  together  in  the  old  countries.  Of  the  thirteen  members 
of  the  Upper  House,  there  were,  in  1860,  ten  Americans,  two  En- 
glish, and  one  Irishman :  of  the  officers,  viz.,  secretary  and  his 
assistant,  sergeant-at-arms,  messenger,  fireman,  and  chaplain,  four 
were  Americans,  one  English,  and  one  Irishman.  The  members 
of  the  Lower  House,  twenty -six  in  number,  consisted  of  twenty- 
four  Americans  and  two  Englishmen,  including  the  speaker,  Mr. 
John  Taylor :  of  its  six  officers,  four  were  Americans,  one  En- 
glish, and  one  Scotchman.     Both  houses  were  thus  distributed : 


New  York 13 

Massachusetts....  G 

Vermont 5 

England 4 

Ohio 4 


Tennessee 3 

Kentucky 2 

New  Hampshire..  2 

Pennsylvania 2 

Indiana 2 


Ireland 2 

Scotland 1 

Isle  of  Man 1 

Virginia 1 

Rhode  Island  ....  I 


Grand  total 49 


The  Mormon  emigration  is  without  exception  the  most  inter- 
esting feature  in  their  scheme.  There  is  an  evident  selection  of 
species  in  the  supply :  a  man  must  be  superior  to  many  in  "  grit" 
and  energy  who  voluntarily  leaves  his  native  land.  As  regards 
the  national  classification  of  the  converts,  it  may  be  observed  that 
the  supply  depends  upon  the  freedom  of  religious  discussion  at 
home.  Great  Britain  supplies  five  times  more  than  all  the  rest 
of  the  world,  excepting  Denmark.    France  must  be  proselytized 


r 

1        ', 

L 

H 

■  i'% 

P 

H  i" ' 

in 

• 

' 


M  • 


iir 


296 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Ciur.  VI. 


through  the  Channel  Islands,  and  there  are-  few  converts  of  the 
Latin  race,  which  speaks  a  strange  language,  and  is  too  much  at- 
tached to  the  soil  for  extensive  colonization.  Sweden  sends  forth 
few  (67) — a  fine  of  twenty-six  rix-dollars  has  there  been  imposed 
upon  all  who  harbor,  let  rooms  to,  or  hold  to  service  a  Mormon ; 
Denmark  supplies  many  (502),  because  the  Constitution  of  1849 
guaranteed  to  her  religious  liberty ;  Switzerland  is,  after  a  fashion, 
Republican;  Germany  gives  the  fewest.  Propagandism  has  not 
yet  been  thoroughly  organized  east  of  Father  Rhine ;  moreover, 
the  Teuton,  whose  faith  is  mostly  subordinate  to  his  fancy,  finds 
superior  inducements  to  settle  while  passing  through  the  Eastern 
States,  All  the  "  diverts"  long  retain  their  motherlandish  char- 
acteristics, and,  associating  together,  are  often  unable  to  understand 
tLo  English  sermon  at  the  Tabernacle.  The  work  of  proselytiz- 
ing is  slow  in  the  United  States ;  the  analytic  Anglo-American 
prefers  the  role  of  knave  to  that  of  fool,  besides  ur\  saint  n^ est  pas 
nonore  dans  son  pays,  upon  the  principle  that  no  man  is  a  hero  to 
his  valet.  At  Great  Salt  Lake  Citv  I  saw  neither  Kanaka,  Hin- 
doo, nor  Chinese ;  these  "  exotics  have  probably  withered  out 
since  the  days  of  M.  Remy ;  only  one  negro  met  my  sight,  and 
though  a  few  Yutas,  principally  Weber  River,  were  seen  in  the 
streets,  none  of  them  had  Mormonized. 

Emigration  in  Mormondom,  like  El  Hajj  in  El  Islam,  is  the  ful- 
fillment of  a  divine  command.  As  soon  as  the  Saints  could  af- 
ford it,  they  established,  under  the  direction  of  the  First  Presi- 
dency, a  fund  for  importing  poor  converts,  appointed  a  committee 
for  purchasing  transports,  and  established  in  Europe  and  elsewhere 
agents,  who  collected  $5000  in  the  first,  and  $20,000  in  the  second 
year.  In  September,  1850,  a  committee  of  three  ofiicers  was  ap- 
pointed to  transact  the  business  of  the  poor  fund,  and  an  ordi- 
nance was  passed  incorporating  the  "  Perpetual  Emigration  Fund 
Company,"  consisting  of  thirteen  members,  including  the  First 
President.  The  Saint  whose  passage  is  thus  defrayed  works  out 
his  debt  in  the  public  ateliers  of  the  Tithing  Office  Department, 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  Third  President;  he  is  supplied 
with  food  from  the  "  Dcser«:jt  Store,"  and  receives  half  the  value 
of  his  labor,  besides  which  a  tithe  of  his  time  and  toil  is  free. 
The  anti-Mormons  declare  that  by  this  means  the  faces  of  the  poor 
are  ground :  I  doubt  that  so  far-seeing  a  people  as  the  Mormons 
would  attempt  so  suicidal  a  policy. 

According  to  the  late  agent  at  Liverpool,  and  publisher  of  the 
"Millennial  Star,"  Dr.  S.  W.  Richards  (Select  Committee  on  Em- 
igrant Ships,  1854,  No.  12,  p.  8),  the  Mormon  emigration,  under 
its  authorized  agent  and  pa.ssenger-broker,  is  better  regulated  than 
under  the  provisions  of  the  Passengers'  Act;  the  sexes  are  berthed 
apart,  and  many  home  comforts  are  provided  for  the  emigrants. 
In  1854  it  was  estimated  not  to  exceed  3000  souls  per  annum,  and 
of  2600  the  English  were  1430,  250  Welsh,  200  Scotch,  and  about 


Chap.  VI, 


MORMON  EMIGRATION. 


297 


a  score  of  Irish,  making  a  total  of  1900  Britons  to  700  from  the 
Continent.  The  classes  preferred  by  the  Fund  are  agriculturists 
and  mechanics — the  latter  being  at  a  premium — moral,  industri- 
ous, and  educated  people,  "qualified  to  increase  and  enhance  the 
interest  of  the  community  they  go  among,"  From  Liverpool, 
whence  all  the  emigration  proceeds,  to  New  Orleans,  the  passage- 
money  varied  from  £B  12s.  6d.  to  £4,  and  from  New  Orleans  to 
Great  Salt  Lake  City  £20  each.  Of  late  years  that  line  has  been 
abandoned  as  unhealthy :  the  route  now  lies  by  rail  through  New 
York  and  Chicago  to  Florence,  on  the  Missouri  Eiver.  The  emi- 
gration season  is  January,  February,  and  March,  and  the  passage 
can  be  made  at  the  quickest  in  twenty-two  days, 

I  now  proceed  to  figures,  which  are  given  in  full  detail,  and 
can  easily  be  verified  by  a  reference  to  Liverpool,  The  official 
reports  are  subjoined,  because  they  speak  well  for  Mormon  ac- 
curacy,*    From  1840-54:  they  reckon  17,195  souls,  and  from 

♦    No,  I.— List  of  Latter-Day  Saints'  Emigration  from  January  6th,  1851,  to 

May  Utli,  18G1, 


Date  of  Sailins. 


1851,  January  6..,. 

"  22.. 
February  2... 
March  4 , 

1852,  January  10.. 
February  10., 
March  6 

1853,  January  17.. 

"        23... 

February  5..., 
"  15.., 
"        28.., 

March  2G 

April  G 


1854,  January  22 ., 

February  4... 

"         22.. 

March  5 

"      12 

April  4 

"    8 

"    24 


November  27. 

1855,  January  6 

"       7 

'«       9 


"        17.., 

February  3.,., 

"         27., 

March  31 

April  17 

"    22 

"    2C,. ..'..'.. 

June  29 

November  30. 


Vessel. 


Ellen 

G.W.  Bourne 

Ellen  Maria 

Olympus 

Kennebec 

Ellen  Maria 

Rockaway 

Ellen  Maria 

Golconda 

Jersey 

Elvira  Owen 

International 

Falcon 

Camillus 

(Miscellaneous)... 
Benjamin  Adams., 

Golconda 

Windermere 

Old  England 

John  M.Wood,,.. 

Germanicus 

Marshfield 

Clara  Wheeler.... 
(Miscellaneous)... 
Clara  Wheeler,... 

Rockaway 

James  Nesmith... 

Neva 

Charles  Buck 

Isaac  Jeans 

Siddons 

Jurenta 

Chimborazo 

Samuel  Curling... 
William  Stetson... 

Cynosure 

Emerald  Isle 


Captain. 


Phillips.... 
Williams.. 
Whitmore. 

Wilson 

Smith , 

Whitmore., 


Whitmore., 

Kerr , 

Day 

Owen 

Brown 

Wade 

Day 


Drummond. 

Kerr 

Fairfield 

Barstow 

Hartley 

Fales 

Torrey 

Nelson 


Nelson.... 

Mills 

Goodwin , 
Brown..,. 
Smallcy.,, 
Chipman . 
Taylor.... 

Watts 

Vesper.... 
Curling... 
lordan ,,. 

Pray 

Cornish,,. 


No.  of  Souls, 


4Gti 
281 
378 
245 
333 
3G9 

30 
332 
321 
314 
845 
425 
324 
228 

23 

6 

4G4 

477 

45 
393 
220 
3GG 

29 

34 
422 
440 

24 

13 
403 

16 
430 
573 
431 
581 
293 
1.59 
350 


'  M  , 


U.lii 


Mi 


298 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  VI. 


1854-55,  4716  souls ;  the  total  in  fifteen  years  (1840-55)  being 
21,911.     From  1855-56  they  number  4395  souls,  and  from  the 


No.  I. — Continued. 


Date  of  Sailing. 


1855,  December  12., 
1866,  February  19.. 

March  23 

April  19 

May  4 

Mny  25 

June  1 


November  17. 

1857,  March  28 

April  25 

May  30 


July  18.. .. 
1859,  April  11... 

July  10.... 

August  20. 
1  SCO,  March  .30.. 

Mav  U.... 


18G1,  April  15, 
"     2'' 
May  15. 


Vessel. 


John  J.Boyd 

Caravan 

Enoch  Train 

S.  Curling 

Tiiornton 

Horizon 

Wellfloet 

(Miscellaneous  Ships). 

Columbia 

George  Washington. .. 

Westmoreland 

Tuscorora 

(Miscellaneous) 

Wyoming 

William  Tapscott 

Antarctic 

Emerald  Isle 

Underwriter 

William  Tapscott 

(M  iscellancous) 

Manchester 

Underwriter 

Monarch  of  the  Sea... 


Austin 

W.A.  Sands. 
H.  P.  Rich.... 

S.  Curling 

Collins 

Reed 

Westcott 


Captain. 


Hutchinson.... 
J.  S.  Comings. 
R.  R.  Decan... 
Dunlery 


Brooks 

J.  B.  Bell. 


Cornish 

J.  W.  Rol)crt8. 
J.B.Bell 


Trask 

J.  W.  Roberts . 

Gardner 

Total 


No.  of  Souls. 


512 

457 

534 

707 

7G4 

85G 

14C 

C9 

223 

817 

544 

647 

50 

3G 

725 

80 

54 

694 

731 

2G3 

379 

024 

950 


21,195 


"  Latter-Day  Sutnta'  Euro|M'an  PiibllKlilnfj  and  Rniigration  OfBce,) 
"  42  Inllngton,  l.lverpcxil.  j 

"The  nliovo  arc  the  numbers  of  the  Lattcr-Dny  Saints  who  have  taken  passage  on 
ships  chartered  at  this  port  by  the  Church  Emigration  Agent.  Besides  these,  there 
are  many  who  engage  passages  at  other  oftices— not  licing  able  to  arrange  their  affairs 
to  go  when  we  have  ships  cliartcrcd— whose  nnml)crs  we  do  not  have.  The  bulk  of 
our  emigration,  for  the  past  few  vcars,  has  left  here  in  the  spring.  This  is  the  only 
time  we  have  ships  chartered,  'riie  scattering  few  wlio  go  over  in  the  summer  anil 
autumn,  with  the  intention  of  remaining  in  the  United  States  until  another  spring, 
wo  do  not  keep  any  account  of.  Gto.  Q  Cannon." 

No.  U.—(ifneral  Summary  of  Kmi/fration,  from  Nov.  SOlh,  1855,  to  Julij  Glli,  185G. 
(It  wat  discoiitinueil  in  1858,  owiny  to  trouble*  with  the  (/.  S.  Government.) 


Ship. 

Captain. 

Prf  »i,ltnt  of 
Cumpany. 

Pntr  of 
Balling. 

P.iil  of  IM^ 
•nibaikatloD. 

1 

1 

1 

SftO 
M) 
4.')I 
M14 
"01  1 
TM  , 
s.'>fl 
146 

00 

Knjvralil  lull' — 

,Iohn.!  Ikiyd 

Caravan 

Kjioch  Train. . . . 

«.  CurllnK 

Thoniton 

llorUon 

\\>lltl.*t 

Mbmillanpuiia  ) 
Bhipa  (U.K.  it 

(J.  1'.  Cornlnh.. 

Aiiatin 

W,  A.  H«nda. . . 

II.  I'.ltUli 

H.  CiirltnK 

Colllna 

IKwd 

WeatooM 

I'.  C.  Mrrrlll  . . 
* '.  I'ctcrnon  . . . 

1».  Tyli-r 

■1.  KerKiiaon  . . . 

I).  Jonpii 

,1.(1  Wllllo... 

K.Martin 

J.  Aubray 

Nov.  lUI,  t8'5.. 
Dpr.  11!,  IWift.. 
Fl'll   111,  IHNl.  . 
Mnr  9;i,  \m\. 
April  111,  I^IW. 
Mhv  U,  IhWI.. 
May2M««J.. 
.Iune1,ls6«.. 

New  Yott.. 
Now  York.. 
Now  ^ork. . 

ItoKlon 

Hi«t»n 

New  York.. 

IloDtim 

Itoatou 

Total.. 

114 

4:'ii 

4SS 
4t>4 
C8ft 

8Mt 
•ITS 

4r>7 

ll'll 
V7» 

VHII 

14(1 
00 

«8*f 

)fl)l« 

4WI6 

Of  this  numltcr,  as  the  tabic  showa,  2012  nre  V.  K.  Fund  pMnenKem,  of  whom  88S 
were  ordered  out  by  their  frientlB  in  Utixh ;  also  7H0  menibira  of  many  years'  stanc'- 
ing  in  the  (^htirch  have  \tccn  forwarded  to  Utah  iiiuler  the  I',  E.  Fund  Co. 's  arrange- 
ments, and  28  are  elders  returning  home  fnmi  miasiuns.  Wo  have  n^it  the  means 
of  ueertuiiiinir  deflnitelv.  but  tho  anuroxiinatu  uumbon  of  thono  who  started  to  co 


Chap.  VI. 


MORMON  EMIGRATION. 


299 


1st  of  July,  1857,  to  the  30th  of  June,  1860,  Ihey  count  2433, 
making  for  the  five  subsequent  years  (1855-60)  a  total  of  6828. 
Thus,  in  the  twenty  years  between  1840-60,  they  show  a  grand 

through  to  Utah  on  their  own  means  is  385,  making  a  total  of  those  who  started 
from  here,  with  the  intention  of  going  through  to  the  Valley  this  season,  about  2397, 
which  will  leave  1998  who  have  located  for  the  present  in  various  parts  of  the  United 
States,  in  order  to  obtain  means  to  complete  their  journey  whenever  circumstances 
will  jjcrmit. 

iMtter-Day  Saints'  E.nvjration  Report,  from  July  \st,  1857,  to  June  30,  18G0. 


Ship. 

Capttin. 

President  of 
Couipuny 

Port  of 
Embarka- 
tion, 

Date  of 
Sailing. 

Port  of 

Dl<'  mbark- 

ation. 

u 

0. 

54 

1 
IT 

72 

j 

196 

140 
128 

464 

149 

100 
246 

M 

i 

320 

80 

64 

34T 

.140 

263 

;3g6 

i 

Sfi 

725 

80 

64 

694 

731 

203 
2483 

Wyoming 

Wm.Tapacott 

Antarctic 

Emerald  Isle. 
Underwriter . 
Wm.  Tapscott 
Miscellnne-  ) 
ous  iihips  j 

—  Brooka  . . . 
J.  B.  Bell. . . . 

—  Cornish. . . 
J.  W.  Roberts 
J.  B.  Koll. . . . 

Clias.  Ilarman. 
liobt.  F.  Nealcn 
Jna.  Chaplow.. 
Henry  llugg.. 
Jas.  I ).  UosB . , . 
.Vaa  Calkin 

IJverpool 
Liverpool 
Liverpool 
Liverpool 
Liverpool 
Liverpool 

July  18,185T 
Apr.  11,1859 
July  10, 1850 
Aug.  2(1, 1859 
Mar.  30,1860 
May  11, 1060 

I'hiladel. 
N.  York.. 
N.  York.. 
N.  York.. 
N.  York.. 
N.  York.. 

.... 

Of  this  number,  as  the  table  shows,  1037  purposed  going  through  to  Utah  under 
P.  E.  Fund,  hand-cart,  and  team  arrangements.  But  we  have  good  cause  to  pre- 
sume that  a  large  number  of  those  who  left  here  with  the  intention  of  settling  for  a 
short  time  in  the  States  (and  are  included  in  the  table  under  that  head)  have  also 
gone  through  to  Utah,  without  settling  on  the  way. 

Tlie  number  of  natives  of  the  various  countries  may  bo  classified  as  follows :  From 
the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland— English,  1074;  Scotch,  126; 
Welsh,  173;  Irish,  12.  The  total  number  from  the  Scandinavian  Mission  is  7C2, 
of  which  there  arc  528  Danes,  193  Swedes,  and  41  Norwegians.  The  total  number 
from  the  Swiss  and  Italian  Mission  is  21 1,  of  which  209  are  from  the  Swiss  Cantons, 
and  2  from  Italjr.  Tlicre  are  also  2  French,  3  Germans,  and  70  elders  returning 
homo  from  missions,  making  a  grand  total,  as  per  table,  of  2433  souls. 

Coun«nes.—Tlio, number  of  natives  of  the  various  countries  may  bo  classified  as 
follows : 

England 2611 

(Principal  counties — Lancashire, 
Yorkshire,  and  Stailbrilshire.) 

iScotland ,%7 

Wales (507 

Jili 3645 

Irelond 54 

America \^ 

French  Mission  (Channel  Islands)...      9 

Denmark )  |    r.05 

Sweden >  Scandinavion \     67 

Norway )  (      43 

Swiss  Contons 19 

PiednKmt,  Italy 81 

East  India  Mission 3 

Germany 1 


Total. 


-750 
.4395  soqIii. 


The  emigration  in  1861  is  progressing  sntisfactorily,  as  tho  following  extract 
proves : 

"A  party  of  Mormonitrs,  consisting  of  17  men,  25  women,  and  11  children,  left 
lionilon  lately  by  tho  Nortliwestpm  Uailwoy  for  LivcrjKJol,  en  rmite  for  tho  Salt  Lake 
settlement.  Tho  emigrolion  of  M  jrmonitfls  from  Great  Britain,  pBrliriilarly  from 
tho  southern  district  of  Wales,  lias  during  the  post  ten  weeks  Iwen  on  a  largo  scale. 
Their  number  ombracci  all  classes ;  one  Kcntleman.  an  inhabitant  of  Morthvr.  Gl«. 


I  \» 


300 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


total  of  28,739  immigrants.  Ttey  expect  for  the  present  year  an 
emigration  of  1500  to  2000  souls  from  the  British  Isles,  independ- 
ent of  some  hundreds  from  the  Scandinavian,  Swiss,  and  other 
missions.  Already  200  teams  have  been  dispatched  from  Great 
Salt  Lake  City  to  assist  with  transport  and  provisions  the  poor 
emigrants  from  Florence.  The  Holy  Land  of  the  West  would 
soon  be  populous  were  it  not  for  two  obstacles :  first,  the  expense 
and  difficulty  of  the  outward  journey;  secondly,  the  facility  of 
emigration  to  the  gold  regions  of  Pikers  Peak  and  the  silver  mines 
of  the  Nevada. 

The  London  Conference  has  seventeen  places  of  worship,  and 
numbers  a  little  over  2000  men,  scattered  throughout  Great  Brit- 
ain. In  these  isles  there  is  a  general  Presidency  of  the  Church, 
assisted  by  a  counselor :  these  preside  over  the  pastors  or  presi- 
dents of  districts,  ten  in  number,  who  also,  assisted  by  counselors 
in  their  turu,  direct  and  counsel  the  presidents  of  the  twenty-four 

moi -ran^hirc,  liavinR  contributed  XIOOO,  nntl  joined  the  'brethren,'  200  of  whom,  in- 
cl'-Jing  an  old  woman  upward  of  eighty  years  of  age,  have  just  left  Wales." 

No.  III.— Latter-Day  Saints'  Emigration,  Sprinrj  of  18G1. 

42  Islington,  Liverpool,  Juno  20th,  18C1. 
Tor  Ship  Underwriter,  Captain  Roberts. 
Mnlcs.  Femnlcs. 


Per  Ship  Manchester,  Captain  Frask. 

Malcit.  Fomiilea. 

Knplish 132       124 

Scotch 3  2 

Irish 2  0 

Welsh 54        67 

Danes 5  0 

Americans 1      _  0 

107       183 


English 234  278 

Scotch 82  43 

Irish 3  .  0 

Welsh IG  14 

Norwegian 1  0 

Americans 8  0 

289  836 


Per  Ship  Monarch  of  the  Sea,  Captain  Gardner. 


MalPK.  FemalPB. 

English 07  105 

Scotch 25  27 

Irish 2  I 

Welsh 17  17 

Oerman 1  0 

Swiss 40  48 

Carried  forword...  182  108 


Males.  Females. 

Brought  for^vard  ...  182  108 

Italian 1  3 

French 1  2 

Danish 175  210 

Norwegian 24  43 

Swedish _Gl  C8 

Total 444  624 


Summary, 

Mnlnii.  Femalei. 

English 403  607 

Scotch CO  72 

Irish 7  1 

Welsh 87  88 

German 1  0 

Swiss 40  48 

Italian .*...       1  3 

French 1  2 

Danes 180  210 

Swedes CI  08 

Norwegians 25  43 

Americans 4  0 

08U  lOi'J 


ToUU 
070 
132 
8 
175 

1 

88 

4 

8 

800 

120 

G8 

4 


1285 


CRT 


io7a=iit7a 


Chap.  VI. 


MORMON  POLITY.— MEETING  ECOMS. 


301 


Conferences,  while  these  superintend  the  presidents  of  the  400 
branches.    The  total  of  members  in  the  whole  European  mission 

is  not  less  than  40,000.     I  subjoin  a  list  of  the  various  places 

kindly  furnished  to  me  by  an  influential  Saint— which  the  Mor- 
mons have  selected  for  worship  in  London.* 

Two  points  in  this  subject  are  truly  remarkable.  The  first  is 
the  difference  between  Utah  Territory  and  all  other  Anglo-Scan- 
dinavian colonies,  in  which  males  are  usually  far  more  numerous 
than  females.  The  latter,  at  Utah,  by  the  census  of  1856,  are 
1781  in  excess  of  the  former ;  iJmost  as  great  a  disproportion  as 
the  extra  three  quarters  of  a  million  in  England.  The  second  is 
the  rapid  growth  of  the  New  Faith,  and  the  deep  hold  which  it 
has  taken  upon  Great  Britain.  Few.  Englishmen  are  aware  that 
their  metropolis  contains  seventeen  places  of  Mormon  worship, 
and  their  fatherland  an  army  of  4000  volunteer  missionaries.  In 
the  United  States  it  is  also  the  fashion  to  ignore  the  Mormons. 
The  subject,  however,  will  grow  in  importance,  and  it  is  easy  to 
predict  that  before  two  decades  shall  have  elapsed,  Deserdt,  unless 
sent  once  more  upon  her  travels,  will  have  forced  herself  into  the 
position  of  an  independent  state. 

^  The  Mormon  polity  is,  in  my  humble  opinion— based  upon  the 
fact  that  liberty  is  to  mankind  in  mass  a  burden  far  heavier  than 
slavery — the  perfection  of  government.  It  is  the  universal  suf- 
frage of  the  American  States,  tempered  by  the  despotism  of  Franco 
and  Russia:  in  moderate  England  men  have  nothing  of  it  but 
that  Tory-Eadicalism  to  which  che  few  of  extremest  opinions  be- 
long. At  the  semi-annual  Conferences,  which  take  place  on  the 
0th  of  April  and  tlie  6th  of  October,  and  last  for  four  days,  all 
ofFicers,  from  the  President  to  the  constable,  arc  voted  in  by  direc- 
tion and  counsel — i.  c,  of  the  Lord  through  his  Prophet ;  conse- 
quently, re-election  is  tlio  rule,  unless  the  chief  dictator  determine 
otherwise.    Every  adult  male  has  a  vote,  and  all  live  under  an 

*  iMtter-Dny  Snii.ls^  Meeting  Rooms  in  London  and  vicinity: 

Somera  7'oicn— Eiinton  Hall,  H  OoorRo  Street,  Ilampslcad  Road. 

Ihllioni — 14H  Ii()llM)rn,  near  Uiny's  Inn  Luno. 

(lom-ell  Hull — 40  (loswell  Street. 

llolhwuy — 1  Cornwall  I'lnee,  Ilollowny  Rond. 

1K/n7(;r/i(i/»c/— risKiih  (;impcl,  North  Street,  Sydney  Street,  Milo  End. 

Poplar — 2H  I'enny  Fields. 

Ihrkimj — Lntter-J)ay  SnintH'  Cimpel,  North  Street. 

J'luldinf/ton — Hoik;  Hnll.  Bcjl  Street. 

Chelsea — Lloyd'H  AoHeinldy  ItooniM,  I  Ooorpo  Street,  RIonno  Rqnnro. 

Sfieiiherd's  Hush~l,nttor-\h\\  Saint's  Clii\i>el,  Sheplierd'n  Hiish  Urcon. 

Camden  7«h/i— IJeuhili  Cottune,  KinK'»  Hoad,  Camden  Town. 

On  the  Surrey  Side  of  the  Tlmmes. 
Walworth  Common — Ltttter-Day  Saintu'  Mecllnj;  Room,  2  Kinp  Street,  Old  Kent  Road. 
Imtbeth—SX.  (leorRcs  Hull,  St.  (ienruo'H  Uoail,  near  the  Elephant  and  Castle. 
Ikjtlford — Lfttter-I)ay  SaintH*  Meeting  Ronni,  Tanner'H  Hill. 
Woolwii-h — Latter-Duy  Snints'  CIihih"!,  I'mspect  How. 
MW/tn//— httttor-l)ay  Saints'  Meeting  Room,  Wickluun  Lane,  near  Welling. 
Ehhaiii — Latter-l)av  Hainta'  Muutiiiir  Komii.  lU  Mr  .r   llnituV  1>..iii<,1  lM»nn 


l'.JiiL 


m-    • 


I 


'   f, 


!  I 


-'If 


S02 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


iron  sway.  Ilia  poor  single  vote — from  which  even  the  sting  of 
ballot  has  been  drawn — gratifies  the  dignity  of  the  man,  and  sat- 
isfies him  with  the  autocracy  which  directs  him  in  the  way  he 
should  go.  He  has  thus  all  the  harmless  pleasure  of  voting,  with- 
out the  danger  of  injuring  himself  by  his  vote.  The  reverse,  duly 
carried  out,  frees  mankind  from  king  and  kaiser,  and  subjects 
them  to  snobs  and  mobs.  Mormon  society  is  modeled  upon  a 
civilized  regiment :  the  Prophet  is  the  colonel  commanding,  and 
the  grades  are  nicely  graduated  down  to  the  last  neophyte  or  re- 
cruit. I  know  no  form  of  rule  superior  to  that  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
City ;  it  might  supply  the  author  of  "Happy  Years  at  Hand"  with 
new  ideas  for  the  "  Outlines  of  the  Coming  Theocracy."  It  ex- 
erts its  beneficial  effects  equally  upon  the  turbulent  and  inde- 
pendent American ;  the  sensible  and  self-sufficient  Englishman ; 
the  Frenchman,  ever  lusting  after  new  things ;  the  Switzer,  with 
his  rude  love  of  a  most  problematic  liberty ;  the  outwardly  cold, 
inwardly  fiery  Scandinavian ;  the  Italian,  ready  to  bow  down  be- 
fore any  practice,  with  the  one  proviso  that  it  must  be  successful; 
and  the  German,  who  demands  to  be  governed  by  theories  and 
Utopiani^ms,  "worked"  by  professors  "out  of  the  depths  of  their 
self-consciousness." 

The  following  description  of  a  Conference  is  extracted  at  length 
from  the  "  Daily  Missouri  Kepublican"  of  May  4,  I80I : 

Great  Salt  Lale  City,  April  12,  18G1. 

On  the  Gth  of  April,  1830,  in  a  small  room  about  fifteen  feet  square, 
in  the  town  of  Fayette,  Seneca  County,  New  York,  a  young  country 
lad — Joseph  Smith — and  five  other  persons  organized  that  movement 
now  known  tliroughout  Christendom  as  "  The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ 
of  Latter-Day  Saints,"  or  Mornionism.  How  tlie  units  have  each  in- 
creased to  tens  of  thousands,  and  where  those  disciples  have  been 
found,  and  how  they  have  been  converted,  is  not  the  task  I  assign 
myself.  I  assisted,  as  the  Frenchmen  say,  at  the  tliirty-first  annivcr- 
sary  Conference  of  that  obscure  movement,  and  ])roposo  to  give  the 
readers  of  the  "  Ilepublioan"  its  picture,  and  "notliing  extenuate  nor 
Bet  down  aught  in  maUce." 

Twice  a  year  the  Mormons  assemble  in  Conference,  on  the  Gtli  of 
April  and  on  the  Cth  of  October,  for  the  purpose  of  re-elootlng  their 
presiding  authorities,  or  making  such  changes  ainojig  them  as  are 
deemed  "  wisdom"  or  "  necessary" — tlio  chiefs,  also,  making  these  pe- 
riods seasonable  for  general  instruction  to  the  "body" — and  in  April 
electing  and  sending  out  missionaries  to  the  nations  of  the  earth, 
■where  INIormonism  is  flourishing,  or  where  the  New  Faith  has  yet  to 
bo  introduced. 

As  the  settlements  in  tin?  Territory  are  widely  scattered,  and  com- 
mimieation  between  them  rare — except  where  business  or  family  pur- 
poses invite — the  Conferetu-es  are  looked  forward  to  with  ])eculiar 
mterest  by  the  j)eoplo  generally  as  a  time  of  renewing  ac(|uaintanco 
and  friendship  with  those  they  have  known  and  been  associated  with 
in  the  Old  World.     To  this  add  the  curiositv  to  sec  and  hoar  ncrain 


Chap.  VI. 


THE  MORMON  CONFERENCE, 


303 


the  "Prophet"  and  his  associates,  and  the  influences  that  draw  the 
multitude  to  Conference  is  comprehended. 

Up  to  within  a  few  years  this  country  has,  I  am  told,*  been  rarely 
visited  by  shoAvers  of  rain,  the  husbandmen  depending  almost  entire- 
ly upon  the  melting  snows  of  the  mountains  for  irrigating  fields  and 
gardens.  Very  recently  the  snow  and  rain  had  fallen  in  great  abund- 
ance, and  the  mudd}  roads  were  rendered  almost  impassable.  Not- 
withstanding this  obstacle,  the  faithful  screwed  up  courage  and  trav- 
eled in  droves  from  every  part  of  the  Territory,  and  filled  the  streets 
of  the  city  during  Conference  like  a  county  fair. 

Early  on  Saturday  morning  the  carriages  and  wagons,  equestrians 
and  pedestrians,  thronged  into  the  city,  and  long  before  the  opening 
of  the  Tabernacle  doors  the  people  were  gathering  in  groups,  eager 
for  admission  to  obtain  a  good  seat,  fearing  the  general  rush.  On 
ibe  Sunday  preceding,  Brigham  had  requested  the  citizens  here  to 
stay  at  home,  and  aflTord  their  country  brethren  and  sisters  an  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  within  the  Tabernacle;  otherwise  there  would  have 
been  a  poor  show  for  the  strangers,  and  as  it  was  they  were  them- 
selves vastly  too  many  for  the  dimensions  of  the  building. 

TUB   CONFERENCE — FIRST  DAY — MORNING   SESSION. 

At  10  o'clock  there  were  on  the  stand,  according  to  technical  rank 
and  authority : 

Of  the  First  Presidency— Presidents  Brigham  Yountr,  Ilebcr  C. 
Kimball,  and  Daniel  II.  Wells. 

Of  the  Twelve  Apostles— Orson  Hyde,  Willford  Woodrufi;  John 
Taylor,  George  A.  Smith,  Ezra  T.  Benson,  Lorenzo  Snow,  and  Frank- 
lin D.Kiclmrds. 

Of  the  First  Presidency  of  the  Seventies- Joseph  Young,  Levi  W. 
Hancock,  Henry  Ilcrriman,  Zera  I'ulsiphcK,  Albert  P.Kockwood,  and 
Horace  S.  Eldrcdgc. 

Of  the  Presidency  of  the  High  Priests- Edwin  D.  Woolley  and 
Samuel  W.  Richards. 

Of  the  Presidency  of  the  Stake— Daniel  Spencer,  David  Fullmer, 
and  George  B.  Wallace. 

Of  the  Presidency  of  the  Bishopric — Edward  Hunter,  Leonard  W. 
Hardy,  and  Jesse  C.  Little. 

Of  the  Patriarchs — John  Smith  and  Isaac  Morlcy. 

Apostle  Hyde  called  the  meeting  to  order,  and  in  a  moment  all 
talking  was  hushed,  and  a  choir  of  about  a  dozen  jjcrsons,  accompa- 
nied by  a  fine-toned  organ  in  the  centre  of  the  building,  sung : 

Tho  mominR  brenks,  tho  slindows  flee, 

Lo !  Zioii's  stniulnrd  is  iinfitrkd  I 
Tlip  (Iiiwiiinc  of  a  hriglitor  dny 

Mnjcstic  rises  on  tlio  woiUl. 

Tlio  rloiulH  of  error  disappenr 

Hefore  the  rny«  of  tniili  divine ; 
Tlio  (ilory  bursting  from  iifiir, 

Wide  o'er  tlm  nuliniiH  noon  will  shine. 

•  Tlie  nrticlo  is  probubly  written  by  a  Mormon  elder.  It  U  the  fashion,  however, 
in  nowB|ia|ior  rorres])ondciire — ns  the  culiimns  of  the  "Now  York  Ilcrnld"  prove — 
to  uMumo  Gentilism  fur  the  nouco. 


.  ,4     -.111 


.■js'tl 


1/1 


5    •>' 


j^tm. 


'Hi 


804 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


Tho  Gentile  fullness  now  comes  in, 

And  Israel's  blessings  are  at  hand ; 
Lo !  Judah's  remnant,  cleansed  from  sin, 

Shall  in  their  promised  Canaan  stand. 

Jehovah  speaks !  let  earth  give  ear, 

And  Gentile  nations  turn  and  live ; 
His  mighty  arm  is  making  bare, 

His  cov'nant  people  to  receive. 

Angels  from  heaven  and  truth  from  earth 

Have  met,  and  both  have  record  borne ; 
Thus  Zion's  light  is  bursting  forth, 

To  bring  her  ransomed  children  home. 

Apostle  Lorenzo  Snow  oifcred  prayer,  and  the  choir  sung,  "Praise 
ye  the  Lord ;  'tis  good  to  praise." 

Apostle  Benson  was  first  invited  to  address  the  Conference.  "  Broth- 
er Ezra"  is  generally  called  a  son  of  thunder — great  preacher,  I  sup. 
pose.  On  this  occasion  he  aimed  at  being  modest,  and  after  express- 
ing his  gratitude  for  the  privilege  of  beuig  permitted  to  attend  Con- 
ference, to  come  and  see  tho  Prophet,  his  counselors,  and  the  twelve 
apostles,  and  the  good  brothers  and  sisters,  he  was  prepared  to  bear 
his  testimony.  _ 

He  knew  that  Joseph  Smith  was  a  prophet ;  that  Jus  predictions 
had  been  fulfilled,  and  were  daily  fulfilling,  to  the  joy  of  all  the  Saints. 
He  would  not  stop  there  in  his  testimony ;  he  would  bear  testimony 
to  the  teachings  of  President  Brigham  Young.  His  counselors— He- 
ber  C.  Kimbail  and  Daniel  H.  Wells— were  also  true  as  the  revela- 
tions of  Joseph,  and  he  rejoiced  in  them.  Oh,  what  a  joy  it  Avas  to 
know  that  they  had  such  men  to  lead  them !  What  would  be  the 
condemnation  of  those  who  rejected  their  testimony  ?  Ezra  was 
quite  serious-  "oa,  serious  to  shuddering. 

The  fearfulncss  of  apostasy  was  eloquently  portrayed.  False  spir- 
its attending  it,  and  false  revelations  bestowed  on  the  backslider,  and 
every  other  ugly,  disagreeable  business  was  the  certain  lot  of  the 
apostate,  and  from  which  the  brethren  Avere  decently  warned. 

President  Daniel  IL  Wells  was  much  pleased  with  the  Lattcr-Dsw 
work ;  it  was  a  groat  blessing  to  live  in  tho  light  of  the  Gospel.  It 
had  been  but  a  few  years  proclaimed  to  tho  world.  The  channel  of 
communication  between  heaven  and  earth  was  again  open  to  the  chil- 
dren of  men.  Brother  Wells  referred  to  the  state  of  tho  nation.  The 
)resent  trouble  was  tho  result  of  bad  treatment  to  the  Saints.  Tho 
)eople  of  (»od  had  been  driven  into  the  wilderness — thoiisands  might 
lave  perished,  and  the  government  was  inditrerent.  It  was  a  polit- 
ical axiom,  tliat  when  governments  ceased  to  protect,  the  people  were 
released  from  their  obligations.  Tho  government  had  never  protect- 
ed the  Saints  as  other  citizens.  They  liad  been  driven  from  place  to 
place,  and  tho  murderers  of  Joseph  Smith  had  gone  unpunished.  Fault 
had  been  found  with  tho  Mormons  because  they  had  asked  the  gov- 
ernment to  .aj)point  good  men  as  federal  oftlcers — men  in  whom  they 
had  confidence.  They  were  for  this  called  rebels ;  but  they  were 
prol)abIy  the  only  people  that  would  yet  stand  by  tho  Constitution 
and  tjphold  it. 

Tho  Kovornmont  had  fallen  in  tho  oyos  of  tho  civilized  world ;  it 


Chap.  VI. 


TUE  MORMON  CONFERENCE. 


305 


liad  become  corrupt  and  debased.  Nowadays  nobody  expected  any 
thing  from  public  servants  but  corruption.  These  thincrs\vere  well 
known  to  every  body.  The  Saints  had  been  molested  and  could  aet 
no  redress.  The  Prophet  Joseph,  moved  by  the  Spirit  of  the  Most 
High,  told  their  enemies  there  that  they  would  see  mobbing  to  their 
heart's  content,  for  the  measure  that  they  meted  to  the  Saints  should 
be  meted  to  them  back  again. 

The  Saints  could  now  see  the  distracted  state  of  the  nations,  and 
the  confusion  of  all  governments.  If  they  were  wise  men  and  wom- 
en, they  would  appreciate  the  blessed  inheritance  that  the  Lord  had 
brought  them  to.  He  had  but  one  request  to  make,  and  that  was, 
that  tlie  people  should  not  only  believe  in  the  coimselings  of  Presi- 
dent Young,  but  be  diligent,  and  see  that  his  counseling  prospered. 

1  resident  Heber  C.Kimball  got  up  with  the  invocation  of  "God 
bless  the  Saints,  and  peace  be  multiplied  unto  them."  He  respected 
and  loved  good  men  and  women  Avho  were  striving  to  do  the  Avill  of 
Heaven.  The  Mormons  were  united,  and  he  wanted  them  to  con- 
tinue so,  and  be  of  one  heart  and  of  one  mind,  and  to  do  as  they  were 
told.  The  South  had  seceded  from  the  North,  but  the  Mormons 
would  never  secede  from  either.  He  had  sometimes  a  kind  of  no- 
tion that  North  and  South  would  secede  from  them,  and  if  they  did 
so  the  Mormons  couldn't  help  it,  and  the  Lord  would  yet  make  a 
great  people  of  them,  just  as  fast  as  they  were  able  to  bear  it. 

Hebor  had  a  fling  at "  the  miserable  creatures  who  had  been  sent 
here  one  time  and  another  to  rule  and  judge  them."  The  yoke  was 
off  their  neck ;  they  were  away  out  from  the  confusion,  and  the  yoke 
was  on  the  neck  of  their  enemies,  and  the  bow-key  was  in.  Many 
were  engaged  in  trying  to  have  the  Mormons  associate  with  thcra  in 
a  national  capacity ;  but  they  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  thcra. 
"No,  gentlemen  and  ladies,  wc  are  free  from  thorn,  and  will  keep 
free."  Heber  was  satisfied  with  their  position  in  the  mountains. 
Bngham  was  their  governor ;  had  always  been  so,  and  would  always 
be  so.  He  went  around  about  with  his  hands  in  his  pocket,  and  "■ov- 
crned  the  people.  They  had  the  Lord  for  ruler,  and  the  men  whom 
he  delegated  could  govern  the  people.  He  had  no  fear,  for  he  lived 
above  the  law;  he  transgressed  no  law,  and  had  nothing  to  appre- 
hend. With  an  exliortation  to  go  to  and  make  themselves  happy 
and  independent  by  their  own  industry,  Heber's  racy  discourse  term- 
inated with  a  hearty  amai  from  the  congregation. 

Presidtiiit  IJrigham  Young  was  much  pleased  to  meet  with  the 
Saints.  The  Churcli  was  that  day  thirty-one  years  old— it  seemed 
but  a  short  time,  yet  a  great  work  liad  been  done.  He  remembered 
when  ho  had  a  great  anxiety  to  see  some  person  of  foreign  birth  em- 
brace the  faith.  For  the  first  few  years  it  was  only  Amerieans  who 
received  it,  but  he  could  n  iw  gaze  upon  tens  of  thousands  from  the 
nations  of  the  Old  World.  He  discarded  miracles  as  being  any  evi- 
dence of  the  divinity  of  any  man's  mission :  men  might  bo  astonished 
by  them, but  the  spirit  only  could  convince  and  satisfy  the  mind.  Ko- 
ferred  to  Aaron's  operations :  turning  liis  stick  into  a  serpent,  filling 
the  air  with  life,  and  turning  the  rivers  into  blood,  did  not  satisfy. 
Ho  alluded  to  tho  troubles  in  the  States,  and  warned  the  people 

U 


PL'S'- 


E^  I 


m^ 


l^    I 


':ii!:L 


Ml 


1 

. 

.1 

i 

ll*  ¥ 

-kiM. 

h| 

306 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


against  too  great  anxiety ;  thought  the  nation  was  breaking  up  quite 
f^t  enough.  All  he  was  anxious  about  was  the  baints  being  pre- 
pared for  every  event  in  the  providence  of  the  Lord.  He  sometimes 
wondered  if  the  great  men  of  the  nation  ever  asked  themselves  the 
question,  "  How  can  a  republican  government  stand?  Ihere  was 
but  one  way  in  which  it  could  endure— as  the  government  of  heaven 
endures  upon  the  basis  of  eternal  truth  and  virtue.  Had  Martin  Van 
Buren  redressed  the  wrongs  committed  against  the  Saints— had  he 
ordered  the  State  of  Missouri  to  restore  them  to  their  property,  the 
nation  would  be  stronger  to-day  than  it  is.  He  mourned  to  see  the 
corruption,  and  he  sometimes  felt  a  blush  for  being  an  American. 
He  had  been  reared  by  the  green  mountains  of  Vermont,  and  could 
look  down  upon  the  nation  and  mourn  that  he  had  no  power  to  save 
it.  Although  he  had  no  reason  to  doubt  that  President  Lincoln  was 
as  good  a  man  as  ever  sat  in  the  chair  of  state,  he  had  little  hope  of 
his  accomplishing  much.  He  was  powerless,  because  of  the  corrup- 
tions  that  had  been  introduced  and  fostered  by  the  chief  men  of  the 
nation.  "  Abraham's"  authority  and  power  was  like  a  rope  of  sand : 
be  was  weak  as  water.  The  governments  that  had  been  had  put 
aside  the  innocent,  justified  thievin^j  and  every  species  of  debauch- 
ery,  and  had  fostered  every  one  that  plundered  the  coffers  ol  the  peo- 
ple, and  said  let  it  be  so.  ..      ,     .  ,      i,      j.    • 

The  choir  sung, "  Arise,  oh  glorious  Zion,"  and  with  a  benediction 
from  President  Joseph  Young  we  got  home  for  dinner. 

AFTKENOON  SESSION. 

At  2  P.M.  the  choir  sung, 

"Great  God  attend  while  Zion  sings," 

and  Bishop  Lorenzo  D.Young  prayed. 

The  choir  sung,  ,    .,,„ 

"All  hail  the  glorious  day,  by  prophets  long  foretold. 

Attention  was  requested  from  the  congregation,  and  Apostle  John 
Taylor  was  to  put  .nil  the  presiding  authorities  before  the  peode  for 
reelection.  T^ice  a  year,  in  Apri  and  October,  all  the  presidents 
are  presented  and  voted  on  separately,  and  such  dismissals  or  changes 
made  that  are  deemed  proper.  On  this  occasion  thei^^^  ««J"e 
additions  made,  but  not  a  dissentient  voice  heard.  The  present  pre- 
fiidincr  authorities  in  Mormondom  arc :  ,      r.  t         m  •  *    r 

IWham  Young  as  President  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Chmt  of 
Latter-Day  Saints;  Heber  C. Kimball, his  first,  and  Daniel  H.  Wells, 

''^C^r  nr^HsXidont  of  the  Quorum  of  the  T..lve  Apostles ; 

and  Orson  Pratt,  sen.,  Willford  Woodruff  John  Taylor,  George  A. 

Smith  An  asa  Lv  nan,  Ezra T.  Benson,  Charles  C.  Rich,  Lorenzo  fenow, 

E"as';srow,iQin^ 

bers  of  the  said  Quorum.  ,    ,    ^,       i, 

John  Smith, Patriarch  of  the  whole  Church. 

Daniel  Spencer  as  President  of  this  Stake  of  Zion ;  and  David  Full- 
mer and  George  B.  W^allacc,  his  counselors. 

William  p:ddington,  James  A.Littlc,  John  V.Long  John  L  Blytle, 
Q.   j."e\Te^ek''r  T«i.A  T  rm.io.  Josenh  W.  Young,  Gilbert  Clements, 


Chap.  VI. 


THE  MOBMON  CONFERENCE. 


307 


jBrighara  Young,  jun..  Franklin  B.  Woolley,  Orson  Pratt,  iun.,  and 
Howard  Spencer,  as  t.  embers  of  the  High  Council 

John  Young  as  President  of  the  High  Priosts'  Quorum ;  Edwin  D 
Woolley  and  bamuel  W.  Richards,  his  counselors. 

Joseph  Young,  President  of  the  first  seven  Presidents  of  the  Sev- 
enties; and  Levi  W  Hancock,  Henry  Herriraan,  Zera  Pulsipher,  Al- 
bert  P  Rockwood,Horace  S.  Eldredge,  and  Jacob  Gates,  as  members 
ot  the  hrst  seven  Presidents  of  the  Seventies. 

John  Nebeker  as  President  of  the  Elders'  Quorum;  and  EInathan 
Eldredge  and  Joseph  Felt,  his  counselors. 

Edward  Hunter  as  Presiding  Bishop ;  Leonard  W.  Hardy  and  Jes- 
se C  Little,  his  counselors. 

_  Lewis  Wight  as  President  of  the  Priests'  Quorum ;  William  Whi- 
ting and  Samuel  Moore,  his  counselors. 

M'Gee  Harris  as  President  of  the  Teachers'  Quorum ;  Adam  Speirs 
and  David  Bowman,  his  counselors. 

John  S.  Carpenter  as  President  of  the  Deacon's  Quorum;  William 
if .  Cook  and  Warren  Hardy,  his  counselors. 

Brighara  Young  was  presented  as  Trustee  in  Trust  for  the  Church 
of  Jesus  Christ  ot  Latter-Day  Saints. 

Daniel  II.  Wells  as  Superintendent  of  Public  Works 

Truman  O.  Angell,  Architect  for  the  Church. 

Brigham  Young,  President  of  the  Perpetual  Emigrating  Fund  to 
gather  tlio  poor.  ° 

Hebcr  C.  Kimball,  Daniel  H.  Wells,  and  Edward  Hunter,  his  as- 
sistants  and  agents  for  said  fund. 

■,Tr?f^°''^®,;f  •  ^'"^^'^'  Historian  and  general  Church  Recorder ;  and 
WiUford  Woodruff,  his  assistant. 

Besides  the  time  consumed  in  putting  every  name  separately  for 
the  action  of  the  assembly,  there  was  a  good  deal  of  instruction  given 
about  the  severities,  which  is  of  no  outside  interest. 

Apostles  John  Taylor  and  George  A.  Smith,  and  Patriarch  Assac 
jSlorley,  addressed  the  audience. 

The  apostle  Tavlor  thought  the  Mormons  the  freest  people  on  the 
earth.  They  could,  if  they  would,  reject  their  rulers  twice  a  year  • 
they  had  the  opportunity.  The  unity  of  the  Saints  pleased  them. 
Ho  questioned  Vox  populi,  vox  Dei.  He  got  facetious,  and  wonder- 
ed how  they  would  got  along,  both  North  and  South,  with  that  doc- 
trine If  the  voice  of  the  people  in  the  North  was  the  voice  of  God, 
and  the  voice  of  the  people  in  the  South  was  the  voice  of  God,he  was 
a  litUo  interested  to  know  with  which  of  them  he  would  really  be. 
[AVotce  in  the  stand:  "  Not  either  of  them  "] 

fir«t  n?,V.'r  ^'''•"*'  iS''''''  ^""f  ^''^  ^^*  P^P''^''  ^^^  voice  of  God 

first,  and  the  voice  of  the  people  afterward.    The  Spirit  dictated  and 

ho  Smnts  sustained  it.     But  what  were  they  after?    Did  they  seek 

i^.tinnl  r  V  P"i*'''"'  ^'',*  °"/^«  "'^"^^  °f  "^^"  ?  to  ^»1«  ^^^  dictate 
nat  ons  ?  No.  It  was  only  the  "  little  stone  cut  out  of  the  mount- 
ains, growmg  into  the  kingdom  that  the  prophets  foresaw  that  woulil 
be  established  in  the  last  days.  The  ^formons  had  never  troubled 
their  neighbors,  but  their  neighbors  kept  meddling  with  them.  Thev 
had  sent  an  army  here,  but  the  Mormons  did  not  seek  to  harm  them 


i  f 


"I 


I* 

I' 


■ 

.  '1 

ifPr- 

1       '%-i 

'  i ' 

.     ..xLki^ 

308 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


when  they  had  the  chance.  They  came  here  with  the  intention  to  kill 
the  Mormons  if  they  could ;  but  they  couldn't,  for  the  Lord  wouldn't 
let  them.  Their  enemies  had  hunted  them  like  wolves ;  but  the  Lord 
had  said,  "Touch  not  mine  anointed,  and  do  my  pi;ophets  no  harm." 
They  had  kept  the  army  out  at  Ham's  Fork  shakmg  and  shivering 
till  they  cooled  down.  "  Brother  Taylor"  was  real  well  pleased  with 
thines  in  general,  and  concluded  with  Hallelujah. 

Apostle  George  A.  Smith  was  exceedingly  humorous  over  the  de- 
mocracy There  was  no  head  to  it ;  the  centre  of  its  intelligence 
was  the  belly,  and  the  principal  portion  of  the  body  was  in  the  boots. 
Several  plundering  operations  Avere  alluded  to,  and  Uncle  bam  had 
been  sadly  victimized  by  his  boys.  The  government  had  been  a  mis- 
erable goose  for  politicians  to  pluck.  Abe  Lincoln  had  now  the  hon- 
or of  presiding  over  a  portion  of  what  was  once  the  United  btates ; 
he  had  been  elected  by  the  religious  portion  of  the  States.  "  George 
A  "  remembered  when  the  folks  of  New  York  sold  her  slaves  to  V  u-- 
cinia  Their  conscience  would  not  allow  them  to  retain  their  fellow- 
bein<^s  in  bondage— oh,  they  were  mighty  squeamish !  They  could 
take  the  money  from  Virginia,  and  as  they  got  more  religion  and 
more  conscience  they  were  exceedingly  anxious  for  Virginia  to  set 

them  loose !  ,    ,  ,  .     i  w      r^- 

That  religious  fanaticism  that  had  been  mixed  up  with  politics 
would  lead  to  bloodshed.  They  were  more  to  be  dreaded  than  infi- 
dels They  were  cruel  in  their  fanaticism.  The  Republicans  first 
whipped  old  Buck*  into  the  Utah  war,  and  they  whipped  him  for 
gettincr  into  it,  and  whipped  him  awfully  for  getting  out  of  it— he 
got  oiit  of  it  too  soon.  Politicians  were  in  confusion,  and  the  Lord 
would  keep  them  there.  He  labored  to  show  the  folly  of  men  wor- 
shiping a  God  without  body,  parts,  or  passions,  for  such  being,  if  be- 
ing he  might  be  called,  must  be  destitute  of  principles  and  power. 
He  argued  that  the  God  worshiped  by  sectarians  could  not  be  the 
beinnf  that  wrestled  with  Jacob,  that  conversed  with  Moses,  and  wrote 
with'llis  finger  upon  tables  of  stone,  lie  said  that  Joseph  Smith  had 
prophesied  when  the  Saints  were  driven  from  Jackson  County,  Mis- 
souri, that  if  the  government  did  not  redress  our  wrongs,  they  should 
have  mob  upon  mob  until  mob  power,  and  that  alone,  should  govern 

the  whole  land.  .     „  ,  ,  .       ,-1.1, 

He  bore  testimony  to  the  truth  of  the  work  in  which  ho  was  en- 
gaged, and  said  if  the  Latter-Day  Saints  would  listen  to  President 
Young's  instructions  as  they  ought  to  do,  they  would  soon  be  the 
wealthiest  people  upon  the  fa<  0  of  the  earth. 
The  choir  sung  "  The  Standard  of  Zion." 

Air— "Star  Spangled  Banner." 

Oh  see !  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains  unfurled, 

The  ensign  of  promise,  of  hope,  and  salvation, 
From  their  summits  how  nobly  it  waves  to  the  world,     _ 

And  spreads  its  broad  folds  o'er  the  Rood  of  each  nation; 
A  signal  of  liRht  for  the  lovers  of  riRht, 
To  rally  where  truth  will  soon  triumph  in  might. 

'Tis  the  ensign  of  Israel  streaming  abroad. 

And  ever  shall  wave  o'er  the  peoi)le  of  God. 

*  Mf;  Buchanan. 


309 


Ciup.  YI.  THE  MORMON  CONFERENCE. 

By  an  angel's  strong  hand  to  the  earth  it  was  brought 
A  *i°'" '"«  regions  of  glory,  where  long  it  lay  folded; 
And  holy  ones  here,  for  the  arduous  work  taught 

By  the  priesthood  unflinching  and  faithful  uphold  it  • 
.ri-^?""^^^"  P'<='''^es  heav'n,  and  'twill  never  be  riv'n         ' 
lill  the  rule  of  the  earth  will  to  Jesus  be  given 
For  the  ensign  of  Israel's  streaming  abroad, 
And  ever  shall  wave  o'er  the  people  of  God. 

•      "^^}^^  emblem  of  peace  and  good-will  to  mankind, 

Ihat  prophets  have  sung  of  when  freed  by  the  spirit 
And  a  token  which  God  has  for  Israel  designed  ' 

That  their  seed  may  the  land  of  their  fathers 'inherit ; 
Many  nations  will  say,  when  they  see  its  bright  ray. 
To  the  mountains  of  God  let  us  hasten  away ;       ^ 

ior  the  ensign  of  Israel's  streaming  abroad. 

And  ever  shall  wave  o'er  the  people  of  God. 
Its  guardians  are  sending  their  ministers  forth, 

lo  tell  when  the  Latter-Day  kingdom  is  founded, 
And  invite  all  the  lovers  of  truth  on  the  earth 

Jew,  Christian,  and  Gentile,  to  gather  around  it: 
The  cause  wil  prevail,  though  all  else  may  assail, 
lor  God  has  decreed  that  his  works  shall  not  fail: 

Uli !  the  ensign  of  Israel's  streaming  abroad, 

And  ever  shall  wave  o'er  the  people  of  God. 

Patriarch  Morley  pronounced  the  benediction,  and  the  first  dav's 
conference  terminated.  ■^ 

SECOXD   DAY. 

The  crowd  on  the  Sunday  far  exceeded  that  of  the  preceding  day 
The  streets  around  the  Temple  Block  Avere  literally  tilled  with  people 
and  carriages.  The  Tabernacle  could  not  hold  a  third  of  those  Ao 
were  anxious  to  hear.  Every  seat  and  standing-place  was  occupied 
long  before  the  opening  of  proceedings.  As  soon  as  Brigham  reach- 
ed the  inside  vestry,  he  sent  out  some  of  the  apostles  and  elders  to 
preach  to  the  outsiders,  sufficiently  distant  from  the  Tabernacle  as 
not  to  disturb  each  other  with  their  preaching. 

I  have  already  filled  so  much  paper  that  I  fear  trespassing  too  much 
upon  your  columns  with  the  details  of  the  second  day  at  the  present 
time,  as  Bngham  was  very  explicit  on  the  subject  of  plurality  of 
wives,  and  it  was  the  only  time  I  ever  heard  him  on  the  "  peculiar 
mstitution."  ^ 

Altogether  it  was  a  great  conference,  and,  as  the  foregoing  exhib- 
its, the  apostles  enjoyed  a  particular  free  and  easy  time  of  it. 

In  its  territorial  status  an  anomaly  has  been  forced  upon  the 
Mormon  population.  It  must  receive  officers  appointed  and  sal- 
aried by  the  federal  government,  viz. : 

A  governor,  with  a  salary  of  12600  (£500)  per  annum,  payable 
quarterly.  ^  ^ 

A  secretary  to  government,  $1000.- 
A  chief  justice  to  the  Supreme  Court,  $2500. 
An  associate  do.  do.  $1000. 

I^o-  do.  do.  #1000. 

A  district  attorney,  $400. 
A  marshal,  *400  (not  including  perquisites). 


310 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


A  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  $2500. 
A  surveyor  general,  $2500.* 

The  governor,  who  is  also  commander-in-chief  of  the  militia, 
holds  office  for  four  years,  unless  sooner  removed  by  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  or  until  appomtraent  of  a  successor. 
He  has  the  usual  right  of  pardoning  territorial  offenses,  and  of  re- 
prieving offenders  against  the  federal  government.  He  approves 
all  laws  passed  by  the  Legislative  Assembly  before  they  can  take 
effect-  he  commissions  all  officers  appointed  under  the  laws,  and 
takes  care  that  the  laws  are  faithfully  executed. 

The  secretary  holds  office  for  the  same  time:  his  duty  is  to  re- 
cord preserve,  and  transmit  copies  of  all  laws  and  proceedings  of 
the  Legislative  Assembly,  and  all  acts  and  proceedings  of  tbe  gov- 
ernor in  his  executive  department.  In  case  of  death,  removal, 
resi<rnation,  or  necessary  absence  of  the  governor  from  the  Terri- 
tory he  acts  temporarily  until  the  vacancy  is  filled  up ;  and  prac- 
tically he  looks  forward  to  being  a  member  of  Congress  in  the 
House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States. 

The  marshal  holds  office  for  a  similar  term :  his  duty  is  to  exe- 
cute all  processes  issued  by  the  courts  when  exercising  their  func- 
tions as  Circuit  and  District  Courts  of  the  United  States.  In  dis- 
turbed countries,  as  California  of  the  olden  time,  the  marshal's 
principal  office  seems  to  have  been  that  of  being  shot  at. 

The  executive  arm  would,  in  any  other  Territory,  be  found  to 
work  easily  and  well :  it  is,  in  fact,  derived,  with  certain  modifica- 
tions from  that  original  Constitution  which  has  ever  remained  to 
new  states  the  great  old  model.  Among  the  Mormons,  however, 
there  is  necessarily  a  division  and  a  clashing  of  the  two  princi- 
ples :  one,  the  federal,  republican,  and  laical ;  the  other,  the  theo- 
cratic, despotic,  and  spiritual.  The  former  is  the  State,  under 
which  is  the  Church.  The  latter  is  the  Church,  under  which  is 
the  State,  and  hence  complications  which  call  for  a  cutting  solu- 
tion. As  long  as  the  Prophet  and  President  was  also  the  tempo- 
ral governor, ^o  long  the  Mormons  were  contented:  now  they 
must  look  forward  to  a  change. 

The  Legislative  Assembly  consists  of  an  "  Upper  House,  a 
President  and  Council  of  thirteen,  and  a  House  of  Representa- 
tives, or  Lower  House,  of  twenty-six  members,  whose  term  of  of- 
fice is  one  year.  An  appointment  of  the  representation  based 
upon  a  census  is  made  in  the  ratio  of  population :  the  candidates, 
however,  must  be  bond  jvie  residents  of  the  counties  or  districts 
for  which  they  stand.  No  member  of  the  Legislative  Assembly 
is  allowed  to  hold  any  appointment  created  while  he  was  in  of- 
fice "  or  for  one  year  thereafter,"  and  the  United  States  officials 

post-masters  alone  excepted — caa  not  become  either  senators 

or  representatives.    The  legislative  pover  extends  to  the  usual 

*  The  dclcKate  to  Washington  receives  "$8  per  diem,  not  including  ' mileage.'" 


Chap.  VL    VOTERS  AND  VOTING—LEGISLATIVE  ASSEMBLY.     311 

rightful  and  constitutional  limits.  "No  law  shall  be  passed  in- 
terfenng  with  the  primary  disposal  of  the  soil;  no  tax  shall  be 
imposed  upon  the  property  of  the  United  States,  nor  shall  the 
lands  or  other  property  of  non-residents  be  taxed  higher  than  the 
lands  or  other  property  of  residents.  All  the  laws  passed  by  the 
Legislative  Assembly  and  government  shall  be  submitted  to  the 
Congress  of  the  United  States,  and,  if  disapproved,  shall  be  null 
and  of  no  effect." 

Every  free  male  (white)  inhabitant*  above  the  age  of  twenty- 
one,  who  has  resided  in  the  county  for  sixty  days  before  the  elec- 
tion, is  entitled  to  vote,  and  is  eligible  for  office ;  the  right  is  lim- 
ited to  citizens  of  the  United  States,  including  those  recognized 
by  treaty  with  the  Mexican  Eepublic  (2d  of  Feb.,  1848),  and  ex- 
cluding, as  usual,  the  military  servants  of  the  federal  government. 
Great  fault  was  found  by  anti-Mormons  with  the  following  per- 
missions in  the  act  regulating  elections  (Jan.,  1853),  because  they 
artistically  enough  abolish  the  ballot  while  they  retain  the  vote.t 

Sec.  5  Each  elector  shall  provide  himself  with  a  vote,  containing  the  names  of  tho 
persons  he  wishes  elected  and  the  offices  he  would  have  them  to  fill,  and  present  it 
neatly  folded  (!)  to  the  judge  of  the  elections,  who  shall  number  and  deposit  it  in  tho 
ballot-box ;  the  clerk  shall  then  write  the  name  of  the  elector,  and  opposite  it  the 
number  of  his  vote.  *^*^ 

Sec.  6.  At  the  close  of  the  election  the  judge  shall  seal  up  the  ballot-box,  and  tho 
list  of  the  names  of  the  electors,  and  transmit  tho  same  without  delay  to  the  county 

"In  a  Territory  so  governed,"  remarks  Mr.  Secretary  Ferris, 
"it  will  not  excite  surprise  that  cases  of  extortion,  robbery,  mur- 
der, and  other  crimes  should  occur,  and  defy  all  legal  redress,  or 
that  the  law  should  be  made  the  instrument  of  crime." 

The  deduction  is  unfair.  The  real  cause  why  crime  goes  un- 
punished must,  as  will  presently  appear,  be  sought  in  an  unfriend- 
ly and  conflicting  judiciary.     The  act  itself  can  produce  nothing 

•  When  tho  vexed  passage,  "We  hold  these  truths  to  be  self-evident,  that  all  men 
are  created  equal,  written  in  177C,  is  inteqjieted  in  18C0,  it  must  be  read,  "all  ffree 
white)  men  to  be  consistent  and  intelligible.  Similarly  "persons  bound  to  labor" 
must  be  considered  a  euphuism  for  slaves.  The  "American  Mirabeau,"  Jefferson, 
who  framed  the  celebrated  Declaration,  certainly  did  not  consider,  as  the  context  of 
Ins  life  proves,  slaves  to  be  his  equals.  What  he  intended  the  Mormons  havo  ex- 
pressed. 

Again,  what  can  be  clearer  than  that  tho  Constitution  contemplated  secession? 
If  an  adult  citizen  is  allowed  to  throw  off  his  allegiance,  surelv  the  body  of  citizens 
called  a  state  have,  «  majort,  a  right  to  withdraw  from  a  "federal  union  " 

t  The  first  Legislative  Assembly  was  elected  in  the  summer  of  1851,'  and  held  a 
session  in  the  following  autumn  and  winter.  An  historian's  office  was  established 
courts  were  organized  cities  incorporated,  and  a  small  body  of  Territorial  laws  were 
passed  I  ho  second  Legislative  Assembly  met  on  the  15th  of  Januarv,  1852,  at  the 
Council  House,  and  after  tho  organization  of  the  two  houses,  they  came  together  to 
receive  the  message  of  tlio  governor,  Mr.  Brigham  Young.  The  archon,  when  noti- 
fied of  tiio  hour,  entered,  sat  down  in  tho  speaker's  chair,  and  on  being  asked  if  he 
had  any  communicatum  to  make,  handed  his  message  to  the  Tresident  of  the  Conn- 
oil,  who  passed  it  for  reading  to  the  Clerk  of  the  House.  The  message  was  a  lengthv 
and  creditable  document ;  of  course,  it  was  severely  criticised,  but  the  gravamch  of 
the  charges  was  tho  invidious  phrase  used  by  the  I'rophet  to  his  lieges,  "for  your 
guidance.  "    >  j 


■<    !J 


I  <  i 


812 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


but  good ;  it  enables  the  wise  few  to  superintend  the  actions  of 
the  unwise  many,  and  it  subjects  the  "  tyrant  majority,"  as  ever 
should  be  the  case,  to  the  will  of  the  favored  minority.  As  the 
Conquercr  of  Sindh  often  said,  "When  noses  arc  counted,  the 
many  are  those  without  brains." 

The  bad  working  of  a  divided  executive  is  as  nothing  compared 
with  the  troubles  occasioned  by  the  opposition  judiciaries,  federal 
and  territorial. 

An  act  (19th  of  Jan.,  1855)  provides  that  a  Supreme  Court  of 
the  United  States  bo  held  annually  on  the  first  Monday  in  Janu- 
ary, at  Fillmore  City ;  each  session  to  be  kept  open  at  least  one 
day,  and  no  session  to  be  legal  except  on  adjournment  in  the  reg- 
ular term.  Another  act  (-Ith  of  Feb.,  1852)  directed  that  the  Dis- 
trict Courts,  now  three  in  number,  shall  exercise  original  jurisdic- 
tion both  in  civil  and  criminal  cases  when  not  otherwise  provided 
by  law,  and  also  have  a  general  supervision  over  all  inferior  courts, 
to  prevent  and  correct  abuses  where  no  other  remedy  is  provided. 
The  above  arc  officered  by  the  federal  government. 

Section  23d  of  the  same  act  provides  for  a  Judge  of  Probate— 
of  course  a  Mormon — chxkd  hy  the  joint  role  of  the  Lcrjislativc  As- 
scinhly  and  commissioned  hij  the  (jorcrnor.  llis  tenure  of  office  is 
four  years,  and  he  holds  regular  sessions  on  the  second  ^londays 
of  March,  June,  September,  and  December  of  each  year.  The  Pro- 
bate Court,  besides  the  duties  which  its  name  suggests, has  the  ad- 
ministration of  estates,  and  the  guardianship  of  minors,  idiots,  and 
insane  persons ;  with  these  its  proper  offices,  however,  it  combines 
power  to  exercise  orirjinal  jnrisdiction,  both  eirtl  and  criminal,  rc^- 
ulated  only  by  appeal  under  certain  conditions  to  the  District 
Courts,  df  late  tlie  anomaly  has  been  acknowledged  by  the  Su- 
preme Court.*  Inferior  to  the  Probate  Court,  and  subject  to  its 
revision,  are  the  Justices  of  the  Peace,  the  Municipal  Court,  and 

•  TIu<  Court  lii'lil,  First.  Tliiit  tlie'.ttli  section  of  the  OrKnnic  Act  vested  all  jiulicinl 
power  ill  the  Supreme,  District,  mul  I'robate  Courts,  iiuit  in  Jiislices  of  the  IViicc. 

Second  That  the  only  restriction  jdaced  upon  these  courts  was  ns  to  .lusticcs  of 
the  IVnce,  rcfusiiiR  thciii  Jurisdiction  to  try  any  case  involvinjr  the  title  or  houiidary 
to  land,  or  any  suit  where  the  claim  or  demand  exceeded  <jne  hundred  dollars. 

Third.  That  hy  virtue  of  that  clause  of  the  Orjianic  Act  which  provides  llmt  "tlio 
jiiri-sdiction  of  the.  Heveral  courtH  therein  provided  for,"  including  the  rrotmte  Courts, 
"«/ia//  Of  on  limilrd  lii/  /iiir,"  that  the  LcKisluture  had  the  ri^ht  to  provide  hy  law  fur 
the  exercise  tiy  the  I'roliate  Courts  of  jurisdiction  in  civil  and  crindiud  cases. 

Fourth.  That  ns  the  Organic  Act  confern'd  common  law  aiul  chancery  jurisdiction 
tipon  the  Supreme  and  District  Courts  rcsiK'ctively,  that  this  jurisdiclion  hcionneil  'o 
tliPRO  courts  exclusively,  and  that  the  I'rolmte  Courts  were  confined  to  the  juris<lic. 
titm  conferred  hy  statute,  and  such  Jurisdiclion  niiKht  he  exercised  eoiieurrently  with 
the  District  Comts  to  the  extent  providcil  hy  statute. 

Fifth.  That  as  the  LcKislature  had  passed  a  law  eonfcrrin;;  umm  tlu-  I'rohalc  Coiirld 
concurrent  jurisdiction  with  tho  District  CouriM  to  hear  and  delermine  civil  iis  well 
M  rriniiniil  cases  within  their  resiK'clivo  counties,  and  had  provided  the  manner  in 
which  this  jurisdi  lion  sIkmiM  Ik'  exercised,  that  the  trial,  conviction,  and  sentence  of 
the  prisoner  were  vali<l  and  liindiiiK  in  law  until  reversed  hy  an  appellate  court. 

Alihou>!h  ,liid({e  Shaver,  one  of  the  IwHt  of  jurists,  taeitiv  acknowledged  the  juris- 
diction of  rrohale  Courts,  .Judge  Kiniiey  i.s  tho  Hist  who  has  dared  uskuU  his  dcci- 
sten  jiidi'iaHy, 


Chap.  VL 


CONFLICTING  JUDICIAKIfiS. 


818 


the  three  selectmen  in  each  organized  county.  Besides  the  Pro- 
bate Courts,  the  Mormons  have  instituted,  as  will  presently  ap- 
pear, Ecclesiastical  High  Council  under  the  Church  authorities 
and  the  President,  provided  with  ample  powers  of  civil  and  crim- 
inal jurisdiction,  and  fully  capable  of  judging  between  Saint  and 
Saint. 

In  describing  the  operations  of  the  two  conflicting  judiciaries, 
I  shall  borrow  the  words  of  both  parties. 

According  to  the  Mormons,  the  increased  chicanery  of  the  fed- 
eral government  has  arri\'ed  at  full  development  in  their  Territo- 
ry.*   The  phrase  has  been, "  Any  thing  is  good  enough  for  Utah." 
Tlie  salary  is  too  inconsiderable  to  satisfy  any  but  the  worst  kind 
of  jack-in-office,  and  the  object  of  those  appomted  is  to  secure  no- 
toriety in  the  Eastern  States  by  obstructing  justice,  and  by  fo- 
menting disturbances  in  the  West.     The  three  judges  first  ap- 
pointed from  Washington  in  June,  1851,  became  so  unpopular, 
that  in  the  autumn  of  the  same  year  they  were  obliged  to  leavo 
Utah  Territory— one  of  them  with  a  "Ilea  in  his  car"  duly  insert- 
ed by  Mr.  Brigham  Young.     I  shall  not  quote  names,  nor  will  the 
reader  require  tliem.     Another  attempted  to  break  the  amnesty 
in  1858,  and  when  asked  for  suggestions  by  the  Legislative  As- 
sembly, proposed  an  act  for  the  prevention  and  punishment  of 
polygamy,  and  urged  the  Senate  to  divide  the  land  between  the 
projXKsed  Territories ;  finally,  this  excellent  Christian  hung  a  Gen- 
tile brother  on  the  Lord's  day.     Another  killed  himself  with  opi- 
um ;  another  was  a  notorious  drunkard;  and  another  was  addict- 
ed to  gambling  in  his  celhar.     A  judge  disgraced  himself  with  an 
Indian  squaw,  who  entered  his  court,  and,  coram  2mblico,  demand- 
ed her  honorarium,  and  another  seated  on  the  bench  his  mistress 
—la  imwjve  Ada,  as  she  is  termed  by  M.  Uemy,  the  Gentile  trav- 
eler—and tlic  Mormons  liave  not  yet  learned  to  endure"  Alice 
Poirce,  or  to  worship  the  (joddess  of  Reason  in  that  shape.     An- 
otlicr  attempted  to  et)uviet  Mr.  Brigham  Young  of  forgery.     TIio 
marshal  wa.s,  in  one  case,  a  ci-dcvnut  teamster,  who  could  hardly 
>vrile  his  own  name.     Besides  the  vileness  of  their  cliaractcrs, 
tlieir  ehipieisin  and  violent  hostility  have  led  to  prostitution  of 
justice;  a  Mormon  acniHc  was  invariably  found  guilty  by  them, 
a  Gentile  was  invariably  aeipiitted.     Thus  the  Probate 'Courts, 
jtropiMly  junsdurtors  of  the  dead,  were  made  judges  of  the  living 
111  all  civil  and  eriniinal  eases,  because  justice  was  not  obtaiiiablo 
from  the  Supreme  District  and  the  Circuit  judges  appointed  by 
th(!  federal  government.     To  the  envenomed  reports  of  these  ofli- 
cials  the  Saints  attribute  all  the  disturbances  in  1857-58,  and  sun- 

♦  'V\w  ITtnli  corrr-pon.lcnt  of  ilio  "  Now  V..rk  Tlornl.l."  wrilinR  from  Rnlt  Lako  nn- 
(l(«r  (Ii\lii  .,f  April  •.'(lili,  Ktiitcs  timt  tlio  f.ill  of  Fort  Simid-r  ami  tlio  sccosKion  (if  Vir- 
jtiiim  hml  cniucil  iiiiriisf  iiiU'rcnt  niiU'iin  \\n\  "  Siiints."  Tlio  nows  wim  rond  in  tlio 
I'll!)  ■rniiili>  l.y  HriKlmni  V.mntr.  niul  ilu^  (lisciplcs  wcro  nskoil  lo  lidirvo  tliutthiH  wn» 
ni'Mvly  t!io  i.riHliitioii  of  Mr.  Joscj.li  .Smit),  about  tlio  bruiikiim  tiii  of  tlio  Ainoricnu 
luioih  ' 


n     '  'I 


5          1    . 
If,,   i.-)    . 

i, 

\s- 


.••!ii 


314 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VL 


dry  high-handed  violations  of  the  constitutional  liberties  and  the 
dearest  rights  of  American  citizenship.  For  instance,  the  Indian 
war  of  1852  cost  them  $200,000 ;  they  repeatedly  memorialized 
Congress  to  defray,  strictly  according  to  precedent,  these  expendi- 
tures, and  yet,  from  1850  to  1855,  they  have  received,  in  payment 
of  expenses  and  treaties,  grants  and  presents,  only  the  sum  of 
$95,940.  Though  Utah  Territory  has  practiced  far  more  econo- 
my 'than  Oregon  or  California,  the  drafts  forwarded  by  the  Super- 
intendent of  Indian  Affairs  to  the  Treasury  at  Washington  are 
totally  neglected,  or  are  subjected  to  delays  and  frivolous  annoy- 
ances. The  usual  treaties  with  the  Indians  have  not  been  held 
by  the  federal  government.  The  Mormons'  requisition  for  be- 
coming a  state  is  systematically  ignored,  and  this  ignoble  minor- 
hood  is  prolonged,  although  they  can  show  five  head  of  souls  for 
three  possessed  by  California  at  the  time  of  her  admittance — an- 
other instance  of  a  "  rancorous  persecuting  spirit,  excited  by  false 
and  malicious  representations."  He  who  lifteth  up  an  ensign  on 
the  mountains  is  now  "  about  to  destroy  a  certain  nation  under 
the  name  of  the  sour  grape  (Catawba?);"  and  the  Mormons  see 
in  the  present  civil  war  at  once  retribution  for  their  injuries,  and 
the  fullillment  of  the  denunciations  of  Joseph  the  Seer  against  the 
"Gentile  land  of  strife  and  wickedness.'^  Assuredly  Fate  has 
played  marvclously  into  their  hands. 

The  federal  officials  retort  with  a  counter  charge  against  the 
Saints  of  systematically  obstructing  the  course  of  justice.  A 
Mormon  must  be  tried  by  his  peers ;  however  guiltv,  he  will  be 
surely  acquitted,  as  a  murdering  fugitive  slave  in  the  North,  or 
n  thievish  filibuster  in  the  South;  that  it  is  vain  to  attempt  juris- 
diction over  a  ijcople  who  have  an  ecclesiastical  Star-Chainber  and 
Vigilance  Committee  working  out  in  darkness  a  sectarian  law ; 
that  no  civilized  goverimient  could  or  would  admit  into  a  com- 
munity of  Christian  states  a  })ower  founded  on  prophetliood  and 
polygamy,  a  theodoinocracy,  with  a  (J  rand  Lama  presiding  over 
universal  suflVagators ;  that  all  accusations  of  private  immorality 
proceed  from  a  systematic  attack  upon  the  federal  Union  throngh 
its  officers;  and,  finally,  tliat,  so  thin-skinned'is  Mormon  sensibil- 
ity, a  torrent  of  vituperation  follows  tlio  least  delay  made  with  re- 
spect to  their  "  ridiculous  nretcnsions." 

The  autlior  speaks.  Or  course  there  arc  faults  on  both  sides, 
and  each  ])arfy  luis  notking  better  to  do  than  to  spy  out  the  oth- 
er's sins  of  omission  and  commission.  The  Americans  ((",  c,  anti- 
Mormons),  never  very  genial  or  unprejudiced,  are  not  conciliato- 
ry ;  they  rage  violently  when  callec  (Gentiles,  and  their  *'  respect- 
ability," a  mjwter-passion  in  Columbian  lands,  is  outraged,  maid- 
en-inodcsty-like,  by  the  bare  mention  of  jiolygainv.  On  the  oilier 
hand,  thf  Lalter-Day  Saints,  who  now  ilourish  in  the  Mt)iintain 
Territory,  and  who  expect  eventually  to  Ilourish  over  the  whole 
carti).  "are  naturally  prepared  to  liat(>  and  denigrate  all  beyond 


Chap.  VI.      CORPORATION  OF  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


315 


the  pale  of  their  own  faith."  If  the  newly-arrived  judge  fails 
within  the  first  week,  to  wait  upon  Mr.  President,  he  or  his  may 
expect  to  be  the  subject  of  an  offensive  newspaper  article.  If 
another  live  among  his  co-religionists  at  Camp  Floyd,  he  is  con- 
victed of  cliqueism,  and  is  forthwith  condemned  as  a  foe.  What- 
ever proceeds  from  the  federal  government  is  and  must  be  dis- 
tasteful to  them ;  to  every  address  they  reply,  "  To  your  tents  O 
Israel!"  "Their  nobles  shall  be  of  themselves,  and  their  gov- 
ernor shall  proceed  from  the  midst  of  them,"  is  the  shaft  which 
they  level  against  the  other  party,  and  which  recoils  upon  them- 
selves. The  result  is  that  if  the  territorial  judiciary  sentences  a 
criminal,  he  appeals  to  the  federals,  and  at  once  obtains  cassation 
—and  vice  versd.  The  usual  procedure  in  criminal  casts  is  to 
make  oath  before  a  magistrate,  who  thereupon  commands  the 
marshal  to  take  the  accused  into  custody,  and  "them  safely  keep," 
so  that  he  may  produce  their  bodies  before  the  first  sessions  of 
the  United  States  District  Courts ;  if  the  magistrate  be  a  Mor- 
mon, he  naturally  refuses  to  prosecute  and  persecute  a  brother 
Saint— and  vice  versd.  Thus  many  notorious  offenders,  whom  the 
Mormons  would,  for  their  own  sakes,  willingly  see  cut  off  from 
the  congregation— in  simple  words,  hung— escape  with  impunity 
after  the  first  excitement  has  settled  down:  the  most  terrible 
crimes  arc  soon  forgotten  in  the  party  fight,  and  in  the  race  to 
"go  ahead;"  after  five  years  they  become  pabulum  for  the  local 
antiauary. 

I  have  thus  attempted,  with  feeble  hand,  to  divide  the  blame 
between  both  the  great  intending  parties,  and  may  fairly,  I  hope, 
expect  to  be  unanimously  rejected  by  both. 

The  ordinance  to  incorporate  Great  Salt  Lake  City  was  ap- 
proved by  the  General  Assembly  of  the  State  of  Dcseret  on  the 
19tli  of  January,  1851,  and  the  body  municinal  was  constituted, 
like  Fillmore,  Ogden,  and  other  cities  in  the  Territory.  The 
City  Council  consists  of  a  mayor,  four  aldermen,  and  one  com- 
mon councilor  per  ward — formerly  there  were  but  nine ;  they  aro 
elected  by  votes,  with  tlic  usual  qualifications ;  arc  sworn  or  affi- 
anced to  support  the  federal  and  territorial  Constitution,  and  re- 
tain office  for  two  years.  They  collect  the  taxes,  which,  however, 
must  not  exceed  1-50  per  cent,  per  annum  upon  the  assessed 
value  of  all  taxable  property,  real  and  personal.*    They  appoint 

♦  Tho  |irnpprt_v-tnx,  like  titlicfi,  forming  llip  rhiircli  funds  nnd  flie  nvnitip  of  tlio 
civil  irovcriiniciit,  nm  p-Tiuinl ;  the  (K-lmi  (fU'O  fur  10(1  llis.  of  cvpry  tiling  i'nlrriii(j 
thn  Territory  frotn  tlm  ciist,  nnd  !?i'jr>  from  tiic  west)  nnd  watcr-tiix  arc  locnl,  nnd 
ronfincd  to  towns.  I  run  not  llnd  niiy  other  regofrni/.ed  ini|)iist)i.  The  nnti-Mor- 
moiiH  declare  that  the  Siiints  are  overburdened  with  tiiMition.  '!"he  Saints  nssci^ 
tlmt  their  hiirden  is  linht,  omicciidly  «hon  eom|mred  with  the  Mormons'  taxation  of 
tho  Allantie  eiiies,  wliii-h  averaitcs  from  donhle  to  trehio  that  of  London  and  I'nrU 
— n  lillle  drnwhaek  to  r.ilx-rty  when  *he  nniHt  Ik>  hought  for  her  weijfht  in  jiold. 

In  the  Auditor's  rp|«irt  neeompanyinn  the  (Jovernor's  Messu|;o  of  IXtiO,  therft  nro 
«inie  ilenis  of  K<'i>eral  iiiti  rest  to  5>eo|p|e  outside,  an  well  as  to  those  in  the  Territory, 
Tho  re{>grt  iiiiiiw  thai  "  tho  total  valuution  of  properly  assesaei}  iu  the  Tprri^c-ry  fer 


I 


I 

It  L  ^.A 


'  •  I 


»^?l( 


816 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


their  recorder,  treasurer,  assessor,  collector,  marshal,  and  supervi^ 
sor  of  streets,  and  have  sole  charge  of  the  police.  They  establish 
and  support  schools  and  hospitals,  regulate  "hacking,'  "tippling 
houses,"  and  gambling  and  billiard-tables ;  inspect  lumber,  hay, 
bread  and  provisions,  and  provide  against  fires— which  here,  ccn- 
trar;y  to  the  rule  throughout  England  and  the  Eastern  States,  are 
rare  and  little  to  be  feared ;  direct  night-lighting  and  the  storage 
of  combustibles,  and  regulate  streets,  bridges,  and  fences.  They 
have  power  to  enforce  their  ordinances  by  fines  and  penalties. 
Appeals  from  the  decisions  of  the  mayor  and  aldermen  are  made 
to  the  Municipal  Court,  composed  of  the  mayor  as  chief  justice, 
and  the  aldermen  as  associate  justices,  and  froni  the  Municipal 
Court  to  the  Probate  Court  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  _ 

In  the  young  settlements  of  the  Far  West  there  is  a  regular 
self-enforced  programme  of  manufacturing  progress.  The  first 
step  is  to  establish  flouring  or  grist  mills,  and  lumber  or  saw  mills, 
to  provide  for  food  and  shelter.  After  these  sine  qua  nons  come 
the  comforts  of  cotton-spinning,  wool-carding,  cloth-weaving,  tai- 
loring, and  ihoemaking.  Lastly  arise  the  luxuries  of  life,  which 
penetrate  slowly  into  this  Territory  on  account  of  the  delay  and 
expense  of  transporting  heavy  machinery  across  the  "wild  desert 
])lains."  The  minor  mechanical  contrivances,  the  remarkable  in- 
ventions of  the  Eastern  States— results  of  a  necessity  whicli  re- 
moves every  limit  to  human  ingenuity — such  as  sewing-machines, 
cataract  washing-machines,  stump-extracting  machines,  and  oth- 
ers, whicli,  but  for  want  of  hands,  would  nev<'r  have  been  dream- 
ed of,  are  not  unknown  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Tlie  subjoined  extract  from  the  list  of  premiums  of  the  Dcserdt 
Agricultural  Society*  will  explain  the  industry  at  Great  Salt  Lake 

the  year  ISfiO  (Green  liiver  niiil  Cnrson  eountics  oxiopted)  nnimints  to  $4,r.7;i,000." 
Assi'-Hsors  in  I'liih  are,  I  )in'snme,  like  assessors  every  where,  not  likely  to  (il)ti\in  an 
exn>!Kerato(l  estimate  of  the  value.  oC  property,  ns  on  that  estimate  assessments  aro 
made.  Properly,  therefore,  may  he  set  ilo\vi»  at  a  mncli  larger  linnre  than  llint  (livon 
in  the  aliove  exiraef.  The  Territorial  fax  at  one  half  of  one  jier  cent,  is  !ii2.'!,Il(i'.)  .10. 
As  an  eviilenee  of  the  increase  of  ]K)pulation  and  of  improvi-ment  in  property,  the  ex- 
cess t)f  Territorial  tax  is  over  that  of  last  vcar  l|(i;t,U"K  a.'l— tivo  sixths  of  whieli  m 
eolleeted  in  (Jreat  Salt  Lake  (Niiinty,  ami  that  eliietly  in  this  eity.  Of  the  other 
eoiinties,  the  rejiort  slates,  "The  counties  of  Weher,  Hox-Elder,  and  .Fnnh  <>n(h  show 
a  decrease  in  the  valmition  of  projx'rty,  compared  with  the  assessment  for  lH."i!t,  of  1(5 
per  cent ,  and  Iron  ("onnty  ft  (leen-aso  of  ;t;i  jK-r  cent.,  while  the  counties  of  Heaver, 
Nan  I'ete.  and  < 'ache  show  a  more  tiian  correspondinn  increase  in  the  f(dlowint;  ratio, 
viz.;  Ilcavcr, ;!(! :  San  1  Vie,  .10;  and  Cache, '.MM)  ]ier  ei'iit.  The  increase  in  the  three 
last-nain(!tl  counties,  especially  Cache,  may  aeconnt  in  some  mi'asnre  for  the  decreaso 
in  the  other  eoiinlies  named,  from  the  fact'lhat,  during  the  fall  of  )H,V.>  and  the  spring 
of  IHdCt,  very  nianv  wealthy  families  moved  with  their  stock  and  effects  to  form  new 
wMlIeiniiilHin  Cache  and  Sun  I'ete  counlles,  and  prohahly  the  same  may  he  said  of 
IJenver." 

The  tax  of  all  the  eonnties  nmonnts  to  iJi'i.t.lttW  50;  the  totals  of  nuditorV  awards 
issued  ijillt,  |K|  HM,  which,  loeethcr  with  fi.ll.lt)  '.Kt  payaldo  on  appropriations  here- 
tofore made,  shows  that  tho  Mormons  have  the  K'ood  sense  to  keep  clear  of  ii  Terri- 
torial ileltt. 

•  Tho  act  ineoriMiratinK  tho  nociety,  which  wan  estalilished  "with  n  vle,v  of  pnv 
m->tng  ij...  ..»«s  ..f  J,.!i..<.i|,j   liwJustrVi  "isd  to  ciiijijuriufii  thn  |iriiduction  of  nrtldei 


Chap.  VI.  INDUSTRY  OF  GEEAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


317 


City  in  1860— will  prove  that  the  infant  colony  has  supplied  all 
Its  actual  wants,  and  will  show  what  energy  and  perseverance  can 

from  the  native  elements  in  this  Territory,'  was  approved  on  January  17  185G  Tho 
Board  consists  of  a  President,  si-.  Directors,  a  Treasurer,  and  a  Sccretury_the  lat- 
ter, my  tnend  Mr.  Thomas  BuUock^,  ^ 

Class  E.— Fakmino  Implements  made  in  the  Terbitoky. 
Awarding  Committee — I 


Bent  plow ^  OO  BoHt 

'ill  do a  00    'id 

i!d  do (lip.  Ilest 

Bent  subsoil  plow B  0(1      M 

2d          do 3  OU  Be^t 

8d          do dip.      Ud 

Bwt  harrow 5  oO  Best 

2d     do 8  00      2d 

3d     do dip,  U.St 

Best  field-roller 5  oO     2d 

2d         do dip.  B.at 

Best  drill  uud  lrri(;ator ...  B  00      2d 

2d               do.               ...  ,iip.  Bci-t 

B<yt  corn-planter 5  (10     2d 

2d         do dip.      3d 

Best  1  horao  com  cultivator  5  (lO  Ikst 

2d                do.  dlp.i     2d 

Bo»t  grnln-crudle 5  00  B.:8t 

2d        do dip.l 


-Ira  Eldredge,  Daniel  Carter,  Levi  E.  Rittcr. 

horjc-rake $5  00|2d  be?t  spade 

do dip. 'Beat  hoc '."" 

garden-rako 1  OOI     2d  do 

''"•  dip.  Best  wheel-barrow!!!..'..' 

hay-riiko 1  oO     2d  do 

•J" dip.  IBeet  clieese-prces 

hay-fork 1  oO     2d         do:         

''0 dip.  Ilipst  chum 

maniirc-fork 1  oOl    2d    do 

,<1" dip. 'Best  butter  tub'and'fiikin! 

Bcythc-aiiath 2  OO!     2d  do. 


do. 

set  of  garden  took. .. .  8  00 

do.              ....  1  00 

do.              dip. 

shovel 2  00 


dip.  Bi'flt  washing  machine. 
"2d  do. 

8d  do. 

Best  spinning-wheel. . . 

2d  do. 


'^° dip. !  licst  8  corn  brooms 

spade 2  00,     Sd  do. 


dip. 

$2  00 
dip. 
2  00 
dip. 
2  00 
dip. 
2  00 
dip. 

2  00 
dip. 

3  Oil 
2  00 
dip. 

2  00 
dip. 

3  (K) 
dip. 


BcPt  reaping  macliino  . . . 

2d  do.  .    ... 

8d  do. 

Best  tlireshing  machine . 

21  do. 

8d  do. 


Agkicultural  JIaciunes. 

.$10  00  2d  Ijcst  fanning  mill $3  00 

.     5  OOl     od  do.  dip 

dip.  Bist  rnm-sheller 8  00 

.   10  00,     2d         do 2  00 

B  00;     M  do.         dip. 

dip.  Bist  corn  and  cob  mill  ...     5  00 


Best  hemp  and  flax  dress- 

ing  machine JB  OO 


2d  d... 

Be.'t  hay  and  straw  cutter 

2d  do. 

Ui  St  vegetable  root-cutter. 

2d  do. 


Best  fanning-ralll 3  00|    2d  do.  ..     dip, 

Class  F.— Maoiiineuy. 
Awarding  Comn:!ttce— Frederick  Kcslcr,  John  Kny,  William  J.  Silver, 


dip. 

B  00 

dip. 
B  00 
dip. 


Host  stcnm-cngino $10  001  Hist  lath  miichino S-B  00 

'M  do dip.l     2d  do dip. 

Best  flre-cngino 10  00  Best  stavo  niaihlno B  00 


M        do dip. 

Best  gtirden-engino 6  00 

2d            'o dip. 

Be»t  bnhince B  00 

id     do dip. 


2d            do dip. 

Dest   stono- dressing   nia- 

chlno B  00 

2d                 do.  ,!l|i. 

Best  stonc-sBwIug  machine  B  00 


2d  bist  stone-sawing  nia- 

ehlne din. 

Ili'st  pump  for  a  well 9B  00 

2d            do.            dip. 

Best  watcT-whicl  for  mU- 

lug waterfor irrigation  BOO 

2d                do.  8  00 

Ud                do.  dip. 


Class  G. — Li;.VTiii.n. 
Awarding  Committon— Seth  Tuff,  John  Lowe,  Francis  Platte. 


Br't  side  sole  leather $3  00  Hist  side  skirting $2  00 


Best  pairgcnlh'inen'salogn 


1m  Ol8. 

2d  do. 

lU'iit  pair  gcntlimcn's  flno 

shoes  

2d  do. 


3d  do.  Up.  I     2d  do.  dip. 

Best  slilc  upper  cowhide  . .     8  00  Best  saddle 6  00 

2d  do.  ..      dip.'     2d     do dip. 

Ui'st  kip  skin 8  00  !!,■•(  light  hanii'ss B  00 

Sd      do din,      2d  do dip. 

Best  ciilf^kin !l(H)  lU'H  heavy  harness B  (Kl'  Hi  st  pair  ladles'  bootees  . . 

2il      do dip.      '.'d  do.  dip.(     U  do. 

Best  Moroero-skla B  00  B  -t  briillo 8  <«•  He»l  piiir  Indlis'  shoes 

2d  do Up.      2d     do dip.i     lid  do. 

Itesl  side  Imrness 8  00  Best  pair  genllemen'ii  fluo  ,lie«Milacking  or  polish    .. 

Sd         do dip.  booU 100      2d  do.  .      . 

I    9d  do.  dip.  I 

Clahs  II.— Cldtiikh,  Dnv-Goons,  ani>  Dve-Rti-ffs. 
AwnrdiriK  Conniiittot,'— E.  11.  Yduiik,  John  Necdimm,  N.  H.  Felt, 

.'111  lie«l  made  suit  of  biu'k-  13d  best  B  yards  of  cnloreil 
'kin dip.         flnnniil 

lU'stB  yanis  of  colored  lian-  illest  B  yards  of  while  flnn- 

lii'l $9  no         ml 

Id  du.  1  iNii    U,l  j.. 


Dost  made  suit  of  clotbt-s..  $B  00 
8d  do.  ,.     8  INI 

Rd  d'>.  ..      dip. 

Ilest  made  suit  of  buckskin  B  00 
IM  du.  8  UU 


$1  00 
dip. 

1  00 
dip. 
1  (0 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 
1  (M) 
d'p. 


dtp. 

$a  on 

1  09 


818 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VI. 


effect  against  time  and  all  manner  of  obstructions.    Besides  the 
industries  mentioned  below,  there  are  stores,  cutlery  shops,  watch. 

Class  H.-Clothes,  Dry-Goods,  and  DvE-SxuFF8-Co««/n«ed. 

|3d  heBl  5  yarda  of  woolen  IBest  clothcap $1  00 


Sd  b08t  t)  yards  of  white 


2d      do. 


dip. 


Bcst6?ariB-ofwUlie-j^  $3  ^B..t  pair  of  woolen  blaukeU  $3^W 


fiannel'..  ._...,..,••■•  .i''PiL...*i?HVfV..:0,;^;Wi;,",kpU  ss:? 00  Bc^t fur rauff 1  6o 

2d      do dip. 

Best  fur  cape 1  00 

2d      do dip. 

B<!8t  1  lb.  Indigo 10  00 

2d        do 6  OO 

3d        do 3  00 

4th       do dip. 


2d  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  5  yards  of  colored  jeans 

2d  do. 

3d                 do. 
Best  6  yards  of  white  Lln- 
sey 

2d  do. 

3d                 do. 
Best  5  yards  of  colored  Lln- 
sey 

2d  do. 

8d  do. 

Beat  5  yards  of  kersey .... 

2d  do.  

3d  do.  

Best   6   yards   of  woolen 


1  00;    2d  do. 
dip.  iBest  piece  of  woolen  carpet 

2  OO;    2d  do. 

1  00  Best  piece  of  rng  carpet, 
dip. 


a  00 
1  00 
dip. 


dip. 
2  00 
dip. 
2  00 
dip. 


2d  do. 

Beet  coverlet 2  *•<> 

Bj?ne^.rug;:::::::::  ^^^^^-z^'^v-v-'lt 

Be*t  woolen  shawl.. 2^00J     8d^        do.  

?^SS|B|5ya^ofiin;i::::::  ^^^^i:^'^!^^ 

2  00  Bept  1  lb.  of  linen  thread 


00 


1  00 


1  00 
dip. 


9d 


-loth  a  00  Best  fur  cap . 

'''°"' di.  1  00.     2d     do.      . 


2d  do.  ..     dip.] 

Bestfurhat 2  «I0: 

2d     do dip.| 


this    Territory,  oplde 
from  indigo  or  madder  10  00 


a  00 
dip.' 


ad 
8d 
4th 


do. 
do. 
do. 


500 
3  00 
dip. 


Class  I.— Fcusitcre,  CooriiR-WAnE,  etc 
Awarding  Committee-Miles  Romney,  Archibald  N.  Hill,  Thomas  Allman 
$3  00  Hc.t  offlce.de.lc $3  .00|Bo_Kt  gallon  of  varnish.        ' 


no"t  bureau . 

2<1     do.     ^'P 

Bcstsofa 8'Hi 

2d  do.   il'P' 

Bc»t  bcd:«tcad »  f^' 

U      do.      ^iP^ 

Best  six  oUaira ",'"' 

2d       do dip 

Be»t  centre-table •>  wi 

2d         do.         dip. 

Beat  dinlng-tablo 8  00 

2d         do.         dip. 

Beat  ladlea'  work^iland. . .  2  (M) 

2d              do.             ...  dip. 


2d        do dip. 

Bist  rocking-chair 2  'lO 

2d  da  dip. 

Best     specimen    of    wood 

carving  

2,1                do. 
Best  specimen  French  pol- 
ish  ■• 

2d  do. 

Kcst     specimen     cooper  s 

ware 

2d  do. 

llest  specimen  of  glue .... 
2d  do. 


2  00 
dip. 

a  00 

dip. 

a  00 

dip 
1  00 
dip. 


p  00 

2d             do.              dip. 

Bc.^t  gallon  of  castor-oil ...  2  (K) 

2d               do.              ...  dip. 

Best  gallon  of  linseed-oil. .  2  00 

2d               do.               ..  dip. 

Ikst  "»llon  of  turpentine.  8  00 

2d "             do.  2  00 

3d                 da  dip. 

Best  6  lbs.  of  rosin 2  tKt 


2d  d". 

3d  do 

Best  6  lbs.  of  lampblack  . 
2d  do. 

Sd  da 


1  00 
dip. 
200 
1  00 
dip. 


Class  J.— Paintino,  Engraving,  etc. 
Awarding  Committee-James  M.  Barlow,  James  Beck,  John  H.  Ruraell. 

I ...  .n...»  unprlmen  of  DRPCr  ...  $3  00l2d  best  piece  of  sc\dpture. . 

'^      9.^  Oo'     2d  d*  •..  'i  OOlUcst  specimen  of  turning.. 

o  (lOi     ad  do.  ...  dip.      2d  do. 

din  'Best  landscape    of   Great  Ilest  specimen  of  engraving 

BOflj         Salt  1-ako  Valley S.^O.^ad.    .  ,  „„ 

a  Ol)|     2d  do.  dip. 

dip.  Best  blrd's-oyo  view  of  Salt 

n  00i        UkoClty 8  00 

a  00,     2d  da  dliK 

diu.UcBtoll  painting ^,<'" 

'^  I    8d         do ■"•• 

8  00  Best  trnnaparent  window, 

9  00         blinds 2  00 

dip.      2d  do.  dip. 

IBest  piece  of  sculpture 


Beit    specimen    of 
paiuiiug 

2d  da 

8d  do. 

Best  specimen  of  graining 

2d  da 

8d  do. 

Best  specimen  of  printing 

Set  do. 

8d                do. 
Dest  si)cclmen  of  book-bind- 
ing   • 

8d  da 

8d  do. 


9  0(1 


Best  spccimeu  of  penman- 

sliip 

2d                da 
8d                do. 
licst  specimen  of  penman- 
sldp  in  Deserit  char- 
acter  

2d  da 

8d  do. 


dip. 
$2  00 
dip. 
200 
dip, 

800 
200 
dip. 


3  00 
2  no 
dip. 


Claas  K.— CirTLEUY,  Hardware,  etc. 
Awarding  Committce-Levi  Richards,  ZcchariaU  B.  Derrick,  Jonathan  rugmiro, 

.^dbostaxo dll 

lU'st  door-leck $» 


l\t.\  ,pwimen  of  cutlery  m  be.!  riHe.  ■.•■••• '"P: 

onacard fn  OOJtest  revulvinu  pl»l»» 5^^ 

2d  do.  2  0«1    Vd  do am 

Si  do. 

IW..t pruning  shean......     r^^^y-^y    ~    -j„-  ,„p_ 


2  00      ,, 

dip.      ad  da  .....     dip. 

1  (KllJcst  5  lb«.  gunpowder— «U.  nied 


2d 

IV«<t  rine. 
•(d  da  . 


illp.l 
6  00.1 


6  flO,Ile«t  axo  , 

2  00;    ^d  da  . 


a  ()o 


Vd       do. 

3d  best  dixir-lock 

Ih'st  shovel  and  tongi . 

ad  do. 

Hd  da 


\  CQ.Bi'St  fisdiroHSi 


I 

1  00 
dip. 

2  OO 

t  no 
dip. 
2  UO 


Chap.  VI. 


INDUSTRY  OF  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


319 


makers  and  jewelers,  painters  and  glaziers,  brush-makers,  cabinet- 
makers, and  skillful  turners — for  the  most  part  English.  Iron 
and  brass  founderies  are  in  contemplation,  and  a  paper-mill  is 


Class  K. — Cctleet,  Hardware,  etc. — Continued. 


2a  best  andirons 

3d      do 

Bcft  5  lbs.  of  cut  nails . 

2d  do. 

3d  do. 


$1  00  Best  specimen  of  twine  and 

dip.l        cord $100 

3  00      2d  do.  dip. 

2  OOlBest  specimen  of  wliips. . .     1  00 

dip.l     2d  do.  ...      dip 

BcstSlbs.  ofwrouglitnalla    2  00  Best  specimen  of  baslceta..    2  00 
2d                 do.  1  OOi     2d  do.  ..1  (lO 

3d                 do.  dip.      8d  do.  ..      dip. 

Best  60  yards  of  rope 2  00  Best   specimen   of   combs 


2d 
8d 


do. 
do. 


1  00 
dip. 


made  of  horn,  bone,  and 
mountain  mahogany. .    2  CO 
2d  do.  1  00 


3d  best  specimen  of  combs 
made  of  horn,  bone,  anil 
mountain  mahogany  . .    dip. 
Best  specimen  of  glass— sil,  med. 
2d  do.  dip. 

Best  sprcimen  of  eartlicn- 

ware $3  00 

2d  do.  2  00 

3d  do.  dip. 

Best  aand-paper 2  00 

2d         do.        1  (10 

8d         do.        dip. 


Class  L. — Women's  Work. 
Awarding  Committee— Mia.  Fanny  Little, Taft,  Marion  Beatie,  Sarah  Brcrni. 


Beat    ornamental    needle- 

worlc $1  00 

2d                 do.  0  00 

M                 do.  dip. 

Bi'st  specimen  of  Ayrsliire 

needleworlt 1  00 

2d                do.  0  60 

r>(l                 dn.  dip. 

Best  ottoman  cover 1  00 

2d           do 0  50 

3d           do dip. 

Best  table  cover 1  00 

2d         do.         0  60 

3d         do dip. 

Best  woikiMl  shawl 1  00 

2(1           do 0  60 

Gd           do.          dip. 

Best    worked    collar    and 

han(lkerchi(.f 1  00 

2d                do.  0  60 

8d                 do.  dip.  I 

Best  worked  cushion 1  oo! 

2d             do.             0  5il 

8d           do.           dip.i 


B.'st  lace  cap 

2(1      do 

3d      do 

Best  group  of  flowci's 

2d  do 

3d  do.  

Best    specimen    of    wax 
flowers 

2d  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  ornamental  shell-work 

ad  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  pair  worked  slippers. 

0(1  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  pair  woolen  hose  . . 

2(1  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  pair  cotton  hose  . . . 

2d  do. 

3d  da 

Best  embroidered  shawl 

2d  do. 


$1  00 

0  60 
dip. 

1  00 

0  fO 
dip. 

1  00 

0  60 
dip. 

1  (10 

0  .'>0 
dip. 

1  00 

0  60 
dip. 

1  00 

0  51 
dip. 

1  00 

0  60 
dip. 

1  00 
0  DO 


2d  best  embroidered  shawl  dip. 

Best  variety   of    crocliet- 

work $1  00 

2d                do.  0  50 

Sd                do.  dip. 

Best  worked  quilt 1  no 

2d         do 0  60 

3d         do dip. 

Best  patch-work  quilt ....  1  00 

2d             do.             0  50 

3d             do.              ....  dip. 

Best  specimen  of  knitting.  1  dO 

2d                 do.  0  50 

8d                 do.  dip. 

Best  straw  hat 9  00 

2d        do 1  00 

3d        do dip. 

Best  straw  bonnet 2  00 

2d          do.          1  00 

8d          do dip. 

Best    specimen    of    braU 

..traw  or  grass 1  00 

2a                do.  0  50 

8d                do.  dip. 


Class  M. — Prodcce. 


Awarding  Committee — Ricliard  Goliglitly,  George  Goddard,  Eli  B.  Kclsoy. 


Best  6  lbs.  of  butter $3  00 

2(1           do.           1  (iO 

3d           da           dip. 

Best  cheese 2  On 

2d     do 1  Oil 

i'>d     di> dip. 

Best  ham 2  on 

2d  do 1  00 

8(1  do dip. 


2(1  best  gallon  of  molasses. 

3(1  do. 

Best  liomo-mado  wino  . . . . 

2(1  do. 

3d  do. 

Best  preserve^,  pumpkins. 

2d  do. 

Best  preserves,  tomatoes. . 

"1  do. 


Best  10  lb.'«.  of  sugar 10  ()0 ,  Host  preserves  of  any  kind 


2d  do.  6  no 

IM  do.  dip. 

Best  gallon  of  molassoi ...    9  OJ 


2(1  do. 

Il'st  plckU's,  cucurabiTs  , 
2d  do. 


$1  00 
dip. 
3  00 
2  00 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 
1  00 
dip. 
1  0(1 
dip. 
1  IIO 
dip. 


Rest  pickles,  tomatoes  . . 

. .  $1  00 

2(1             do. 

. .     dip. 

Be.^t  pickles,  cabbages  . . 

..     1  00 

2d             do. 

. .     dip. 

Best  pickles,  onions .... 

..    1  00 

2(1           do 

Best  6  lbs.  of  soap 

..     dip. 

..    3  (K» 

2(1          do 

..    2  00 

Cd         do 

..  dip. 
..    2  00 

Best  3  lbs.  of  Btarcb 

2(1           do 

..    1  00 

8d           do 

..     dip. 

Class  N. — Essays. 
Awarding  Committee — President  and  Board  of  Directors. 

Best  essay  on  ngrlculturc  $10  00  Best  essay  on  liortlculture  fflO  00  Best  essay  on  home  mnnu- 

2d  do.  ell.  med.  j    2d  do.  sil.  uicd.  I        facturoa $10  00 

I  I    2d  do.  sli.  med. 

By  order  of  the  Board  of  tlic  Dcscrct  Agricultural  and  Mnnnfncturing  Society. 

Edwaud  Hunter,  President. 
Thomas  Bcllook,  Secretary. 
Great  Bait  Ijike  t'lty.  May  18. 1840. 


I 


IH 


n 


ff 


I 


mf. 


m 


820 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VL 


coming  across  tlie  prairies.  The  cutlery  is  good,  the  swords, 
spears,  and  Congress  knives,  the  pruning-hooks,  saws,  and  locks 
are  yearly  improving,  and  the  imitations  of  Colt's  revolvers  can 
hardly  be  distinguished  from  the  originals.  The  distilleries,  of 
course,  can  not  expect  prizes.  The  whisky  of  Utah  Territory, 
unlike  the  Monongahela  or  rye  of  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Bour- 
bon, or  maize  brandy  of  Kentucky,  is  distilled  from  wheat  only; 
it  is,  in  fiict,  the  korn  schnapps  of  the  trans-Rhenme  region  This 
"Valley  Tan  "  being  generally  pure,  is  better  than  the  alcohol  one 
part  and  water  one°part,  colored  with  burnt  sugar  and  flavored 
with  green  tea,  which  is  sold  under  the  name  of  Cognac.  Ale 
and  cakes  are  in  higher  flavor  than  the  "  villainous  distillation :" 
there  are  two  large  and  eight  small  breweries  in  which  a  palata- 
ble Lager-bier  is  made.  The  hop  grows  wild  and  luxuriant  in 
every  kanyon ;  and  there  is  no  reason  why  in  time  the  John  Bar- 
leycorn of  the  Saints  should  not  rival  that  of  the  sinners  in  lands 
where  no  unfriendly  legislation  tries,  or  will,  it  is  hoped,  ever  try, 

««To  rob  a  poor  man  of  his  beer." 

Hand-labor  obtains  $2  per  diem,  consequently  much  work  is 
done  at  home.  The  fair  sex  still  cards,  spins,  and  weaves,  as  in 
Cornwall  and  Wales,  and  the  plurality  system  supplies  them  with 
leisure  for  the  exercise  of  the  needle.  Excellent  blankets,  the 
finest  linens,  and  embroidered  buckskin  garments,  varying  in 
prices  from  $75  to  $500— a  splendid  specimen  was,  at  the  time 
of  my  stay,  being  worked  for  that  "  Champion  of  oppressed  na- 
tionalities,"" M.Louis  Kossuth— are  the  results.        ^  ,  -.  ,    ^. 

As  in  India,  the  mere  necessaries  of  life  at  Great  Suit  Lake  City 
are  cheap:  the  foreign  luxuries,  and  even  comforts,  are  exorbi- 
tantly dear.  A  family  may  live  almost  for  nothing  upon  vege- 
tables grown  in  their  own  garden,  milk  from  their  own  cows, 
wheaten  bread,  and  butter  which  derives  a  peculiar  sweetness 
-  from  the  bunch-grass.  For  some  reason,  which  no  one  can  ex- 
plain, there  is  not,  and  there  never  has  been,  a  market  at  Great 
Salt  Lake  City ;  consequently,  even  meat  is  expensive.  Freight 
upon  every  article,  from  a  bar  of  soap  to  a  bar  of  iron,  must  bo 
reckoned  at  14  cents  (7t/.)  per  lb.  coming  from  tlie  East,  and  25-30 
cents  from  the  West.  Groceries  and  clothing  are  inordi-iatcly 
high-pricod.  Sugar,  worth  6  cents  in  the  United  States,  here 
fetches  from  37^  to  45  cents  per  lb.  Tea  is  seldom  drunk,  and  rs 
coffee  of  10  cents  per  lb.  in  the  States  here  costs  4_J-50  cents, 
burnt  beans  or  toasted  corn,  a  caricature  of  chicory,  is  the  usual 
succedanenm.  Counterblasters  will  be  pleased  to  hear  that  to- 
bacco fetclies  $1  per  lb.,  and  cigars  from  5  to  6  cent.s  cacl)— a 
London  |)rice.  Servants'  wages  vary  from  $30  to  $40  per  men- 
sem—nearly £100  per  annum;  consequently,  master  has  a  strong 
inducement  to  marry  the  "  missus's"  Abigail.  Thus  the  expense 
of  living  in  Utah  Tenitory  is  higher  thau  iu  the  Eastern  States, 


Chap.  VI. 


PRICES  AT  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


821 


where  again  it  exceeds  that  of  England.  In  Great  Salt  Lake 
City  $10,000  (=£2000)  per  annum  -would  be  equal  to  about  £500 
in  London.  Fortunately  for  the  poor,  the  excessive  purity  of  the 
air,  as  in  the  Arabian  Desert,  enables  them  to  dispense  with,  and 
not  to  miss,  many  articles,  such  as  stimulants,  which  are  elsewhere 
considered  necessaries.  The  subjoined  " nerrick"  of  prices  current 
at  the  General  Tithing  Oflace  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City  will  best 
explain  the  state  of  things  in  1860.  A  remarkable  feature,  it 
will  be  observed,  is  the  price  of  wheat— $1  50  per  bushel— more 
than  double  its  current  value  in  the  Mississippian  States.* 

*  General  Tithing  Office  Prices  Current,  Great  Salt  Lake  City : 
Wheat,  extra  produce  tithing. ....  $1  50  't!  bush.  Mutton $0  08  @0  12i  ^  ft. 


labor  and  produce  tithing.    2  00 

Barley 150  " 

Com 1  50  " 

Bye 1  60  " 

Oats 1  00  " 

Buckwheat 1  25  " 

Peas  and  beona 2  00  " 

Potatoes 0  75  " 

Beets 0  50  " 

Carrots 0  50  » 

Parsnips 0  60  " 

Onions 2  on  " 

Turnips 0  25  " 

Tomatoes.  ...^ 1  00  " 

Cabbages $n  02  @0  10  each. 

Pumpkins  and  squash 0  02  @0  OS  " 

Melons 0  02  @0  10  " 

Cucumbers 0  01  " 

PigH,  four  weeks  old 3  00  " 

Chickens 0  10  (3,0  26  " 

Ducks 0  15  @0  25  " 

Beef,  6t  average. 

Hind  quarter 0  07  ?)  »'. 

Fore       "       0  08  " 

Tallow 0  10  @0  20  " 

I'ork 0  12J@0  2i>  " 

Lard 0  16  @0  20  " 


Veal 0  03  (aO  05 

Bear 0  08  @0  121-  " 

Tea 1  60  @3  60     " 

Coffee  . .' 0  40  @0  60    " 

Sugar 0  35  @0  60    " 

Milk 0  10?)qt. 

Ksgs 0  IS-Bdoz. 

Butter 0  25  %1 11. 

Cheese 0  121@0  25 

Salt,  fine 0  04 

Salt,  coarse 0  10 

Cast  steel,  warranted 0  37J@0  50 

Spring  steel 0  37^ 

Blister  steel   0  18  @0  30 

Iron 0  10 

Molasses,  good 3  00  ^  gnll. 

Vinegar 0  BO  @0  75      " 

Lumber,  extra  produce  titliing  4  00  ^  100. 

"       labor  titliing 6  00      " 

Shingles,  best 10  00  ii  lOOo. 

"        2d  quality 8  00       " 

Shingles,  cotton-wood 8  00       " 

"        2d  quality 6  00        " 

Oovcs 0  ijj  each. 

Turkeys 1  50  @2  60      " 

Fox  and  wolf  skins 0  76      " 

Oxliair 0  50'Bbusli. 

Edwabd  Hunteb,  Presiding  Bishop. 


•  \    'k  i '  I 


322 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  VII. 


TUB  DEAD  SEA. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Third  Week  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City.— Excursions. 

Governor  Gumming  had  asked  me  to  accompany  Madam  and 
himself  to  the  shores  of  the  lake,  with  an  ulterior  view  to  bathiug 
and  picnicking. 

One  fine  morning,  at  10  A.M.,  duly  provided  with  the  nkes- 
saire  and  a  thermometer — which  duly  snapped  in  two  before  im- 
mersion— we  set  out  down  the  west  road,  crossed  the  rickety  two- 
laned  bridge  that  spans  the  holy  stream,  and  debouched  upon  a 
mirage-haunted  and  singularly  ugly  plain.  Wherever  below  tho 
line  of  dcbordement  of  the  lake's  sjiring  freshet,  it  is  a  mere  des- 
ert; whore  raised,  however,  the  land  is  cultivable,  from  the  Wa- 
sach  ^[ountains  to  Spring  Point,  at  the  north  of  the  Oquirrh,  giv- 
ing about  eighty  square  miles  of  fertile  land.  The  soil,  as  near 
the  lake  generally,  is  a  thin  layer  of  saline  humus,  overspreading 
gravel  and  pebbles.  The  vegetation  is  scattered  artemisia,  rose- 
bushes, the  Enphorhia  luherosa  and  other  varieties  of  milk-weed, 
the  grea.sewood,  salicornias,  and  several  salsolacotv.  There  arc 
numerous  salt  deposits,  all  wet  and  miry  in  the  rainy  season;  and 
the  animals  that  meet  the  sight  are  the  coyote,  the  badger,  and 
the  hideous  Phrynosoma.  A  few  blue  cranes  and  sago-chickens, 
which  are  eatable  till  October,  were  seen  ;  and  during  winter  the 
wild-fowl  are  found  in  large  flocks,  and  the  sweet-water  stn^ams 
are  stocked  with  diminutive  fish.  In  contrast  with  the  bald  and 
shaven  aspect  of  the  plain,  rose  behind  us  the  massive  forms  of 


Chap.  VII. 


MARE  MORTUUM. 


323 


the  Wasacli  Mountains,  robed  in  forests,  mist-crowned,  and  show- 
ing a  single  streak  of  white,  which  entitles  them  to  the  poetical 
boast  of  eternal  snow — snow  apparently  never  being  respectable 
without  eternity. 

After  fifteen  miles  of  good  road  we  came  to  the  Point  o'  the 
Mountain— the  head  of  the  Oquirrh,  also  called  West  Mountain 
—where  pyramidal  buttes  bound  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
lake.  Their  horizontal  lines  are  cleanly  cut  by  the  action  of  wa- 
ter, and  fall  in  steps  toward  the  plain.  Any  appearance  of  regu- 
larity in  the  works  of  Nature  is  always  pleasing— firstly,  because 
it  contrasts  with  her  infinite  diversty ;  and,  secondly,  because  it 
displays  her  grandeur  by  suggesting  comparison  with  the  minor 
works  of  mankind.  Eanches  and  corrals,  grass  and  cattle,  now 
began  to  appear,  and  the  entrance  of  a  large  cave  was  pointed  out 
to  me  in  the  base  of  the  buttes.  We  drove  on,  and  presently 
emerged  upon  the  shores  of  this  "  dead  and  desert"— this  "  still 
and  solitary"  sea.  It  has  not  antiquity  enough  to  have  become 
the  scene  of  fabulous  history;  the  early  Canadian  voyageurs,  how- 
ever, did  their  best  to  ennoble  it,  and  recounted  to  wondering- 
strangers  its  fearful  submarine  noises,  its  dark  and  sudden  stormsj 
and  the  terrible  maelstrom  in  its  centre,  which,  funnel-like,  de- 
scended into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  I  believe  that  age  is  its 
only  want ;  with  ji^osi-lifeless  waters,  a  balance  of  evaporation 
and  supply— ever  a  mystery  to  the  ignorant— and  a  horned  frog, 
the  Dead  Sea  of  the  New  World  has  claims  to  preternaturalism 
at  least  equal  to  those  of  its  sister  feature,  the  volcano  of  depres- 
sion, in  the  Old  Hemisphere. 

The  first  aspect  of  Mare  Mortuum  was  by  no  means  unprepos- 
sessing. As  we  stood  upon  the  ledge,  at  whose  foot  lies  the  sel- 
vage of  sand  and  salt  that  bounds  the  wave,  we  seemed  to  look 
upon  the  sea  of  the  Cyclades.  The  sky  was  light  and  clear,  the 
water  of  a  deep  lapis-lazuli  blue,  flecked  here  and  there  with  the 
smallest  of  white  horses — tiny  billows,  urged  by  the  warm  soft 
wind ;  and  the  feeble  tumble  of  the  surf  upon  the  miniature  sands 
reminded  me,  with  the  first  surveyor,  "of  scenes  far,  far  away, 
where  miglitier  billows  pay  their  ceaseless  tribute  to  the  strand." 
In  front  of  us,  and  bounding  the  extreme  northwest,  lay  Antelope 
o<'  Church  Island,  rising  in  a  bold  central  ridge.  This  rock  forms 
the  western  horizon  to  those  looking  from  the  city,  and  its  deli- 
cate pink — the  eft'cct  of  a  ruddy  caVpct  woven  with  myriads  of 
small  flowers— blushing  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  is  ever  an 
interesting  and  beautiful  object.  Nearer,  it  has  a  brown  garb, 
almost  without  a  tinge  of  green,  except  in  rare,  scattered  spots; 
its  benches,  broken  by  gashes  and  gullies,  rocks  and  ravines,  are 
counterparts  to  those  on  the  main  land ;  and  its  form  and  tintage, 
softened  by  the  damp  overhanging  air,  and  contrasting  with  ^le 
light  blue  sky  and  the  dark  ultramarine  streak  of  sea  at  its  base, 
add  greatly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  view.     The  foretrround 


o 


'i 


I 


324 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VII. 


is  a  strip  of  sand,  yellow  where  it  can  be  seen,  incrusted  with 
flakes  of  salt  like  the  icing  of  a  plum-cake,  and  bearing  marks  of 
submergence  in  the  season  of  the  sprng  freshets.  Atthe  water's 
edge  is  I  broken  black  line  of  a  peculiar  drift,  which  stands  boldly 
out  from  the  snowy  whiteness  around.  Where  my  sketch  was 
taken  I  looked  as  through  a  doorway  whose  staples  were  two  de- 
taohed  masses  of  stone  On  the  right  rose  an  irregular  heap  of 
rn^lomTateand  sandstone,  attached  to  the  Jedgc  belim^^^^^^^ 
leaning  forward  as  if  about  to  fall.  On  the  left,  the  Black  liock, 
wffcan  be  seen  as  a  dot  from  the  city,  a  heap  of  flint  conglom- 
Trae,  imbedded  in  slaty,  burnt,  and  altered  clay  formed  the  ter- 
minating bluff  to  a  neck  of  light  sand  and  dark  stone. 

Befor?  proceeding  to  our  picnic,  I  will  briefly  resume  the  his- 
toryand  geography  of  this  kare  Mortuum.  The  Baron  de  la 
Hontan  the  French  goyernor  of  Placentia,  in  Newfoundland, 
fbout  1690,\caid  from  Indians  of  a  Great  Salt  Water  which  he 
caused  to  disembogue  through  a  huge  riyer  into  the  South  Sea 
o?  Pacific  Ocean.  Like  the  Lake  Tanganyika,  m  Central  Africa, 
?t  was  arrayed  in  the  garb  of  fable,  300  leagues  of  length  30_  of 
breadth  with  "100  towns  about  it,"  like  Mr.  Cooley's  highly  im- 
Satiy'e  "Zanganica,"  and  nayigatcd  in  large  boats  by  the  sav- 
ale  Mozeemleks,  who  much  remind  one  of  the  old  semi-mytlucal 
» Mono-moezi."  Doubtless  many  a  trapper  and  obscure  trader 
has  since  that  time  visited  it;  a  name  or  two  has  been  found  upon 
the  adjacent  rocks,  but  those  were  brayes  who,  ^  speak  metapbor- 
ically,  liyed  before  the  age  of  Agamemnon.  In  184o  Colonel 
Sont,  then  engaged  with  his  second  expedition  made  a  par- 
tial  flying  survey,  which,  in  1849-50,  was  scientifically  completed 
by  Captain  Howard  Stansbury. 

In  geologic  ages  the  lake  occupied  the  space  between  the  Sierra 
Madrf  on  the  e^t,  and  the  ranges  of  Goose  Creek  and  Humboldt 
Riyer  on  the  west.  The  length  is  roughly  computed  at  500  miles 
from  north  to  south,  the  breadth  from  350  to  500  and  the  area  at 
175  000  square  miles.  The  waters  have  declined  into  the  lowest 
part  of  the  basin  by  the  gradual  upheaval  of  tholand,  in  places 
showing  thirteen  successive  steps  or  benches.  A  freshet  ot  a  tew 
yards  would  submerge  many  miles  of  flat  shore,  and  a  rise  of  6o0 
feet  would  in  these  days  convert  all  but  the  highest  peaks  ot  the 
surroundincr  eminences  into  islands  and  islets,  the  kanyons  into 
trS,  creeks,  and  sea-arms,  and  the  bluffs  into  slightly  elevatal 
shores  Popular  opinion  asserts  that  the  process  oi  desiccation  is 
going  on  at  the  rate  of  about  half  a  mile  in  ten  yc^rs.  But  the 
Lite  of  beach  and  drift  line  laid  down  by  Captain  Stansbury  arc 
still  well  defined,  and  the  shrinking  of  the  volume  maybe  ranked 
w  ills  ''sinking''-like  tlie  sink  of  the  Humboldt  and  other  riv- 
ers-an  empirical  explanation,  by  which  the  mountaineer  removes 
the  difficulty  of  believing  that  evaporation  can  drain  oh  the  sup- 
plies of  so  many  rivers. 


Chap.  VII. 


THE  GREAT  SALT  LAKE. 


826 


The  lake,  which  is  about  the  size  of  the  African  Chad,  occupies 
the  northeastern  corner  of  Utah  Territory,  and  lies  to  the  north- 
west of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley,  which  is  forty  miles  long  by 
about  twelve  in  breadth.  The  major  axis  of  the  irregular  paral- 
lelogram is  sixty  to  seventy  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south, 
by  thirty  to  thirty-five  from  east  to  west.  Its  altitude  has  been 
laid  down  at  4200  feet  above,  while  the  Dead  Sea  of  Palestine  is 
1300  feet  below  sea  level.  The  principal  influents,  beginning 
from  the  north,  are  the  Bear  Eiver,  the  Weber  Eiver,  and  the  Jor- 
dan. They  supply  the  balance  of  evaporation,  which  from  water 
is  greater,  and  from  high  lands  is  usually  less,  than  the  rain.  The 
western  side  is  a  perfect  desert — a  salt  and  arid  waste  of  clay  and 
sand,  with  the  consistence  of  mortar  when  wet,  which  can  not  boast 
of  a  single  stream ;  even  the  springs  are  sometimes  separated  by 
"  jomadas"  of  seventy  miles.  When  the  rivers  are  in  flood,  the 
lake,  it  is  said,  rises  to  a  maximum  of  four  feet,  overflowing  large 
tracts  of  level  saline  plain,  winding  between  the  broken  walls  of 
rock  which  surround  it  on  all  sides.  Near  its  shores  the  atmos- 
phere is  reeking,  bluish,  and  hazy,  from  the  effects  of  active  evap- 
oration, and  forms  a  decided  change  from  the  purity  and  trans- 
parency of  the  air  elsewhere.  Surveyors  have  observed  that  it  is 
a  labor  to  use  telescopes  for  geoditic  purposes,  and  that  astronom- 
ical observations  are  very  imperfect.  The  quantity  of  vapor  is 
less,  and  evaporation  has  less  tension  and  density  from  the  sur- 
face of  salt  tlian  of  fresh  water ;  here,  however,  the  operation  is 
assisted  by  sunheat  sufiicient  to  produce  an  aeriform  state,  and  by 
a  wind  brisk  enough  to  prevent  the  vapor  accumulating  over  the 
surface. 

The  water  of  this  remarkable  feature,  which  so  curiously  repro- 
duces the  marvels  of  Judea,  contains  nearly  one  quarter  of  solid 
matter,  or  about  six  times  and  a  half  more  than  the  average  solid 
constituents  of  sea- water,  which  may  be  laid  down  roughly  at  three 
and  a  half  per  cent,  of  its  weight,  or  about  half  an  ounce  to  the 
pound.*    The  Dead  Sea  is  its  sole  known  superior.    The  specific 

♦  "One  hundred  parts  by  weight  were,"  says  Dr.  Gale,  "evaporated  to  dryness  in 
a  water-bath  below  the  boiling-point,  and  then  heated  to  about  300°  of  the  ther- 
mometer, and  retained  at  that  heat  till  the  mass  ceased  to  lose  any  weight.  It  gave 
solid  contents  22-422  (?),  and  consisted  of 


Chloride  of  sodium  (com- 
mon salt) 20-196 

Sulphate  of  soda 1-834 

Chloride  of  magnesium.   0-252 
Chloride  of  calcium a  trace 


■^  In  the  Abbe' 
I  Domenech's 
i  work  the  anal- 
jysis  is  taken 
from  Col.  i're'- 
Total 22-282(?)'V  mont:  thus— 


f  Chloride  of  sodium 97-80 

"        "calcium....  0-61 

"        "  magnesium  0-24 

Sulphate  of  soda 0-28 

"        "lime 1-12 


Total 100-00 

The  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea  give  solid  contents  24-580,  and  consist  of 

Chloride  of  sodium 10-360 

"         "calcium 3-920 

"        "  magnesium 10-246 

Sulphate  of  soda -0.54 

Total 24-580 


il  •!  'i 


It 


I* 


I  I 


!   [i 


826 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VH. 


rnr 


gravity  is  1-170,  distilled  water  being  I'OOO ;  the  North  Atlantic, 
between  latitude  25°  N.  and  longitude  52°  W.  (G.),  1-020 ;  and  the 
Dead  Sea,  at  60°  Fahrenheit,  from  1-227^2  to  1-130.  The  vulgar 
estimate  of  its  saltness  is  exaggerated.  I  have  heard  at  Salt  Lake 
City  of  one  bucket  of  saline  matter  being  produced  by  the  evap- 
oration  of  three ;  and  that  meat  can  bo  salted,  and  corned  beef 
converted  into  junk,  after  twelve  or  fourteen  hours  in  the  natural 
unevaporated  brine.  It  is  used  without  preparation  by  the  citi- 
zens who  have  not  adopted  the  precautions  recommended  by  Dr. 
Gale'.*  It  is  collected  by  boys,  shoveled  into  carts  at  the  points 
of  the  beach  where  the  winds  dash  up  the  waves— forming  a  reg- 
ular wind-tide — and  is  sold  in  retail  at  half  a  cent  per  pound,  or 
two  shillings  per  hundred  pounds.  The  original  basin  of  geolog- 
ical ages  was,  doubtless,  as  the  shells  have  proved,  fresh  water. 
The  s'aline  substances  are  brought  down  by  rain,  which  washes 
the  soil  and  percolates  through  the  rocky  ledges,  and  by  the  riv- 
ers, which  are  generally  estimated  to  contain  from  ten  to  one 
hundred  grains  of  salt  per  gallon,t  and  here  probably  more,  owing 
to  the  abundance  of  soda.  Tlie  evaporation  is,  of  course,  nearly 
pure,  containing  but  very  minute  traces  of  salts. 

It  has  been  generally  stated  that  the  water  is  fatal  to  organic 
life.  The  fish  brought  down  the  rivers  perish  at  once  in  the  con- 
.'XMitrated  brine ;  but,  according  to  the  people,  there  is  a  univalve, 
like  a  periwinkle,  found  at  certain  seasons  within  the  inilucncc 
of  its  saline  waves;  and  I  observed,  floating  near  the  margin,  del- 
icate moss-like  a]ga\  Governor  Camming  mentioned  his  having 
seen  a  leaf,  of  a'  few  in.-,hes  in  length,  lined  with  a  web,  which 
shelters  a  vermicular  animal,  of  reddish  color,  and  about  the  length 
of  the  lixst  joint  of  the  little  finger.     Near  the  shore,  also,  muci- 

Thp  NtroiiKL'st  niitiiriU  brinn  in  tlui  riiitcd  Stntps.  nrcordiiiff  to  Profosnor  Bcfk,  is 
llmt  of  the  Syriii'iiso  Suline,  New  York,  wbicii  coiitiiins  l7-;t5  per  cent,  of  fliloriile  af 

sodium.  ,  ,  , 

*  "The  salt  water" (it  is  clsowhori'  called  "one  of  tlie  purest  ami  most  (oncon- 
trated  brims  known  in  the  world")  "  yiiids  about  '.'0  per  cent,  of  i)ure  eoninion  snlt. 
iiud  about  2  ]«'r  eent.  of  foreign  saim";  most  of  llie  ol)j('cli(iU!d)l(>  parts  of  wliiih  nrc 
tho  chloridi'  of  lime  uud  tiic  cldoridi^  of  riiatjncsiii,  liotii  (if  which,  bi'inn  very  dcii- 

■  luescent,  uttnict  nioi>liiri'  from  liie  (himp  iiimoKplicrc,  which  hns  tiie  elVcet  to  imii<t- 
•n  and  piirtiallv  dissolve  tlie  commnn  sail,  and  tiicu,  when  the  mass  is  cxiioscd  to 

drv  air  or  licat;  or  IkmIi,  n  liard  crn-t  is  formc.i.  I  believe  I  Imvc  found  a  remedy 
fir  the  cakiiu%«hi(li  is  cheap  and  easily  used.  It  consists  in  spvinklin^'  over  the 
alt  obtained  bv  the  evai'oraiion  of  the  water,  and  heajx-d  up  in  a  bin  or  iiox  contain. 
iiiR  a  porous  iMittom  o(  blank,  ts  or  other  like  material,  a  ccdd  scdniion  of  the  sidt  a- 
it  is  eimecntriited  from  the  ]nkr.  till  crystnls  lH'j;in  to  be  de|iosited.  This  coneoii- 
trated  brine,  while  it  will  dis^-olve  none  of  the  common  salt,  will  dissolve  all  the  chlo- 
riiles  of  nileium  and  magnesium,  ami  carry  tliem  down  tllldn^dl  the  porous  huttom, 
and  llius  leave  the  salt  purer  and  better  than  any  now  found  in  our  nnirkets.  Vw 
(lersons  who  are  obliKe<l  to  prepare  ti-inporarily  the  salt,  as  traviders  passinn  throiii-li 
the  c(Mintry,  the  water  of  the  lake,  willumt  c(aicentraiion,  nmy  !»•  nsi'd  for  was|lin^' 

■  ait  the  (hd'iipiescent  chlorides,  sprinkliuK  the  heap  of  salt  by  a  watcrinti-pot  at  inter- 
vals of  two  or  thn-e  hours  duriiij:  a  sinjsio  tiay,  and  aliowinK  it  to  ilndn  mid  dry  lU 
tiight,  and  be  spread  to  the  sun  an  lunir  or  two  the  followinir  inorniiiK," 

t  "The  I'hysical  (Jeonraphy  of  tho  !Sca"  (by  Captain  Muury),  chup.  ix,,  §  502, 
ijaotcd  from  "  Vuuinaiw'  Clieniistry." 


Chap.  VII.  ISLANDS  IN  GREAT  SALT  LAKE.  oo- 

»a„d     We  „,a,  fliJT/rut'Se"  a^ff  IS  £\t 
Dead  Sea  contains  no  living  thino--  whprAo«  «:!fu         ■,  ^^^^ 

norvestige  of  animal  matter«wt°aicoT&£t.™I\^^^^^^^ 
ted^by  a  powerful  n,ioro,copa  in  the  Wrorr'i-ffai: 

uortLre  ''™'"""™  '■■""»•     Tbese,  beginning  fr„rthe 

5.  btansbury  Island,  the  second  lamn^t  in  tl,n  1.1'  . 

"-.with  a  Ingh  cenWal  rid,e  d  JSa;"l'a  o^;%^  S^ 

hVo  «f  n  ""  ^'"  '^'■>'  '*^'^'""  '^  ''^  ^'^™cJ  i"to  a  peninsula 

by  a  sand-bank  conneelnig  it  with  the  lake's  western  she  e     I'hus 
antelopes  deer,  and  coyotes  pass  over  to  browse  upon  tl  >  phn N 
and  to  at  ...ek  the  yonn.cr  ol'  the  dueks,  geeso,  plover  i  11     and 
pHuyuis,  that  make  tJ.eir  ho,nes  upon  ti;e  eliir;.-  i  is  uisu    idT 
grazing  purposes.     The  prineip.al   .lants  are  a  cn»>audn   Z^Z 

tiu::i::z^^f.^:^^^^^^^  i^wi^  and 

6.  Antelope,  also  eallcMl  Clmreh  Island,  because  the  st    k  of  the 
Smnt^  ,s  gonn-ally  k.pt  th.re.     Lying  to  the  east  a, ,   northea  t 

t  ^  tirS;i!:^':r;  "  ^r^]  ^.^^^^^^^-r  and  protracte.1  JilnoH 
t  18  the    argest  of  the  islands,  sixteen  miles  lona  bv  six  of  o* 

Sv ;,  i' ;  :';'v  "'■""""  '•''"■r'  -  ™«te^n^!,foo?brok" 

l«k»,  winch  nllani  a  niaxnnmn  of  MOO  ffc-t  above  llio  lake  and 


!      '   t 


I 


I 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VII. 


7200  above  sea  level.  It  lies  twenty  miles  to  tte  northwest  oftte 
city,  and  the  narrow  passage  between  it  and  the  opposite  plain  is 
fordable.  This  island  is  surrounded  on  the  north  by  a  tufa  bed 
twelve  feet  deep ;  eastward  by  six  feet  of  water ;  southeast  and 
south  by  shoals;  and  westward  by  a  deposit  of  black  mud:  the 
deepest  sounding  in  the  lake,  thirty-five  feet,  is  found  between  it 
and  Stansbury  Island.  Off  the  northwestern  coast  is  a  rock,  call- 
ed, after  its  principal  peculiarity.  Egg  Island:  in  the  eastern  cliff 
there  is  said  to  be  a  cave,  described  to  resemble  the  Blue  Grotto 
at  Capri,  which  has  been  partially  explored.  Formerly  there  was 
a  small  pinnace  on  the  "  Big  Shallow ;"  it  has  either  been  wreck- 
ed or  broken  up  for  fuel.*  Antelope  Island  contains  and  ravines 
and  a  few  green  valleys,  besides  a  spring  of  pure  water,  and,  being 
safe  from  Indians,  it  is  much  esteemed  as  a  grazing-placc. 

7.  Frdmont  Island,  so  named  by  Captain  Stansbury  from  the 
first  explorer,  who  called  it,  after  the  rude  dissipation  of  a  dream 
of  "  tangled  wilderness  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  teeming  with  game 
of  every  description  that  the  neighboring  region  afforded,"  "Dis- 
appointment Island."  The  Mormons  have  preferred  "Castle  Isl- 
and," suggested  by  its  mural  and  turrcted  peak,  that  rises  above 
the  higher  levels.  It  lies  north  and  northeast  from  Antelope  Isl- 
and, parallel  with  the  mouth  of  the  Weber  River,  and  south  of 
Promontory  Point,  the  blulY  termination  of  a  rocky  tongue  which 
separates  Bear-River  Bay  from  the  body  of  the  lake.  Its  shape 
is  a  semilune,  fifteen  miles  in  circumference,  abounding  in  plants, 
especially  the  Indian  onion,  but  destitute  of  wood  and  water. 
Here,  on  the  summit.  Captain  Fremont  lost  the  "  brass  cover  to 
the  object-end  of  his  spy-glass"— <lisdain  not,  gentle  reader,  these 
little  reminiscences  I  —  and  Captain  Stansbury  failed  to  find  the 

relic. 

I  was  surprised  by  the  want  of  freshness  and  atmospheric  elas- 
ticity ill  the  neighborhood  of  the  lake :  the  lips  were  salted  as  by 
sea  air,  but  there  the  similarity  ended.  Wo  prepared  for  bathing 
by  unhitching  the  mules  upon  the  usual  ])icnicking  place,  a  ])atch 
of  soft  white  sand  between  the  raised  shore  of  the  lake  and  the 
water  brink.  The  bank  sunplies  a  plentiful  stream  of  water,  nota- 
ble, though  somewhat  brackish,  bitter,  and  sulphurous  :  it  shows 
its  effects,  however,  in  a  clump  of  plants,  wild  roses,  and  the  eu- 
phorbia of  many  names,  silk-plant,  vaclu-  d  lail,  rapole  de  sacarte, 
and  milk-plant.  Tlie  familiar  magpie  prevented  the  solitude  of 
the  scene  being  too  impressive.  Here  wjus  also  a  vestige  of  hu- 
manity, a  kind  of  "  lean-to"  of  drv  stone  wall,  with  the  bank  for  a 
back-bone:  you  might  have  ridden  over  it  without  knowing  that 
it  belonged  to  Mrs.  Sniitli  of  Vermont,  now  departed,  unless  warn- 

•  In  the  "Hpviio  (ks  ncu.<  Monilcs"  fA]>ril,  lsr,l)wo  ara  told  tlint.  "IVndnnf 
IV'to  un  iiolit  liHii'mi  i»  vn|KMir  fiiit  iin  wrvico  ro)julit'r  «iir  lo  Lm-  Hiik'."  Frwli  proof, 
if  it  Ik«  miuiri'il,  liow  ilinkiill,  or  rnllicr  how  iniiMissililo,  it  i»  for  nny  nmoiint  ot  Inhibit 
or  Inuenuity  in  a  reviewer  to  8iiiii)iy  tlio  wiiiit  of  actual  oju-secing  infornintl.)!!.  The 
"  Lac  Sale  "  ii  not  yet  eonio. 


vm^nt 


Chap.  VII,         THE  BATH  IN  THE  GREAT  SALT  LAKE. 


329 


ed  off  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  what  your  superior  sagacity 
would  have  discovered  to  be  a  chimney. 

The  bathing-place  is  behind  the  Black  Rock.  The  approach  is 
first  over  the  fine  soft  white  sand,  like  that  of  the  sea-shore,  but 
shell-less,  soppy  where  it  receives  the  spring-water,  and  almost  a 
quicksand  near  the  lake.  The  foot  crunches  through  caked  and 
crusty  salt-flakes,  here  white,  there  dark  green,  there  dun-colored 
ilke  hois  de  vachc,  and  every  where  the  reverse  of  aromatic,  and 
sinks  deep  into  the  everlastingly  wet  sand  below.  This  leads  to 
the  neck  of  broken,  riven  stone  pavement,  whose  bead  is  the  Black 
Rock.  As  the  lake  is  neared,  the  basalt-like  surface  becomes  red 
and  rusty,  the  points  are  diamonded  by  sparkling  spicula;,  and  in 
the  hollows  and  crevices  where  the  waters  have  dried  to  salt  it 
gathers  in  the  form  of  icy  lumps.  A  dreadful  shock  then  awaits 
the  olfactory  nerves.  The  black  mud  of  peculiar  drift  before  al- 
luded to  proves  to  be  an  aceldama  of  insects :  banks  a  full  foot 
high,  composed  of  the  larva',  exuvia,  and  mortal  coils  of  myriads 
of  worms,  musquetoes,  gnats,  and  gallinippers,  cast  up  by  the 
waves,  and  lining  the  little  bay,  as  they  ferment  and  fester  in  the 
burning  sun,  or  pickle  and  preserve  in  the  thick  brine.*  Escaping 
from  this  mass  of  fetor,  I  reached  the  farther  end  of  the  promon- 
tory where  the  Black  Rock  stood  decorously  between  the  bath- 
ing-place and  the  picnic  ground,  and  in  a  pleasant  frame  of  curi- 
osity descended  into  the  new  Dead  Sea. 

I  had  heard  strange  accounts  of  its  buoyancy.  It  was  said  to 
support  a  bather  as  if  he  were  sitting  in  an  arm-chair,  and  to  float 
him  like  an  unfresh  egg.  My  experience  diifers  in  this  point 
from  that  of  others.  There  was  no  difliculty  in  swimming,  nor 
indeed  in  sinking.  After  sundry  immersions  of  the  head,  in  order 
to  feel  if  it  reality  stang  and  removed  the  skin,  like  a  mustard 
plaster — as  described — emboldened  by  the  detection  of  so  mucli 
hyperbole,  T  ))roceeded  to  duck  under  with  open  eyes,  and  smart- 
ed "for  my  pains."  ^I'lie  sensation  did  not  come' on  suddenly; 
at  first  there  was  a  sneaking  twinge,  then  a  bold  succession  of 
twinges,  and  lastly  a  steady,  honest  burning  like  what  fijllows  a 
pinch  of  snufl"  in' the  eyes.  There  was  no  fresh  water  at  hand; 
so,  scrambling  upon  thV  rock,  1  sat  there  for  half  an  hour,  pre- 
senting to  Nature  the  ludicrous  spectacle  of  a  man  wee})ing  flow- 
ing tears.  A  second  experiment  ui)(>n  its  taste  was  ecpialiy  satis- 
factory; T  can  easily  believe,  with  CapUiin  Stansbury,  tliat  a  man 
overboard  has  little  ehanee  against  asphyxiation ;  vox  J'aucibiis 
hivsit  wa.s  the  least  that  could  be  said  concerning  its  elVects  upon 
my  mitstieutors.  Thosi!  who  try  such  experiments  may  be  warn- 
e(l  that  a  jug  filled  at  the  fresh  spring  is  necessary  in  more  ways 
than  one.     The  hair  on  emersion  is  junvdered  liK'e  the  ])lastered 

•  AooortlinR  to  Mr.  T,  H.  Prnlo  (qtintoil  liy  Tniitnin  Rtnnsbun*,  Apjwndix  C\ 
"^foro  thnn  ^'i-jths  nf  thn  mnss  U  (h>iii|m.<c(1  of  ilic  lurvii'  and  cxuviu)  of  tlio  C/iirvno- 
inu*,  or  wiine  mwcioi  of  nmsijiifto,  jirobably  undcstribed." 


>       I 


Jflii 


330 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Ckap.  VII. 


I 


■1 


locks  of  the  knights  of  flamingo-plush  and  bell-hanging  shoulder- 
knots,  and  there  is  a  clammy  stickiness,  which  is  exceeding!}'  un- 
pleasant. Salt,  moreover,  may  be  scraped  from  the  skin — imag- 
mative  bathers  have  compared  themselves  to  Lot's  wife — and  the 
Ethiop,  now  prosaically  termed  "nigger,"  comes  out  after  a  bath 
bleached,  whitewashed,  and  with  changed  epidermis. 

Notwithstanding  the  fumet  from  the  kitchen  of  that  genui,<i  loci 
whom  I  daurna  name,  we  dined  with  excellent  appetite.  While 
the  mules  were  being  hitched  to,  I  found  an  opportunity  of  an- 
other survey  from  below  the  Black  Rock :  this  look-out  station 
is  sometimes  ascended  by  those  gifted  with  less  than  the  normal 
modicum  of  common  sense.  The  lands  immediately  about  the 
lake  arc  ilat,  rising  almost  imperceptibly  to  the  base  of  abrupt 
hills,  which  are  broken  in  places  by  soft  and  sandy  barriers,  irre- 
claimable for  agriculture,  but  here  and  there  fit  for  grazing;  where 
springs  exist,  they  burst  out  at  too  low  a  level  for  irrigation. 
The  meridional  range  of  the  Oquirrh,  at  whose  northern  point  we 
were  standing,  divides  the  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley  from  its  west- 
ern neighbor  Tooele  or  Tuilla,  which  iu  sound  curiously  resem- 
bles the  Arabic  Tawileh — the  Long  Valley.  It  runs  like  most 
of  these  formations  from  north  to  south:  it  is  divided  by  a  trans- 
verse ridge  declining  westward,  and  not  unaptly  called  Traverse 
Mountain,  from  Rush  Valley,  which  again  is  similarly  separated 
from  Cellar  Valle_>.  From*  the  point  where  we  stood,  the  only 
way  to  Tooi'le  settlement  is  round  the  north  point  of  West  Mount- 
ain, a  bold  headland,  rugged  with  rocks  and  trees.  Westward  of 
Tooele  Valley,  and  separated  by  a  sister  range  to  the  Oquirrh, 
lies  Spring  Valley,  so  called  because  it  boasts  a  sweet  fountain, 
and  south  of  this  "Skull  V^alley'' — an  ominous  name,  but  the  evil 
omen  was  to  the  bison. 

Bidding  a  long  farewell  to  that  inland  briny  sea,  which  npjiar- 
cntly  lias  no  business  there,  wc  turned  our  faces  eastward  as  the 
sun  was  dtjclining.  The  view  had  memorable  beauties.  From  the 
blue  and  ])urple  clouds,  gorgeously  edged  with  celestial  lire,  shot 
up  a  fan  of  penciled  and  colored  light,  extending  halfway  to  the 
zenith,  while  in  the  south  and  southeast  lightnings  played  among 
the  darker  mist-masses,  whicli  backed  the  golden  and  emerald 
bench-lands  of  the  farther  valley.  The  .splendid  sunset  gave  a 
reflex  of  its  loveliness  to  the  alkaline  and  artemisia  barrens  be- 
fore us.  Opposite,  i\\o.  Wasaeli.  viist  and  voluminous,  the  store- 
house of  storms,  and  of  the  hundred  streams  tliat  cool  the  thir.'^ty 
earth,  rose  in  stern  and  gloomy  grandeur,  which  even  i\w  last 
smile  of  day  failed  to  .'*often,  over  the  subject  plain.  Northward. 
to  a  considerabhi  distance,  the  lake-lands  lay  uninterrujiled  save 
bv  an  occasional  bench  and  a  distant  swell,  resembling  tiu;  upper 
convexity  of  a  thunder-cloud.  As  we  advaneecl,  the  city  became 
dimly  discernible  beyond  .Ionian,  biiilt  on  ground  gently  rising 
away  from  the  lake,  uml  strongly  nestling  under  its  protecting 


Chap.  VII. 


TRIP  TO  CAMP  FLOYD. 


881 


mountains.  A  little  to  its  northeast,  a  thin  white  vapor  like 
the  spray  of  a  spouting  whale,  showed  the  direction  ot  the  Hot 
Springs:  as  time  wore  on  it  rolled  awpy,  condensed  by  the  cool- 
ing air,  like  the  smoke  of  a  locomotive  before  the  evening  breeze. 
Then  the  prominent  features  of  the  city  came  into  view,  the  build- 
ings separated  themselves  from  their  neighbors  by  patches  and 
shades  of  several  green,  the  streets  opened  out  their  regular  rows 
and  formal  lines;  once  more  we  rolled  over  Jordan's  rickety 
bridge,  and  found  ourselves  again  in  the  Holy  City  of  the  Far 
West. 

The  ultimate  destination  of  the  Judiciary  whom  I  had  accom- 
panied was  Carson  Valley,  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  a  distance  of 
some  hundreds  of  miles  through  a  wild  country  where  "lifting  of 
hair"  IS  by  no  means  uncommon.  The  judge,  though  not  a  suck- 
mg  diplomat,  had  greenly  relied  upon  bona  verba  at  Washington 
for  transportation,  escort,  and  other  necessaries  which  would  be 
easily  procurable  at  Camp  Floyd.  It  was  soon  found  advisable 
to  apply  to  the  military  authorities  at  the  cantonment.  Tie 
coach,  as  I  have  said,  had  ceased  to  run  beyond  Great  Salt  Lr.ke 
City.  In  May,  1858,  a  contract  had  been  made  with  Major  Gef)rge 
Chorpenmng  to  transport  mails  and  passengers  —  the  fare  being 
S120— from  Utah  to  California,  he  receiving  $180,000.  This  last- 
ed till  September,  1859,  when  the  drivers,  complaining  that  the 
road-agents  charged  with  paying  them  for  eighteen  months  had 
expended  the  "rocks"  in  the  hells  of  San  Francisco,  notably 
evinced  their  race's  power  of  self-govern  men  t  by  seizing  and  sell- 
ing off  by  auction  wagons  and  similar  movable  i)roj)erty.  On  the 
20th  of  Afareh,  1800,  it  came  into  the  hands  of  the  proprietors  of 
the  Eastern  line,  Messrs.  llussell  and  Co.,  who  ran  a  mail-wagon 
first  to  California,  then  to  Camp  Floyd,  and  lastly,  on  the  Isfof 
June,  finding  their  expenditure  excessive,  ))acked  the  mails  on 
mules.*  Single  travelers  were  sometimes  thus  pushed  through, 
.starting  on  the  Wednesdays,  once  a  fortnight;  for  a  party  Uko 
ours  such  a  proceeding  would  have  been  impossible.  Conse- 
•lucntly,  the  judge  and  1  set  out  for  Camp  Vloyd  to  sec  what  could 
be  done  by  "  Uncle  Sam"  and  his  "eagles." 

Mr.rult)ert  — of  tlie  firm  of  (Jilbert,  Oerrish,  and  Co.,  general 
(Gentile)  merchants— olli'erod  us  seats  in  his  trotting  wagon,  drawn 
by  a  fine  tall  ]iair  of  iron-gray  mules,  that  cost  $500  \he  twain, 
and  were  clirisicned  Julia  an. I  Sally,  after,  1  believe,  the  fair  daugh- 
ters of  the  ollicer  who  had  lately  eommanded  tlic  district.  With 
a  fine  clear  day  and  a  bree^.e  which  veiled  us  with  dust-liangings 
—the  liighway  must  be  a  sea  of  mud  in  wet  weather — we  set  out 
along  tlie  county  road,  leading  iVum  the  .southeastern  angle  of  the 
Holy  City.  Oiir  route  lay  over  the  strip  of  alluvium  that  sepa- 
rates the  Wasach  Mountains  from  the  watt>rs  of  Jordan:  it  is  cut 
by  a  multitude  of  streamlets  rising  from  the  kanyons;  the.  prin- 

•  Tlipy  caiTV  CO  to  GO  lb«. ;  and  tlio  Hchedulo  time  to  Placcrvillo  U  xixtccn  diiys. 


,1: 


882 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VII. 


cipal  are  Mill  Creelc,  Big  Cotton-wood,  Little  Cotton-wood,  Dry 
Cotton- wood,  and  Willow  Creek.  The  names  are  translated  from 
the  Indians,  and  we  saw  from  the  road  traces  of  the  abongmes, 
who  were  sweeping  crickets  and  grass-seed  into  their  large  con- 
ical baskets— among  these  ragged  gleaners  we  looked  in  vain  for 
a  Euth.  Near  Big  Cotton-wood,  where  there  is  a  settlement  dis- 
tant seven  miles  from  the  city,  an  English  woman  came  across  the 
fields  and  complained  that  she  had  been  frightened  by  four  In- 
dian braves  who  had  been  riding  by  to  bring  m  a  stolen  horse. 
The  waters  of  the  kanyons  are  exceedingly  cool,  sweet,  and  clear, 
and  suggested  frequent  reference  to  a  superior  kind  of  tap  which 
had  been  stored  away  within  the  trap.  In  proportion  as  we  left 
the  city,  the  sterility  of  the  River  Valley  increased ;  cultivation 
was  unseen  except  upon  the  margins  of  the  streams,  and  the  look 
of  the  land  was  "  real  mean."  In  front  of  us  lay  the  denticulated 
bench  bounding  the  southern  end  of  the  valley. 

After  twenty,  miles  from  the  city  we  reached  a  ranch  en  rising 
ground,  near  the  water-gate  of  the  Jordan.  It  was  built  at  an 
expense  of  $17,000,  and  was  called  the  Utah  Brewery.  Despite, 
however,  the  plenty  of  hop  and  barley,  the  speculation  proved  a 
failure,  and  the  house  had  become  a  kind  of  mail-station.  Be- 
tween 'it  and  the  river  w..  ■ .:  a  number  of  little  rush-girt  "eyes"— 
round  pools,  some  hot,  others  cold— and  said  to  be  unfathomable; 
that  is  to  say,  from  twenty  to  thirty  fathoms  deep.  They  related 
that  a  dragoon,  slipping  with  his  charger  into  one  of  them,  found 
a  watery  grave,  where  a  drier  death  might  have  been  expected. 
At  the  ranch  we  rested  for  an  hour,  but  called  in  vain  for  food. 
From  the  Utah  Brewery,  which  is  about  halfway,  drivers  reckon 
twenty-two  miles  to  Camp  Floyd,  making  a  total  cf  forty -two  to 
forty-three  miles  between  the  head-quarters  of  the  Faint  and  the 
sinner,  and  we  therefore  looked  forward  to  a  "  banian  day." 

About  noon  wo  hitched  to  and  ])roceedod  to  ascend  Traverse 
Mountain,  a  ridge-like  spur  of  the  Wiisach,  running  east  and  west. 
It  separates  the  Valley  of  the  Northern  or  Great  Salt  Lake  from 
the  basin  of  the  Utah,  or  Sweetwater  Lake,  to  the  southward,  and 
is  broken  through  by  the  waters  of  Jordan.  The  young  river- 
called  Piya  Ogwaj),  or  the  liig  Water,  by  the  Shoshonees— hero 
rushes  in  a  foaming  shallow  stream,  that  cmi  barely  lloat  a  dug- 
out, over  a  rocky,  pebbly  bed,  in  the  sole  of  a  deep  but  short  kau- 
yon,  which  win<ts  its  way  through  tlie  cross  range.  Tl\e  descent 
13  about  100  feet  in  two  miles,  atler  which  the  course  serpentines, 
the  banks  fall,  and  the  current  becomes  gentle. 

As  we  toiled  up  tlie  Dug-way,  the  graded  incline  that  runs 
along  tlie  shoulder  of  the  mountain,  we  saw  a  line  back  view  of 
the  nai)py  Valley  through  an  atmosphere  clear  an  that  of  the 
English  littoral  before  rain.  Advancing  higher,  we  met,  face  to 
face,  an  ambulance  full  of  uniform  m  nmk  to  the  Holy  ('ity, drawn 
by  four  neat  mulc.«,  and  acc'>mj)anied  by  strikers— military  serv 


Chap.  VII. 


UTAH  LAKE. 


333 


ants.  We  drew  up,  tlie  judge  was  readily  recognized,  and  I  was 
introduced  to  Captains  Heth,  Clarke,  and  Gibson,  and  to  Lieuten- 
ant Robinson.  They  began  with  an  act  of  charity,  supplying  ham 
sandwiches  to  half-starved  men,  and  I  after  «rard  spent  pleasant 
evenings  with  them  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  became  Captain 
Heth's  guest  at  Camp  Floyd.  Their  kindness  and  hospitality 
lasted  to  the  end  of  my  stay.  After  the  usual  "  liquoring  up,'' 
they  pointed  to  Ash  Hollow,  the  depths  below,  where  the  Mor- 
mons had  intended  to  make  a  new  Thermopylae.  Promising  to 
meet  them  again,  we  then  shook  hands  and  resumed  our  road. 

The  steep  descent  on  the  counterslope  of  Traverse  Mountain 
disclosed  to  us  the  first  sight  of  Utah  Lake,  which  is  to  its  sister 
what  Carmel  is  to  Lebanon.  It  was  a  soft  and  sunny,  a  placid 
and  beautiful  landscape,  highly  refreshing  after  the  arid  lands  on 
the  other  side.  A  panorama  of  lake,  plain,  and  river  lay  before 
us.  On  the  east,  south,  and  west  were  rugged  walls  and  peaks  of 
mountain  and  hill ;  and  northward  a  broad  grassy  slope  rose  to 
the  divide  between  the  valleys  of  the  Fresh  and  of  the  Salt  Lake. 
From  afar  the  binding  of  plain  round  the  basin  appeared  so  nar- 
row that  the  mountains  seemed  to  dip  their  feet  into  the  quiet 
reservoir ;  and  beyond  the  southern  point  the  lone  peak  of  lofty 
Nebo  stood,  to  adopt  the  Koranic  comparison,  like  one  of  the  pins 
which  fasten  down  the  plains  of  earth.  A  nearer  approach  dis- 
covers a  broad  belt  of  meadow,  rich  alluvial  soil,  in  parts  marshy, 
and  in  others  arable,  wheat  and  root-crop  flourishing  in  the  bot- 
tom, and  bunch-grass  upon  the  acclivities.  The  breadth  is  great- 
er to  tlie  west  and  south  of  the  lake  than  in  other  parts.  It  is  cut 
by  many  a  poplar-fringed  stream  that  issues  from  the  tremendous 
gorges  around — the  American  Fork,  the  Timpanogos*  or  Provo 
River,  and  the  Spanish  Fork.  On  the  near  side,  beyond  the  wind- 
ing Jordan,  lay  little  Lchi,  whose  houses  were  half  hid  by  black 
trees ;  and  eastward  of  the  Utah  Water,  dimly  visible,  was  Provo 
City,  on  a  plain  watered  by  four  creeks.  Such  were  the  environs 
of  the  Sea  of  Tiberias. 

The  Utah  Lake,  another  Judean  analogue,  derives  its  supplies 
from  the  western  versant  of  the  Wasach.  It  is  in  shape  an  irreg- 
ular triangle,  the  southern  arm  forming  a  very  acute  angle.  The 
extreme  length  is  thirty  miles,  and  the  greatest  breadth  is  fifteen. 
It  owes  its  sweetness,  which,  however,  is  by  no  means  remarkable, 
to  its  northern  drainage,  tlie  Piya  Ogwap,  alias  Utah  Outlet,  alias 
Jordan  River.  Near  the  shores  the  water  soon  deepens  to  fifteen 
feet ;  the  bottom  is  said  to  bo  smooth,  uniform,  and  very  profound 
ill  places ;  but  probably  it  has  never  been  sounded.     The  bed, 

♦  Fnitn  Tlmjm,  a  ruck,  nnd  ogwahi\  rontrnrted  to  otji',  n  river,  in  the  Yuta  dialect. 
In  Kiij;lisli  niiiiis  jmlilistuul  ns  lute  ns  snven  ycnrj^  u(;o,  "  Tim])nno(;os"  is  npplicd  to 
tlie  Gmit  Salt  Lake!  /Voiv)  or  I'rovaux  is  the  name  of  a  Canadian  trai)])er  nnd 
trader,  who  in  past  times  defeated  with  eighty  men  a  thousand  Indians,  and  was 
i<illed  at  the  moment  of  victory.  The  Mormons  call  tho  City  Piovo,  ami  Gentiles 
prefer  as  u  "rilo"  Timpanw/os, 


t     ^M> 


I 


RaijJ 


(■."li  i' 


384 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VH. 


where  it  shows,  is  pebbly ;  a  white,  chalky  incrustation  covers  the 
shallower  bottom ;  shells,  especially  the  fresh-water  clam,  are  nu- 
merous upon  the  watery  margin;  the  flaggy  "Deseret  weed"  in 
the  tulares  is  ten  feet  high,*  and  thicket  is  dense  in  places  where 
rock  does  not  occupy  the  soil.  The  western  side  is  arid  for  want 
of  influents;  there  is*  a  "lone  tree,"  a  solitary  cotton-wood,  con- 
spicuous amid  the  grazing-ground  of  bunch -grass,  sage,  and  grease- 
wood,  and  the  only  inhabitants,  excepting  a  single  ranch— Evan's 
— are,  apparently,  the  Phrynosoma  and  the  lizard,  the  raven  and 
the  jackass-rabbit.  The  Utah  Lake  freezes  in  December,  Janu- 
ary, and  February.  At  these  months  the  Jordan  rolls  down  floes 
of  ice,  but  it  is  seldom  to  be  traversed  on  foot.  In  the  flood  sea- 
son it  rises  two,  and  the  wind  tide  extends  to  about  three  feet.  It 
is  still  full  of  fish,  which  in  former  times  were  carried  oif  in  bar- 
rels. The  white  trout  weigh  thirty  pounds.  There  are  many 
kinds  of  mountain  trout  averaging  three  pounds,  while  salmon 
trout,  suckers,  and  mudfish  are  uncommonly  large  and  plentiful : 
water-snakes  and  "  horsehair  fish"  are  also  found. 

After  descending  the  steep  incline  we  forded  the  Jordan,  at  that 
point  100  feet  broad,  and  deep  to  the  wagon-hubs.  The  current 
was  not  too  swift  to  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds.  The  water 
was  of  sulphary  color,  the  effect  of  chalk,  and  the  taste  was  brack- 
ish, but  not  unpleasant;  cattle  are  said  to  like  it.  The  fording 
was  followed  by  a  long  ascent,  the  divide  between  Utah  Valley 
and  its  western  neighbor  Cedar  Valley.  About  half  way  between 
the  Brewery  and  the  Camp  is  a  station,  held  by  a  Shropshire  Mor- 
mon, whose  only  name,  as  for  as  I  could  discover,  was  Joe  Dug- 
out, so  called,  like  the  Watertons  de  Waterton,  from  the  style  of 
his  habitation.  He  had  married  a  young  woman,  who  deterred 
him  from  giving  her  a  sister — every  Oriental  language  has  a  word 
to  express  what  in  P]nglish,  which  lacks  the  thing,  is  rudely  trans- 
lated "a  rival  wife" — by  threatening  to  have  his  ears  cut  off  by 
the  "horflicers."  Joe,  however,  seemed  quite  resigned  to  the 
pains  and  penalties  of  monogamy,  and,  what  was  more  to  our 
purpose,  had  a  good  brew  of  porter  and  Lager-bier. 

Having  passed  on  the  way  a  road  that  branches  off  to  the  old 
cam[>,  wliich  was  deserted  for  want  of  water,  we  sighted  from  afar 
the  new  cantonment.  It  lies  in  a  circular  basin,  surrounded  by 
irregular  hills  of  various  height,  still  wooded  with  black  eodar, 
where  not  easily  felled,  and  clustering  U})on  the  banks  of  Cedar 
Creek,  a  rivulet  which  jiresently  sinks  m  a  black  ])uddly  nuul. 
For  a  more  thoroughly  detestable  s^iotoue  must  repair  to  (iharra, 
or  some  similar  ]>urgatorial  place  in  Lower  Sindh.  The  winter 
is  long  and  rigorous,  the  summer  lidt  and  uncomfortable,  the  alka- 
line water  curdles  soap,  and  the  dust-storms  remind  one  of  the 

♦  Tiilnw  Is  a  niiirsli  of  linlrusli  (Srir/mn  l,inislris),\\hUh  is  found  cxtoiidinK  ovov 
immense^  tracts  of  livor  valli'v  in  WcsIitu  America.  "Tooly"  wuter,  as  it  is  i)ro- 
nounceil,  is  llmt  which  is  lliivorcJ  or  luiutcd  liy  it. 


Chap,  VII. 


CAMP  FLOYD. 


335 


Punjaub.  I  lost  no  time  in  suggesting  to  my  compagnm  de  voy- 
age, Lieutenant  Dana,  as  a  return  for  his  kindness  in  supDlvin? 
me  with  a  "Bayonet  Exercise,"  and  other  papers,  our  old  cam- 
paigning habit  of  hanging  wet  canvas  before  every  adit  and  re- 
ceived the  well-merited  thanks  of  Madam.  The  hardest  part  of 
these  hardships  is  that  they  are  wholly  purposeless.  Every  adobe 
brick  in  the  place  has  been  estimated  to  have  cost  a  cent  as  at 
Aden  each  cut  stone  was  counted  a  rupee ;  and  the  purchase  of 
lumber  has  enriched  the  enemy.  In  1858  the  Peace  Commis- 
sioners sent  by  the  supreme  government  conceded  to  the  Mor- 
mons a  point  which  saved  the  Saints,  The  army  was  not  to  be 
"located"  within  forty  miles  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City;  thus  the 
pretty  sites  about  Utah  Lake  were  banned  to  them,  and  the  Mor- 
mons, It  IS  said,  "jockeyed"  them  out  of  the  rich  and  fertile  Cache 
V  alley,  eighty  miles  north  of  the  head-quarters. 

A  broken  wall  surrounds  this  horrid  hole.  Julia  and  Sally 
carried  us  in  with  unflagging  vigor.  We  passed  throusjh  Fair- 
field, less  euphoniously  termed  Frogtown,  the  bazar  of  die  can- 
tonment on  the  other  side  of  the  creek.  During  the  days  when 
Gamp  Lloyd  contained  its  full  complement  of  camp  followers— 
5000  souls— now  reduced  to  100  or  200  men,  it  must  have  been 
a  delectable  spot,  teeming  with  gamblers  and  blacklegs,  grog- 
house-keepers  and  prostitutes :  the  revolver  and  the  bowie-knife 
had  nightly  work  to  do  there,  and  the  moral  Saints  were  fond  of 
likening  Frogtown  to  certain  Cities  of  the  Plains.  Of  late  years 
it  has  become  more  respectable,  and  now  it  contains  some  good 
stores. 

We  removed  from  the  wagon  the  mail-bags  containing  letters 
for  the  camp,  and  made  ourselves  at  home  with  the  hospitable 
Gubert  On  the  next  day,  after  "morning  glory"  and  breakfast, 
we  called  upon  the  officer  commanding  the  department.  Colonel 
P.  bt.  Or,  Cooke,  of  the  2d  Dragoons,  and  upon  the  commandant 
of  the  cantonment.  Lieutenant  Colonel  C,  F,  Smith,  They  intro- 
duced us  to  the  greater  part  of  the  officers,  and,  though  livino-  in 
camp  fashion,  did  not  fail  to  take  in  the  strangers  after  the°an- 
cient,  not  the  modern,  acceptation  of  the  term.  It  is  a  sensible 
pleasure,  which  every  military  man  has  remarked,  to  exchange 
the  common  run  of  civilian  for  soldier  society  in  the  United 
States.  The  reveille  in  the  morning  speaks  of  discipline;  the 
guard-mounting  has  a  wholesome  military  sound ;  there  is  a  habit 
of'teution  and  of  saluting  wis ioli  suggests  some  subordination; 
the  orderlies  say  "  Sir,"  not  Sirrco  nor  Sirree-bob,  The  stiffness 
and  ungeniality  of  professionals,  who  are  all  running  a  race  for 
wealth  or  fame,  give  way  in  a  service  of  seniority,  and  where  men 
become  brothers,  to  the  frankness  which  belongs  to  the  trade  of 
arms.  The  Kshatriya,  or  fighting  caste,  in  the  States  is  distinctlv 
marked.  The  officers,  both  of  the  navy  and  the  army,  are,  for 
the  most  part,  Southcrncns,  and  arc  separated  by  their  position 


HI 


;,!  ^  >;i    'il 


336 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VH. 


from  general  society.  The  civilian,  as  was  the  case  in  England 
twenty  years  ago,  dislikes  the  uniform.  His  prmcipal  boasts  are, 
that  he  pays  his  fighting  servants  well,  and  that  Tie-a  mih  la- 
man-is  ifar  superio?  to  the  regular.  A  company  of  Cadets,  called 
the  Chicago  Zouaves,  during  the  summer  of  18b0,  made  a  sensa- 
tion throughout  the  land.  Tb  ■  newspaper  writers  spoke  of  them 
n  terms  ffr  higher  than  have  bcou  !  ..v..hed  upon  the  flower  o 
the  French  army;  even  the  military  professionals  were  obhged 
to  ioin  in  the  cry.  As  a  republican,  the  citizen  looks  upon  a  sol- 
dier as  a  drone.  "  I  hate  those  cormorants,"  said  to  me  an  Amer- 
ican diplomat,  who,  par  parenlh^e  had  made  a  fortune  by  the  law, 
as  he  entered  a  Viennese  cafd  Varte  della  gnerra  presto  s  xmpam 
is  his  motto,  and  he  evinces  his  love  of  the  civilian  ;  Vment  by 
.riving  away  a  considerable  percentage  of  coiumissions  in  the  arinv 
to  those  whose  political  influence  enables  them  to  dispense  with 
the  preparation  of  West  Point.  •      ^i       i         i 

I  am  here  tempted  to  a  few  words  concerning  the  cheap  de- 
fense and  the  chief  pride  of  the  United  States,  vi^.,  her  irregular 
army.  The  opposite  table  shows  the  forces  of  the  i^ihtva  to  be 
three  millio:y.s,  while  the  regular  army  does  not  number  19  000. 
The  institution  is,  therefore,  a  kind  of  nublic,  a  writing,  speaking, 
voting  body,  which  makes  itself  heard  and  fclt,  while  the  exist- 
ence Sf  the  regulars  is  almost  ignored.  To  hint  augh  against  the 
militia  in  the  United  States  is  sure  seriously  to  rile  up  your 
civil  audience,  and  Elijah  Pograni  will  perhaps  let  you  know  hat 
vou  can  not  know  what  you  are  talking  about.  The  outspoken 
Britisher,  despite  his  title  and  his  rank  as  a  general  ofliccr  had  a 
"sQueak"  for  his  commission  when,  in  the  beginning  of  the  vol- 
unteer mania,  he  spoke  of  the  new  levies  as  a  useless  body  of  men: 
uton  the  same  ^principle  in  the  United  States.  Thus  also  the 
liberal  candidate  declares  to  his  electors  Ins  "firm  belief  that  with 
all  our  enormous  expenditure,  the  country  had  not  felt  itsclt  se- 
cure and  straightway  a  noble  arm  of  defense,  spnngmg  unbought 
from  the  patriotism  of  the  people,  had  crept  into  existence,  torm- 
ina f.  better  shield  for  our  national  liberties  than  all  that  we  had 
been  able  to  buy  with  our  mounds  of  gold.'  (Cheers.)  The  ci- 
vilian in  tho  United  States  boasts  of  his  military  institutions,  his 
West  Point  and  his  regular  army,  and  never  tails  to  inform  a 
stranger  that  it  is  better  paid  than  any  force  in  Eurone.  On  the 
other  hand,  ho  prides  himself  upon,  as  he  is  probably  idcutihed 

with,  the  militia.  .       ,         ,  f    -^  ■     c 

That  writing,  speaking,  and  voting  have  borm^  fruit  in  favor 
of  the  militia,  may  l)e  read  in  the  history  of  the  .uncrico-Mexican 
War  The  fame  of  the  irregulars  penetrated  to  Calcutta  and  Un- 
na  •  it  was  stopped  onl  v  by  the  Orient  sun.  But  who  ever  heard  of 
the  regulars?  The  "  newspaper  heroes"  were  almost  all  nu  ituunen, 
ran<n<rs,  and  other  guerrillas:  "keening  an  editor  in  pay  is  now 
a  Btouding  sarcasm.     The  sages  of  the  Kevolution  imtialed  a  yeo- 


CuAP.  vir. 


UNITED  STATES  MILITIA. 


337 


MILITIA  FORCE  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

General  Abstract  of  the  Militia  Force  of  the  United  States,  according  to  the  latest  Tie 

turns  received  at  the  Office  of  the  Adjutant  General. 


states  and  Territories. 


iMaiiia 

NewII.inijisIiire. 
Mossacliusetts... 

Vermont 

Rhode  Island.... 

Connecticut 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Virginia 

North  Carolina... 
South  Carolina... 

Georgia 

Florida 

Alabama 

Louisiana 

Mississippi 

Tennessee 

Kentucky 

Ohio '... 

Michigan 

Indiana 

Illinois 

Wisconsin 

Iowa 

Missouri 

Arkansas 


For 
tho 
Year 


1850 

18.54 

1859 

1843 

18 

1858 

185G 

1852 

1858 

1827 

1838 

1858 

184, 

185C 

1850 

1845 

1851 

18.59 

1838 

1840 

1852 

1858 

18.54 

1832 

18,55 


£g    General     Field   L„„„. 
S|      Hlair     omcers,i';™P»"y, 
S§  'OfflcerB.      etc.       ""'O"- 


13 
11 
10 
12 

2 

8 
93 


52 
202 
47 
51 
22 
9 


Total     I  N'on-oomniig. 
eoniniia-  .sionedofflcers, 

eioned         Mukicians, 
Olficers.    Artificers,  and 
I      Private?. 


30 
119 
111 
224 
100 
82 
99  1,531 


8 
G8 


1855 


1853 
1859 

Texas 1847 

California 1857 

Minnesota jl859 

Oregon 

Washington  Territory 
Nebraska  Territory.... 

Kansas  Territory 

Territory  of  Utah '1853 

Territory  of  N'.  Mexicoj 
District  of  Columbia.. '  1852 


28 
20 1 
39 1 

32 1 

lo; 

15, 
25 
43! 


133 
1.35 

91 

14 
142 
129 

70 

79 
145  1 


71 
544 


30 
31 


10 
15 
18 


123 
110 


057 
535 
024 
95 
775 
642 
850 
392 
,105 


230 
89 
353 
801 
20 
199 
5,49 


304 
1,703 


340 

1,227 

.521 

1,088 
150 
293 

7,388 


147 

500 


8i  215 


17 

39 

45 

120 


4 

179 

248 

11 


3,449 
1,909 
4,290 

508 
1,883 
2,105 

348 
2,044 
3,51 


447 
2,397 


2,358 
2,154 


904 

07 
911 
040 
175 


4,207 
2,  .599 
5,050 

020 
2,832 
2,792 

825 
3,007 
4,870 


73,248 

32,311 

157,347 

22,827 

10,555 

51,312 

329,847 


Aggregate. 


8,782 

44,40 


2,858 
2,801 


10; 


48 
28 


18.^ 


1,142 

88 

1,139 

1,248 

330 


75,181 
33,473 
73,049 
11,. 502 
73,830 
88,  ,532 
35,259 
07,045 
84,109 


94,230 
51,052 


50,179 

117,959 
40,011 

18,518 
207,400 


Grand  aggregate. 


285j   2,630 
220'    7,97; 


73,552 
33,538 
157,808 
23,915 
10,711 
51,005 
337,235 
81,984 
350,000 
9,229 
40,804 
150,000 
79,448 
30,072 
78,099 
12,122 
70,002 
91,324 
30,084 
71,252 
88,979 
279,809 
97,094 
53,913 
267,420 
61,321 

118,047 
47,750 
19,700 

207,730 
23,972 


2,821 
8,201 


-.15  2,374  9,884  38,087  51,400  1,870,342  3.070.9871 


manry  second  to  none  in  tlic  world :  tlicy  bad,  however,  among 
them  crowds  of  frontiersmen  accustomed  to  deal  with  the  bear 
and  the  Indian,  not  with  the  unteloiie  and  the  deer.  The  Texan 
Rangers  in  hiter  times  were  i  iirst-rate  body  of  men  for  irregular 
purposes,  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  militia,  yet  always  put 
lorward  as  a  proof  how  superior  to  the  "sweepings  of  cities,'*^ as 
the  regular  army  was  once  called  in  the  Senate,  are  the  irregulars, 
who  "never  lire  a  random  shot,  never  draw  trigger  till  their  aim 
IS  sure,"  and  are  "here  t  >-night  and  to-morrow  are  fifty  miles  off." 
But  the  true  modern  militia  is  pronounced  by  the  best  authorities 


>    1 1 


iri. 


338 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VH. 


—indeed,  by  all  who  hold  it  no  economy  to  be  ill  served,  for  any 
but  purely  defensive  purposes,  a  humbug,  which  costs  m  cam- 
paicrns  more  blood  and  gold— neglect  of  business  is  perhaps  the 
chief  item  of  the  expenditure— than  a  standing  army  would.  As 
a  "Garde  Nationalc"  it  is  quite  efficient.  When  called  out  for 
distant  service,  as  in  the  Mexican  War,  cvcvy  pchn  fault  becomes 
apparent.  Personally  the  men  suffer  severely  from  unaccustomed 
hardship  and  exposure;  in  dangerous  climates  they  die  like  sheep; 
half  are  in  hospital,  and  the  other  half  must  nurse  them:  Nature 
soon  becomes  stronger  than  martial  law;  under  the  fatigue  of 
the  march  they  will  throw  away  their  rations  and  military  nec- 
essaries rather  than  take  the  trouble  to  carry  them:  improvident 
and  wasteful,  their  convoys  are  timid  and  unmanageable.  Men- 
tally they  are  in  many  cases  men  ignoring  the  common  restraints 
of  society  profoundly  impressed  with  insubordination,  which  dis- 
plays equality,  which  has  to  learn  all  the  wholesome  duty  of  obe- 
dience and  which  begins  with  as  much  respect  for  disciplme  as 
for  the  campaigns  of  Frederick  the  Great.  If  inclined  to  retire, 
they  can  stay  at  homo  and  obtain  double  or  treble  the  wages: 
not  a  few  are  driven  to  service  by  that  enthusiasm  which,  as  Sir 
Charles  Napier  well  remarked,  readily  makes  men  run  away. 
Their  various  defects  make  organization  painfully  slow.    In  camp 

«  ■•  '.I         T  ' »i.t».^i-«     4-j-.*>.-«>rt4-     i-vfo/i+i  nr\     nr«l- 


will  sit  down  to  a  quiet  euchre  after  planting  their  bayonets  in  the 
ground,  and  to  all  attempts  at  dislodging  them  the  reply  w-iU  be, 

"  You  go  to ,  Cap. !     I'm  as  good  a  man  as  you.      In  the 

field  like  all  raw  levies,  they  arc  apt  to  be  alarmed  by  any  thing 
unaccustomed,  as  the  sound  of  musketry  from  the  rear,  or  a  threat- 
ened flank  attack :  they  can  not  reserve  their  fire ;  they  aim  wild- 
h  to  the  peril  of  friend  and  foe,  and  they  have  been  accused  of 
unmilitarv  cruelties,  such  as  scalping  and  flaying  men,  shooting 
and  killiiig  squaws  and  children.  And  they  never  fail,  after  the 
ftishion  of'^such  men,  to  claim  that  they  have  done  all  the  fight- 


ing 


liuch  is,  T  believe,  the  United  States  militia  at.  the  beginning  of 
a  campaifm.  After  a  reasonable  time,  say  a  year,  which  kills  ^If 
the  weak  and  sickly,  and  rubs  out  the  brawler  and  the  mutineer; 
when  men  have  learned  to  distinguish  the  di^ercnce  between  the 
often  Dutch  courage  of  a  bowie-knife  squabble  and  the  moral  for- 
titude that  stands  firm  in  presence  of  famine  or  a  night  attack, 
then  they  become  regulars.  The  American— by  which  I  under- 
stand a  man  whose  father  is  born  in  the  United  States— is  a  first- 
rate  soldier,  distinguished  by  his  superior  intclligcneo  from  his 
compeers  in  other  lands;  but  he  rarely  takes  to  soldiering.  There 
arc  not  more  tliaii  five  of  these  men  per  company,  the  rest  being 

♦  These  remarks  were  penned  in  1800;  I  sec  no  reason  to  alter  them  in  18GI. 


Ciup.  VII. 


HATRED  AND  MUEDER. 


339 


all  Germans  and  Irishmen.  The  percentage  in  the  navv  is  ereat- 
er,  yet  it  is  still  inconsiderable.  The  Mexican  War  as  Historv 
writes  It,  IS  the  triumph  of  the  militia,  whom  old  ''Eough  and 
Ecady  led  to  conquest  as  to  a  "manifest  destiny."*  On  the  oth 
cr  hand  the  old  and  distinguished  officer  who  succeeded  General 
lay  lor  has  occasionally,  it  is  said,  given  utterance  to  opinions  con- 
cerning the  irregulars  which  contrast  strongly  with  those  general- 
ly attributed  to  him.  &        "^ 

At  Camp  Floyd  I  found  feeling  running  high  against  the  Mor- 
mons. "They  hate  us,  and  we  hate  them,"  said  an  intelligent 
officer;  consequently,  every  statement  here,  as  in  the  city,  must 
be  received  with  many  grains  of  salt.  At  Camp  Floyd  one  hears 
the  worst  version  of  every  fact,  which,  as  usual  hereabouts,  has  its 
many  distinct  facets.  These  anti-Mormons  declare  that  ten  mur- 
ders per  annum  during  the  last  twelve  years  have  been  commit- 

fi  Q?^^f  P"""''^-!^"'* '?  ^'^'^  ^^°"'  ^^^e^^^^s  New  York  averages 
lb-66.     ihey_  attribute  the  phenomenon  to  the  impossibility  of 
obtauung  testimony,  and  the  undue  whitewashing  action  of  iuries 
which  the  Mormons  declare  to  bo  "punctual  and  hard-working  in 
sustaimncr  the  dignity  of  the  law,"  and  praise  for  their  "  unparal- 
leled habits  of  industry  and  sobriety,  order,  and  respect  to  just 
rights.      Whatever  objection  I  made  was  always  answ-cred  by  the 
deception  of  appearances,  and  the  assertion  that  whenever  a  stran- 
ger enters  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  one  or  two  plausible  Mormons 
are  told  off  to  amuse  and  hoodwink  him.    Similarly  the  Mormons 
charge  the  Christians  with  violent  injustice.     On  a  late  occasion 
the  mayor  of  Springvillc,  Mr.  H.  F.  Macdonald,  and  the  bishop 
were  seized  simply  because  they  were  Church  dignitaries,  on  the 
occasion  of  a  murder,  and  the  former,  after  durance  vile  of  months 
at  Camp  Floyd,  made  his  escape  and  walks  about  a  free  man 
swearing  that  he  will  not  again  be  taken  alive.    In  1853,  Captain 
J.  \V .  Gunnison  and  seven  of  his  party  were  murdered  near  Nicol- 
let on  bcvier  Eiver,  twenty-five  miles  south  of  Nephi  City     The 
anti-Mormons  declare  that  the  deed  was  done  under  high  counsel 
by  "white  Indians,"  to  prevent  the  exploration  of  a  route  to  Cali- 
lornia,  and  the  disclosures  which  were  likely  to  be  made.    The 
Mormons  point  to  their  kind  treatment  of  the  previous  expedition 
upon  which  the  lamented  officer  was  engaged,  to  the  friendliness 
oi  his  book,  to  the  circumstance  that  an  Indian  war  was  then  rag- 
ing, and  that  during  the  attack  an  equal  number  of  Yuta  Indians 
were  killed.    M.  Remy  distinctly  refers  the  murder  to  the  Pahvant 
Indians,  some  of  whom  had  been  recently  shot  by  emigrants  to 
California.f    The  horrible  "  Mountain  Meadow  Massacre":t  was, 

!  ^"'1  it  "  i'l  I'c  rcmpmbcrcd,  the  Mexicans  were  not  Austrians  or  Russians. 

T  See  Iransliitioii,  vol.  i.,  ji.  4G3. 

t  The  followinK  Is  the  account  of  that  affiiir,  offlciallv  given,  of  course,  by  nnti- 
Mormons:  On  thi>  4th  or  Hth  of  Sci)tenibcr,  18r,7,  a  large  emigrant  train  from  Ar- 
kansas iin,ce(H  ing  to  California  with  horses,  mules,  and  ox-wagons,  conveying  stores 
ot  clothing  and  valuabks,  was  suddenly  attacked  near  a  spring  at  the  west  end  of 


f   ■       ;  i  i 

1  ■  ;•;•!!    ■ 


I  i  "  <  H 
:  iH    ■ 

"'    '  '   ■ 

I      'I'll 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VII. 


J 

according  to  tlie  anti-Mormons,  committed  by  the  Saints  to  re- 
venge the  death  of  an  esteemed  apostle— Parley  1 . 1  ratt— who, 
in  tiie  spring  of  1857,  when  travehng  through  Arkansas  was 
knived  by  one  Hector  M'Lean,  whose  wife  he  had  converted  and 
taken  unto  himself.  The  Mormons  deny  that  the  massacre  was 
committed  by  their  number,  and  ask  the  Gcntdes  why,  if  such  be 
the  case,  the  murderers  arc  not  brought  to  justice  I  They  look 
unon  Mr.  P.  P.  Pratt's  proceeding— even  in  iU  Islam,  the  women 
of  the  infidels  arc,  like  their  property,  /mfo/,  or  lawful  to  those  who 
win  them— as  perfectly  j  ustitiable.*    In  1^  ebruary,  18u9,  occurred 

Mnnntain  Meadow  Vnllov.  The  Indians,  directed  by  white  men,  cut  oflf  fVom  water 
£  trivc  eS  "^^^^^^  f""ifi-'  tlK-n,selvcs  behind  the  vehicle.,  which  they  filled  with 
earth  and  killed  and  wounded  several.  When  the  attacked  party,  distressed  by 
tliirst  and  a  pallins?  fire,  showed  symptoms  of  surrender  several  Mormons  among 
whom  the  leaders,  John  D.  Lcc  and  Elder  Isaac  C.  llaight,  arc  particularly  men- 
tioned,  approached  them  with  a  white  flap,  and  by  soft  words  persuaded  them  that  if 
they  would  pivc  up  their  weapons  they  should  be  sa  ely  forwarded  to  Panther  Creek 
and  Cedar  Citv.  The  emigrants  unwisely  disarmed  themselves,  and  flocked  toward 
the  sin-ine  The  work  of  murd«r  and  robbery  bepim  near  a  pateli  ot  scrub-oak  brush, 
about  one  mile  and  a  half  fn.m  water.  Between  115  and  IL'O  adults  were  slain 
Three  emerRcd  from  the  valley;  of  these,  two  were  soon  overtaken  and  killed  and 
the  third  was  slaughfred  at  Muddy  Creek,  distant  about  fifty  miles.  One  ol  the 
Mormons  — the  name  has  been  variously  piven  — is  nccused  of  a  truly  dctcstahlo 
deed  •  a  pirl,  sixteen  yeaw  old,  kmdt  to  him,  implorinp  mercy ;  he  led  her  awny  into 
the  thicket-and  thou  cut  her  throat.  Seventeen  children,  aged  from  two  nionths 
to  seven  years,  were  taken  from  the  Indians  by  the  whites,  and  were  distributed 
amonc  the  several  Mormoa  families  in  Cedar  City,  Fort  Harmony,  Santii  Clara  etc. 
Of  these  sixteen  were  recovered,  and  the  seventeenth  was  lound  iii  the  April  of  lh,.o. 
Mr  Jacob  Forney,  the  late  Superintendent  of  lu.lian  Affairs  conducted  the  investi- 
gatioii  on  the  part  of  tlie  federal  government;  he  reported  that  white  men  joined  in 
tlie  murder  and  the  robbery.  The  Mormons  of  course  deny,  ,u  Mo,  compliciiy  with 
the  Indians,  and  remark  that  many  trains— for  instance,  to  ipiote  no  others,  the  em- 
igrants at  Sublette's  Cut-ofl',  Oregon,  in  August,  1858— have  similarly  sullered  and 
that  they  can  not  l)c  responsible  for  the  misfortunes  which  men  who  insult  and  lU- 
tre.it  the  natives  bring  upon  themselves 

*  The  foUowing  is  an  extract  from  the  "Millennial  Star,  July  2..tli,  18,.,.  llio 
article  is  headed  "More  of  the  Assassination:"  "We  i.nblish  the  folh.wiiig  extriict 
from  a  letter  written  by  two  gentlemen  to  the  editor  of  a  New  ^  ork  jiaper.  I  he  let- 
ter was  dated  FlinUCherokeo  Nation,  Arkansas,  May  I7tli,  18,-,7,  and  sa.s  that  after 
Elder  Pratt  was  arrested  in  the  Indian  country,  he  was  'placed  under  a  streng 
cuurd  and  bv  a  military  escort  conve\ed  in  chains  to  the  Sn)ireme  Cnrt,  Van  liu. 
ren  Arkansoi'.  T'ho  case  U'iug  i.romptlv  investigated,  and  there  being  no  .videi.eo 
npo'n  vhich  a  bill  <>f  indictment  couhl  Ik;  found,  he  was  hberated  on  t.ie  \Mh  iiistiiiir. 
Hrotlrr  I'riitt,  being  without  anus,  and  without  friends  t(.  jirofct  hiiii,  and  knowuig 
that  M'Lean  was  thirsting  for  his  blood,  and  that  he  had  the  aid  of  a  mass  ot  ilio 
corrui.t,  money-bought  I'itiw.'iis  of  Van  IJiiren,  endeavored  to  male  his  e>*cape  on 
liorselmck  unmolested  ;  but  every  road  and  j.assway  iK'ing  nu.ler  strict  watch,  i.e  lul 
ni  t  succeed  in  getting  far  till  his  path  was  diseoveroil.  M'Lean  and  half  a  dozen 
other  arme.l  fiends  j.ursued  him  ;  and  Brother  I'ratt  being  totally  nnarmeil.  tlicy  sue- 
ceeded  in  killing  him  without  being  hurt.  Two  of  the  parly  in  ad.auce  mtereeptod 
his  road,  and  b.ought  him  to  a  halt,  while  M'l.ean  and  the  others  came  up  m  thn 
rear.  M'Lean  discharged  a  (dx-shooter  at  him,  but  the  balls  took  no  efl'eet :  i-nnio 
passcil  through  liis  clothes,  others  lodge.l  in  his  saddle.  The  parties  now  being  in 
Immedittto  contact.  M'Lean  utabbcd  him  (Ix.th  »M-ing  on  horseback)  with  a  liuiivy 
bowie-knife  twice  un.ler  the  left  arm.  IJrother  I'ratt  .Iroi.iwd  Irom  his  horse,  niul 
M'Lean  disin.mnte.l,  and  prols-.l  the  fatal  wounds  still  deeper;  he  then  got  a  Der- 
ringer from  one  of  his  aids,  and,  as  »i other  I'ratt  lay  dying  unon  his  back,  nhot  Iiun 
ill  the  uptHsr  part  of  the  breast,  dropping  the  pist.d  by  the  side  of  the  victim.  'Ilie 
f^„j.-jn  {j,y,i  jsiuiiuted  Lis  burse  oud  {I'J'J.     Thin  occurred  within  a  low  moiiu  ot  llio 


Chap.  Vn. 


SERGEANT  PIKE.— MR.  HENNEFER. 


841 


sundry  disturbances  between  the  soldiers  and  citizens  at  Rusb  Val- 
ley, tbirty-five  rniles  west  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  in  which  Mr 
Howard  Spencer,  nephew  to  Mr.  Daniel  Spencer,  a  squatter,  while 
being  removed  from  a  government  reservation  by  First  Sergeant 
Ealph  Pike  of  the  10th  Infantry,  raised  a  pitchfork,  and  received 
in  return  a  broken  head.  Shortly  afterward  the  sergeant,  having 
been  sununoned  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  was  met  in  Main  Street 
and  shot  down  before  all  present.  The  anti-Mormons,  of  course 
declare  the  deed  to  have  been  done  by  Mr.  Spencer,  and  hold  it' 
under  the  circumstances— execution  of  duty  and  summons  of  jus- 
tice—an  unpordonable  outrage ;  and  tlie  officers  assert  that  they 
could  hardly  prevent  their  men  arming  and  personally  revenging 
the  foul  murder  of  a  comrade,  who  was  loved  as  an  excellent  sol- 
dier and  an  honest  man.*  The  Mormons  assert  that  tbe  "  shoot- 
ing" was  done  by  an  unknown  hand ;  that  the  sergeant  had  used 
unnecessary  violence  against  a  youth,  who,  single-handed  and  sur- 
rounded by  soldiers,  had  raised  a  pitchfork  to  defend  his  head, 
and  that  the  provocation  thus  received  converted  the  case  from 
murder  to  one  of  justifiable  homicide.  In  the  month  of  June  be- 
fore my  arrival,  a  Lieutenant  Saunders  and  Assistant  Surgeon 
Covey  had  tied  to  a  cart's  tail  and  severely  flogged  Mr.  Ilennefer 
a  Mormon.  Tlie  opposition  party  assert  that  they  recognized  iri 
him  the  man  who  two  years  before  had  acted  as  a  spy  upon  them 
when  sitting  in  Messrs.  Livingston's  store,  and,  when  ordered  to 
"make  tracks,"  had  returned  with  half  a  dozen  others,  and  had 
shot  Dr.  Covey  in  the  breast.     The  Mormons  represent  Mr.  Ilcn- 

rcsidcnco  of  a  fnrmor  by  tlio  name  of  Wire.  Two  gentlemen,  LcinR  nt  the  house  at 
llic  tijne,  8UW  tlie  wliolo  atraii-,  uiid  luivc  imulo  ontli  to  what  they  witnessed  licforo  a 
'.oroncr's  jury.  Unithcr  I'liitt  Kiiivived  tlio  work  of  this  nssiissin  two  hoiirw  mid  a 
half,  and  was  enabled  to  tel!  those  wlio  enme  to  his  assistance  who  he  was,  that  ho 
lind  l)eeii  murdered  l)y  ii  liend  for  doiuK  his  duty,  and  gave  fall  instructions  as  to 
what  eourso  siiould  be  pursued  in  interring  his  body,  and  tiie  disposition  of  tlic  means 
nnd  proiicrty  eoniieeted  with  iiis  person.  H's  instrudiona  were  fully  attended  to  by 
Elder  lli^Kiiison^  and  Mrs.  M'Lean,  who  veaehed  the  phieo  of  his  nssiissination  tho 
Kiuue  eveninj,'.  Those  who  saw  his  last  moments  state  that  Brother  I'rntt  died  with- 
(iiit  ii  nuirmur  or  u  uroun,  and  apparently  without  ii  pain,  perfectly  resigned  to  tho 
will  of  Heaven.  Hrother  I'ratt  told  KIder  UiKpi'e'on,  the  morninK  nfter  his  arrest, 
that  his  enemies  would  kill  him,  an.l  reipu-sted  KIder  IligKinson  to  go  th^.iuRh  with 
this  spring's  emi|,'raiion  to  Tiah,  and  carry  the  news  of  his  death  to  the  Church  and 
his  family.  This  KIder  llii'f'inst)H  will  do,  the  Lord  ladjiinR.  After  perpetrating 
this  heayen-dariuK  deeil,  Mi-eau  retiuMied  to  Van  Unren  and  made  it  known.  Aft- 
er rimaiuinn  in  town  several  hours,  nW  wiilkiiin  tla-  streets  with  impunity,  ho  was 
escorted  by  n  number  of  ciii/.eiis  of  Van  Utiren  to  the  boat,  and  took  his  leiivo  of  tlio 
plnre,  Verily  we  had  Iour  thon>;ht  that  ilie  bloodthirsty  molxxTuts  of  Miss(niri  nnd 
Illiiiiiis  were  wilh.,ut  ii  parallel  in  the  world,  but  wo  now  yield  the  palm  to  tho 
Chureh-k'oinR  citi/.ens  of  Van  Huren,  for  they  have  jiroven  to  the  world  that  they  nro 
ft  den  of  mnrden'rs  and  assassins.  (iK.onoK  IIkkiinmon. 

(iKniKiK  CRoiroii.' " 
*  On  tlii^  ..,  eH^iuli,  ("edar  Fort,  n  neiuhlmrinK  settlement,  with  enltivntion,  nnd  a 
few  huts,  near  Cnmp  Kloyd,  was  attacked  at  nijiht  by  eamp-followers  (soldiers);  a 
sintile  calf  \viis  killed  (the  wholi-  place  was  burned  to'lhe  uroiind),  and  the  damuRo* 
sjici  dily  rose  from  n  do«en  to  flO.tKK),  claimed  from  Couijreim  (which  ilid  not  liulf 
repay  llio  injury  doucj. 


;r  k 


I  '^''' 


842 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VII, 


uefer  to  he  a  peaceful  citizen,  and  quiet,  iinoffending  man,  thus 
brutally  outraged  by  lyranuical  servants  of  government,  and, 
moreover,  prove  for  him  an  alibi  from  the  original  cause  of  quar- 
rel. I  have  given  but  a  few  instances:  all  are  equally  contra- 
dictory, and  tantas  componerc  lites  quis  audet? 

Strongly  disclaiming  the  idea  that  the  officers  who  discussed 
with  me  the  subject  at  Camp  Floyd  had  any  tendency  to  exag- 
geration or  to  set  down  aught  in  malice,  and  quite  conscious,  as 
they  never  failed  to  remark,  that  a  stranger  is  allowed  to  see  only 
tiie  heau  cote  of  the  New  Faith,  I  can  not  but  think  that  their 
views  are  greatly  warped  by  causes  external  to  it.  This  is  to  be 
expected.  Who,  after  the  massacre  of  Cawnpore,  would  have  ad- 
mitted into  his  mind  a  shadow  of  excuse  for  Nana  Sahib?  Among 
so  many,  however  blinded  and  llxnatic,  and  however  fond  of  po- 
lygamy— this  is  ever  the  first  reproach — there  must  be  some  good 
men.  Yet  from  the  "  chief  im])ostor"  to  the  last  "  acolyte,  all 
are  represented  to  bo  a  gang  of  miscreants.  The  ]^Iormons  are 
far  more  tolerant ;  they  have  praise  for  tliose  Gentiles,  cn  u  fed- 
eral officers,  who  have  abstained  from  injuring  them.  They  speak 
well  of  Lieutenant  Colonel  E..T.  Steptoe,  9th  Itegiment  of  Infantry, 
and  the  officers  of  liis  force  ;*  of  General  Wilson,  afterward  the 
Navy  Agent  at  San  Francisco;  and  of  the  present  commandant. 
Colonel  Cooke.  Tliey  have  nothing  to  say  against  Judge  Keed, 
or  Mr.  John  J.  Kinney,  the  Ciiicf  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court; 
and  when  Judge  Leonidas  Shaver  died  in  1855,  they  put  the  pa- 
pers in  mourning,  and  buried  the  Gentile  in  their  cemetery.  They 
do  not  abuse  even  their  merchant  rivals.  Mr.  J.  B.  Kimball,  to 
mention  no  other,  is  generally  praised  and  trusted.  But  when  they 
find  it  necessary  or  advisable  to  take  away  a  man's  character,  they 
can  do  it,  "and  no  mistake."  At  tlie  same  time,  their  tolerance 
and  di9cij)line  arc,  to  nay  the  Icjust,  reniarkabk\  Judge  Brocchus,f 
to  quote  but  one,  would  run  tlu>  risk  of  being  torn  to  pieces  in 
almost  any  fanatical  meeting  in  Europe. 

At  Camp  Floyd  I  wa.s  introduced  to  Colonel  G.  IT.  Crossman, 
Pt'partment  (Juarter-master  (uMuM-al,  and  Major  MontgomcMy  of 
the  .same  department ;  to  Dr.  Porter,  who  v»'as  uncommonly  and 
nnnecessarily  shy  upon  the  subject  of  a  "sick  certificate;"  and  to 
LieufxMiant  N.  A.  M.  Dudley,  when  we  pa.ssed  many  a  merry  time 
over  "simpkin."  It  is  hardly  ncgessary  to  say  thr.'  Oie  jndj.e, 
having  no  authority  to  demand,  n!d  not  obtain  cifi  r  escort  or 
carriage.  Colonel  Cooke  frankly  told  him  that  he  had  neither 
men  nor  conveyance  at  liln  ity,  and  even  if  they  were  tliat  ho 
could  not  exceed  orders.  'I'iic"  Secretary  of  War  is  ready  to  "bo 
down"  upon  such  olVen.se.",  and  in  the  Itnited  States  Army  prob* 

*  ^fr.  I[_V(1p  fflinp.  vi.)  f.\\-o%  t!ie  offlrinl  dornrnpnt  ir  wliirli  thisi-  'iflRrpri  )i('ti- 
tioncil  I'rpuldctit  I'ii-rcoto  rcnpimitii  Mr.  liriHlinm  YoiiiiK  n«  (iovcrni^r  nml  .Su|KTin. 
t«n(li-nt  of  Iniliiin  Affuirit  in  L'tfth  Turritorr,  niul  it  iit>«-nk«  voliiinri)  in  prainc  of  :lio 
miicli-iiliiiMHl  Sikiiiu.  t  Cliu|i.  vi. 


Chap.  Vm.  "BOSTON."— COTTON-WOOD  KANYON. 


84& 


ably  more  officers  throw  up  the  service  from  distress  for  leave 
than  in  the  English  army.  It  was  clear  that  we  must  travel  with- 
out  the  dignities,  so  we  inspected  an  ambulance  and  a  four-mule 
team,  for  which  the  Hungarian  refugee,  its  owner,  asked  SIOOO— 


but  little  beyond  its  worth.     After  an  exceedingly  satisfactory 

e,  I  passed  the  evening  at  Captain  Gove's 


day  in  a  private  sense,  _  ^ ^  ,,„  ^^^, 

and  watohed  with  astonishment  the  game  of  Boston.  Invented 
by  the  French  prisoners  in  the  islands  of  the  American  Liverpool 
and  aboundmg  iu  "  grand  misery,"  "  little  misery,"  and  other  ap' 
propriate  terms,  it  combines  all  the  difficulties  of  whist,  ecartd,  pi- 
quet, brag,  and  cribbage,  and  seems  to  possess  the  same  attractions 
which  beam  upon  the  mind  of  the  advanced  algebraic  scholar. 
Fortunately  there  was  an  abundance  of  good  commissariat  whisky 
and  excellent  tobacco,  whose  attractions  were  greater  than  that  of 
Boston.  On  the  morrow,  a  gloomy  morning,  with  cold  blasts  and 
spatters  of  rain  from  the  southwest,  and  the  tameness  of  the  snow- 
birds— which  here  represent 

•'  Cock  Robin  and  Jenny  Wren, 
God  Almighty's  cock  and  hen" — 

warned  us  that  the  fine  season  was  breaking  up,  and  that  we  had 
no  time  to  lose.  So,  inspanning  Julia  and  Sally,  we  set  out,  and 
after  six  hours  reached  once  more  the  City  of  the  Saints. 


8)«   i" 

T3  VJi 


ir. 

in 


1 1 


CHAPTER  YIIL 

Excursions  continued. 

I  UAi)  long  been  anxious  to  visit  the  little  chain  of  lakes  in  tho 
"Wasach  ^fountains,  southeast  of  tho  city,  and  the  spot  where  the 
Saints  celebrate  their  "  Great  'J'wenty-lourth  of  July."  At  din- 
ner the  subject  had  been  often  on  the  carpet,  and  aiiti-I^formona 
had  informed  ine,  liinting  at  the  presence  of  gold,  that  no  Gentile 
was  allowed  to  enter  Cotton-wood  Kanyon  without  a  wiitlen  per- 
mit from  the  l^residcnt  Prophet.  Through  my  friend  tlie  elder  I 
easily  obtained  the  sign  manual;  it  was  explained  to  me  tliat  tho 
danger  of  firca  in  a  niace  wiiich  will  supply  the  city  with  lumber 
for  a  generation,  and  the  niisehievousness  of  enemie.^,  were  at  tho 
bottom  of  tin  precaution.  Before  starting,  however,  two  Saints 
werft  chosen  to  aceoni|)any  me,  Mr.  S ,  and  Mr.,  (»r  rather  Col- 
onel, Feranior/,,  po[)ularIy  called  Ferry,  Little.  This  gentleman, 
a  partner,  n-lative,  and  connection  of  Alr.Brigham  Young,  is  ono 
of  the  "Seventies;"  of  small  and  si)aro  jierson,  ho  is  remarkablo 
for  pluck  and  hardihood,  and  in  conjunction  witli  Ephe  Hanks, 
tlie  I)anite,  he  has  seen  curious  things  on  the  Prairies. 

A  skittish,  unbroken,  stunted,  weedy  three-year-old  for  myself, 
ond  u  tall  mule  for  my  companion,  we're  readily  lent  by  Mr.  Keu« 


'r^-'UL- 


344 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VIII. 


nedy,  an  Irish  Gentile  and  stock-dealer,  who,  being  bound  on  bus- 
iness to  Cnlifornia,  was  in  treaty  with  us  for  reward  in  case  of 
safe-conduct.  We  chose  the  morning  of  the  14th  of  September, 
after  the  first  snow  had  whitened  the  peaks,  and  a  glorious  cool, 
clear  day  it  was  —  a  sky  diaphanous,  as  if  earth  had  been  roofed 
with  rock  crystal.  While  awaiting  the  hour  to  depart  under  the 
veranda  of  the  hotel,  Governor  Gumming  pointed  out  to  me  Bill 
Hickman,  once  the  second  of  the  great  "  Danitc"  triumVirate,  and 
now  somewhat  notorious  for  meddling  with  Church  property. 
lie  is  a  good-looking  fellow,  about  forty-five,  .rather  stout  and 
square,  with  high  forehead,  open  countenance,  and  mild,  light  blae 
eye,  and  owns,  I  believe,  to  only  three  deaths.  On  the  last  Christ- 
mas-day, upon  occasion  of  a  difiiculty  with  a  youth  named  Lot 
Huntingdon,  the  head  of  the  youngster  party,  he  had  drawn  his 
"bowie,"  and  a  "shooting"  took  place,  both  combatants  exchang- 
ing contents  of  revolvers  across  the  street,  both  being  well  filled 
with  slugs,  and  both  living  to  tell  the  tale. 

"Do  you  know  what  that  fellow  is  saying  to  himself?"  asked 
the  governor,  reading  the  thoughts  of  a  fiercely  frowning  youth 
who  swaggered  past  us. 

I  confessed  to  the  negative. 

"  Ho  is  only  thinking,  '  D — d  gov'rnor,  wonder  if  he's  a  better 
man  than  me,'  "  said  my  interlocutor. 

About  4  P.\[.  we  mounted  and  rode  out  of  the  city  toward  the 
mouth  of  the  kanyon,  where  we  were  to  meet  Mr.  Little.  Passing 
by  the  sugar-mills  and  turning  eastward,  after  five  or  six  miles 
we  saw  at  a  distance  a  block  of  buildings,  which  presently,  as  if 
by  enchantment,  sank  into  the  earth ;  an  imperceptible  wave  of 
ground  —  a  common  prairie  formation  —  had  intervened.  P^om 
the  summit  of  the  land  we  again  sighted  the  establishment.  It  is 
situated  in  the  '^road  btul  of  a  dry  Jiumara — which  would,  by-tjic- 
by,  be  a  perilous  place  in  the  tropics — issuing  from  Parh'y's  Kan- 
yon. The  ravine,  which  is  sometimes  practiced  by  emigrant 
trains,  is  a  dangerous  pjuss,  hero  and  there  but  a  few  rods  wide, 
and  henuned  in  by  rocLs  rising  perpendicularly  2000  feet.  The 
principal  house  was  built  for  delense,  the  garden  was  walled  round, 
and  the  inciosure  had  but  two  small  doors. 

We  were  met  at  the  entrance;  by  Mr.  Little,  who,  while  supper 
was  being  prepared,  led  us  to  the  tannery  and  the  grist-mill,  of 
which  lie  is  part  proprietor.  The  bark  ns(>d  for  the  process  is  the 
red  lir,  costing  .§25  per  cord,  and  the  refuse  is  employed  in  com- 
posts. The  liides  arc  received  unsalted;  to  save  labor,  they  arc 
pegged  to  soak  upon  wheels  turned  by  water-j)ower.  The  leather 
IH  good,  and  under  ex[)eriene(Ml  Kunmean  workmen  will  presently 
biHiome  (!liea[)er  than  that  imporU>d  trom  Knglanfl. 

Beyond  the  tannery  wjvs  an  adobe  manufacture.  The  brick  in 
this  part  splits  while  burning,  consenueiitly  the  sun-dried  article 
is  preferrecl ;  wlicn  the  wall  is  to  be  faced,  pegs  arc  driven  into  it 


.^,1l:s«'i 


Chap.  VIII. 


EVERY  CHILD  A  RELATIVE. 


345 


to  hold  the  plaster.  The  material  is  clay  or  silt  from  the  creek 
puddled  with  water,  and  if  saltish  it  is  better  than  sweet  soil ' 
unity  of  color  and  formation  are  the  tests  of  goodness.  Each 
brick  weighs,  when  dry,  16  lbs.,  and  the  mould  is  mostly  double 
On  the  day  after  making  they  are  stacked,  and  allowed  to  stand 
for  two  months ;  the  season  is  June,  July,  and  August,  after  which 
it  becomes  too  cold.  The  workman  is  paid  75  per  cent. ;  400  per 
diem  would  be  tolerable,  700  good  work ;  thus  an  alDle-bodied 
bricklayer  can  make  twenty-one  shillings  a  day — rather  a  con- 
trast to  the  wages  of  an  unfortunate  laborer  in  England. 

Eeturning  home,  we  walked  through  Mr.  Little's  garden,  and 
admired  its  neatness.  The  fruit-trees  were  mostly  barren-  in 
this  year  the  city  sets  down  a  loss  of  $100,000  by  frost.  I  tasted, 
for  the  first  time,  the  Californian  grape,  "  uvas  admodiim  maturas' 
ita  voluit  anni  intemperies ;"  they  not  a  little  resembled  the  north- 
ern French.  A  single  vino  sometimes  bears  $100  worth.  There 
was  a  little  rhubarb,  but  it  is  not  much  used  where  siwht  costs 
forty-five  cents  per  pound.  After  supping  with  Mr.  Little,  his 
wile  and  family,  we  returned  to  the  andronilis,  and  prepared  for 
the  night  with  a  chat.  The  principal  point  illustrated  was  the 
curious  amount  of  connection  caused  by  polygamy;  all  men 
calling  each  other  brothers,  become  cousins,  and  it  is  hardly  pos- 
sible, among  the  old  Mormons,  to  stop  a  child  in  the  street  with- 
out finding  that  it  is  a  relative.  I  was  surprised  at  the  comfort, 
even  the  luxury,  of  a  Mormon  householder  in  these  remote  wilds' 
and  left  it  with  a  most  favorable  impression. 

At  the  dawn  of  the  next  day  we  prepared  to  set  out;  from  the 
city  to  the  mouth  of  the  kanyon  the  distance  is  abou"  thirteen, 
and  to  the  lakelets  twenty-seven  miles,  !^[r.  Little  now  accom- 
panied us  on  horseback,  and  his  son  James,  whom  I  may  hero 
safely  call  a  bo}^,  was  driving  a  buck-board.  This  article  is  a 
light  gig-body  mounted  upon  a  thin  planking,  to  winch  luggage 
is  strapped ;  it  can  go  where  a  horse  can  tread,  and  is  easier  to 
botli  animals  than  riding  down  steep  hills.  The  boy,  like  Mor- 
mon juveniles  generally,  had  a  great  a})titude  at  driving,  riding, 
and  using  the  axe;  he  attended  a  school,  but  infinitely  preferred 
tliat  of  Nature,  and  showed  all  the  disposition  to  become  the  father 
of  n,  stout,  brave  Western  man.  As  in  the  wilder  parts  of  Aus- 
tralia, where  the  pedagogue  has  less  pay  than  the  shepherd,  "  keep 
a  school"  is  here  equivalent  to  semi-starvation;  there  is  no  super- 
stitious aversion,  as  the  (tentiles  have  asserted,  to  a  modicum  of 
education,  but  the  state  of  life  renders  manual  labor  more  honored 
and  profitable.  While  the  schoolmaster  gains  $2  50  per  mensem, 
a  ditcher  would  make  the  Pnine  ^\\\w  per  diem.  Besides  impa- 
tience of  Ktudy,  the  boys  arc  <.'ver  anxious  to  become  men--"  bring 
up  n  child  and  away  it  goes,"  ^ayg  the  local  proverb — and  litera- 
ture will  not  yt't  cnablt^  a  v.M;tJi  to  marry  and  to  set  up  house- 
keeping in  the  Kocky  Mouritaina. 


■r.ff 


t,  f 


\  ' 


346 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VIH. 


Our  route  lay  over  the  bench ;  on  our  right  was  a  square  adobe 
fort,  that  bad  been  used  during  the  Indian  troubles,  and  lields  and 
houses  were  scattered  about.  Passing  the  mouth  of  Parleys 
Kanyon,  we  entered  the  rich  bottom-land  of  the  Great  Cotton- 
wood, beautified  with  groves  of  quaking  asp,  whose  foliage  was 
absolute  green,  set  off  by  paper -white  stems.  After  passing 
through  an  avenue  of  hardheads,  i.  e.,  erratic  granite  boulders 
which  are  carted  to  the  city  for  building  the  Temple,  we  turned 
to  the  left  and  entered  the  mouth  of  the  kanyon,  where  its  sides 
flare  out  into  gentler  slopes.  m  „  u  j 

A  clear  mountain  stream  breaks  down  the  middle.  Ihe  bed 
is  a  mass  of  pebbles  and  blocks:  hornblende;  a  white  limestone, 
almost  marble,  but  full  of  flaws ;  red  sandstone  greenstcme,  and  a 
con  trlomeratc  like  mosaic- work.  The  bank  is'thick  with  the  pop- 
lar Irom  which  it  derives  its  name ;  willow  clumps ;  the  a  der, 
with  its  dry,  mulberry-like  fruit ;  the  hop  vine,  and  a  birch  whose 
bark  is  red  as  the  cherry-tree's.  Above  the  stream  the  ravine 
sides  are  in  places  too  steep  for  growth ;  as  a  rule,  the  northern  is 
never  wooded  save  where  the  narrowness  of  the  gorge  impeuea 
the  action  of  the  violent  south  winds.  On  the  lower  banks  the 
timber  is  mostly  cleared  oft'.  Upon  the  higher  slopes  grow  the 
mountain  mahonaiiy  and  the  scrub  maple  wherever  there  is  a  loot 
of  soil.  There  is  a  line,  sturdy  growth  of  abies  The  spruce,  or 
white  pine,  rises  in  a  beautifully  regular  cone  often  100  ioet  high ; 
there  are  two  principal  varieties  of  fir,  one  with  smooth  light  bark, 
and  the  other,  whicli  loves  a  higher  range,  and  looks  black  as  it 
bristles  out  of  its  snowy  bed,  is  of  a  dun  russet.  Already  appear- 
ed  the  splendid  tints  which  make  the  American  autumn  a  lit  sub- 
icct  "  pidorihus  at'iue  poetic  An  atmosphere  of  blue  seemed  to 
invest  the  pines;  the  maple  blushed  bright  red;  and  the  willow 
clumps  of  tlic  bed  and  the  tapestry  of  ferns  had  turned  to  vegeta- 
ble  cold  while  snow,  bleached  to  more  than  usual  whiteness  by 
intervals'  of  deep  black  soil,  flecked  the  various  shade  of  the  poison 
hemlocks  and  balsam  firs,  and  the  wild  strawberry,  which  the 
birds  had  stripped  of  fruit.  v       r.i 

Groat  Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  like  the  generality  of  these  ravines 
in  the  western  wall  of  the  Wasach,  runs  cast  and  west  till  near 
the  head  when  it  gently  curves  toward  the  north,  and  is  separated 
from  its  'neighbor  by  a  narrow  divide.  On  both  sides  the  con- 
tinuity of  the  gai)  "is  cut  by  deep  jagged  gullies  rendering  it 
impossible  to  crown  the  heights.  The  road,  whioli  winds  from 
Bido  to  side,  was  worked  by  thirty-two  men,  directed  by  Mr.  Little, 
in  one  season,  at  a  total  exncniie  of  $1(5,000.  After  exhausting 
Red  Buttes,  Emigration,  and  other  kanyons,  for  timber  and  iuel, 
Oroftt  Cottnn-wood  wim  oxplon-d  in  1854,  and  m  1850  the  a.scciit 
was  ina.l(>  practicable.  In  jilaeeH  where  the  gorge  narrows  to  a 
gnt  theni  were  great  diflieuUies.  but  nicks  were  removed,  while 
tree-trunks  and  boughs  were  spread  like  a  corduroy,  and  covered 


Chap.  YIII. 


GREAT  COTTON-WOOD  KANYON. 


347 


over  with  earth  brought  from  a  distance :  Mormon  energy  over- 
came every  obstacle.  It  is  repaired  every  summer  before  the  an- 
niversary festival ;  it  suffers  during  the  autumn,  and  is  preserved 
from  destruction  by  the  winter  snows.  In  many  places  there  are 
wooden  bridges,  one  of  which  pays  toll,  and  at  the  end  of  the  sea- 
son they  become  not  a  little  rickety.  As  may  be  imagined,  the 
water-power  has  been  utilized.  Lines  and  courses  carefully  lev- 
eled, and  in  parts  deeply  excavated,  lest  the  precious  fluid  should 
spread  out  in  basins,  are  brought  from  afar,  and  provided  with 
water-gates  and  coffer-dams.  The  mills  arc  named  after  the  let- 
ters C,  B,  A,  D,  and  lastly  E.  Already  700,000  square  feet  of 
lumber  have  been  cut  during  this  summer,  and  a  total  of  a  mill- 
ion is  expected  before  the  mills  are  snowed  up ;  you  come  upon 
these  ugly  useful  erections  suddenly,  round  a  sharp  turn  in  the 
bed ;  they  have  a  queer  effect  with  their  whirring  saws  and  crash 
of  timber,  forming  a  treble  to  the  musical  bass  of  the  water-gods. 

We  halted  at  the  several  mills,  when  Mr.  Little  overlooked 
his  accounts,  and  distributed  stores  of  coffee,  sugar,  and  tobacco. 
After  the  first  five  miles  we  passed  flecks  of  snow;  the  thermom- 
eter, however,  in  the  shade  never  showed  less  than  C0°  F.  In 
places  the  hill  sides  were  bald  from  the  effect  of  avalanches,  and 
we  saw  where  a  house  had  lately  been  swept  away.  In  others  a 
fine  white  limestone  glistened  its  deception.  After  passing  Mill 
D,  we  debouched  upon  the  basin  also  called  the  Big  Prairie,  a 
dwarf  turfy  savanna,  about  100  yards  in  diameter,  rock  and  tree 
girt,  and  separated  from  Parley's  Kanyon  on  the  north  by  a  tall, 
narrow  wall.  We  then  ascended  a  slope  of  black,  viscid,  slippery 
mud,  in  which  our  animals  were  nearly  mired,  with  deep  slush- 
holes  and  cross-roots:  as  Vfe  progressed  the  bridges  did  not  im- 
prove. On  our  left,  in  a  pretty  grove  of  thin  pines,  stood  a  bear- 
traj).  It  was  a  dwarf  hut,  with  one  or  two  doors,  which  foil  when 
Cuil'y  tugs  the  bait  from  the  figure  of  4  in  the  centre.  These 
mountaineers  apparently  ignore  the  simple  plan  of  the  Tchuvash, 
who  fill  up  witli  corn-brandy  a  hollow  in  some  tree  lying  across 
"old  Ephraim's"  path,  and  catch  him  dead  drunk.  In  many 
places  tue  quaking-asp  trunks  were  deeply  indented  with  claw- 
scars,  showing  that  tlie  climbing  species  is  hero  common.  Shortly 
before,  a  bear  had  been  shot  within  a  few  miles  of  Great  Salt 
Lake  City,  and  its  paws  api)cared  upon  the  hotel  (ahle  d^holc. 

About  mid  afternoon  wc  dismounted,  and  left  our  nags  and 
traps  at  Mill  p],  the  highest  point,  where  wo  were  to  pass  the 
niglit,  Mr,  Little  was  suffering  from  a  severe  neuralgia,  vet  ho 
insisted  upon  accompanying  us.  With  visions  of  Albano,  follar- 
ncy,  and  Windermere,  I  walked  up  the  half  mile  of  hill  separating 
ns  from  Groat  Ootton-wood  Lake.  In  front  rose  tall  ])inoolad 
and  siiow-st rowed  jioaks,  a  ml  <k  sac  formed  by  tlic  summit  of  tho 
Wasacli.  AVo  could  not  see  their  feet,  but  instinct  told  me  that 
they  dropped  around  the  water.    The  creek  narrowed  to  a  jump. 


'ii 


•n 


348 


THE  CITY  OF  TiiE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VIII. 


a 
^ 


Presently  we  arrived  at  a  kind  of  punch-bowl,  formed  by  an  am- 
phitheatre of  frowning  broken  mountains,  highest  and  most  snowy 
on  the  southeast  and  west,  and  nearly  clear  of  snow  and  trees  on 
the  east.  The  level  ground,  perhaps  one  mile  in  diameter,  was  a 
green  sward,  dotted  with  blocks  and  boulders,  based  on  black  hu- 
mus and  granite  detritus.  Part  of  it  was  clear,  the  rest  was  ivy- 
grown,  with  pines,  clumps,  and  circlets  of  tall  trees,  surrounded 
by  their  young  in  bunches  and  fringes,  as  if  planted  by  the  hand 
of  man.  There  were  signs  of  the  last  season  s  revelry — heaps  of 
charcoal  and  charred  trunks,  rough  tables  of  two  planks  support- 
ed by  trestles,  chairs  or  rail-like  settles,  and  the  brushy  remnants 
of  three  "boweries,"  Two  r-kulls  showed  that  wolves  had  been 
busy  with  the  cattle.  Freshly-caught  trout  lay  upon  the  table, 
preserved  in  snow,  and  in  the  distance  the  woodman's  axe  awoke 
with  artful  sound  the  echoes  of  the  rocks. 

At  last  we  came  upon  the  little  tarn  which  occupies  the  lowest 
angle,  the  western  ridge  of  the  punch-bowl  or  prairie  basin.  Un- 
known to  Captain  Stansbury,  it  had  been  visited  of  old  by  a  few 
mountain-men,  and  since  1854  by  the  mass  of  the  Mormons,  Ac- 
cording to  my  informants  it  is  the  largest  of  a  chaplet  of  twelve 
pools,  two  to  the  S.W.  and  ten  to  the  S,E.,  which  are  probably 
independent  bulges  in  the  several  torrent  beds.  Some  are  de- 
scribed as  having  no  outlet,  yet  all  arc  declared  to  be  sweet  water. 
The  altitude  has  not  been  ascertained  scientifically.  It  is  roughly 
set  down  between  9500  and  10,000  feet.  It  was  then  at  its  small- 
est— about  half  a  mile  long  by  one  quarter  broad.  After  the 
melting  of  the  snow  it  spreads  out  over  the  Jittle  savanna.  The 
bottom  is  sandy  and  gravelly,  sloping  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
deep.  It  freezes  over  in  winter,  and  about  25-30  IMay  tlic  ice 
breaks  up  and  sinks.  The  runnel  which  feeds  it  descends  from 
the  snow-capped  peak  to  the  south,  and  copious  supplies  trickle 
through  the  sojipy  margin  at  the  base  of  the  dripping  hills  around. 
The  surplus  escapes  through  a  head  to  the  north,  where  a  gated 
dam  is  thrown  acro.ss  to  raise  the  level,  and  to  regulate  the  water- 
power.  The  color  is  a  milky  white ;  the  water  is  warm,  and  its 
earthy  vegetable  taste,  the  effect  of  the  weeds  that  margin  it,  con- 
trasts with  the  purity  of  the  creek  which  drains  it.  The  fiph  are 
principally  mountain  trout  and  the  gymnotus  eel.  In  search  of 
shells  we  walked  round  the  margin,^iow  sinking  in  the  peaty 
ground,  then  clambering  over  the  bouhlers  —  white  stones  that, 
rolled  down  from  tlie  perpendicular  rocks  above,  simulated  snow 
— then  fighting  our  way  through  the  thick  willow  clumps.  Our 
quest,  however,  was  not  rewarded.  After  satisfying  curiosity,  wo 
descend<'d  by  a  sliort  cut  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  under  tall  trees 
whose  shade  preserved  the  snow,  and  found  ourselves  once  more 
in  Mill  E, 

Tlie  log  hut  was  of  the  usual  make.     A  cold  wind — the  mer- 
cury huxl  fallen  to  00"  F.— rattled  through  the  crannies,  and  wc 


Chat.  VIII.       FELLING  TREES.— INDEPENDENCE  DAY. 


349 


prepared  for  a  freezing  night  by  a  blazing  fire.     The  furniture 

two  bunks,  with  buffalo  robes,  tables  and  chairs,  which  were  bits 
of  plank  mounted  on  four  legs — was  of  the  rudest.  I  whiled 
away  the  last  hours  of  light  by  adding  to  my  various  accomplish- 
ments an  elementary  knowledge  of  felling  trees.  Handling  the 
timber-axe  is  by  no  means  so  simple  a  process  as  it  appears.  The 
woodman  does  it  by  instinct ;  the  tyro,  who  is  always  warned 
that  he  may  easily  indent  or  slice  off  a  bit  of  his  leg,  progresses 
slowly  and  painfully.  The  principal  art  is  to  give  the  proper  an- 
gle t6  the  blade,  to  whirl  the  implement  loosely  round  the  head, 
and  to  let  it  fall  by  the  force  of  its  own  weight,  the  guiding  hand 
gliding  down  the  haft  to  the  other,  in  order  not  to  break  the  blow. 
We  ate  copiously ;  appetite  appeared  to  come  by  eating,  though 
not  in  the  Parisian  sense  of  the  phrase— what  a  treasure  would 
be  such  a  sanitarium  in  India !  The  society  was  increased  by  two 
sawyers,  gruff  and  rugged  men,  one  of  whom  suffered  from  oph- 
thalmia, and  two  boys,  who  successfully  imitated  their  elders. 

Our  fireside  chat  was  sufficiently  interesting.  Mr.  S de- 
scribed the  ceremonies  of  the  last  Aformon  Independence  Day. 
After  the  preUminaries  had  been  settled  as  below,*  the  caravans 

*  Extract  from  tlie  Great  Salt  Lake  correspondent  of  that  amiable  and  conscien- 
tious periodical,  the  "New  York  Herald." 

'■'■The  Great  Twenty-fourth  of  Jiihj. 

"In  my  last  I  gave  your  readers  a  full  account  of  the  Mormon  demonstrations  on 
the  anniversary  of  American  inde|)endence.  That  done,  they  have  now  before  them 
the  celebration  of  their  own  independence.  Adhesiveness  is  larj  'v  developed  in  the 
Mormon  cranium.  They  will  hold  on  to  their  notions.  On  tiie  .  i;th  of  July,  1847, 
Brigham,  .at  the  head  of  the  pioneers,  entered  this  now  beautiful  vallej-— theii'a  bar- 
ren ^^•ildol•ness.  Torgetfiil  of  the  means  that  forced  them  here,  the  day  was  set  apart 
for  rejoiciuft.  They  laid  aside  the  weeds  of  mourning,  and  consecra'ted  the  day  to 
feasting  and  dancing.  The  Twenty-fourth  is  the  day  of  deliverance  that  will  be 
handed  down  to  generations  when  the  Fourth  is  imtneasurably  forgotten.  Three 
years  ago,  two  thousand  persons  were  congregated  at  the  head-waters  of  Big  Cotton- 
wood, commemorating  independence,  when  messengers  from  the  East  arrived  with 
the  intelligence  that  the  tro()[)S  were  on  the  plains.  I  need  not  farther  allude  to  wimt 
was  then  said  and  done ;  suffice  it,  things  have  been  so  disjointed  since  that  Big  Cot- 
ton-wood h.as  been  left  alone  in  solitude.  Setting  aside  the  restraint  of  year.s,  it 
fcems  that  the  faithful  are  to  again  enjoy  themselves.  The  following  card  tells  the 
marching  orders ;  the  interstices  will  be  "filled  up  with  orations,  songs,  pravers,  dance.«, 
and  every  kind  of  athletic  game  that  the  young  mav  choose  to  indulge  in : 

"  Tiventii  fourth  ofjuhj  at  the  llemt-qvnrti'r.i  of  I'Viq  Cotton-H-ood.—Vrc^xdont  Brig- 
ham  Young  respectfully  invites  to  attend  a  pieiiic  excursion  to  the  lake  in  Big 

Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  on  Tuesday,  the  24th  of  July. 

_'•  A'.y/«/,(^on.<.— You  will  be  reipiired  to  start  so  as  to  pass  the  first  mill,  about  four 
miles  up  tlij  kanyon,  before  twelve  o'clock  on  Mondav,  the  2ad,  as  no  i)erson  will  be 
allowed  to  pass  that  point  after  two  o'clock  P.M.  of  that  dav.  All  persons  are  for- 
bidden ;o  smoke  segars  or  jiipcs,  or  kindle  fires  at  any  jdace  i'n  the  kanyon,  except  on 
the  camp-ground.  The  bishops  are  recjuested  to  accompany  those  invited  from  their 
respective  wards,  and  see  that  each  person  is  well  fitted  for"  the  trip  with  good,  sul)- 
Btantial,  steady  teams,  wagons,  harness,  hold-backs  and  locks,  capable  of  completing 
the  journey  without  repair,  and  a  pood  driver,  so  as  nnt  to  endanger  the  life  of  any 
individual.  Bishops,  heads  of  families,  and  leiulei-s  of  sumll  jiarties  will,  liefore  pass- 
ing the  first  mill,  furnish  a  full  and  complete  list  of  all  persons  accompanying  them, 
and  hand  t\\::  same  to  the  guard  at  the  gate. 

"  Vommittee  of  Arrumjements.—A.  O.  Smoot,  John  Sharp,  L.  W.  ilardy,  A.  Cun- 


5l0:?lflfJ| 


H 


1  :  .  :.»! 


^Aimami 


350 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  VIII. 


Bet  out  from  the  Holy  City.    In  1860  there  were  1122  souls  56 
carriages,  163  wagons,  235  horses,  159  mules,  and  168  oxen     They 
bivouacked  for  the  night  upon  tlie  road,  and  marched  with  a  cer- 
tain ceremony.     The  first  President  issued  an  order  allowmg  any 
one  to  press  forward,  though  not  at  the  expense  of  others ;  still 
no  one  would  precede  him ;  nor  wouUl  the  second  advance  before 
the  third  President  — a  good  example  to  some  who  might  want 
'teachin<'.     Moreover,  the  bishops  had  the  privilege  of  inviting, 
or,  rather,  of  permitting  the  people  of  their  several  wards,  even 
Gentiles,  to  attend.    The  "  pioneers"-the  survivorg  of  the  noble 
143  who,  guided  by  their  Joshua,  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  first  at- 
tempted the  Promised  Land— were  distinguished  by  their  names 
on  banners,  and  the  bands  played  lustily  ''God  save  the  King, 
and  the  "Star-spangled  Banner,"  "Happy  Land, '  and  "Du-dah  ' 
At  six  on  the  fine  morning  of  the  24th,  which  followed  ugly 
weather,  a  salute  of  three  guns,  in  honor  of  the  First  Presidency, 
was  fired,  with  music  in  the  intervals,  the  stars  and  the  stripes 
floating  on  the  top  of  the  noblest  staft;  a  tall  fir-tree.    At  9  A.M. 
a  salute  of  thirteen  guns,  denoting  the  age  of  New  Zion,  and  at 
6  P.M.  twelve  guns,  corresponding  with  the  number  of  the  apos- 
tles were  discharged  with  similar  ceremonies.     The  scene  must 
have  been  lively  and  picturesque  around  the  bright  little  tarn,  and 
under  the  everlasting  hills  — a  holiday  crowd,  with  wagons  and 
ambulances  drawn  up,  tents  and  marquees  pitched  under  the 
groves,  and  horse-races,  in  which  the  fiiir  sex  joined,  over  the  soft 
green  sward.     At  10  P.M.,  after  the  dancing  in  the  boweries  had 
flagged,  the  bands  finished  with  "  Home,  sweet  Home,    and  the 
Sa?nta  returned  to  their  every-day  occupations. 

Mr  Little  also  recounted  to  us  his  experiences  among  the  In- 
dians,'whom  he,  like  all  the  Mormons,  firmly  believed  to  be  chil- 
dren of  Israel  under  a  cloud.  He  compared  the  medicine  lodge 
to  a  masonic  hall,  and  declared  that  the  so-called  Eed  Men  had 
si^rns  and  grips  like  ourselves;  and  ho  related  how  an  old  chief, 
when  certain  symbolic  actions  were  made  to  him,  wept  and  wail- 
ed thinking  how  he  and  his  had  neglected  their  observances. 
The  Saints  were  at  one  time  good  masons;  unhappily  they  want- 
ed to  be  better.  The  angel  of  the  Lord  brought  to  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith  the  lost  key-words  of  several  degrees,  which  caused  him, 
when  he  appeare^l  among  the  brotherhood  of  Illinois,  to  "work 
riglit  ahead"  of  the  highest,  and  to  show  them  their  ignorance  of 
the  greatest  truths  and  benefits  of  masonry.  The  natural  result 
was  that  their  diploma  was  taken  from  them  by  the  Grand  Lodge, 
and  they  arc  not  admitted  to  a  Gentile  gathering.  Is  ow  heathens 
without  the  gate,  they  still  cling  to  their  heresy,  and  declare  that 
other  masonry  is,  like  the  Christian  faith,  founded  upon  truth,  and 

nincl.rtm,  E.  F.  Sheets.  V.  Krslcr,  Tl.omns  Cnllistcr,  A.  IT.  llal(-if!h,  Ilciuy  Moon. 
J.  V.  Little.  Mnrslml  of  the  Day;  Colonel  11.  T.  Burton  will  nrnnipo  the  Guard. 
"  Ureat  t?ait  Uko  City,  July  10,  WOO." 


mm^^ 


Chap,  VIII.    FREE-MASONRY.— MORALITY.— TOLERANCE. 


351 


originally  of  the  eternal  Churcli,  but  fallen  away  and  far  gone  in 
error.  There  is  no  race,  except  perhaps  antiquaries,  more  credu- 
lous than  the  brethren  of  the  mystic  craft.  1  have  been  told  by 
one  who  may  have  deceived  himself,  but  would  not  have  deceived 
me,  that  the  Eoyal  Arch,  notoriously  a  corruption  of  the  Royal 
Arras,  is  known  to  the  Bedouins  of  Arabia ;  while  the  dairy  of 
the  Neilgherry  Todas,  with  its  exclusion  of  women,  and  its  rude 
ornamentation  of  crescents,  circles,  and  triangles,  was  at  once  iden- 
tified with  the  "  old  religion  of  the  world  whose  vestiges  survive 
among  all  people."  But  these  are  themes  unfit  for  an  "  entered 
apprentice. '  Mr.  Little  corroborated  concerning  the  Prairie  In- 
dians and  the  Yutas  what  is  said  of  the  settled  tribes,  namely,  that 
the  comforts  of  civilization  tend  to  their  destruction.  The  men, 
enervated  by  indoor  life  for  half  the  year,  are  compelled  at  times 
to  endure  sudden  privation,  hardship,  and  fatigue,  of  which  the 
results  are  rheumatism,  consumption," and  fatal  catarrhs.  Yet  he 
believed  that  the  "valleys  of  Ephraim"  would  yet  be  full  of  them. 
He  spoke  freely  of  the  actualities  and  prospects  of  Mormonism. 
My  companions  asserted  with  truth  that  there  is  not  among  their 
number  a  single  loafer,  rich  or  poor,  an  idle  gentleman  or  a  lazy 
vagabond,  a  drunkard  or  a  gambler,  a  beggar  or  a  prostitute. 
Those  honorable  professions  are  membered  by  the  Gentiles,  They 
boasted,  indeed,  of  what  is  sometimes  owned  by  their  enemies 
that  there  are  fewer  robberies,  murders,  arsons,  and  rapes  in  Utah 
than  in  any  other  place  of  equal  population  in  the  world.  They 
held  that  the  laws  of  the  United  States  are  better  adapted  to  se- 
cure the  happiness  of  a  small  community  than  to  consolidate  the 
provinces  of  a  continent  into  one  huge  empire,  and  they  looked 
confidently  forward  to  the  spread  of  Mormonism  over  the  world. 
They  claimed  for  themselves,  like  other  secessionists,  "  le  droit  sa- 
ere  crinsurrccdon,"  against  which  in  vain  the  Grentiles  raged  and 
the  federal  government  devised  vain  things.  They  declared  them- 
selves to  be  the  salt  of  the  Union,  and  that  in  the  fullness  of  time 
they  shall  break  the  republic  in  pieces  like  a  potter's  vessel.  Of 
Washington,  Jefferson,  and  the  other  sages  of  the  Revolution  they 
speak  with  all  respect,  describing  them  as  instruments  in  the  hand 
of  the  Almighty,  and  as  Latter-Day  Saints  in  will  if  not  in  deed. 
I  was  much  pleased  by  their  tolerance;  but  tolerance  in  the  West 
is  rather  the  effect  of  climate  and  occupation  than  of  the  reason- 
ing faculty.  Gentiles  have  often  said  before  mo  that  Mormonism 
is  as  good  as  any  other  religion,  and  that  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  "  had 
as  good  a  right  to  establish  a  Cliurch  as  Luther,  Calvin,  Fox, 
Wesley,  or  even  bluff  King  Hal."  The  ]\[ormons  are  certainly 
the  least  fanatical  of  our  faiths,  owning,  like  Hindoos,  that  every 
man  should  walk  his  own  way,  while  claiming  for  themselves  su- 
iieriority  in  belief  and  polities.  At  Nauvoo  they  are  said  to  iiave 
been  puffed  up  by  the  rapid  growth  of  their  power,  and  to  have 
been  presumptuous,  haughty,  insolent,  and  overbearing;  to  have 


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WIBSTIR.N  Y    MJSO 

(7»6)  •73-4503 


852 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VHI. 


Chap.  VIII. 


assumed  a  jurisdiction  independent  of,  and  sometimes  hostile  to, 
the  nine  counties  around  them  and  to  the  States;  to  have  attached 
penalties  to  speaking  evil  of  the  Prophet;  and  to  have  denied 
the  validitj^  of  legal  documents,  unless  countersigned  by  him  who 
■was  also  mayor  and  general.  They  are  certainly  changed  for  the 
better  in  these  days.  With  respect  to  their  future  views,  the  anti- 
Mormons  assert  that  Saints  have  now  been  driven  to  the  end  of 
their  tether,  and  must  stand  to  fight  or  deliver;  that  the  new 
Territory  of  Nevada  will  presently  be  a  fatal  rival  to  ihem ;  that 
the  States  will  no  longer  tolerate  this  theocratic  despotism  in  the 
bosom  of  a  democracy ;  and  that  presently  they  must  be  wiped 
out.  The  Mormons  already  tiiscern  the  dawning  of  a  brighter 
day.  In  the  reaction  which  has  taken  plaf'-e  in  their  favor  they 
fear  no  organized  attack  by  the  United  States  on  account  of  lobby 
influence  at  Washington,  and  the  vis  inertkn  inherent  in  so  slow 
and  unwieldy  a  body  as  the  federal  government.  They  count 
upon  secession,  quoting  a  certain  proverb  touching  conjunctures 
when  honest  men  come  in.  They  believe  tha.t  the  supernatural 
aid  of  God,  plus  their  vote,  will  presently  make  them  a  state. 
"  Some  time  this  side  of  the  great  millennium"  they  will  realize 
their  favorite  dream,  restoration  (which  might  indeed  happen  in 
ten  years)  to  their  auondam  Zion — Independence,  Mo.,  the  cen- 
tre of  the  old  terrestrial  Paradise.  Of  this  promised  land  their 
President  said,  with  "something  of  prophetic  strain,"  "while  wa- 
tflr  runs  and  grass  grows,  while  virtue  is  lovely  and  vice  hateful, 
and  while  a  stone  points  out  a  sacred  spot  wlicrc  a  fragment  of 
American  liberty  once  was" — Lord  Macaulay's  well-known  Zea- 
lander  sliall  apparently  take  liis  passage  by  Cunard's— "  I  or  my 
posterity  will  i)lcad  the  cause  of  injured  innocence,  until  Missouri 
makes  atonement  for  all  her  sins,  or  sinks  disgraced,  degraded, 
and  damned  to  hell,  where  the  worm  dioth  not,  and  the  fire  is  not 
quenched."  Then  shall  the  Jews  of  the  Old  World  rebuild  the 
Temple  of  Solomon,  and  the  Jews  of  the  New  World  (the  ^Mor- 
mons)  recover  their  own  Zion.  Go^  and  Magog — that  is  to  say, 
the  kings  of  the  Gentiles — and  their  hosts  shall  rise  up  against 
the  Latter-Day  Saints,  who,  guided  by  a  prophet  that  wields  tho 
sword  of  Laban,  shall  mightily  overthrow  them  at  the  battle  of 
Armageddon.  Then  tlic  spears,  bows,  and  arrows  (probably  an 
abstruse  allusion  to  tho  descendants  of  our  Minies  and  Arm- 
strongs) shall  bo  burned  with  fire  seven  years ;  tho  cartli  and  its 
fullness  shall  bo  theirs,  and  the  long-looked-for  millennium  hIiuU 
como  at  last.  And  as  prophecy  without  date  is  somcnvhat  liable 
to  bo  vague  and  indefinite,  these  great  events  arc  fixed  in  Mr. 
Joseph  Smith's  Autobiograpliy  for  tho  year  of  grace  i8<J0.  Mean- 
time they  can  retire,  if  forbidden  the  Saskatchewan  Ri.  --r  and 
Vanco\ivcr'a  Island,  to  tho  rich  "  minerales"  in  "  Sonora  of  tho 
Gold  Mountains." 

On  tho  morning  of  tho  next  day,  Sunday,  tUo  10th  of  Septcm- 


Chap.  VIII.    THE  "GAUGE  OF  PHILOSOPHY. "-MISSIONARIES.     853 

ber,  we  mounted  and  rode  slowly  on.    I  had  neglected  to  take 
leggins    and  the  loss  of  cuticle  and  cutis  was  deplorable     Once 
at  the  labernacle  was  enough:  on  this  occasion,  however  non-at- 
tendance was  a  mistake.     There  had  been  a  little  "  miff"  between 
Mr.  President  and  the  "Gauge  of  Philosophy,"  Mr.  0  Pratt     The 
latter  gentleman,  who  is  also  an  apostle,  is  a  highly  though  prob- 
ably a  self-educated  man,  not,  as  is  stated  in  an  English  work  a 
graduate  of  Trinity  College,  Dublin.     The  Usman  of  the  New 
J^aith,  writer,  preacher,  theologian,  missionary,  astronomer,  philos- 
opher, and  mathematician— especially  in  the  higher  branches— he 
has  thrust  thought  into  a  faith  of  ceremony  which  is  supposed  to 
dispense  with  the  trouble  of  thinking,  and  has  intrudeThuman 
learning  into  a  scheme  whose  essence  is  the  utter  abrogation  of 
the  individual  will.    He  is  consequently  suspected  of  too  much 
learning;  of  relying,  m  fact,  rather  upon  books  and  mortal  paper 
than  that  royal  road  to  all  knowledge,  inspiration  from  on  ligh 
and  his  tendencies  to  let  loose  these  pernicious  doctrines  often 
bnng  him  into  trouble  and  nlace  him  below  his  position.    In  his 
excellent  discourse  delivered  to-day  he  had  declared  the  poverty 
of  the  Mormons,  and  was  speedily  put  down  by  Mr,  Brirham 
Young,  who  boasted  the  Saints  to  be  the  wealthiest  (i  e.,  in  good 
works  and  post-obit  prospects)  people  in  the  world.    I  had  tried 
my  best  to  have  the  pleasure  of  half  an  hour's  conversation  with 
the  (jauge,  who,  however,  for  reasons  unknown  to  me,  declined 
At  the  same  meeting  Mr.  Hebcr  C.  Kimball  solemnly  consigned 
to  a  hotter  place  than  the  tropics  Messrs.  Bell  and  Livingston,  the 
cause  being  their  supposed  complicity  in  bringing  in  the  federal 
troops.    I  write  it  with  regret,  but  both  of  these  gentlemen,  when 
the  sad  tidings  were  communicated  to  them,  showed  a  quasi-Pha- 
raonic  hardening  of  the  carnal  heart.    A  measure,  however,  was 
on  this  occasion  initiated,  which  more  than  compensated  for  these 
small  ridicules.     To  the  present  date  missionaries  were  sent  forth, 
to  Canton  even,  or  Kurrachco,  like  the  apostles  of  Judea,  working 
their  passages  and  supporting  themselves  by  handiwork ;  being 
wholly  without  purse  or  scrip,  baggage  or  salary,  they  left  tlicii- 
business  to  languish,  and  their  families  to  want.     When  man  has 
no  coin  of  his  own,  lie  is  naturally  disposed  to  put  his  hand  into 
his  neighbor's  nockct,  and  the  greediness  of  a  few  unprincipled 
propagandists,  despite  the  prohibitions  of  the  Prophet,  had  caused 
a  scandal  by  the  riclincss  of  tlioir  "plunder."    A  new  ordinance 
was  therefore  issued  to  the  thirty  new  nominees.*     The  mission- 

*  Ttio  following  in  n  ropy  of  tlio  elder's  cprtiflcnte,  offlciolly  signed  by  the  presi- 
<lent  ond  his  two  councilors,  iiiul  sui)|)liod  to  flio  dopnrtinR  missionaiy : 
"  To  iiU  I 'ergons  to  whom  thin  iMtei-  shall  come: 

"This  certiflps  thnt  the  l>omx>r,  Kldor  A,  D,,  is  in  full  faith  and  fellorsliip  will, 
thn  riiurih  of  .Tcsns  Christ  of  Lnttcr-Day  Snint^  nnd  liy  the  gencrnl  nutlioritics  ol 
HRitl  Church  Ims  in'on  duly  ni^iointcd  n  mission  to  Liverpool  to  preach  the  Gospel, 
and  ndministor  in  nil  the  ordinances  thon-of  jHTtnininR  to  his  offlco. 

"And  wo  invito  all  men  to  give  heed  to  \m  teachings  nnd  couniiols  as  u  man  of 


i      . 

1  I . 


!  ■■i'.*i 


■\ 


Ml 

m 


354 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  VIH. 


aries  were  forbidden  to  take  from  their  converts,  and  in  compen- 
dation  they  would  receive  regular  salaries,  for  which  funds  were 
to  be  collected  in  the  several  wards.  On  the  same  evening  I  was 
informed  a  single  ward,  the  13th,  subscribed  $3000.  That  Sun- 
day was  an  important  day  to  myself  also ;  I  posted  a  "  sick  cer- 
tificate," advising  extension  of  leave  for  six  months,  signed  by  W. 
F.  Anderson,  M.D.,  of  the  University  of  Maryland.  It  was  not 
wholly  en  rhgh;  it  required  two  signatures  and  the  counter-signa- 
ture of  H.  B.  M.'s  consul  to  affirm  that  the  signatures  were  bond 
fide,  not  "bogus."  But  the  signer  was  the  only  M.D.  in  the  place, 
H.  B.  M.'s  nearest  consul  was  distant  about  600  ;  ..i^es,  and  to  sug- 
gest that  a  gentleman  may  be  quietly  forging  or  falsifying  his  sig- 
nature is  to  incur  an  unjustifiable  personal  risk  in  the  Far  West. 
Still  bent  upon  collecting  the  shells  of  the  Basin,  I  accepted  Mr. 

S 's  offer  of  being  my  guide  to  Ensign  Peak,  where  they  are 

said  to  be  found  in  the  greatest  number.  Our  route  lay  through 
the  broken  wall  which  once  guarded  the  land  against  Lemuel, 
and  we  passed  close  by  the  large  barn-like  building  called  the 
Arsenal,  where  the  military  school  will  also  be.  Motives  of  deli- 
cacy prevented  my  asking  questions  concerning  the  furniture  of 
the  establishment.  Anti-Mormons,  however,  whisper ihat  it  con- 
tains cannon,  mortars,  and  other  large-scaled  implements  of  de- 
struction, prepared,  of  course,  for  treasonable  purposes.  The  Ar- 
senal naturally  led  us  into  conversation  concerning  the  Nauvoo 
Legion,  the  Mormon  Battalion,  the  Danite  band,  and  other  things 
military,  of  which  the  reader  may  not  be  undesirous  of  knowing 

•'  some." 

The  Nauvoo  Legion  was  organized  in  1840,  and  was  made  to 
include  all  male  Saints  between  the  ages  of  sixteen  and  fifty.  Li 
1842  it  numbered  2000  men,  well  officered,  uniformed,  armed, 
and  drilled.  It  now  may  amount  throughout  the  Territory  to 
gOOO— 8000  men:  the  IJtah  militia,  however,  is  officially  laid 
down  in  the  latest  returns  at  2821.  In  case  of  war,  it  would  be 
assisted  by  30,000  or  40,000  Indian  warriors.  The  Legion  is  com- 
manded by  a  lieutenant  general,  at  present  Mr.  Daniel  C.  Wells, 
the  Martin  Ilofer  of  this  Western  Tyrol ;  the  major  general  is 
Mr.  C.  1).  Grant,  who,  in  case  of  vacancy,  takes  command.  The 
lieutenant  general  is  elected  by  a  majority  of  the  commissioned 
officers,  and  is  then  commissioned  by  the  governor :  he  organizes 
the  Legion  into  divisions,  brigades,  regiments,  battalions,  compa- 
nies, and  districts:  his  staff,  besides  heads  of  departments— adju- 
tant, commissary  quarter-master,  paymaster,  and  surgeon  general 

Ooil,  iicnt  to  open  to  them  the  door  of  life  and  salvation,  and  assist  liim  in  his  trav- 
els, in  whatsoever  things  ho  may  need. 

"And  we  pray  God,  t'.io  Eternal  Father,  to  bless  Elder  A.  B.,  and  all  who  receive 
him  and  minister  to  his  comfort,  with  the  l)le»iiiiiKi*  of  licuvcn  and  earth,  for  time  and 
for  nil  eternity,  in  the  name  of  Jesus  (^hrist ;   Amen. 

"  Si^'ned  at  Groat  Salt  Lake  City,  Tcrritorj  of  Utah, ,  180-,  in  behalf  of  said 

Church." 


Chap.  VIII, 


THE  NAUVOO  LEGION.-GBANTS. 


355 


—consists  of  three  aids  and  two  topographical  engineers  with  the 
rank  of  colonel,  a  military  secretary  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant 
colonel,  and  two  chaplains.     The  present  adjutant  general  is  Mr 
William  lerguson,  one  of  the  few  Irish  Saints,  originally  sergeant- 
major  in  the  Mormon  battalion,  who,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Western  world,  combines  with  the  soldier  the  lawyer  and  the 
editor.     Tne  minutest  directions  are  issued  to  the  Legion  in  "An 
Act  to  provide  for  the  farther  Organization  of  the  Militia  of  the 
rerritory  of  Utah  (Territorial  Laws,  chap.  35),  and  it  is  divided 
into  military  districts  as  below.*    There  is,  moreover,  an  inde- 
pendent battalion  of  Life  Guards  in  Great  Salt  Lake  County  not 
at  ached  to  any  brigade  or  division,  but  subject  at  all  times  to  the 
call  of  the  governor  and  lieutenant  general.     There   are  also 
mmute-men,  picked  fighters,  ready  to  mount,  at  a  few  minutes' 
notice,  upon  horses  that  range  near  the  Jordan,  and  to  take  the 
held  in  pursuit  of  Indians  or  others,  under  their  commandant 
colonel  Burton.     These  corps  form  the  nuclei  of  what  will  be 
after  two  generations,  formidable  armies.    The  increase  of  Saintly 
population  IS  rapid,  and  from  their  childhood  men  are  trained  to 
arms:  each  adult  has  a  rifle  and  a  sabre,  a  revolver  and  a  bowie- 
kni  e  and  he  wants  only  practice  to  become  a  good,  efficient,  and 
well-disciplined  soldier.     Grants  amounting  to  a  total  of  $5000 
have  at  different  times  been  ap^-.tioned  to  military  purposes 
buildings,  mounting  ordnance,  and  schools :  Gentiles  declare  that 
It  was  required  for  education,  but  I  presume  that  the  Mormons 
ike  most  people,  claim  to  know  their  own  affixirs  best.     As  in  the 
land  of  Liberty  generally,  there  is  a  modified  conscription;  "all 
tree  male  citizens' '—with  a  fjw  dignified  exceptions  and  exempts 
—are  subject  to  soldier's  duty  within  thirty  days  after  their  ar- 
rival at  any  military  district  in  the  Territory. 

♦  There  arc  eleven  oripinnlly  established,  viz. : 

Ist.  The  Grent  Salt  Lake  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the 
boundaries  of  Great  Walt  Lake  City. 

2(1.  Tiie  Davis  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the  limits  of 
Davis  County. 

8d.  The  Weber  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the  limits  of 
Weber  County. 

4th.  The  Western  Jordan  Military  District  shall  include  nil  the  militia  in  Great 
halt  Lake  County  west  of  the  Jordan  Uivcr. 

flth.  The  Tooele  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the  limits  of 
Tooolo  County. 

6th.  The  Cotton-wood  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  in  Great  Salt 
Lake  County  south  of  the  south  line  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City  and  cost  of  the  Jordan 
Itiver.  ' 

7th.  The  Utah  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  in  Utah  County 
8th.    riio  San  I'lie  Military  District  shall  include  oil  the  militia  within  the  limits 
of  San  rote  County.  . 

/!'.'•;,  '^''"'^1'"'"<'V"»  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the  limits 
of  Millard  County. 

10th.  The  Iron  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the  limits  of 
Iron  C  ounty. 

Ilth.  The  Green  River  Military  District  shall  include  all  the  militia  within  the 
limits  of  Green  Ilivcr  County. 


i   ■ 


'''M 


' '  *  (I 


356 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  Vm. 


That  the  Mormon  battalion  did  good  service  in  the  Mexican 
War  of  1847  is  a  matter  of  history.  It  was  sent  at  a  most  critical 
conjuncture.  Application  was  made  to  the  Saints,  when  upon  the 
point  of  commencing  their  exodus  from  Egypt,  through  the  deserts 
of  Paran  and  Sin,  where  the  red  Amalekite  and  the  Moabite  lay 
in  wait  to  attack  them,  and  when  every  male  was  wanted  to  de- 
fend the  old  and  sick,  the  women  and  children,  and  the  valuables 
of  which  the  Egyptian  had  not  despoiled  them.  Yet  the  present 
Prophet  did  not  hesitate  to  obey  the  call :  he  sent  off  500  of  his 
best  men,  who  fought  through  the  war  and  shared  m  the  tnumph. 
Providence  rewarded  them.  It  was  a  Mormon— James  W.  Mar- 
shall—who, when  discharged  from  service,  entered  with  some  com- 
rades the  service  of  a  Swiss  land-owner,  Captain  Suter— a  rem- 
nant of  Charles  X.'s  guard— near  Sacramento,  on  the  American 
River,  and  who,  in  Jaruary,  1848,  when  sinking  a  mill-run  or 
water-run,  discovered  th?  shining  metal  which  first  made  Califor- 
nia a  household  word.  Ou  the  return  of  the  battalion  to  Great 
Salt  Lake  City,  laden  with  nearly  half  a  million  of  gold,  a  mint 
was  established,  and  a  $5  piece  was  added  to  the  one  million  dol- 
lars which  forms  the  annual  circulation  of  the  United  States.  It 
bears  on  the  reverse,  "  Holiness  to  the  Lord,"  surmounting  a 
three-cornered  cap,  placed  over  a  single  eye :  the  former  alludes, 
I  was  told,  mystically  to  the  first  Presidency ;  the  obverse  having 
two  hands  clasped  over  the  date  (1849),  and  the  words  "Five 
Dolhrs,  G.  S.  L.  C.  P.  G."  The  $5  appeared  somewhat  heavier, 
though  smaller  than  an  English  sovereign.  Anti-Mormons  ad- 
duce this  coinage  as  an  additional  proof  of  saintly  presumption; 
but  it  was  legally  done:  a  Territory  may  not  stamp  precious 
metal  with  the  federal  arms,  but  it  has  a  right  to  establish  its  own. 
They  adduce,  moreover,  a  severe  charge,  namely,  that  the  $5  piece 
was  15-20  per  cent,  under  weight,  and  yet  was  forcibly  made 
current.  One  remarkable  effect  the  gold  certainlv  had.  When 
the  Kirtland  Safety  Savings  Bank,  established  bv  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith  in  February,  1831,  broke,  he  stout-heartedly  prophesied 
that  before  twenty  years  should  elapse  the  worthless  paper  should 
be  again  at  par.  The  financial  vaticination  was  true  to  the  let- 
ter.* 

*  The  Mormons  qnoto  two  othor  prophecies  Iwth  equally  offensive  to  the  United 
States,  and  l>otli  equally  well  known.  .     ,    ,      j  .    .. 

On  the  2(!th  of  April,  1843,  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  distinctly  declared,  m  the  name 
of  the  Lord,  that  before  the  arrival  of  tlie  S<in  of  Man  tlie  "question  of  nluvcry 
would  cause  a  rebellion  in  South  Carolina."  and  effect  a  "division  of  the  Southen. 
against  the  Northern  States."  It  was  a  calamity  easy  to  be  foreseen,  but  wc  ook 
with  anxiety  to  the  unfulfilled  portion,  the  "terrible  bloodshed"  winch  will  result 

In  1H4(;,  when,  humaillv  speakinft,  want  and  destitution  stared  the  Samts  in  the 
face,  Mr.  Uriffham  Younx  "predicted  that  within  five  years  they  would  l)c  wealthier 
than  iK-forc.  This  was  palpably  fulfilled  in  184ft,  when  the  passage  of  emiRrants  to 
California  cnal>lcd  the  Saints  to  exchange  ihoir  supplies  of  food  for  Roods  and  valu- 
ables at  enormous  profits.  .    ,   i  .       i  .  .  „(• 

I  commend  these  "uninspired  prophecier"  to  the  stmple-mmded  translator  of 
"Forewamings,  Prophecies  on  the  Church,  Antichrist  (who  was  born,  wo  are  tolU, 


Chap.  VHI.        THE  DANITE  BAND.— THE  JEBEL  NUR. 


359 


The  "  Danite  band,"  a  name  of  fear  in  the  Mississippi  Valley, 
is  said  by  anti-Mormons  to  consist  of  men  between  the  ages  of 
seventeen  and  forty-nine.    They  were  originally  termed  Daugh- 
ters of  Gideon,  Destroying  Angels— the  Gentiles  say  Devils— 
and,  finally.  Sons  of  Dan,  or  Danites,  from  one  of  whom  it  was 
prophesied  that  he  should  be  a  serpent  in  the  path.    They  were 
organized  about  1837,  under  D.  W.  Patten,  popularly  called  Cap- 
tarn  Fearnot,  for  the  purpose  of  dealing  as  avengers  of  blood  with 
Gentiles ;  in  fact,  they  formed  a  kind  of  "  Death  Society,"  Des- 
peradoes, Thugs,  Hashshashiyun— in  plain  English,  assassins  in 
the  name  of  the  Lord.     The  Mormons  declare  categorically  the 
whole  and  every  particular  to  be  the  calumnious  invention  of  the 
impostor  and  arch  apostate  Mr.  John  C.  Bennett,  whilom  mayor 
of  Nauvoo ;  that  the  mystery  and  horror  of  the  idea  made  it 
equally  grateful  to  the  knave  and  fool  who  persecuted  them,  and 
that  not  a  trader  could  be  scalped,  nor  a  horse-stealer  shot,  nor  a 
notorious  villain  of  a  Gentile  knived  without  the  deed  of  blood 
being  attributed  to  Danite  hands  directed  by  prophetic  heads. 
It  was  supposed  that  the  Danites  assume  savage  disguises :  "  he 
has  met  the  Indians"  was  a  proverbial  phrase,  meaning  that  a 
Gentile  has  fallen  into  the  power  of  the  destroying  angels.    I  but 
express  the  opinion  of  sensible  and  moderate  neutrals  in  disbe- 
lieving the  existence  of  an  organized  band  of  "  Fidawi ;"  where 
every  man  is  ready  to  be  a  Danite,  Danites  are  not  wanting.    Cer- 
tainly, in  the  terrible  times  of  Missouri  and  Illinois,  destroying 
angels  were  required  to  smite  secretly,  mysteriously,  and  terribly 
the  first-born  of  Egypt ;  now  the  necessity  has  vanished.     This, 
however,  the  Mormons  deny,  declaring  the  existence  of  the  Dan- 
ites, like  that  of  spiritual  wives,  to  be,  and  ever  to  have  been,  lit- 
erally and  in  substance  totally  and  entirely  untrue. 

Meanwhile  we  had  nearly  ascended  the  Jebel  Nur  of  this  new 
Meccah,  the  big  toe  of  the  Wasach  Mountains,  and  exchanged  the 
sunny  temperature  below  for  a  cold  westerly  wind,  that  made  us 
feel  snow:  the  air  improved  in  purity,  as  we  could  judge  by  the 
effects  of  carcasses  lying  at  different  heights.  The  bench  up  which 
we  trod  was  gashed  by  broad  ravines,  and  bore  upon  its  red  soil 
a  growth  of  thin  sage  and  sunflower.  A  single  fossil  and  two 
varieties  of  shells  were  found :  iron  and  quartz  were  scattered 
over  the  surface,  and  there  is  a  legend  of  gold  having  been  dis- 
covered here.  Presently,  standing  upon  the  topmost  bluff,  we  sat 
down  to  enjoy  a  view  which  I  have  attempted  to  reproduce  in  a 
sketch.  Below  the  bench  lay  the  dot-like  houses  of  Zion.  Wo 
could  see  with  bird's-eye  glance  the  city  laid  out  like  a  chess- 
board, and  all  the  length  and  breadth  of  its  bee-line  streets  and 

four  years  ago),  and  Revelations  in  the  Last  Times."  Messrs.  Smith  and  Young's 
vatieinations  will  be  found  quite  as  respectable  as  the  "Visions  of  an  Aged  Nun" 
and  the  "Predictions  of  Sister  Rosa  Columba."  Prophecy,  being  the  highest  aim 
of  human  induction,  is  apparently  universally  and  equally  diffused. 


360 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  Vm. 


crow-flight  avenues,  wliich,  bordered  by  distance-dwarfed  trees, 
narrowed  to  threads  as  they  drew  toward  a  vanishing  point.  Be- 
yond the  suburbs  stretched  the  valley  plain,  sprinkled  with  little 
Elantations  clustering  round  the  smaller  settlements,  and  streaked 
y  the  rivulets  which,  arising  from  the  frowning  pine-clad  heights 
on  the  left,  flowed  toward  the  little  Jordan  of  this  young  Judea  on 
the  right.  The  extreme  south  was  bounded  by  the  denticulated 
bench  which  divided  like  a  mole  the  valleys  of  the  Great  Salt  and 
Utah  Lakes.  Already  autumn  had  begun :  the  purpling  plain  and 
golden  slopes  shed  a  dying  glory  over  the  departing  year,  while 
the  mellowing  light  of  evening,  and  aerial  blue  from  above,  toned 
down  to  absolute  beauty  each  harsher  feature  of  the  scene. 

After  lingering  for  a  while  over  the  fair  coup  d^oeil,  we  descend- 
ed, holding  firm  the  sage-bushes,  the  abrupt  western  slope,  and  we 
passed  by  the  warm  Harrowgate  spring,  with  its  sulphury  blue 
waters,'white  lime-like  bed,  and  rushy  margins  in  dark  earth,  snow- 
capped with  salt  efflorescence.  As  we  entered  the  city  we  met  a 
noted  Gentile  innocently  driving  out  a  fair  Saint:  both  averted 
their  faces  as  they  passed  us,  but  my  companion's  color  darkened. 
All  races  have  their  pet  prohibitions  and  aversions,  their  likes  and 
dishkes  in  matters  of  sin.  Among  the  Mormons,  a  suspicion  of 
immorality  is  more  hateful  than  the  reputation  of  bloodshed.  So 
horse-thieving  in  the  Western  States  is  a  higher  crime  than  any 
other — in  fact,  the  sin  which  is  never  forgiven.  An  editor  thus 
unconcernedly  sums  up  the  history  of  one  lately  shot  when  plun- 
dering stock :  "  lie  was  buried  by  those  who  meted  out  to  him 
summary  justice,  not  exactly  attending  to  law,  but  upon  a  more 
speedy,  economical,  and  salutary  principle,  stnd  a  stake  was  placed 
at  the  head  of  his  grave,  on  which  was  inscribed  'A.  B.  B — — , 
shot  for  horse-stealing,  July  1,  I860.' " 

Entering  the  city  by  the  northwest,  we  passed  the  Academy  of 
the  7th  Ward.  Standing  in  a  10-acre  block,  it  is  a  large  adobe 
building  with  six  windows,  built  for  a  hotel,  and  bought  for  edu- 
cational purposes  by  the  Prophet.  Forms  and  tables,  scattered 
with  the  usual  school-books,  were  the  sole  furniture,  and  the  doors 
were  left  open  as  if  they  had  nothing  to  defend.  My  companion 
had  a  truly  brotherly  way  of  treating  his  co-religionists ;  he  never 
met  one,  however  surly -looking,  without  a  salute,  and  when  a  door 
was  opened  he  usually  walked  in.  Thus  we  visited  successively 
a  water-power-mill,  a  tannery,  and  an  English  coachmakcr,  paint- 
er, and  varnisher.  Some  of  the  houses  which  we  passed  were 
neat  and  cleanly  curtained,  especially  that  belonging  to  an  En- 
glishwoman whose  husband.  Captain  R ,  had  lately  left  her  in 

widowhood.  We  finished  with  the  garden  of  Apostle  Woodrufl', 
who  introduced  us  to  his  wife,  and  showed  us  work  of  whicli  he 
had  reason  to  be  proud.  Despite  the  hard,  ungrateful  soil  which 
had  required  irrigation  for  the  last  ten  years,  there  were  apricots 
from  Malta,  the  Uooker  strawberries,  here  worth  $5  the  plant, 


Chap.  IX. 


CEMETERY.— THE  WORD  "MORMON." 


861 


plum-trees  from  Kew  Gardens,  French  and  Californian  grapes, 
wild  plum  and  buffalo  berrv,  black  currants,  peaches,  and  apples 
—with  which  last  we  were  hospitably  loaded— in  numbers  The 
kitchen  garden  contained  rhubarb,  peas,  potatoes,  Irish  and  sweet 
asparagus,  white  and  yellow  carrots,  cabbages,  and  huge  beets  ■ 
the  sugar-qane  had  been  tried  there,  but  it  was  not,  like  the  sweet 
holcus,  a  success. 

The  last  time  I  walked  out  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City  was  to  see 
the  cemetery,  which  lies  on  the  bench  to  the  northeast  of  the  set- 
tlement. There  is  but  one  cemetery  for  saint  and  sinner,  and  it 
has  been  prudently  removed  about  three  miles  from  the  abodes 
ot  the  living.  The  tombs,  like  the  funeral  ceremonies,  are  simple, 
lacking  the  "  monumental  mockery"  which  renders  the  country 
church-yard  m  England  a  fitter  study  for  farce  than  for  elegy. 
On  occasions  of  death,  prayers  are  offered  in  the  house,  and  the 
corpse  IS  carried  at  once  to  its  last  home.  The  grave-yard  is  wall- 
ed round^  and  contains  a  number  of  occupants,  the  tombs  being 
denoted  by  a  stone  or  board,  with  name  and  date,  and  sometimes 
a  religious  sentence,  at  the  head  and  foot. 


CUAPTER  IX. 

Latter-Day  Saints — Of  the  Mormon  Religion. 

No  less  an  authority  than  Alexander  von  Humboldt  has  char- 
acterized positive  religions  in  general  as  consisting  of  an  historical 
novelette  more  or  less  interesting,  a  system  of  cosmogony  more  or 
less  improbable,  and  a  code  of  morals  mostly  pure.*  Two  thirds 
of  this  description  apply  to  the  faith  of  the  Latter-Day  Saints- 
they  have,  however,  escaped  palaiological  criticism  by  adopting 
Genesitic  history,  and  by  "  swallowing  Eve's  apple"  in  the  in&ncv 
or  their  spiritual  life.  "^ 

Before  oroceeding  to  comment  upon  the  New  Dispensation— 
for  such,  though  not  claiming  or  owning  to  be,  it  is~l  may  com- 
pare the  two  leading  interpretations  of  the  word  "Mormon,"  which 
as  has  been  well  remarked,!  truly  convey  the  widely  diverging 
opinions  of  the  opposers  and  supporters  of  Mormonism.  Mormon 
W/iOiv)  signifies  literally  a  lamia,  a  maniola,  a  female  spectre; 

he  mandril,  for  its  ugliness,  was  called  Cynocephalus  mormon. 

Mormon     according  to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith's  Mormonic,  or  rather 
rantagruelic  interpretation,  is  the  best— sc«?.,  of  mankind.     » "We 

aisUnto^^)n^thT°/"'^'''"  °^  "'°""'!  •''^  '••-'>'''''""«  P««i«^««  off'«nt  trois  parties 
stinctos;  im  traito  do  m.Burs  partout  le  mume  et  tr&s  p,ir,  «n  revo  KcoloRioue  et 

™UttorKXi:i84f""'^""  '°^ 

iTnif'^^L^^^'T""'  "'  fin«c';;r>«y  Saints,  by  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Gunnison  of  the 
United  (states  Topograpliical  Engineers,     riiiladelpliia,  1852. 


•i". 

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362 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


say  from  the  Saxon  good,  the  Dane  god,  the  Goth  goder,  the  Ger- 
man gut,  the  Dutch  goed,  the  Latin  hoyius,  the  Greek  kalos,  the  He- 
brew tab,  and  the  Egyptian  mon.  Hence,  with  the  addition  of 
More,  or  the  contraction  Mor,  we  have  the  word  Mormon,  which 
means  Hterally  "  more  good."  By  faith  it  is  said  man  can  remove 
mountains :  perhaps  it  will  also  enable  him  to  believe  in  the  spirit 
of  that  philology  that  revealed  unto  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  his  deriva- 
tion, and  rendered  it  a  shibboleth  to  his  followers.  This  is  not 
the  place  to  discuss  a  subject  so  broad  and  so  long,  but  perhaps— 
the  idea  will  suggest  itself — the  mind  of  man  most  loves  those  er- 
rors and  delusions  into  which  it  has  become  self-persuaded,  and  i.s 
most  fanatic  concerning  the  irrationalities  and  the  supernaturali- 
ties  to  which  it  has  bowed  its  own  reason. 

Unaccountably  enough,  seeing  that  it  means  "  more  good,"  scil., 
the  best  of  mankind,  the  word  Mormon  is  distasteful  to  its  dis- 
ciples, who  look  upon  it  as  Jew  by  a  Hebrew,  Mohammedan  by  a 
Mx>slem,  and  Romanist  or  Puseyite  by  the  sectarian  Christian. 
They  prefer  to  be  called  Latter-Day  Saints,  or,  to  give  them  their 
title  in  full,  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints,  in 
contradistinction  to  the  Former-Day  Saints.  Latter  Day  alludes 
to  the  long-looked-for  convulsion  that  will  end  the  present  qui- 
escent geologic  epoch.  Its  near  approach  has  ever  been  a  favor- 
ite dogma  and  improvement  subject  of  the  Christian  Church,  from 
the  time  of  St.  Paul  to  that  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  and  Drs.  Wolfl" 
and  Cumming  ;*  for  who,  inquires  Panurgc,  "  is  able  to  tell  if  the 
world  shall  last  yet  three  years  ?"  Others  read  it  as  a  prophecy 
that  "  Gentilism,'"'  alias  "  the  corrupted  Christianity  of  the  age,"  is 
"on  its  last  legs."  Even  as  "Saints"  is  a  term  which  has  been 
applied  from  time  immemorial  in  the  Apocalypse  and  elsewhere 
to  the  orthodox,  i.  e.,  those  of  one's  own  doxy,  and  as  Enoch  speaki< 
of  "  saints"  before  the  Flood  or  Noachian  cataclysm,  so  the  honor- 
able title  has  in  these  days  been  appropriated  by  seers,  revelators, 
and  prophets,  and  conferred  upon  the  Lord's  chosen  people,  i.e., 
themselves  and  their  followers.  According  to  anti-Mormons,  the 
name  Latter-Day  Saints  was  assumed  in  1835  by  the  !Mormons  at 
the  suggestion  of  Sidney  Rigdon. 

Before  beginning  a  description  of  what  Mormonism  really  is,  I 
would  succinctly  lay  down  a  few  positions  illustrating  its  genesis. 

1.  The  religious  as  well  as  the  social  history  of  the  progressive 
Anglo-Saxon  race  is  a  succession  of  contrasts,  a  system  of  reac- 
tions ;  at  times  retrogressive,  it  has  a  general  onward  tendency  to- 
ward an  unknown  development.  The  Unitarians  of  New  En- 
gland, for  instance,  arose  out  of  Calvinism.  The  Puritanism  of 
the  present  generation  is  the  natural  consequence  of  the  Ration- 
alism which  preceded  it. 

2.  In  what  a  French  author  terms  "le  triste  dtat  dc  dissolution 

♦  The  Mormon  Prophet  fixed  "the  end  of  the  world"  for'A-D.  1890;  Dr.  Ciim- 
raing,  I  iMilicvc,  in  1870. 


Chap.  IX. 


THE  MORMON  ELEMENT.— STATISTICS. 


863 


dans  lequel  git  le  Chrdtientd  de  nos  jours"— the  splitting  of  the 
Church  into  three  grand  diyisions,  Koman,  Greek,  and  Eastern 
the  convulsion  of  the  Northern  mind,  which  created  Protestant- 
ism, and  the  minute  subdivision  of  the  latter  into  Episcopalians 
and  Presbyterians,  Lutherans  and  Calvinists,  Quakers  and  Shak- 
ers, the  multiform  Methodists  and  various  Baptists,  and,  to  quote 
no  farther  varikes  des  eglises,  the  Congregationalists,  Unitarians, 
and  Universalists  —  a  rationalistic  race  finds  reason  to  inquire^ 
"  What  is  Christianity  ?"  and  holds  itself  prepared  for  a  new  faith' 
a  regeneration  of  human  thought  — in  fact,  a  religious  and  social 
change,  such  as  the  Eeforraation  of  the  sixteenth  century  repre- 
sented and  fondly  believed  itself  to  be.* 

3.  Mormonism  boasts  of  few  Roman  Catholic  or  Greek  con- 
verts ;  the  French  and  Italians  arc  rare,  and  there  is  a  remarkable 
deficiency  of  Germans  and  Irisl  — those  wretched  races  without 
nationality  or  loyalty — which  have  overrun  the  Eastern  Ameri- 
can States.  It  is,  then,  to  Protestantism  that  we  must  look  for  the 
origin  of  the  New  Faith. 

4.  In  1800-1804,  and  in  1820,  a  mighty  Wesleyan  "  revival," 
which  in  Methodism  represents  the  missions  and  retreats  of  Ca- 
tholicism, had  disturbed  and  excited  the  public  mind  in  America 
especially  in  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  The  founder  of  Mormon- 
ism, Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  his  present  successor,  and  his  principal  dis- 
ciples and  followers,  were  Campbellites,  Millerites,  Ranters,  or  oth- 
er Methodists.    Wesleyan  sectarianism,  like  the  old  Arab  pagan- 

*    Religious  Denominations  in  the  United  States,  according  to  the  Census  of  18GI. 
(From  the  "  American  Almanac"  of  18G1.) 


DenomiuatioDB. 


o 


Biiptist 

Christian , 

Congregational 

Dutch  Reformed .. 

Episcopal , 

Free 

Friends , 

German  Reformed, 

Jewish 

Lutheran , 

Mennonitc 

Methodist 

Moravian , 

Prcsbj'terian 

Roman  Catholic. ... 

Swcdenborgian 

Tunker , 

Union 

Unitarian 

Univer.salist 

Minor  sects 


Total.... 


8,71)1 
812 

1,674 
32-t 

1,422 

301 

714 

327 

31 

1,203 

110 

12,487 

.331 

4,584 

1,112 
15 
52 
CI  it 
243 
494 
325 


AggregRla     !»=  = 

Acconiiuuda'   1  ^  g-s 

tion.  l>  ^ 


3,130, 
2'(G, 

lol, 

G25, 

108, 

282, 

15G, 

10, 

631, 

29, 

4,209, 

112, 

2,040, 

020, 

5 

35 

213, 

137, 

20; 
11.' 


87d:  350 
0.)0'  305 
177]  475 
980  601 
21.3|440 
005!  300 
823|  390 
932;  479 
575  534 
100  441 


900 
333 
185 


272 
.337 
338 


,3101445 
,950!  558 
070|  338 
075  074 
552  345 
307  505 
402  415 
.347;  354 


30,011113,849,890.384 


Total  Value  of 
Church  Property. 


110,931,382 

84.5,810 

7,973,902 

4,090,730 

11,201,970 

251,255 

1,709,807 

905,880 

371,000 

2,807,880 

94,245 

14,030,071 

44.3,347 

14,,309,889 

8,973,838 

108,100 

40.025 

090,005 

8,208,122 

1,700,015 

741,980 


g  « s 

i  =  a. 

i-    flj    £ 


$1,244 

1,041 

4,703 

12,044 

7,919 

098 

2,39 

2,953 

11,987 

2,383 

856 
1,174 
1,339 
3,135 
8,069 
7,206 

885 

1,114 

13,449 

3,576 

2.283 


$80,410,039, $2, 400 


mn 


\i*i. 


I'h 


1 

•  .  ■ 

'^1  m 

m 

I 

VI 

i  'h  i  ^'.i  4i.-<l 

■ 

■1 

864 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


ism  in  El  Islam,  still  shows  its  traces  in  the  worship  and  various 
observances  of  a  doxology  which  by  literalism  and  exaggeration 
has  wholly  separated  itself  from  the  older  creeds  of  the  world. 
Thus  we  find  Mormonism  to  be  in  its  origin  English,  Protestant, 
anti-Catholic,  Methodistic. 

It  may  be  advisable  briefly  to  trace  the  steps  by  whi';h  we  ar- 
rive at  this  undesirable  end.  The  birth  of  Romanism,  according 
to  the  Reformed  writers,  dates  from  certain  edicts  issued  by  Theo- 
dosius  II.  and  by  Valentinian  III.,  and  constituting  the  Bishop  of 
Rome  "  Rector  of  the  whole  Church."  "The  newly -born  hierarchy 
found  tender  nurses  in  Justinian,  Pepin,  and  Charlemagne,  and  in 
the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century  St.  Gregory  VII.  (Hilde- 
brand  the  Great)  supplied  the  prime  want  of  the  age  by  establish- 
ing a  visible  theocracy,  with  a  vicar  of  Jesus  Christ  at  its  head. 
To  the  existence  of  a  mediatorial  priestly  caste,  the  officials  of  a 
spiritual  despotism,  claiming  power  of  censure  and  excommunica- 
tion, and  the  gift  of  the  crown  terrestrial  as  well  as  celestial,  anti- 
papistical  writers  trace  the  various  vices  and  corruptions  inherent 
m  a  semi-barbarous  age,  the  "  melancholy  duality"  of  faith  and 
works  of  religion  and  morality  which  seems  to  belong  to  the 
Southern  mind,  and  the  Oriental  scmi-Pelagianism  which  taught 
that  man  might  be  self-sanctified  or  vicariously  saved,  with  its 
logical  deductions,  penance,  benefices,  indulgences.  An  excessive 
superstition  endured  for  a  season.  Then  svt  in  the  inevitable  re- 
action :  the  extreme  religiousness,  that  characteristic  of  the  earn- 
est quasi-pagan  age  of  the  Christian  Church,  in  the  fullness  of 
time  fell  into  tlie  opposite  excess.  Rationalism  and  its  natural  con- 
sequences, infidelity  and  irreligion. 

Koformers  were  not  wanting  before  the  Reformation.  As  ear- 
Iv  lis  1170,  Pierre  Vaud,  or  Valdo,  of  L^ons,  sold  oft  his  merclian- 
disc,  and  appealing  from  popery  to  bcrii)ture  and  to  primitive 
Christianity,  as  in  a  later  clay  did  Jeremy  Bentham  from  St. Paul 
to  his  Master,  attacked  the  Roman  hierarchy.  John  Wielittt.' 
(131()-13Mo)  is  claimed  by  his  countrymen  to  have  originated  the 
"liberal  ideas"  by  which  "British  Protestantism  was  matured ;  it  is 
owned  even  by  foreigners  that  he  influcncod  oninioji  from  Oxford 
to  far  Bohemia.  lie  died  peaceably,  but  the  Wieliftites,  who  i)res- 
ently  wore  called  LoHards — ''tares"  sown  by  the  fiend — tlioudi 
supported  by  the  Commons  against  Henry  IV.  and  liis  party,  the 
dignilied  clergy,  sullered,  until  the  repeal  of  the  Act  "  de  hiert-ticis 
coniburendis,  the  fiercest  peraecution.  During  the  reign  of  Hen- 
ry V.  tliey  gained  strength,  as  the  pronunciamento  of  20,000  men 
in  St. Giles's  Fields  under  Sir  John  Oldeastlo  proves:  the  cruel 
death  of  their  loader  only  served  to  strengthen  them,  supporti^d 
as  tlioy  were  by  the  lower  branch  of  the  Legislature  in  their  op- 
position to  the  crown.  On  the  Continent  of  Knn)po  the  great  fol- 
lower of  Wielille  was  John  Ilus.><,  who  jireaehed  in  Bohemia  about 
a  Century  beforu  the  days  of  Luther,  and  who,  condemned  by  the 


Chap.  IX.  HISTORY  OF  MORMONISM.— METHODISM. 


865 


Councils  of  Constance  and  Basle,  perisbed  at  the  stake  in  1432 
Jerome  Savonarola,  tortured  and  burnt  in  1498,  and  other  minor 
names,  urged  forward  the  fatal  movement  until  the  Northern  ele- 
ment once  more  prevailed,  in  things  spiritual  as  in  things  tempo- 
ral, over  the  Southern;  the  rude  and  violent  German  ao-ain  at- 
tacked the  soft,  sensuous  Italian,  and  Martin  Luther  hatched  the 
egg  which  the  schools  of  Eabelais  and  Erasmus  had  laid.  It  was 
the  work  of  rough-handed  men ;  the  reformer  Zuingle  emerged 
from  an  Almne  shepherd's  hut;  Melancthon,  the  theologian  from 
an  armorers  shcp,  as  Augustine,  the  monk,  from  the  cottacre  of  a 
poor  mmer.  Such,  m  the  16th  century,  on  the  Continent  of  Eu- 
rope, were  the  prototypes  and  ;iredecessors  of  Messrs.  Josei^h 
Smith,  Oliver  Cowdery,  Sidney  Eigdon,  and  Brigham  Yonncr 
who  arose  nearly  three  centuries  afterward  in  the  New  World. 

In  England,  when  the  unprincipled  tyranny  of  Henry  VIII  liad 
established,  by  robbing  and  confiscating,  hanging  and  quartering 
S^7'^?™';'^  new-cast  religion,"  of  which  Sir  Thomas  Brown 

disliked  nothmg  but  the  name,"  the  bigotry  of  the  ultra-reform- 
^^■l  sc'iooV^f'  ^^  *^"^°  ^^  proceeding  to  extremes.  William 
Chillmgworth,  born  A.D.  1G02,  and  alternately  Protestant,  Cath- 
olic, Socinian,  and  Protestant,  put  forth  in  his  "Eeligion  of  Prot- 
estante  a  safe  Way  of  Salvation,"  that  Chillingworthi  Novissiraa, 
"the  Bible  and  nothing  but  the  liiblc."  This  dogma  swept  away 
ruthlessly  ail  the  cherished  traditions  of  a  past  age— the  ancient 
observed  customs  of  the  Church  — all,  in  fact,  that  can  beautify 
and  rcr  ler  venerable  a  faith,  and  substituted  in  their  stead  a  bald 
Bibholatry  which  at  once  justifies  credulity  and  forbids  it;  which 
tantalizes  man  with  the  signs  and  wonders  of  antiquity,  and  yet 
which,  with  an  unwise  contradictoriness,  forbids  him  to  revise  or 
restore  them.  And  as  each  man  became,  by  Bible-reading  his 
own  interpreter,  with  fullest  right  of  private  judgment,  and  with- 
out any  infixlhble  guide— the  inherent  weakness  of  reformation- 
to  direct  him,  tlic  broad  and  beaten  highway  of  belief  was  at  once 
cut  up  into  a  jiarcel  of  little  footpaths  which  presently  attained 
the  extreme  of  divergence. 

One  of  the  earliest  products  of  such  "  religious  freedom"  in  Eng- 
land was  Methodism,  so  called  from  the  Methodistic  physicians  at 
Rome.  The  founder  and  arch-priest  of  the  schism,  tholiev.  John 
WoHloy  ion  of  the  Eector  of  Kpworth  in  Lincolnshire,  and  born  in 
1< 03,  followed  Luther,  Calyin,  and  other  orecdmongers  in  acting 
upon  Ins  own  speculation  and  peculiar  opinions.  One  of  his  ear- 
liest disciples— only  eleven  years  younger  tl.an  his  master—  was 
the  equally  celebrated  George  Whitfield,  of  CJloucestor.  Sufiicc 
It  to  remark,  without  dwelling  upon  their  liistorv,  that  both  these 
rchgiomsts,  and  mostly  the  latter,  who  died  in  1770  at  Newberry 
New  England  converted  and  prenohed  to  thousands  in  America' 
there  establishing  field-services  and  eamp-meetings,  revivals  and 
confcrcncos,  which,  like  those  of  the  Eronch.  Convulsinnigts  in  the 


•f  ,?: 


I 


,1 


.11 


866 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


last  century,  galvanized  Christianity  -witli  a  wild  and  feverish  life. 
Falling  among  uneducated  men,  the  doctrine,  both  in  England  and 
the  colonies,  was  received  with  a  bewilderment  of  enthusiasm, 
and  it  soon  produced  the  usual  fruits  of  such  phrensy — prophe- 
cies that  fixed  the  end  of  the  world  for  the  28th  of  February,  1763, 
miraculous  discernment  of  angels  and  devils,  mighty  comings  of 
the  power  of  God  and  outpourings  of  the  Spirit,  rhapsodies  and 
prophecies,  dreams  and  visions,  accompanied  by  rollings,  jerks, 
and  barks,  roarings  and  convulsions,  syncope,  catalepsy,  and  the 
other  hysterical  aifections  and  obscure  disorders  of  the  brain, 
forming  the  characteristic  symptoms  of  religious  mania. 

Thus,  out  of  the  semi-barbarous  superstitions  of  the  Middle 
Ages,  succeeded  by  the  revival  of  learning,  which  in  the  15th 
century  followed  the  dispersion  of  the  wise  men  of  the  East  from 
captured  Byzantium,  proceeded  "  Protestant  Kationalism,"  a  sys- 
tem which,  admitting  the  right  of  private  judgment,  protested 
against  the  religion  of  Southern  Europe  becoming  that  of  the 
whole  world.  From  Protestantism  sprung  Methodism,  which  re- 
stored to  man  the  grateful  exercise  of  his  credulity — a  leading  or- 
gan in  the  human  brain — his  belief  in  preternatural  and  super- 
^^atural  agencies  and  appearances,  and  his  faith  in  miraculous  com- 
munication between  God  and  man ;  in  fact,  in  that  mysticism  and 
marvel-love,  which  are  the  columns  and  corner-stones  of  religion. 
Mormonism  thus  easily  arose.  It  will  be  found  to  contain  Tittle 
beyond  a  literal  and  verbal  interpretation  of  the  only  book  which 
Chillingworth  recognizes  as  the  rule  for  Christians,  and  a  pointed 
condemnation  of  those  who  make  the  contents  of  the  Bible  typi- 
cal, metaphysical,  or  symbolical,  "as  if  God  were  not  honest  when 
he  speaks  witli  man,  or  uses  words  in  other  than  their  true  ac- 
ceptation," or  could  "  palter  in  a  double  sense."  It  proposed  as 
its  three  general  principles,  firstly,  total  immersion  in  the  waters 
of  baptism  in  the  name  of  the  three  sacred  names;  secondly,  the 
commissioning  of  prophets,  apostles,  and  elders  to  administer  in 
things  holy  the  revelation  and  authority  of  heaven  ;  and,  thirdly, 
the  ministering  of  angels.  New  Tables  of  tlie  Law  aj)peared  m 
the  Golden  Plates.  Another  IJrirn  and  Tliummim  revealed  to 
Mr.  Joseph  Smith  that  he  wius  of  the  house  of  Israel  and  the  tribe 
of  Joseph,  liio  irdicritor  of  all  things  promised  to  that  favored 
seed.  It  tempered  the  superstitions  of  l)opery  with  the  rational- 
ism of  the  Protestant;  it  supplied  mankind  with  another  sacred 
book  and  with  an  infallible  inU'rpreter.  Human  belief  had  now 
its  weight  to  carrv.  those  pining  fur  the  excitement  of  tliauma- 
turgy  felt  satisfietl.  The  Mormons  were  no  longer  comp(>lled  to 
a.sk  "what  made  miracles  cease,"  and  "why  and  in  whieh  A.l). wn."» 
the  power  takun  from  the  Chureh."  It  relieved  ihom  from  hold- 
ing an  at)])arcnt  absurdity,  viz.,  that  the  voices  and  visitations,  the 
signs,  miracles,  and  intorvention.s — in  fact,  all  that  the  Bible  snVv 
raittod  to  huuiau  faith  had  ended  without  reason  about  the  time 


Chap.  IX.      TRUE  PROTESTANTS.-THE  BOOK  OF  MORMON.         867 

when  one  Constantine  became  king,  and  do  not  recommence  now 
when  they  are  most  wanted.  The  Mormons  are  not  forced  to 
ihmk  that  God  is  virtually  dead  in  the  world;  the  eminently 
practical  tendencies  of  the  New-World  race  cause  them  to  de 
velop  into  practice  their  contradiction  of  an  inference  from  which 
human  nature  revolts.  They  claim  to  be  the  true  Protestants 
I.e.,  those  who  protest  against  the  doctrines  of  a  ceased  fellowship 
between  the  Creator  and  the  creature  made  in  his  ima^Q  •  thev 
gratify  their  self-esteem  by  sneering  at  those  who  confiSe 'them- 
selves to  the  old  and  obsolete  revelation,  and  by  pitying  the  blind- 
ness and  Ignorance  that  can  not  or  will  not  open  its  eyes  to  the 
new  light.  Hence  it  follows  that  few  Catholics  become  Mormons 
and  that  those  few  become  bad  Mormons.  Man's  powers  of  faith 
pow  like  his  physical  force,  with  exercise.  He  considers  over- 
beliet  a  venial  error  compared  with  under-belief,  and  he  pro- 
gresses more  easily  in  belief  than  he  can  retrograde  into  disbelief. 
Ihus  Catholicism  has  spread  more  widely  over  the  world  than 
tiie  less  credulous  Protestantism,  and  the  more  thaumaturgic  Mor- 
monism  is  better  adapted  to  some  minds— the  Hindoo's  for  in- 
stance — than  Catholicism.  ' 

In  Mormonism,  or,  rather,  in  Mormon  sacred  literature,  there 
are  three  epochs  which  bring  us  down  to  the  present  day  The 
iirst  IS  the  monogamic  age,  that  of  the  books  of  Mormon,  and  of 
Doctrines  and  Covenants— 1830-1843.  The  second  is  the  poly- 
gamic, from  the  first  revelation  of  "celestial  marriage"  to  Mr  Jo- 
seph Smith  in  1843,  and  by  him  communicated  to  three  followers 
only,  until  ita  final  establishment  by  Mr.  Brigham  Young  in  1852 
when  secrecy  was  no  longer  deemed  necessary.  The  third  is  the 
materialistic  period;  the  doctrine,  "not  founded  on  modern  su- 
pernatural revelation,  but  on  reason  and  common  sense,"  was  the 
work  of  1848-1849. 

The  first  ei)och  laid  the  foundations  of  the  Faith.  It  produced 
the  Book  of  Mormon,  "an  abridgment  written  by  the  hand  of 
Mormon  upon  plates  taken  from  the  plates  of  Ncphi.  Wherefore 
It  is  an  abridgment  of  the  record  of  the  pi-oplc  of  Ncphi,  and  also 
of  the  Lamanites;  written  to  the  Lamanitos,  who  are  a  remnant 
of  the  house  of  Israel,  and  also  to  Jew  and  Gentile:  written  by 
way  of  commandment,  and  also  by  the  spirit  of  prophecy  and  of 
revelation.  Written  and  sealed  up,  and  hid  up  unto  the  Lord, 
that  they  might  not  be  destroyed :  to  come  forth  by  the  gift  and 
power  of  God  unto  tlie  interpretation  thereof:  sealedby  t  le  hand 
of  Mormon,  and  hid  up  unto  the  Lord,  to  come  forth  in  due  time 
by  the  way  of  Gentile ;  .the  interpretation  thereof  by  the  gift  of 
God  I" 

"  An  abridgment  taken  from  the  Rook  of  Ether  also,  which  is 
a  record  of  the  peopl(>  of  Jared,  who  were  scattered  at  the  time 
the  Lord  confounded  the  language  of  the  people,  when  they  were 
building  a  tower  to  get  (!)  to  heaven ;  which  is  to  show  unto  the 


868 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


remnant  of  the  house  of  Israel  what  great  things  the  Lord  hath 
done  for  their. fathers;  and  that  they  may  know  the  covenants 
of  the  Lord,  that  they  are  not  cast  off  forever;  and  also  to  the 
convincing  of  the  Jew  and  Gentile  that  Jesus  is  the  Christ,  the 
Eternal  God,  manifesting  himself  to  all  nations ;  and  now,  if 
there  are  faults,  they  are  the  mistakes  of  men ;  therefore  condemn 
not  the  things  of  God,  that  ye  may  be  found  spotless  at  the  judg- 
ment-seat of  Christ.     Moroni." 

*'  Translated  by  Joseph  Smith,  Jun." 

This  extract  is  followed  by  the  testimony  of  three  witnesses, 
Oliver  Cowdery,  David  Whitmer,  and  Martin  Harris,  who  declare 
to  have  seen  the  Golden  Plates  with  their  engravings,  which  were 
shown  to  them  by  the  power  of  God,  not  of  man ;  and  that  they 
knew  by  the  voice  of  God  that  the  records  had  been  translated 
by  the  gift  and  power  of  God.  Furthermore  they  "  declare  witli 
words  of  solemnness  that  an  angel  of  God  came  down  from  heaven, 
and  he  brought  and  laid  before  our  eyes,  that  we  beheld  and  saw 
the  plates  and  the  engravings  thereon."  Tliey  conclude  with 
these  solemn  words:  "And  the  honor  bo  to  the  Father,  and  to 
the  Son,  and  to  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  is  one  God,  Amen."  Then 
comes  "  also  the  testimony  of  eight  witnesses" — four  Whitmers, 
three  Smiths,  and  one  Page*— who  make  it  "known  unto  all  na- 
tions, kindred,  tongues,  and  people,  unto  whom  this  -work  shall 
come,  that  loseph  Smith,  Jun.,  the  translator  of  this  work,  has 
shown  unto  us  the  plates  of  which  hath  been  spoken,  which  have 
the  aj»pearanco  of  gold ;  and  as  many  of  the  leaves  as  the  said 
Smith  has  translated  we  did  handle  witli  our  hands ;  and  we  also 
saw  the  engravings  thereon,  all  of  which  has  the  appearance  of 
ancient  work  and  of  curious  workmanship.  And  this  we  bear 
record  with  words  of  soberness  that  the  said  Smith  lias  shown 
unto  us,  for  we  have  seen  and  hefted,  and  know  of  a.  surety  that 
the  said  Smith  has  got  the  plates  of  which  we  have  spoken.  And 
we  give  our  liands  unto  the  world,  to  witness  unto  tnc  world  that 
whicli  we  have  seen ;  and  we  lie  not,  God  bearing  witness  of  it." 

The  nature  of  the  Latter-Day  Saints'  Biblion  will  best  be  under- 
stood from  the  subjoined  list  of  contents.f 

•  Tlio  totnl  witnosdps  nr<>  thus  eleven,  exactly  tlio  nuinlior  flint  Iwrc  evitlcnce  to 
tho  oriKiniil  I'lirisiiaii  iiiirailfs. 
t  At  the  end  of  this  elmpter  I  hnvii  inserted  n  f«ynnpsis  of  Mormon  clironolopy. 


FiHRT  ItiinK  or  NitPlll. 
tjiniriinu'  of  till'  Ui'nird, 
N>'|>lilV  AliriilKiiii'iit. 
I<('lil'ii  Drc'Hni. 

U'lil  il.  imiin  Into  Ihn  Wlldcmef^K. 
Ni'|ilil  nlHyi'lli  I.<ilmn. 


Mi'f«l«li  «ni1  .Tiihn  pmplHwIciI  of. 
Ollvc-limiiplico  linikcii  off. 
Nr|(tiiv  Vl-lon  of  Miirv. 
Ho.  Ilip  Criirltixlim  of<'lirlKt,< 
l>o.  l>Hrkiii'K!<  mill  l'.Hrtlii|iiHki>. 
On'Ht  iiliDiiilnnlili'  rinirili. 


H«riiili  rimiplninx  of  l/i'lil'*  VIhIob.  i  lilncovoiy  of  the  I'roiiilriiil  lAnil. 
«iinliiil»  of  (lie  limi'.'  I'lnlfK.  (Ilhlf  Kitoki'n  of. 

Iflilimi'l  iTDw  witli  Ncplil.  illO'ik  of  Mcinium  and  Holy  OtiORt 

Ni'plil'p'  llrithrcn  rclh'l,  iiml  bind      iiroinlncd. 

him.  OthiT  llookB  rnino  forth. 

l/fWf  Urmtn  of  the  Tree,  llinl,  lilMi-iind  Ikink  of  Motm.inono. 

etc,  IVonilNi  to  thu  Uautllw. 


Two  ('InirrhcK. 

The  Work  of  the  Kathor  to  mm- 

IllCtlCO. 

A  Mini  In  white  Itolii'K  (.Inhn). 

Ncplilii'i"  roiii(>  to  Knowledge. 

It.»l  of  lri.ii. 

TliH  Koiif  of  l4>hl  l«k('  WIvw, 

niriM't^ir  found  (iiiiil), 

NiphI  hroki'  UW  llow. 

DlriMtHf  work  liy  I  «lth. 

Inhnmrl  <\\vt\. 

\a'\\\  nnd  Ni'phl  Ihrciitoncd. 

Nephl  cuiiuuMidwl  to  build  •  tlbl|i. 


Chap.  IX. 


THE  MORMON  BIBLE. 


869 


.   ^I!'^!??^  *?  Covenants  and  Doctrines  is  what  the  Vedanta  is 
to  the  Vedas,  the  Talmud  to  the  Old  Testament,  thrTraditfons  to 


Nephi  about  to  Ijo  worshiped  by 

Ilia  Dretliren. 
Sliip  flriislipd  and  entered. 
Dancing  in  tlie  Ship. 
Nephi  bound ;  Sliip  driven  baclc. 
Arrived  on  tlie  Promiued  Laud. 
I'ltttcs  of  Ore  made. 
Zenos,  Neum,  and  Zcnock. 
iTiiilnlra  Writings, 
lluly  Ouo  of  Israel. 


.Sw'ONT)  l!ooK  op  Nkpiii. 
I.ehi  to  ilia  Soiiii. 
OppoHition  in  nil  Tilings. 
Adiim  feli  tlmt  Men  miglit  bo. 
Jonupli  mvr  our  Uoy. 
A  eiioico  .Seer. 
AVritlngs  grow  together, 
rropliot  promldtJ  to  tlie  Lainan- 

Itei". 
Joseph's  I'ropheey  on  brass  I'latca 
I.elii  buried. 
Neplil's  Life  sought. 
Nephi  sepanitcd  from  Lamnn. 
Tcniplo  built. 
Skiu  of  HIaeknoflfl. 
I'riertti",  etc.,  consecrated. 
Miiko  other  I'Inti's. 
Isaiah's  Wonis  (by  Jacob). 
Angola  to  a  Devil. 
Spirits  and  Uodics  reunited. 
Itiiptisra. 

No  Kings  upon  this  Ijind. 
Isaiah  pidphesieth. 
Kod  of  the  Stem  of  Josso. 
Seed  of  Joseph  perish  not 
Law  of  Moses  kept. 
Christ  shall  show  himself 
l-igns  of  Christ,  lilrth  and  Death. 
Wliisper  from  tlio  Dust;   Book 

sealed  up. 
Priestcraft  forbidden. 
Pe.iled  Hook  to  lie  brnught  forth 
Thn'O  Witnesses  Is'hold  the  Hook. 
The  Words  [read  this,  I  pruy  tliee]. 
Seal  up  tlie  Hook  again. 
Their  rriests  shnll  rontend. 
Teach  witli  their  Learning,  and 

deny  the  Holy  Gliost. 
Rob  the  I'lxir. 
A  Ilible,  a  lliblc. 
Men  Judged  of  tl'C  Hicks. 
Wliiti'  ami  a  deliglilsouie  People. 
Work  commeiicu  among  all  1  co- 

ple, 
Ijinib  of  nod  linptlzed. 
liaji  i  nil  bywiiterandlloIyGhoBt 


A  Sign ;  Shcrem  smitten. 
Knos  takes  the  Plates  from  his 
Father. 


TuE  Hook  op  Enos. 
Enos,  thy  Sins  are  forgiven, 
liecords  threatened  by  Lamanltes 
Lamanitea  eat  raw  Meat. 

The  Book  op  Jabo.m. 
Xepliites  waxed  strong. 
Lumanites  drink  Blood. 
I'ortify  Cities. 
Plates  delivered  to  Omni. 

The  Book  of  Omni. 
Hates  given  to  Amaron. 
Hates  given  to  Chemish. 
.Mosioii  warned  to  flee. 
Zaratiemltt  discovered. 
lOngravings  on  a  Stono. 
< .'orian tu m r  d i.^co v(> red. 
IBs  Parent.^  eaino  from  the  Tower 
Platea  delivered  to  King  Benja- 
min. "^ 

The  Wonjis  op  Mormon. 
talso  CUrista  and  Prophets. 

1!OOK  op  Mosiaii. 
.Mosiali  made  King,  and  received. 
Tlio  Plates  of  Brass,  Sword,  and 
Director. 

King  Benjamin  tcachcth  tlio  Peo- 
ple. 

'I'heirTent  Doors  toward  tlio  Tem 

pie. 
<;oiiiing  of  Christ  foretold. 
Beggars  not  denied. 
Sons  and  Daughters. 
Mosiali  began  to  reign. 
Amnion,  etc.,  bounded  and  ini- 

pris.  mod. 
Lliiilil's  I'roclamallon. 
Twenty-four  Plates  of  Ciold. 
eer  and  Translator. 


ll'X)t{  'ip  JAnon. 
Nephi  anointed  a  King. 
Nephi  died. 

Nepliltes  and  Ijimanlten. 
A  righteous  ilraneh  from  Joseph. 
Ijiiuaniles  Nlmll  scourge  you. 
More  than  one  Wife  forbidden. 

Tnes,  Waves,  and  .Moiint.iina  obey 
us. 

Jews  Imiked  tieyond  tho  Mark. 

Tame  Olive-tree. 

Nethemiost  Part  of  tho  VInovard. 

Fruit  laid  up  iigalust  llm  Season. 

Another  llninch. 

Wild  I'riiit  hail  overcome. 

Lord  of  the  Vineyard  wept. 

Bmnrhes  overeomo  the  llootg. 

Wild  llrsuohes  liliieked  oflf. 

Sfaerom  tlio  Autl-ChrlsL 


Urcobii  op  Zenifk. 
A  Battle  fniight. 
King  Ijiman  died. 
Noah  made  King. 
.Milnadi  the  Prophet. 
Itesiirreelion. 
Aluia  believed  Abinndi. 
AblnadI    cast    into    Prison    and 

scotiiged  with  fngots. 
Waters  of  Mormon. 
Tho  I  laughters  of  the  Ijimanile." 

stolen  by  King  Noah's  I'ricsts. 
HiK'ords  (m  I'Intes  of  Oi-o. 
Last 'I'ribiite  of  Wine. 
Ijimanlles'  deep  Sleep. 
King  Linihl  ba|itiKed. 
Priest  and  Ti'aeliers  labor. 
Alum  saw  an  AngeL 
Alma  fell  (diiuili). 
King  Moolah's  Sons  pnach  to  the 

Ijiiuanltes. 
Tninslatlon  of  Iteeords. 
Plat<«  delivered  by  LInihi. 
Tran-laled  by  two  Stones. 
PiMplo  back  'o  tho  Towr. 
I.'eeonls  given  to  Alma, 
ilililges  appointed. 
King  Mosiali  died. 
Alma  dleil. 

Klnira  (if  Wnlil  nnA.xA 

A  A 


TiiB  Book  op  Auia. 
Nehor  slew  Gideon. 
Amlici  made  King. 
Amlici  slain  in  Battle. 
Amlicites  painted  red. 
Alma  baptized  in  Sldon 
Alma's  Preaching. 
Alma  ordained  Elders. 
Commanded  to  meet  often. 
Alma  saw  an  Angel. 
Amulek  saw  an  Angel. 
Lawyers  questioning  Amulek. 
iColns  named. 
Zeezroni  tho  Lawyer. 
Zeezrom  trembles. 
Election  spoken  of. 
Midchlzedek  Priesthood. 
Alma  and  Amulek  stoned. 
Kecords  burned. 
Prison  rent. 

Zeezrom  healed  and  baptized. 
Nchor's  Desolation, 
fjimanites  converted. 
Flocks  scattered  at  Sebus. 
Amnion  smote  off  Anns. 
Ammon  and  King  Lamoni. 
King  Lamoni  fell. 
Ammon  and  tho  Queen. 
King  and  yueen  proatrato. 
Aaron,  etc,  delivered. 
Jerusalem  built. 
Preaching  In  Jerusalem. 
Lamoni'a  Fatiier  converted. 
Land  Desolation  and  Buuutiful 
Anti-Nophi-Lchies. 
General  t'oiincii. 
Swords  buried, 
lOOB  massacred. 
Lamanites  perish  by  Firo. 
Slavery  forbidden. 
Antl  -  Nephi  -  Lehies  removed  to 

Jershon,  called  Amiaoultce. 
Triimeudous  Itattle. 
Anti-Christ,  Korihor. 
Korihor  struck  dumb.  [gel 

Tho  Devil  in  tho  Form  ofan  An- 
Korihor  trodden  down. 
Alma's  .Mission  to  Zorjimites. 
Itnnieuuiptom  (holy  Stand). 
Aliiitton  Hill  (inidali. 
Mmn  on  In  1th. 
I'ropliecy  of  Zenos. 
i'ropheey  of  Zi  nock. 
.\niulek's  Kuowledgo  of  Christ. 
Cliarity  recommended.   . 
Same  Spirit  possess  your  Body. 
Itelievers  east  out. 
Alma  to  lielaiuan. 
I'latis  given  to  Ihlnman. 
-4  I'lates  and  I  llreetoin. 
<iazelem,  a  Stone  (seorot). 
I.ialiona,  or  Coinpaaa. 
Alnitt  to  Shlblon. 
Aluia  toCorianton. 
I'npanloualile  81u. 
Ilisuriectlon. 
Itestoratlon. 
Justice  in  l>unishment. 
If,  Adam,  to<.k,Tree,  Life. 
Mercy  rob  Jiisllee. 
Moroni's  Strntogeni. 
Slaugliler  of  Ijimanitos. 
MoMui's  .-^iieorh  to  Zerah-mnalu 
I'ropheey  of  a  Soldier. 
Ijininiiitcs'  C.ivenant  of  Peace. 
Alma's  I'rophuc/ 40U  youra  after 


rl:|l 


,4^J| 


!    '.; 


L  -ill: 


370 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


the  Gospel,  and  the  Aliadis  to  the  Koran— a  necessary  supple- 
ment of  amplifications  and  explanations.    It  contams  two  parts. 


Dwindle  in  Unbelief.  iCcBoram  and  Son  murdered. 

Alraa'rf  stranm  Departure.  Gadianton  a  Kobbera. 

AmallekiHl.  iSidctluiway  tlie  Peo-  Gadianton'^  l{ubber»  destroyed. 

pie:  dwtroyeth  the  Church.       Nephi's  I'roplwry. 
Standard  of  Xloroni.  Gadianton's  1  obbers  are  Judges. 

JosephV  <  U«it  rent.  K^l'li^f  Judge  slain. 

J«cul)'«  IToplicoy  of  Jo.^'oph's  Seed.  S-^^*"'"'"  >     C'i      i^™ 
rovu.^  in  the  Und;  Plunts  and  Keys  of  lie  Kingdom 


liootsfor  lii^cuaM. 
Amnllrkiiih's  Plot. 
The  Klntr  atabbed. 
Ani.tlickiah  niiirrios  the  Queen, 

anil  is  acknowledged  King. 
FortlfieiitiiinH  by  Moroni. 
Ditches  filled  with  dead  Bodic.'. 
AniaUikiiiirsOath. 
Pahoran  appointed  Judge. 
Army  against  King-men. 
Amnlickiiili  clain. 
Ammoron  made  King. 
Ikpuntiful  fortified. 
Dissi'n'ions. 
20()()  young  Men. 
Moroul's  Kpistle  to  Ammoron. 
Ammoron's  Answer. 
Lamanltcs  made  drunk. 
Moroni's  Stiatiigem. 
Helamiin's  i:pli<tle  to  MoronL 
Heliiman's  S(rata;,'em. 
Motliers  taught  I'uitli. 
Ijinianlte-'  ."urrendered. 
City  of  Antiparah  taken. 
City  of  Cumeni  taken. 
200  of  the  'MM  fainted. 
Prisoners  rebel ;  slain. 
Manti  tnken  by  Hlratagem. 
M'lrini  to  the  (tovemor. 
Governor's  An-iwer. 
King  I'liehus  slain. 
Cords  iimi  Ijidders  prepared. 
Ni'pliihah  tiiken. 
Teanouin's  Stratagem ;  slain. 
Penoe  eHlablished. 
Moronihali  made  Conmiander. 
llebunan  dies. 
PacnM  Things ;  Shlblon. 
Moroni  dieil. 
W0i>  enilgialed  North. 
Hhip^<  built  by  lliigotb. 
Barred  Things  eonnnlttcd  to  Ucla- 

man;  Shildnn  died. 

Tmk   !li>r>K  or  llELAMAN. 

Pahnriin  died. 

Pahornii  appointed  Judge. 

Kisliknuien  slew  l'ah"ran. 

Paeumenl  upixiluteJ  JudgP. 

Xanilienda  taken. 

pHeiiiLii'ni  killed. 

(.'oriiiuluuir  slain. 

IjiMinnlte-'  surrendered. 

llelauiiin  appointed  Judge. 

^oeret  <lgns  dlseoVered.andKlah- 

kuuien  stabbeil. 
(iadiiintiin  lied. 
K.iulgi-Biinn  Northward. 
Cement  llou-m. 
tlaiiy  ll<«<ks  and  Hecordi. 
Ilebiniiin  ilied. 
Neplil  nisde  .ludge. 
Neplilte-  iHTonie  «iik<<d. 


Ncphi  taken  away  by  tlie  Spirit. 
I'ainine  in  the  Land. 
Gadianton's  Hand  destroyed. 
Famine  nmoved. 
Samuel's  I  ropho<y. 

Tools  lOHt. 

Two  Days  and  a  Night;  Light. 
Sign  of  the  i;rucifixiun. 
Samuel  stoneii,  etc. 
Angels  apiK'ared. 

liOOK  OK  Nktiii. 
Lachoneus  chief  Judge. 
N'ephi  receives  tlic  Itecords. 
Nephi's  Blninge  I)oparture. 
No  Darkness  at  Night. 
I-amanites  became  white. 
Oiddlanhi  to  Ijieboueus. 
Gidgiddoni  chief  Judge, 
(addlanhi  ^'lain. 
Zenmarlhah  hanged. 
Kobber.H  surrendered. 
Monnon  abridges  the  l!ccord9. 
Cliurch  tH'gan  to  l)e  broken  up. 
Government  of  the  Laud  destroy 

c<I. 
Chli'f  Julgo  munlerod. 
Divided  into  Tribes. 
Xephi  rai^'d  Iho  l>oad. 
Sign  of  the  Crueifi.xion. 


Maittchi'a  Prophecy.  fmon. 

Faith  tried  by  the  Boole  of  Mor- 
Children's  Tongues  loosed. 
"The  Dead  raised. 
Baptism  and  Holy  Gliost. 
All  Things  common. 
t  ;hrl9t  appenrei'i  third  Time. 
Moses's  Church. 
Three  Nephltos  tarry. 
The  Twelve  caught  up. 
Change  upon  tlieir  Boiiies. 
I  >lsciple8  raise  the  Dead. 
Zaraheuila  rebuilt.  [stead. 

Other  Discipiej!  ordained  in  their 
N'ephi  died;  Amos  kept  the  I!ec- 

ords  in  lits  stead. 
VmoB  died,  and  his  Son  Amos  kept 

the  Keeords. 
Prisons  rent  by  the  Three. 
S(!cret  Combinations. 
.\maron  hid  Uecords. 

Book  op  XionMON. 
Three  1  lisclples  taken  away. 
Mormon  forbidden  to  pre.ich. 
.Mormon  appointed  Leader. 
Samuel's  Prophecy  fiilliiled. 
Mormon  makes  a  llecord. 
Ijinds  divlitai. 
The  Twelve  shall  judge. 
Desolation  taken. 
Women  and  ('hildren  sacrificed. 
.Mormon  took  the  Uecoi'ds  hid  in 

shim. 
Mormon  reiH^nted  of  his  Oath  and 

took  Command. 
(Niming  fortli  of  Uecords. 
Hecords  hid  in  Cnmorah. 


Cltie-i    destroved,    liurtluiuakes,  •iaO,mHI  Nephites  slain. 


Darkness,  it  . 
1j\w  of  Moses  fulfilled. 
Christ  appi-ared  to  Nephites. 
I'rint  of  the  Nails. 
Nephi  ami  others  called. 
Baptism  commanded. 
DiK'trlne  of  Christ. 
t.;iirist  the  i;nd  of  the  Ijiw. 
( Ither  Sheep  sisiken  of. 
Blessed  an^  the  (ientiie. 
Gentile  Wickedness  on  the  Land 

of  .loseph. 
Isaiah's  Words  fulfilled. 
Jesus  healed  the  Siik. 
Christ  blessi'd  Cliildren. 
l.lttli'  ones  eueircled  with  Fire. 
Christ  adininislered  tlio   Sacra 

nuMii. 
tlhrlst  taught  his  I>lselplcs. 

Names  lift  lie  Twelve.  ,     

The  rwelvetaiightllie  Multitude.] Lord  talked  three  Hours 


Shall  not  get  Cain  by  the  Plates. 
Tiiese  Things  shall  come  forth  out 

of  the  Kartli. 
The  State  of  the  World. 
M Iracles  cease ;   I'nbelief. 
Disciples  go  into  all  the  World 

and  iireaeli. 
Language  of  tlic  Book. 

BoflK   or   I'.TIIER. 

Twenty-four  I  laten  found. 
Jared  cried  unto  the  I/ird. 
.lan-d  wint  down  to  tlie  Valley  of 

NImnul. 
Deseret  Houey.lK<e. 
llargi'S  built. 
.  Iiwree  of  Gisl;  choice  Land. 
I  Flee  fnun  Bondage. 
I  Four  \ears  iii  Tents  at  Morlan- 

cunier. 


II  ipli-m,  Holy  (iluHt,  and  I  Ire. 
Dl-eiples  made  while. 
Jesus  c.'ime,  seeouil  Time. 
Kalth,  great. 

Christ  breaks  Bread  again. 
Miracle  ,  Bread  and  W  lue. 
Gentiles  ili  stroyed  il^alah). 
/,|on  i»tablisheil. 

Fnmi  Gentiles  to  Toiir  S^id.         , 

Sign;  Father's  W(ukconuiieneod.;i44  Days'  Passage. 
He  shall  Im'  marred.  U)rlhah  anointed  King. 

N..pM  gave  U;e'i.;;.«  Seat  to  --;|;;;;^-X> /•->■""•  ^-^-^^  l/^V:!'-    ,„ve. 


Barges  like  a  Disli. 
I'.lglit  Ve-sels;  sixteen  Stones. 
I/iiil  lonehed  the  Stone-". 
Fing.r  iif  the  i.ord  seen. 
Jared's  Brotlier  saw  the  Lord. 
Two  Stones  given. 
Stones  sealed  up. 
Went  alioanl  of  VesEOls. 
Kurlnus  Wind  blew. 


Snoohaptlwd.  lUmanltps.'     'Irlln's 

Alma  and  Nephl  surrouudel  with  Isaiah's  Word". 
Angela  admlulsler,  [I'lru.  SaluU  did  arlia. 


The  Daugliti  r  of  lured  danced. 
Jared  anoliili'd  King  by  tlio  Hand 
of  Wicliudueas. 


Chap.  IK. 


DOCTRINES  AND  COVENANTS. 


371 


The  first,  of  sixty-four  pages,  is  entitled  "Lectures  on  Faith  •»  al- 
though published  in  the  name  of  the  Prophet  Joseph  it  was'wrtt 
ten,  men  say,  by  Sidney  Eigdon.  The  second,  4ich,  with  the 
Appendix  concludes  the  book,  is  called  Covenants  and  Command- 
ments {sciL,  of  the  Lord  to  his  servants  of  the  Church  of  Jesus 
Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints}.  ^^"^ 

Of  the  Lectures,  the  first  is  upon  "  Faith  itself— what  it  is  "    It 
treats  the  subject  in  the  normal  way,  showing  how  much  faith  is 
unconsciously  exercised  by  man  in  his  every-day  life,  and  making 
It    the  principle  by  which  Jehovah  acts."    The  second  is  concern- 
ing   the  subject  on  which  Faith  reste,"  and  contains  an  ancient 
chronology  from  Adam  to  Abraham,  showing  how  the  knowledo-e 
of  God  was  preserved.     The  third,  on  the  attributes  of  God,  en- 
larges upon  the  dogma  that  "  correct  ideas  of  the  character  of  God 
arc  necessary  111  order  to  the  exercise  of  faith  in  him  for  life  and 
salvation  "     The  fourth  shows  the  "  connection  there  is  between 
correct  ideas  of  the  attributes  of  God,  and  the  exercise  of  faith  in 
him  unto  eternal  life^"    The  fifth,  following  those  that  treat  of  the  ' 
being,  character,  perfection,  and  attributes  of  God,  "speaks  of  the 
Godhead  -meaning  the  Father,  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost-and  ex- 
plains  the  peculiarities  of  the  "personage  of  tabernacle."    The 
sixth    treats  of  the  knowledge  which  persons  must  have,  that  the 
tenor  ot  life  which  they  preserve  is  according  to  the  will  of  God 
in  order  that  they  may  be  enabled  to  exercise  faith  in  him  unto 
life  and  salvation."    The  seventh  and  last  discusses  the  effects  of 
faith.    Each  lecture  is  followed  by  "  questions  and  answers  on  the 
foregoing  principles,"  after  the  fashion  of  school  catechisms,  and 
to  asterisk  d  sentences  a  note  is  appended :  "  Let  the  student  com- 
mit the  paragraph  to  memory."     There  is  one  merit  in  the  lec- 
tures :  like  Wesley  s  Hymns,  they  are  written  for  the  poor  and  sim- 
ple; consequently,  they  are  read  where  a  higher  tone  of  thought 
and  style  would  remain  unheeded. 

"^^"^  "1"  m;""  "1  °^'^"'  "^  '^'■'^^  ^*^  ^'^^*  Second"  will  explain  its 
contents.*    1  he  Appendix  contains  twelve  pages  of  revelation  on 


Jured  iiuirdprnl,  ond  AkUh  reign- 


ed in  Ills  SIciid, 
NninOK  of  Aidinnli'. 

rolrOIli'U^  SlTpcIltH. 

lilplnklKira  cnifl  liclpm. 

Mcirliiiitoii  imnlnliul  Kin^'. 

I'ol'iinoim  SiTiH'tilrt  dcntioyod, 

Many  ivicl((«l  Klng^. 

Monml  nn  I'liitli. 

Mlnu'lin  tiy  Knltli. 

Moroni  fiiw  .le^ii". 

Nov  ■li'i-iHiilcm  ppokcn  of. 

Ktlicrca-it  out.  ; 

liiTordK  flnli-lipd  In  tho  Cnvlty  of,  

Secret  Doinlilniillnno.         [nltock.'  Hook  ok  Mokoht, 

War  ill  nil  tlio  Ijind.  tlhrlnfii  WnrdM  to  tlio  Tivolvc. 

•  Imlcx  ill  tlio  order  of  date  to  Part  ISccond : 


Mns  Mmrod    miirdprod   by  Iil^jMnnncr  of  Ordination. 
lli(,'li.)irli>t;  tlio  lIlKh-prlcst Oilier  of  Sacrament 
WH,-.  niiirderod  by  I.ib.  lOrder  of  ltin)li,:in. 

I.il)  Pbiln  by  Oorlaiitiimr.  Il'alth,  Ilojie,  (Jlinrity. 

Head  llodie-  cover  tlio  Und,  and  Ilaptisni  ofllttle  Cliildron 


none  to  biiiy  tliem. 
•i,(M)(l,000  of  .Men  slain. 
Hill  Knniuh. 
Ciitw  rend  tlie  Air. 
.'^lept  on  their  Swords. 

riantiinir  clew  Sliiz. 
:I)o.  fell  totlin  lOartli. 
*Uerurdi)  hid  by  Kthcr. 


Women  fed  on  their  lIualjandB' 

I'lesh. 
nniightcrn  murdered  and  eaten. 
Sufferings  of  Women  and  t  liil- 

dren. 
<;an  not  recommend  thom  toGud. 
Moroni  to  the  Ijimanlten. 
4.'0  Vear»  clnce  the  Sinn. 
HeconlH  Keaied  up  (Moroni). 
•  ilftrt  of  the  Spirit. 
f"»l'«  Word  shall  hlgg  forth. 


BO.  revelation  to  ,1.  Smith,  Jun July,  1S_'8. 

.'11    lipveiatloii  to  ,1.  Smith,  sen Feb.,  182». 

S:'.  Kevelution  lo.I.  Smllhjnn.,  and 

M.  llarrlii.  ,,....,.,,„,,,,,,  M<"^h  1^'>0 


8.  Revelation  to  O.  Cowdery  and  J. 

8mllh,Jiin April,  1^29. 

3,1.  Uevehitloii  whether  John  tarried 

■-■«  '— " April,  1S2?. 


■■  '■''fiW' 


.   ..all. 
■  lijf  ■  i:J 


M 


372 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  TK. 


marriage,  government,  and  laws  in  general,  and  finally  the  •'  mar- 
tyrdom of  Joseph  Smith"  (no  longer  junior)  "  and  his  brother  Ily- 


See. 
34. 
05. 

80. 

8T. 

8S. 
89. 
40. 
41. 
i-i. 

43. 

44. 

2. 

in. 

47. 
46. 


4S. 
•4i». 

50. 

BO. 

51. 

in. 

M. 

fa. 

64. 

155. 

60. 
11. 

57. 
63. 

13. 
8'.>. 
(lU. 
61. 

13. 
14. 

03. 

15. 
10. 
03. 

04. 

OS. 

IT. 
«3. 


00. 

67. 
OS. 
69. 

70. 

27. 
18. 


Pevelation  to  O.  Cowdery April,  1829. 

Revelation  on  translation,  to  O. 

Cowdery April,  1829. 

Revelation  on  losing  some  of  tlie 

Book  of  Mormon May,  1829. 

Revelation  to  IL  Smith May,  1829. 

Revelation  to  J.  Knight,  Ben May,  1829. 

Revelation  to  D.  Wliitmer June,  1829. 

Revelation  to  J.  Whitmer June,  1829. 

Revelation  to  P.  Whitmer,  jun.  .  June,  1829. 
Revelation  to  O.  Cowdery,   U. 

AVhitmer,  and  M.  Harria Juno,  1829. 

Rev.'latlon  to  chooi-e  Twelve. . . .  Ju"<\ '^'i,'- 

Revelation  to  M.  Harria March,  ISiO. 

Revelation  on  Church  govern- 

inent April  0, 1S.10, 

Revelation  to  J.  Smith,  jun April  6, 1H30. 

Revelation  on  re-buptii'm April,  1830. 

Revelation   to  O.  Cowdery,  II. 

Smith, and  S.  H.  Smitli,  etc.. .  April,  1S30. 
Revelation  to  J.  Smitli,  jun.,  and 

O.  Cowdery July,  1830. 

Revelation  to  Kmma  Smith  ....  July,  1830. 
Revelation  to  J.  Smith,  jun.,  O. 

Cowdery,  and  J.  Whitmer  . . .  July,  1830. 
Revelation  on   Sacrament,  firrft 

paragraph August,  1830. 

Revelation  on  ditto,  aecond  and 

third  paragraplw Sept.,  1830. 

Revelation   to  O.  Cowdery  and 

the  Church Sept.,  1S30. 

Revelation  to  fix  ciders Sept.,  ISSI. 

Revelation  to   D.  Whitmer,  1'. 
Whitracr,jnn,, and  J. Wliitmer  fe\>U,  1S30. 

Revelation  to  T.  R.  Marsh Sept.,  1830. 

Revelation  to  P.  P.  ITatt  and  Z.         ,       ,„„„ 

I'etetwn Octohcr,  1830. 

Revelation  to  E.  Thayro  and  N. 

Sweet October,  1830. 

Revelation  to  ().  Pratt Nov.,  1830. 

Revelation  toj.  Smith,  jun.,  and 

H.Rigdon ncc.,lS30. 

Revelation  to  E.  Partridge Dec.,  1830. 

Revelation  to  J.  Smith,  j  un. ,  an.l 

S.  RIgdon IIP''-'  l^S''- 

Revelation  to  the  Church Ian.  2,  1831. 

Revelation  to  J.  Covlll Ian.  6. 1S31. 

licvelntlon  concerning  J.  Covlll.  Jan.,  1831. 
Revelation  appointing  li  Part-  .  ,„„_ 

ridge  bishop ''^•'''- ••' 1?JV 

Revelation  on  LawsoftheChun'h  I'eb.  B,  1831. 

Revcliition  to  the  Church l"eb.,  1831. 

Revelation  calling  the  elders  to- 
gether  F'l>-i  lo^'- , 

Revelation  on  I'niplii'cy Mar.  7, 1^31. 

Revelation  on  the  Gifts Mar.  8,  1831. 

Revelation  to  J.  Smith,  jun.,  and 

J.  Whitmer Mar.  8,  lail. 

Revelation  to  settle  certain  fam- 

lUffi  for  the  present March,  1831. 

Revelation  concerning  the  Shak- 

e„  Mp.rch.  1831. 

Revelation  on  the  Spirit May,  1831. 

Revelation  to  K  Partridge,  con- 
cerning the  ColcBvlUe  branch, 

in  Thompson May,  1831. 

Revelation  on  sending  elders  to 

Missouri  June  7, 1831. 

Revelation  to  a  (ilUiert lune,  ISill. 

Revelation  to  Newil  Knight luiie,  1«31. 

Revelation  to  W.  W.  I'helps. . , .  June,  1831. 
Revelation  toT.  U.  Marsh  and  K 

Tliayre June,  1831. 

Revelation  on  the  loi-atlon  of  Zlon  July,  1881. 
Revelation  ou  the  trihulutlona  of 

».._                                                         Aiiip   1.  1RA1. 
&1UU  ......*.*»•.■'''•' ' -' 


19.  Revelation  on  the  Sabbath Aug,  T,  1831. 

71.  Revelation  to  certain  men  to  re- 
turn from  Missouri Aug.  8, 1831. 

72.  Revelation  of  Uestructiona  upon 
the  Waters Aug.  12,  lS3t 

73.  Revelation  to  certain  ciders  on 

the  Hank  of  Missouri Aug.  13, 1831. 

20.  Revelation  to  the  Church  in  Kirt- 
land August,  1!531. 

21.  Revelation  given  In  Klrtland. . .  Sept.  11, 1831. 

24.  Revelation  on  Prayer Cctalwr,  1S31. 

76.  Revelation  to  W.  K.  M'Lcliin...  October,  1831. 

I.  Ilevelatlon,  or  the  Lord's  preface 

to  this  book Nov.  1, 1831. 

26.  Revelation  on  the  tosthnony  of 

tiie  Commandmenta Nov.,  1831. 

22.  Revelation  toO.  Hyde,  I...  and  L. 
Jolinson,  W.  E.  M'LcUln,  and 
Items  of  Ijiw Nov.,  1831.. 

108.  Revelation,  or  Appendix Nov.  3, 1831. 

28.  Revelation  to  O.  Cowdery  and  J. 
Whitmer Nov.,  1S31. 

20.  Revelation  on  Stewanlr^hii^a Nov.,  1S31. 

II.  Revelation  to  J.  Smith,  jun.,  and 

8.  Rigilon Nov.,  1831. 

90.  Revelation  appointing  a  bishop 

in  Klrtland Dec.  4, 1S31. 

29.  Revelation,  elders'  duty  till  Con- 

ference   Jan.  10, 1S32. 

74.  Revelation,  explanation  on  Co- 
rinthians   Jan.,  1S32. 

88.  Revelation  to  several  ciders  in 
Amlieivt .Tan.2.MS32. 

92.  Revelation,  a  Vision Feb.  10, 1S,'!2. 

70.  Revelation  on  the  order  of  Knoch  March,  1S32. 

77.  Revelation  to  Jared  Carter Marcli,  1S32. 

78   Revelation  to  S.  ISurnett March,  1S32. 

SO.  Revelation  to  V.  (.i.  Williams. . .  March,  1832. 
87.  Revelation  on  tlie  order  of  Knoch  April  HO,  1S32. 

89.  Revelation  In  addition  to  the  law  April  .30, 1832. 

4.  Revelation  on  Priesthooil Sept.  22-3,  do. 

0.  Revelation,Parableoftlie Wheat, 

etc Dec.  0,18.32, 

7.  Revelation  called  the  olive  leaf.  I)ec.  2",  l'i;(2. 
81.  Revelation,  a  Word  of  Wisdom,  rcb.27, 1S33. 
S,").  Revelation  concerning  the  keys 

of  the  kingdom Mar.  S,  1S33. 

93.  Revelation  concerning  tlio  Apoc- 

r>-pha Mar.  9, 1833. 

94.  Revelation  on  tlio  order  of  Enoch, 

etc Mnr.1,S1833. 

83.  Revelatlon,John'sreeordofCliristMiiy  0, 1838. 

81.  Revelation  on  tlio  building  of  the 

Lord's  houses May  0, 1S33. 

90.  Revelation  on  Chastening June,  1S33. 

97.  IJevelatlon  showing  the  order  of 

Enoch's  stake Tune  4, 1833. 

82.  Revelation  for  a  scliool  in  Zion  .  Aug.  2, 18:13. 
SO.  Revelation,  Iaws  of  tlu^  Ancients  Aug.  0, 1s;i3. 

79.  Revelation  to  J.  Murdock August,  1.S33. 

9.').  Revelation  to  ,1.  Smith  and  8. 

RIgdon  in  Perryslnirg Oct.  12, 18.33. 

98.  Revelation,  Parable  on  Zion Deo.  10, 1833. 

6.  organization  of  the  High  Coun- 
cil   Feb.  17, 1S34. 

101.  Revelation,  Redemption  of  Zion 

bv  power Feb.  24, 1^34. 

99.  Revelation  on  Enocli's  order  for 

tlu..p(H.r April  23, 1834. 

102.  Revelation   given    on    Fishing 

River.  Mis.'oiiri Juno  23, 1834. 

100.  Revelation  to  Warren  A.  Cow- 
dery   Nov.,  1S34. 

8.  Quorums  of  {'riestlKKvl. 

104.  Revelations  toT.  It.  Marsh  ron- 

cernlnu  the  Twelve July  23, 1837. 


Chap.  IX. 


POLYGAMY. 


878 

rum."  Eespecting  the  connubial  state,  the  Gentile  and  exoteric 
reads  with  astonishment  the  following  sentence  (no  date  but  be- 
tween 1842  and  1843):  "Inasmuch  as  this  Church  of  Christ  has 
been  reproached  with  the  crime  of  fornication  and  polygamy  we 
declare  that  we  believe  that  one  man  should  have  one  wife  and 
one  woman  but  one  husband,  except  in  case  of  death,  when  either 
is  at  liberty  to  marry  again." 

The  polygamic  era  directly  followed  the  monogamic :  it  became 
the  custom  of  the  Church  when,  on  their  toil-conquered  oasis  in 
the  Great  Desert,  the  Mormons  found  themselves  in  comparative 
security.  I  give  in  extenso  the  sole  command  of  heaven  upon  the 
subject  of  ^ 

CELESTIAL  MAKRIAGE: 

A  REVELATION   ON  THE   PATRIAKCnAL   ORDER   OP   MATRIMONY,  OR 
PLURALITY    OP   WIVES. 
Given  to  Josqih  Smith,  the  Seer,  in  Nauvoo,  July  \2th,  1843. 
^    1.  Verily,  then  saith  the  Lord  unto  you,  my  servant  Joseph,  that 
inasmuch  as  you  have  inquired  of  my  liand  to  know  and  understand' 
wherein  I,  the  Lord,  justified  my  servants  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob, 
as  also  Moses,  David,  and  Solomon,  my  servants,  as  touching  the  prin- 
ciple and  doctrine  of  their  having  many  wives  and  concubines:  Be- 
hold, and  lo,  I  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  will  answer  thee  as  touch- 
ing this  matter :  therefore  prepare  thy  heart  to  receive  and  obey  the 
instructions  which  I  am  about  to  give  unto  you ;  for  all  those  who 
have  this  law  revealed  unto  them  must  obey  the  same ;  for  behold, 
I  reveal  unto  you  a  ncv/  and  an  everlasting  covenant ;  and  if  ye  abide 
not  that  covenant,  then  are  ye  damned ;  for  no  one  can  reject  this  cov- 
enant, and  be  permitted  to  enter  into  iny  glory ;  for  all  who  will  have 
a  blessing  at  my  hands  shall  abide  the  law  which  was  appointed  for 
that  blessing,  and  the  conditions  thereof,  as  was  instituted  from  be- 
fore the  foundations  of  the  tvorld;  and  as  i)ertaining  to  the  new  and 
everlasting  covenant,  it  was  instituted  for  the  fullness  of  my  glory  • 
and  he  that  receiveth  a  fullness  thereof  must  and  shall  abide  the  law 
or  he  shall  be  damned,  saith  the  Lord  God.  ' 

2.  And  verily  I  say  unto  you,  that  the  conditions  of  this  law  are 
these :  All  covenants,  contracts,  bonds,  obligations,  oaths,  vows,  per- 
formances, connections,  associations,  or  expectations  that  are  not 
made  and  entered  into,  and  scaled  by  the  Holy  Spirit  of  promise,  of 
him  who  is  anointed,  both  as  well  for  time  and  for  all  eternity,  and 
that,  too,  most  holy,  by  revelation  and  commandment,  through  the 
nicdiuin  of  mine  anointed,  Avliom  I  have  appointed  on  the  earth  to 
hold  this  power  (and  I  have  appointed  unto  my  servant  Joseph  to 
hold  this  power  in  the  last  days,  and  there  is  never  but  one  on  the 
earth  at  a  time  on  whom  this  power  and  the  keys  of  the  priesthood 
are  conferred),  are  of  no  efficacy,  virtue,  or  force  in  and  after  the  res- 


8<r. 

107.  RovrlatlonK,  Tlthlns July  S,  1S38. 

1(13.  It^vcliitioiw  (111  V'o  Tiniple  niiJ 

Nniivoii  hnnKB Inn.  10,  l^Ht. 

ion.  J.  Sinltli'«  ndiln^ns fli'pt.  1,  H4'.'. 

100.  J.  Smltli'B  mtdruu Sept.  0, 1842. 


S«f. 

lost.  Marrinpp. 

110.  (iciviTiimpnta  ami  laws  In  gen- 

oral. 

111.  Miirtyriinm  of  Joseph  aud  Ily- 
rum  Smith. 


374 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CnAF.  DC. 


urrection  from  the  dead ;  for  all  contracts  that  are  not  made  tinto 
this  end  have  an  end  when  men  are  dead. 

3.  Behold,  mine  house  is  a  house  of  order,  saith  the  Lord  God,  and 
not  a  house  of  confusion.  Will  I  accept  of  an  offering,  saith  the  Lord, 
that  is  not  made  in  ray  name  ?  Or  will  I  receive  at  your  hands  that 
which  I  have  not  appointed  ?  And  will  I  appoint  unto  you,  saith  the 
Lord,  except  it  be  by  law,  even  as  I  and  my  Father  ordained  unto 
you  before  the  world  was  ?  I  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  I  give  imto 
you  this  commandment,  that  no  man  shall  come  unto  the  Father  but 
by  me,  or  by  ray  word  which  is  my  law,  saith  the  Lord ;  and  every 
thing  that  is  in  the  world,  whether  it  be  ordained  of  men,  by  thrones, 
or  principalities,  or  powers,  or  things  of  name,  whatsoever  they  may 
be,  that  are  not  by  me,  or  by  my  word,  saith  the  Lord,  shall  be  thrown 
down,  and  shall  not  remain  after  men  are  dead,  neither  in  nor  after 
the  resurrection,  saith  the  Lord  your  God ;  for  whatsoever  things  re- 
maineth  are  by  me,  and  whatsoever  things  are  not  by  me  shall  be 
shaken  and  destroyed. 

4.  Therefore,  if  a  man  marry  liim  a  wife  in  the  world,  and  he  mar- 
ry her  not  by  me,  nor  by  my  word,  and  he  covenant  with  her  so  long 
as  he  is  in  the  world,  and  she  with  him,  their  covenant  and  marriage 
is  not  of  force  when  they  are  dead,  and  when  they  are  out  of  the 
world  ;  therefore  they  are  not  bound  by  any  law  when  they  are  out 
of  the  world  ;  therefore,  when  they  are  out  of  the  world,  they  neither 
marry  nor  are  given  in  marriage,  but  are  appointed  angels  in  heaven, 
which  angels  arc  ministering  servants,  to  minister  for  those  who  are 
worthy  of  a  far  more  and  an  exceeding  and  an  eternal  weight  of  glo- 
ry ;  for  these  angels  did  not  abide  my  law,  therefore  they  can  not  bo 
enlarged,  but  remain  separately  and  singly,  without  exaltation,  in 
their  saved  condition,  to  all  eternity,  and  from  henceforth  are  not 
gods,  but  are  angels  of  God  forever  and  ever. 

5.  And  again,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  if  a  man  marry  a  wife,  and 
make  a  covenant  with  her  for  time  and  for  all  eternity,  if  that  cove- 
nant is  not  by  me  or  by  my  word,  which  is  my  law,  and  is  not  sealed 
by  the  Holy  Spirit  of  promise,  through  him  Avhom  I  have  anointed 
and  appointed  unto  this  power,  then  it  is  not  valid,  neither  offeree, 
when  they  are  out  of  the  world,  because  they  are  not  joined  by  me, 
saith  the  Lord,  neither  by  my  word ;  Avhen  they  are  out  of  the  world, 
it  can  not  bo  received  there,  because  the  angels  and  the  god.:  are  ap- 
pointed there,  by  whom  tlicy  can  not  pass :  they  can  not,  therefore, 
inherit  my  glory,  for  my  house  is  a  house  of  order,  saith  the  Lord 
God. 

C.  And  again,  verily  I  say  imto  you,  if  a  man  marry  a  wife  by  my 
word,  Avhich  is  my  law,  and  by  the  new  and  everlasting  covenant, 
and  it  is  sealed  unto  them  by  the  Holy  Spirit  of  promise,  by  him  who 
is  anointed,  unto  whom  I  have  appointed  this  power,  and  the  keys  of 
this  priestliood,  and  it  shall  be  said  unto  them,  ye  shall  come  forth  in 
tlie  first  resurrection  ;  and  if  it  be  after  the  first  resurrection,  in  the 
next  resurrection  ;  .and  shall  inherit  thrones,  kingdoms,  principalities, 
and  powers,  dominions,  all  heights  and  depths,  then  shall  it  be  written 
in  the  Lamb's  Book  of  Life  that  he  shall  commit  no  murder  whereby 
to  shed  innocent  blood ;  and  if  ye  abide  in  my  covenant,  and  commit 


Cdap.  IX. 


POLYGAMY  REVEALED. 


876 


no  murder  whereby  to  shed  innocent  blood,  it  shall  be  done  unto 
them  m  all  thuigg  whatsoever  my  servant  hath  put  upon  them  in 
time  and  through  all  eternity,  and  shall  be  of  full  force  when  thev 
are  out  of  the  Avorld;  and  they  shall  pass  by  the  angels,  and  the 
gods  which  are  set  there,  to  their  exaltation  and  glory  in  all  thines 
as  hath  been  sealed  upon  their  heads,  which  glory  shall  bo  a  fullness 
and  a  continuation  of  the  seeds  forever  and  ever. 
v.\\  '^}^^^^J'^f^  they  be  gods, because  they  have  no  end;  therefore 
shall  they  be  from  everlasting  to  everlasting, because  they  continue; 
tlien  shall  they  be  above  all,  because  all  things  are  subject  unto  them! 
Ihen  shall  they  be  gods,  because  they  have  all  power,  and  the  ancels 
are  subject  unto  them. 

8.  Verily,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  except  ye  abide  my  law,  ye  can 
not  attain  to  this  glory;  for  straight  is  the  gate  and  narrow  the  way 
that  leadt'th  unto  the  exaltation  and  continuation  of  the  lives,  and  few 
there  be  that  find  it,  because  ye  receive  me  not  in  the  world,  neither 
do  ye  know  me.  But  if  ye  receive  me  in  the  world,  then  shall  ye 
knovv  me,  and  shall  receive  vour  exaltation,  that  where  I  am  ye  shall 
be  also.  Ihis  is  eternal  life,  to  know  the  only  wise  and  true  God, 
and  Jesus  Christ  whom  he  hath  sent.  I  am  he.  Receive  ye,  there- 
fore, my  law.  Broad  is  the  gate  and  wide  the  way  that  leadeth  to 
death,  and  many  there  are  that  go  in  thereat,  because  they  receive 
me  not,  neither  do  they  abide  in  my  law. 

9.  Verily,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  if  a  man  marry  a  wife  according 
to  my  word,  and  they  are  sealed  by  the  Holy  Spirit  of  promise  a^ 
cording  to  mine  appointment,  and  lie  or  she  shall  commit  any  sin  or 
transgression  of  the  new  and  everlasting  covenant  whatever,  and  all 
manner  of  blasphemies,  and  if  they  commit  no  murder  wherein  they 
shed  innocent  blood,  yet  they  shall  come  forth  in  the  first  resurrec- 
tion, and  enter  into  their  exaltation,  but  they  shall  be  destroyed  in 
the  flesh,  and  shall  be  delivered  unto  the  buffetings  of  Satan  unto 
the  day  of  redemption,  saitli  the  Lord  God. 

10.  The  blasphemy  against  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  shall  not  be  for- 
given in  the  world  nor  out  of  the  world,  is  in  that  ye  commit  murder 
wherein  ye  shed  innocent  blood,  and  assent  unto  my  death  after  ye 
have  received  my  new  and  everlasting  covenant,  saith  the  Lord  God ; 
and  ho  that  abideth  not  this  law  can  in  nowise  enter  into  my  glory, 
but  shall  be  damned,  saith  the  Lord. 

11. 1  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  will  give  unto  thee  the  law  of  my 
holy  priesthood,  as  was  ordained  by  me,  and  my  Father  before  the 
world  Avas.  Abraham  received  all  things,  whatsoever  he  received, 
by  revelation  and  commandment,  by  my  Avord,  saith  the  Lord,  and 
hath  entered  into  his  exaltation,  and  sitteth  upon  his  throne. 

12.  Abraham  received  promises  concerning  his  seed  and  of  the  fruit 
of  his  loins— from  whose  loins  ye  are,  viz.,  my  servant  Joseph — which 
were  to  continue  so  long  as  they  were  in  the  world ;  and  as  touching 
Abraham  and  his  seed  out  of  the  world,  they  should  continue;  both 
in  the  world  and  out  of  the  world  should  they  continue  as  innumera- 
ble as  the  stars ;  or,  if  ye  were  to  count  the  sand  upon  the  sea-shore, 
ye  could  not  number  them.  This  promise  is  yours  also,  because  ye 
are  of  Abraham,  and  the  promise  was  made  unto  Abraham;  and  by 


III 
I' I 

n 
1  •  ■  I 


376 


THE  CITY  OF  TUE  SAINTS. 


Chap  IX. 


this  law  are  the  continuation  of  tho  works  of  my  Father,  wherein  he 
glorifieth  himself.  Go  ye,  therefore,  and  do  tho  works  of  Abraham ; 
enter  ye  into  my  law,  and  ye  shall  bo  saved.  But  if  ye  enter  not  into 
my  law  ye  can  not  receive  tho  promises  of  ray  Father  which  he  made 
unto  Abraham. 

13.  God  commanded  Abraham,  and  Sarah  gave  Ilagar  to  Abra- 
ham to  wife.  And  why  did  she  do  it  ?  Because  this  was  tho  law, 
and  from  Ilagar  sprang  many  people.  This,  therefore,  was  fulfilling, 
among  other  things,  the  promises.  Was  Abraham,  therefore,  under 
condemnation  ?  Verily,  I  say  unto  you,  Nay  ;  for  I,  the  Lord,  com- 
manded it.  Abraham  was  commanded  to  offer  his  son  Isaac ;  nev- 
ertheless, it  M'as  written,  Thou  shalt  not  kill.  Abraham,  however,  did 
not  refuse,  and  it  was  accounted  unto  him  for  righteousness. 

14.  Abraham  received  concubines,  and  they  bare  him  children,  and 
it  was  accounted  unto  him  for  righteousness,  because  they  were  given 
unto  him  for  righteousness,  because  they  were  given  unto  him,  and 
he  abode  in  ray  law ;  as  Isaac  also,  and  Jacob  did  none  other  things 
than  that  which  they  were  commanded,  and  because  they  did  none 
other  things  than  that  which  they  were  commanded,  they  have  en- 
tered into  their  exaltation,  according  to  the  promises,  and  sit  upon 
thrones ;  and  are  not  angels,  but  are  gods.  David  also  received 
many  wives  and  concubines,  as  also  Solomon,  and  Moses  my  servant ; 
and  also  many  others  of  my  servants,  from  the  beginning  of  creation 
until  this  time ;  and  in  nothing  did  they  sin  save  in  those  things 
which  they  received  not  of  me. 

15.  Dayid's  wives  and  concubines  were  given  unto  him,  of  mo,  by 
the  hand  of  Nathan,  ray  servant,  and  others  of  the  prophets  who  liad 
the  keys  of  this  power ;  and  in  none  of  these  things  did  he  sin  against 
mc,  save  in  the  case  of  Uriah  and  his  wife ;  and  therefore  he  hath 
fallen  from  his  exaltation,  and  received  his  portion ;  an<l  he  shall  not 
inherit  them  out  of  tho  world ;  for  I  gave  them  unto  another,  saith 
the  Lord. 

16.  I  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  I  gave  unto  thee,  ray  servant  Jo- 
seph, an  appointment,  and  to  restore  all  things ;  ask  what  ye  will,  and 
it  shall  be  given  unto  you,  according  to  my  word;  and  as  yc  liavc 
asked  concerning  adultery,  verily,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  if  a  man  vc- 
ceiveth  a  wife  in  the  new  and  everlasting  covenant,  and  if  she  be  with 
another  man,  and  I  have  not  appohited  unto  her  by  the  holy  anoint- 
ing, she  hath  committed  adultery,  and  shall  be  destroyed.  If  she  bo 
not  in  the  new  and  everlasting  covenant,  and  she  be  Avith  another 
man,  she  has  committed  adultery ;  and  if  her  husband  be  Avith  anoth- 
er woman,  and  ho  was  under  a  vow,  he  hath  bro^  ■.  ■  his  vow,  and  h.ith 
committed  adultery;  and  'T  she  hath  not  couinntiiii  ,;uli;'tcry,but  is 
innocent,  and  hath  not  broken  her  vow,  and  sh'  I  ""(n;  ill  %  and  I  re 
veal  it  unto  you,  my  servant  Joseph,  then  sh...:  ;  a  iiavo  power,  by 
the  power  of  my  holy  priesthood,  to  take  her  and  give  her  unto  him 
that  hath  not  committed  adultery,  but  hath  been  faithful,  for  he  shall 
be  made  ruler  over  many ;  for  I  have  conferred  upon  you  tlio  keys 
and  power  of  tho  prio^'iiood,  wherein  I  restore  all  things,  and  make 
known  unto  you  all  t      p:8  in  due  time. 

17.  And  verily,  ven.j  I  say  unto  you, that  whatsoever  you  seal  on 


Chap.  IX. 


POLYGAMY  REVEALED. 


877 


earth  shall  be  sealed  in  heaven ;  and  whatsoever  yon  bind  on  earth 
in  my  name  and  by  my  word,  Haith  the  Lord,  it  shall  be  eternally 
bound  m  the  heavens ;  and  whosesoever  sins  you  remit  on  earth  shnill 
be  remitted  eternally  in  the  heavens ;  and  whosesoever  sins  ye  retain 
on  earth,  shall  be  retained  in  heaven. 

18.  And  again,  verily  I  say,  whomsoever  you  bless  I  will  bless  and 
whomsoever  you  curse  I  will  curse,  saitb  the  Lord ;  for  I,  the  Lord 
am  thy  God.  ' 

19.  And  again,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  my  servant  Joseph,  that  what- 
soever you  give  on  earth,  and  to  whomsoever  you  give  any  one  on 
earth,  by  my  word,  and  according  to  my  law,  it  shall  be  visited  Avith 
blessnigs,  and  not  cursings,  and  with  my  power,  saith  the  Lord,  and 
shall  be  without  condemnation  on  earth  and  in  heaven ;  for  I  am  the 
Lord  thy  God,  and  will  be  with  thee  even  imto  the  end  of  the  world, 
and  through  all  eternity ;  for  verily  I  seal  upon  you  your  exaltation,' 
and  prepare  a  throne  for  you  in  the  kingdom  of  my  Father  with  Abra- 
ham your  father.  Behold,  I  have  seen  your  sacrifices,  and  will  for- 
give all  your  sins ;  I  have  seen  your  sacrifices  in  obedience  to  that 
which  I  have  told  you :  go,  therefore,  and  I  make  a  way  for  your  es- 
cape, as  I  accepted  the  offering  of  Abraham  of  his  sou  Isaac. 

20.  Verily  I  say  unto  you,  a  commandment  I  give  unto  mine  hand- 
maid, Emma  Smith,  your  Avife,  whom  I  have  given  unto  you,  that  she 
stay  herself,  and  partake  not  of  that  which  I  commanded  you  to  of- 
fer unto  her ;  for  I  did  it,  saith  the  Lord,  to  prove  you  all,  as  I  did 
Abraham,  and  that  I  might  require  an  offering  at  your  hand  by  cov- 
enant and  sacrifice ;  and  let  mine  handmaid,  Emma  Smith,  receive  all 
those  that  have  been  given  unto  my  servant  Joseph,  and  who  arc 
virtuous  and  pure  before  me ;  and  those  who  are  not  pure,  and  have 
said  they  are  pure,  shall  be  destroyed,  saith  the  Lord  God ;  for  I  am 
the  Lord  thy  God,  and  ye  shall  obey  my  voice :  and  I  give  unto  my 
servant  Joseph  that  he  shall  bo  made  ruler  over  many  things,  for  ho 
hath  been  faithful  over  a  few  things,  and  from  henceforth  I  will 
strengthen  him. 

21.  And  I  command  mine  handmaid,  Emma  Smith,  to  abide  and 
cleave  unto  my  servant  Joseph,  and  to  none  else.  But  if  she  will 
not  abide  this  commandment,  she  shall  be  destroyed,  saith  the  Lord ; 
for  I  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  will  destroy  her  if  she  abide  not  in 
my  law ;  but  if  she  will  not  abide  this  commandment,  then  lihall  my 
servant  Joseph  do  all  things  for  her,  even  as  he  hath  said ;  and  I  will 
bless  him,  and  multiply  him,  and  give  unto  him  an  hundred-fold  in 
this  world,  ot  fathers  and  mothers,  brothers  and  sisters,  houses  and 
lands,  wives  and  children,  and  crowns  of  eternal  lives  in  the  eternal 
worlds.  And  again,  verily  I  say,  let  mine  handmaid  forgive  my  serv- 
ant Joseph  hia  trespasses,  and  then  shall  she  be  forgiven  her  trespass- 
es wherein  she  has  trespassed  against  me ;  and  I,  the  Lord  thy  God, 
will  bless  her  and  multiply  her,  and  make  her  heart  to  rejoice. 

22.  And  again  I  say,  let  not  my  servant  Joseph  put  his  property 
out  of  his  hands,  lest  an  enemy  come  and  destroy  him,  for  Satan  seek- 
eth  to  destroy;  fi^r  I  am  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  he  is  my  servant; 
and  behold,  and  lo,I  am  with  him,  as  I  was  with  Abraham  thy  lather, 
even  unto  his  exaltation  and  glory. 


liii?l 


878 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SHUNTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


23.  Now,  as  touching  the  law  of  the  priesthood,  there  are  many- 
things  pertaining  thereunto.  Verily,  if  a  man  be  called  of  my  Fa- 
ther,  as  was  Aaron,  by  mine  own  voice,  and  by  the  voice  of  him  that 
sent  me,  and  I  have  endowed  him  with  the  keys  of  the  power  of  this 
priesthood,  if  he  do  any  thing  in  my  name,  and  according  to  my  law, 
and  by  my  word,  he  will  nofcomnut  sin,  and  I  will  justify  him.  Let 
no  one,  therefore,  set  on  my  servant  Joseph;  for  I  will  justify  him; 
for  he  shall  do  the  sacrifice  which  I  require  at  his  hands, for  his  trans, 
grcssions,  saith  the  Lord  your  God. 

24.  And  again,  as  pertaining  to  the  law  of  the  priesthood :  If  any 
man  espouse  a  virgin,  and  desire  to  esjiouse  another,  and  the  first 
give  her  consent;  and  if  he  espouse  the  second,  and  they  are  virgins, 
and  have  vowed  to  no  other  man,  then  is  he  justified;  he  can  not 
commit  adultery,  for  they  are  given  unto  him ;  for  he  can  not  com- 
mit adultery  Avitli  that  that  belongeth  unto  them,  and  to  none  else: 
and  if  he  have  ten  virgins  given  unto  him  by  this  law,  lie  can  not 
commit  adultery,  for  they  belong  to  him,  and  they  are  given  unto 
lam;  theref\)rc  is  ho  justified.  But  if  one,  or  either  of  the  ten  vir- 
gins, after  she  is  espoused,  shall  be  with  another  man,  she  has  com- 
mitted adultery,  and  shall  be  destroyed  ;  for  they  are  given  mito  him 
to  nuiltiply  and  replenish  the  earth,  according  to  my  commandment, 
and  to  fulfill  the  promise  which  w.as  given  by  my  Father  before  tho 
foundation  of  the  world,  aiid  for  their  ex.altation  in  the  eternal  worlds, 
that  they  may  bear  the  souls  of  men  ;  for  herein  is  the  work  of  my 
Father  continued,  that  he  may  be  glorified. 

25.  And  again,  verily,  verily  I  say  unto  you,  if  any  man  have  a 
wife  who  holds  the  keys  of  this  power,  and  he  teaches  unto  her  tho 
law  of  my  priesthoo^  as  pertaining  to  these  things,  then  shall  she  be- 
lieve, and  administer  unto  him,  or  she  shall  be  destroyed,  saith  tho 
Lord  your  God ;  for  I  will  destroy  her ;  for  I  will  magnify  my  n.amo 
upon  all  those  who  receive  and  abide  in  my  law.  Therefore  it  shall 
be  lawful  in  me,  if  she  receive  not  this  law,  for  him  to  receive  all 
things  whatsoever  I,  the  Lord  his  God,  will  give  unto  him,  because 
she  did  not  believe  and  administer  unto  him,  according  to  my  word; 
and  she  then  becomes  ihe  transgressor,  and  ho  is  exempt  from  tho 
law  of  Sarah,  who  administered  unto  Abraham  according  to  the  law, 
when  1  commanded  Abraham  to  take  Ilagar  to  wife.  And  now,  as 
pertaining  to  this  law:  Verily,  verily  I  s.-iy  unto  you, I  will  reveal 
ru)re  unto  you  hereafter;  therefore  let  this  suflice  for  the  present. 
Behold,  I  am  Ali)ha  and  Omega.     AmcJi. 

Following  tbo  revelation  is  this  cxi)lanation: 

ri.iHM.iTV  OF  "NVivKs  is  a  doctrine  very  jiopular  among  most  of 
mankind  at  the  jtresent  day.  It  is  practiced  by  the  nu)st  powerful 
n.'itions  of  Asia  and  Africa,' and  by  numerous  nations  inhabiting  tho 
isl.'Uiils  of  the  sea,  and  by  the  aboriginal  nations  of  the  great  western 
liemisphere.  The  one-wife  system  is  confined  principally  to  ji  few 
small  nations  iidiabitiiii,'  Furope,  and  to  those  who  are  of  Kuropean 
origin  inhabiting  America.  It  is  cstim.ited  by  the  nu)st  able  histori- 
nns'of  our  day  that  about  \iur  fifths  of  the  population  of  the  globe 
believe  and  ]»|-!ictice,  according  to  their  respective  laws,  the  doetriiio 
of  n  plurality  of  wives.    If  the  poi)ularity  of  a  doctrine  is  in  proper- 


Ciixp.  IX. 


POLYGAMY  EXPLAmED. 


879 


tion  to  tlie  numbers  who  believe  in  it,tlien  it  follows  that  the  plural- 
ity/ system  is  four  times  more  popular  among  the  inhabitants  of  the 
eartii  than  the  one-tcife  system. 

Those  nations  who  practice  the  plurality  doctrine  consider  it  as 
virtuous  and  as  right  for  one  man  to  have  many  Avivos  as  to  have 
one  only.  Therefore  they  have  enacted  laws  rtot  only  giving  this 
right  to  thcii  citizens,  but  also  protecting  them  in  it,  and  punishing 
all  those  who  infringe  upon  the  chastity  of  the  marriage  covenan° 
by  committing  adultery  with  any  one  of  the  wives  of  his  neighbor. 
Those  nations  do  not  consider  it  possible  for  a  man  to  commit'  adul- 
tery with  any  one  of  those  women  to  Avhom  ho  has  been  legally  mar- 
ried according  to  their  laws.  The  posterity  raised  up  unto  the  hus- 
band through  each  of  his  wives  are  all  considered  to  be  legitimate, 
and  provisions  are  made  in  their  laws  for  those  children  the  same  as 
if  they  were  the  children  of  one  Avife.  Adulteries,  fornications,  and 
all  uuvirtuous  conduct  between  the  sexes  are  severely  punished  by 
them.  Indeed,  plurality  among  them  is  considered  not  only  virtuous 
and  right,  but  a  great  check  or  preventive  .igainst  adulteries  ami  un- 
lawful connections,  Avhich  arc  among  the  greatest  evils  with  Avhich 
nations  are  cursed,  producing  a  vast  amount  of  suftering  and  niiserj'-, 
devastation  and  death ;  undermining  the  very  foundations  of  happi- 
ness, and  destroying  the  frame-Avork  of  society  and  the  peace  of  tho 
domestic  circle. 

Some  of  the  nations  of  Europe  who  believe  in  the  one-Avifo  system 
have  actually  forbidden  a  plurality  of  wives  by  their  laws,  and  tho 
consequences  are  that  the  Avhole  country  among  them  is  overrun 
Avith  tho  most  abominable  ])racticcs ;  adulteries  and  unlaAvful  con- 
nections prevail  through  all  their  villages,  toAvns,  cities,  and  country 
jilaces  to  a  most  fearful  extent.  And  among  some  of  those  nations 
those  sinks  of  Avickedness,  wretchedness,  and  misery  are  licensed  by 
law,  while  tlieir  piety  would  bo  wonderfully  shocked  to  authorize  by 
law  the  i)lurality  system,  as  adoi>ted  by  many  neighboring  nations. 

The  Constitution  and  laws  of  the  United  States,  being  foiuuled 
upon  the  priuciitles  of  freedom,  do  not  interfere  Avith  marriage  lela- 
tioiis,l)ut  leave  the  nation  free  to  believe  in  and  i)ractice  the  tfoclrino 
of  a  plurality  of  wives,  or  to  confine  themselves  to  the  one-Avifo  sys- 
tein,just  as  they  choose.  This  is  as  it  should  be:  it  leaves  tho  con- 
Kcionce  of  man  untrauuneled,  and,  so  long  as  he  injures  no  ])erson, 
and  does  not  infringe  upon  the  rights  of  others,  lie  is  free  by  the  Con- 
stitution to  marrv  one  wife,  or  many,  or  none  at  all,  and  becomes  ac- 
countable to  God  for  tho  righteousness  or  unrighteousness  of  his  do- 
mestic relations. 

The  Constitution  leaves  tho  several  States  and  Territories  to  enact 
Rueh  laws  as  they  see  proper  in  regard  to  marriages,  provided  that 
they  do  not  infringe  \ip()n  the  rights  of  conscience  and  the  Ii1)ertie9 
guaranteed  in  that  sacred  dociunent.  Therelitre,if  any  Slate  or  Ter- 
ritory feels  disposeil  to  enact  laws  guarant(<eing  to  each  of  its  citi- 
zen«*  the  right  to  marry  many  wives,  such  laws  would  be  perfectly 
coiistitutioiuil;  hence  the  several  States  aiul  Territories  practice  the 
one-wife  system  out  of  choice,  ami  not  because  they  are  imder  any 
obligations  so  to  do  by  the  national  Constitution.     Indeed,  wu  doubt 


'i 


,;  I  'J 


1^ 


I 

i 

1 

is 

«i^^M 

.       t 

380 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  IX, 


very  much  wliether  any  State  or  Torritorjr  has  the  constitutional 
right  to  make  laws  prohibiting  the  plurality  doctrine  in  cases  where 
it  is  practiced  by  religious  societies  as  a  matter  of  conscience  or  as  a 
doctrine  of  their  religious  faith.  The  first  Article  of  the  Amend- 
ments to  the  Constitution  says  expressly  that  "  Congress  shall  make 
no  law  respecting  oA  establishment  oi  VQVigxon^ov  2)rohibiting  the  free 
exercise  thereof.''''  Now,if  even  Congress  itself  has  no  power  to  pass 
IV  law  "  prohibiting  the  free  exercise  of  religion,"  much  less  has  any 
State  or  Territory  power  to  jjass  such  an  act. 

The  doctrine  of  a  plurality  of  wives  was  believed  and  practiced  by 
Abraham,  the  flvther  of  the  faithful ;  and  we  find  that,  while  in  this 
practice,  the  anf.''  Is  of  God  frequently  ministered  to  him,  and  at  one 
time  dined  with  iiim ;  and  God  manifested  himself  to  him,  and  en- 
tered into  familiar  conversation  with  him.  Neither  (iod  nor  his  an- 
gels reproved  Abrahani  for  being  a  polygamist,but,  on  the  contrary, 
the  Almighty  greatly  blessed  him,  and  made  ])romises  unto  him,  con- 
cerning both  Isaac  and  Ishmael,  clearly  showing  that  Abraham  ])rac- 
ticed  what  is  called  jjolygamy  under  the  sanction  of  the  Almiglity. 
Now  if  the  father  of  the' iaithful  was  thus  blessed,  certainly  it  should 
not  be  considered  irreligious  for  the  faithful,  who  are  called  his  chil- 
dren, to  walk  in  the  steps  of  their  father  Abraham.  Indeed,  if  the 
Lord  himself,  through  his  holy  prophets,  should  give  more  M-ives 
unto  his  servants,  as  he  gave  them  unto  the  ])rophet  David,  it  would 
be  a  great  sin  for  them  to  refuse  that  Avhich  he  gives.  In  such  a 
case,  it  would  become  a  matter  of  conscience  with  them,  and  a  part 
of  their  religion,  and  they  would  be  bound  to  exercise  their  faith  in 
this  doctrine,  and  pr.actice  it,  or  be  condemned ;  therefore  Congress 
would  have  no  power  to  prohibit  the  free  c\"rcise  of  this  part  of 
their  religion,  neither  would  the  States  or  Territories  have  power 
constitutionally  to  pass  a  law  "prohibiting  the  free  exercise  thereof." 
Now  a  certain  religious  society,  called  Sliakers,  believe  it  to  be  wrong 
for  tln'm  to  marry  even  one  wife ;  it  certainly  would  be  unconstitu- 
tional for  either  the  Congress  or  the  St.ates  to  pass  a  law  coniju'lling 
all  people  to  marry  at  a  cert.ain  .nge,  because  it  would  infringe  ui»ou 
the  rights  of  conscience  among  the  Shakers,  and  they  would  be  pro- 
liibiteil  the  free  exercise  of  their  religion. 

From  the  foregoing  revelation,  given  through  Josepli  the  Seer,  it 
will  be  seen  that  (Jod  has  actu.ally  conunanded  sonui  of  his  servants 
to  take  more  wives,  and  has  pointed  out  certain  duties  in  regard  to 
the  marriage  ceremony,  sliowmg  that  they  must  be  married  for  time 
and  for  all  eternitv,  and  showing  the  advantages  to  be  derived  in  a 
future  state  by  this  eternal  union;  .and  showing  still  liu'ther  that,  !f 
they  refused  to  obey  this  command,  atler  liaving  the  law  revealed  to 
them,  they  should  bo  damned.  This  revelation,  then,  m.akes  it  a  mat- 
ter of  conscience  among  all  the  L.atler-I)ay  Saints;  and  they  embrace 
it  as  u  jiart  and  jiorlion  of  their  religion,  and  verily  believe  that  they 
can  not  be  saved  and  reject  it.  Has  Congress  power,  then,  to  jiass 
lawH  "  prohibiting"  the  ('hurch  of  Jesus  Christ  «)f  Latter-l)ay  Saints 
'■'•thvfne  Lirrrlsi"  uf  tiiis  article  oftluir  religion?  Have  any  oftlie 
States  or  Territories  a  constitutional  right  to  pass  laws  "prohibiting 
the  free  cxorciso  of  the  religion"  which  the  Church  oftlie  Saints  con- 


Chap.  IX. 


roLYGAisry  exi'lained. 


381 


scientionsly  and  sincerely  believe  to  bo  essential  to  their  salvation' 
No,  tlicy  have  no  such  right.  • 

The  Lattcr-I)ay  Saints^iavo  the  most  implicit  confidence  in  ill  tbo 
revelations  given  through  Joseph  the  Prophet,  and  they  .vould  niuch 
sooner  lay  down  their  lives  and  suffer  martyrdom  than  to  denv  the 
least  revelation  that  was  ever  given  to  him.  In  one  of  the  revcln 
tions  through  Jnm,  wo  read  that  God  raised  up  wise  men  and  ins,'i?cd 
them  to  write  the  Constitution  of  our  countrv,  that  the  freedom  of 
the  people  might  be  mamtained,  according  to  the  free  agency  which 
he  had  given  to  them;  that  every  man  might  be  accountable  to  God 
and  not  to  man,  so  far  as  religious  doctrines  and  conscience  are  con- 
cerned. And  the  more  we  examine  that  sacred  instrument,  framed 
by  the  wisdom  of  our  illustrious  fathers,  the  more  we  are  compelled 
to  believe  that  an  invisible  power  controlled,  dictated,  and  guided 
them  m  hying  the  foundation  of  liberty  and  freedom  upon  this^  great 
western  hemisphere.  To  this  land  the  Mohammedan-the  Hindoo 
-the  Chinese  can  emigrate,  and  each  bring  with  him  his  score  of 
wives  and  his  hundred  children,  and  the  glorious  Constitution  of  our 
conn  ry  will  not  interfere  with  his  domestic  relations.  Under  S 
broad  banner  ot  the  Constitution,  he  is  protected  in  all  his  family  as- 
sociations ;  none  have  a  right  to  tear  any  of  his  wives  or  his  children 
fi-oni  him  bo,  likewise  under  the  broad  folds  of  the  Constitutiom 
the  Legislative  Assembly  of  the  Territory  of  Utah  have  the  rig!  To 
pass  laws  regulating  their  matrimonial  relations,  and  protecting  eacli 
ot  their  citizens  m  the  right  of  marrying  one  or  many  wives,  as  the 
case  may  be.  If  Congijss  should  repeal  those  laws,  they  could  not 
do  so  on  the  ground  of  their  being  unconstitutional.  And  even  if 
Congress  should  repeal  them,  there  still  would  bo  no  law  in  Utah 
prohibiting  the  free  exercise  of  that  religious  right;  neither  do  the 
ci  izens  ot  Uah  feel  disposed  to  ])ass  such  an  unconstitutional  act 
which  would  infringe  upon  the  most  sacred  rights  of  conscience. 

Jr.adition  and  custom  liave  great  intluence  over  nations.  Lono-. 
established  customs,  whether  right  or  wrong,  become  sacred  in  tlio 
estimation  of  mankind.  Those  nations  who  have  been  accustomed 
from  time  immemorial  to  the  practice  of  Avhat  is  called  polygamy 
would  cniisidor  a  law  abolishing  it  as  the  very  height  of  injustice  and 
oppression;  the  very  idea  of  being  limited  to  the  one-wife  system 
would  be  considered  not  only  o])pressive  and  unjust,  but  absolutely 
absurd  and  riiliculous;  it  would  be  considered  iin  innovation  upon 
the  long-established  usages,  customs,  and  laws  of  numerous  and  pow- 
erful nations;  nn  innovation  of  the  most  dangerous  character,  calcu- 
lated to  destroy  the  most  sacred  rights  and  jtrivileges  of  family  asso- 
ciations—to upset  the  very  foundations  of  individual  rights,  rendered 
dear  and  sacred  by  being  handed  down  to  them  from  the  most  re- 
mote ag«>s  of  aiiti(iuity. 

On  the  other  iiand,the  Kuro])ean  nations  who  liavo  been  for  cen- 
turies restricted  by  law  to  the  one-wife  theory  would  consider  it  a 
shocking  innovation  upon  the  customs  of  their  lathers  to  abolish  their 
restrictive  laws,  and  to  give  freedom  and  liberty  .according  to  the 
plurality  system.  It  is  eiisloni,  then,  in  a  great  degree,  that  forms 
Iho  conscieiico  uf  nations  and  individuals  in  rv^iwd  to  tho  marriage 


PI ; 


f'.| 


882 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


relationsliipg.  Custom  causes  four  fifths  of  the  population  of  the 
globe  to  (leciclo  that  polygamy,  as  it  is  called,  is  a  good,  and  not  an 
evil  practice ;  custom  causes  the  balance,  or  the  remaining  fifth,  to 
decide  in  opposition  to  the  great  majority. 

Tliose  individuals  who  have  strength  of  mind  sufiicient  to  divest 
themselves  entirely  from  the  influence  of  custom,  and  examine  the 
doctrine  of  a  plurality  of  wives  under  the  light  of  reason  and  revela- 
tion, will  be  forced  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  a  doctrine  of  divine 
origin ;  that  it  was  embraced  and  practiced  under  the  divine  sanc- 
tion by  the  most  righteous  men  who  ever  lived  on  the  earth :  holy 
prophets  and  patriarchs,  who  were  inspired  by  the  Holy  Ghost — who 
wore  ein-apt  in  the  visions  of  the  Almighty — who  conversed  with 
holy  angels — who  saw  God  face  to  face,  and  talked  Avith  him  as  a 
man  talks  with  liis  friend — were  "  polygamists,"  that  is,  they  had 
mauy  Avives — raised  up  many  children  by  them — and  Avere  never  re- 
proved by  the  Holy  Ghost,  nor  by  angels,  nor  by  the  Almighty,  for 
believing  in  and  practicing  such  a  doctrine ;  on  the  contrary,  each 
one  of  these  "polygamists"  received  by  revelation  promises  and  bless- 
ings for  himself,  for  his  Avives,  and  for  his  numerous  children  born 
unto  him  by  his  nuinerons  Avivcs.     Moreover,  the  Lord  himself  gave 
revelation  to  dilferent  Avives  belonging  to  the  same  man,  revealing  to 
them  the  great  blessings  Avhich  should  rest  upon  their  i)osterity ;  an- 
gels also  Avere  sent  to  comfort  and  bless  them ;  and  in  no  instance  do 
Ave  find  them  reproved  for  having  joined  themselves  in  marriage  to 
a  "  ])olygamist."     Indeed,  the  Lord  himself  gave  laws  not  to  jjrohibit 
"polygamy,"  but  showing  his  Avill  in  rehition  to  the  children  rai;^ed 
up  by  the  different  Avives  of  the  same  man ;  and,  furthermore,  the 
Lord  himself  actually  oflioiated  in  giving  David  all  the  Avivcs  of  Saul; 
this  occurred,  too,  Avhen  David  already  hud  several  Avives  Avhich  ho 
had  previously  taken:  therefore,  as  the  Lord  did  actually  give  into 
Daviil's  oAvn  bosom  all  the  Avives  of  Saul,  he  must  not  only  have 
sanctioned  "  polyg.'imy,''  but  established  and  instituted  it  upon  a  sure 
foundation,  by  giving  the  Avives  himself,  the  same  as  ho  gave  Eve  to 
Adam.     Tiierefore  those  Avho  arc  completely  divested  from  tiie  in- 
fluence of  national  customs,  and  Avho  judge  concerning  this  matter 
by  the  Word  of  God,  are  compelled  to  belie\e  that  the  plurality  of 
Avives  was  once  sanctioned  for  many  ages  by  the  Almighty;  anil  by 
ft  still  farther  research  of  the  divine  oracles  they  find  no  intimations 
that  this  divine  institution  Avas  ever  repealed.     It  Avas  an  institution, 
not  originated  under  the  law  of  .Moses,  but  of  a  far  more  ancient 
date;  .and  instead  of  being  abolished  by  that  law,  it  Avas  sanctioned 
and  perpetuated  ;  and  Aviieu  Christ  caiuo  to  fulfill  that  law,  and  to 
do  it  away  by  the  introduction  of  a  better  covenant,  he  did  not  abol- 
ish the  plurality  system:  not  being  originated  under  that  law,  it  Avas 
not  nuide  null  ami  void  when  that  la»v'  Avas  done  away.     Indeed, 
there  were  many  things  in  connection  Avith  the  law  that  Avere  not 
abolished  Aviien  the  law  Avas  fullilled  ;  as,  for  instance,  the  Ten  Com- 
nianilments,  Avhicli  the  ]>eople  under  the  (iospel  covenant  Avere  still 
ol»liged  to  obey;  anil  until  we  can  find  some  law  of  (Jod  abulishing 
and  prohibiting  a  j)luralily  of  Avives,  avc  are  compellecl  to  believe  it 
a  divine  institution;  ami  avo  are  furthermore  compelled  to  believe, 


Chap.  IX. 


POLYGAMY  EXPLAINED. 


883 


that  if  this  institution  be  entered  into  now,  under  the  same  principles 
which  governed  the  holy  prophets  and  patriarchs,  that  God  will  ap- 
probate It  now  as  much  as  he  did  then ;  and  that  the  persons  who 
do  thus  practice  it  conscientiously  and  sincerely  are  just  as  honora- 
ble in  the  sight  of  God  as  those  who  have  but  one  wife.  And  that 
which  is  honorable  before  God  should  be  honorable  before  men  •  and 
no  one  should  be  desinsed  when  he  acts  in  all  good  conscience  upon 
any  principle  of  doctrine;  neither  should  there  bo  laws  in  any  of 
tliese  States  or  Territories  to  compel  any  individual  to  act  in  viola- 
tion to  the  dictates  of  his  own  conscience;  but  every  one  should  be 
left  in  all  matters  of  religion  to  his  own  choice,  and  thus  become  ac- 
countable to  God,  and  not  to  his  fellow-man. 

If  the  people  of  this  country  have  generally  formed  different  con- 
clusions Irom  us  upon  this  subject,  and  if  they  have  embraced  relig- 
ions  which  are  more  congenial  to  their  minds  than  the  religion  of  the 
Saints,  we  say  to  them  tiiat  they  are  welcome  to  their  own  relio^ious 
views ;  the  laAvs  should  not  interfere  with  the  exercise  of  their  relig- 
lous  rights.  If  we  can  not  convince  you  by  reason  nor  by  the  Word 
ot  God  that  your  religion  is  wrong,  we  will  not  jjcrsecute  you,  but 
will  sustain  j^ou  in  the  privileges  guaranteed  in  the  great  Charter  of 
American  Liberty :  we  ask  from  you  the  same  generosity— protect 
us  m  the  exercise  of  our  religious  rights— convince  us  of  our  errors 
of  doctrine,  if  we  have  any,  by  reason,  by  logical  arguments,  or  by 
the  Word  of  God,  and  we  will  be  ever  grateful  for  the  information, 
and  you  will  ever  have  the  pleasing  rcHcction  that  you  have  been 
the  instruments  in  the  hands  of  God  of  redeeming  your  fellow-boinf^s 
from  the  darkness  which  you  may  see  enveloping  their  minds.  Conie 
then,  let  us  reason  together,  and  try  to  discover  the  true  light  upon 
all  subjects  connected  Avith  our  temporal  or  eternal  happiiiess ;  and 
if  wo  disagree  in  our  judgments,  let  us  imi)ute  it  to  the  weakness  and 
imi)erfections  of  our  fallen  natures,  and  let  us  ])ity  each  other,  and 
endeavor  with  patience  and  meekness  to  reclaim  from  error,  and  save 
the  immortal  soul  from  an  endless  death. 

]\rornionisni,  it  will  be  observed,  claims  at  onco  to  bo,  like  Chris- 
tianity, a  pro'rrcssivo  I'aitli,  witli  tliat  development  of  spiritualism 
wliich  the  "  'iracts  for  the  Times"  oxemplilicd,  and,  like  El  Islam, 
to  be  a  restoration  by  revelation  of  the  pui'c  and  primeval  reli'non 
of  the  world.  Convinced  that  plurality  was  unlbrbidden  17*^1110 
fouiiders  of  the,  lornier  faiths,  the  Mormons,  as  well  as  the  follow- 
CTS  of  the  Arabian  I'rophet,  liavo  obeyed  tlic  command  of  their 
God  to  restore  it,  and  that,  too,  altliougli  the  Anglo-Scandinavian 
race  every  where  ngrees,  after  tlio  fashion  of  pagan  and  niono- 
gamic  IJorno,  to  make  it  a  eommcni-law  crime.  Tolitieally  consid- 
ered, tlie  ^lormons  deem  it  m-cessary  to  their  existence  as  ajieo- 
pie.  t'ontrary  to  the  scientific  modern  cconomi.st,  from  Mr.  Mai- 
thus  to  Mr.  Mill,  they  hold  population,  not  wealth,  learning,  eivil- 
ization,  nor  virtue,  to  be  the  strengtii  of  a  nation;  they  believe 
that  numbers  decide  the  rise  and  fall  of  empires,  and  that,  as  Na- 
ture works  the  extinction  of  her  doomed  races  l)y  infeeundity, 
and  as  the  decline  of  a  people's  destiny  is  first  detected  in  tfio 


i. 


m 


'!'• 


ni 


384 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Ch.u«.  IX. 


diminution  of  its  census,  so  they  look  upon  the  celestial  promises 
of  prolificity  made  to  the  patriarchs  of  old  as  the  highest  temporal 
blessing.  They  admit  in  the  lawgiver  only  a  right  to  legislate 
for  the  good  of  those  who  are  to  obey  his  laws,  not  to  gratify  his 
"  whimsy  whamsies,"  and  that  the  liberty  which  man  claims  by 
the  dignity  of  his  nature  permits  him  to  choose  the  tie,  whether 
polyandric,  monogamic,  or  polygamic,  that  connects  him  with  the 
opposite  sex.  Mr.  Parley  P.  Pratt  ("  Marriage  and  Morals  in 
Utah,"  p.  3)  is  explicit  upon  this  subject: 

"  If  wc  find  laws,  statutes,  covenants,  and  precedents  emanating 
from  God ;  sworn  to  by  himself  to  be  everlasting ;  as  a  blessing 
to  all  nations — if  wc  find  these  have  to  do  with  exceeding  multi- 
plicity of  race,  and  with  family  and  national  organization  and  in- 
crease— if  such  institutions  are  older  than  Moses,  and  arc  found 
perpetuated  and  unimpaired  by  Moses  and  the  prophets,  Jesus 
and  the  apostles,  then  it  will  appear  evident  that  no  merely  hu- 
man legislation  or  authority,  whether  proceeding  from  emperor, 
king,  or  people,  has  a  right  to  change,  alter,  or  pervert  them." 

The  third  epoch  is  that  of  Materialism.  In  this  the  Mormons 
arc  preceded,  to  quote  but  a  few  schools,  by  the  classic  Academ- 
ics— by  the  Jews,  who  believed  in  a  material  and  personal  Demi- 
urgus,  and  by  many  fathers  of  the  Christian  Church,  who  held  the 
soul  of  man,  while  immortal,  to  be  material.  Matter  with  them, 
as  with  Newton,  is  an  aggregate  of  "  solid,  massy,  hard,  impene- 
trable, and  movable  particles."  llespecting  the  intelligence  of  its 
units  and  molecules — the  test  of  true  materialism — they  are  some- 
what hazy ;  they  deride  the  peripatetic  dogma  of  perception  by 
species  or  phantasms,  and  at  tlic  same  time  ignore  the  doctrine  of 
Ilobbos,  Spinoza,  Priestley,  and  others,  who  recognize  nonscparate 
existence  for  the  mind  or  sjiirit*  except  as  a  union  of  atoms  or 
particles,  which,  unorganized,  have  neither  feeling  nor  tliought. 
They  define  matter  as  a  something  that  exists  in  and  occupies 
space  between  any  two  instants,  and  is  susceptible  of  <livision, 
and  of  being  removed  from  one  portion  of  space  to  another.  Un- 
like other  metaphysicians,  who  confess  ignorance  as  to  the  sub- 
stratum of  mind  and  matter,  they  boast  acquaintance  witli  tlic  es- 
senco  of  all  substances,  solidity,  which  witli  them  is  not  a  mere 
projierty.  Although  tlio  ultimate  atoms  of  matter  can  not  come 
under  tlie  cognizance  of  the  senses,  they  arc  none  tlie  less  assured 
of  their  solidity,  viz.,  that  they  fill  a  certain  amount  of  space,  and 

♦  "  If  iiiiiii,"  snys  Dr.  Priostloy,  "1)C  a  mntorinl  iK'iriR,  nnd  the  power  of  tliinkinp; 
tlio  result  iif  a  ccrtiiiii  orKiuii/iitinn  nf  tlic  lirain,  ikiott  it  imt  fullnw  tli;it  nil  liis  t'lijii-- 
tioiis  must  lie  rcmilnieil  hy  tlw  Imvs  of  iii'^climiisni,  nnd  llmt,  (ifcdnscMnirncc,  nil  his 
nctions  |ir(H'i>('(l  frnin  nii  iirosistililc  necessity?"  It  is  the  nlory  of  the  present  nire, 
the  highest  n-sult  of  our  nineteenth  century  jihysinjuiricnl  nnd  fJtntislie  Kfiulies,  hroiii'lit 
to  heiir  hy  ii  innster-inind  of  the  nue  upon  the  History  of  Civilizntioii— to  estnMi'-h 
tl!(!  fnct  timt  innnkiiid  )ironresscs  hy  investij.'ntinj:  tli(^  laws  of  ])henonieiia :  in  I'lirt, 
to  prove,  not  to  cunjecturo,  tliat  such  mechunism  rcallv  exists.  I  need  Imrdly  natiio 
Mr.  Uucklc. 


Chap.  IX. 


MORMON  MATERIALISM. 


885 

are  unable  ever  to  fill  a  greater  or  a  lesser— in  font  +^  \.^v^ 
otherwise  would  be  impossible.     They  hold  to  d^ffprp^tl         ""? 
matter,  for  instance,  the^hly  body  anVtt  spirl  S  t^^^^^^^ 
differ  in  quality  as  iron  and  oxygen.    Mind  and  spirit  ti^rlfore 
are  real,  objective,  positive  substances,  which,  like  L  astral  S 
of  the  old  alchymiste,  exists  in  close  connection  with  Se  comoo 
nent  parts  of  the  porous,  material  body.     Immaterialism  i^  wSh 
thern,_  simply  absurd ;  it  is  a  belief  which  requires  a  m?n  to  put 
faith  in  a  negation  of  time,  space,  and  matter ;  in  fact,  in  the  S 

It  r''-K  f  T'l  ^^°^^  ^^^  ^^™it«  ^«  P^oof  and  which 
can  be  described  only  tv  negative  conditions  and  ^ualitirby 
saying  what  it  is  not.  Ttey  contend  that  the  materiality  of  spir^ 
once  taken  away  would  negative  its  existence;  that  an ''immate- 
rial being"  IS  a  contradiction  in  terms;  and  that  immateSy  is 
ano  her  name  for  nothing;  therefore,  that  the  spirituality  of  spir 
It  IS  an  unphilosophical,  unscriptural,  and  atheistical  doctrine" 
'm!SeTh?foCrn'g!^^  ^^-  ^^^^  ^-^^'  ^^^  '^P^^^  of  mS^l- 

TV^mf*^'""'^ ^"^^^i^"^  ^'  i^^^ational  opposed  to  true  philosophy. 

II.  That  an  Immaterial  substance  (i  c,  a  something  existing 
which  IS  not  matter  and  is  distinct  from  matter,  which  is  not  d| 
pendent  upon  matter  for  its  existence,  which  possesses  no  prop- 
erties nor  qualities  in  common  with  matter,  ancl  which  possesses 
properties  and  qualities  all  entirely  different  from  those  of  rnatter^ 
can  not  exist.  "tt^^i; 

III.  That  a  real  material  unchangeable  spirit,  possessing  parts 
and  extension,  inhabits  the  body.  f      >f  t,  pans 

Immaterialists  who  believe  in  "an  inexplicable,  incomprehen- 
sible, iniaginary  something  without  extension  or  parts,  as  taught 
in  the  first  of  the  Thirty-nine  Articles,"  arc  therefore  the  wor- 
shipers of  an  immortal  Niliil-of  a  Nothing  clothed  with  almi-hty 
powers.  °  tiiiiii^Liiy 

It  is  abundantly  evident  that  the  partition  between  the  spiritu- 
alist and  the  materialist  is  mainly  philological,  a  dispute  of  4ords 
a  variation  of  terms,  spirit  and  matter  differing  about  as  much  as 
azotcand  nitrogen.  The  deductions,  however,  from  the  Mormon's 
preniiscs  load  him,  as  the  following  extracts  prove,  far.* 

qn,-I  T.  r  ^.1  '''^"'''^'  ""^  ^\''\  ^*'^^'^'^'''  ^^^°  So".  «"f^  the  Holy 
bpirit.     1  ho  I athcr  IS  a  material  being.     Tlie  substance  of  which 

he  13  composed  is  wholly  material.  It  is  a  substance  widely  dif- 
ferent in  soma  respects  from  the  various  substances  witli  which 
we  are  more  immediately  acquainted.  In  otlier  respects,  it  is  pre- 
cisely like  all  other  materials.  The  substance  of  Lis  pcreon  oc- 
cupies space  the  same  as  other  matter.  It  has  solidity,  length, 
breadth,  and  thickness,  nkc  other  matter.    The  elementary  mate- 

•  From  Mr.  Apostle  Orson  I'ratfn  "Absurdities  of  Immntcrinlism  "  nnd  l.U  »rnn 
tm  on  ,1,0  '.Kingdom  of  God."     It  is  Juudiy  possible  not  ,o  bSvTlhat.o  author" 
Laa  borrowed  most  of  las  theories  from  Mr.  Carlyle's  "  Republicau." 

B  B 


|j      I 


-t-"p- 


386 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap  IX. 


S' 


rials  of  his  body  are  not  susceptible  of  occupying  at  tbe  same  time 
the  same  identical  space  with  other  matter.  The  substance  of  his 
person,  like  other  matter,  can  not  be  in  two  places  at  the  same  in- 
stant. It  requires  time  for  him  to  transport  himself  from  place  to 
place.  It  matters  not  how  great  the  velocity  of  his  movement, 
time  is  an  essential  ingredient  to  all  motion,  whether  rapid  or  slow. 
It  differs  from  other  matter  in  the  superiority  of  its  powers,  being 
intelligent,  all-wise,  and  possessing  the  property  of  self-motion  to 
a  far  greater  extent  than  the  coarser  materials  of  nature.  '  God 
is  a  spirit;'  but  that  does  not  make  him  an  immaterial  being,  a 
being  that  has  no  properties  in  common  with  matter."  .... 

"  All  the  foregoing  statements  in  relation  to  the  person  of  the 
Father  are  rqnally  applicable  to  the  person  of  the  Son. 

"  The  Holy  Spirit,  being  one  part  of  the  Godhead,  is  also  a  ma- 
terial substance,  of  the  same  nature  and  properties  in  many  re- 
spects as  the  Spirits  of  the  Father  and  Son.     It  exists  in  vast,  im- 
measurable quantities,  in  connection  with  all  material  worlds. 
This  is  called  God  in  the  Scriptures,  as  well  as  the  Father  and 
Son.     God  the  Father  and  God  the  Son  can  not  be  everv  where 
present ;  indeed,  they  can  not  be  even  in  two  places  at  the  same 
instant;  but  God  the  Holy  Spirit  is  omnipresent:  it  extends 
through  all  space,  intermingling  with  all  other  matter,  yet  no  one 
atom  of  the  Holy  Spirit  can  be  in  two  places  at  the  same  instant, 
which  in  all  cases  is  an  absolute  impossibility.     It  must  exist  in 
inexhaustible  quantities,  which  is  the  only  possible  way  for  any 
substance  to  be  omnipresent.    ^All  the  innumerable  phenomena 
of  universal  nature  are  produced  in  their  origin  by  the  actual 
presence  of  this  intelligent,  all-wise,  and  all-powerful  material  sub- 
stance called  the  Holy  Spirit.     It  is  the  most  active  matter  in  the 
universe,  producing  all  its  operations  according  to  fixed  and  def- 
inite laws  enacted  by  itself,  in  conjunction  with  the  Father  and 
the  Son.    What  arc  called  the  laws  of  nature  arc  nothing  more 
nor  less  than  the  fixed  method  by  which  this  spiritual  matter 
operates.     Plich  atom  of  the  Holy  Spirit  is  intelligent,  and,  like 
other  matter,  lias  solidity,  form,  and  size,  and  occupies  space.    Two 
atoms  of  this  Spirit  can  not  occupy  the  same  space  at  the  same 
time,  neither  can  one  atom,  as  before  stated,  occupy  two  separate 
spaces  at  the  same  time.     In  all  these  respects  it  does  not  differ 
in  the  least  from  all  other  matter.     Its  distinguishing  character 
istics  from  other  matter  are  its  almighty  powers  and  infinite  wis- 
dom, and  many  other  glorious  attributes  wliich  other  materials  do 
not  possess.     If  several  of  the  atoms  of  this  Spirit  should  exist 
united  together  in  the  form  of  a  person,  then  this  person  of  the 
Holy  S[)irit  would  be  subject  to  the  same  necessity"  (N.B.,  this 
out-anagkes  anagke)  "  as  the  other  two  persons  of  the  Godhead— 
that  is,  it  could  not  be  every  where  present.     No  finite  number 
of  atoms  can  be  omnipresent.     An  infinit^j  number  of  atoms  is 
requisite  to  be  every  where  in  infinite  space.     Two  persons  recciv- 


Chap.  IX. 


MIND  AND  MATTER.— DOXOLOGY. 


387 


mg  the  gift  of  the  Holy  Spirit  do  not  receive  at  the  same  time  the 
same  identical  particles  though  they  each  receive  a  substance  ex- 
actly  similar  m  kind.  It  would  be  as  impossible  for  them  to  re- 
ceive the  same  identical  atoms  at  the  same  instant  as  it  would  be 
for  two  men  at  the  same  time  to  drink  the  same  identical  pint  of 
water.  ^ 

I  will  offer  another  instance  of  the  danger  of  meddling  with 
such  edged  tools  as  mind  and  matter— concerning  which  mankind 
knows  nothing  beyond  certain  properties— in  the  following  answer 
addressed  by  Mr.  Pratt  to  the  many  who  have  been  "traditionated 
in  the  absurd  doctrines  of  immaterialism."  "The  resemblance 
between  man  and  God  has  reference,  as  we  have  already  observed 
to  the  shape  or  figure:  other  qualities  may  or  may  not  resemble 
each  other.  Man  has  legs,  so  has  God,  as  is  evident  from  his  ap- 
pearance to  Abraham.  Man  walks  with  his  legs:  so  does  God 
sometimes  as  is  evident  from  his  going  with  Abraham  toward 

Tt?  i  .C-  ^^'^^i''^*  ''''^y  ^^^^'  ^"<^  ^e  can  move  up  or  down 
through  the  air  without  using  hislegs  as  in  the  process  of  walking 
(Gen  xvii ,  22,  and  XI.,  5,  and  xxxv.,  13)-' a  man  wrestled  witg 
Jacob  until  the  breaking  of  day ;'  after  which  Jacob  says,  '  I  have 

Sn?  rnf 'f  .K  ^^'''  ""''i  ^^  ^'^^.  '^  preserved'  (Gen.  xxxii., 
24-30).  That  this  person  had  legs  is  evident  from  his  wrestling 
with  Jacob.  His  image  and  likeness  was  so  much  like  man's 
that  J acob  at  first  supposed  him  to  be  a  man.  God,  though  in  the 
figure  of  a  man,  has  many  powers  that  man  has  not  got.  He  can 
go  upward  through  the  air.  He  can  waft  himself  from  world  to 
world  by  his  own  self-moving  powers.  These  are  powers  not  pos- 
sessed by  man,  only  through  faith,  as  in  the  instances  of  Enoch  and 
Jiihjah.  rhereforc,  though  in  the  figure  of  a  man,  ho  has  powers 
far  superior  to  man."  f     ^  ^ 

This  part  of  the  subject  may  profitably  be  concluded  by  quoting 
the  venerable  adage,  "  Qui  nescit  ignorare  nescit  scirV' 

I  now  offer  to  the  reader  a  few  remarks  upon  the  fourteen  articles 
of  the  Mormon  doxology,*  leaving  him  to  settle  whether  it  be  a 
kakodoxy  or  a  kakistodoxy. 

I.  ''We  believe  in  God,  the  Eternal  Father,  and  his 
Son  Jesus  Christ,  and  in  the  Holy  Ghost."— Of  the  thou- 
sand sects  aiid  systems  that  have  used  this  venerable  Kalmah  or 
ormula  of  Christian  faith,  none  have  interpreted  it  more  peculiar- 
ly  than  the  Mormons. 

The  First  Person  is  a  perfected  man,  once  a  dweller  upon  earth : 
advancing  in  intelligence  and  power,  he  became  such  that  in  com- 
parison with  man  he  may  be  called  the  Infinite.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith, 
in  his  last  sermon  preached  at  Nauvoo,  thus  develops  his  remark- 
able anthropomorphosis :  "  First,  God  himself,  who  sits  enthroned 

♦  From  an  artido  publislied  in  the  "Frontier  Guardian,"  then  edited  by  the 
Apostlu  Orson  11^  de.  ' 


388 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  IX. 


in  yonder  heavens,  is  a  man  like  one  of  yourselves ;  that  is  the 
great  secret.  If  the  veil  was  rent  to-day,  and  the  great  God  who 
holds  this  world  in  its  orbit,  and  upholds  all  things  by  his  power, 
if  you  were  to  see  him  to-day,  you  would  see  him  in  all  the  per- 
son, image,  and  very  form  as  a  man ;  for  Adana  was  created  in 
the  very  fashion  and  image  of  God ;  Adam  received  instruction, 
walked,  talked,  and  conversed  with  Ilim,  as  one  man  talks  and 
communes  with  another." 

The  Second  Person  is  the  "  Son  Jesus  Christ,"  the  material  off- 
spring of  the  First  by  the  Virgin  Mary,  who  was  duly  married, 
after  betrothal  by  the  angel  Gabriel,  to  the  Eternal  Father,  on 
the  plains  of  Palestine :  the  Holy  Babe  was  the  "  tabernacle"  pre- 
pared for  and  assumed  by  the  Spirit  Son.  The  Sou  is  the  Cre- 
ator: when  in  the  material  spirit  still,  ho  took  of  the  "unformed 
chaotic  matter  element  which  had  an  existence  from  the  time  God 
had,  and  in  which  dwells  all  the  glory,"  and  formed  and  peopled 
this  planetary  world,  which  he  afterward  redeemed.  lie  is  to  be 
worshiped  as  Lord  of  all,  heir  of  the  Father  in  power,  creation, 
and  dominion.  "What  did  Jesus  do?"  "  Why,  I  do  the  things 
that  I  saw  my  Father  do  when  worlds  came  rolling  into  existence. 
I  saw  my  Father  work  out  his  kingdom  with  fear  and  trembling, 
and  I  must  do  the  same."     ("  Last  Sermon,"  p._61.) 

The  Paraclete  has  already  been  described :  it  differs  from  the 
other  two  Persons  in  being  a  merely  spirit-material  soul  or  exist- 
ence without  a  "  tabernacle."  Thus  the  Mormons  mingle  with  a 
Trinity  a  very  distinct,  though  not  a  conflicting  Duality. 

The  Mormon  Godhead  may  be  illustrated  by  a  council  com- 
posed of  three  men,  possessing  equal  wisdom,  knowledge,  and 
truth,  together  with  equal  qualifications  in  every  other  respect : 
each  would  be  a  separate  person  or  a  substance  distinct  from  the 
other  two,  and  yet  the  three  would  compose  but  one  body.  This 
body  consists  of  three,  viz.,  Eloheim,  Jehovah,  and  Michael,  which 
is  Adam.  From  the  Christian  apostles  and  the  Apocalypse,  the 
Mormons  deduce  the  dogma  of  gods  in  an  ad  infinituni  ascending 
series :  mar.,  however,  must  limit  his  obedience  to  the  last  heaven- 
ly Father  and  Son  revealed  l)y  the  Iloly  Spirit.  And  as  God  is 
perfect  man,  so  is  perfect  man  God :  any  individual,  by  faith  and 
obedience,  can,  as  tuc  Brohminical  faith  asserts,  rise  to  the  position 
of  a  deity,  until,  attaining  the  power  of  forming  a  planet,  peopling, 
redeeming  it,  and  sitting  there  enthroned  in  everlasting  power. 
The  Mormons,  like  the  Moslems,  believe  that — "  things  of  eartli, 
customs,  and  ceremonies,  being  patterned  after  things  in  the  Si)irit 
world  and  future  abodes  of  the  gods" — there  are  inferior  glories 
and  pleasures  for  "  hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water."  In 
the  eternal  heavens  there  are  three  great  mansions,  the  celestial 
of  the  sun,  the  celestial  of  the  stars,  and  the  terrestrial :  the  other 
state  is  called  the  Lake  of  Fire,  or  the  Burning  Caldron. 


CUAP.  IX. 


MORMON  DOXOLOGY. 


S89 


II.  "We  believe  that  men  will  be  punished  for  their 
OWN  sins  and  not  for  Adam's  transgressions"  — Yet  thp 
Mormons  hold  the  Son  to  be  necessary  to  reconcile  fallen  man  to 
the  Father  and  the  Holy  Smrit,  to  sanctify  and  purify  the  affec- 
amu   °^^e".and  also  to  dwell  in  them  as  a  teacher  of  truth 

ihe  spiritual  substance  of  man  was  formed  in  the  berinnintr  aft- 
er the  same  image  as  the  spiritual  substance  of  the  persons  o°f  the 
Father  and  the  Son.  Previously  to  the  fall,  these  spirits  were  all 
moral  in  their  nature ;  by  the  fall  the  spirits  of  men  lost  their  mo- 
rality and  virtue  but  not  their  esscnce^that  continued  the  same  • 
by  the  new  birth  man  regains  his  morality  and  virtue,  while  the 
essence  remains  the  same ;  it  now  becomes  a  moral,  virtuous 
image,  whereas  the  same  substance  was  before  immoral.  Paul 
(1  Cor.,  xv._,  49),  in  speaking  of  the  resurrection,  says, '  As  we  have 
borne  tlie  image  of  the  earthly,  let  us  bear  also  the  image  of  the 
heavenly!'"  Unlike  the  more  advanced  faiths-El  Islam  and 
Unitarianism— the  Mormons  retain  the  doctrine  of  a  "fall  "  Ittt 
contrasts  strangely  with  their  dogma  of  man's  perfectibility* 
They  have  not  attempted  to  steer  clear  between  the  Scylla  and 
Gharybdis  of  predestination  and  free  will. 

III.  "We  believe  that  through  the  Atonement  of 
Christ  all  .mankind  jfay  be  saved  by  obedience  to  the 
laws  and  ordinances  of  the  Gospel."— After  Adam  had  fall- 
en from  his  primal  purity,  a  council  was  held  in  heaven  to  debate 
how  man  should  be  saved  or  redeemed  from  the  state  of  evil 
The  elder  brother  Lucifer,  son  of  the  morning,  the  bright  star  in 
glory,  and  the  leader  of  heavenly  hosts,  declared,  when  appealed 
to  that  he  would  save  man  in  his  sins.  But  he  who  is  en^phatic- 
ally  called  "the  Son"— Christ— answered,  I  will  save  him  from  his 
sins.  Lucifer,  the  "  archangel  ruined,"  rebelled,  was  cast  out  from 
the  planctnry  abode  of  the  Father,  and  became,  under  the  name 
of  Satan,  the  great  ruler  and  "head  devil"  of  evil  spirits  and  of 
the  baser  sort  of  imps  and  succuhi.  I  can  not  say  whether  in 
their  mysteries  the  Mormons  represent  Sathanas  as  the  handsome 
man  of  LI  Islam,  or  the  horned,  tailed,  and  cloven-footed  monster 
which  monkish  Europe  fashioned  probably  after  pagan  Pan. 

IV.  "We  believe  these  ordinances  are,  1st.  F\ith  in 
the  Lord  Jesus;  2d.  Eepentance;  3d.  Baptism  by  immer- 
sion for  the  remission  of  sins;  4th.  Laying  on  of  HANDd 
by  the  gift  of  the  Holy  Spirit;  5tu.  The  Lord's  Supper." 
—Faith  IS  not  only  the  "  evidence  of  things  that  appear  not,  the 
substance  of  things  to  be  hoped  for,"  the  first  principle  of  action, 
and  an  exercise  of  the  will  in  intelligent  beings  toward  accom- 
phshing  lioly  works  and  ])urposos,  with  a  view  to  celestial  glory; 
It  IS  also  the  source  of  power  both  on  earth  and  in  heaven  Wc 
find  that  by  faith  God  created  the  world  (lleb..  xi..  3) :  and  '"  take 


Ml'  fl 
h'P 


! 
ft 


890 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Ciur.  IX. 


this  principle  or  attribute  away  from  the  Deit;y,  he  would  cease  to 
exist."  ("  Lectures  on  Faith/'  sec.  1.)  "  Faith,  then,  is  the  first 
great  governing  principle  which  has  power,  dominion,  and  author- 
ity over  all  things."  (Ibid.)  Of  the  second  ordinance,  it  was  re- 
vealed, "  Say  nothing  but  repentance  unto  this  generation"  ("  Cov- 
enants and  Commandments,"  see.  37) ;  a  very  comprehensive  and 
valuable  rule  to  those  under  whom  their  brethren  must  sit.  As 
regards  the  third,  the  child  succeeds  its  parent  in  moral  responsi- 
bility at  eight  years  of  age,  when  it  must  be  baptized  "  in  the  name 
of  the  Father,  and  of  the  Son,  and  of  the  Iloly  Ghost,  Amen," 
into  the  Church.  Infant  baptism  is  regarded  as  a  Bida'at  or  in- 
novation— a  sin.  Baptism  by  immersion — any  other  method  be- 
ing considered  a  vain  ceremony — remits  our  peccata,  but  it  must 
be  repeated  after  each  mortal  act.  ("  Covenants  and  Command- 
ments," sec.  2,  par.  21.)  Vicarious  baptism  for  the  dead  is  found- 
ed upon  St.  Paul's  saying  concerning  the  fathers,  that  they  can  not 
Ifflvithout  U3  be  made  perfect,  and  "otherwise  what  shall  they  do 
that  are  baptized  for  the  dead,  if  the  dead  rise  not  again  at  all? 
Why  are  they  then  baptized  for  them?"  (1  Cor.,  xv.,  29.)  Im- 
mersion in  water  is  the  symbol  of  death,  emersion  of  the  resurrec- 
tion, and  the  baptismal  font  is  a  simileof  the  grave ;  but  baptism 
for  the  dead  is  acceptable  only  in  thtfTemple.  ("  Covenants  and 
Commandments,"  see.  103.)  There  being  a  probationary  state 
while  the  earth  endures  in  the  Spirit  world — the  purgatorial  doc- 
trine of  Virgil  and  others— the  dead  can  bv  proxy  "  fulfill  all 
righteousness ;"  and  the  Saints  arc  enjoined  that  "  the  greatest  re- 
sponsibility that  God  has  laid  upon  us  is  to  look  after  our  dead;" 
so  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  in  his  "Last  Sermon,"  says,  "Every  man 
who  has  got  a  friend  in  the  eternal  world  can  save  him,  unless  he 
has  committed  the  unpardonable  sin ;  so  you  can  see  how  you 
can  be  a  Savior."  A  man  baptized  for  deceased  relations  traces 
back  the  line  to  one  that  held  the  priesthood  among  his  progeni- 
tors, who,  being  a  saint,  will  take  the  place  of  sponsor,  and  relieve 
him  of  farther  responsibility.  All  thus  admitted  to  salvation  will 
be  added  at  the  resurrection  to  the  household  of  the  baptized  per- 
son, who  will  reign  as  a  patriarch  forever,  his  rank  and  power 
among  kingly  spirits  being  proportioned  to  his  wives  and  his  chil- 
dren— adopted  or  begotten — and  his  baptiz&s.  The  fourth  ordi- 
nance, or  laying  on  of  hands  by  the  water's  side,  is  a  perfectioi.  of 
the  regeneration  begun  in  baptism,  and  whereby  the  recipient  is 
promoted  to  the  Melchisedek  priesthood ;  the  order  was  revealed, 
or  rather  renewed,  in  1831.  ("  Covenants  and  Commandments," 
see.  66.)  The  fifth  ordinance,  touching  the  Eucharist,  is  instituted 
"  in  remembrance  of  the  Lord  Jesus :"  the  elder  or  priest  admin- 
isters it  kneeling  with  the  Church,  praying  and  blessing  first  the 
bread  and  then  the  wine,  ("  Covenants  and  Commandments," 
sec.  2.)  The  second  element  was  changed  by  a  direct  revelation 
(Sept.,  1830),  saying,  "  You  shall  not  purchase  wine  nor  strong 


Chap.  IX. 


MORMON  DOXOLOGY. 


891 


drink  of  your  enemies,"  since  whicli  time  water  has  been  substi- 
tuted. Mormons,  young  and  old,  equally  take  tbe  sacrament  ev- 
ery Sabbath. 

V.  "We  believe  that  man  must  be  called  of  God  by  in- 

BPIRATION,  AND  BY  LAYING  ON  OF  HANDS  FKOM  THOSE  WHO  ARE 
DULY  COMMISSIONED  TO  PREACH  THE  GoSPEL  AND  ADMINISTER  IN 

THE  ORDINANCES  THEREOF." — The  Mormons  hold  to  a  regular 
apostolic  succession.  "Every  elder"  (which  includes  the  apos- 
tles), "  priest,  teacher,  or  deacon,  is  to  be  ordained  according  to 
the  gifts  and  callings  of  God  unto  him ;  and  he  is  to  be  ordained 
by  the  power  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  is  the  one  who  ordains 
him." 

VI.  "We  BELIEVE  IN  THE  SAME  ORGANIZATION  THAT  EXISTED 

IN  THE  PRIMITIVE  ClIURCH,  VIZ.,  APOSTLES,  PrOPIIETS,  PaSTORS, 

Evangelists,  etc" — The  proper  signilication  of  these  words  will 
be  explained  when  treating  of  the  Mormon  hierarchy. 

VI.  "We  BELIEVE  IN  the  POWERS  AND  GIFTS  OF  THE  EVER- 
LASTING Gospel,  viz.,  the  gift  of  faith,  discerning  of  spir- 
its, PROPHECY,  REVELATIONS,  VISIONS,  HEALING,  TONGUES,  AND 
THE  INTERPRETATION  OP  TONGUES,  AVISDOM,  CHARITY,  BROTHERLY 

LOVE,  ETC." — The  everlasting  Gospel  means  the  universal  order 
and  arrangement  of  things  springing  from  the  "two  self-existing 
principles  of  intelligence  and  element,  or  matter,"  and  forming 
the  law  under  which  the  primordial  gods  came  into  being.  Ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  "God  himself  could  not  create  him- 
self," and  "Intelligence  exists  upon  a  self-existent  principle:  it 
is  a  spirit  from  age  to  age,  and  there  is  no  creation  about  it."  la 
the  far  eternity  two  of  the  elementary  material  aeons  met,  com- 
pared intelligence,  and  calling  in  a  third  to  council,  united  in  what 
became  the  first  power,  superior  because  prior  to  all  others,  and 
ever-enduring  by  the  union  of  other  a^ons.  Under  this  union 
arose  a  "law  governing  itself  and  all  things" — the  everlasting 
Gospel.  The  seer  has  not  left  on  record  the  manner  in  which  the 
head  god  originated :  the  other  gods,  however,  sprung  from  him 
as  children.  Ileavcn  has  not  only  kings,  but  queens — the  Sakti 
of  nindooism,  and  the  various  Ario-pagan  faiths — who  are  the 
mothers  of  gods,  of  men's  souls,  and  of  all  spiritual  existences. 
St.  John  saw  a  portion  of  the  everlasting  Gospel  in  the  "  littla 
book"  in  the  hand  of  the  angel  "  coming  down  from  heaven"  to 
proclaim  again  on  earth  the  Church  of  Christ,  a  type  of  Moroni, 
who  taught  the  fullness  of  knowledge  to  Joseph  the  Seer,  that 
the  gladder  tidings  might  bo  preached  to  men  with  the  "  signs 
following"  which  were  promised  to  the  primitive  apostles. 

As  regards  the  discerning  of  spirits,  the  human  soul  is  not  vis- 
ible to  mortal  eyes  without  a  miracle,  nor  is  it  ponderable:  it 


^Ikh 

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r-  n 


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392 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


m 


? asses  through  the  body  as  the  electric  fluid  through  the  earth, 
"et,  in  reaUty,  it  is  more  substantial  than  the  body,  for  it  can  not 
bo  changed  nor  destroyed ;  it  "  coexisted  equal  with  God,"  and 
had  no  beginning,  which  would  argue  the  possibility  of  an  end, 
and  "it  is  immortal  as  God  himself."  It  is  uncreatc:  "God  never 
did  have  power  to  create  the  spirit  of  man  at  all-— the  very  idea 
lessens  man  in  my  estimation — I  know  better."  ("Last  Sermon," 
p.  62.)  Spiritual  existences  have  a  choice  of  two  paths.  Either 
they  must  remain  cribbed,  cabined,  and  confined  in  their  own 
ethereal  order  and  proper  sphere,  to  be  called  and  sent  as  angels 
heralds,  or  ministers  from  one  planet  or  planetary  system  to  an- 
other; and  thus  the  Mormon,  as  the  Moslem,  places  angelic  na- 
ture below  human,  saying  with  St.  Paul  (1  Cor.,  vi.,  3),  "  Know 
you  not  that  wc  shall  judge  angels?"  or  they  may  choose,  like 
the  prccrcated  spirits  of  El  Islam  in  the  Yaum  i  Alast — the  Day 
of  Am-I-Not  (thy  God)? — the  probation  of  an  earthly  taberna- 
cle; and,  ignoring  their  past  existence,  descend  below  all  things 
to  attain  a  higher  than  celestial  glory,  and  perfection  in  the  attri- 
butes of  power  and  happiness.  As  with  the  metemps>  ^hosist, 
there  are  grades  of  tabernacles.  The  lowest  of  humans  is  the  Af- 
rican, who,  being  a  "  servant  of  servants  unto  his  brethren,"  is 
"cursed  as  to  the  priesthood,"  and  therefore  can  not  "attain  to 
any  thing  above  a  dim-shining  glory."  Above  him  is  the  In- 
dian, for  the  Red  Men,  through  repentance,  obedience,  and  ac- 
ceptance of  the  new  Evangelism,  can  rebecome  a  "fair  and  de- 
lightsome people,"  worthy  of  their  Hebrew  sires.  Below  the 
negro  is  the  brute  tabernacle,  into  which  the  still  rebellious  spirit 
descend.s,  until,  yielding  to  Gospel  law,  it  is  permitted  to  retrace 
its  course  through  the  successive  changes  to  splendor  and  perfec- 
tion. So,  "  when  we  arc  tormented  by  a  i-efractory  horse  or  an 
obstinate  ass,  it  may  not  bo  amiss  to  reflect  that  they  were  actu- 
ated by  an  apostate  soul,  and  cxemijlifying  a  few  of  the  human 
infirmities."  The  same  words  might  be  spoken  orthodoxicully 
by  a  Jain  or  a  Banyan. 

The  soul  is  supposed  to  take  possession  of  the  tabernacle  at  the 
quickening  of  the  embryon.  At  baptism  the  Saint  may  ask  in 
fiiith  for  some  ])nrtioular  .spirit  or  genius — an  idea  familiar  to  the 
adepts  and  spiritualists  of  this  generation.  Every  one  also  has 
evil,  false,  ana  seducing  spirits  at  variance  with  the  good,  a  i'atuc.y 
reminding  us  of  the  poetical  Moslem  picture  of  the  good  guardian 
sitting  upon  man's  riglit  shoulder,  and  whispering  into  his  ear 
supgestiniis  against  which  the  bad  spirit  on  the  left  contend.s. 
Revelations  arc  received  by  jirayer  and  mightj*  faith,  but  only 
when  diligence  and  sagacity  fail  to  secure  the  desired  information 
— where  God  has  appointed  means  he  will  not  work  by  miracles, 
nor  will  a  "(/e  prnfuiuhW^  net  without  n  more  concrete  action. 
TTeavenly  eommunications  vouchsafed  to  the  seer  must  be  regis- 
tered, and  kept  for  promulgaiion  when  the  Saints  can  bear  them: 


Chap.  IX, 


INTERPRETATION  OF  SCRIPTURE. 


393 


for  many  "  would  be  offended  and  turn  back  if  the  -whole  truth" 
—polygamy,  for  instance—"  were  dashed  down  in  a  mass  before 
*^^J^' J  ,0f  .FoP^etic  times  it  may  be  observed  that  the  habitat 
of  (lod  the  lather  is  the  planet  Kolob,  whose  revolutions— one 
of  which  is  the  beginning  and  the  end  of  a  day  equal  to  1000  ter- 
restrial years- are  the  measure  of  heavenly  time.  The  Deity  be- 
ing finite,  employs  agents  and  auxiliaries,  e.g.,  light,  sound,  elec- 
tricity, inspiration,  to  communicate  knowledge  to  his  world  of 
worlds.  An  angel  commissioned  as  a  messenger  to  earth  is  taken 
either  from  the  chief  or  from  a  minor  planet,  and  it  naturally 
measures  time  by  the  days  and  weeks,  the  months  and  years,  of 
Its  own  home— a  stylo  of  computation  which  must  not  a  little 
confuse  our  poor  human  chronology. 

"Tongues'  does  not  signify,  as  at  the  date  of  the  first  Pente- 
cost, an  ability  to  address  hcteroglottists  in  their  several  lan- 
guages which  would  render  the  gift  somewhat  too  precise  and 
Mezzofiintian  for  these  days.  It  means  that  man  moved  by  the 
Spirit  shall  utter  any  set  of  sounds  unintelligible  even  to  himself 
but  which,  being  known  to  the  Lord,  may,  by  special  permission 
to  exercise  the  "gift  of  interpretation  of  tongues,"  be  explained 
by  another  to  those  addressed.  The  man  gravid  with  "  tongues" 
must  "rise  on  his  feet,  lean  in  faith  on  Christ,  and  open  his  lips 
utter  a  song  in  such  cadence  as  he  chooses,  and  the  Spirit  of  tie 
LordwiU  give  an  interpreter,  and  make  it  a  language.''  The  lin- 
guistic feat  has  of  late  years  been  well  known  in  England,  where 
It  was,  of  course,  set  down  to  imposture.  It  may  more  charitably 
be  explained  by  an  abnormal  alfection  of  the  organ  of  hin.Tuao-o 
on  the  part  of  tlic  speaker  of  "tongues,"  and  in  the  interpreter 
by  the  ellect  of  a  fervent  and  fooling  faith. 

VIIT.  "  We  helieve  the  word  of  God  recorded  in  the 
Bible  ;  we  also  uklikve  the  word  of  God  recorded  in  the 
Book  of  Mormon,  and  in  all  other  good  hooks."— Some 
Christians  have  contended  that  the  Biblia  of  the  Jews  have  been 
altered ;  that  the  last  chapter  (vcnsc  5)  of  Deuteronomy,  for  in- 
stance, recording  the  death  and  burial  of  Moses,  was  not  written 
by  Moses.  The  Moslems  assert  that  the  Scripture  of  both  He- 
brew and  Christian  has  not  only  been  misunderstood,  but  has  do- 
Bignedly  been  corrupted  by  Bauhis  (St.  Paul)  and  other  Greekish 
Jews ;  that  the  Gosi)el  of  Infancy,  and  the  similar  comi)osition3 
now  banished  into  tlie  apocryphal  New  Testament,  are  mere  ex- 
crcsccnci's  upon  the  pure  commands  of  Jesus.  The  Jk[ormons 
hold  with  the  latter.  They  believe,  however,  that  the  infinite 
errors  and  interpretations  have  been  removed  by  "Joseph  tho 
beer,  to  vvliom  was  given  tho  "key  of  all  languages"— lie  has 
quoted  m  his  writings  only  15  out  of  SoOO— and  the  followiiiff 
ppocimen  of  his  ultra-Bontleian  emendations,  borrowed  from  tho 
'Last  Sermon,"  imiv  Knnico i 


I?     >f     \    . 


f  I » 
) ' 

A'    11 


■f!" 


g-iw«»«B— jMi  Art 


894 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX, 


'\ 


"  I  will  make  a  comment  on  the  very  first  sentence  of  the  his- 
tory of  the  creation  in  the  Bible"  (i.  e.,  "in  King  James's  ver- 
sion;" he  had  probably  never  seen  even  the  Douay  translation). 
"  It  first  read, '  The  head  one  of  the  gods  brought  forth  the  gods.'* 
If  you  do  not  believe  it,  you  do  not  believe  the  learned  man  of 
God.  And,  in  farther  explanation,  it  means, '  The  head  god  called 
together  the  gods,  and  sat  in  grand  council.  The  grand  council- 
ors sat  in  yonder  heavens,  and  contemplated  the  worlds  that  were 
created  at  that  time.'  The  Bible  is,  therefore,  held  to  be  the 
foundation  book."  Mr.  Joseph  Smith's  inspired  translation  or 
impudent  rifacciamento  is  believed  to  exist  in  MS.:  in  due  time 
it  will  probably  be  promulgated.  But  the  Word  of  God  is  not 
confined  to  the  Bible ;  the  Book  of  Mormon  and  the  Doctrines 
and  Covenants  are  of  equal  authority,  strands  of  the  "  three-fold 
cord,"  connecting  by  the  Church  God  and  man.  If  these  revela- 
tions contradict  one  another,  the  stumbling-block  to  the  weak  in 
faith  is  easily  removed  by  considering  the  "situations"  under 
which  they  were  vouchsafed :  "  heaven's  government  is  conduct- 
ed on  the  principle  of  adapting  revelation  to  the  varied  circum- 
stances of  the  children  of  the  kingdom" — a  dogma  common  to  all 
revelationists.  Additional  items  may  be  supplied  to  the  Mor- 
mons from  day  to  day,  a  process  by  which  a  "  flood  of  light  has 
poured  into  their  souls,  and  raised  them  to  a  view  of  the  glorious 
things  above."  The  present  seer,  revclator,  translator,  and  proph- 
et, however,  shows  his  high  wisdom  by  seeing,  revealing,  trans- 
lating, and  prophesying  as  little  as  possible.  Yet  ho  even  repeats, 
and  probably  believes,  that  revelation  is  the  rock  upon  which  the 
Church  is  founded. 

IX.  "  We  believe  all  that  God  has  revealed,  all  that 

HE  DOES  NOW  REVEAL,  AND  WE  BELIEVE  THAT  HE  WILL  REVEAL 
MANY  MORE  OREAT  AND  IMPORTANT  THINGS  PERTAINING  TO  THE 

KINGDOM  OF  GoD  AND  Messiaii's  Second  Comino."— Much  of 
this  has  been  explained  above.  The  second  coming  of  Christ  is 
for  the  restoration  or  restitution  of  all  things,  as  foretold  by  the 
prophet  Isaiah.  When  the  living  earth  was  created,  the  dry  land 
emerged  from  the  waters,  which  gathered  by  command  into  one 
place.  The  "  Voice  of  Warning"  dr.iws  an  interesting  j)ieturc  of 
a  state  of  things  hitherto  unknown  to  geologist  and  pala-ogeo^ra- 
phcr.  "  Tlicro  was  one  vast  ocean  rolling  around  a  single  im- 
mense body  of  land,  unbroken  as  to  continents  and  islands;  it 
was  a  beautiful  plain,  interspersed  with  gently  rising  hills  and 
sloping  vales;  ita  climate  delightfully  varied  with  heat  and  cold, 
wet  and  dry;  crowning  the  year  with  productions  grateful  to 
men  and  animals,  while  from  the  flowery  r.lain  or  spicy  grove 
sweet  odors  were  wafted  on  every  breeze,  and  all  the  vast  creation 

•  I  nrrd  hardly  my  thiit  in  thn  orinirml  tlio  words  arc  "  nt  iti  hcnd  (beginning) 
thft  rtod-  /he)  orcatS'i'tlio  ettrtli  n"J  '!'«  licavuii." 


Chap.  IX. 


RESTORATION  OF  THE  TEN  TRIBES. 


395 


of  animated  beings  breathed  naught  but  health,  peace,  and  joy." 
Over  this  paradise,  this  general  garden,  "  man  reigned,  and  talked 
face  to  face  with  the  Supreme,  with  only  a  dimming  veil  between  " 
After  the  diffusion  of  sin,  which  followed  the  fall,  came  the  puri- 
fication of  the  Noachian  cataclysm,  and  in  the  days  of  Peleg  "  the 
earth  was  divided,"  i.  e.,  the  Homeric  circumambient  sea  was  in- 
terposed between  portions  of  land  rent  asunder,  which  earthquakes 
and  upheavals  subsequently  broke  into  fragments  and  islands 
We  learn  from  the  whole  and  varied  Scriptures  that  before  the 
second  coming  of  Christ  the  several  pieces  shall  be  dovetailed  into 
one,  as  they  were  in  the  morn  of  creation,  and  the  retiring  sea 
shall  reassume  its  pristine  place,  when  Samudra  Devta  was  en- 
throned by  the  Eishis.  The  eaiih  is  thus  restored  for  a  people 
purified  to  innocence,  and  is  fitted  for  the  first  resurrection  of  the 
body  to  reign  with  the  Savior  for  a  thousand  years. 

X.  "We  believe  in  the  literal  gathering  of  Israel,  and 

IN  THE  restoration  OF  THE  TeN  TrIBES  ;  THAT  ZiON  WILL  BE 
ESTABLISHED  UPON  THE  WESTERN  CONTINENT;  THAT  ChrIST 
WILL  REIGN  PERSONALLY  UPON  THE  EARTH  A  THOUSAND  YEARS' 
AND  THAT  THE  EARTH  WILL  BE  RENEWED  AND  RECEIVE  ITS  PAR- 
ADISIACAL GLORY."— The  only  novelty  in  this  article  is  the  "lo- 
cation" of  Zion,  which  has  already  been  transferred  from  Palestine 
to  the  celestial  regions  in  the  V  alley  of  the  Mississippi ;  this,  in 
the  present  era,  when  the  old  cradles  of  civilization  upon  the  Gan- 
ges and  Indus,  the  Euphrates  and  the  Nile,  have  been  well-nigh 
depopulated  or  exhausted,  promises  to  become  one  of  the  vast 
hives  from  which  the  human  swr.rm  shall  issue.  The  American 
continent,  as  the  Book  of  Mormon  informs  us,  was,  at  the  time  of 
the  Crucifixion,  shaken  to  its  foundation :  towns  and  cities,  lakes 
and  mountains,  were  buried  and  formed  when  "  the  earth  writhed 
in  the  convulsive  throes  of  agonizing  nature."  After  all  tlie  seed 
of  Israel  shall  have  been  raised  from  the  dead,  they  shall  flock  to 
Zion  in  Judea,  and  the  saints  of  other  races  shall  be  gathered  to 
New  Jerusalem  in  America:  both  these  cities  shall  bo  "built  with 
fine  stones,  and  the  beauty  of  all  precious  things."  At  the  end 
of  the  millennium  comes  the  great  sabbath  of  rest  and  enjoyment ; 
the  earth  shall  become  celestial  through  tlie  baptism  of  fire,  whilo 
the  two  holv  cities  shall  be  cauglit  un  (literally)  into  heaven,  to 
descend  with  the  Lord  God  for  their  light  r.nd  their  temple,  and 
shall  remain  forever  on  the  new  earth  "  under  the  bright  canopy 
of  tho  new  heavens." 

XI.  "We  BELIEVE   IN  THE   LITERAL  RESURRECTION  OP  THE 
BODY,  AND  THAT  THE  REST  OF  THE  DKAD  LIVE  NOT  AGAIN  UNTIL 

THE  THOUSAND  YEARS  ARE  KXPIUKD."— Man,  it  has  been  .shown, 
is  a  dufilit^  of  clemcntvS.  Tho  body  is  pross,  tho  spirit — under 
which  tho  intellect  or  mind  is  iucluilcd — is  rofincd  mattnr  pp.rmff- 


W 


:J 


I  • 


396 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chat.  IX. 


ating,  vivifying,  and  controlling  the  former :  the  union  or  fusion 
of  the  two  constitutes  the  "living  soul"  alluded  to  by  Moses  (Gen., 
ii.,  7)  in  the  Adamical  creation.  Death  followed  the  fall  of  the 
great  patriarch,  who,  we  are  told,  is  called  in  Scripture  Michael, 
the  Ancient  of  Days,  with  hair  like  wool,  etc.  But  in  technical 
Mormon  phrase,  "Adam  fell  that  man  might  be,"  and  ate  the  for- 
bidden fruit  with  a  full  foreknowledge  of  the  consequences — a 
Shiah  belief.  The  "  fall,"  therefore,  was  a  matter  of  previous  ar- 
rangement, in  order  that  spirits  choosing  to  undertake  their  proba- 
tions might  be  fitted  with  "  tabernacles,"  and  be  born  of  women. 
I)eath  separates  the  flesh  and  the  spirit  for  a  useful  purpose,  but 
the  latter  keeps  guard  over  every  particle  of  the  former,  unti},  at 
the  fiat  of  resurrection,  the  boiiy  is  again  "clothed  upon,"  and 
perfect  man  is  the  result — a  doctrine  familiar  to  the  mediums. 
Such  is  also  the  orthodox  Sunnitc  faith.  The  heretical  pct;uli- 
arity  of  the  Mormon  resurrection  is  this:  the  body  will  be  the 
same  as  before,  "  except  the  blood,"  which  is  the  natural  life,  and, 
consequently,  the  principle  of  mortality.  A  man  restored  to  flesh 
and  blood  would  be  subject  to  death;  "flesh  and  bones,"  there- 
fore, will  be  the  constitution  of  the  "  resurrected"  body.  This 
idea  clearly  derives  from  the  Gcnesitic  physiology,  which  teaches 
that  "  the  life  of  the  flesh  is  in  the  blood"  (Levit.,  xvii.,  14) ;  life 
being,  according  to  the  moderns,  not  an  absolute  existence  nor 
objective  entity,  but  a  property  or  condition  of  the  corporeal 
mechanism — the  working,  as  it  were,  of  the  engine  until  arrested 
by  material  lesion.  It  is  confirmed  in  the  Mormon  mind  by  the 
Savior  bidding  his  disciples  to  handle  his  limbs,  and  to  know  that 
he  had  flesh  and  bones,  not  blood, 

XII.  "  We  claim  the  privilege  of  "worshiping  Almighty 
God  accouuing  to  the  dictates  of  conscience  unmolested, 
and  allow  all  men  the  same  privilege,  let  them  worship 
HOW  OR  WHERE  THEY  MAY." — This  article  embodies  the  tenets 
of  Kogcr  Williams,  who,  in  establishing  his  simple  democracy, 
provided  that  tlie  will  of  the  maj(jrity  should  rule,  but  "only  in 
civil  things."  The  charter  of  Itbodi;  Island  (1044)  contains  the 
memorable  words:  "No  person  within  the  said  colony  shall  be 
molested,  punished,  disqun^ted,  or  called  in  question  for  any  dif- 
ferences of  opinion  in  matters  of  religion  who  does  not  actually 
disturb  the  public  peace."  But  how  otlen  has  this  been  mouthed 
— how  little  it  lias  affected  mankind  !  Would  London — boa.sting 
in  the  nineteenth  century  to  be  the  most  tolerant  of  cities — allow 
the  Cardinal  of  Westminster  to  walk  in  procession  through  her 
streets  ? 


XIII.  "We  believe  in  being  subject  to  Kmag,  queens, 

PRESIDENTS,  RULERS,  AND  MAGISTRATES,  IN  OBEYING,  HOXOUING, 

AND  SUSTAINING  THE  LAW." — Wbeu  trcatiiiu  of  the  hierarchy,  it 


Chap.  IX. 


MORMON  "AGGLOMERATION." 


897 


will  be  made  apparent  that  subjection  to  temporals  and  Gentiles 
must  be  purely  nominal  At  the  same  time,  it  must  be  owned 
that  throughout  North  America,  I  may  say  throughout  the  New 
World,  the  Mormon  polity  is  the  only  fixed  and  reasonable  form 
of  government.  The  "  turnpike-road  of  history,"  which  Fisher" 
Ames,  nearly  a  century  ago,  described  as  "white  with  the  tomb, 
stones  of  republics  "  is  in  a  fair  way  to  receive  fresh  accessions 
while  the  land  of  the  Saints  promises  continuance  and  progress.  ' 

XIV.  "We  believe  in  being  honest,  true,  chaste  tem- 
perate, BENEVOLENT,  VIRTUOUS,  AND  UPRIGHT,  AND  IN  DOING 
GOOD  TO  ALL  MEN;  INDEED,  WE  MAY  SAY  THAT  WE  FOLLOW  THE 
ADMONITION  OP  PaUL  ;  AVE  'BELIEVE  ALL  THINGS,'  WE  'HOPE 
ALL  THINGS,'  WE  HAVE  ENDURED  VERY  MANY  THINGS,  AND  HOPE 
TO  BE  ABLE  TO  'ENDURE  ALL  THINGS.'  EVERY  THING  LOVELY 
VIRTUOUS,  PRAISEWORTHY,  AND  OF  GOOD  REPORT,  WE  SEEK  AFT- 
ER, LOOKING  FORWARD  TO  THE  'RECOMPENSE  OF  REWARD  '  BuT 
AN  IDLE  OR  LAZY  PERSON  CAN  NOT  BE  A  CHRISTIAN,  NEITHER 
HAVE  SALVATION.  He  IS  A  DRONE,  AND  DESTINED  TO  BE  STUNG 
TO  DEATH,  AND   TUMBLED   OUT    OP  THE   HIVE."  — All    OVCr    the 

American  Union  there  is  an  apotheosis  of  labor;  the  Latter-Dov 
baints  add  to  it  the  damnation  of  osiosity. 

This  brief  outline  of  Mormon  faith  will  show  its  strange  but  I 
believe,  spontaneous  agglomeration  of  tenets  which,  were  i'ts  dis- 
ciples of  a  more  learned  and  philosophical  body,  would  su^^gest 
extensive  eclecticism.  But,  as  I  have  already  remarked,  there  is 
a  remarkably  narrow  limit  to  religious  ideas:  the  moderns  vainly 
attempt  invention  when  combination  is  now  the  only  possible 
process  In  the  Tessarakai  Decalogue  above  quoted,  we  find  syn- 
cretued  the  Semitic  Monotheism,  the  Persian  Dualism,  and  the 
Triads  and  Trinities  of  the  Egyptians  and  the  Hindoos.  The 
Hebrews  also  have  a  personal  Tlieos,  the  Buddhists  avataras  and 
incarnations,  the  Brahmans  self-apotheosis  of  man  by  prayer  and 
penance  and  the  East  generally  holds  to  quietism,  a  belief  that  re- 
pose IS  the  only  hanpincss,  and  to  a  vast  complication  of  states  in 
the  world  to  be.  The  ^rormons  are  like  the  Pythagoreans  in  their 
^recreation,  transmigration,  and  exaltation  of  souls;  like  the  fol- 
owers  ofLcucippus  and  Democritus  in  their  atomic  materialism; 
Ike  the  Emcureans  in  their  pure  atomic  theories,  their  summum 
bonmn,  aiul  their  sensuous  speculations;  and  like  the  Platonista 
and  Gnostics  in  their  belief  of  the  JKon,  of  ideas,  and  of  moving 
primnples  in  clement.  They  are  fetichists  in  their  ghostly  fancies 
their  rrcstra,  which  became  souls  and  spirits.  They  arc  Jews  in 
their  theocracy,  their  ideas  of  angels,  their  hatred  of  Gentiles  and 
tlK'ir  utter  segregation  from  the  great  brotluTliood  of  mankind. 
Ihoy  are  Christuins  inasmuch  as  they  base  their  iiiith  upon  the 
Bible,  and  hold  to  tlio  divinity  of  {:;inist,  the  fall  of  man,  the 
atonement,  and  the  regeneration.    They  uro  Arians  inasmuch  aa 


'  i  1*  \m  t 


398 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ChjU".  IX. 


:  : 


they  hold  Christ  to  be  "the  first  of  God's  creatures,"  a  "perfect 
creature,  but  still  a  creature."  They  are  Moslems  in  their  views 
of  the  inferior  status  of  womankind,  in  their  polygamy,  and  in 
their  resurrection  of  the  material  body :  like  the  followers  of  the 
Arabian  Prophet,  they  hardly  fear  death,  because  they  have  elab- 
orated "continuation."  They  take  no  leap  in  the  dark;  they 
spring  from  this  sublunary  stage  into  a  known,  not  into  an  un- 
known world:  hence  also  their  worship  is  eminecitly  secular,  their 
sermons  are  political  or  commercial,  and  —  religion  being  with 
them  not  a  thmg  apart,  but  a  portion  and  parcel  of  every-day  life 
— the  intervention  of  the  Lord  in  their  material  affairs  becomes 
natural  and  only  to  be  expected.  Their  visions,  prophecies,  and 
miracles  are  those  of  the  lUuminati,  their  mysticism  that  of  the 
Druses,  and  their  belief  in  the  Millennium  is  a  completion  of  the 
dreams  of  the  Apocalyptic  sects.  Masonry  has  evidently  entered 
into  their  scheme ;  the  Demiurgus  whom  they  worship  is  "as  good 
at  mechanical  inventions  as  at  any  other  business."  With  their 
later  theories,  Methodism,  Swedenborgianism  —  especially  in  its 
view  of  the  future  state — and  Transcendentalism  are  curiously  in- 
termingled. And,  finally,  we  can  easily  discern  in  their  doctrine 
of  affinity  of  minds  and  sympathy  of  souls  the  leaven  of  that  faith 
which,  beginning  with  the  Mesmer,  and  progressing  through  the 
Eochester  Eappers  and  the  Poughkeepsie  Seer,  threatens  to  ex- 
tend wherever  the  susceptible  nervous  temperament  becomes  the 
characteristic  of  the  race. 

The  Lattcr-Day  Saints  do  not  deny  this  agglomeration.*  They 
maintain  that,  being  guided  by  the  Spirit  unto  all  truth,  they  have 
sifted  it  out  from  the  gross  mass  of  error  that  obscures  it,  and  that 
whatever  knowledge  uas  been  vouchsafed  to  man  may  be  found 
in  their  possession.  They  assert  that  other  sects  were  to  them 
what  the  Platonists  and  the  Essenes  were  to  Christianity.  More- 
over, as  has  been  seen,  thev  declare  their  faith  to  be  still  in  its 
infancy,  and  that  many  dark  and  doubtful  subj>  iS  are  still  to  be 
decidctl  by  better  experience  or  revelation. 

I  borrow  the  following  resume  of  Mormonism  from  Lieutenant 
Gunnison— a  Christian  writer— of  course,  without  endorsing  any 
one  of  his  opinions.  ;  . 

"  In  Mormonism  wo  recognize  an  intuition  of  Transcendental- 
ism-intuition, we  say,  for  its  founder  was  no  scholar  in  the  ideal- 
istic philosophy,  lib  trampled  under  foot  creeds  and  formulas, 
and  soared  away  for  perpetual  inspiration  from  the  God ;  and  by 
the  will,  which 'he  calls  faith,  he  won  the  realms  of  truth,  beauty, 
and  liappincss.     Such  things  can  only  be  safely  confided  to  the 

•  "One  nf  tlio  grnnd  fiin<lnniPtitnl  prinoijilps  of  MormnniRm"  fHnyn  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith  in  Ills  i»crnion  prrnchtnl  on  tho  itt!i  of  Julv.  1H4:!)  "is  to  rorcivo  truth,  cotno 
whence  it  niiiy."  ....  "  rrcshyti'iiiins,  HiipllHtM,  Methodists,  ('Btholicfi,  Mohammcil- 
nno,  etc.,  nrc  thev  in  pooHCKsioii  of  niiv  truth  ?  Yes,  they  have  nil  a  Utile  truth  inix- 
oil  with  error.  Wc  ouRht  to  nallicr  to^'etiler  all  tlie  Koo<l  iiml  trno  priiiciplcH  which 
are  in  tho  world,  iinJ  keep  thcni,  otherwise  wo  shull  never  heeoino  puru  Mormons.' 


Chap.  IX. 


MELCHISEDEK  PRIESTHOOD. 


399 


strong  and  pure-minded,  and  even  they  must  isolate  themselves 
in  self-idolatry,  and  be  '  alone  with  the  alone,'  and  seek  converse 
with  the  spirit  of  man's  spirit. 

"But  this  prophet  was  educated  by  passion,  and  sought  to  be 
social  with  the  weak ;  he  therefore  baptized  spiritually  in  the  wa- 
ters of  materialism.  Instead  of  evolving  the  godlike  nature  of 
the  human  spirit,  he  endeavored  to  prove  that  humanity  was  al- 
ready divinity  by  investing  Deity  with  what  is  manlike — men 
were  to  be  like  gods  by  making  gods  men." 

The  form  of  Mormon  government  is  not  new :  it  is  the  theoc- 
racy of  the  Jews,  of  the  Jesuit  missions  in  Brazil,  Paraguay,  and 
elsewhere,  and  briefly  of  all  communities  in  which,  contrary  to  the 
fitness  of  things.  Church  is  made  to  include,  or,  rather,  exclude 
State.  In  opposition  to  El  Islam,  they  maintain  that  a  hieratic 
priesthood  is  necessary  to  the  well-being  of  a  religion.  They  di- 
vide it  into  two  grand  heads,  of  which  all  other  officers  and  au- 
thorities are  appendages.  The  first  is  called  the  Melchisedek 
priesthood,  "because  Melchisedek  was  such  a  great  high  priest."* 
The  second,  which  is  a  supplement  to  the  former,  and  administers 
outward  ordinances,  is  the  Aaronic  or  Levitical,  "  because  it'  was 
conferred  upon  Aaron  and  his  seed  throughout  all  their  genera- 
tions." To  the  Melchisedek  belong  the  high  priest,  priests,  and 
elders ;  to  the  Aaronic  the  bishops,  the  teachers  or  catechists,  and 
the  deacons. 

"  The  power  and  authority  of  the  higher,  or  Melchisedek  priest- 
hood, is  to  hold  the  keys  of  all  the  spiritual  blessings  of  the 
Church,  to  have  the  privilege  of  receiving  the  mysteries  of  the 
kingdom  of  heaven,  to  have  the  heavens  opened  unto  them,  to 
commune  with  the  general  assembly  and  Church  of  the  first-bom, 
and  to  enjoy  the  communion  and  presence  of  God  the  Father,  and 
Jesus  the  Mediator  of  the  New  Covenant. 

"  The  power  and  authority  of  the  lesser,  or  Aaronic  priesthood, 
is  to  hold  the  keys  of  the  ministering  of  angels,  and  to  administer 
in  outward  ordinances  the  letter  of  the  Gospel — the  baptism  of 
rcpcntiince  for  the  remission  of  sins — agreeaole  to  the  covenants 
and  commandments." 

The  apex  of  the  Mormon  hierarchy  is  the  First  Presidency, 
now  Messrs.  Young,  Kimball,  and  Wells,  who  have  succeeded  to 
Peter,  James,  and  John  in  the  Gospel  Church,  and  who  correspond 
on  earth  to  the  Trinity  in  lieavcn — numero  I)cus  impare  gaudet. 
The  presiding  high  priest  over  the  high  priesthood  '^f  the  Church 
—par  excellence,  "  </«;"  President,  also  cx-officio  seer,  revelator,  trans- 
lator, and  prophet,  is  supreme.  The  two  sub-chiefs  or  counselors 
are  jMast-cnual :  the  first,  however,  takes  social  precedence  of  the 
second.  This  quorum  of  the  presidency  of  tlio  Church,  elected 
by  the  whole  body,  is  the  centre  of  temporal  as  of  ecclesiastical 

*  Tlipsp  nnd  tlio  fullowiiijf  quotations  are  borrowpd  from  sections  2  and  8  of  "Cov- 
cnnnts  and  CoinuiuiiUnieutii." 


i;?ii| 


400 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


■ 


a 


pawer.  It  claims,  under  God,  the  rigtt  of  life  and  death ;  it  holds 
the  keys  of  heaven  and  hell,  and  from  its  decrees  there  is  no  ap- 
peal except  to  the  general  assembly  of  all  the  quorums  which  con- 
stitute the  spiritual  authorities  of  the  Church. 

The  second  in  rank  is  the  Patriarch.  The  present  incumbent 
is  a  nephew  of  the  first  seer,  who  succeeded  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  sen., 
the  father  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.*  As  the  sire  of  the  Church, 
his  chief  duty  is  to  administer  blessings :  it  is  an  office  of  dignity 
held  for  life,  whereas  all  others  expire  after  the  semestre. 

Follows  the  "  Second  Presidency,"  the  twelve  traveling  coun- 
selors, "  called  to  be  the  twelve  apostles  or  special  witnesses  of  tbe 
name  of  Christ  in  all  the  world,^'  modeled  with  certain  political 
modifications  after  the  primitive  Christian  Church,  and  abbrevi- 
atively  termed  "  The  Twelve."  The  President  of  the  High  Apos- 
tolic College,  or,  in  his  default,  one  of  the  members,  acts  as  coad- 
jutor, in  the  absence  of  a  member  of  the  First  Presidency.  The 
Twelve  come  nearer  the  masses,  and,  acting  under  direction  of  the 
highest  authority,  build  up  the  Church,  ordain  and  set  in  order  all 
other  officers,  ciders,  priests,  teachers,  and  deacons:  they  are  em- 
powered to  baptize,  and  to  administer  bread  and  wine — the  era- 
olems  of  the  £esh  and  blood  of  Christ ;  to  confirm  those  who  are 
baptized  into  the  Church  by  the  laying  on  of  hands  for  the  bap- 
tism of  fire  and  the  Iloly  Ghost ;  to  teach,  expound,  exhort,  bap- 
tize, and  watch  over  the  Church,  and  to  take  the  lead  in  all  meet- 
ings. They  preside  over  the  several  "  Stakes  of  Zion ;"  there  is 
one,  for  instance,  to  direct,  under  the  title  of  president,  the  Euro- 
pean, and  another  the  Liverpool  mission.  If  there  be  several  to- 
gether, the  eldest  is  the  standing  president  of  the  quorum,  and  they 
act  as  councilors  to  one  another. 

The  fourth  body  in  rank  is  the  Seventies.  The  "  Seventy"  act 
in  the  name  of  the  Lord,  under  direction  of  the  "Twelve,"  inbuild- 
ing  up  the  Church,  and,  like  them,  arc  traveling  ministers,  sent 
first  to  the  Gentiles,  and  then  to  the  Jews.  Out  of  the  "  Seventy" 
are  chosen  seven  presidents,  of  whom  one  presides  over  the  other 
six  councilors :  these  seven  choose  other  seventy  besides  the  first 
seventy,  "  and  also  other  seventy,  until  seven  times  seventy,  if  the 
labor  in  the  vineyard  of  necessity  requires  it."  In  1853  tlic  min- 
utes of  thft  Mormon  General  Conference  enumerated  the  "  Seven- 
ties" at  1572.  Practically  the  seventy  members  are  seldom  com- 
Elete.  The  chief  of  these  traveling  propagandists,  the  working 
ees  of  the  community,  is  the  "President  of  all  the  Seventies." 

The  fifth  body  is  composed  of  "high  priests  after  tlie  order  of 
the  Melchisedek  priesthood,  who  have  a  right  to  officiate  in  their 
own  standing,  under  the  direction  of  the  Presidency,  in  adminis- 
tering spiritual  things,"  and  to  "officiate  in  all  the  offices  of  the 
Church  when  there  are  no  higher  authorities  present."  Thus 
charged  with  the  execution  of  spiritual  aftairs,  tliey  arc  usually 
*  So  called  in  rcvclutiun  until  tho  death  of  Mr.  Jo80])h  Smith,  sen. 


Chap.  IX.     THE  MORMON  BISHOP.— THE  HIGH  COUNCIL. 


401 


a  :,ed  and  fatherly  men.    Among  the  high  priests  are  included 
e^-officio,  the  bishops  and  the  high  council.  ' 

The  Mormon  iirtaKoirog  is  a  steward,  -who  renders  an  account 
of  his  stewardship  both  in  time  and  eternity,  and  who  superin- 
tends the  elders,  keeps  the  Lord's  store-house,  receives  the  funds 
of  the  Church,  administers  to  the  wants  of  those  beneath  him 
and  supplies  assistance  to  those  who  manage  the  "  literary  con- 
cerns," probably  editors  and  magazine  publishers.  The  bishopric 
is  the  presidency  of  the  Aaronic  priesthood,  and  has  authority 
over  it.  No  man  has  a  legal  right  to  the  office  except  a  literal 
descendant  of  Aaron.  As  these,  however,  are  non  inventi,  and  as 
a  high  priest  of  the  Melchisedek  order  may  officiate  in  all  lesser 
offices,  the  bishop,  who  never  affects  a  nolo  episcopan,  can  be  or- 
dained by  the  First  Presidency,  or  Mr.  Brigham  Young.  Thus 
the  episcopate  is  a  local  authority  in  stakes,  settlements,  and  wards, 
with  the  directorship  of  affairs  temporal  as  well  as  spiritual.  This 
"overseer"  receives  the  tithes  on  the  commutation-labor,  which 
he  forwards  to  the  public  store-house ;  superintends  the  registra- 
tion of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths,  makes  domiciliary  visits,  and 
hears  and  determines  complaints  either  laical  or  ecclesiastic. 

The  High  Council  was  organized  by  revelation  in  Kirtland 
(Feb.  17,  ISSdJ  for  the  purpose  of  settlmg,  when  the  Church  or 
the  "  Bishop's'^  council  might  fail,  important  difficulties  that  might 
arise  between  two  believers.  Eevelation  directed  it  to  consist  of 
twelve  high  priests,  ascertained  by  lots  or  ballot,  and  one  or  three 
presidents,  as  the  case  might  require.  The  first  councilors,  when 
named,  were  asked  if  they  would  act  in  that  office  according  to 
the  law  of  heaven :  they  accepted,  and  at  once,  more  Americano — 
"  voted."  After  deciding  that  the  President  of  the  Church  should 
also  be  President  of  the  Council,  it  was  laid  down  that  the  duty 
of  the  twelve  councilors  should  be  to  cast  lots  by  numolrs,  and 
thereby  ascertain  who  of  the  twelve  shall  speak  first,  commencing 
with  number  one,  and  so  in  succession  to  number  twelve.  In  an 
easy  case  only  two  speak ;  in  a  difficult  one,  six.  The  defendant 
has  a  right  to  one  half  of  the  council,  and  "  those  who  draw  even 
numbers,  that  is,  2,  4,  6,  8, 10,  and  12,  are  the  individuals  who  are 
to  stand  up  in  behalf  of  the  accused,  and  to  prevent  insult  or  in- 
justice." After  the  evidence  is  heard,  and  the  councilors,  as  well 
as  the  accuser  and  the  accused,  have  "  said  their  say,"  the  president 
decides,  and  calls  upon  the  "  twelve"  to  sanction  his  decision  by 
their  vote.  When  error  is  suspected,  the  case  is  subject  to  a 
"careful  rehearing;"  and  in  peculiar  difficulties  the  appeal  is  to 
revelation.  I  venture  to  recommend  this  form  of  special  jury  to 
those  who  have  lost  faith  in  a  certain  effete  and  olbsolete  "  pal- 
ladium of  British  liberty"  that  dates  from  the  days  of  Ethclbcrt. 
After  all,  it  is  sometimes  better, ywrare  in  verba  majisiri,  especially 
of  an  inspired  master. 

The  Iligh  Council  is  a  standing  council.    It  bears  the  same  re- 


I  <  '  "ii 


402 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


I 


lationahip  to  the  federal  power  as  the  university  Sex  viri  to  a  court 
of  civil  law  in  England,  and  it  saves  the  saints  the  expense  of  Gen- 
tile proceedings,  which  may  roughly  be  set  down  at  fifty  per  cent. 
The  sessions  take  place  in  the  Social  Hall.  Such  an  institution, 
which  transfers  to  St.  Peter  all  the  duties,  salaries,  and  honors 
which  Justinianus  gives,  is,  of  course,  most  unpopular  among  the 
anti-Mormons,  who  call  it  Star-Chamber,  and  other  ugly  names. 
I  look  upon  it  rather  as  the  Punchayat  {quinqiie  viri)  Court  of 
East  India,  a  rough  but  ready  instrument  of  justice,  which,  like 
spontaneous  growths  generally,  have  been  found  far  superior  to 
the  exotic  institutions  forced  upon  the  popular  mind  by  profss- 
sional  improvers. 

The  Latter-Day  Saint,  when  in  a  foreign  land,  can  be  punished 
for  transgression  by  his  own  people.  The  presiding  authority 
calls  a  council  to  examine  the  evidence  for  and  against  the  of- 
fense ;  and  if  guilt  be  proven,  the  offender,  after  being  officially 
suspended  from  his  missionary  functions  and  the  fellowship  of  the 
Church,  is  sent,  with  a  special  report,  to  be  tried  by  his  own  presi- 
dency at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

The  elders  are  those  from  whom  the  apostles  are  taken ;  they 
are,  in  fact,  promoted  priests  charged  with  all  the  duties  of  that 
order,  and  with  the  conduct  of  meetings,  "  as  they  are  led  by  the 
Holy  Ghost,  according  to  the  commandments  and  revelations  of 
God."  They  hold  Conferences  once  in  every  three  months,  re- 
ceive their  licenses  from  the  elders  or  from  the  Conferences ;  they 
are  liable  to  be  sent  on  missions,  and  are  solemnly  enjoined,  by  a 
revelation  of  January,  1832,  to  "  gird  up  their  loins'and  be  sober." 

The  priest  is  the  master  mason  of  the  order.  It  is  his  duty  to 
preach,  teach,  expound,  exhort,  baptize,  administer  the  sacrament, 
visit  dwniciliarily,  exhort  the  saints  to  pray  "  vocally  and  in  se- 
cret," amain  other  priests,  teachers,  and  deacons,  take  the  lead  of 
meetings  when  there  is  no  elder  present,  and  assist  the  elder  when 
occasion  requires. 

Of  the  Aaronic  order,  the  head  are  the  bishops ;  under  them 
are  two  ranks,  who  form  the  entered  apprentices  of  the  Mormon 
lodge. 

1st.  The  teachers,  who  have  no  authority  to  baptize,  to  admin- 
ister the  sacrament,  or  to  lay  on  hands,  but  who  "warn,  expound, 
exhort,  teach,  and  invite  all  to  come  unto  Christ,  watch  over  the 
Church,  and  take  the  lead  of  meetings  in  the  absence  of  the  older 
or  priest."  Of  these  catechista  one  or  two  is  usually  attached  to 
each  bishop, 

2d.  The  deacon,  or  BiaKovog,  an  assistant  teacher.  He  also  acts 
as  treasurer  to  the  missions  in  the  several  branches  of  the  Church, 
collects  money  for  the  poor,  and  attends  to  the  temporal  wants 
of  converts. 

The  rise  of  the  "  Church  of  Christ  in  these  last  days  dates  from 
1830,  sinco  the  coming  of  our  Lord  and  Savior  Jesus  Christ :" 


Chap.  IX.       "UPPER  CRUST."— THE  JAREDITE  EXODUS. 


403 


thus,  A.p.  1861  13  Annus  Joseph!  Smithii  31.  In  that  year  Mi- 
rabihs  the  book  of  Mormon  appeared,  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ 
of  Latter-pay  Saints  was  organized,  and  the  Body  Ecclesiastic, 
alter  the  tashion  of  those  preceding  it,  was  exodus'd  or  he^ira'd 
to  Kirtland,  Ohio.  ® 

The  actual  composition  of  the  Mormon  hierarchy  is  that  of  a 
cadre  of  officers  to  a  skeleton  army  of  saints  and  martyrs  which 
may  be  filled  up  ad  infinitum.  It  is  inferior  in  simplicity  and 
therefore  in  power,  to  that  which  the  Jesuit  organization  is  usu- 
ally supposed  to  be,  yet  it  is  not  deficient  in  the  wherewithal  of 
a  higher  gi^p.  It  makes  state  government,  especially  that  of 
Gentile  communities,  an  excrescence  upon  the  clerical  body.  The 
first  president  is  the  governor;  the  second  is  the  lieutenant  gov- 
ernor; the  third  is  the  secretary  of  state;  the  High  Council  is 
u  /?u"P'^®"^®  Court;  the  bishops  are  justices  of  peace:  briefly 
the  Church  is  legislative,  judiciary,  and  executive— what  more  can 
be  re(juired?  It  has  evidently  not  neglected  the  masonic,  mono- 
theistic, and  raonocratic  element,  as  opposed  to,  and  likely  to  tem- 
per the  tripartite  rule  of  A  nglo- American  civil  government.  The 
first  president  is  the  worshipful  master  of  the  lodge,  the  second 
and  third  are  the  senior  and  junior  wardens,  while  the  inferior 
ranks  represent  the  several  degrees  of  the  master  and  apprentice 
It  symbolizes  the  leveling  tendencies  of  Christianity  and  pro- 
gressiveism,  while  its  civil  and  ecclesiastical  despotism  and  its 
sharp  definition  of  rank  are  those  of  a  disciplined  army— the 
model  upon  which  socialism  has  loved  to  form  itself.  In  society 
while  all  are  brothers,  there  is  a  distinct  aristocracy,  called  west 
of  the  Atlantic  "  upper  crust;"  not  of  titles  and  lands,  nor  of  bales 
and  boxes,  but  of  hierarchical  position;  and,  contrary  to  what 
might  be  expected,  there  is  as  little  real  social  fusion  among  Mor- 
mons as  between  the  "sixties,"  the  "forties,"  and  the  "twenties" 
of  silly  Guernsey. 

Having  now  attempted,  after  the  measure  of  my  humble  ca- 
pacity, to  show  what  Mormonism  is,  I  will  try  to  explain  what 
Mormonism  is  not.  The  sage  of  Norwich  ("Eel.  Med.,"  sect  vi  ^ 
well  remarked  that  "every  man  is  not  a  proper  champion  of 
truth,  nor  fit  to  take  up  the  gauntlet  in  the  cause  of  verity  •"  and 
that  "many,  from  the  ignorance  of  these  maxims,  have  too  rashly 
charged  the  troops  of  error,  and  remain  as  trophies  to  the  enemies 
of  truth  The  doctrine  may  fitly  be  illustrated  by  pointing  out 
the  prodigious  aid  lent  to  Mormonism  by  the  self-inflicted  defeats 
01  anti-Mormonism. 

The  Jaredite  exodus  to  America  in  dish-like  "barges,  whose 
length  was  the  length  of  a  tree,"  and  whose  voyage  lasted  344 
days,  is  certainly  a  trial  of  faith.  The  authority  of  Mormonic  in- 
spiration 13  supposed  to  be  weakened  by  its  anachronisms  and 
other  errors:  the  mariner's  compass,  for  instance,  is  alluded  to 
long  before  the  fourteenth  century.    The  Mormons  however  re- 


404 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


ply  that  the  "Liahona"  of  their  Holy  Book  is  not  a  compass,  and 
that  if  it  were,  nothing  could  be  said  against  it :  the  Chinese  claim 
the  invention  long  before  the  days  of  Flavio,  and  the  Moslems 
attribute  it  to  one  of  their  own  saints.*  The  "  reformed  Egyp. 
tian"  of  the  Golden  Bible  is  ridiculed  on  the  supposition  that  the 
Hebrew  authors  would  write  either  in  their  o>yn  tongue,  in  the 
Syrian,  or  in  the  Chaldaic,  at  any  rate  in  a  Semitic,  not  in  a  Coptic 
language.  But  the  first  disciples  of  the  Gospel  Church  were 
Jews,  and  yet  the  Evangel  is  now  Greek.  As  regards  the  Golden 
Plates,  it  is  contended  that  the  Jews  of  old  were  in  the  habit  of 
writing  upon  papyrus,  parchment,  and  so  on,  not  upon  metal,  and 
that  such  plates  have  never  been  found  in  America.  But  of  late 
years  Himyaritic  inscriptions  upon  brass  tablets  have  been  for- 
warded from  Yemen  to  the  British  Museum.  Moreover,  in  1843, 
six  brass  plates  of  a  bell  shape,  covered  with  ancient  glyphs,  were 
discovered  by  a  "  respectable  merchant"  near  Kinderhook,"  Uni- 
ted States,  proving  that  such  material  was  not  unknown  to  the 
ancient  Semites  and  to  the  American  aborigines.  The  word 
•'  Christ"  often  occurs  ("  Book  of  Mormon,"  p.  8,  etc.)  long  before 
the  coming  of  the  Savior.  But  the  Book  of  Mormon  was  written 
in  the  "  reformed  Egyptian :"  the  proper  noun  in  question  was 
translated  "Christ"  in  English  by  the  prophet,  an  "unlearned 
young  man,"  according  to  his  own  understanding,  and  for  the  bet- 
ter comprehension  of  his  readers.  The  same  argument  applies 
to  such  words  as  "synagogues,"  "alpha  and  omega,"  "steel," 
"S.S.E.,"  etc.;  also  to  "elephant,"  "cow,"  "horse,"  "ass," 
"swine,"  and  other  pachyderms  and  solidunguls,  which  were 
transported  to  America  after  the  Columbian  discovery :  they  are 
mere  translations,  like  the  fabulous  unicorn  of  the  Old  Testament 
and  the  phoenix  of  the  apocryphal  New  Testament  (Clement  I., 
xii.,  2) :  elephant,  for  instance,  manifestly  means  mastodon,  and 
swine,  peccary.  Ptolemy's  theory  of  a  moving  earth  is  found  an- 
ticipated. But  who  shall  limit  revelation?  and  has  not  the  Mo- 
saic Genesis,  according  to  a  multitude  of  modern  divines,  antici- 
pated all  the  latest  discoveries  ?  The  Lord  describes  America  to 
Jared  ("  Book  of  Mormon,"  p.  78)  as  an  "  isle  of  the  sea,  and  the 
accuracy  of  the  geography  is  called  in  question.  But  in  the  Se- 
mitic and  other  Eastern  tongues,  insula  and  peninsula  are  synony- 
mous. Moreover,  if  Dr.  Kane's  open  circumpolar  ocean  prove 
aught  but  a  myth,  the  New  World  is  wholly  msulated  even  by 
ice  from  the  Old.  Other  little  contradictions  and  inaccuracies, 
which  abound  in  the  inspired  books,  are  as  easily  pooh-pooh  d  as 
objections  to  the  conflicting  genealogies,  and  the  contradictory 
accounts  of  the  Crucifixion  by  the  professors  of  the  elder  laith. 

The  "  vulgarity"  of  Mormonism  is  a  favorite  theme  with  the 
anti-Mormon.  The  low  origin  and  "  plebbishness"  of  the  apostles 
Dames  and  of  their  institutions  {e.g.,  the  "Twelve,"  the  "Seven- 

•  Ptrst  Foctstocs  in  Esst  Africa,  chap.  i. 


Chap,  IX. 


OBJECTIONS  TO  MORMONISM. 


405 


ties"),  the  snuffling  Puritanic  style  wtich  the  learned  Gibbon 
hated,  and  execrable  grammar  (e.  g.,  in  the  first  page,  "  Nephi's 
brethren  rebelleth  against  him"),  and  the  various  Yankeeisms  of 
the  New  Scriptures,  are  cited  as  palpable  proofs  of  fraud.  But 
the  primitive  apostles  of  Christianity  were  of  inferior  social  rank 
and  attainments  to  the  first  Mormon  converts,  and  of  the  reformers 
of  Luther's  age  it  may  be  asked,  "  Where  was  then  the  gentle- 
man ?"  The  Syriac-Greek  of  the  New  Testament,  with  its  mani- 
fold flaws  of  idiom  and  diction,  must  have  produced  upon  the  po- 
lite philosophers  and  grammarians  of  Greece  and  Eome  an  effect 
even  more  painful  than  that  which  the  Americanisms  of  the 
Book  of  Mormon  exercise  upifti  English  nerves.  These  things 
are  palpably  stumbling-blocks  disposed  sleeper-wise  upon  the 
railroad  of  faith,  lest  Mr.  Christian  s  progress  should  become  a 
mere  excursion.  Gentiles  naturally  feel  disposed  to  smile  when 
they  find  in  the  nineteenth  century  prophets,  apostles,  saints ;  but 
the  Church  only  gains  by  the  restoration  and  reformation  of  her 
primitive  discipline.  The  supernatural  action  of  the  Holy  Spirit 
believed  in  by  the  Mormons  as  by  the  Seekers  (1645),  the  Cami- 
sards  (1688),  the  Leeites  and  Wilkinsonians  (1776),  is  the  best  an- 
swer to  that  atheistic  school  which  holds  that  God  who  once  lived 
is  now  dead  to  man.  As  of  the  Ayat  of  El  Islam,  so  of  the  rev- 
elations with  which  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  was  favored,  it  is  remarked 
that  their  exceeding  opportuneness  excites  suspicion.  But  of 
what  use  are  such  messages  from  Heaven  unless  they  arrive 
cLpropos?  Mr.  0.  Hyde  contends,  after  the  fashion  of  wiser  men, 
that  ambiguity,  and,  if  I  may  use  the  word,  a  certain  achronology, 
characterize  inspired  prophecy:  it  is  evident  that  only  a  little 
more  inspiration  is  wanted  to  render  it  entirely  unambiguous. 

The  other  sentimental  objections  to  Mormonism  may  briefly  be 
answered  as  folio  \\  d : 

''  That  the  holiest  of  loords  is  profanely  applied  to  man.''^  But  as 
Moses  (Ex.,  iv.,  16)  was  "  instead  of  God  to  Aaron"  (Ex.,  vii.,  1), 
and  was  "  made  a  god"  to  Pharaoh,  and  as  the  Savior  declared 
that  "  he  called  them  gods  unto  whom  the  word  of  God  came" 
(John,  xi.,  85\  the  Mormons  evidently  use  the  word  in  its  old 
and  scriptural  sense.  Thus  they  assert  that  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  is 
the  god  of  this  generation,  Jesus  is  his  god,  Michael  or  Adam  is 
the  god  of  Jesus,  Jehovah  is  the  god  of  Adam,  and  Eloheim  is  the 
god  of  Jehovah. 

"77ia<  credible  persons  have  testified  to  the  had  character  of  Mr. 
Joseph  Smith,  junior,  as  a  money-digger,  a  cheat,  a  liar,  a  vulgar  im- 
iwstor,  or,  at  best,  a  sincere  and  ignorant  fanatic.''''  The  Mormons 
reply  that  such  has  been  the  history  of  every  prophet.  They 
point  with  triumph  and  yearning  love  to  the  s'ory  of  their  mar- 
tyr's life,  to  his  intense  affection  for  his  family,  and  to  their  devo- 
tion to  him.  They  boast  of  his  invincible  boldness,  energy,  en- 
thusiasm, and  moral  courage;  that  ho  never  flinched  from  his 


1  i)^ 


hi' 


t  4, 


t~i^ 


'^  "■"* 


406 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


1^1 


11 


allotted  tasks,  from  the  duties  -whicli  he  was  commissioned  to  per- 
form ;  that  he  was  fifty  times  dragged  by  his  enemies  before  the 
tribunals,  and  was  as  often  acquitted ;  that  he  never  hesitated  for 
a  moment,  when  such  act  was  necessary,  to  cut  off  from  the  Church 
those  who,  like  Oliver  Cowdery,  had  been  the  depositaries  of  his 
intimate  secrets;  that  his  career  was  one  loug  Bartholomew's 
Day,  and  that  his  end  was  as  glorious  as  his  life  was  beautiful. 
In  America  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  has  by  the  genera,l  suftVage  of  anti- 
Mormons  been  pronounced  to  be  a  knave,  while  his  successor, 
Mr.  Brigham  Young,  has  been  declared  by  the  same  high  author- 
ity— vox  diaboli,  the  Mormons  term  it — to  be  a  self-deluded  but 
true  man.  I  can  scarcely  persuflUe  myself  that  great  events  are 
brought  about  by  mere  imposture,  whose  very  nature  is  feeble- 
ness: zeal,  enthusiasm,  fanaticism,  which  are  of  their  nature 
strong  and  aggressive,  better  explain  the  abnormal  action  of  man 
on  man.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  impossible  to  ignore  the  dear 
delights  of  fraud  and  deception,  the  hourly  pleasure  taken  by 
some  minds  in  finessing  through  life,  in  concealing  their  real 
selves  from  the  eyes  of  others,  and  in  playing  a  part  till  by  habit 
it  becomes  a  nature.  In  the  estimation  of  unprejudiced  persons 
Mr.  Joseph  Smith  is  a  man  of  rude  genius,  of  high  courage,  of  in- 
vincible perseverance,  fired  by  zeal,  of  great  tact,  of  religious  fer- 
vor, of  extraordinary  firmness,  and  of  remarkable  talent  in  gov- 
erning men.  It  is  conceded  that,  had  he  not  possessed  |' strong 
and  invincible  faith  in  his  own  high  pretensions  and  divine  mis- 
sion," he  would  probably  havo  renounced  the  unprofitable  task 
of  prophet,  and  sought  refuge  from  persecution  and  misery  in 
private  life  and  honorable  industry.  Be  that  ps  it  may,  he  has 
certainly  taken  a  place  among  the  notabihties  of  the  world — he 
has  left  a  footprint  upon  the  sands  of  time. 

"  That  Mr.  Joseph  ^miih  jtrophesied  lies"  and  that  ^Hhrough  greed 
of  gain  he  robbed  the  public  by  appropriating  the  moneys  of  the  Kirl- 
land  BankJ^  The  Mormons  replv  that  maYiy  predictions  of  un- 
doubted truth  undeniably  pa.sscd  their  prophet's  lips,  and  that 
some — e.  g.y  those  referring  to  the  Mormon  Zion  and  to  the  end 
of  the  world — may  still  prove  true.  With  reference  to  tlie  fact 
that  Martin  Harris  was  induced  by  the  seer  to  pay  for  the  publi- 
cation of  tho  Book  of  Mormon,  it  is  pleaded  that  the  Christian 
apostles  (Acts,  iv.,  86)  also  received  money  from  their  disciples. 
The  failure  of  the  Kirtland  Bank  (A.D.  1837)  is  thus  explained: 
During  tho  Prophet's  absence  upon  a  visit  to  the  Saints  at  Toron- 
to, the  cashier,  Warren  Parrish,  flooded  the  district  with  worthless 
paper,  and,  fearing  discovery  on  his  master's  return,  decnmpcd 
with  $25,000,  thoroby  causing  a  suspension  of  payment.  Regard- 
ing other  peccadilloes,  tho  Mormons  remark  that  no  prophet  was 
over  perfect  or  infallible,  ^foscs,  for  instance,  was  not  sufl'ercd 
for  his  pins  to  enter  tho  Promiscul  Land,  and  Saul  lost  by  his  mia- 

nnrifliipt  fhn  Iniitinir  rciirn  over  Israel. 


f 


Chap.  IX. 


OBJECTIONS  TO  MORMONISM. 


407 


^^Tliat  the  three  original  witnesses  to  the  'Booh  of  Mormon  aposta- 
tized and  denied  its  truth."  To  this  the  Mormons  add,  that  after  a 
season  those  apostates  duly  repented  and  were  rebaptized;  one 
has  died ;  the  second,  Martin  Harris,  is  now  a  Saint  in  Kirtlaud 
Ohio;  and  the  third,  Sidney  Eigdon,  to  whom  the  faith  owed  so 
muoh,  left  the  community  after  the  Prophet's  martyrdom,  saying 
that  it  had  chosen  the  wrong  path,  but  never  rejecting  Mormon- 
ism  nor  accusing  it  of  fraud.  The  witnesses  to  those  modern  ta- 
bles of  the  law  (the  Golden  Plates)  were  but  eleven  in  toto,  and 
formed  only  three  families  interested  in  the  success  of  the  scheme. 
The  same  paucity,  or  rather  absence  of  any  testimony  which  would 
be  valid  in  a  modern  court  of  justice,  marks  the  birth  of  every 
new  faith,  not  excluding  the  Christian.  And,  finally,  wickedness 
proved  against  the  witnesses  does  not  invalidate  the  value  of  their 
depositions.  The  disorders  in  the  conduct  of  David  and  Solomon, 
for  instance,  do  not  affect  the  inspiration  of  the  Psalms  and  Can- 
ticles. 

"  That  Mormon  apostles  and  ciders^  as  Parley  P.  Pratt  and  John 
Taylor^  denied  the  existence  ofpohjcfamy^  even  after  it  icas  known  and 
practiced  by  their  communityy  The  Mormons  reply  that  they  nev- 
er attempted  to  evade  the  imputation  of  the  true  patriarchal  mar- 
riage :  they  merely  asserted  their  innocence  of  the  "  spiritual  wife- 
dom,"  the  Free  Loveism  and  the  Fanny  Wrightism  of  the  Eastern 
States — charges  brought  against  them  by  the  anti-Mormons. 

Having  thus  disposed  of  the  principal  allegations,  I  will  more 
briefly  allude  to  the  minor. 

'^2  hat  the  Mormons  do  not  alloto  monogamy ."  This  I  know  not 
to  be  the  fact,  as  several  of  my  acquaintances  had  and  have  but 
one  wife.  "  That  a  midtitude  of  saints,  2)rop)hcts,  and  apostles  are  in 
full  chase  after  a  looman,,  xohom  the  absence  of  her  husbaiid  releases 
from  her  vows;  that  the  missionary  on  duty  appoints  a  proxy  or  vi- 
carious head  to  his  house,  and  that  his  spouses  are  married  pro  tem- 
pore to  ciders  and  apostles  at  home."  Mrs.  Ferris  has  dreamed  out 
this  "abyss  of  abomination,"  and  then  uses  it  to  declaim  against. 
But  is  it  at  all  credible?  Would  not  such  conduct  speedily  de- 
moralize and  demolish  n  society  which  even  its  enemies  own  to 
bo  peculiarly  pure?  "  That  the  Mormons  are  ' jealous  fellows'  " — a 
curious  contradiction  of  the  preceding  charges.  The  Saints  hold 
to  the  semi-seclusion  of  Athens,  Rome,  and  Syria,  where  "she  was 
the  best  of  women  of  whom  least  is  said,  cither  of  good  or  harm," 
believing  with  the  world  generally  that  opportunity  often  makes 
the  thief.  *^That  the  3formons  'i«'a;),'  sell,  exchange,  and  transfer 
tlieir  wives  to  Indians."  Mrs.  Ferris  started  the  story,  which  car- 
ries its  own  refutation,  by  chronicling  a  report  of  the  kind ;  and 
Mr.  Ward  improves  upon  it  by  supplying  false  instances  and 
names,  "  That  the  utmost  latitude  of  niatmcrs  is  allowed  in  the  ball- 
room, and  the  theatre,"  which  arc  compared  to  the  j)rivate  reunions 
of  Ro.sanna  TqwusouJ  aud  other  A.m'taHinM      The  contrarv  is  no- 


408 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


toriously  the  case.  "  That  the  young  Mormons  are  frequently  guilty 
of  the  crimes  of  Absalom  and  other  horrible  offenses."  Unprejudiced 
Grentiles  always  deny  the  truth  of  such  accusations.  "  2'hat  the 
Mormon  has  no  home,  and  that  Mormon  houses  are  dirty,  slovenly, 
and  tmcomfortable."  The  Far  West  is  not  remarkable  for  neat- 
ness :  the  only  exceptions  to  the  rule  of  filth  which  I  have  seen 
are  in  the  abodes  of  the  Mormons.  "  That  ^  plurality  families'  are 
in  a  state  of  'perpetual  storm"  I  believe  that  many  a  "  happy  En- 
glish home"  is  far  stormier,  despite  the  holy  presence  of  mono- 
gamy. Even  Mrs.  Ferris  tells  of  two  wives,  one  young,  the  other 
old,  "who  treated  each  other  with  that  degree  of  affectionate  cor- 
diality which  properly  belongs  to  the  intercourse  between  mother 
and  daughter,"  and — naively  wonder-struck  by  what  she  could 
not  understand — exclaims,  "What  a  strange  spectacle!"  '•'•That 
women  must  be  married  to  be  saved."  The  orthodox  Mormon  be- 
lief is  that  human  beings  are  sent  into  the  world  to  sow  seed  for 
heaven ;  that  a  woman  who  wittingly,  and  for  stupid  social  Bel- 
gravian-mothcr  motives,  fails  in  so  aoing,  neglects  a  vital  duty, 
and  that  whoso  gives  not  children  to  the  republic  has  lived  ni 
vain — an  opinion  which  the  Saints  arc  contented  to  share  with 
Moses  and  Mohammed,  Augustus  Ciesar  and  Napoleon  Bonaparte. 
"  That  the  Mormons  marry  for  eternity."  They  believe  that  Adam 
and  Eve,  when  wholly  pure,  were  so  married,  and  that  redemption 
signifies  a  complete  restoration  to  all  the  privileges  lost  by  tlic 
fall.  "  That  Mormons  are  '  scaled^  to  rich  old  women."  The  vctula 
beata  exists,  I  believe,  almost  universally.  "  That  Mormons  marry 
and  seal  for  the  ilead."  As  has  been  seen,  it  is  a  principle  of  faith 
that  all  ordinances  for  the  living  may  vicariously  be  ])crformcd 
for  tlioso  departed.  "  'That  Mormon  icomen  are  pale,  thin,  badly  and 
carelessly  dressed,  and  poorly  fed — that  tliey  exhibit  a  sense  of  depres- 
sion and  degradation.^  I  found  them  exceedingly  pretty  and  at- 
tractive, especially  Miss .    "  That  it  is  dangerous  to  be  the  rival 

of  a  Mormon  elder  in  love  and  business."  This  is  true  only  so  far 
that  the  Saint  is  jirobably  a  better  man  than  the  Gentile.  T  have 
been  assured  by  Gentiles  that  they  would  rather  trust  the  follow- 
ers of  Mr.  .Tosenh  Smith  than  their  own  people,  and  that,  under 
Morniou  rule,  there  never  has  been,  and  never  can  be,  a  case  of 
bankruptcy.  The  hunters  and  Indian  traders  dislike  the  Saints 
for  two  chief  reasons :  in  the  first  place,  the  lumfing-grounds  have 
been  narrowed;  and,  secondly,  industry  and  sobriety  have  taken 
the  place  of  rollick inj'  and  dare-devilism.  "  That  the  Mormons  arc 
bigoted  aiui  intolerant.^  The  Mormon's  golden  rule  is,  "Mind  your 
own  business,  and  let  your  neighbor  mind  liis."  At  Great  Salt 
Lake  City  I  found  all  the  most  violent  anti-Mormon  books,  and 
have  ohtm  heard  Gentiles  talk  in  a  manner  which  would  not  bo 
tolerated  in  I'aris,  Ivondon,  and  Home.  "  That  the  Church  claims 
rm.v,Hsifm  nf^  and  authority  over,  a  dead  disciplc\<i  gncnU  and  chatlils." 
This  is  douo  only  iu  cases  whcu  heirs  fail.     "  Thul  il  in  the  M<>r- 


n 


Chap.  IX. 


POLITICAL  OBJECTIONS. 


409 


mon^s  duty  to  lay  all  his  possessions  at  the  apostles'  feet.^^  The  Mor- 
mons believe  that  the  Lord  has  ordered  his  Church  to  be  estab- 
lished on  earth ;  that  its  success  involves  man's  salvation  •  that 
the  aj)ostles  are  the  pillars  of  the  sacred  edifice,  and  that  the  dis- 
ciple is  bound,  like  Barnabas,  when  called  upon,  to  lay  his  all  at 
the  apostles'  feet ;  practically,  however,  the  measure  never  takes 
place.  "  That  the  high  dignitaries  are  enriched  by  tithes  and  by  plun- 
dering the  people.''  I  believe,  for  reasons  before  given,  this  asser- 
tion to  be  as  wholly  destitute  of  fact  as  of  probability.  "  That  the 
elders  borrow  money  from  their  Gentile  disciples,  and  that  the  Saints 
'milk  the  Gentiles.' "  The  Mormons,  like  sensible  men,  do  not  deny 
that  their  net  has  drawn  up  bad  fish  as  well  as  good ;  they  assert, 
however,  and  I  believe  with  truth,  that  their  community  will  bear 
comparison  in  point  of  honesty  with  any  other. 

I  have  already  remarked  how  thoroughly  hateful  to  the  petu- 
lant fanatical  republican  of  the  New  World  is  the  Mormon  state 
within  state,  their  absolute  aristocracy  clothed  in  the  wolf-skin  of 
democracy;  and  I  have  also  shown  how  little  of  that  "largest 
liberty,"  concerning  which  the  traveler  in  the  United  States  hears 
so  often  and  sees  so  seldom,  has  been  extended  to  them  or  to  their 
institutions.  Let  us  now  consider  a  few  of  the  political  objections 
to  Mor monism. 

"  That  the  Mormon  Church  overshadoirs  and  controverts  the  actions 
and  opinions,  the  property,  and  even  the  lives  of  its  members."  The 
Mormons  boast  that  their  Church,  which  is  their  state,  does  so 
legitimately,  and  deny  any  abuse  of  its  power.  "  That  the  Church 
usurps  and  exercises  the  legislative  and  2)olitical  busiiwss  of  the  Ter- 
ritory." The  foregoing  pages  disprove  this.  "  That  the  Church  or- 
ganizes and  commands  a  military  force."  True,  for  her  own  pro- 
tection. ''That  the  Church  disjwscs  of  public  lands  on  her  oion 
terms."  Tlic  Mormons  reply  that,  as  squatters,  they  have  earned 
by  their  improvements  the  right  of  pre-emption,  and  as  the  fed- 
eral government  delays  to  recognize  their  title,  they  approve  of 
the  Church  so  doing.  "That  the  Church  has  coined  money  and 
forced  its  circulation.''^  The  former  clause  is  admitted,  and  tlie  ex- 
cellence of  the  Californian  gold  is  warranted ;  the  latter  is  justly 
treated  with  ridicule.  "  That  the  Church  levies  the  tenth  part  of  every 
thing  from  its  members  umkr  the  charge  oftithim/."  The  Mormons 
derive  tliis  practice  from  the  laws  of  "Moses,  and  assert  that  tlie  gift 
13  j)uroly  a  free-will  ofiering  estimated  by  the  donor,  and  never 
taken  except  from  those  who  are  in  full  communion.  "  7''hat  the 
Church  imposes  cnor7nous  tcwcs  upon  Gentile  cifizots."  The  Mor- 
mons own  that  they  leyy  a  large  octroi,  in  the  form  of  a  regulated 
license  system,  vmon  ardent  sjiirits,  but  tlioy  deny  that  more  is 
taken  from  tlie  Ucntilo  than  from  the  Saint.  "That  the  Church 
sxipervises  and  penetrates  into  the  domestic  circle,  and  enjoins  and  in- 
culcates obedieucr  to  her  own  counsrh,  a.<i  articles  of  faith  paramount 
lu  alt  (he  obligadons  of  society  and  invralid/,  alUviancc  and  law." 


.'il 

m 


.11 J 


410 


THE  crry  of  the  saints. 


Chap.  K. 


The  Mormons  reply  that  the  counsel  and  the  obligations  run  in 
the  same  grooves. 

Mormonism  in  England  would  soon  have  fallen  to  the  level 
of  Leeism  or  Irvingisra ;  its  teachers  to  the  rank  of  the  South- 
coteans  and  Muggletonians.  Its  unparalleled  rise  and  onward 
march  could  have  taken  place  only  in  a  new  hemisphere,  in  an- 
other world.  Its  genius  is  essentially  Anglo- Araencan,  without 
one  taint  of  Gallic,  Teutonic,  or  Keltic.  It  is  Eationalistic :  the 
analytic  powers,  sharpened  by  mundane  practice,  and  whoUv  un- 
encumbered by  religious  formal  discipline,  are  allowed,  in  things 
ultra  mundane,  a  scope,  a  perfect  freedom,  that  savors  of  irrever- 
ence :  thus  the  Deity  is  somewhere  spoken  of  as  a  "  right-hand 
man."  It  is  Exaggerative  in  matter  as  in  manner:  the  Penta- 
teuch, for  instance,  was  contented  with  one  ark,  Mormonism  re- 
quired eight.  It  is  Simplificative :  its  fondness  for  facilitation  has 
led  it  through  literalism  into  that  complete  materialism  which,  to 
choose  one  point  only,  makes  the  Creator  of  the  same  species  as 
his  creature.  It  is  Imitative  to  an  extent  that  not  a  vestige  of 
originality  appears:  the  Scripture  names  arc  carefully  moulded 
in  Ilebrew  shape ;  and,  to  quote  one  of  many  instances,  the  death- 
bed of  the  first  patriarch  ("  Life  of  Joseph  Smith,  the  Prophet," 
chap,  xlii.)  is  a  travestie  of  that  of  Israel,  with  his  prayers,  proph- 
ecies, and  blessings ;  while  the  titles  of  the  apostles,  c.  g.,  Lion  of 
the  Lord,  are  literally  borrowed  from  El  Islam.  It  has  a  mystic 
element  the  otlier  side  of  its  severe  rationalism,  even  as  the  Amer- 
ican character  mixes  transcendentalism  with  the  purest  literalism, 
as  Mr.  Emerson,  the  Sufi,  contrasts  with  the  Pilgrim  fathers  and 
Sam  Slick.  It  is  essentially  Practical,  though  commonplaces  and 
generalisms  are  no  part  of  its  composition.  Finally,  it  is  admi- 
rably puffed,  as  the  note  upon  Mormon  bibliography  proves — bet- 
ter advertised  than  Colonel  Colt's  excellent  revolvers. 

I  had  proposed  to  write  a  chapter  similar  to  this  upon  the  Mor- 
mon annals.  After  sundry  attempts,  the  idea  was  abandoned  in 
despair.  It  would  be  necessary  to  give  two  distinct  or  rather  op- 
posite versions — according  to  tlic  Mormons  and  the  anti-Mormons 
— of  every  motive  and  action  which  liavo  engenderid  and  pro- 
duced history.  Such  a  style  would  not  be  lively.  Moreover,  the 
excessive  jxjsitivism  with  which  each  side  maintains  its  facts,  and 
the  palpable  sacrifice  of  truth  to  party  feeling,  would  make  it  im- 
possible for  any  but  an  eye-witness,  who  had  lived  through  the 
scenes,  and  had  preserved  his  impartiality,  to  separate  the  wheat 
from  the  chaff.     The  Mormons  declare  that  if  they  knew  their 

{)ropliet  to  1)0  an  impostor,  they  could  still  love,  respect,  and  fol- 
ow  him  in  this  life  to  the  next.  The  Gentiles,  I  can  see,  would 
not  accept  him,  even  if  ho  were  proposed  to  them  by  n  spirit  from 
the  other  world.  There  is  little  inuueement  in  this  case  to  break 
the  scripturu-  injunction,  "Judge  not," 

Under  these  considerations,  I  havo  added  to  tbo  Appendix 


Chap.  IX. 


MORMON  CHRONOLOGY. 


411 


(No.  y.)  a  detailed  chronological  table  of  Mormon  events :  it  is 
compiled  from  both  parties,  and  has  at  least  one  merit—impar- 
tiality. ^ 


mm- 


CHRONOLOGY  OP  THE  MOST  IMPORTANT  EVENTS 
RECORDED  IN  THE  BOOK  OF  MORMON. 

(5y  Elder  James  Marsden,  and  printed  in  the  Compendium  of  Faith  and  Doctrines,') 
B.C. 

600.  Lehi,  Sariah,  and  their  four  sons,  Laman,  Lemuel,  Sam,  and 
Nephi,  left  Jerusalem  by  the  commandment  of  God,  and 
journeyed  into  the  wilderness  of  Arabia  (p.  17,  44,  97,  pars. 
3,  47,  4). 

Lehi  and  his  family  arrived  at  the  land  Bountiful,  so  called  be- 
cause of  Its  much  fruit.  Its  modem  name  is  Arabia  Felix,  or 
Arabia  the  Happy  (p.  36,  par.  17). 

Jacob  and  Josepii  were  consecrated  priests  and  teachers  over 
the  people  of  Nephi  (p.  66,  par.  5). 

Nephi  was  commanded  to  make  a  second  volume  of  plates  (p. 
67,  par.  6).  t-  \f 

Nephi  commanded  Jacob  to  write  on  the  small  plates  such 

things  as  he  considered  most  precious  (p.  114,  par.  1). 
Jacob  having  committed  the  records  into  the  hands'  of  his  son 

Enos,  and  Enos  being  old,  he  gave  the  records  into  the  hands 

of  his  son  Jarom  (p.  133, 136,  pars.  9,  7). 
The  people  of  Nephi  kept  the  law  of  Moses,  and  they  rapidly 

increased  in  numbers,  and  Avero  greatly  prospered  (p.  137. 

par.  3).  ^  X      r  u         , 

Jarom  being  old,  delivered  the  records  into  the  hands  of  his  son 
Omni  (p.  138,  par.  6). 

Omni  was  a  wicked  man,  but  ho  defended  the  Nephites  from 
their  enemies  (p.  lol,  par.  2). 

Amaron  delivered  the  plates  to  his  brother  Chemish  fp.  139. 
par.  3).  ^* 

Alter  Abinadom,  the  son  of  Chemish,  Amaleki,*  the  son  of 
Abinadom,  King  Benjamin,  and  Mosiah  had  successively  kept 
the  records,  Mosiah,  the  son  of  King  Benjamin,  was  conse- 
crated king  (p.  167,  par.  2). 

Mosiah  sent  sixteen  men  to  the  land  of  Lehi-Nephi  to  inquire 
concerning  their  brethren  (p.  158,  par.  2). 

Mosiah  dietl,  having  conferred  the  records  upon  Alma,  who  was 
the  son  of  Alma.    Mosiah  also  established  a  republican  form 

•  ■While  Amaloki  wns  kroping  the  records,  Mosinh,  the  father  of  Kinp  Benjamin, 
nnil  as  mniiy  ns  would  hi-nrkcn  to  the  voice  of  Cod,  were  commanded  to  go  into  tho 
wildcme»8,  and  were  led  by  tho  power  of  tho  Almighty  to  tho  Lund  of  Zarahemlo, 
where  they  di.srovered  a  i>eo))!c  who  left  Jcnisnloiii  at  tho  tinio  that  Zcdekiah  was 
carried  nwav  cnptivo  into  Babylon.  They  were  led  by  Miilik,  tho  only  surviving 
»on  of  Zedekiah ;  and  on  their  arrival  in  America,  met  witii  Corinntiimr,  the  late 
king  of  iho  JarcditoH,  who  were  slain  a  little  provioua  to  tho  immigration  of  Mulok 
and  his  pcoplo  (p.  13'J,  40,  411,  541),  pars.  C,  U). 


692. 

570. 
660. 
645. 
421. 

400. 

862. 
324. 
280. 
124. 

121. 
Gl. 


HtiriMi^irij|-|{ 


412 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


RC. 

of  government,  and  appointed  Alma  the  first  and  chief  judge 
of  the  land  (p.  205,  209,  pars.  1,  7). 

90.  Nehor  suffered  an  ignominious  death  for  apostasy  and  for  kill- 
ing  Gideon  (p.  210,  pars.  3,  4). 

86.  The  usurper  Amlici  was  slain  by  Alma.  In  this  year  many  bat- 
tles were  fought  between  the  Nephites  on  the  one  hand,  and 
the  Amlicites,  who  were  Nephite  revolutionists,  and  the  La- 
manites  on  the  other.  The  Nephites  were  mostly  victorious 
(p.  215,  217,  pars.  14,18). 

85.  Peace  was  restored  and  many  were  baptized  in  the  waters  of 
Sidon,  and  became  members  of  the  Church  (p.  218,  par.  1). 

84.  Peace  continued,  and  three  thousand  five  hundred  became  mem- 
bers of  the  Church  of  God  (p.  218,  par.  2). 

83.  The  members  of  the  Church  became  proud  because  of  their 
great  riches  (p.  218,  par.  3). 

82.  Alma  delivered  up  the  office  of  chief  judge  to  Nephilah,  and 
confined  himself  wholly  to  the  high  priesthood,  after  the  holy 
order  of  God  (p.  219,  par.  5). 

81.  Alma  performed  a  mission  to  the  land  of  Melek,  and  to  the  City 
Ammonihah  (p.  230,  pars.  2,  3). 

80.  Alma  and  Amulek  were  delivered  from  prison  by  the  mighty 
power  of  God  (p.  251,  par.  11). 

79.  The  Lamanitcs  destroyed  the  peoi^le  of  Ammonihah  (p.  253, 
par.  2). 

7G.  There  was  peace  during  three  years,  and  the  Church  was  great- 
ly prospered  (p.  254,  par.  8). 

75.  Amnion  performed  a  successful  mission  among  the  Lamanites 
(p.  288,  par.  10). 

73.  Korihor,  tlio  great  anti-Christ,  made  his  appearance  (p.  290, 
par.  2). 

72.  Alma  committed  the  record  to  the  keeping  of  his  son  Ilelaman, 
and  comra.anded  him  to  continue  the  history  of  his  people  (p. 
310,  par.  5), 

71.  The  Nephites  obtained  a  complete  victory  over  the  Lamanites 
in  the  borders  of  Manti  (p.  331,  par.  10). 

71.  Ileluman  performed  a  successful  mission  among  the  Nephites 
(p.  333,  par.  4), 

09.  Moroni  commanded  that  the  Nephites  should  fortify  all  their 
cities.     They  also  built  many  cities  (p.  340,  ]>ar.  1). 

08.  This  was  the  most  comfortable,  prosperous,  and  ha])py  year  that 
tiio  Nephites  had  ever  seen  (p.  348,  par.  3). 

05.  The  ])eoplo  of  Morianton  prevented  from  escaping  to  the  North 
or  Lake  Country.  Also  Nephilah  died,  and  his  son  Pahoran 
succeeded  him  .is  chief  judge  of  the  land  (p.  348,  pars.  5,  8). 

64.  A  contention  between  tlie  advocates  of  monarchy  on  the  one 
hand,  and  of  republicanism  on  the  other,  was  ])caccJibly  set- 
tled by  the  voice  of  the  j)cople.  IJut  4000  of  the  monarchy 
men  were  slain  for  rcfusiiig  to  take  up  arms  in  defense  of 
their  country  against  the  Lamanites  (p.  350,  par.  3). 

63.  Preparations  for  war  between  the  Nephites  and  the  Lamanites 
were  made  (p.  354,  i)ar.  4). 


Chap.  IX. 


MORMON  CHRONOLOGY. 


413 


B.C. 
62. 
61. 


60. 
59. 

68. 
64. 
63. 
52. 
60. 
49. 

48. 

47. 

46. 
45. 
44. 
43. 

36. 
31. 

28. 
27. 

26. 
23. 


22. 
21. 


The  same  continued  (p.  355,  par.  4). 

Moroni  retook  the  city  of  Melek,  and  obtained  a  complete  vie- 

tory  over  the  Lamanites  (p.  366,  par.  12). 
Moroni,  by  stratagem,  overcame  the  Lamanites,  and  Uberated 

his  people  from  prison  (p.  363,  par.  7). 
Moroni  received  an  epistle  from  Helaman,  of  the  city  of  Judea 

m  which  18  set  forth  the  wonderful  victories  obtained  in  that 

part  of  the  land  over  the  Lamanites  (p.  364,  par.  1). 
Moroni  obtained  possession  of  the  city  of  NephUah  (p.  386,  par. 

18).  * 

Peace  having  been  restored,  the  Church  became  very  prosper- 
ous,  and  Helaman  died  (p.  387,  par.  3).  ^  r      i 

Shiblon  took  possession  of  the  sacred  records,  and  Moroni  died 
(p.  387,  pars.  1,  2). 

5400  men,  with  their  wives  and  children,  left  Zarahemla  for  the 
JNorth  country  (p.  388,  par.  3). 

Shiblon  conferred  the  sacred  records  upon  Helaman,  the  son  of 
Helaman,  and  then  died  (p.  388,  par.  5). 

Pahoran,  the  chief  judge,  having  died,  his  son  Pahoran  was  ap- 
pointed to  succeed  him.  This  Pahoran  was  murdered  by 
liisheumen,  and  his  brother  Pacumeni  Avas  appointed  bv  his 
successor  (p.  389,  par.  3).  ^ 

Coriantumr  led  a  numerous  host  against  Zarahemla,  took  the 
city,  and  killed  Pacumeni;  but  Moronihah  retook  the  city, 
slew  Coriantumr,  and  obtained  a  complete  victory  over  the 
Lamanites  (p.  390,  par.  5). 

Helaman  was  appointed  chief  judge,  and  the  band  of  Gadian- 
ton  robbers  was  organized  (p.  392,  par.  8). 

Peace  reigned  among  the  Nephites  (p.  393,  par.  1). 

Peace  continued  (n.  393,  par.  1). 

Peace  continued  (p.  393,  par.  l). 

Great  contention  among  the  Nephites;  many  of  them  traveled 
northward  (p.  394,  par.  2). 

Ilelaman  died,  and  his  son  Nephi  was  appointed  chief  judge. 

The  Nephites,  because  of  their  wickedness,  lost  many  of  their 
cities,  and  many  of  them  were  slain  by  the  Lamanites  (p.  397 
par.  8).  \i         » 

The  Nephites  repented  at  the  preaching  of  Moronihah  ^p.  397, 
par.  10).  ^*         ' 

Moronihah  could  obtain  no  more  possessions  from  the  Laman- 
ites. Nephi  vacated  the  office  of  cliief  judge  in  favor  of  Cc- 
zoram  (p.  398,  399,  pars.  11,13).  The  greater  part  of  the  La- 
manites became  a  righteous  people  (p.  403,  par,  26), 

Noi)hi  and  Lohi  went  northward  to  preach  unto  the  people  (p. 
404,  par.  26).  i-    i      Vf 

Cezoram  was  murdered  by  an  unknown  hand  as  he  sat  on  the 
jndgment-scat.  His  son,  who  was  appointed  to  succeed  him, 
was  also  murdered  (p.  404,  par.  28). 

Tlio  Nephites  became  very  wicked  (p.  400,  par,  31). 

The  Lamanites  observed  the  laws  ot  righteousness,  and  utterly 

-'•—'fjvU    

par.  32). 


«)>.<  nn^i:,>«>».. i.i X' ..         y      .-- 

vuv  ■watiioiiivu  ivuutis  iruui  among  tnem  (p.  4UU, 


\ii\ 


r 


414 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


20.  Men  belonging  to  the  Gadianton  band  usurped  the  judgment- 
seat  (p.  407,  par.  1). 

18.  Nephi  prophesied  many  unportant  things  agamst  his  people  (p. 
416,  par.  15). 

14.  Three  years'  famine  brought  the  people  to  repentance,  and 
caused  them  to  destroy  the  Gadianton  robbers  (p.  417,  pars. 

2  3^ 
13.  Peace  being  restored,  the  people  spread  themselves  abroad,  to 

repair  their  waste  places  (p.  418,  par.  4). 
12.  The  majority  of  the  people,  both  Nephites  and  Laraamtes,  be- 
came members  of  the  Church  (p.  418,  par.  4). 
9.  Certain  dissenters  among  the  Nephites  stirred  up  the  Laman- 

ites  against  their  brethren,  and  they  revived  the  secrets  of 

Gadianton  (p.  419,  par.  6). 
5.  The  Lamanites  prevailed  against  the  Nephites,  because  of  their 

great  wickedness  (p.  420,  par.  1). 
4.  Samuel  the  Lamanite  performed  a  mission  among  the  Nephites 

(p.  422,  par.  1).  ,         ,    , 

1.  Great  signs  and  wonders  were  given  unto  the  people,  and  the 

words  of  the  Prophets  began  to  be  fulfilled  (p.  431,  par. 

10). 
Lachoneus  was  the  chief  judge  and  governor  of  the  land.    Ne- 
phi gave  the  records  into  the  hands  of  his  son  Nephi  (p.  432, 

The  Lord  revealed  to  Nephi  that  ho  would  come  into  the  world 
the  next  day,  and  many  signs  of  his  coming  were  given  (p. 
433,  par.  3). 


A.C 


3.  The  Gadianton  robbers  committed  many  depredations  (p.  434, 

par.  6). 

4.  The  Gadianton  robbers  greatly  increased  (p.  434,  par.  G). 

9.  The  Nephites  began  to  reckon  their  time  from  the  coming  of 

Christ  (p.  435,  par.  8). 
13.  The  Nephites  were  joined  by  many  of  the  Lamanites  in  defense 
against  the  robbers,  who  had  now  become  very  numerous  and 
formidable  (p.  436,  par.  9). 

15.  The  Nephites  were  worsted  in  several  engagements  (p.  436, 

par.  10). 

16.  Gidgidoni,  who  was  a  chief  judge  and  a  great  prophet,  was  ap- 

pointed commander-in-chief  (p.  438,  par,  3). 

17.  The  Nephites  gathered  thor  .^elves  together  for  the  purpose  of 

mutual  defense,  and  provided  themselves  with  seven  years' 
provisions  (p.  439,  par.  4). 

19.  A  great  battle  was  fought  between  the  Nephites  and  the  Gadi- 
anton robbers,  in  which  the  latter  were  deteated,  and  their 
leader,  Giddianhi,  was  slain  (p.  440,  pars.  0,  8). 

21.  The  Nephites  slew  tens  of  thousands  of  the  robbers,  and  took 
all  that  were  alive  prisoners,  and  hanged  their  loader,  Fcra- 
narilmh  (p.  441,  442,  pars.  0, 10).^      ^ 

25.  Mormon  made  new  piaics,  upon  which  he  utudc  a  reeord  of  Vrbat 


Chap.  IX. 


MOBMON  CHRONOLOGY. 


415 


A.C. 

26. 
30. 

31. 

32. 

33. 
34 


35. 

36. 

37. 

69. 

100. 

110. 

194. 
201. 

210. 

230. 

231. 
244. 

260. 

300. 

305. 

320. 


took  place  from  the  time  Lehi  left  Jerusalem  until  his  own 
rrul'  ^v?  ^^^^  ^  ^'?*°''y  ^^^'^  ''^''1  ti^es  (p.  443,  par.  11) 
.  Ihe  Nephites  spread  themselves  abroad  on  their  former  posses- 

.  Lachoneus,  the  son  of  Lachoneus,  was  appointed  governor  of  the 
land.  He  was  murdered,  and  the  people  became  divided  into 
numerous  tribes  (p.  446,  447,  pars.  3,  4). 

Nephi  having  great  faith  in  God,  angels  did  mmister  to  him 
daily  (p.  449,  par.  8). 

The  few  who  were  converted  through  the  preaching  of  Nenhi 
were  greatly  blessed  of  God  (p.  449,  par.  10). 

Many  were  baptized  into  the  Church  (p.  449,  par.  10). 

A  terrible  tempest  took  place,  which  changed  and  deformed  the 
whole  face  of  the  land.  Three  days  elapsed  during  which  no 
light  was  seen.  ^ 

The  voice  of  Jesus  Christ  was  heard  by  all  the  people  of  the 
land,  declaring  that  he  had  caused  this  destruction,  and  com- 
manding them  to  cease  to  offer  burnt-offerings  and  sacrifices 
(p.  463,  pars.  7,  8), 

In  this  year  Jesus  Christ  appeared  among  the  Nephites,  and 
unlolded  to  them  at  large  the  principles  of  the  Gospel  (p. 
455^  pars.  11,  1).  The  apostles  of  Christ  formed  a  Church 
of  Christ  (p.  492,  par.  1), 

Both  the  Nephites  and  the  Lamanites  were  all  converted,  and 
had  all  things  in  common  (p,  492,  par.  2). 

Many  miracles  were  wrought  by  the  disciples  of  Jesus  (p.  492 
par.  3).  i  vf         > 

The  people  rebuilt  the  city  of  Zarahemla,  and  were  very  pros- 
perous (p.  493,  par.  3). 

The  disciples  of  Jesus,  whom  he  had  chosen,  had  all  gone  to 
Paradise  except  the  three  who  obtained  the  promise  that 
they  should  not  taste  of  death  (p.  493,  par.  5). 

Nephi  died,  and  his  son  Amos  kept  the  record  (p.  493,  par. 

Amos  died,  and  his  son  Amos  kept  the  record  (p.  494,  par.  7). 
The  people  ceased  to  have  all  things  in  common ;  they  becanio 

proud,  and  were  divided  into  classes  (p.  494,  par.  7). 
There  were  many  churches  who  were  opposed  to  the  true 

Church  of  Christ  (p.  494,  par.  8). 
The  people  dwindled  in  unbelief  and  wickedness  from  year  to 

year  (p.  494,  par.  8). 
A  great  division  took  place  among  the  people  (p.  495,  par.  8). 
The  wicked  part  of  the  people  becjpie  stronger  and  more  nu- 
merous than  the  righteous  (p.  49^  par.  9). 
The  people  began  to  build  up  the  secret  oaths  and  combinations 

of  Gadianton  (p.  496,  par.  9). 
The  Gadianton  robbers  spread  themselves  all  over  the  face  of 

the  land  (p.  490,  par.  10). 
Amos  died,  and  his  brother  Ammaron  kept  the  record  in  his 

stead  (p.  496,  par.  11). 
Ammaron  l-id  up  all  the  gacrcd  records  unto  the  Lord,  and  gave 


416 


THE  CITT  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  IX. 


commandment  unto  Mormon  concerning  them  (p.  496,  pars. 

11,1).  ,  T  .       . 

321.  A  war  commenced  between  the  Nephites  and  Lamamtes,  in 
which  the  former  were  victorious  (p.  497,  par.  2). 

325.  Mormon  was  restrained  from  preaching  to  the  people,  and  be- 

cause of  their  wickedness,  and  the  prevalence  of  sorceries, 
witchcrafts,  and  magic,  their  treasures  slipped  away  from 
them  (p.  497,  par.  2).  „  ,     ^^    , .  .      /     .„„ 

326.  Mormon  was  appointed  leader  of  the  Nephite  armies  (p.  498, 

330.  A  great  battle  took  place  in  the  land  of  Joshua,  in  which  the 
Nephites  were  victorious  (p.  498,  par.  3). 

344.  Thousands  of  the  Nephites  were  hewn  down  in  their  open  re- 

bellion against  God  (p.  499,  par.  4). 

345.  Mormon  had  obtained  the  plates  according  to  commandment 

of  Ammaron,  and  he  made  an  account  of  the  wickedness  and 
abominations  of  his  people  (p.  499,  par.  ^)- 

346.  The  Nephites  were  driven  northward  to  the  land  of  Shem,  and 

there  fought  and  beat  a  powerful  army  of  the  Lamanites  (p. 

500,  par.  6).  ,     „,..,. 
349,  The  Nephites  obtained  by  treaty  all  the  land  of  their  mhent- 

ance,  and  a  ten  years'  peace  ensued  (p.  500,  par.  6). 

360.  The  king  of  the  Lamanites  sent  an  epistle  to  Mormon  radicating 

that  they  were  again  preparing  for  war  (p.  601,  par.  7).    _ 

361.  A  battle  took  place  near  the  City  of  Desolation.    The  Nephites 

were  victorious  (p.  501,  par.  8). 

362.  A  second  battle  ensued  with  the  like  result  (p.  501,  par.  8). 

Mormon  now  gave  up  the  command  of  the  Nephite  army  (p. 

501,  par.  9).  ,    XT    T-  J 

363.  The  Lamanites  obtained  a  signal  victory  over  the  Nephites,  and 

took  possession  of  the  City  of  Desolation  (p.  502,  par.  1). 

364.  The  Nephites  retook  the  City  of  Desolation  (p.  503,  par.  2). 

366.  Tiie  Lamanites  again  took  possession  of  the  City  of  Desolation, 

and  also  succeeded  in  taking  the  City  of  Teancum  (p.  503, 
par.  3). 

367.  The  Nephites  avenged  the  murder  of  their  wives  and  children, 

and  drove  the  Lamanites  out  of  their  land ;  and  ten  years' 
peace  ensued  (p.  503,  par.  3^. 
376.  The  Lamanites  came  again  to  battle  with  the  Nephites,  and  boat 
them  (p.  504,  par.  3). 
The  Nephites  from  this  time  forth  were  prevailed  against  bv 
the  Lamanites ;  Mormon  therefore  took  all  the  records  which 
Ammaron  had  hidj|p  unto  the  Lord  (p.  504,  par.  3). 

379.  Mormon  resumed  the  command  of  the  Nephite  armies  (p.  504, 

par.  4). 

380.  Mormon  wrote  an  abridged  account  of  the  events  which  he  had 

seen  (p.  505,  par.  5). 
384.  The  Nepliitcs  encamped  around  the  hill  Cumorah.    Mormon  liid 
up  in  the  hill  Cumorah  all  the  nlates  that  were  committed  to 
his  trust,  except  a  few  which  lie  gave  to  his  son  Moroni  (p. 
507.  nars.  1.  2'k. 


Chap.  X. 


A.C. 


400 


THE  COUKT-HOUSE.— P.  K.  DOTSON. 


417 


The  battle  of  Cumorah  was  fought,  in  which  two  hundred  and 
thirty  thousand  of  the  Nephites  were  slain  (p.  607,  pars  2  3) 
All  the  Nephites,  as  a  distinct  people,  except  Moroni  were'de- 
stroyed  (p.  509,  par.  1). 
421,  Moroni  finished  and  sealed  up  all  the  records,  according  to  the 
commandment  of  God  (p.  661,  par.  1). 


CHAPTER  X. 

Farther  Observations  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

One  of  my  last  visits  was  to  the  court-house  on  an  interesting 
occasion.  The  Palais  de  Justice  is  near  where  the  old  fort  once 
was,  in  the  western  part  of  the  settlement.  It  is  an  unfinished 
building  of  adobe,  based  on  red  sandstone,  with  a  flag-staff  and  a 
tinned  roof,  which  gives  it  a  somewhat  Muscovite  appearance,  and 
it  cost  $20,000.  The  courts  and  Legislature  sit  in  a  neat  room 
with  curtains  and  chandeliers,  and  polished  pine-wood  furniture' 
all  as  yet  unfaded.  The  occasion  which  had  gathered  together 
the  notabilities  of  the  place  was  this :  Mr.  Peter  Dotson,  the 
United  States  Marshal  of  the  Territory,  living  at  Camp  Floyd 
and  being  on  the  opposition  side,  had  made  himself—the  Mor- 
mons say— an  unscrupulous  partisan.  In  July,  1859,  he  cams 
from  the  cantonment  armed  with  a  writ  issued  by  Mr.  Delana  R. 
Eckels,  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  accompanied  by 
two  officers  of  the  United  States  Army,  to  the  Holy  City  for  the 
purpose  of  arresting  a  Mr,  Mackenzie — now  in  the  Penitentiary 
for  counterfeiting  "  quarter-masters'  drafts" — an  engraver  by  pro- 
fession, and  then  working  in  the  Deseret  store  of  Mr.  Brigham 
Young.  Forgery  and  false  coining  are  associated  in  the  Gentile 
mind  with  Mormonism,  and  inveterately  so;  whether  truly  or 
not,  I  can  iiot  say :  it  is  highly  probable  that  Mr.  Bogus's*  habi- 
tat is  not  limited  by  latitude,  altitude,  or  longitude ;  at  the  same 
time,  the  Saints  are  too  much  en  evidence  to  entertain  him  pub- 
licly. The  marshal,  probably  not  aware  that  the  Territory  bad 
passed  no  law  enabling  the  myrmidons  of  justice  to  seize  suspi- 
cious implements  and  apparatus  made  main  forte,  levied,  despite 
due  notice,  upon  what  he  found  appertaining  to  Mr.  Mackenzie, 
a  Bible,  a  Book  of  Mormon,  and — ^riere  was  the  rub — the  copper 
plates  of  the  Deseret  Currencv  Association.  This  plunder  was 
deposited  for  the  night  with  tlie  governor,  and  was  carried  in  a 

*  Bogus,  according  to  Mr.  Bnrtlcft,  who  quotes  the  "Boston  Courier"  of  June  12, 
1857,  is  u  Wostcru  corruption  of  Borgliese,  "a  very  corrupt  individual,  who,  twenty 
years  ago  or  more,  did  a  tremendous  business  in  the  way  of  supplying  tlic  great  West 
and  portions  of  the  Southwest  with  counterfeit  bills  and  drafts  on  fictitious  banks." 
The  word  is  now  ap]ilied  in  the  sense  of  shnni,  forged,  counterfeit,  and  so  on ;  there 
are  bogus  laws  and  bogus  members ;  in  fact,  bogus  enters  every  where. 


Sir 


t* 


418 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


sack  on  the  next  clay  to  Camp  Floyd.  Then  the  anti-Mormons 
sang  lo  pajans ;  they  had— to  use  a  Western  phrase — "  got  the 
dead  wood  on  Brigliam ;"  letters  traced  back  to  officials  appeared 
in  the  Eastern  and  other  papers,  announcing  to  the  pubhc  that 
the  Prophet  was  a  detected  forger.  Presently,  the  true  character 
of  the  copper  plates  appearing,  they  were  generously  offered  back ; 
but,  as  trespass  had  been  committed,  to  say  nothing  of  libel,  and 
as  all  concerned  in  the  affair  were  obnoxious  men,  it  was  resolved 
to  try  law.  A  civil  suit  was  instituted,  and  a  sum  of  $1600  was 
claimed  for  damage  done  to  the  plates  by  scratching,  and  for  loss 
of  service,  which  hindered  business  in  the  city.  The  unfortunate 
marshal,  who  was  probably  a  "  cat's-paw,"  had  "  caught  a  Tartar ;" 
he  possessed  a  house  and  furniture,  a  carriage  and  horses,  all  of 
which  were  attached,  and  the  case  of  "  Brigham  Young,  sen.,  vs. 
P.  K.  Dotson,"  ended  in  a  verdict  for  the  plaintiff,  viz.,  value  of 
plates  destroyed,  $1668 ;  damages,  $64:8  66.  The  anti-Mormons 
declared  him  a  martyr ;  the  Mormons,  a  vicious  fool ;  and  sensi- 
ble Gentiles  asserted  that  he  was  rightly  served  for  showing  evil 
animus.  The  case  might  have  ended  badly  but  for  the  prudence 
of  the  governor.  Had  a  descent  been  made  for  the  purpose  of 
arrest  upon  the  Prophet's  house,  the  consequences  would  certain- 
ly have  been  serious  to  the  last  degree. 

The  cause  was  tried  in  the  Probate  Court,  which  I  have  ex- 
plained to  be  a  Territorial,  not  a  federal  court.  The  Honorable 
Elias  Smith  presided,  and  the  arguments  for  the  prosecution  and 
the  defense  were  conducted  by  the  ablest  Mormon  and  anti-Mor- 
mon lawyers.  I  attended  the  house,  and  carefully  watched  the 
proceedings,  to  detect,  if  possible,  intimidation  or  misdirection ; 
every  thing  was  done  with  even-handed  justice.  The  physical 
aspect  of  the  court  was  that  which  foreign  travelers  in  the  Far 
West  delight  to  describe  and  ridicule,  wholly  forgetting  that  they 
have  ..cen  the  same  scene  much  nearer  home.  His  honor  sat  with 
his  chair  tilted  back  and  his  boots  on  the  table,  exactly  as  if  he 
had  been  an  Anglo-Indian  collector  and  magistrate,  while  by  a 
certain  contraction  and  expansion  of  the  dexter  corner  of  his  well- 
closed  mouth  I  suspected  the  existence  of  the  quid.  The  posi- 
tion is  queer,  but  not  more  so  than  that  of  a  judge  at  Westmin- 
ster sleeping  soundly,  in  the  attitude  of  Pisa's  leaning  monster, 
upon  the  bench.  By  the  justice's  side  sat  the  portly  figure  of  Dr. 
Kay,  opposite  him  the  reporters,  at  other  tables  the  attorneys ;  the 
witnesses  stood  up  between  the  tables,  the  jury  were  on  the  left, 
and  the  public,  including  the  governor,  was  distributed  like  wall- 
flowers on  benches  around  the  room. 

There  is  a  certain  monotony  of  life  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City 
which  does  not  render  the  subject  favorable  for  description.  More- 
over, a  Moslem  gloom,  the  result  of  austere  morals  and  manners, 
of  the  semi-seclusion  of  the  sex,  and,  in  my  case,  of  a  reserve  aris- 
ing toward  a  stranger  who  appeared  in  the  train  of  federal  offi- 


Chat.  X. 


HISTORIAN  AND  RECORDER'S  OFFICE. 


419 


cials,  tangs  over  society.  There  is  none  of  that  class  which,  ac- 
cording to  the  French  author,  rej^ose  des  femmes  du  monde  We 
rose  early— in  America  the  climate  seems  to  militate  against  sluff- 
abedism  — and  breakfasted  at  any  hour  between  6  and  9  AM 
Ensued  "business,"  which  seemed  to  consist  principally  of  cor- 
recting one's  teeth,  and  walking  about  the  town,  wit^  occasional 
"liquoring  up."  Dinner  was  at  1  P.M.,  announced,  not  bv  the 
normal  gong  of  the  Eastern  States,  which  lately  so  direfully  of- 
tended  a  pair  of  Anglo-Hibernian  ears,  but  by  a  hand-bell  which 
sounded  the  pas  de  charge.  Jostling  into  the  long  room  of  the 
ordinary,  we  took  our  seats,  and,  seizing  our  forks,  proceeded  at 
once  to  action,  after  the  fashion  of  Puddingburn  House,  where 

"They  who  came  not  the  first  call, 
Got  no  meat  till  the  next  meal." 

Nothing  but  water  was  drunk  at  dinner,  except  when  a  gentle- 
man preferred  to  wash  down  roast  pork  with  a  tumbler  of  milk  • 
wine  in  this  part  of  the  world  is  of  course  dear  and  bad,  and  even 
should  the  bamts  make  their  own,  it  can  scarcely  be  cheap  on  ac- 
count of  the  price  of  labor.  Feeding  ended  with  a  glass  of  liquor, 
not  at  the  bar,  because  there  was  none,  but  in  the  privacy  of  one's 
chamber,  which  takes  from  drinking  half  its  charm.  Most  well- 
to-do  men  found  time  for  a  siesta  in  the  early  afternoon  There 
was  supper,  which  in  modern  English  parlance  would  be  called 
dinner,  at  6  P.M.,  and  the  evening  was  easily  spent  with  a  friend 
One  of  my  favorite  places  of  visiting  was  the  Historian  and 
Recorder  s  OfTice,  opposite  Mr.  Brigham  Young's  block.  It  con- 
tained a  small  collection  of  volumes,  together  with  papers,  official 
and  private,  plans,  designs,  and  other  requisites,  many  of  them 
written  m  the  Deserdt  alphabet,  of  which  I  subjoin  a  copy.*  It 
is,  as  will  readily  be  seen,  a  stereographic  modification  of  Pit- 
man s  and  other  systems.  Types  have  been  cast  for  it,  and  arti- 
cles are  printed  m  the  newspapers  at  times ;  as  man,  however 
prefers  two  alphabets  to  one,  it  will  probably  share  the  fate  of  the 
"  Fonetik  Nuz."  Sir  A.  Alison  somewhere  delivers  it  as  his  opin- 
ion that  the  future  historian  of  America  will  be  forced  to  Europe 
where  alone  his  material  can  be  found ;  so  far  from  this  being  the 
case,  the  reverse  is  emphatically  true :  every  where  in  the  States, 
even  in  the  newest,  the  Historical  Society  is  an  institution,  and 
men  pride  themselves  upon  laboring  for  it.  At  the  office  I  used 
to  meet  Mr.  George  A.  Smith,  the  armor-bearer  to  the  Prophet  in 
the  camp  of  Zion,  who  boasts  of  having  sown  the  first  seed,  built 
the  first  saw-mill,  and  ground  the  first  flour  in  Southern  Utah, 
whence  the  nearest  settlements,  separated  by  terrible  deserts,  were 
distant  200  miles.  His  companions  were  Messrs.  W.  Woodruff, 
Bishop  Bentley,  who  was  preparing  for  a  missionary  visit  to  En- 
gland, and  Wm.  Thomas  Bullock,  an  intelligent  Mormon,  who  has 
had  the  honor  to  bo  soundly  abused  in  Mrs.  Ferris's  11th  letter. 

*  See  next  pngo. 


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420 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


THE  DESERfiT  ALPHABET. 


VOCAL  SOUNDS. 


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The  lady's  "  wicked  Wolshman"— I  suppose  nho  remembered  the 
well-known  liuo  ancnt  tlio  sons  of  tho  L/vmri — 

••Taflfy  ii  a  WclihrnBii,  Taffy  is  a  tlucf  "— 

is  no  Cambrian,  but  nn  aborigine  of  Leek,  StafTonlshirc,  England, 
and  was  from  18SS  to  1848  an  exf-isf?  nfficr-r  i>i  her  mnjo«ty'H  In- 


Chap.  X. 


FEDERAL  OFFICIALS. 


421 


land  Revenue ;  lie  kindly  supplied  me  -with  a  plan  of  tlie  city,  and 
other  information,  for  wnich  he  has  my  grateful  thanks. 

At  the  office,  the  undying  hatred  of  all  things  Gentile-federal 
had  reached  its  climax ;  every  slight  offered  to  the  faith  by  anti- 
Mormons  is  there  laid  up  in  lavender,  every  grievance  is  careful- 
ly recorded.  There  I  heard  how,  at  a  general  conference  of  the 
Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints,  in  September,  1851, 
Perry  E.  Brocchus,  a  judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  having  the  de- 
sign of  becoming  Territorial  delegate  to  Congress,  ascended  the 
rostrum  and  foully  abused  their  most  cherished  institution,  po- 
lygamy.* He  was  answered  with  sternness  by  Mr.  Brigham 
Young,  and  really,  under  the  circumstances,  the  Saints  behaved 
very  well  in  not  proceeding  to  voies  de  fails.  Mr.  Brocchus,  see- 
ing personal  danger,  left  the  city  in  company  with  Chief  Justice 
L.  C.  Brandenburg  and  Mr.  Secretary  Harris,  whom  the  Mormons 
very  naturally  accused  of  carrying  away  $24,000,  the  sum  appro- 

Eriated  by  Congress  for  the  salary  and  the  mileage  of  the  local 
legislature,  thus  putting  a  clog  upon  the  wheels  of  government. 
I  also  heard  how  Judge  Drumraon'^  in  1856,  began  the  troubles 
by  fiilsely  reporting  to  the  federal  authority  that  the  Mormons 
were  in  a  state  of  revolt ;  that  they  had  burned  the  public  library, 
and  were,  in  fact,  defying  the  Union — how,  bigotry  doing  its  work, 
the  officials  at  Washington  believed  the  tale  without  investiga- 
tion, and  sent  an  array  which  was  ready  to  renew  the  scenes  of 
St.  Bartholomew  and  Nauvoo.  The  lederal  troops  were  rather 
pitied  than  hated ;  had  they  been  militia  they  would  have  been 
wiped  out;  but  "wretched  Dutchmen,  and  poor  devils  of  Irish- 
men," acting  under  orders,  were  simply  despised.  Their/amean- 
tisc  was  contrasted  most  unfavorably  with  the  fiery  Mormon  youth 
that  was  spoiling  for  a  fight ;  that  could  ride,  like  part  of  the 
horse,  down  places  where  no  trooper  dared  venture ;  that  packed 
up  a  dollar  at  full  gallop,  drove  off  the  invaders'  cattle,  burned 
wagons,  grass,  ana  provisions,  offered  to  lasso  the  guns,  and,  when 
they  had  taken  a  prisoner,  drank  with  him  and  let  him  go — how 
Governor  Gumming,  after  his  entry,  at  once  certified  the  untruth- 
fulness of  the  scandal  spread  by  Judge  Druramond,  especially  that 
touching  the  library  and  archives,  and  reported  that  no  federal 
oflloer  had  ever  been  killed  or  even  assaulted  by  the  Saints — how 
the  effects  of  these  misrepresentations  have  been  and  still  are  se- 
rious. In  1857,  for  instance,  the  mail  was  cut  off,  and  a  largo 
commercial  community  was  left  without  postal  communication 
for  a  whole  year :  the  ostensible  reason  was  the  troubled  state  of 
the  Territory ;  the  real  cause  wi.  the  desire  of  the  Post-office  De- 
partment to  keep  the  advance  ol  the  troops  dark.    The  Mormons 

•  On  tho  r.th  of  April,  IfiCO,  tlio  Chntnlior  of  Rcprcwntntivcn  ntWiwliington  pnim- 
ctl  a  projected  law  to  rcprcHH  |K)l_vi!!imy  by  n  ninjority  of  140  to  CO.  Fortiiniitoly,  tho 
CommittKO  of  tho  Sonuto  hnu  no  tiiiio  to  report  U])on  it,  nnd  tho  rIovu  Uiicutsiuu  lu- 
sUmcu  uimcnsiosB  which  haricd  MuriQUBisoi  in  coinpkic  oblitioa. 


h¥^ 


i,       i\ 


422 


THE  CITY  OF  TILE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


complain  that  they  have  ever  been  made  a  subject  of  political 
capital.  President  Van  Buren  openly  confessed  to  them,  "Gen- 
tlemen, your  cause  is  just,  but  I  can  do  nothing  for  you ;  if  I  took 
your  part  I  should  lose  the  vote  of  Missouri."  Every  grievance 
against  them,  they  say,  is  listened  to  and  readily  believed :  as  an 
example,  a  Mr.  Jol>n  Robinson,  of  Liverpool,  had  lately  represent- 
ed to  her  Britannic  majesty's  Secretary  for  Foreign  Affairs  that 
his  mother  and  sister  were  detained  in  Utah  Territory  against 
their  will ;  the  usual  steps  were  taken ;  the  British  minister  ap- 
plied to  the  United  States  Secretary  of  State,  who  referred  the  af- 
fair to  the  governor  of  the  Territory ;  after  which  process  the  tale 
turned  out  a  mere  canard.  This  sister  had  been  married  to  Mr. 
Ferguson,  adjutant  general  of  the  Nauvoo  Legion;  the  mother 
had  left  the  City  of  the  Saints  for  Illinois,  and  had  just  written  to 
her  son-in-law  for  means  by  which  she  could  return  to  a  place 
whence  she  was  to  be  rescued  by  British  interference.  To  a  false 
prejudice  against  themselves  the  Mormons  attribute  the  neglect 
with  which  their  project  of  colonizing  Vancouver's  Island  was 
treated  by  the  British  government,  and  the  active  opposition  to 
be  expected  should  they  ever  attempt  to  settle  in  the  Valley  of 
,tlic  Saskatchewan.  And  they  think  it  poor  policy  on  the  part  of 
England  to  "blulf  oft'"  100,000  moral,  industrious,  and  obedient 
subjects,  who  would  be  a  bulwark  against  aggression  on  tlie  part 
of  the  States,  and  tend  materially  to  prejiare  the  thousand  miles 
of  valley  between  the  Mississipjii  and  the  Pacific  for  the  coming 
railway. 

At  the  office  I  also  obtained  details  concerning  education  in 
Great  Salt  Lake  City.  Before  commencing  the  subject  it  will  bo 
necessary  to  notice  certain  statements  relating  to  the  ingenuous 
youth  of  Utah  Territory.  It  is  generally  f  sserted  that  juvenile 
mortality  here  ranks  second  only  to  Tiouisiana,  and  the  fault  is,  of 
course,  charged  upon  polygamy,  A  French  author  talks  of  the 
viortalite  rfframnd'-  amf)ng  the  newly-born,  while  owning,  anoma- 
lously, that  the  survivors  sont  brara  ct  rohti-'itcs.  I  "doubt  the 
fact.'*  Mr.  Ferris,  moreover,  declares  that  there  is  "  nowhere  out 
of  the  Fivo  I*oints  of  New  York  City  a  more  filthy,  miserable, 
and  disorderly  rabble  f)f  (children  than  can  bo  found  In  the  streets 
of  Great  Salt  Lake  City."  As  far  as  my  experience  goes,  it  is 
the  reverse.  I  wa.s  surprised  by  their  numbers,  cleanliness,  and 
health,  their  hardihood  and  general  good  looks.  They  are  bold 
and  spirited.  The  Mormon  father,  like  the  Indian  bravo,  will  not 
allow  the  barbarous  use  of  the  stick;  but  this  is  perhajis  a  genor- 
nl  feeling  tiiroughout  the  States,  where  the  English  traveler  first 
observes  the  docility  of  the  horses  and  the  indoeility  of  the  cliil- 
drcn.  But,  as  regards  rudeness,  let  a  man  "with  wliiskcrs  under 
his  snout,"  i.  c,  mustaches,  ride  through  a  village  in  Essex  or 
Warwiekshiro,  and  ho  will  sufTer  more  eontumely  at  t\w  hands 
of  tbo  infant  po])ulaliou  in  half  an  hour  than  in  half  a  year  in  the 


Chap.  X. 


CHILDREN  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


423 


United  States  or  in  Utah.  M.  Remy,  despite  a  "  vif  desir''^  to 
judge  favorably  of  the  Saints,  could  not  help  owning  that  the 
children  are  mostly  grossiers,  menteurs,  lihertins  avant  Vdge ;  that 
they  use  un  langage  honteux,  comme  si  les  viysieres  de  la  pohjqamie 
lew  avaicnt  ete  reveles  dcs  Vdge  de  raison.  Apparently  since  1855 
celte  corruption  precoce  has  disappeared.  I  found  less  premature 
depravity  than  in  the  children  of  European  cities  generally.  Mr. 
J.  Hyde  also  brings  against  the  juvenile  Saints  severe  charges, 
too  general,  however,  not  to  be  applicable  to  other  lands.  "  Cheat- 
ing the  confiding  is  called  smart  trading;"  the  same  has  been  said 
of  New  England.  "Mischievous  cruelty,  evidences  of  spirit;"  the 
attribute  of  Plato's  boys  and  of  the  Western  frontiers  generally. 
"Pompous  bravado,  manly  talk;"  not  unusual  in  New  York, 
London,  and  Paris.  "  Reckless  riding,  fearless  courage ;"  so  ap- 
parently thinks  the  author  of  "  Guy  Livingstone."  "  And  if  they 
outtalk  their  fathers,  outwit  their  companions,  whip  their  school- 
teacher, outcurso  a  Gentile,  they  arc  thought  to  be  promising 
greatness,  and  arc  praised  accordingly.  Every  visitor  to  Salt 
Lake  will  recognize  the  portrait,  for  every  visitor  proclaims  them 
to  bo  the  most  whisky-loving,  tobacco-chewing,  saucy,  and  preco- 
cious children  he  ever  saw."  This  is  the  glance  of  the  anti-Mor- 
mon eye  pure  and  simple.  Tobacco  and  v/hisky  arc  too  dear  for 
childhoou  at  the  City  of  the  Saints ;  moreover,  twenty  years  ago, 
before  Tom  Brown  taught  boys  not  to  be  ashamed  of  being  called 
good,  a  youth  at  many  an  English  public  school  would  have  been 
"  cock  of  the  walk"  if  gifted  with  the  rare  merits  described  above. 
I  remarked  that  the  juveniles  had  all  the  promptness  of  reply  and 
the  percmptorincss  of  information  which  characterizes  the  Scotch 
and  the  people  of  the  Eastern  States.  A  half-educated  man  can 
not  afford  to  own  ignorance.  He  must  answer  categorically  every 
question,  however  beyond  his  reach ;  and  the  result  is  fatal  to  the 
diaries  of  those  travelers  who  can  not  diagnostizo  the  disease. 

Mormon  education  is  of  course  i)eculiar.  The  climate  predis- 
poses to  indolence.  While  the  emigrants  from  the  Old  Country 
are  the  most  energetic  and  hard-working  of  men,  their  cliildrcn, 
like  the  race  of  backwoodsmen  in  mass,  are  averse  to  any  but 
pleasurable  physical  exertion.  The  object  of  the  young  colony  is 
to  rear  a  swarm  of  licalthy  working  bees.  The  social  hive  has  as 
yet  no  room  for  drones,  book-worms,  and  gertlcmen.  The  work 
13  proportioned  to  their  powers  and  inclinations.  At  fifteen  a  boy 
can  use  a  whip,  an  axe,  or  a  hoe — ho  does  not  like  tlie  jilow — to 
perfection.  I  to  sits  a  bare-baokcd  horse  like  a  Centaur,  hanuics 
liis  bowie-knife  skillfully,  never  misses  a  mark  with  liis  revolver, 
and  can  ])robably  disjioso  of  lialf  a  bottle  of  whisky.  It  is  not  an 
education  which  I  would  commend  to  the  generous  youth  of  IVris 
and  London,  but  it  is  admirably  fitted  to  tlie  exigencies  of  the  sit- 
uation. With  regard  to  book-worlc,  thoro  is  no  difficulty  to  ob- 
tain iu  Great  Suit  Luko  City  that  "mediocrity  of  knowledge  be- 


WW-  I 


n: 


I  '  ?  '::i\ 


424 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


I 


tween  learning  and  ignorance"  whicli  distinguished  the  grammar- 
schools  of  the  Western  Islands  in  the  days  of  Samuel  Johnson. 
Amid  such  a  concourse  of  European  converts,  any  language,  from 
Hebrew  to  Portuguese,  can  be  learned.    Mathematics  and  the  ex- 
act sciences  have  their  votaries.    There  are  graduates  of  Harvard, 
Dartmouth,  and  other  colleges.     I  saw  one  gentleman  who  had 
kept  a  school  in  Portsmouth,  and  another,  who  had  had  a  large 
academy  in  Shropshire,  taught  in  the  school  of  the  14th  ward. 
Music,  dancing,  drawing,  and  other  artlets,  which  go  by  the  name 
of  accomplishments,  have  many  votaries.    Indefatigable  travelers 
there  are  in  abundance.     Almost  every  Mormon  is  a  missionary, 
and  every  missionary  is  a  voj^ager.    Captain  Gibson,  a  well-known 
name  for  "  personal  initiative"  in  the  Eastern  Main,  where  he  was 
seized  by  the  Dutch  of  Java,  lately  became  a  convert  to  Mormon- 
ism,  married  his  daughter  to  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  and  in  sundry 
lectures  delivered  in  the  Tabernacle,  advised  the  establishment  of 
a  stake  of  Zion  in  the  "  Islands  of  the  Seas,"  which  signified,  I 
suppose,  his  intention  that  the  Netherlands  should  "smell  H — 11." 
Law  is  commonly  studied,  and  the  practice,  as  I  have  shown,  is 
much  simplified  by  the  absence  of  justice.    A  solicitor  from  Lon- 
don is  also  established  here.     Theology  is  the  growth  of  the  soil. 
Medicine  is  represented  by  two  graduates — one  of  Maryland ;  the 
other,  who  prefers  politics  to  joractice,  of  New  York.    I  am  at 
pains  to  discover  what  gave  rise  to  the  Gentile  reports  that  the 
Mormons,  having  a  veritable  horror  of  medicine,  leave  curing  to 
the  priests,  and  dare  not  arrogate  the  art  of  healing.    Masterships 
and  apprcnticeshii)s  arc  carefully  regulated  by  Territorial  law. 
Every  one  learns  to  read  and  write :  probably  the  only  destitutes 
are  the  old  European  pariahs,  and  the  gleanings  from  the  five  or 
six  millions  uf  English  illiterati.    The  Mormons  have  discovered 
or,  rather,  have  been  taught,  by  their  necessities  as  a  working 
population  in  a  state  barely  twelve  years  old,  that  the  time  of 
school  drudgery  may  profitably  bo  abridged.     A  boy,  they  say, 
will  learn  all  that  his  memory  can  carry  during  throe;  hours  of 
book-work,  and  the  rest  had  far  better  be  spent  in  air,  exercise, 
and  handicraft.     To  their  eminently  practical  views  I  would  of- 
fer one  suggestion,  the  advisability  of  making  military  drill  and 
extension  movements,  with  and  without  weapons,  a  part  of  scIkjI- 
arhood.     Fin-  "setting  up"  the  figure,  ibrming  the  gait,  and  exer- 
cising the  muscles,  it  is  the  best  of  gymnastic  systeniM,  antl  the 
early  habit  of  acting  in  concert  with  othci-s  is  a  long  stride  in  the 
path  of  soldiership. 

While  it  is  the  fashion  with  some  to  deride  the  attempts  of  lliis 
painstaking  and  industrious  community  of  hard-handed  men  to 
miprovc  their  minds,  other  anti-Mormons  have  taken  the  popiilar 
ground  of  representing  the  Saints  as  averse  to  intellectual  activ- 
ity, despi.scrs  of  science,  resneeters  only  of  manual  labor,  and  ".v/Vi- 
rjuliilrement  rpria  dc  la  force  hrutak."    It  is  ns  ungenerous  as  to  rid- 


Chap.  X. 


MORMON  EDUCATION. 


425 


icule  the  proceedings  of  an  English  Mechanics'  Institute  or  the 
compositions  of  an  "  Ed.  Mechanics'  Magazine."  The  names  of 
their  liierary  institutions  are,  it  is  true,  somewhat  pretentious  and 
grandiloquent;  but  in  these  lands  there  is  every  where  a  leaning 
toward  the  grandiose.  Humility  does  not  pay.  Modesty  lauda- 
tur  et  alget.  "^ 

As  early  as  December,  1854,  an  act  was  approved  enabling  the 
Chancellor  and  Board  of  Eegents  of  the  University  of  the  State 
of  Deserdt  to  appoint  a  superintendent  of  common  schools  for  the 
Territory  of  Utah,  and  duly  qualified  trustees  were  elected  to  as- 
sess and  collect  for  educational  purposes  a  tax  upon  all  taxable 
property.  In  the  same  year  a  pathetic  memorial  was  dispatched 
to  Congress,  requesting  that  honorable  body  to  appropriuio  the 
sum  of  $5000  to  advance  the  interests  of  the  University  estab- 
lished by  law  in  the  City  of  Great  Salt  Lake.  I  know  not  wheth- 
er  It  was  granted.  As  yet  there  is  no  educational  tax  leviable 
throughout  the  Territory.  Each  district  makes  its  own  regula- 
tions. A  city  rate  supports  a  school  in  tach  ward.  The  build- 
ings are  of  plain  adobe,  thirty  feet  by  twenty.  They  also  serve 
as  meeting-places  on  Sabbath  evenings  There  are  tutoresses  in 
three  or  four  of  the  school-houses,  who  teach  all  the  year  round 
whereas  male  education  is  usually  limited  by  necessity  to  the  three 
winter  months.  A  certain  difficulty  exists  in  finding  instructors. 
As  in  iVustralia,  the  pedagogue  is  cheaper  than  a  porter,  and 
"turning  schoolmaster"  is  a  proverbial  phrase  about  equivalent 
to  coming  upon  the  parish. 

The  principal  educational  institutions  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City 
have  been  the  following: 

1.  The  Dcscret  Universal  Scientific. 

2.  The  "  Polysophical  Society,"  a  name  given  by  Judge  Phelps. 
8.  The  Seventies'  Variety  Club.  ^ 

4.  The  Council  of  Ucalth,  a  medico-physiologio-clinical  and  ma- 
tronly establishment,  like  the  Dorcas  Societies  of  the  Eastern 
States. 

5.  The  Dcscret  Theological  Institution,  whoso  President  was 
Mr.  Brigham  Young. 

6.  The  Dcscret  Library  and  INIusical  Society. 

7.  The  Phrenological  and  Horticultural  Society. 

8.  The  Dcscret  Agricultural  and  Manufacturing  Society,  which 
has  already  been  alluded  to.  It  has  many  branch  societies,  whoso 
niombors  pay  an  annual  subscription  of  .$1. 

i).  The  Academy  founded  in  April,  1800,  with  an  appropria- 
tbn  by  tlio  local  Legislature  of  Church  money  to  the  extent  of 
$2500.  Science  and  art  arc  to  be  taught  gratis  to  all  who  will 
pledge  thomsolvcs  to  learn  thoroughly  and  to  benefit  the  Tern- 
tory  by  their  exertions.  The  superintendent  is  Mr.  Orson  Prurt ; 
and  hi.s  son,  Mr.  0.  Pratt,  junior,  together  with  ^fr.  Cobb,  a  Gen- 
tile, nctH  ua  teacher.     At  present  those  educated  are  males :  in 


m 


426 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


course  of  time  a  girl  class  will  be  establislied  for  accomplishments 
and  practical  education. 

The  Historian's  Office  was  ever  to  me  a  place  of  pleasant  re- 
sort ;  I  take  my  leave  of  it  with  many  expressions  of  gratitude 
for  the  instructive  hours  passed  there. 

It  will,  I  suppose,  be  necessary  to  supply  a  popular  view  of  the 
"  peculiar  institution,"  at  once  the  bane  and  blessing  of  Morraon- 
ism— plurality.  I  approach  the  subject  with  a  feeling  of  despair, 
so  conflicting  are  opinions  concerning  it,  and  so  difficult  is  it  to 
naturaUze  in  Europe  the  customs  of  Asia,  Africa,  and  America, 
or  to  reconcile  the  habits  of  the  19th  century  A.D.  with  those  of 
1900  B.C.  A  return  to  the  patriarchal  ages,  wo  have  seen,  has 
its  disadvantages. 

There  is  a  prevailing  idea,  especially  in  England,  and  even  the 
educated  arc  laboring  under  it,  that  the  Mormons  are  Communists 
or  Socialists  of  Plato's,  Cicero's,  Mr.  Owen's,  and  M.Cabet's  school; 
that  wives  are  in  public,  and  that  a  woman  can  have  as  many 
husbands  as  the  husband  can  have  wives — in  fact,  to  speak  collo- 
quially, that  they  "  all  pig  together."  The  contrary  is  notably 
the  case.  The  man  who,  like  Messrs.  Hamilton  and  Howard 
Egan,  murders,  in  cold  blood,  his  wife's  lover,  is  invariably  ac- 
quni':;d,  the  jury  declaring  that  civil  damages  mark  the  rottenness 
of  other  governments,  and  that  "  the  principle,  the  only  one  that 
beats  and  throbs  through  the  heart  of  the  entire  i nhah Hants  {[)  of 
this  Territory,  is  simply  this:  The.  man  ivho  seduces  his  ncighbor''s 
wiff  vuLst  die,  and  her  nearest  relation  7nust  kill  him."  Men,  like 
Dr.  Vaughan  and  Mr.  Monroe,  slain  for  the  mortal  sin,  perish  for 
tlieir  salvation ;  the  Prophet,  were  they  to  lay  their  lives  at  his 
feet,  would,  because  unable  to  hang  or  behead  them,  counsel  them 
to  seek  certain  death  in  a  righteous  cause  as  an  expiatory  sacri- 
fice,* which  may  save  their  souls  alive.  Their  two  mortal  sins 
are :  1.  Adultery ;  2.  Shedding  innocent  blood. 

This  severity  of  punishing  an  offense  which  modern  and  civ- 
ilized society  looks  upon  rather  in  the  light  of  a  sin  than  of  a 
crime,  is  clearly  based  upon  the  Mosaic  ccxle.  It  is  also,  lex  loci, 
the  "common  mountain  law,"  a  "religious  and  social  custom," 
and  a  point  of  iiersonal  honor.  Another  idea  underlies  it:  the 
Mormons  hold,  like  the  Hebrews  of  old,  "children  of  shame"  in 
cxtriMue  dishonor.  They  quote  the  command  of  God,  Deuteron- 
omy (xxiii.,  2),  "  a  mamzer  shall  not  enter  into  the  Church  of  the 
Lord  till  the  tentli  g.-neration,*'  and  ask  when  the  order  was  re- 
pealed. They  would  expel  all  impurity  from  the  Camp  of  Zion, 
and  they  adopt  every  method  of  preventing  what  they  consider  a 
tremendous  evil,  viz.,  tho  violation  of  God's  tcmplo  in  their  own 
bodies. 


Tl 


•  'riio  form  ol  ilentii  lias  yi'i  to  do  ui'ciuou.  lu-v  ;  lU  this  a  scriptural  iirnciiw, 
.,  '•  tri  ilclivcr  sucli  R  Diic  iinlo  Siitiiii  (»r  tin'  ili'sf'i  ^.m  of  iliu  (lusli,  that  tlio  Hpirit 
IV  I)  •  «\vcJ  ill  tlio  day  of  iliu  Lord  Ji'siis  Cliiis,  '  r  I  Cor.,  v.,  6). 


Chap.  X.        THE  WIFE.— DIVORCE.— THE  VIRGIN'S  END.  427 

The  marriage  ceremony  is  performed  in  the  temple,  or,  that  be- 
ing impossible,  in  Mr.  Brigham  Young's  office,  properly  speaking 
by  the  Prophet,  who  can,  however,  depute  any  follower,  as  Mr. 
Heber  C.  Kimball,  a  simple  apostle,  or  even  an  elder,  to  act  for  him! 
When  mutual  consent  is  given,  the  parties  are  pronounced  man 
and  wife  in  the  name  of  Jesus  Christ,  prayers  follow,  and  there  is 
a  patriarchal  feast  of  joy  in  the  evening. 

The  first  wife,  as  among  polygamists  generally,  is  the  wife,  and 
assumes  the  husband's  name  and  title.  Her  "  plurality"-partners 
are  called  sisters— such  as  Sister  Anne  or  Sister  Blanche— and 
are  the  aunts  of  her  children.  The  first  wife  is  married  for  time, 
the  others  are  sealed  for  eternity.  Hence,  according  to  the  Mor- 
mons, arose  the  Gentile  calumny  concerning  spiritual  wifedom, 
which  they  distinctly  deny.  Girls  rarely  remain  single  past  six- 
teen—in England  the  average  marrying  age  is  thirty— and  they 
would  be  the  pity  of  the  community  if  they  were  doomed  to  a 
waste  of  youth  so  unnatural. 

Divorce  is  rarely  obtained  by  the  man  who  is  ashamed  to  own 
that  he  can  not  keep  his  house  in  order ;  some,  such  as  the  Pres- 
ident, would  grant  it  only  in  case  of  adultery :  wives,  however, 
are  allowed  to  claim  it  for  cruelty,  desertion,  or  neglect.  Of  late 
years.  Mormon  women  married  to  Gentiles  are  cut  off  from  ihe 
society  of  the  Saints,  and,  without  uncharitableness,  men  suspect 
a  sound  previous  reason.  The  widows  of  the  Prophet  are  mar- 
ried to  bis  successor,  as  David  took  unto  himself  the  wives  of 
Saul ;  being  generally  aged,  they  occupy  the  position  of  matron 
rather  than  wife,  and  the  same  is  the  case  when  a  man  espouses  a 
mother  and  her  daughter. 

It  is  needless  to  remark  how  important  a  part  matrimony  plays 
in  the  history  of  an  individual,  and  of  that  aggregate  of  individu- 
als, a  people ;  or  how  various  and  conflicting  has  been  Christian 
practice  concerning  it,  from  the  double  marriage,  civil  and  relig- 
ious, the  former  temporary,  the  latter  permanent,  of  the  Coptic  or 
Abyssinian  Church,  to  the  exaggerated  purity  of  Mistress  Anna 
Lee,  the  motlier  of  the  Shakers,  who  exacted  complete  continence 
in  a  state  established  according  to  the  first  commandment,  crcscile 
et  multipUcamini.  The  literalism  witli  which  the  Mormons  have 
interpreted  Scripture  has  led  them  directly  to  polygamy.  The 
texts  promising  to  Abraham  a  progeny  numerous  as  the  stars 
above  or  the  sands  below,  and  that  "  in  his  seed  (a  polygamist)  all 
the  families  of  the  earth  shall  be  blessed,"  induce  them,  liis  de- 
scendants, to  seek  a  similar  blessing.  The  theory  announcing  that 
"the  man  is  not  without  the  woman,  nor  the  woman  without  the 
man,"  is  by  tliem  interpreted  into  an  absolute  command  that  both 
sexes  should  marry,  and  that  a  woman  can  not  enter  the  heavenly 
kingdom  without  a  husband  to  introduce  her.  A  virgin's  end  is 
annihilation  or  absorption,  nox  est  perpdua  una  dormknda;  and 
as  baptism  for  tlie  dead — an  old  rite,  revived  and  founded  upon 


If* 


428 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


the  writings  of  St.  Paul  quoted  in  the  last  chapter — ^has  been  made 
a  part  of  practice,  vicarious  marriage  for  the  departed  also  enters 
into  the  Mormon  scheme.  Like  certain  British  Dissenters  of  the 
royal  burgh  of  Dundee,  who  in  our  day  petitioned  Parliament  for 
permission  to  bigamize,  the  Mormons,  with  Bossuet  and  others, 
see  in  the  New  Testament  no  order  against  plurality,*  and  in  the 
Old  dispensation  they  find  the  practice  sanctioned  in  a  family, 
ever  the  friends  of  God,  and  out  of  which  the  Kedeemer  sprang. 
Finally,  they  find  throughout  the  nations  of  the  earth  three  po- 
lygamists  in  theory  to  one  monogame. 

The  "chaste  and  plural  marriage,"  being  once  legalized,  finds  a 
multitude  of  supporters.  The  anti- Mormons  declare  that  it  is  at 
once  fornication  and  adultery  —  a  sin  which  absorbs  all  others. 
The  Mormons  point  triumphantly  to  the  austere  morals  of  their 
community,  their  superior  freedom  from  maladive  influences,  and 
the  absence  of  that  uncleanness  and  licentiousness  which  distin- 
guish the  cities  of  the  civilized  world.  They  boast  that,  if  it  be 
an  evil,  they  have  at  least  chosen  the  lesser  evil ;  that  they  prac- 
tice openly  as  a  virtue  what  others  do  secretly  as  a  sin — how  full 
is  society  of  these  latent  Mormons ! — that  their  plurality  has  abol- 
ished the  necessity  of  concubinage,  cryptogamy,  contubernium, 
celibacy,  manages  du  treizihne  arrondissement,  with  their  terrible 
consequences,  infanticide,  and  so  forth ;  that  they  have  removed 
their  ways  from  those  "whose  end  is  bitter  as  wormwood,  and 
sharp  as  a  two-edged  sword."  Like  its  sister  institution  Slavery, 
the  birth  and  growth  of  a  similar  age,  Polygamy  acquires  van  by 
abuse  and  detraction :  the  more  turpitude  is  heaped  upon  it,  the 
brighter  and  more  glorious  it  appears  to  its  votaries. 

There  are  rules  and  regulations  of  Mormonism — I  can  not  say 
whether  they  date  before  or  after  the  heavenly  command  to  plu- 
ralize — which  disprove  the  popular  statement  that  such  marriages 
ure  made  to  gratify  licentiousness,  and  which  render  polygamy  a 
positive  necessity.  All  sensuality  in  the  married  state  is  strictly 
forbidden  beyond  the  requisite  for  insuring  progeny — the  prac- 
tice, in  fact,  of  Adam  and  Abraham.  During  the  gestation  and 
nursing  of  children,  the  strictest  continence  on  the  part  of  the 
mother  is  required — rather  for  a  hygienic  than  for  a  religious  rea- 
son. The  same  custom  is  practiced  in  part  by  the  Jews,  and  in 
whole  by  some  of  the  noblest  tribes  of  savages ;  the  splendid 
physical  development  of  the  Kaffir  race  in  South  Africa  is  attrib- 

*  Ilistoiro  dcs  Variations,  liv.  iv.  "  L'EvntiRilo  n'n  ni  rt'voqm'  ni  (k'fcnclii  cc  qui 
avnit  e'lu  jKjrmis  iliins  la  loi  do  Moiso  ii  IVgard  dii  marinfjc :  Jesus  (Jlirist  n'a  jms 
changtf  In  police  extdrieurts  iiiiiiH  il  a  njoutd  seulcniPtit  In  justice  et  In  vie  etcrncllo 
pour  rei'(jn)|ien8C."  So,  in  ir>;J!>,  the  LandKravo  Philip  of  llcsso,  wishing  to  ninny 
a  second  wife  while  the  first  wns  alive,  was  iKTniittcd  to  "commit  liiKniny"  hy  the 
eminent  reformers,  M.  Luther,  Kuhom  (M.  Uiicor),  ^^clrtncfh()n,  and  others,  with  the 
sole  condition  of  secrecy.  In  the  present  npe,  the  Hipht  Ucv.  J.  W.  Coicnso,  D.l). 
and  IJishoi)  of  Natal,  "not  only  tolerates  polygamy  in  convert).,  but  defends  it  on 
the  ground  «f  rdigiun  aud  humanity." 


Chap.  X. 


POLYGAMY. 


429 


uted  by  sorae  authors  to  a  rule  of  continence  like  that  of  the  Mor- 
mons, and  to  a  lactation  prolonged  for  two  years.  The  anomaly 
of  such  a  practice  in  the  midst  of  civilization  is  worthy  of  a  place 
in  De  Balzac's  great  repertory  of  morbid  anatomy :  it  is  only  to  be 
equaled  by  the  exceptional  nature  of  the  Mormon's  position,  his 
past  fate  and  his  future  prospects.  Spartan-like,  the  Faith  wants 
a  race  of  warriors,  and  it  adopts  the  best  means  to  obtain  them. 

Besides  religious  and  physiological,  there  are  social  motives  for 
the  plurality.  As  in  the  days  of  Abraham,  the  lands  about  New 
Jordan  are  broad  and  the  people  few.  Of  the  three  forms  that 
unite  the  sexes,  polygamy  increases,  while  monogamy  balances, 
and  polyandry  diminishes  progeny.  The  former,  as  Montesquieu 
acutely  suggested,  acts  inversely  to  the  latter  by  causing  a  pre- 
ponderance of  female  over  male  births :  "  Un  fait  important  k 
noter,"  says  M.  Eemy,  "c'est  qu'il  y  a  en  Utah  beaucoup  plus  de 
naissances  de  fiUes  que  de  gar9ons,  resultat  oppos^  a  ce  qu'on  ob- 
serve dans  tous  les  pays  o^  la  monogamie  est  pratiquee,  et  par- 
faitement  conforme  a  ce  qu'on  a  remarque  chez  les  polygames 
Mussulmans."  M.  Eemy's  statement  is  as  distinctly  afl&rmed  by 
Mr.  Hyde,  the  Mormon  apostate.  In  the  East,  where  the  census 
is  unknown,  we  can  judge  of  the  relative  proportions  of  the  sexes 
only  by  the  families  of  the  great  and  wealthy,  who  invariably 
practice  polygamy,  and  we  find  the  number  of  daughters  mostly 
superior  to  that  of  sons,  except  where  female  infanticide  deludes 
the  public  into  judging  otherwise.  In  lands  where  polyandry  is 
the  rule,  for  instance,  in  the  Junsar  and  Bawur  pergunnahs  of  the 
Dhun,  there  is  a  striking  discrepancy  in  the  proportions  of  the 
sexes  among  young  children  as  well  as  adults :  thus,  in  a  village 
where  400  boys  are  found,  there  will  be  120  girls ;  and,  on  the 
other  hand,  in  the  Gurhwal  Hills,  where  polygamy  is  prevalent, 
there  is  a  surplus  of  female  children.  The  experienced  East  In- 
dian official  who  has  published  this  statement*  is  "inclined  to 
give  more  weight  to  nature's  adaptability  to  national  habit  than 
to  the  possibility  of  infanticide,"  for  which  there  are  no  reasons. 
If  these  be  facts.  Nature  then  has  made  provision  for  polygamy 
and  polyandry :  our  plastic  mother  has  prepared  her  cnildren  to 
practice  them  all.  Even  in  Scotland  modern  statists  have  ob- 
served that  the  proportion  of  boys  born  to  girls  is  greater  in  tbe 
rural  districts ;  and,  attributing  the  phenomenon  to  the  physical 
weakening  of  the  parents,  have  considered  it  a  rule  so  established 
as  to  "  ifford  a  valuable  hint  to  those  who  desire  male  progeny." 
The  anti-Mormons  are  fond  of  quoting  Paley :  "  It  is  not  the  ques- 
tion whether  one  man  will  have  more  chilcfren  by  five  wives,  but 
whether  these  five  women  would  not  have  had  more  children  if 
they  had  each  a  husband."  The  Mormons  reply  that  —  setting 
aside  the  altered  rule  of  production — their  colony,  unlike  all  oth- 

♦  IIuntiiiK  in  the  Ilinmlaya,  by  U.  II.  W.  Dunlop,  C.B.,  B.C.S.,  F.R.G.S.,  Lon- 
don, liiclmrd  Bcntloy,  IbOO. 


I  "til 


430 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


ers,  numbers  more  female  than  male  immigrants ;  consequently 
that,  without  polygamy,  part  of  the  social  field  would  remain  un- 
tiUed.* 

To  the  unprejudiced  traveler  it  appears  that  polygamy  is  the 
rule  where  pop'lation  is  required,  and  where  the  great  social  evil 
has  not  ,>:.A  uaic  !(•  develop  itself.  In  Paris  or  London  the  insti- 
tutioji  would,  iiko  slavery,  die  a  natural  death ;  in  Arabia  and  in 
the  wilds  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  it  maintains  a  strong  hold  upon 
the  afiections  of  mankind.  Monogamy  is  best  fitted  for  the  large, 
wealthy,  and  flourishing  communities  in  which  man  is  rarely  the 
happier  because  his  quiver  is  full  of  children,  and  where  the  He- 
tajra  becomes  the  succedaneum  of  the  "  plurality -wife."  Polyan- 
dry has  been  practiced  pi'inc!^;tlly  by  priestly  and  barbarous 
tribes,t  who  fear  most  for  the  mcreasc  of  their  numbers,  which 
would  end  by  driving  them  to  honest  industry.  It  reappears  in 
a  remarkable  manner  in  the  highest  state  of  social  civilization, 
where  excessive  expenditure  is  an  obstacle  to  freehold  property, 
and  the  practice  is  probably  on  the  increase. 

The  other  motive  for  polygamy  in  Utah  is  economy.  Servants 
are  rare  and  costly ;  it  is  cheaper  and  more  comfortable  to  marry, 
them.  Many  converts  are  attracted  by  the  prospect  of  becoming 
wives,  especially  from  places  where,  like  Clifton,  there  are  sixtv- 
four  females  to  thirty-six  males.  The  old  maid  is,  as  she  ought 
to  be,  an  unknown  entity.  Life  in  the  wilds  of  Western  America 
is  a  course  of  severe  toll :  a  single  woman  can  not  perform  the 
manifold  duties  of  housekeeping,  cooking,  scrubbing,  washing, 
darning,  child-bearing,  and  nursing  a  family.  A  division  of  labor 
is  necessary,  and  she  finds  it  by  acquiring  a  sisterhood.  Through- 
out the  States,  whenever  a  woman  is  seen  at  manual  or  outdoor 
work,  one  is  certain  that  she  is  Irish,  German,  or  Scandinavian, 
The  delicacy  and  fragility  of  the  Anglo-American  female  nature 
is  at  once  the  cause  and  the  effect  of  this  exemption  from  toil. 

The  moral  influence  diffused  over  social  relations  by  the  pres- 
ence of  polygyny  will  be  intelligible  only  to  those  who  have  stud- 
ied the  workings  of  the  system  in  lands  where  seclusion  is  prac- 
ticed in  its  modified  form,  as  among  the  Syrian  Christians.    In 

•  I  am  8111-0  of  the  correctness  of  this  nssertion,  whicli  is  thus  denied  in  general 
terms  bv  M.  Rcclus,  of  the  Itevuc  des  1  icux  Mondes.  "  A  la  fin  do  1 858  on  conip- 
tait  sur  \o  TcTitoire  3017  maris  polvpnnies,  dont  1117  ayant  cinque  femraes  ou 
d'avantUL'c:  mnis  un  fjrand  nomhrc  de  Mormons  n'avaient  encore  putrouvcr 
d'eiiou^es  •  il  est  probuhle  memo  quo  Ic  chiffre  des  hommes  depasse  cclui  dcs  fcmmcs, 
conmic  dans  tons  les  pays  peuples  d'cmigrans.     L'equilibrc  entre  les  sexes  n  est  pas 

encore  etabli."  .      ■     t    i-        rri     c  „ 

t  The  Mahabharatn  thus  relates  the  oriKin  of  the  practice  in  India.  Ihc  hvo 
princely  I'andava  l)rothcrs,  when  contcndill^'  for  a  prize  offered  by  tlio  King  ot  IJro- 
na  to  the  most  succssful  archer,  agreed  to  divide  it  if  any  of  them  sliould  iiroyo  the 
winner.  Arjtin,  tlie  d.lcst,  was  declared  victor,  and  received  in  gitt  DrniipaUi,  the 
king's  daughter,  who  tlius  became  the  joint-stock  property  of  the  whole  trateriiity. 
Tlicv  lived  Vn  fhmilli'  fcr  some  vcars  at  tiie  foot  of  Hairath,  the  remains  of  wlncli,  or 
rather  a  Glioorka  structure  on  the  same  site,  are  still  visible  on  a.  hill  ucar  the  N.W. 
corner  of  the  Dhun.     dlunting  in  the  Himalaya,  chap,  vii.) 


Chap.  X. 


MORMON  WOMEN.— POLYGAMY. 


431 


America  society  splits  into  two  parts-man  and  woman-even 
more  readily  than  in  England;  each  sex  is  freer  and  happier  in 
the  company  of  its  congeners.  At  Great  Salt  Lake  City  ttere  is 
a  gloom  like  that  which  the  late  Professor  H.  H.  Wilson  iescribed 
as  being  cast  by  the  invading  Moslem  over  the  innocent  gavetv 
of  the  primitive  Hindoo.  The  choice  egotism  of  the  heart  called 
Love— that  is  to  say,  the  propensity  elevated  by  sentiment,  and 
not  undirected  by  reason,  subsides  into  a  calm  and  unimpassioned 
domestic  attachment:  romance  and  reverence  are  transferred  with 
the  true  Mormon  concentration,  from  love  and  liberty  to  religion 
and  the  Church  The  consent  of  the  first  wife  to  a  rival  is  sel- 
dom refused,  and  a  mmarje  d  trois,  in  the  Mormon  sense  of  the 
phrase,  IS  fatal  to  the  development  of  that  tender  tie  which  must 
be  confined  to  two.  In  its  stead  there  is  household  comfort  af- 
tection,  circumspect  friendship,  and  domestic  discipline.  Woman- 
hood IS  not  petted  and  spoiled  as  in  the  Eastern  States;  the  inev- 
itable cyclical  revolution,  indeed,  has  rather  placed  her  below  par 
where,  however  I  believe  her  to  be  happier  than  when  set  upon 
an  uncomfortable  and  unnatural  eminence. 

It  will  be  asked.  What  view  does  the  softer  sex  take  of  polvff- 
yny  ?  A  few,  most  y  from  the  Old  Country,  lament  that  I^Ir  Jo- 
seph Smith  ever  f^ked  of  the  Creator  that  question  which  was 
answered  in  the  affirmative.  A  very  few,  like  the  Curia  Electa, 
Emma,  the  first  wife  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith— who  said  of  her  bv- 
the-by,  that  she  could  not  bo  contented  in  heaven  without  rule- 
apostatize,  and  become  Mrs.  Bridemann.  The  many  are,  as  mi  crht 
be  expected  of  the  easily-moulded  weaker  vessel,  which  proves 
lis  inferior  position  by  the  delicate  flattery  of  imitation,  more  in 
favor  of  polygyny  than  the  stronger. 

For  the  attachment  of  the  women  of  the  Saints  to  the  doctrine 
of  plurality  there  arc  many  reasons.  The  Mormon  prophets  have 
expended  all  their  arts  upon  this  end,  well  knowing  that  without 
the  hearty  co-operation  of  mothers  and  wives,  sisters  and  daugh- 
ters, no  institution  can  live  long.  They  have  bribed  them  with 
promises  of  Paradise— they  have  subjugated  them  with  threats 
of  annihilation.  With  them,  once  a  Mormon  always  a  Mormon 
I  have  said  that  a  modified  reaction  respecting  the  community  of 
Saints  has  set  in  throughout  the  States ;  people  no  longer  wonder 
that  their  missionaries  do  not  show  horns  and  cloven  feet  and  the 
federal  officer,  the  itinerant  politician,  the  platform  orator,  and  the 
place-seeking  demagogue,  can  no  longer  make  political  capital  by 
bull  V . ug,  oppressing,  and  abusing  them.  The  tide  has  turned  and 
will  turn  yet  more.  But  the  individual  still  suffi^rs :  the  apostate 
Mornion  is  looked  upon  by  other  people  as  a  scamp  or  a  knave, 
and  the  woman  worse  than  a  prostitute.  Again,  all  the  fervor  of 
a  new  faith  burns  in  their  bosoms  with  a  heat  which  wc  can  little 
■^.ppreciato,  and  the  revelation  of  ^Ir.  Joseph  Smith  is  considered 
on  this  point  as  superior  to  the  Christian  as  the  latter  is  in  others 


pi:'!' 


432 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X 


to  the  Mosaic  Dispensation.  Polygamy  is  a  positive  command 
from  heaven:  if  the  flesh  is  mortified  by  it,  tant  mieux — "no  cross 
no  crown;"  "blessed  are  they  that  mourn."  I  have  heard  these 
■words  from  the  lips  of  a  well-educated  Mormon  woman,  who,  in 
the  presence  of  a  Gentile  sister,  urged  her  husband  to  take  unto 
himself  a  second  wife.  The  Mormon  household  has  been  de- 
scribed by  its  enemies  as  a  hell  of  envy,  hatred,  and  malice a 

den  of  murder  and  suicide.  The  same  has  been  said  of  the  Mos- 
lem harem.  Both,  I  believe,  suffer  from  the  assertions  of  preju- 
dice or  ignorance.  The  temper  of  the  New  is  so  far  superior  to 
that  of  the  Old  Country,  that,  incredible  as  the  statement  may 
appear,  rival  wives  do  dwell  together  in  amity,  and  do  quote  the 
proverb  "the  more  the  merrier."  Moreover,  they  look  with  hor- 
ror at  the  position  of  the  "  slavey"  of  a  pauper  mechanic  at  being 
required  to  "nigger  it"  upon  love  and  starvation,  and  at  the  ne- 
cessity of  a  numerous  family.  They  know  that  nine  tenths  of  the 
miseries  of  the  poor  in  large  cities  arise  from  early  and  imprudent 
marriages,  and  they  would  rather  be  the  fiftieth  "sealing"  of  Dives 
than  the  toilsome  single  wife  of  Lazarus.  The  French  saying  con- 
cerning motherhood— "?e  premier  emhcllit,  h  second  delridt,  le  troi- 
silme  gate  ioid,"  is  true  in  the  "Western  world.  The  first  child  is 
welcomed,  the  second  is  tolerated,  the  third  is  the  cause  of  tears 
and  reproaches,  and  the  fourth,  if  not  prevented  by  gold  pills  or 
some  smiilar  monstrosity,  causes  temper,  spleen,  and  melancholy, 
with  disgust  and  hatred  of  the  cause.  What  the  Napoleonic  abo- 
lition of  the  law  of  primogeniture,  combined  with  centralization 
of  the  peasant  class  m  towns  and  cities,  has  effected  on  this  side 
of  the  Channel,  the  terrors  of  maternity,  aggravated  by  a  highly 
nervous  temperament,  small  cerebellum,  constitutional  frigidity 
and  extreme  delicacy  of  fibre,  have  brought  to  pass  in  the  older 
parts  of  the  Union. 

Another  curious  effect  of  fervent  belief  may  be  noticed  in  the 
married  state.  When  a  man  has  four  or  five  wives,  with  reason- 
able families  by  each,  he  is  fixed  for  life :  his  interests,  if  not  his 
affections,  bind  him  irrevocably  to  his  new  faith.  But  the  bach- 
elor, as  well  as  the  monogamic  youth,  is  prone  to  backsliding. 
Apostasy  is  apparently  so  common  that  many  of  the  new  Saints 
form  a  mere  floating  population.  He  is  proved  by  a  mission  be- 
fore being  permitted  to  marry,  and  even  then  women,  dreading  a 
possible  renegade,  with  the  terrible  consequences  of  a  heavenless 
future  to  themselves,  are  shy  of  saying  yes.  Thus  it  happens 
that  male  celibacy  is  mixed  up  in  a  curious  way  with  polygamy 
and  that  also  in  a  foith  whose  mterpreter  advises  youth  not  to  re- 
main single  after  sixteen,  nor  girls  after  fourteen.  The  celibacy 
also  is  absolute ;  any  infraction  of  it  would  be  dangerous  to  life. 
Either,  then,  the  first  oropensity  of  the  phrenologist  is  poorly  de- 
veloped in  these  lands — this  has  been  positively  stated  of  the 
ruder  sex  in  California — or  its  action  is  to  be  regulated  by  habit 
to  a  greater  degree  than  is  usually  believed. 


Chap.  X. 


MRS.  PRATT'S  OPINION. 


433 


I  am  conscious  that  my  narrative  savors  of  incredibility ;  the 
fault  IS  in  the  subject  not  in  the  narrator.  Jmmeravi  animan 
meam.  The  best  proof  that  my  opinions  are  correct  will  be  the 
following  quotation.  It  is  a  letter  addressed  to  a  sister  in  New 
Hampshire  by  a  Mrs.  Belinda  M.  Pratt,  the  wife  of  the  celebrated 
apostle.  M.Kemy  has  apparently  dramatized  it  (vol.  ii  chan  ii  \ 
by  casting  it  into  dialogue  form,  and  placing  it  in  the  moutlh  of 
unefemme  distmguee.  Most  readers,  feminine  and  monogamic  will 
remark  that  the  lady  shows  little  heart  or  natural  affection  •'  the 
severe  calm  of  her  judgment  and  reasoning  faculties,  and  the 
soundness  of  her  physiology,  can  not  be  doubted. 

uT\         a  TT-        ,  "Great  Salt  Lake  City,  Jan.  12. 1864. 

"Dear  Sister,— Tour  letter  of  October  2  was  received  on  jester- 
day.  My  joy  on  its  reception  was  more  than  I  can  express.  I  had 
waited  so  long  for  your  answer  to  our  last,  that  I  had  almost  con- 
cluded my  friends  were  offended,  and  would  write  to  me  no  more 
Judge,then,  of  my  joy  when  I  read  the  sentiments  of  friendship  and 
ol  sisterly  aftection  expressed  in  your  letter. 

«  We  are  all  well  here,  and  are  prosperous  and  happy  in  our  fami- 
ly circle.    My  children,  four  in  number,  are  healthy  and  cheerful, 
and  fast  expanding  their  physical  and  intellectual  faculties.     Health 
peace,  and  prosperity  have  attended  us  all  the  day  lonf^  ' 

"It  seems, my  dear  sister, that  we  are  no  nearer  together  in  our 
religious  views  than  formerly.  Why  is  this  ?  Are  we  not  all  bound 
to  leave  this  world,  with  all  we  possess  therein,  and  reap  the  reward 
ot  our  doings  here  in  a  never-ending  hereafter  ?  If  so,  do  we  not  de- 
sire to  be  undeceived,  and  to  know  and  to  do  the  truth  ?  Do  we  not 
all  wish  in  our  very  hearts  to  be  sincere  with  ourselves,  and  to  be 
honest  and  frank  with  each  other  ? 

"If  so,  you  will  bear  with  me  patiently  while  I  give  a  few  of  mv 
reasons  for  embracing  and  holding  sacred  that  particular  pomt  in  the 
doctrine  of  the  Church  of  the  Saints  to  which  you,  my  dear  sister, 
together  with  a  large  majority  of  Christendom,  so  decidedly  object 
1  raean,  a  ^ plurality/ of  ioives.''  J      j    "■ 

"I  have  a  Bible  which  I  have  been  taught  from  my  infancy  to  hold 
sacred.  In  this  Bible  I  read  of  a  holy  man  named  Abraham,  who  is 
represented  as  the  friend  of  God,  a  faithful  man  in  all  things,  a  man 
who  kept  the  commandments  of  God,  and  who  is  called  in  the  New 
Testament '  the  father  of  the  faithful.'  See  James,  ii.,  23 ;  Rom.,  iv 
16;  Gal.,  111.,  8,  9,  16,29.  '      ' 

"I  find  this  man  had  a  plurality  of  wives,  some  of  which  were 
called  coucubmes.  See  Book  of  Genesis ;  and  for  his  concubines,  see 
XXV.,  6.  ' 

"  I  also  find  his  grandson  Jacob  possessed  of  four  wives,  twelve 
sons,  and  a  daughter.  These  wives  are  spoken  very  highly  of  by  the 
sacred  writers  as  honorable  and  virtuous  women,  'these '  sav  the 
Scriptures, '  did  build  the  house  oflsmeV 

"Jacob  himself  was  also  a  man  of  God,  and  the  Lord  blessed  him 
and  his  house,  and  commanded  him  to  be  fruitful  and  multiply  See 
Gen.,  XXX.  to  xxxv,,  and  particularly  xxxv.,  10, 1 1. 

E  E 


■  m 


»,i] 
•{,[' 
( 


I  " 


HiUHiiil 


434 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


"  I  find  also  that  the  twelve  sons  of  Jacob  by  these  four  wives  be- 
came princes,  heads  of  tribes,  patriarchs,  whose  names  are  had  in  ev- 
erlasting remembrance  to  all  generations. 

"  Now  God  talked  with  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob  frequently,  and 
his  angels  also  visited  and  talked  with  them,  and  blessed  them  and 
their  wives  and  children.  He  also  reproved  the  sins  of  some  of  the 
sons  of  Jacob  for  bating  and  selling  their  brother,  and  for  adultery. 
But  in  all  his  commimications  with  them  he  never  condemned  their 
family  organization,  but,  on  the  contrary,  always  approved  of  it,  and 
blessed  them  in  this  respect.  He  even  told  Abraham  that  he  would 
make  him  the  father  of  many  nations,  and  that  in  him  and  his  seed 
all  the  nations  and  kindreds  of  the  earth  should  be  blessed.  See 
Gen.,  xviii.,  17-19;  also  xii.,  1-3.  In  later  years  I  find  the  plurality 
of  wives  perpetuated,  sanctioned,  and  provided  for  in  the  law  of 
Moses. 

"  David  the  Psalmist  not  only  had  a  plurality  of  wives,  but  the 
Lord  himself  spoke  by  the  mouth  of  Nathan  the  prophet,  and  told 
David  that  he  (the  Lord)  had  given  his  master's  wives  into  his  bo- 
som ;  but  because  he  had  committed  adultery  with  the  wife  of  Uriah, 
and  had  caused  his  murder,  Ae  would  take  A  is  wives  and  give  them 
to  a  neighbor  of  his,  etc.     See  2  Sam.,  xii.,  7-11. 

"  Here,  then,  we  have  the  Word  of  the  Lord  not  only  sanctioning 
polygamy,  but  actually  giving  to  King  David  the  wives  of  his  master 
(Saul),  and  afterward  taking  the  wives  of  David  from  him,  and  giv- 
ing them  to  another  man.  Hero  we  have  a  sample  of  severe  reproof 
and  punishment  for  adultery  and  murder,  while  polygamy  is  author- 
ized and  approved  by  the  Word  of  God. 

"  But  to  come  to  the  New  Testament.  I  find  Jesus  Christ  speaks 
very  highly  of  Abraham  and  his  family.  He  say8,'J/«»y  shall  come 
from  the  east,  and  from  the  west,  and  from  the  north,  and  from  the 
south,  and  shall  sit  down  with  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob  in  the 
kingdom  of  God.*     Luke,  xiii.,  28,  29. 

"Again  he  said, '7/ y^'  iccre  Abrahani's  seed  ye  rcoulddo  the  works 
ofAbrahatn.* 

"  Paul  the  apostle  wrote  to  the  saints  of  his  day,  and  informed  them 
as  follows:  'As  many  of  you  as  have  been  baj)lizcd  into  Christ  havu 
|)ut  on  Clirist ;  and  if  ye  are  Christ's,  then  are  ye  Abraham's  seed, 
and  heirs  according  to  the  promise. 

''Ho  also  sets  forth  Abraham  nnd  Sarali  r.s  patterns  of  faith  and 
good  works,  and  as  the  fithcr  and  mother  of  faithful  Christians,  who 
should,  by  faith  and  good  works,  aspire  to  bo  counted  tho  sons  of 
.Vbrahani  and  daughters  of  Sarali, 

"Now  lot  us  look  at  some  of  tlio  works  of  Sarah,  for  which  ><ho  is 
so  highly  commended  by  the  apostles,  and  by  them  hold  up  as  a  i)at- 
tern  for  Christian  ladies  to  imitate.  ^Noir  Sartth,  Abram'n  wife, bare 
him  )io  children;  and  she  had  a  handmaid  an  /u/f/j  fian,  whoi>c 
name  was  Itayar,  And  Sarah  said  iinlo  Abram,  Jivhold  note,  the 
Lord  hath  restrained  me  from  bearitig :  1  pray  thee,  <jo  in  unto  my 
maid:  it  may  be  that  I  may  obtain  children  of  her.  And  Almtm 
hearkened  unto  the  t;oi<'e  of  Sarah.  And  Sarah,  Abram's  wife,  took 
Ilayar  htr  maid,  the  Ji'yyptian,  after  Abram  had  dwelt  ten  years  in 


Chap.  X. 


MRS.  PRATT'S  OPINION. 


485 


tfm  land  of  Canaan,  and  gave  her  to  her  husband  Abram  to  be  his 
wife.'    See  Gen.,  xvi.,  1-3. 

"According  to  Jesus  Christ  and  the  apostles,  then,  the  only  way 
to  be  sayed  is  to  be  adopted  into  the  great  family  of  polygamists  by 
the  Gospel,  and  then  strictly  follow  their  examples. 

"Again,  John  the  Revelator  describes  the  Holy  City  of  the  heav 
only  Jerusalem,  with  the  names  of  the  twelve  sons  of  Jacob  inscribed 
on  the  gates.    Rev.,  xxi.,  12. 

"To  sura  up  the  whole,  then,  I  find  that  polygamists  were  the 
triends  of  God;  that  the  family  and  lineage  of  a  polygamist  were  se- 
lected in  which  all  nations  should  be  blessed ;  that  a  polygamist  is 
named  in  the  New  Testament  as  the  father  of  the  faithful  Christians 
of  alter  ages,  and  cited  as  a  pattern  for  all  generations ;  that  the  wife 
ot  a  polygamist,  who  encouraged  her  husband  in  the  practice  of  the 
same,  and  even  urged  him  into  it,  and  officiated  in  giving  him  anoth- 
er wite,  is  named  as  an  honorable  and  virtuous  woman,  a  pattern  for 
Christum  ladies,  and  the  very  mother  of  all  holy  women  in  the  Chris- 
tian Church,  whose  aspiration  it  should  bo  to  be  (ailed  her  daugh- 
ters ;  that  Jesus  Christ  has  declared  that  the  great  fathers  of  the 
polygamic  family  stand  at  the  head  in  the  kingdom  of  good:  in 
short,  that  all  the  saved  of  after  generations  should  be  saved  by  be- 
coming members  of  a  polygamic  family ;  that  all  those  who  do  not 
become  members  of  it  are  strangers  and  aliens  to  the  covenant  of 
l)romise,tho  commonwealth  of  Israel,  and  not  heirs  according  to  the 
promise  made  to  Abraham ;  that  all  people  from  the  east,  west,  north 
or  south,  Avho  enter  into  the  kingdom,  enter  into  the  society  of  po- 
lygamists, and  under  their  jKVtriarchal  rule  and  government ;  indeed 
no  one  can  even  ai)]iroacli  the  gates  of  heaven  without  beholding  the 
names  of  twelve  polygamists  (the  sons  of  four  diircrent  women  bv 
one  man)  engraven  in  everlasting  glory  upon  the  pearly  gates. 

''My  dear  sister,  with  the  Scriptures  before  me,  I  could  never  find 
It  m  my  heart  to  reject  the  heavenly  vision  which  has  restored  t(^ 
man  the  fullness  of  the  Gospel,  or  the  Lattor-Day  prophets  and  apos- 
tles, merely  because  in  this  restoration  is  included  the  ar-icnt  law 
of  family  organization  and  government  preparatory  to  the  restora- 
tion of  all  Israel. 

"  But,  leaving  all  Scripture,  history,  or  ])reccdent  out  of  the  ques- 
tion, let  us  come  to  Nature's  law.  What,  then,  appears  to  be  the 
great  object  of  the  marriag(>  relations  ?  T  answer,  the  multiplying 
of  our  species,  the  rearhig  and  tniining  of  children. 

"To  accomplish  this  object,  natural  law  would  dictate  that  a  hus- 
band should  remain  apart  from  his  wile  at  certain  seasons,  wliich,in 
the  very  constitution  of  the  I'emale,  arc  untimely;  or,in  other  words, 
indulgciico  shoiild  be  not  merely  for  pleasure  or  wanton  desires,  but 
mainly  for  the  ^)>irpose  of  procreation. 

"The  mortality  of  natiirc  would  teach  a  mother  that,  diumg  Na- 
ture's process  in  the  formalion  and  growth  of  embryo  man.  her  heart 
should  lie  jniro,  her  thuughtH  and  atlVctions  chaste,  her  mind  calm. 
her  i)assions  without  excitement,  while  hor  body  should  bo  invigor'- 
atcd  with  every  exercise  condtu-ivo  to  healtli  a'nd  vigor,  but  by  no 
moans  subjected  to  ai'.y  thing  calculated  to  disturb,  irritate,  weary, 
or  exhaust  any  of  its  fiuuilutii. 


,i... 


486 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


"  And  while  a  kind  husband  should  nourish,  sustain,  and  comfort 
the  wife  of  his  bosom  by  every  kindness  and  attention  consistent 
with  her  situation  and  with  his  most  tender  affection,  still  he  should 
refrain  from  all  those  untimely  associations  which  are  forbidden  in 
the  great  constitutional  laws  of  female  nature,  which  laws  we  see 
carried  out  in  almost  the  entire  animal  economy,  human  animals  ex- 
cepted. 

"  Polygamy,  then,  as  practiced  under  the  patriarchal  law  of  God, 
tends  directly  to  the  chastity  of  women,  and  to  sound  health  and 
morals  in  the  constitutions  of  their  offspring. 

"You  can  read  in  the  law  of  God,  in  your  Bible,  the  times  and  cir- 
cumstances under  which  a  woman  should  remain  apart  from  her  hus- 
band, during  which  times  she  is  considered  unclean ;  and  should  her 
husband  come  to  her  bed  under  such  circumstances,  he  would  com- 
mit a  gross  sin  both  against  the  laws  of  nature  and  the  wise  provi- 
sions of  God's  law,  as  revealed  in  his  word ;  in  short,  he  would  com- 
mit an  abomination ;  he  would  sin  both  against  his  own  body,  against 
the  body  of  his  wife,  and  against  the  laws  of  procreation,  in  which 
the  health  and  morals  of  his  offspring  are  directly  concerned. 

"The  polygamic  law  of  God  open  i  to  all  vigorous,  healthy,  and 
virtuous  females  a  door  by  which  they  may  become  honorable  wives 
of  virtuous  men,  and  mothers  of  faithful,  virtuous,  healthy,  and  vig. 
orous  children. 

"  And  here  let  me  ask  you,  my  dear  sister,  what  female  in  all  New 
Hampshire  would  marry  a  drunkard,  a  ir^an  of  hereditary  disease,  a 
debauchee,  an  idler,  or  a  spendthrift ;  or  what  woman  would  become 
a  prostitute,  or,  on  the  other  hand,  live  and  die  single,  or  without 
forming  those  inexpressibly  dear  relatioiiKliips  of  wife  and  mother,  if 
the  Abrahamic  covenant,  or  patriarchal  laws  of  God,  were  extended 
over  your  State,  and  lield  sacred  and  lionorablo  by  all  ? 

"Dear  sister, in  your  thoughtlessness  you  in<iuirc, '  Why  not  a  plu- 
rality of  husbands  as  well  as  a  plurality  of  wives?'  To  wliioh  I  re- 
ply, Ist.  God  has  never  commanded  or  sanctioned  a  ])lurality  of  hus- 
bands ;  2d.  '•Man  is  t/ie  head  of  the  tpotiiati,^  aiul  no  woman  can  serve 
two  lords ;  3d.  Such  an  order  of  things  would  work  death  and  not 
life,  or,  in  ]>Iain  language,  it  would  nniltijily  disease  instead  of  chil- 
dren. In  fact,  the  experiment  of  a  plurality  of  husbands,  or  rather 
of  one  wuuian  for  many  men,  is  in  active  operation,  and  has  been  for 
centuricH,  in  all  the  principal  towns  and  citu-s  oi' '■ChrlsteiKiinnP  It 
is  the  gj.'nius  oC'Chrintiati.  iiiHtittition.^,^  falsely  so  called.  It  is  the 
result  oi'-Myntery  Hnftt/hm,  the  (jreat  whore  of  all  the  caHh.''  Or,  in 
other  M'ords,  it  is  the  result  t  f  making  void  the  holy  ordin.inccs  of 
God  ifi  relation  to  matrimony,  u'  i  sntrodtieing  the  laws  of  Kotne,  in 
which  the  clergy  and  nuns  are  io.i>idden  to  marry,  and  other  nicni- 
bers  only  nerniitted  to  liavo  one  wife.  This  law  le.'vves  females  ex 
posed  to  a  life  of  single  '/>/<Mfo'/»vi#,'  without  husband,  child,  or  fricnil 
to  provide  for  or  eo'nfort  them;  or  to  a  life  (*f  pDverty  and  loiii-li- 
ness,  exposed  to  temptation,  to  perverted  afft'ctit)n»,to  unlawful  means 
to  gratify  them,  or  to  the  necessity  of  selling  thenisolves  ftir  lucre. 
While  the  man  who  han  abundance  of  means  is  tempted  to  spend  it 
on  a  mistress  iu  secret,  and  in  u  lawless  way,  the  law  of  God  would 


Chap.  X. 


MRS.  PRATT'S  OPINION. 


487 


have  given  her  to  hira  as  an  honorable  wife.  These  circumstances 
give  rise  to  murder,  mtanticide,  suicide,  disease,  remorse,  despair, 
wretchedness,  poverty,  untimely  death,  with  all  the  attendant  train 
ol  jealousies,  heartrending  miseries,  want  of  confidence  in  families 
contaminating  disease,  etc. ;  and,  finally,  to  the  horrible  hcense  sys- 
tem, m  which  governments  called  Christian  license  their  fair  daueh 
ters,  T  will  not  say  to  play  the  beast,  but  to  a  degradation  far  beneath 
them ;  lor  every  species  of  the  animal  creation,  except  man,  refrain 
from  such  abominable  excesses,  and  observe  in  a  great  measure  the 
laws  of  nature  in  procreation. 

"I  again  repeat  that  Nature  has  constituted  the  female  differently 
from  the  male,  and  for  a  different  purpose.  The  strength  of  the  fe- 
male constitution  is  designed  to  flow  in  a  stream  of  life,  to  nourish 
and  sustain  the  embryo,  to  bring  it  forth,  and  to  nurse  it  on  her  bo- 
som. When  Nature  is  not  in  operation  witliin  her  in  these  particu- 
lars and  tor  these  heavenly  ends,  it  has  wisely  provided  relief  at  reg- 
ular periods,  in  order  that  her  system  may  be  kept  pure  and  healthy, 
without  exhausting  the  fountain  of  hfe  on  the  one  hand,  or  drying 
up  Its  river  of  life  on  the  other,  till  mature  ago  and  an  approaching 
change  of  worlds  render  it  necessary  for  her  to  cease  to  be  fruitful 
and  give  her  to  rest  a  while,  and  enjoy  a  tranquil  life  in  the  mitist  of 
that  tamily  circle,  endeared  to  her  by  so  many  ties,  and  which  may 
be  supposed,  at  this  period  of  her  life,  to  be  approaching  the  vigor 
of  manhood,  and  therefore  able  to  comfort  and  sustain  her. 

"  Not  so  with  man.  He  has  no  such  drawback  upon  his  strength 
It  IS  JUS  to  move  in  a  wider  siOiere.  If  God  shall  count  him  worthy 
of  a  hundred  fold  in  this  life  of  wives  and  children,  and  houses,  and 
lands,  and  kindreds,  lie  may  even  asi)ire  to  patriarchal  sovereignty, 
to  empire;  to  be  the  prince  or  heacl  of  a  tribe  or  tribes;  and,  like 
Abraham  of  old,  be  able  to  send  forth,  for  the  defense  of  his  country, 
hundreds  and  thousands  of  his  own  M'arriors,  born  in  his  own  house. 

"A  noble  man  of  Ciod,  who  is  full  of  the  !Si)int  of  tlie  Most  Ilighj 
and  is  counted  worthy  to  converse  with  Jehovah  or  with  the  Son  of 
God,  and  to  associate  with  angels  and  the  spirits  of  just  men  made 
perfect— -one  who  Mill  teach  his  children,  and  brhig  them  up  in  the 
light  of  unadulterated  and  eternal  truth— is  more  worthy  of  a  hund- 
red \yives  and  children  than  the  ignorant  slave  of  passion,  or  of  vice 
and  folly,  is  to  have  one  wife  and  one  child.  Indeed,  the  C4od  of 
Abraham  is  so  much  better  pleased  with  one  than  with  the  other, 
that  hu  Avould  even  take  away  the  one  talent,  which  is  habitually 
abuBcd,  neglected,  or  put  to  an  im]>ropor  use,  and  give  it  to  him  wlio 
has  ten  talents. 

"In  the  patriarchal  order  of  family  government  the  wife  is  bound 
to  the  law  of  her  husband.  Slu;  honors, '  culh  hhn  lord,'  even  as  Sa- 
rah obeyed  and  honored  Abraham.  She  lives  for  him,  and  to  in- 
crease his  glory,  his  greatness,  his  kingch.m.  or  family.  Ik-r  affec- 
tioiiH  are  centred  in  her  (tod,  her  husband,  and  her  children. 

"The  children  are  also  under  his  government  worlds  without  end. 
'  WKik  life,  or  thmujht,  or  twhijf  laMn,  or  hnmortality  endures,'  thev 
are  l)oun<l  to  obey  liini  as  tlu'ir  father  and  king. 

"Uo  also  haa  u  houU  to  whom  ho  is  responsible,    lie  must  keep 


.  I ; 

'  '(4 


I!!  ,    i 

i ; 
1 


it   i 


488 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


the  commandments  of  God  and  observe  his  laws.  He  must  not  take 
a  wife  unless  she  is  given  to  him  by  the  law  and  authority  of  God. 
He  must  not  commit  adultery,  nor  take  liberties  with  any  woman 
except  his  own,  who  are  secured  to  him  by  the  holy  ordinances  of 
matnmony. 

"  Hence  a  nation  organized  under  the  law  of  the  Gospel,  or,  in  oth- 
er words,  the  law  of  Abraham  and  the  patriarchs,  would  have  no  in- 
stitutions tending  to  licentiousness ;  no  adulteries,  fornications,  etc., 
would  be  tolerated.  No  houses  or  institutions  would  exist  for  traf- 
fic in  shame,  or  in  the  life-blood  of  our  fair  daughters.  Wealthy  men 
would  have  no  inducement  to  keep  a  mistress  in  secret,  or  unlawful- 
ly. Females  would  have  no  grounds  for  temptation  in  any  such  law- 
less life.  Neither  money  nor  pleasure  could  tempt  them,  nor  poverty 
drive  them  to  any  such  excess,  because  the  door  would  be  open  for 
every  virtuous  female  to  form  the  honorable  and  endearing  relation- 
ships of  N.'ife  and  mother  in  some  virtuous  family,  where  love,  and 
peace,  and  plenty  would  crown  her  days,  and  truth  and  the  practice 
of  virtue  qualify  her  to  be  transplanted  with  her  iaraily  circle  in  that 
eternal  soil  where  they  might  nuilti|)!y  their  children  without  pain, 
or  sorrow,  or  death,  and  go  on  increasing  in  numbers,  in  wealth,  hi 
greatness,  in  glory,  might,  majesty,  power,  and  dominion,  in  worlds 
without  end.  > 

"  Oh  my  dear  sister,  could  the  dark  veil  of  tradition  be  rent  from 
your  mind — could  you  gaze  for  a  moment  on  the  resurrection  of  the 
just — could  you  behold  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob,  and  their  wives 
and  children,  clad  in  the  bloom,  fresimess,  and  beauty  of  immortal 
flesh  and  bo)iea — clothed  in  robes  of  tine  white  linen,  bedecked  with 
j)reciou3  stones  and  gold,  and  siu'rounded  with  an  oftspring  of  im- 
mortals as  countless  as  the  stars  of  the  firmament  or  as  the  grains  of 
sand  upon  the  sea-shore,  over  which  they  reign  as  kings  and  queens 
forever  and  ever,  you  would  then  know  something  of  the  weight  of 
those  words  of  the  sacred  writer  which  are  recorded  in  relation  to 
the  four  wives  of  Jacob,  the  mothers  of  the  twelve  patriarchs,  name- 
ly,'  7Vt<'.'*('  dill  build  the  house  of  Israel.'' 

*'  Oh  that  my  dear  kindred  could  but  realize  that  they  have  need 
to  repent  of  the  sins,  ignorance,  and  traditions  of  those  perverted  sys- 
tems which  are  misnamed '•C'/im^/«///7y,'  and  be  baptized — buried  m 
the  water,  in  the  likeness  of  the  death  and  burial  of  Jesus  Christ,  and 
rise  to  newness  of  lifu  in  the  likeness  of  his  resurrection  ;  receive  his 
Spirit  by  the  laying  on  of  the  hands  of  an  apostle,  according  to  prom- 
ise, and  forsake  the  world  and  the  pride  thereof  Thus  thev  would 
bo  adopted  into  the  family  of  Abr.aham,  become  his  sons  and  daugh- 
ters, see  and  enjoy  for  themselves  the  visions  of  the  S[)irit  of  eu-rnal 
truth,  whidj  bear  witness  of  the  family  order  of  heaven,  atid  the  beau- 
ties and  glories  of  eternal  kindred  ties,  for  my  pen  can  never  describe 
thoni. 

"  Dear,  dear  kindred  :  remember,  according  to  tlio  New  Testament, 
and  the  testimony  of  an  ancicJit  ap»)stle.  it  you  are  ever  saved  in  thi' 
kingdom  t>f  (iod,it  must  be  by  being  adopted  info  the  family  of  no- 
lygamists — the  family  of  the  great  jiilriarch  Abraham  •,  for  in  liis 
seed,  or  family,  and  not  out  of  it, '  shall  tdl  the  nationa  and  kindreds 
nf  the  p.nrth  fjij  Ijlc'sed^^ 


Chap.  X. 


MRS.  PRATT'S  OPINION. 


4S9 


"  You  say  you  believe  polygamy  is  '  licentious;'  that  it  is  *  abom- 
inable,'' '  beastly,'  etc. ;  '  the  practice  only  of  the  most  barbarous  na- 
tions, or  of  the  Dark  Ages,  or  of  some  great  or  good  men  who  were 
left  to  commit  gross  sins.'  Yet  you  say  you  are  anxious  for  me  to 
be  converted  to  your  faith ;  and  that  we  may  see  each  other  in  this 
life,  and  bo  associated  in  one  great  family  in  that  life  which  has  no 
end. 

"  Now,  in  order  to  comply  with  your  wishes,  I  must  renounce  the 
Old  anf^  New  Testaments ;  must  count  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob, 
and  their  families,  as  licentious,  wicked,  beastly,  abominable  charac- 
ters ;  Moses,  Nathan,  David,  and  the  prophets,  rto  better.  I  must 
look  upon  the  God  of  Israel  as  partaker  in  all  these  abominations,  by 
holding  them  in  fellowship ;  and  even  as  a  minister  of  such  iniquity, 
by  giving  King  Saul's  wives  into  King  David's  bosom,  and  afterward 
by  taking  David's  wives  from  him,  and  giving  them  to  his  neighbor. 
I  must  consider  Jesus  Christ,  and  Paul,  and  John,  as  either  living  in 
a  dark  age,  as  full  of  the  darkness  and  ignorance  of  barbarous  climes, 
or  else  willfully  abominable  and  wicked  in  fellowshiping  polygamists, 
and  representing  them  as  fathers  of  the  faithful  and  rulers  in  heaven. 
I  must  doom  them  all  to  hell,  with  adulterers,  fornicators,  etc.,  or 
else,  at  least,  assign  to  them  some  nook  or  corner  in  heaven,  as  igno- 
rant persons,  who, knowing  but  little,  were  beaten  with  few  stripes; 
while,  by  analogy,  I  must  learn  to  consider  the  Roman  popes,  clergy, 
and  nuns,  who  do  not  marry  at  all,  as  forcTnost  in  the  ranks  of  glory, 
and  those  Catholics  and  Protestants  who  have  but  ono  wife  as  next 
in  order  of  salvation,  glory,  immortality,  and  eternal  life. 

"  Now,  dear  friends,  much  as  I  long  to  see  you,  and  dear  as  you 
are  to  me,  I  can  never  come  to  these  terms.  I  feel  as  though  the 
Gospel  had  introduced  me  into  the  right  family,  into  the  right  line- 
age, and  into  good  company.  And,  besides  all  these  considerations, 
sliould  I  ever  become  so  beclouded  with  unbelief  of  the  Scriptures 
and  heavenly  institutions  as  to  agree  with  my  kindred  in  New  Hamp- 
shire i:'  theory,  still  my  practical  circumstances  are  different,  and 
would,  I  fear,  continue  to  separate  us  by  a  wide  and  almost  impassji- 
ble  gulf. 

"For  instance,!  have  (as  you  see,  in  all  good  conscience,  founded 
on  the  Word  of  God)  formed  family  and  kindred  ties  which  arc  in- 
expressibly dear  to  me,  and  which  1  can  never  bring  my  feelings  to 
consent  to  dissolve.  I  have  a  good  and  virtuous  husband  whom  I 
love.  Wo  have  four  little  children  Mliich  are  mutually  and  inex- 
m-cssibly  dear  to  us.  And,  besides  this,  my  husband  has  seven  other 
living  wives,  and  ono  who  has  departed  to  a  better  world.  lie  has 
in  all  upward  of  twenty-fivo  children.  All  these  mothers  and  chil- 
dren are  endeared  to  me  by  kindred  ties,  by  mutual  affection,  by  ac- 
quaintance and  association  ;  and  the  mothers  in  particular,  by  mutual 
and  long-continued  exercines  of  toil,  patience,  long-suffering,  and  sis- 
terly kindness.  Wo  all  have  our  imperfections  in  this  life;  but  1 
know  t'i  U  i;  -so  are  good  and  worthy  women,  and  that  my  husband 
18  a  good  and  worthy  num ;  ono  who  keeps  the  commanc'lnients  of 
Jesus  ('hv.4,  and  presides  in  his  family  like  an  Abrnlmm.  He  seeks 
to  provide  for  them  with.  uU  diligence ;  ho  loves  them  all,  uud  socks 


440 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  X. 


to  comfort  them  and  make  them  happy.  He  teaches  them  the  com- 
mandments of  Jesus  Christ,  and  gathers  them  about  him  in  the  fam- 
ily circle  to  call  upon  his  God,  both  morning  and  evening.  He  and 
his  family  have  the  confidence,  esteem,  good-will,  and  fellowship  of 
this  entire  Territory,  and  of  a  wide  circle  of  acquaintances  in  Europe 
and  America.  He  is  a  practical  teacher  of  morals  and  religion,  a 
promoter  of  general  education,  and  at  present  occupies  an  honorable 
seat  in  the  Legislative  Council  of  this  Territory. 

"  Now,  as  to  visiting  my  kindred  in  New  Hampshire,  I  would  be 
pleased  to  do  so  were  it  the  will  of  God.  But,  first,  the  laws  of  that 
State  must  be  so  modified  by  enlightened  legislation,  and  the  customs 
and  consciences  of  its  inhabitants,  and  of  ray  kindred,  so  altered,  that 
my  husband  can  accompany  me  with  all  his  wives  and  children,  and 
be  as  much  respected  and  honored  in  his  family  organization  and  in 
his  holy  calling  as  he  is  at  home,  or  in  the  same  manner  as  the  patri- 
arch Jacob  would  have  been  respected  had  he,  with  his  wives  and 
children,  paid  a  visit  to  his  kindred.  As  my  husband  is  yet  in  his 
youth,  as  well  as  myself,  I  fondly  hope  we  shall  live  to  see  that  day ; 
for  already  the  star  of  Jacob  is  in  the  ascendency ;  the  house  of  Is- 
rael is  about  to  be  restored ;  while  '•Mystery  Bahylon^  with  all  her  in- 
stitutions, awaits  her  own  overthrow.  Till  this  is  the  case  in  New 
Hampshire,  my  kindred  will  be  under  the  necessity  of  coming  here 
to  see  us,  or,  on  the  other  hand,  we  will  be  mutually  compelled  to 
forego  the  pleasure  of  each  other's  company. 

"  You  mention  in  your  letter  that  Paul  the  apostle  recommended 
that  bishops  be  the  husband  of  one  wife.  Why  this  was  the  case  I 
do  not  know,  unless  it  was,  as  he  says,  that  while  he  was  among  Ro- 
mans he  did  as  Romans  did.  Rome  at  that  time  governed  the  world, 
as  it  were ;  and,  although  gross  idolaters,  they  held  to  the  one-wife 
system.  Under  these  circumstances,  no  doubt,  the  apostle  Paul,  see- 
ing a  great  many  polygamists  in  the  Church,  recommended  that  tliey 
had  better  choose  for  this  particular  temporal  oflice  men  of  small  fam- 
ilies, who  would  not  be  in  disrepute  with  the  go\  ernment.  This  is 
precisely  our  course  in  those  countries  where  Roman  institutions 
still  bear  swJiy.  Our  elders  there  have  but  one  wife,  in  order  to  con- 
form to  the  laws  of  men. 

"  You  intjuire  why  Elder  W.,  when  at  your  house,  denied  that  the 
Church  of  this  age  held  to  the  doctrine  of  plurality.  I  answer  that 
ho  might  liave  boen  ignorant  of  tl)o  fact,  as  our  belief  on  this  point 
was  not  ])ublishod  till  1852.  And  had  ho  known  it,  he  had  no  right 
to  reveal  the  same  until  the  full  time  had  arrived.  God  kindly  with- 
held this  doctrine  for  p  time,  because  of  the  ignorance  and  pr«(judice 
of  the  nations  of  mystic  Babylon,  that  peradventure  ho  might  save 
some  ol"  til  em. 

"  Now,  dear  sister,  I  must  oloso.  I  wish  all  my  kindred  and  old 
acquaintances  to  seo  this  letter,  or  a  copy  thereof,  and  that  they  .vill 
consider  it  as  if  written  to  themselves.  I  love  them  dearly,  and  great- 
ly deHiro  an<l  pray  lor  their  salvation,  rnd  that  wo  may  all  meet  with 
Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Ja«  .>b  in  tlie  kingtlom  of  (tod. 

"Dear  sister,  do  not  let  your  prejudices  and  traditions  keep  yon 
from  believing  the  Uible,  nor  the  pride,  shame,  or  lovo  of  the  world 


Chap.  XI.         MORMONISM  THE  FAITH  OF  THE  POOR. 


441 


keep  you  from  your  seat  in  the  kingdom  of  heaven,  among  the  royal 
family  of  polygamists.     Write  often  and  freely. 

"  With  sentiments  of  the  deepest  affection  and  kindred  feeling,  I 
remain,  dear  sister,  your  affectionate  sister, 

"  Belinda  Maeden  Pkatt." 


hi 


CHAPTER  XL 

Last  Days  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

I  NOW  terminate  my  observations  upon  the  subject  of  Mormon- 
ism.  It  will  be  remarked  that  the  opinions  of  others — not  my 
own — have  been  recorded  as  carefully  as  my  means  of  study  have 
permitted,  and  that  facts,  not  theories,  have  been  the  object  of  this 
dissertation. 

It  will,  I  think,  be  abundantly  evident  that  Utah  Territory  has 
been  successful  in  its  colonization.  Every  where,  indeed,  in  the 
New  World,  the  stranger  wonders  that  a  poor  man  should  tarry 
in  Europe,  or  that  a  rich  man  should  remain  in  America ;  noth- 
ing but  the  strongest  chains  of  habit  and  vis  meriice  can  reconcile 
both  to  their  miserable  lots.  I  can  not  help  thinking  that,  mor- 
ally and  spiritually,  as  well  as  physically,  the  jii'oteges  of  the  Per- 
petual Emigration  Fund  gain  by  being  transferred  to  the  Far 
West.  Mormonism  is  emphatically  the  faith  of  the  poor,  and 
those  acquainted  with  the  wretched  condition  of  the  English  me- 
chanic, collier,  and  agricultural  laborer — it  is  calculated  that  a 
million  of  them  exist  on  £25  per  aimum — who,  after  a  life  of  ig- 
noble drudgery,  of  toiling  through  the  year  from  morning  till 
night,  are  ever  threatened  with  the  work-house,  must  be  of  the 
same  opinion.  Physically  speaking,  there  is  no  comparison  be- 
tween tne  conditions  of  tue  Saints  and  the  class  from  which  they 
are  mostly  taken.  In  point  of  mere  morality,  the  Mormon  com- 
munity is  perhaps  purer  than  any  other  of  equal  numbers.*  I 
have  no  wish  to  commend  their  spiritual,  or,  rather,  their  materi- 
alistic vagaries — a  materialism  so  leveling  in  its  unauthorized  de- 
ductions that  even  the  materialist  must  reject  it;  but  with  the 
mind  as  with  the  body,  bad  food  is  better  than  none.  When 
wealth  shall  be  less  unequally  distributed  in  England,  thus  doing 
away  with  the  contrast  of  excessive  splendor  and  utter  destitu- 
tion, and  when  Ilomc  Missions  shall  have  done  their  duty  in  ed- 
ucating and  evangelizing  the  unhappy  pariahs  of  town  and  coun- 
try, the  sons  of  the  land  which  boasts  herself  to  be  the  foremost 
among  the  nations  will  blush  no  more  to  hear  that  the  Mormons 
or  Latter-Day  Saints  arc  mostly  English. 

About  the  middle  of  September  the  time  of  my  departure  drew 
nigh.  Judge  Flennikin  found  a  change  of  vetnic  to  Carson  Val- 
ley necessary ;  Thomas,  his  son,  was  to  accompany  him,  and  the 
*  I  refer  tlic  reader  to  Ai)jx;iidix  IV. 


442  THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS.  Chap.  XI. 

Territorial  marshal,  Mr.Grice — a  quondam  volunteer  in  the  Mex- 
ican War— was  part  of  the  cortege.  Escort  and  ambulance  had 
been  refused ;  it  was  imperative  to  find  both.  Several  proposals 
were  made  and  rejected.  At  last  an  eligible  presented  himself. 
Mr.  Kennedy,  an  Irishman  from  the  neighborhood  of  Dublin,  and 
an  incola  of  California,  where  evil  fate  had  made  him  a  widower 
had  "  swapped"  stock,  and  was  about  to  drive  thirty-three  horses 
and  mules  to  the  "  El  Dorado  of  the  West."  For  the  sum  of  $150 
each  he  agreed  to  convey  us,  to  provide  an  ambulance  which  cost 
him  $300,  and  three  wagons  which  varied  in  price  from  $25  to 
$75.  We  had  reason  to  think  well  of  his  probity,  concerning 
which  WG  had  taken  counsel ;  and  as  he  had  lost  a  horse  or  two 
and  nad  received  a  bullet  through  the  right  arm  in  an  encounter 
with  the  Yuta  Indians  near  Deep  Creek  on  the  3d  of  July  of  the 
same  year,  we  had  little  doubt  of  his  behaving  with  due  prudence 
He  promised  also  to  collect  a  sufficient  armed  party;  and  as  the 
road  had  lately  seen  troubles— three  drivers  had  been  shot  and 
seventeen  Indians  had  been  reported  slain  in  action  by  the  fed- 
eral troops— we  were  certain  that  he  would  keep  his  word.  It 
was  the  beginning  of  the  hungry  season,  when  the  Indians  would 
be  collecting  their  pine  nuts  and  be  plotting  onslaughts  upon  the 
spring  emigrants. 

I  prepared  for  difficulties  by  having  my  hair  "shingled  off" 
till  my  head  somewhat  resembled  a  pointer's  dorsum,  and  deeply 
regretted  having  left  all  my  wigs  behind  me.  The  marshal  un- 
dertook to  lay  in  our  i)rovisions :  we  bought  flour,  hard  bread  or 
biscuit,  eggs  and  bacon,  butter,  a  few  ])otted  luxuries,  not  forget- 
ting a  goodly  allowance  of  whisky  and  korn  schnapps,  whose  only 
demerit  was  that  it  gave  a  taste  to  the  next  morning.  The  trav- 
eling canteen  consisted  of  a  little  china,  tin  cups  and  plates,  a  coi- 
fee-pot,  frying-pan,  and  largo  ditto  for  bread-baking,  with  spoons 
knives,  and  forks.  ' 

The  last  preparations  were  soon  made.  I  wrote  to  my  friends 
among  others  to  Dr.  Norton  Shaw,  who  read  out  the  missive 
iimjno  cum  rim  mulicnUum,  bought  a  pair  of  leather  loggins  for 
$0,  settled  with  M.  Gebow,  a  Gamaliel  at  whose  feet  I  had  sat  a^ 
a  student  of  the  Yuta  dialect,  and  defrayed  the  expenses  of  living, 
which,  though  the  bill  was  curiously  worded,*  were  cxemplarilv 

•  The  bill  in  question  : 

^         .     „  fit.  S.  I,,  f'lty,  Soptflicr  18th,  1880. 

(  nptnin  Burtcn  to  James  Townsond,  Dr. 

Aug.  27.  14  Bottle  Hocr coo 

Ui'lt  &.  Sr;il)hnril f,((0 

Clt'iuiinK  VcKt  iind  Cont 250 

2  Bottles  Brnndny 450 

WiiHliiiig ;...'■     f,2ft 

to  Cnsh,  five  tloljnrs floo 

to  .1  wenks  3  days  Bord 3425 

_    ,    „       ,  G2^.it) 

Cash,  five  dollnrs 500 


Chap. XII,       ADIEUX.— "ALL  ABOORD."— MOUNT  NEBO. 


443 


inexpensive.  Colonel  Stambaugh  favored  me  with  a  parting  gift, 
the  "  Manual  of  Surveying  Instructions,"  which  I  preserve  as  a 
reminiscence,  and  a  cocktail  whose  aroma  still  lingers  in  mv  ol- 
factories. My  last  evening  was  spent  with  Mr.  Stambaugh,  when 
Mr,  John  Taylor  was  present,  and  where,  with  the  kindly  aid  of 
Madam,  we  drank  a  cafe  au  lait  as  good  as  the  Cafe  de  Paris  af- 
fords. I  thanked  the  governor  for  his  frank  and  generous  hospi- 
tality, and  made  my  acknowledgments  to  his  amiable  wife.  All 
my  adieux  were  upon  an  extensive  scale,  the  immediate  future 
being  somewhat  dark  and  menacing. 

The  start  in  these  regions  is  coquettish  as  in  Eastern  Africa. 
We  were  to  depart  on  Wednesday,  the  19th  of  September,  at  8 
A.M. — then  10  A.M. — then  12  A.M.— then,  after  a  deprecatory 
visit,  on  the  morrow.  On  the  morning  of  the  eventful  next  day, 
after  the  usual  amount  of  "smiling,"  and  a  repetition  of  adieux, 
Ifound  myself  " all  aboord,"  wending  southward,  and  mentally 
ejaculating  Hierosolymam  quando  revisam  ? 


MOONT  NEDO, 


CHAPTER  XII. 

To  Ruby  Valley. 

Mounted  n]ion  a  fine  mule,  here  worth  $240,  and  "  bound"  to 
fetch  in  California  $400,  and  accomfianying  a  Gentile  youth  who 
answered  to  the  name  of  Joe,  I  proceeded  to  take  my  first  lesson 


.    'i  ' 
!..  .' 


|l      'I    ' 

1,1 


■It 


444 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  xn. 


in  stock-driving.  We  were  convoying  ten  horses,  which,  not  be- 
ing wild,  declined  to  herd  together,  and,  by  their  straggling,  made 
the  task  not  a  little  difficult  to  a  tyro.  The  road  was  that  leading 
to  Csiinp  Floyd  before  described.  At  the  Brewery  near  Mount- 
ain Point  we  found  some  attempts  at  a  station,  and  were  charged 
$1  50  for  frijoles,  potatoes,  and  bread :  among  other  decorations 
on  the  wall  was  a  sheet  of  prize-fighters,  in  which  appeared  the 
portraiture  of  an  old  man,  once  the  champion  of  the  light  weights 
in  the  English  ring,  now  a  Saint  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  The 
day  was  fine  and  wondrous  clear,  affording  us  a  splendid  back 
view  of  the  Happy  Valley  before  it  was  finally  shut  out  from 
sight,  and  the  Utah  Lake  looked  a  very  gem  of  beauty,  a  diamond 
in  its  setting  of  steely  blue  mountains.  After  fording  the  Jordan 
we  were  overtaken  by  Mr.  Kennedy,  who  had  been  delayed  by 
more  last  words,  and  at  the  dug-out  we  drank  beer  with  Shrop- 
shire Joe  the  Mormon,  who  had  been  vainly  attempting  to  dig 
water  by  a  divining  rod  of  peach-tree.  When  moonlight  began 
to  appear,  Joe  the  Gentile  was  ordered  by  the  "  boss"  to  camp  out 
with  the  horses,  where  fodder  could  be  found  gratis,  a  command- 
ment which  he  obeyed  with  no  end  of  grumbling.  It  was  deep 
in  the  night  before  we  entered  Frogtown,  where  a  creaking  little 
Osteria  supplied  us  with  supper,  and  I  found  a  bed  at  the  quar- 
ters of  my  friend  Captain  Heth,  who  obligingly  insisted  upon  my 
becoming  his  guest. 

The  five  days  between  the  20th  and  the  26th  of  September 
sped  merrily  at  my  new  home.  Camp  Floyd;  not  pressed  for 
time,  I  embraced  with  pleasure  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  most 
of  my  American  brothers  in  arms.  My  host  was  a  son  of  that 
Old  Dominion  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  where  still  linger  traces  of  the 
glorious  Cavalier  and  the  noble  feudal  spirit,  which  (alas!)  have 
almost  disappeared  from  the  mother  country ;  where  the  genea- 
logical tree  still  hangs  against  the  wall ;  where  the  principal  fam- 
ilies, the  Nelsons,  Harrisons,  Pages,  Seldens,  and  Aliens,  intermar- 
ry and  bravely  attempt  to  entail ;  and  where  the  houses,  built  of 
brick  brought  out  from  England,  still  retain  traces  of  the  seven- 
teenth century.  A  winter  indeed  might  be  passed  most  pleasant- 
ly on  the  banks  o'  James  Eiver  and  in  the  west  of  Virginia — a 
refreshing  winter  to  those  who  love,  as  I  do,  the  traditions  of  our 
ancestors. 

From  Captain  Heth  I  gathered  that  in  former  times,  in  V/'csteni 
America  as  in  British  India,  a  fair  aborigine  was  not  unfrequent- 
ly  the  copartner  of  an  officer's  hut  or  tent.  The  improved  com- 
munication, however,  and  the  frequency  of  marriage,  have  abol- 
ished the  custom  by  rendering  it  unfashionable.  The  Indian 
squaw,  like  the  Beebee,  seldom  looked  upon  her  "mari"  in  any 
other  light  but  her  banker.  An  inveterate  beggar,  she  would  beg 
for  all  her  relations,  for  all  her  friends,  and  all  her  tribe,  rather 
than  not  beg  at  all,  and  the  lavatory  process  required  always  to 


Chap.  XII. 


SPREES.— ARMY  GRIEVANCES. 


445 


i:i 


be  prefaced  with  the  bribe.  OflEicers  who  were  long  thrown  among 
the  Prairie  Indians  joined,  as  did  the  Anglo-Indian,  in  their  nautch- 
es  and  other  amusements,  where,  if  whisky  was  present,  a  cut  or 
stab  might  momentarily  be  ejcpected.  The  skin  was  painted  white, 
black,  and  red,  the  hair  was  dressed  and  decorated,  and  the  shirt 
was  tied  round  the  waist,  while  broadcloth  and  blanket,  leggins 
and  moccasins  completed  the  costume.  The  "  crack  thing  to  do" 
when  drinking  with  Indians,  and  listening  to  their  monotonous 
songs  and  tales,  was  to  imitate  Indian  customs ;  to  become,  under 
the  influence  of  the  jolly  god,  a  Hatim  Tai ;  exceedingly  gener- 
ous ;  to  throw  shirt  to  one  man,  blanket  to  another,  leggins  to  a 
third — in  fact,  to  return  home  in  breech-cloth.  Such  sprees  would 
have  been  severely  treated  by  a  highly  respectable  government ; 
they  have  now,  however,  like  many  a  pleasant  hour  in  British  In- 
dia, had  their  day,  and  are  sunk,  many  a  fathom  deep,  in  the  gen- 
uine Anglo-Scandinavian  gloom. 

I  heard  more  of  army  grievances  during  my  second  stay  at 
Camp  Floyd.  The  term  of  a  soldier's  enlistment,  five  years,  is 
too  short,  especially  for  the  cavalry  branch,  and  the  facilities  for 
desertion  are  enormous.  Between  the  two,  one  third  of  the  army 
disappears  every  year.  The  company  which  should  number  84 
has  often  only  50  men.  The  soldier  has  no  time  to  learn  his 
work ;  he  must  drive  wagons,  clear  bush,  make  roads,  and  build 
huts  and  stables.  When  thoroughly  drilled  he  can  take  his  dis- 
charge, and  having  filled  a  purse  out  of  his  very  liberal  pay  ($11 
per  mensem),  he  generally  buys  ground  and  becomes  a  landed 
proprietor.  The  ofl&cers  are  equally  well  salaried ;  but  marching, 
countermarching,  and  contingent  expenses  are  heavy  enough  to 
make  the  profession  little  better  than  it  is  in  France.  The  Secre- 
tary of  War  being  a  civilian,  with  naturally  the  highest  theoretic- 
al idea  of  discipline  and  command  combined  with  economy,  is  al- 
ways a  martinet ;  no  one  can  exceed  the  minutest  order,  and  leave 
is  always  obtained  under  difiiculties.  As  the  larger  proportion 
of  the  officers  are  Southern  men,  especially  Virginians,  and  as  the 
soldiers  are  almost  entirely  Germans  and  Irish — the  Egyptians  of 
modern  times — the  federal  army  will  take  little  part  in  the  ensu- 
ing contest.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  force  will  disband, 
break  in  two  like  the  nationalities  from  which  it  is  drawn.  As 
far  as  I  could  judge  of  American  officers,  they  are  about  as  repub- 
lican in  mind  and  tone  of  thought  as  those  of  the  British  army. 
They  are  aware  of  the  fact  that  the  bundle  of  sticks  requires  a 
tie,  but  they  prefer,  as  we  all  do.  King  Stork  to  King  Log,  and 
King  Log  to  King  Mob. 

I  took  sundry  opportunities  of  attending  company  inspections, 
and  found  the  men  well  dressed  and  tolerably  set  up,  while  the 
bands,  being  German,  were  of  course  excellent.  Mr.  Cbandless 
and  others  talk  of  the  United  States  army  discipline  as  something 
Draconian ;  severity  is  doubtless  necessary  in  a  force  so  consti- 


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446 


THE  Cmr  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Cha?.  xir. 


tuted,  but — a  proof  of  their  clemencv — desertion  is  the  only  crime 
punishable  by  flogging.  The  uniform  is  a  study.  The  States 
have  attempted  in  the  dress  of  their  arnay,  as  in  the  forms  of  their 
government,  a  moral  impossibility.  It  is  expected  to  be  at  once 
cheap  and  soldier-like,  useful  and  ornamental,  light  and  heavy, 
pleasantly  hot  in  the  arctic  regions,  and  agreeably  cool  under  the 
tropics.  The  "  military  tailors"  of  the  English  army  similarly 
forget  the  number  of  changes  required  in  civilian  raiment,  and, 
looking  to  the  hghtness  of  the  soldier's  kit,  wholly  neglect  its  ef- 
ficiency, its  capability  of  preserving  the  soldier's  life.  The  feder- 
al uniform  consists  of  a  brigand-like  and  bizarre  sombrero,  with 
Mephistophelian  cock-plum^  and  of  a  blue  broadcloth  tunic,  im- 
itated from  the  old  Kentuckian  hunter's  surtout  or  wrapper,  with 
terminations  sometimes  made  to  match,  at  other  times  too  dark 
and  dingy  to  please  the  eye.  Its  principal  merit  is  a  severe  re- 
publican plainness,  very  consistent  with  the  prepossessions  of  the 
people,  highly  inconsistent  with  the  customs  of  military  nations. 
Soldiers  love  to  dress  up  Mars,  not  to  clothe  him  like  a  butcher's 
boy. 

The  position  of  Camp  Floyd  is  a  mere  brick-yard,  a  basin  sur-' 
rounded  by  low  hills,  which  an  Indian  pony  would  have  little  dif- 
ficulty in  traversing;  sometimes,  however,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
land,  though  apparently  easy  from  afar,  the  summits  assume  a 
mural  shape,  which  would  stop  any  thing  but  a  mountain  sheep. 
The  rim  shows  antidinal  strata,  evidencing  upheavals,  disruption, 
and,  lastly,  drainage  through  the  kanyons  which  break  the  wall. 
The  principal  vegetation  is  the  dwarf  cedar  above,  the  sage  green- 
wood and  rabbit-bush  below.  The  only  animals  seen  upon  the 
plain  are  jackass-rabbits,  which  in  places  afford  excellent  sport. 
There  are' but  few  Mormons  in  the  valley ;  they  supply  the  camp 
with  hay  and  vegetables,  and  are  said  to  act  as  spies.  The  ofli- 
cers  can  not  but  remark  the  coarse  features  and  the  animal  ex- 
pression of  their  countenances.  On  the  outskirts  of  camp  are  a 
few  women  that  have  taken  sanctuary  among  the  Gentiles,  who 
here  muster  too  strong  for  the  Saints.  The  principal  amusement 
seemed  to  be  that  of  walking  into  and  out  of  the  sutlers'  stores, 
the  hospitable  Messns.  Gilbert's  and  Livingston's  —  a  passe  temps 
which  1  have  seen  at  "  Sukkur  Bukkur  Rohri"— and  in  an  even- 
ing ride,  dull,  monotonous,  and  melancholy,  as  if  wo  were  in  the 
vicinity  of  Hyderabad,  Sindh. 

I  had  often  heard  of  a  local  lion,  the  Timpanogos  Kanyon,  and 
my  I'riends  Captains  Ileth  and  Gove  had  obligingly  oifered  to 
show  me  its  curiosities.  After  breakfast  on  the  23d  of  September 
— a  bright  warm  day — wo  set  out  in  a  good  amb:ilance,  well  pro- 
vided with  the  materials  of  a  two  days'  picnic,  behind  r  fine  team 
of  four  mules,  on  the  road  leading  to  the  [Ttuh  Lake.  Ahor  pass- 
ing Simple  Joe's  dug-out  wo  sighted  the  water  once  more;  it  was 
of  a  whitish-bluo,  like  the  milky  waves  of  Jordan,  embosomed  in 


Chap.  XIL 


JORDAN  BRroGE._AMERICAN  FORK. 


447 


the  embrace  of  tall  and  bald-headed  huu  ^r.A 

monarch  waa  Nebo  of  the  jagged  c^^^^^^  ^^°«« 

sets  there  are  patches  of  ^fS  sanTstrln'wit^^^^^^^^ 

and  dried  water-weed.    Near  Pelican  PnTnt   o  i    ^^^^^^.  shells 

rocky  spit,  there  is  a  fine  feeXg-g  rnd  for  1^^^^^      JT«*^°! 

swimmers  and  divers  may  alwafs  be  J^n  ^nnl      .u    ''^'' ''"^ 

foreground  was  a  mass  of  emerald  cane,  high  and Yushy  •^be;ond 

white  stones,  and  a  quantity  of  trout  swimming  the  lin  pid  wave 
fv  fmrl      r^'  ""^'T  '"  ^^^^  ^^''  Yuta  Indians  fled  procipHate 


448 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII, 


which  were  miniature  castles.  The  mouth  of  the  ravine  was  a 
romantic  spot:  the  staples  were  sister  giants  of  brown  rock — here 
sheer,  their  sloping— where  pines  and  firs  found  a  precarious  root- 
hold,  and  ranged  in  long  perspective  lines,  while  between  them, 
through  its  channel,  verdant  with  willow,  and  over  a  clear  peb- 
bly bed,  under  the  screes  and  scaurs,  coursed  a  mountain  torrent 
more  splendid  than  Ruknabad. 

We  forded  the  torrent  and  pursued  the  road,  now  hugging  the 
right,  then  the  left  side  of  the  chasm.  The  latter  was  exceeding- 
ly beautiful,  misty  with  the  blue  of  heaven,  and  rising  till  its  so- 
lidity was  blent  with  the  tenuity  of  ether.  Th.-  ^est  of  the  scenery 
was  that  of  the  great  Cotton- wood  Kanyon ;  painting  might  ex- 
press the  difference,  language  can  not.  After  six  miles  of  a  nar- 
row winding  road,  we  reached  the  place  of  Cataracts,  the  princi- 
pal lion  of  the  place,  and  found  that  the  season  had  reduced  them 
to  two  thin  milky  lines  coursing  down  bitumen-colored  slopes  of 
bare  rock,  bordered  by  shaggy  forests  of  firs  and  cedars.  The 
shrinking  of  the  water^'s  volume  lay  bare  the  formation  of  the  cas- 
cades, two  steps  and  a  slope,  which  at  a  happier  time  would  have 
been  veiled  by  a  continuous  sheet  of  foam. 

After  finding  a  suitable  spot  we  outspanned,  and,  while  recruit- 
ing exhausted  nature,  allowed  our  mules  to  roll  and  rest.  After 
dining  and  collecting  a  few  shells,  we  remounted  and  drove  back 
through  a  magnificent  sunset  to  American  Fork,  where  the  bish- 
op, Mr.  Lysander  Dayton,  of  Ohio,  had  offered  us  bed  and  board. 
The  good  episkopos  was  of  course  a  Mormon,  as  we  could  see  by 
his  two  pretty  wives ;  he  supplied  us  with  an  excellent  supper  as 
a  host,  not  as  an  innkeeper.  The  little  settlement  was  Great  SaH 
Lake  City  on  a  small  scale— full  of  the  fair  sex ;  every  one,  by- 
the-by,  appeared  to  be,  or  about  to  be,  a  mother.  Fair,  but,  alas! 
not  fair  to  us ;  it  was  verily 

"  Water,  water  crery  where, 
And  not  a  drop  to  drink  1" 

Before  setting  out  homeward  on  tlie  next  day  we  met  O.  Por- 
ter Rockwell,  and  took  him  to  the  house  with  us.  This  old  Mor- 
mon, in  days  gone  by,  suffered  or  did  not  suffer  imprisonment  for 
shooting  or  not  shooting  Governor  Boggs,  of  Missouri:  he  now 
herds  cattle  for  Messrs.  Russell  and  Co.  His  tastes  are  apparent- 
ly rural ;  his  enemies  declare  that  his  life  would  not  bo  safe  in 
the  City  of  the  Saints.  An  attempt  had  lately  been  made  to  as- 
sassinate him  in  one  of  the  kanyons,  and  the  first  report  that 
reached  my  cars  when  en  route  to  California  was  the  murder  of 
the  old  Danitc  by  a  certain  Mr.  Marony.  He  is  one  of  the  tri- 
umvirate, the  First  Presidency  of  "executives,"  the  two  others 
being  Kpho  Hanks  and  Bill  tlickman— whose  names  were  loud 
in  tQ  land ;  they  are  now,  however,  going  down  ;  middle  ago  has 
rendored  them  comparatively  inactive,  and  the  ri.sing  generation, 
Lot  Huntington,  Ike  Clawson,  and  other  desperadoes,  whoso  teeth 


Chap.  XII. 


THE  OLD  «'DANITE." 


449 


and  claws  are  full  grown,  are  able  and  willing  to  stand  in  their 
stead.     Peter  Eockwell  was  a  man  about  fifty,  tall  and  strong, 
with  ample  leather  leggins  overhanging  his  huge  spurs,  and  the 
saw-handles  of  two  revolvers  peeping  Irom  his  blouse.     His  fore- 
head was  already  a  little  bald,  and  he  wore  his  long  grizzly  locks 
after  the  ancient  fashion  of  the  United  States,  plaited  and  gather- 
ed up  at  the  nape  of  the  neck ;  his  brow,  puckered  with  frown- 
ing wrinkles,  contrasted  curiously  with  his  cool,  determined  gray 
eye,  jolly  red  face,  well  touched  up  with  "paint,"  and  his  laugli- 
ing,  good-humored  mouth.    He  had  the  manner  of  a  jovial,  reck- 
less, devil-may-care  English  ruffian.    The  officers  called  him  Por- 
ter, and  preferred  him  to  the  "slimy  villains"  who  will  drink  with 
a  man  and  then  murder  him.    After  a  little  preliminary  business 
about  a  stolen  horse,  all  conducted  on  the  amiable,  he  pulled  out 
a  dollar,  and  sent  to  the  neighboring  distillery  for  a  bottle  of  Val- 
ley Tan.     The  aguardiente  was  smuggled  in  under  a  cloth,  as 
though  we  had  been  respectables  in  a  Moslem  country,  and  we 
were  asked  to  join  him  in  a  "squar'  drink,"  which  means  spirits 
without  water.    The  mode  of  drinking  was  peculiar.     Porter, 
after  the  preliminary  sputation,  raised  the  glass  with  cocked  little 
finger  to  his  lips,  with  a  twinkle  of  the  eye  ejaculated  "Wheat  I" 
that  is  to  say,  "good,"  and  drained  the  tumbler  to  the  bottom: 
we  acknowledged  his  civility  with  a  "  here's  how,"  and  drank 
Kentucky -fashion,  which  in  Engii;  U  is  midshipman's  grog.     Of 
these  "  squar'  drinks"  we  had  at  least  four,  which,  however,  did 
not  shake  Mr.  Eockwell's  nerve,  and  then  he  sent  out  for  more. 
Meanwhile  be  told  us  his  last  adventure  —  how,  when  ascending 
the  kanyon,  he  rnddenly  found  himself  covered  by  two  long  ri- 
fles; how  he  had  thrown  himself  from  his  horse,  drawn  his  re- 
volver, and  crept  behind  a  bush,  and  how  he  had  dared  the  en- 
emy to  come  out  and  fight  like  men.    He  spoke  of  one  Obry,  a 
Frenchman,  lately  killed  in  a  street-quarrel,  who  rode  on  business 
from  Santa  Fd  to  Independence,  about  600  miles,  in  110  hours. 
Porter  offi3red,  for  the  fun  of  the  thing,  to  excel  him  by  getting 
over  900  in  144.    When  he  heard  that  I  was  preparing  for  Cali- 
fornia, ho  gave  me  abundant  good  advice — to  carry  a  double-bar- 
reled gun  loaded  with  buck-shot;  to  "keep  my  eyes  skinned," 
especially  in  kanyons  and  ravines ;  to  make  at  times  a  dark  camp 
— that  is  to  say,  unliitching  for  supper,  and  then  hitching  up  and 
turning  a  few  miles  olFtho  road ;  ever  to  be  ready  for  attack  when 
the  animals  were  being  inspanned  and  outspanned,  and  never  to 
trust  to  appearances  in  an  Indian  country,  where  the  red  varmint 
will  follow  a  man  for  weeks,  perhaps  peering  through  a  wisp  of 
grass  on  a  hill-top  till  the  time  arrives  for  striking  the  blow.     I 
observed  that,  when  thus  speaking,  Porter's  eyes  assumed  the  ex- 
pression of  an  old  mountaineer's,  ever  rolling  as  if  set  in  quick- 
silver.    For  the  purpose  of  avoiding  "  White  Indians,"  the  worst 
of  their  kind,  ho  advised  mo  to  shun  tho  direct  route,  which  ho 


'U 


450 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


represented  to  be  about  as  fit  for  traveling  as  is  h — ^11  for  a  pow- 
der magazine,  and  to  journey  vid  Fillmore  and  the  wonder-bear- 
ing White  Mountains  ;*  finally,  he  comforted  me  with  an  assur- 
ance that  either  the  Indians  would  not  attempt  to  attack  us  and 
our  stock — ever  a  sore  temptation  to  them — or  that  they  would 
assault  us  in  force  and  "  wipe  us  out." 

When  the  drinking  was  finished  we  exchanged  a  cordial  poig- 
nee  de  main  with  Porter  and  our  hospitable  host,  who  appeared 
to  be  the  creme  de  la  creme  of  Utah  County,  and  soon  found  our- 
selves again  without  the  limits  of  Camp  Floyd. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  September,  the  judge,  accompa- 
nied by  his  son  and  the  Marshal  of  the  Territory,  entered  the  can- 
tonment, and  our  departure  was  fixed  for  the  next  day.  The 
morning  of  the  start  was  spent  in  exchanging  adieux  and  little 
gifts  with  men  who  had  now  become  friends,  and  in  stirrup-cups 
which  succeeded  one  ai  other  at  no  longer  intervals  than  quarter 
hours.  Judge  Crosby,  who  had  arrived  by  the  last  mail,  kindly 
provided  me  with  fif^liing- tackle  which  could  relieve  a  diet  of 
eggs  and  bacon,  and  made  me  regret  that  I  had  not  added  to  my 
outfit  a  Maynard.  This,  the  best  of  breech-loading  guns,  can  also 
be  loaded  at  the  muzzle ;  a  mere  carbine  in  size,  it  kills  at  1300 
yards,  and  in  the  United  States  costs  only  $40 =£8.  The  judge, 
a  remarkable  contrast  to  the  usual  Elijah  Pogram  style  that  still 
affects  bird's-eye  or  speckled  white  tie,  black  satin  waistcoat,  and 
swallow  -  tailed  coat  of  rusty  broadcloth,  with  terminations  to 
mat^h,  had  been  employed  for  some  time  in  Oregon  and  at  St. 
Juan :  he  knew  one  of  my  expatriated  friends  —  poor  J.  de  C, 
whose  exile  wc  all  lament — and  he  gave  me  introductions  which 
I  found  most  useful  in  Carson  Valley.  Like  the  best  Americans, 
he  spoke  of  the  English  as  brothers,  and  freely  owned  the  defi- 
ciencies of  his  government,  especially  in  dealing  with  the  frontier 
Indians. 

Wc  started  from  Lieutenant  Dudley's  hospitable  quarters,  where 
a  crowd  had  collected  to  bid  us  farewell.  The  ambulance,  with 
four  mules  driven  by  Mr.  Kennedy  in  person,  stood  at  the  door, 
and  the  parting  stirrup-cup  was  exhibited  with  a  will.  I  bade 
farewell  with  a  true  regret  to  my  kind  and  gallant  hoste,  whose 
brotherly  attentions  had  made  even  wretched  Camp  Floyd  a 
pleasant  sijoiir  to  mo.  At  the  moment  I  write  it  is  probably  des- 
olate, the  "  Secession"  disturbances  having  necessitated  the  with- 
drawal of  the  unhappies  from  Utah  Territory. 

About  4  P.M.,  as  wo  mounted,  a  furious  dust-storm  broke  over 
the  plain ;  perhaps  it  may  account  for  our  night's  mrjm'se,  which 

*  An  emigrnnt  cotnpnny  lately  followed  this  ronil,  nnd  when  olilipcd  by  flic  deotli 
of  their  eattlc  to  nban<lon  their  kit,  they  found  on  the  trump  n  liimii  of  virgin  silver, 
whieh  was  carried  to  California :  nn  exploring  pnrty  aftenvnrd  ilis(intched  failed, 
however,  to  tnnke  the  lend.  At  the  western  extremity  of  the  White  &Iuuntain.s  there 
id  a  nianimoth  eave,  of  whieh  one  mile  has  l)cen  explored :  it  is  said  to  end  in  a  prec- 
ipice, and  tlio  uDtorprifiiug  Major  Egan  l»  oa^or  to  troco  its  course. 


Chap.  XII.     JOHNSTON'S  SETTLEMENT.-A  MEAN  PLACE.  451 

a  censorious  reader  miglit  attribute  to  our  copious  libations  of 
whisky.  The  road  to  the  first  mail  station,  ''Meadow  Creek  " 
lay  over  a  sage  barren ;  we  lost  no  time  in  missing  it  by  formno' 
to  the  west.  After  hopelessly  driving  about  the  Sountiy  till  10 
r.M.  m  the  fine  cool  night,  we  knocked  at  a  hut,  and  induced  the 
owner  to  appear.  He  was  a  Dane  who  spoke  but  little  Endish 
and  his  son,  "skeert"  by  our  fierceness,  tegan  at  once  to  boo- 
hoo  At  last,  however,  we  were  guided  by  our  "foreloper"  to 
Johnston's  settlement,"  in  Eock  Valley,  and  we  entered  by  the 
unceremonious  process  of  pulling  down  the  zigzag  fences.  After 
some  trouble  we  persuaded  a  Mormon  to  quit  the  bed  in  whicb 
his  wiie  and  children  lay,  to  shake  down  for  us  sleeping-places 
among  the  cats  and  hens  on  the  floor,  and  to  provide  our  animals 
with  oats  and  hay.  Mr.Grice,the  marshal,  one  of  the  handiest 
ot  men,  who  during  his  volunteer  service  in  Mexico  had  learned 
most  things  from  carrying  a  musket  to  cooking  a  steak,  was  kind 
enough  to  prepare  our  supper,  after  which,  still  sorely  laden  with 
whisky  dying  withm  us,  we  turned  in. 

m^^c^  ^U^    i-L     J  J^  To  Meadow  Creek.     27th  September. 

rose  with  the  dawn,  the  cats,  and  the  hens,  sleep  being  im- 
possible after  the  first  blush  of  light,  and  I  proceeded  to  inspect 
the  settlement.  It  is  built  upon  the  crest  of  an  earth-wave  rising 
from  grassy  hollows ;  the  haystacks  told  of  stock,  and  the  bunch- 
grass  on  the  borders  of  the  ravines  and  nullahs  rendered  the  place 
particularly  fit  for  pasturage.  The  land  is  too  cold  for  cereals  • 
in  Its  bleak  bottoms  frost  reigns  throughout  the  year;  and  there 
IS  little  bench-ground.  The  settlement  consisted  of  half  a  dozen 
hilts,  which  swarmed,  however,  with  women  and  children  Mr 
Kennedy  introduced  us  to  a  Scotch  widow  of  mature  years  who 
gave  us  any  amount  of  butter  and  buttermilk  in  exchange  for  a 
little  tea.  She  was  but  a  lukewarm  Mormon,  declaring  polygamy 
to  be  an  abomination,  complaining  that  she  had  been  inveigled  to 
a  mean  place,  and  that  the  poor  in  Mormondom  were  exceedingly 
poor.  Yet  the  canr  y  bocfy  was  stout  and  fresh,  her  house  was 
clean  and  neat,  and  she  washed  her  children  and  her  potatoes. 

Wo  had  wandered  twenty-five  miles  out  of  the  right  road  and 
were  still  distant  fifteen  to  sixteen  from  the  first  mail  station. 
For  the  use  of  the  floor,  flics,  and  pcrmissiuu  to  boil  water  we 
paid  our  taciturn  Mormon  $2,  and  at  noon,  a  little  before  the 
bunsting  of  the  dusty  storm-gusts,  which  reproduced  the  horrors 
of  Sindh,  we  found  ourselves  once  more  in  the  saddle  and  the  am- 
bulance. Wc  passed,  by  a  cattle  track  on  rolling  ground  dotted 
with  sago  and  grcascwood,  which  sheltered  hosts  of  jackass-rab- 
bits, and  the  sego  with  its  beautiful  lily-like  flowers.  After  cross- 
ing sundry  nullahs  and  pitch-holes  with  deep  and  ruggtxl  sides 
we  made  the  mail  station  at  the  west  end  of  Eush  Vallev  which 
13  about  twenty  miles  distant  from  Camp  Floyd.    The  little  green 


■'    i  t 


ifllri 


452 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


bottom,  with  its  rush-bordered  sinking  spring,  is  called  by  Captain 
Simpson  "  Meadow  Creek."  We  passed  a  pleasant  day  in  re- 
volver practice  with  Al.  Huntington,  the  renowned  brother  of 
Lot,  who  had  lately  bolted  to  South  California,  in  attempts  at  rab- 
bit-shooting— the  beasts  became  very  wild  in  the  evening— and 
in  dining  on  an  antelope  which  a  youth  had  ridden  down  and 
pistoled.  With  the  assistance  of  the  station-master,  Mr.  Faust, 
a  civil  and  communicative  man,  who  added  a  knowledge  of  books 
and  drugs  to  the  local  history,  I  compiled  an  account  of  the  sev- 
eral lines  of  communication  between  Great  Salt  Lake  City  and 
California. 

Three  main  roads  connect  the  land  of  the  Saints  with  the  El 
Dorado  of  the  West — the  northern,  the  central,  and  the  southern. 

The  northern  road  rounds  the  upper  end  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  and  falls  into  the  valleys  of  the  Humboldt  and  Carson  Riv- 
ers. ,  It  was  explored  in  1845  by  Colonel  Frdmont,*  who,  when 
passing  over  the  seventy  waterless  miles  of  the  western,  a  contin- 
uation of  the  eastern  desert,  lost  ten  mules  and  several  horses. 
The  "  first  overland  trip"  was  followed  in  1846  by  a  party  of  em- 
igrants under  a  Mr.  Hastings,  who  gave  his  name  to  the  "cut-off" 
which  has  materially  shortened  the  distance.  The  road  has  been 
carefully  described  in  Kelly's  California,  in  Horn's  "Overland 
Guide,"  and  by  M.  Remy.  It  is  still,  despite  its  length,  preferred 
by  travelers,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  grass  and  water: 
moreover,  there  are  now  but  two  short  stretches  of  desert. 

The  southern  road,  vid  Fillmore  and  San  Bernardino,  to  San 
Pedro,  where  the  traveler  can  embark  for  San  Francisco,  is  long 
and  tedious;  water  is  found  at  thirty-mile  distances;  there  are 
three  deserts ;  and  bunch  and  other  grasses  arc  not  plentiful.  It 
has  one  great  merit,  namely,  that  of  being  rarely  snowed  up,  ex- 
cept between  the  Rio  Virgen  and  Great  Salt  Lake  City  :  the  best 
traveling  is  in  Spring,  when  the  melting  snows  from  the  eastern 
hills  fill  the  rivulets.     This  route  has  been  traveled  over  by 

*  Explored  is  used  in  a  modified  sense.  Every  foot  of  pround  passed  over  by 
Colonel  Fremont  was  perfectly  well  known  to  the  old  trappers  and  traders,  as  the 
interior  of  Africa  to  the  Arab  and  Portuguese  pombeiros.  But  this  fact  takes  noth- 
ing away  from  the  honors  of  the  man  who  flret  surveyed  and  scientifically  observed 
the  country.  Among  those  who  preceded  Colonel  Fremont,  the  most  remarkable, 
prhaps,  was  Sylvester  Pattie,  a  Virginian,  who,  having  lost  his  wife  in  his  adopted 
homo  on  the  Missouri,  resolved  to  trap  ujwn  and  to  trace  out  the  head-waters  of  the 
Yellow  Hiver.  The  little  company  of  five  persons,  among  whom  were  I'attie  and  his 
son,  set  out  on  the  20th  of  June,  1824,  and  on  the  22d  of  August  arrived  at  the  head- 
waters of  the  Platte,  where  they  found  General  Pratt  proceeding  toward  Santa  Fc'. 
Pattie,  in  command  of  1 IG  men,  crossed  the  dividing  ridge,  descended  into  the  valley 
of  the  Kio  Grand  del  Norto,  entered  Santa  Fd,  and  trapped  on  the  Gila  Piver.  The 
party  broke  up  on  the  27th  of  Noveml>er,  1826,  when  Pattie,  accompanied  by  his  son 
and  six  others,  descended  the  Colorado,  and,  after  incredible  hardships,  rciiched  the 
Htspnno- American  missions,  where  tliey  were  received  with  the  customary  inhuman- 
ity. The  father  died  in  durance  vile;  the  son,  after  being  released  and  vaccinated 
at  San  Diego,  reached  San  Francisco,  -vhencc  ho  returneil  homo  vid  Vera  Cruz  and 
New  Orleans,  after  an  absence  of  six  years.  The  whole  talc  is  well  told  in  "Har- 
per's Magazine." 


Chap.  XII. 


PIONEER  EXPLORERS. 


458 


Messrs.  Chandless  and  Eemy,  who  have  well  described  it  in  their 
•  picturesque  pages.  I  add  a  few  notes,  collected  from  men  who 
have  ridden  over  the  ground  for  several  years,  concerning  the 
stations :  the  information,  however,  it  will  be  observed,  is  merely 
hearsay.*  ■^ 

The  central  route  is  called  Egan's  by  the  Mormons,  Simpson's 
by  the  Gentiles.  Mr.  or  Major  Howard  Egan  is  a  Saint  and  well- 
known  guide,  an  indefatigable  mountaineer,  who  for  some  time 
drove  stock  to  California  in  the  employ  of  Messrs.  Livingston,  and 
who  afterward  became  mail-agent  under  Messrs.  Chorpenning  and 
Eussell.  On  one  occasion  he  made  the  distancs  in  twelve  days, 
and  he  daims  to  have  explored  the  present  post-office  route  be- 
tween 1850  and  the  winter  of  1857-1858.  Captain  J.  H.  Simp- 
son, of  the  federal  army,  whose  itinerary  is  given  in  Appendix  I., 
followed  between  May  and  June,  1859.  He  traveled  along  Egan's 
path,  with  a  few  unimportant  deviations,  for  300  miles,  and  left  it 
ten  miles  west  of  Euby  Valley,  trending  southward  to  the  suite 
of  the  Carson  Eiver.  On  his  return  he  pursued  a  more  southerly 
line,  and  fell  into  Egan's  route  about  thirty  miles  west  of  Camp 
Floyd.  The  employes  of  the  route  prefer  Egan's  line,  declarino- 
that  on  Simpson's  there  is  little  grass,  that  the  springs  are  mere 
fiumaras  of  melted  snow,  and  that  the  wells  are  waterless.  Bad 
however,  is  the  best,  as  the  following  pages  will,  I  think,  prove.  ' 

To  Tophet.     2m  September. 

On  a  cool  and  cloudy  morning,  which  at  10  A.M.  changed  into 
a  clear  sunny  day,  we  set  out,  after  paying  $3  for  three  feeds,  to 
make  the  second  station.  Our  road  lay  over  the  seven  miles  of 
plain  that  ended  Eush  Valley :  we  saw  few  rabbits,  and  the  sole 
vegetation  was  stunted  sage.    Ensued  a  rough  divide,  stony  and 

*  The  distance  from  Great  Salt  Lake  Ci'.y  to  San  Bernardino  is,  nccordinjj  to  my 
informant,  about  750  miles,  and  has  been  accomplished  in  fourteen  days.  The  road 
runs  through  Provo  to  Salt  Cruz,  formed  by  a  desert  of  50-60  miles,  and  making 
Sevier  Itiver  the  half-way  point  to  the  capital.  At  Corn  Creek  is  an  Indian  farm 
and  Weaver  is  G4  miles  from  Fillmore.  Cedar  Spring  is  the  entrance  to  Para  van 
Valley,  where  as  early  as  1800  there  was  a  fort  and  a  settlement.  Then  comes 
Fdlmore,  the  territorial  capital,  and  9G  miles  afterward  it  passes  through  Paravan 
City  in  Little  Salt  Lake  Valley.  At  Cold  Creek  it  forks,  the  central  road  being  that 
mostly  preferred.  Tiie  next  station  is  Mountain  Meadows,  the  Southern  Rim  of  the 
Bnsm,  celebrated  for  its  massacre ;  ensues  the  Santa  Clara  River,  and  thence  a  total 
of  70  miles,  divided  into  several  stages,  lead  to  the  Rio  Virgen.  After  following  tho 
latter  for  20-30  miles,  tho  path  crosses  tho  divide  of  Muddy  River,  and  entei-s  a  des- 
ert 55-07  miles  in  breadth  leading  to  Las  Vcgns.  Thirty  miles  beyond  that  point 
lies  a  pretty  water  called  "Mountain  Springs,"  a  preliminary  to  ''Dry  Lake,"  a 
second  desert  40-45  miles  broad,  and  ending  at  an  alkaline  water  called  Kingston 
Springs.  The  third  desert,  40  miles  broad,  leads  to  a  post  established  for  tho  pro- 
tection of  emigrants,  and  called  Bitter  or  Bidder's  Springs,  115  miles  from  Las 
Vegas.  The  next  stage  of  35  is  to  tho  Indian  River,  a  tributary  of  tho  Colorado, 
whence  there  is  another  military  establishment :  the  land  is  now  Califomian.  Thence 
following  and  crossing  the  course  of  the  stream,  the  traveler  sights  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. After  50  miles  down  the  Mohave  Kanyon  is  .'^an  Bernardino,  once  a  thriving 
Mormon  settlement,  !)0  miles  from  San  Pedro  and  120  from  San  Diego,  where  water 
conveyauco  is  found  to  San  Francisco. 


454 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


II 


dusty,  witli  caliues  and  pitch-holes :  it  is  known  by  the  name  of 
General  Johnston's  Pass.  The  hills  above  it  are  gray  and  bald- 
headed,  a  few  bristles  of  black  cedar  protruding  from  their  breasts, 
and  the  land  wears  an  uninhabitable  look.  Afler  two  miles  of 
toil  we  halted  near  the  ruins  of  an  old  station.  On  the  right  side 
of  the  road  was  a  spring  half  way  up  the  hill :  three  holes  lay 
full  of  slightly  alkaline  water,  and  the  surplus  flowed  off  in  a 
black  bed  of  vegetable  mud,  which  is  often  dry  in  spring  and 
summer.  At  "  Point  Look-out,"  near  the  counterslope  of  the  di- 
vide, we  left  on  the  south  Simpson's  route,  and  learned  by  a  sign- 
post that  the  distance  to  Carson  is  533  miles.  The  pass  led  to 
Skull  Valley,  of  ominous  sound.  According  to  some,  the  name 
is  derived  from  the  remains  of  Indians  which  are  found  scattered 
about  a  fine  spring  in  the  southern  parts.  Others  declare  that  the 
mortal  remains  of  bison  here  lie  Hkc  pavement-stones  or  cannon 
balls  in  the  Crimean  Valley  of  Death.  Skull  Valley  stretches 
nearly  southwest  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  plain,  with  which  it  com- 
municates, and  its  drainage,  as  in  these  parts  generally,  feeds  the 
lake.  Passing  out  of  Skull  Valley,  we  crossed  the  cahues  and 
pitch-holes  of  a  broad  bench  which  rose  above  the  edge  of  the , 
desert,  and  after  seventeen  miles  beyond  the  Pass  reached  the 
station  which  Mormons  call  Egan's  Springs,  anti-Mormons  Simp- 
son's Springs,  and  Gentiles  Lost  Springs. 

Standing  upon  the  edge  of  the  bench,  I  could  see  the  Tophet 
in  prospect  for  us  till  Carson  Valley :  a  road  narrowing  in  per- 
spective to  a  point  spanned  its  grisly  length,  awfully  long,  and 
the  next  mail  station  had  shrunk  to  a  little  black  knob.  All  was 
desert :  the  bottom  could  no  longer  be  called  basin  or  valley :  it 
was  a  thin  fine  silt,  thirsty  dust  in  the  dry  season,  and  putty-like 
mud  in  the  spring  and  autumnal  rains.  The  hair  of  this  unlove- 
ly skin  was  sage  and  greasewood :  it  was  wartcd  with  sand-heaps ; 
in  places  mottled  with  bald  and  horrid  patches  of  salt  soil,  while 
in  others  minute  crystals  of  salt,  glistenmg  like  diamond-dust  in 
the  sunlight,  covered  tracts  of  moist  and  oo?;y  mud.  Before  us, 
but  a  little  to  the  right  or  north,  and  nearly  due  west  of  Camp 
Floyd,  rose  Granite  Mountain,  a  rough  and  jagged  spine  or  hog's- 
back,  inhabited  only  by  wolves  and  antelopes,  hares  and  squirrels, 
grasshoppers,  and  occasionally  an  Indian  family.  Small  sweet 
springs  are  found  near  its  northern  and  southern  points.  The 
tradition  of  the  country  declares  it  to  be  rich  in  gold,  which,  how- 
ever, no  one  dares  to  dig.  Our  road  is  about  to  round  the  south- 
ern extremity,  wheeling  successively  S.  and  S.E.,  then  W.  and 
N.W.,  then  g.W.  and  S.E.,  and  S.W.  and  N.W.— in  fact,  round 
three  quarters  of  the  compass;  and  for  three  mortal  days  we  shall 
sight  its  ugly  frowning  form.  A  direct  passage  leads  between  it 
and  the  corresponding  point  of  the  southern  hill :  we  contemplate, 
through  the  gap,  a  blue  ridge  where  lies  "Willow-Spring  Station, 
the  destination  of  our  party  after  to-morrow ;  but  the  straight  line 


Chap,  XII. 


THE  GREAT  DESERT,— OUR  PARTY, 


455 


which  saves  so  much  distance  is  closed  by  bogs  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  and  the  size  of  the  wild  sage  would  impede  our 
wagon-wheels. 

The  great  desert  of  Utah  Territory  extends  in  length  about  300 
miles  along  the  western  side  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  Its  breadth 
varies :  a  little  farther  south  it  can  not  be  crossed,  the  water,  oven 
where  not  poisonous,  being  insufl&cient.  The  formation  is  of  bot- 
toms like  that  described  above,  bench-lands,  with  the  usual  paral- 
lel and  perfectly  horizontal  water-lines,  leaving  regular  steps,  as 
the  sea  settled  down,  b;^  the  gradual  upheaval  of  the  land.  They 
mark  its  former  elevation  upon  the  sides  of  the  many  detached 
ridges  trending  mostly  K  and  S,  Like  the  rim  of  the  Basin, 
these  hills  are  not  a  single  continuous  mountain  range  which 
might  be  flanked,  but  a  series  of  disconnected  protrusions  above 
the  general  level  of  the  land.  A  paying  railway  through  this 
country  is  as  likely  as  a  profitable  canal  through  the  Isthmus  of 
Suez :  the  obstacles  must  be  struck  at  right  angles,  with  such  as- 
sistance as  the  rough  kanyons  and  the  ravines  of  various  levels 
afford. 

We  are  now  in  a  country  dangerous  to  stock.  It  is  a  kind  of 
central  point,  where  Pavant,  Gosh  Yuta  (popularly  called  Gosh 
Ute),  and  Panak  (Bannacks)  meet.  Watches,  therefore,  were  told 
off  for  the  night.  Next  morning,  however,  it  was  found  that  all 
had  stood  on  guard  with  unloaded  guns. 

To  Fish  Springs.    29th  September. 

At  Lost  Springs  the  party  was  mustered.  The  following  was 
found  to  be  the  material.  T'he  Eas  Kafilah  was  one  Kennedy,  an 
Irishman,  whose  brogue,  doubly  Dublin,  sounded  startlingly  in  the 
Great  American  Desert.  On  a  late  trip  he  had  been  victimized 
by  Indians.  The  savages  had  driven  off  two  of  his  horses  into  a 
kanyon  within  sight  of  the  Deep-Creek  Station.  In  the  hurry  of 
pursuit  he  spurred  up  the  ravine,  followed  by  a  friend,  when, 
sighting  jerked  meat,  his  own  property,  upon  the  trees,  he  gave 
the  word  sauve  qui  pent.  As  they  whirled  their  horses  the  Yutas 
rushed  down  the  hill  to  intercept  them  at  the  mouth  of  the  gorge, 
calling  them  in  a  loud  voice  dogs  and  squaws,  and  firing  sundry 
shots,  which  killed  Kennedy's  horse  and  pierced  his  right  arm. 
Most  men,  though  they  jest  at  scars  before  feeling  a  wound,  are 
temporarily  cowed  by  an  infliction  of  the  kind,  and  of  that  order 
was  the  good  Kennedy. 

The  next  was  an  excellent  traveler,  by  name  Howard.  On  the 
road  between  Great  Salt  Lake  City  and  Camp  Floyd  I  saw  two 
men,  who  addressed  me  as  Mr.  Kennedy  the  boss,  and,  finding  out 
their  mistake,  followed  us  to  the  place  of  rendezvous.  The  par- 
ty, with  one  eye  gray  and  the  other  black,  mounted  upon  a  miser- 
able pony,  was  an  American.  After  a  spell  at  the  gold  diggings 
of  California  he  had  revisited  the  States,  and  he  now  wished  to 


• 


* 


.t'-'iiiii^ 


456 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


return  to  his  adopted  country  without  loss  of  time.  He  was  a 
hardy,  fine-tempered  fellow,  exceedingly  skilled  in  driving  stock. 
His  companion  was  a  Frenchman  and  ex-Zouave,  who,  for  reasons 
best  known  to  himself,  declared  that  he  came  from  Cuba,  and  that 
he  had  forgotten  every  word  of  Spanish.  Like  foreigners  among 
Anglo-Scandinavians  generally,  the  poor  devil  fared  badly.  He 
could  not  hold  his  own.  With  the  most  labor,  he  had  the  worst 
of  every  thing.  He  felt  himseli  mal  place,  and  before  the  end  of 
the  journey  he  slunk  away. 

At  Lost  Springs  we  were  joined  by  two  Mormon  fugitives, 
"pilgrims  of  love,"  who  had,  it  was  said,  secretly  left  the  city  at 
night,  fearing  the  consequences  of  having  "  loved  not  wisely,  but 

too  well."     The  first  of  the  Lotharios  was  a  Mr.  E ,  an  English 

farrier-blacksmith,  mounted  upon  an  excellent  horse  and  leading 
another.  He  soon  took  offense  at  our  slow  rate  of  progress,  and, 
afflicted  by  the  thought  that  the  avenger  was  behind  him,  left  us 
at  Deep  Creek,  and  "  made  tracks"  to  Carson  City  in  ten  days, 
with  two  horses  and  a  total  traveling  kit  of  two  blankets.  We 
traced  him  to  California  by  the  trail  of  falsehoods  which  he  left 

on  the  road.     His  comrade,  Mr.  A ,  a  New  Englander,  was 

also  an  apostate  Mormon,  a  youth  of  good  family  and  liberal  edu- 
cation, who,  after  ruining  himself  by  city  sites  and  copper  mines 
on  Lake  Superior,  had  permanently  compromised  himself  with  so- 
ciety by  becoming  a  Saint.  Also  a  Lothario,  he  had  made  his  es- 
cape, and  he  proved  himself  a  good  and  useful  member  of  society. 
I  could  not  but  admire  the  acuteness  of  both  these  youths,  who, 
flying  from  justice,  had  placed  themselves  under  the  protection 
of  a  judge.  They  reminded  me  of  a  debtor  friend  who  found 
himself  secure  from  the  bailiff  only  within  the  walls  of  Spike  Isl- 
and or  Belvidere  Place,  Southwark. 

Another  notable  of  the  party  was  an  apostate  Jew  and  soidisant 
apostate  Mormon  who  answered  to  the  name  of  liose.  He  had 
served  as  missionary  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  he  spoke  Ka- 
naka like  English.  His  features  were  those  which  Mr.  Thackeray 
loves  to  delineate ;  his  accents  those  which  Kobson  delights  to  im- 
itate. He  denied  his  connection  with  the  Hebrews.  He  proved 
it  by  eating  more,  by  driving  a  better  bargain,  by  doing  less  work 
than  any  of  the  party.  It  was  truly  refreshing  to  meet  this  son 
of  old  Houndsditch  in  the  land  of  the  Saints,  under  the  shadow 
of  New  Zion,  and  the  only  drawback  to  our  enjoyment  was  the 
general  suspicion  that  the  honorable  name  of  apostate  covered  the 
less  respectable  calling  of  spy.  He  contrasted  strongly  with  Jim 
Gilston  of  Illinois,  a  lath-like  specimen  of  humanity,  some  six  feet 
four  in  length — a  perfect  specimen  of  the  Indianized  white,  long 
hair,  sun-tanned,  and  hatchet-faced ;  running  like  an  ostrich,  yelp- 
ing like  a  savage,  and  ready  to  take  scalp  at  the  first  provocation. 
He  could  not  refrain,  as  the  end  of  the  journey  drew  nigh,  from 
deserting  without  paying  his  passage.    Mr.  Colvillc,  a  most  de- 


Chap.  XII. 


"GENTLE  ANNIE."— "YOU  BET.' 


457 


termined  Yankee,  far  advanced  in  years,  was  equally  remarkable. 
He  had  $90  in  his  pocket.  He  shivered  for  want  of  a  blanket, 
and  he  lived  on  hard  bread,  bacon,  and  tea,  of  which  no  man  was 
ever  seen  to  partake.  Such  were  the  seven  "  free  men,"  the  inde- 
pendent traders  of  the  company.  There  were  also  six  "broths  of 
boys,"  who  paid  small  sums  up  to  $40  for  the  benefit  of  our  es- 
cort, and  who  were  expected  to  drive  and  to  do  general  work. 
Traveling  soon  makes  friends.  No  illusions  of  amicitia,  however, 
could  blind  my  eyes  to  the  danger  of  entering  an  Indian  country 
with  such  an  escort.  Untried  men  for  the  most  part,  they  would 
have  discharged  their  weapons  in  the  air  and  fled  at  the  whoop 
of  an  Indian,  all  of  them,  including  Jake  the  Shoshonee,  who  had 
been  permitted  to  accompany  us  as  guide,  and  excepting  our 
stanch  ones,  Howard,  "Billy"  the  colt,  and  "Brandy"  the  dog. 

The  station  was  thrown  somewhat  into  confusion  by  the  pres- 
ence of  a  petticoat,  an  article  whi  ih  in  these  regions  never  fails  to 
attract  presents  of  revolvers  and  sides  of  bacon.  "  Gentle  Annie," 
attended  by  three  followers,  was  passing  in  an  ambulance  from 
California  to  Denver  City,  where  her  "  friend"  was.  To  most  of 
my  companions'  inquiries  about  old  acquaintances  in  California, 
she  replied,  in  "Western  phrase,  that  the  individual  subject  of  their 
solicitude  had  "got  to  git  up  and  git,"  which  means  that  he  had 
found  change  of  air  and  scene  advisable.  Most  of  her  sentences 
ended  with  a  "you  ie^,"  even  under  circumstances  where  such 
operation  would  have  been  quite  uncalled  for.    So  it  is  related 

that  when  Dr.  P ,  of  Camp  Floyd,  was  attending  Mrs.  A'. B.C. 

at  a  most  critical  time,  he  asked  her  tenderly,  "  Do  you  suffer 
much,  Mrs.  C?"  to  which  the  new  matron  replied,  "You  betP' 

We  set  out  about  noon,  on  a  day  hot  as  midsummer  by  con- 
trast with  the  preceding  nights,  for  a  long  ppell  of  nearly  fiftv 
miles.  Shortly  after  leaving  the  station  the  road  forks.  The 
left-hand  path  leads  to  a  grassy  spring  in  a  dwarf  kanyon  near 
the  southern  or  upper  part  of  c  river  bottom,  where  emigrants 
are  fond  of  camping.  The  hills  scattered  around  the  basin  were 
of  a  dark  metallic  stone,  sunburnt  to  chocolate.  The  strata  were 
highly  tilted  up  and  the  water-lines  distinctlv  drawn.  After  eight 
miles  we  descended  into  the  yellow  silty  bed  of  a  bald  and  barren 
fiumara,  which  was  not  less  than  a  mile  broad.  The  good  judge 
sighed  when  he  contrasted  it  with  Monongahela,  the  "river  of  the 
falling  banks."  It  flows  northward,  and  sinks  near  the  western 
edge  of  the  lake.  At  times  it  runs  three  feet  of  water.  The  hills 
around  arc  white-capped  throughout  the  winter,  but  snow  seldom 
lies  more  than  a  week  in  the  bottoms. 

After  twenty  miles  over  the  barren  plain  we  reached,  about 
sunset,  the  station  at  the  foot  of  the  Dugway.  It  was  a  mere 
"  dug-out"— a  hole  four  feet  deep,  roofed  over  with  split  cedar 
trunks,  and  provided  with  a  rude  adobe  chimney.  The  tenants 
were  two  rough  young  fellows— station-master  and  express  rider 


h  I 


468 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap,  XH. 


II 


—  with  their  friend,  an  English  bull-dog.  One  of  them  had 
amused  himself  by  decorating  the  sides  of  the  habitation  with 
niches  and  Egyptian  heads.  Rude  art  seems  instinctively  to  take 
that  form  which  it  wears  on  the  banks  of  Nilus,  and  should  some 
Professor  Rafinesque  discover  these  traces  of  the  aborigines  after 
a  sepulture  of  a  century,  thoy  will  furnish  materials  for  a  rich 
chapter  on  anti-Columbian  immigration.  Water  is  brought  to 
the  station  in  casks.  The  youths  believe  that  some  seven  miles 
north  of  the  "  Dugway"  there  is  a  spring,  which  the  Indians,  after 
the  fashion  of  that  folk,  sensibly  conceal  from  the  whites.  Three 
wells  have  been  sunk  near  the  station.  Two  soon  led  to  rock; 
the  third  has  descended  120  feet,  but  is  still  bone  dry.  It  passes 
first  through  a  layer  of  surface  silt,  then  through  three  or  four 
feet  of  loose,  friable,  fossillcss,  chalky  lime,  which,  when  slaked, 
softened,  and,  mixed  with  sand,  is  used  as  mortar.  The  lowest 
strata  are  of  quartz  gravel,  forming  in  the  deeper  parts  a  hard 
conglomerate.  The  workmen  complained  greatly  of  the  increas- 
ing heat  as  they  descend.  Gold  now  becomes  uppermost  in  man's 
mmd.  The  youths,  seeing  me  handle  the  rubbish,  at  once  asked 
nje  if  I  was  prospecting  for  gold.  I 

After  roughly  supping  we  set  out,  with  a  fine  round  moon  high 
in  the  skies,  to  ascend  the  "  Dugwav  Pass"  by  a  rough  dusty  road 
winding  round  the  shoulder  of  a  hill,  through  which  a  fiumara 
has  burst  its  way.  Like  other  Utah  mountains,  the  highest  third 
rises  suddenly  from  a  comparatively  gradual  incline,  a  sore  for- 
matioti  for  cattle,  requiring  draught  to  be  at  least  doubled.  Ar- 
riving on  the  summit,  wo  sat  down,  while  our  mules  returned  to 
help  the  baggage- wagons,  and  amused  ourselves  with  the  strange 
aspect  of  the  scene.  To  the  north,  or  before  us,  and  far  below, 
lay  a  long  broad  stretch,  white  aa  snow  —  the  Saleratus  Desert, 
west  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  wore  a  grisly  aspect  in  the  sil- 
very light  of  the  moon.  Behind  us  was  the  brown  plain,  sparse- 
ly dotted  with  shadows,  and  dewless  in  the  evening  as  in  the 
morning.  As  the  party  ascended  the  summit  with  much  noisy 
shouting,  they  formed  a  pictnrcsoue  group— the  well-bred  horses 
wandering  to  graze,  the  white-tilted  wagons  with  their  panting 
mules,  and  the  men  in  felt  capotes  and  huge  leather  Icggins.  In 
honor  of  our  good  star  wbicli  had  preserved  every  hoof  from  ac- 
cident, we  "  liquored  up"  on  that  summit,  and  then  began  the  de- 
scent 

Having  reached  the  plain,  the  road  ran  for  eight  miles  over  a 
broken  surface,  with  severe  pitch-holes  and  wagon-tracks  which 
have  lasted  many  a  month ;  it  then  forked.  The  left,  which  is 
about  six  miles  the  longer  of  the  two,  must  be  tokm  after  rains, 
and  leads  to  the  Devil's  Hole,  a  curious  formation  in  a  bcncli  un- 
der "  High  Mountain,"  about  ninety  miles  from  Camp  Floyd,  and 
south,  with  a  little  westing,  of  the  (}rcat  Salt  Lake.  The  Ilolo  is 
J :i._,i  «..  .,i.»»n,1  i;i'«  ♦Vio  fpiiHfriirin  nf  nn  invo.rtcd  cono.  fortv 

UCSUiliJVt^   as  cuapv-J  iJr-»V    fM^  -- — — — ■ -        r  v 


Chap.  XII. 


THE  DEVIL'S  HOLE.— SLOUGHS. 


459 


feet  in  diameter  above,  twelve  to  fifteen  below.  As  regards  the 
depth,  four  lariats  of  forty  feet  each,  and  a  line  at  the  end,  did 
not,  it  is  said,  reach  the  bottom.  Captain  Simpson  describes  the 
water  as  brackish.  The  drivers  declare  it  to  be  half  salt.  The 
Devil's  Hole  is  popularly  supposed  to  be  an  air-vent  or  shaft 
communicating  with  the  waters  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  in  their 
subterraneous  journey  to  the  sea  (Pacific  Ocean).  An  object  cast 
into  it,  thev  say,  is  sucked  down  and  disappears ;  hence,  if  true, 
probably  the  theory. 

We  chose  the  shorter  cut,  and,  after  eight  miles,  rounded  Mount- 
ain Point,  the  end  of  a  dark  brown  butte  falling  into  the  plain. 
Opposite  us  and  under  the  western  hills,  which  were  distant  about 
two  miles,  lay  the  station,  but  we  wore  compelled  to  double,  for 
twelve  miles,  the  intervening  slough,  which  no  horse  can  cross 
without  being  mired.  The  road  hugged  the  foot  of  the  hills  at 
the  edge  of  the  saleratus  basin,  which  looked  like  a  furrowed  field 
in  which  snow  still  lingers.  In  places,  warts  of  earth  tufted  with 
greasewood  emerged  from  hard,  flaky,  curling  silt-cakes ;  in  oth- 
ers, the  salt  frosted  out  of  the  damp  black  earm  like  the  miniature 
sugar-plums  upon  chocolate  bonbons.  We  then  fell  into  a  saline 
resembling  freshly-fallen  snow.  The  whiteness  changes  to  a  slaty 
blue,  like  a  frozen  pond  when  the  water  still  underlies  it ;  and, 
to  make  the  delusion  perfect,  the  black  rutted  path  looked  as  if 
lately  cut  out  after  a  snow-storm.  Weird  forms  appeared  in  the 
moonlight.  A  line  of  sand-heaps  became  a  row  of  railroad  cars ; 
a  raised  bench  was  mistaken  for  a  paling ;  and  the  bushes  were 
any  thing  between  a  cow  and  an  Indian.  This  part  of  the  road 
must  be  terrible  in  winter ;  even  in  the  fine  season  men  are  often 
compelled  to  unpack  half  a  dozen  times. 

After  ascending  some  sand-hills  we  halted  for  the  party  to  form 
up  in  case  of  accident,  and  Mr.  Kennedy  proceeded  to  inspect 
wnilo  wo  prepared  for  the  worst  part  of  the  stage — the  sloughs. 
Theso  are  three  in  number,  one  of  twenty  and  the  two  others  of 
100  ^  ards  in  length.  The  tule,  tho  bayonet-grass,  and  the  tall 
rushes  enable  animals  to  pass  safelv  over  tho  deep  slushy  mud, 
but  when  tho  vegetation  is  well  trodden  down,  horses  arc  in  dan- 
ger of  being  permanentlv  mired.  Tho  principal  inconvenience  to 
man  is  tho  infectious  odor  of  tho  foul  swamps.  Our  cattle  were 
mad  with  thirst;  however,  they  crossed  tho  three  sloughs  suc- 
cessfully, rlthough  somo  had  nearly  made  Dixie's  Land  in  the 
second. 

Beyond  tho  sloughs  t^o  ascended  a  bench,  and  traveled  on  an 
improved  road.  Wo  passed  sundry  circular  ponds  garnished  with 
rush ;  tho  water  is  sulphury,  and,  according  to  the  season,  is  warm, 
hot,  or  cold.  Somo  of  these  dobord,  and  send  forth  what  tho  So- 
mnl  would  call  Biva  Gora,  "night-flowing  streams."  About  8 
A.M.,  cramped  with  cold,  we  sighted  tho  station,  and  gavo  tlio 


-F'   J'-t' 


J.X.  ivuiitii 


tXt  V     D\/XfJ 


TXT  VVl     MC  . 


iifis  cti\/iiii 


460 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIL 


ate  supper  and  the  weak  went  to  bed,  thus  ending  a  somewhat 
fatiguing  day. 

To  Willow  Creek.     30M  September. 

On  this  line  there  are  two  kinds  of  stations — the  mail  station, 
where  there  is  an  agent  in  charge  of  five  or  six  "boys,"  and  the 
express  station — every  second — where  there  is  only  a  master  and 
an  express  rider.  The  boss  receives  $50 — $75  per  mensem,  the 
boy  §35.  It  is  a  hard  life,  setting  aside  the  chance  of  death — no 
less  than  three  murders  have  been  committed  by  the  Indians  dur- 
ing this  year — the  work  is  severe ;  the  diet  is  sometimes  reduced 
to  wolf-mutton,  or  a  little  boiled  wheat  and  rye,  and  the  drink 
to  brackish  water;  a  pound  of  tea  comes,  occasionally,  but  the 
droughty  souls  arc  always  "  out"  of  whisky  and  tobacco.  At 
"Fish  Springs,"  where  there  is  little  danger  of  savages,  two  men 
bad  charge  of  the  ten  horses  and  mules ;  one  of  these  was  a  Ger- 
man Swiss  from  near  Schaffhausen,  who  had  been  digging  for 
gold  to  little  purpose  in  California. 

A  clear  cool  morning  succeeding  the  cold  night  aroused  us  be- 
times. Nature  had  provided  an  ample  supply  of  warm  water, 
though  slightly  sulphury,  in  the  neighboring  pot-holes,  and  at  a 
little  distance  from  the  station  was  one  conveniently  cool.  The 
fish  from  which  the  formation  derives  its  name  is  a  perch-like 
species,  easily  caught  on  a  cloudy  day.  The  men,  like  the  citi- 
zens of  Suez,  accustom  themselves  to  the  "rotten  water,"  as  stran- 
gers call  it,  and  hardly  relish  the  purer  supplies  of  Simpson's 
Springs  or  Willow  Springs:  they  might  have  built  the  station 
about  one  mile  north,  near  a  natural  well  of  good  cool  water,  but 
apparently  they  prefer  the  warm  bad. 

The  saleratus  valley  looked  more  curious  in  daylight  than  in 
moonlight.  The  vegetation  was  in  regular  scale;  smallest,  the 
rich  bunch-grass  on  the  benches;  then  the  greasewood  and  the 
artemisia,  wncre  the  latter  can  grow ;  and  largest  of  all,  tlio  dwarf 
cedar.  All  was  of  lively  hue,  the  herbage  bright  red,  yellow,  and 
sometimes  green,  the  shrubs  were  gray  and  glaucous,  the  cedars 
almost  blacK,  and  the  rim  of  hills  blue-brown  and  blue.  We  had 
ample  time  to  contemplate  these  curiosities,  for  Kennedy,  whoso 
wits,  like  those  of  Iliranyaka,  the  mouse,  were  mightily  sharpen- 
ed by  the  possession  of  wealth,  had  sat  up  all  night,  and  wanted  a 
longer  sleep  in  the  morning.  After  a  breakfast  which  the  water 
rendered  truly  detestable,  wc  hitched  up  about  10  A.M.,  and  set 
out  ill  route  for  Willow  Springs. 

About  an  hour  after  our  departure  wc  met  the  party  command- 
ed by  Lieutenant  Weed,  two  subaltern  officers,  ninety  dragooiis, 
au J  ten  wagons ;  thoy  Ifad  beoTi  in  the  field  since  May,  and  had 
done  gooil  service  against  the  Gosh  Y  uttis.  We  halted  and  "  lici- 
uored  up,"  and,  after  American  fa.shion,  talked  politics  in  the 
wilderness.  Half  an  hour  then  led  us  to  what  wc  christened 
"  Kennedy's  Hole,"  another  circular  bowl,  girt  with  grass  and 


Chat.  XII. 


THE  DESERT  VIEW.— SPORTING. 


461 


rush  m  .he  plain  under  a  dark  brown  rock,  with  black  bands  and 
scatters  of  stone.  A  short  distance  beyond,  and  also  on  the  right 
of  the  road,  lay  the  "Poison  Springs,"  in  a  rushy  bed:  the  water 
was  temptingly  ciear,  but  the  bleached  bones  of  many  a  quadra- 
ped  skeleton  bade  us  beware  of  it.  After  turning  a  point  we  saw 
m  front  a  swamp,  the  counterpart  of  what  met  our  eyes  last  ni"-ht- 
it  renewed  also  the  necessity  of  rounding  it  by  a  lontr  southerly 
sweep.  The  scenery  was  that  of  the  Takhashshua  near  Zayla  or 
the  delicious  land  behind  Aden,  the  Arabian  sea-board.  Sand- 
heaps— the  only  dry  spots  after  rain— fixed  by  tufts  of  metallic 
green  salsol»,  and  guarded  from  the  desert  wind  by  rusty  cane- 
grass,  emerged  from  the  wet  and  oozy  plain,  in  which  the  mules 
often  sank  to  the  fetlock.  The  unique  and  snowy  floor  of  thin 
nitre,  bluish  where  deliquescent,  was  here  solid  as  a  sheet  of  ice- 
there  a  net-work  of  little  ridges,  as  if  the  salt  had  expanded  by 
crystallization,  with  regular  furrows  worked  by  rain.  After  heavy 
showers  it  becomes  a  soft,  slippery,  tenacious,  and  slushy  mud, 
that  rendera  trave  ing  exceeding  laborious;  the  glare  is  blinding 
by  day,  and  at  night  the  refrigerating  properties  of  the  salt  render 
the  wind  bitterly  cold,  even  when  the  mercury  stands  at  50°  F. 

We  halted  to  bait  at  the  half-way  house,  the  fork  of  the  road 
leading  to  Pleasant  Valley,  an  unpleasant  place,  so  called  because 
discovered  on  a  pleasant  evening.  As  we  advanced  the  land  im- 
proved, the  salt  disappeared,  the  grass  was  splendidly  green  and 
approaching  the  station,  wo  passed  Willow  Creek,  where  go'phar- 
holes  and  snipes,  willows  and  wild  roses,  told  of  life  and  gladden- 
ed the  eye.  The  station  lay  on  a  bench  beyond  the  slope.  The 
express  rider  was  a  handsome  young  Mormon,  who  wore  in  his 
fc  t  hat  the  effigy  of  a  sword ;  his  wife  was  an  Englishwoman, 
who  as  usual  under  the  circumstances,  had  completely  thrown  off 
the  ii^nglishwoman.  The  station-keeper  was  an  Irishman,  cne  of 
the  few  met  among  the  Saints.  Nothing  could  be  fouler  than  the 
log  hut;  the  flies  soon  drove  us  out  of  doors;  hospitality,  howev- 
er was  not  wanting,  and  wo  sat  down  to  salt  beef  and  bacon,  for 
which  wo  wore  not  allowed  to  pay.  The  evening  was  spent  in 
setting  a  wolf-trap,  which  consistetl  of  a  springy  polo  and  a  noose: 
we  strolled  about  after  sunset  with  a  gun,  but'failcd  to  bag  snipe, 
wild-fowl,  or  hare,  and  sighted  only  a  few  cunning  old  crows,  and 
black  swamp-birds  with  yellow  throats.  As  the  hut  contained 
but  one  room,  wo  slept  outside.  The  Gosh  Yuta  are  apparently 
not  a  venturesome  people ;  still,  it  is  considered  advisable  at  times 
to  .shift  ones  sleeping  quarters,  and  to  acciuirc  the  habit  of  easily 
awaking.  ■^ 

.,,,.,,,  „  ,      -  J"  ^T  CVm*  and  hall.     \>t  nnii  2d  of  (ktolter,  1  RfiO. 

A  little  war  had  been  waging  near  Willow  Springs.  In  Juno 
the  station  was  attacked  by  a  small  band  of  Gosh  Yuta,  of  whcm 
three  were  shot  and  summarily  scalped;  an  energetic  proceeding, 
v;>!ic,i  arid  prevented  a  repetiiion  of  the  aiiair.    The  Buvagcs,  who 


i  ,:1 


462 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


are  Rathering  their  pine-nut  harvest,  and  are  driven  by  destitution 
to  beg  at  the  stations,  to  which  one  meal  a  week  will  attach  them, 
are  now  comparatively  peaceful:  when  the  emigration  season  re- 
commences  they  are  expected  to  be  troublesome,  and  their  num- 
bers-the  Pa  Yutas  can  bring  12  000  warriors  into  the  field - 
render  them  formidable.  "Jake,"  the  Shoshonee,  who  had  fol- 
lowed  us  from  Lost  Springs,  still  considered  his  life  in  danger ;  he 
was  as  unwilling  to  wend  his  way  alone  as  an  Arab  Bedouin  or  an 
African  negro  in  their  respective  mteriors.  With  regard  to  our- 
selves,  Lieutenant  Weed  had  declared  that  there  was  no  danger; 
the  station  people  thought,  on  the  contrary,  that  the  snake,  which 
had  been  scotched,  not  killed,  would  recover  after  the  departure 
of  the  soldiers,  and  that  the  work  of  destrucUon  had  not  been  car- 
ried on  with  sufficient  vigor,  ,  .ro-n  u  ^  ^ 

At  6  A  M.  the  thermometer  showed  45°  F. ;  we  waited  two 
hours,  till  the  world  had  time  to  warm.  After  six  miles  we  reach- 
ed "Mountain  Springs,"  a  water-sink  below  the  bench-land  tufted 
round  with  cotton-wood,  willow,  rose,  cane,  and  grass.  On  our 
right,  or  eastward,  lay  Granite  Rock,  which  we  had  well-nigh 
rounded,  and  through  a  gap  wc  saw  Lost-Springs  Station,  distant 
apparently  but  a  few  hours'  canter.  Between  us,  however,  lay 
tfo  horrible  salt  plain-a  continuation  of  the  low  lands  bounding 
the  western  edge  of  the  Great  Salt  Lakc-which  the  drainage  of 
the  hill    over  which  we  were  traveling  inundates  till  June. 

After  twelve  miles  over  the  bcnc:h  wc  passed  a  dark  rock, 
which  protects  a  water  called  Reading's  Springs,  and  we  ha  ted 
to  form  up  at  the  mouth  of  Deep-Creel  Kanyon.     This  is  a  dan- 
gerous  gorge,  some  nine  miles  long,  formed  by  a  watcr-courso 
which  sheds  into  the  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lal'c     Here  I  rode 
forward  with  "Jim,"  a  young  express  rider  from  the  last  station, 
who  volunteered  much  information  upon  the  subject  of  Lidians. 
no  carried  two  Colt's  revolvers,  of  the  dragoon  or  largest  size, 
considering  all  others  too  small.    I  asked  him  what  he  would  do 
if  a  GoshVuta  appeared.     He  replied  that  if  he  fellow  were 
civil  he  might  shako  hands  with  him,  if  sur  y  he  would  shoot 
him;  and,  at  all  events,  when  riding  away,  that  ho  wou  d  keep 
a  "stirrup  eye"  upon  him:  that  ho  was  in  the  habit  of  looking 
round  cornefs  to  sec  if  any  one  was  taking  aim,  in  which  case  he 
would  throw  himself  from  the  saddle,  or  rush  on,  so  as  to  spoil 
the  shooting-the  Indians,  when  charged  becoming  excited  fire 
wHhout  effect.    Ue  mentioned  four  Red  Men  who  could  "draw 
a  bead"  against  any  white ;  usually,  however,  they  take  a  mmuto 
to  load;  they  rcnmre  a  long  aim,  and  they  stmt  their  pomlcr. 
lie  pointed  out  a  j)laco  wlu-ro  Miller,  one  of  the  express  riders, 
had  lately  been  badly  wounded,  and  lost  his  horse.    Nothing,  cer- 
tainly, could  Ix)  better  fitted  for  an  ambuscade  than  this  gorge  with 
iti,  civof^  and  holes  in  snow-cuts,  earth-drops,  and  lines  ot  strata, 
like  walls  of  rudely-pUed  stone;  in  one  piaco  wo  saw  mo  n^ncs 


CHAi-.XII.     DEEP-CREEK  STATION—MR.  WADDINGTON.  453 

of  an  Indian  encampment;  m  another,  a  whirlwind  curlincr  as 

lined  with  white  sage,  which  may  be  used  as  fodder,  and  a  dwirf 
cedar  adorns  the  hills.  The  ground  gives  out  a  hollow  sound 
and  the  existence  of  a  spring  in  the  vicinity  is  suspected  Dc- 
Sf  ^;"fr  .  ""n"*^™  water-shed,  we  sighted,  in  Deep-Creek  Val- 
Great  S^hYll^^T?'  't'^'''  Patch_  of  cultivation  since  leaving 
Great  bait  Lake.    The  Indian  name  is  Ayba-pa,  or  the  Clav-col- 

Z'^  ^'iT.'  P^*^-*^^*  ^r'''^  ^"'l  ^"«t^^"^  l^ave  not  afways 
preserved  the  native  local  terms.  It  is  bisected  by  a  rivuH  In 
which  three  streamlets  from  the  southern  hills  unite;  like  these 
features  generally,  its  course  is  northward  till  it  sinks :  fields  eS 
tend  about  one  mile  from  each  bank,  and  the  rest  of  the  yellow 
bottom  IS  a  tapestry  of  wire  grass  and  wheat  grass.  An  Indian 
model  farm  had  been  established  here;  the  war,  however  pre^ 

ZTr^^  nf  r^',  K°  '?-FI  ^^^  ^V"«d  down' the  house,  ?nd 

severa  of  them  had  been  killed  by  the'soldiers.    On  the  west  of 

he  valley  were  white  rocks  of  the  lime  used  for  mortar :  the  hiUs 

also  showed  lias  and  marble-like  limestones.    The  eastern  wdl 

JJf.v''  ^T  ^r  ^f^^J^gg^^  P^'-^h  ^«^°  ^^'^  ^ith  granite,  there 
black  with  cedar;  they  are  crossed  by  a  short  cut  leading  to  the 
last  station,  which,  however,  generally  proves  the  longest  wav 
and  in  a  dark  ravine  Kennedy  pointedf  out  the  spot  wheTc  he  h.ii 
of  la  e  nearly  left  his  scalp.  6oal  is  said  to  be  found  there  in 
chunks,  and  gold  is  supposed  to  abound;  the  people,  however 
believing  tha  the  valley  can  not  yet  support  extensive  immicrra' 
tion,  conceal  it  probably  by  "  counsel."  '""'o™ 

At  4  P.M.  wo  reached  the  settlement,  consisting  of  two  huts 
and  a  station-house,  a  largo  and  respectable-looking  buildinrr  of 
unburnt  brick,  surroundjxl  by  fenced  fields,  water-courscs,\nd 
stacks  of  good  adobe.  Wo  were  introduced  to  the  Mormoii  sta- 
tion-master,  Mr.  Sevier,  and  others.  They  are  mostly  farm-la- 
borers, who  snend  the  summer  here  and  supply  the  road  with  pro- 
visions:  in  tlio  winter  they  return  to  Grantsvillc,  wlicre  their 
lamilics  are  settled  Among  them  was  a  Mr.  Waddington,  an  old 
1  onnsylvanian  and  a  bigoted  Mormon.  It  is  related  of  him  that 
he  had  treasonably  saved  300  Indians  by  warning  them  of  an  in- 
tended  attack  by  the  federal  troops.  He  spoke  strongly  in  favor 
of  the  despised  Yutas,  declared  that  they  are  ready  to  work  and 
can  be  led  to  any  thin^  by  civility.  Tfie  anti-Mormons  declared 
that  his  praise  was  for  interested  motives,  wishing  the  savasres  to 
labor  for  him  gratis ;  and  I  observed  that  when  Mr.  Waddington 

Klnnirr*^  wood  lu  the  icanyon  ho  set  out  at  night,  lest  his 
oust  should  be  seen  by  his  red  friends. 
The  Mofflions  wcro  not  wautiug  in  kindness;  they  supplied  us 


5 
'     'if 
'     .  ? 

,1' 
I    • 


1 


464 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


CUAP.  XII. 


with  excellent  potatoes,  and  told  us  to  make  their  house  our  home. 
We  preferred,  however,  living  and  cooking  afield.  The  station 
was  dirty  to  the  last  degree :  the  flies  suggested  the  Egyptian 
plague ;  they  could  be  brushed  from  the  walls  in  thousands;  but, 
though  sage  makes  good  brooms,  no  one  cares  to  sweep  clean. 
This,  I  repeat,  is  not  Mormon,  but  Western :  the  people,  like  the 
Spaniards,  apparently  disdain  any  occupation  save  that  of  herding 
catiie,  and  will  do  so  till  the  land  is  settled.  In  the  evenmg  Jake 
the  Shoshonee  came  in,  grumbling  loudly  because  he  had  not 
been  allowed  to  ride;  he  stood  cross-legged  like  an  African,  ate 
a  large  supper  at  the  station,  and  a  second  with  us.  No  wonder 
that  the  savage  in  civilization  suffers,  like  the  lady's  lapdog,  from 
"liver."  He  was,  however,  a  first-rate  hand  in  shirking  any  work 
except  that  of  peering  and  peeping  into  every  thing;  neither  Gos- 
pel nor  gunpowder  can  reform  this  race.     Mr.R ,  the  English 

farrier  and  Lothario,  left  us  on  this  day,  after  a  little  quarrel  with 
Kennedy.  We  were  glad  to  receive  permission  to  sleep  upon  the 
loose  wheat  in  an  inner  room :  at  8  A.M.  the  thermometer  had 
shown  59°  F,,  but  on  this  night  ice  appeared  in  the  pails. 

The  next  day  was  a  hlilt ;  the  stock  wanted  rest  and  the  men 
provisions.  A  "  beef  "—the  Westerns  still  retain  the  singular  of 
«'  beeves" — was  killed,  and  we  obtained  a  store  of  potatoes  and 
wheat.  Default  of  oats,  which  are  not  common,  this  heating  food 
is  given  to  horses— 12  lbs.  of  grain  to  14  of  long  forage— and  the 
furious  riding  of  the  Mormons  is  the  only  preventive  of  its  evil 
effects.  The  people  believe  that  it  causes  stumbling  by  the  swell- 
inf'  of  the  fetlock  and  knee  joint ;  similarly  every  East  Indian 
glK)rewalla  will  declare  that  wheaten  bread  makes  a  horse  tokkar 

thana "eat  trips."    The  employes  of  the  station  were  quiet  and 

respectable,  a  fact  attributed  bv  some  of  our  party  to  the  want  of 
liquor,  which  is  said  to  cause  frequent  fights.  Our  party  was  less 
peaceable;  there  had  been  an  extensive  prigging  of  blankets ;  the 
cold  now  made  them  valuable,  and  this  drove  the  losera  "  fight- 
ing mad." 

En  route  again.     3^1  October, 

The  severity  of  the  last  night  made  us  active ;  the  appearance 
of  deep  snow  upon  the  mountains  and  of  ice  in  the  valleys  was 
an  intelligible  hint  that  the  Sierra  Nevada  which  lay  before  us 
would  be  by  no  means  an  ca.sy  task.  Despite,  therefore,  the  idle- 
ness always  engendered  by  a  halt,  and  the  frigid  blasts  which  pour- 
ed down  horn  the  eastern  hills,  where  rain  was  falling  in  torrents, 
we  hitched  up,  bade  adieu  to  our  Mormon  host,  and  set  out  about 
4  P.M.  Antelope  Springs,  the  next  station,  was  80  miles  distant; 
we  resolved,  therefore,  to  divide  it,  after  the  fashion  of  Asia  and 
Africa,  by  a  short  forenoon  march.  ,  ,,  ,, 

The  road  runs  to  the  southwest  down  the  Dcep-Crcck  Valley, 
and  along  the  left  bank  of  the  western  rivulet.  Near  the  divide 
we  found  a  goo<l  bottom,  with  plenty  of  water  and  grass;  the  only 


Chap.  XII.         EIGHT-MILE  SPBINGS.-SHELL  CREEK.  465 

fuel  was  the  sage-bush,  which  crackled  merrily,  like  thorns  under 
the  pot,  but  tainted  the  contents  with  its  mSal  odor  The 
wagons  were  drawn  up  in  a  half  circle  to  aid  us  in  catching  the 
mules;  the  ammals  were  turned  out  to  graze,  the  men  were  d^ 
vided  mto  watches,  and  the  masters  took  up  their  quartersln  the 
wagons.  A^e  gave  the  judge  a  claim  to  the  ambulance  which 
was  admittel  bj  all  hands ;  f  slept  with  "  Scotch  Joe,''  an  Exceed 
A?  Jp  M ^  ^f  "*^'  Y^^  apparently  preferred  any  thing  to  work. 
At « I'M.  a  storm  of  wmd  and  rain  buret  upon  us  from  the  S  W  • 
It  was  so  violent  that  the  wagons  rocked  before  the  blast,  and  at 
times  the  chance  of  a  capsize  suggested  itself  The  weather  was 
highly  favorable  for  Indian  plundering,  who  on  such  nights  ex- 
pect to  make  a  successful  attack.  _ 


TTT  1  1      .        ,  .  To  the  Wilderness,    ith  October. 

.^Z■  '''lai%^''^\yj''  *^®  ^rS^^  ^-W-  wind,  the  thermometer 
showing  39°  F.  After  a  few  hundred  yards  we  reached  »  Eight- 
mile  Springs,"  so  called  from  the  distance  to  Deep  Creek  The 
road,  which  yesterday  would  have  been  dusty  to  the  hub.  w^  now 
heavy  and  viscid ;  the  rain  had  washed  out  the  salcratus,  and  the 
sight  and  scent,  and  the  country  generally,  were  those  of  the  en- 
virons of  a  horse-pond  An  ugly  stretch  of  two  miles,  perfectly 
t^r!'^n?i  ^"^  ^'S^^-'^'^e-Spnug  Kanvon,  a  jagged  littlVravine 
about  500  yards  long,  with  a  portaled  entrance  of  tall  rock  It 
IS  not,  however,  considered  dangerous. 

Beyond  the  kanvon  lay  another  grisly  land,  if  possible  more 
deplorable  than  before ;  its  only  crops  were  dust  and  mud.  On 
the  right  hand  were  turreted  rocks,  around  whose  base  ran  Indian 
trails,  and  a  violent  west  wind  howled  over  their  summits  About 
1  30  P.M.  we  came  upon  the  station  at  Antelope  Springs:  it  had 
been  burned  by  the  Gosh  Yutas  in  the  last  June,  and  had  never 
been  rebuilt.  "George,"  our  cook,  who  had  been  one  of  the  in- 
mates at  the  time,  told  us  how  he  and  his  confrhes  had  escaped 
J^ortunately,  the  corral  still  stood:  we  found  wood  in  plenty  wa- 
ter was  lying  in  an  adjoining  bottom,  and  wo  used  the  two  to 
brew  our  tea. 

Beyond  Antelope  Springs  was  Shell  Creek,  distant  thirty  miles 
by  long  road  and  eighteen  by  the  short  cut.  We  had  some  diffi- 
culty in  persuading  Kennedy  to  take  the  latter ;  property  not  only 
sharpens  the  intellect,  it  also  generates  prudence,  and  the  ravine  is 
a  well-known  place  for  ambush.  Fortunately  two  express  riders 
came  in  and  offered  to  precede  us,  which  encouraged  us.  About 
3  r.M  wo  left  the  springs  and  struck  for  the  mouth  of  the  kan- 
von, which  has  not  been  named ;  Sevier  and  Farish  are  the  rival 
claimants.  Entering  the  jagged  fir  atul  pine-clad  breach,  we  found 
the  necessity  of  dismounting.  The  bed  was  dry— it  floods  in 
spring  and  autumn— but  very  steep,  and  in  a  hole  on  the  right 
stood  water,  which  we  did  not  touch  for  fear  of  ooison.    Roanh- 

Qq 


m 


'I  a 


466 


THE  Cnr  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


ing  the  summit  in  about  an  hour  we  saw  below  the  shaggy  fore- 
ground of  evergreens,  or  rather  ever-blacks,  which  cast  grotesque  ■, 
and  exaggerated  shadows  in  the  last  rays  of  day,  the  snowy-white 
mountains,  gloriously  sunlit,  on  the  far  side  of  Shell  Creek.  Here 
for  the  first  time  appeared  the  pifion  pine  {P.  Monophyllus),  which 
forms  the  principal  part  of  the  Indian's  diet ;  it  was  no  beauty  to 
look  upon,  a  dwarfish  tree,  rendered  shrub-like  by  being  feathered 
down  to  the  ground.  The  nut  is  ripe  in  early  autumn,  at  which 
time  the  savages  stow  away  their  winter  provision  in  dry  ravines 
and  pits.  The  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  a  pistachio,  with  a  de- 
cided flavor  of  turpentine,  tolerably  palatable,  and  at  first  laxa- 
tive. The  cones  are  thrown  upon  the  fire,  and  when  slightly 
burnt  the  nuta  are  easily  extracted ;  these  are  eaten  raw,  or  like 
the  Hindoo's  toasted  grains.  The  harvest  is  said  to  fail  every 
second  year.  Last  season  produced  a  fine  crop,  while  in  this  au- 
tumn many  of  the  trees  were  found,  without  apparent  reason  but 

frost,  dead. 

AVe  resumed  the  descent  along  a  fiumara,  which  presently 
"sank,"  and  at  5  P.M.  halted  in  a  prairillon  somewhat  beyond. 
Bunch-grass,  sage-fuel,  and  water  were  abundant,  but  the  plaoe 
was  favorable  for  an  attack.  It  is  a  golden  rule  in  an  Indian 
country  never  to  pitch  near  trees  or  rocks  that  can  mask  an  ap- 
proach, and  we  were  breaking  it  in  a  place  of  danger.  However, 
the  fire  was  extinguished  early,  so  as  to  prevent  its  becoming  a 
mark  for  Indians,  and  the  pickets,  placed  on  both  sides  of  the  ra- 
vine, were  directed  to  lie  motionless  a  little  below  the  crest,  and 
to  fire  at  the  first  comer.  I  need  hardly  say  we  were  not  mur- 
dured ;  the  cold,  however,  was  uncommonly  piercing. 

To  • '  Bobber's  Roost."    5th  October. 

We  set  out  at  6  A.M.  the  next  morning,  through  a  mixture  of 
snow  and  hail  and  howling  wind,  to  finish  the  ravine,  which  was 
in  toto  eight  miles  long.  The  descent  led  us  to  Spring  Valley,  a 
bulge  in  the  mountains  about  eight  miles  broad,  which  a  sharp 
divide  separates  from  Shell  Valley,  its  neighbor.  On  the  summit 
we  foil  into  the  line  of  rivulet  which  gives  the  low  lands  a  name. 
At  the  foot  of  the  descent  we  saw  a  woodman,  and  presently  the 
station.  Nothing  could  more  want  tidying  than  this  log  hut, 
•  which  showed  the  bullet-marks  of  a  recent  Indian  attack.  The 
master  was  a  Fran^ais  de  France,  Constant  Dubail,  and  an  ex- 
Lancier :  his  mother's  gossip  had  received  a  remittance  of  2000 
francs  from  a  son  in  CaUfornia,  consequently  be  had  torn  himself 
from  the  scin  of  sa  jiauvre  mhe,  and  with  three  others  had  started 
in  search  of  fortune,  and  had  nearly  starved.  The  express  riders 
were  three  roughs,  of  whom  one  was  a  Mormon.  Wo  passed  our 
time  while  the  mules  were  at  bait  in  visiting  the  springs.  There 
is  a  cold  creek  200  yards  below  the  station,  and  close  by  the  hut 
a  warm  rivulet,  said  to  contain  leeches.    The  American  hirudo, 


CHAP.Xn.  AN  UGLY  PLACE-COLD  COMPORT.  457 

however, has  a  serious  defect  in  a  leech— it  will  not  bite-  th^  fno 
ulty,  therefore,  are  little  addicted  to  hirudination    countrV  dortoS 
rarely  keep  the  v  llainous  bloodsuckers,  and  Zy  the  wealthy  can 
afford  the  pernicious  luxury,  which,  imported  from  S  costs 
$12^ger  dozen,  somewhat  the  same  price^^  oysters  at  1?^  Nov- 

Prl'^noT?^?^^'"'  ''^'*?  ^"^  ^^^^  ^^^  1^  ■^•^■.  ^^en  the  glass  show- 
ed 40    (F.),  promised  to  amend,  and  as  the  filthy  holt-stiKl 

PutrV^^'f  the  cold-offered  no  attraction,  le  set  ou  at  2 
n^^;  W^^^  '  Station,>yond  an  ill-omened  kanyon  of  the  same 
name.  We  descended,  into  a  valley  by  a  regular  slope-in  pro- 
portion as  we  leave  distance  between  us  and  the  Great  Salt  Lake 

tJTt  ^^'"''^r  ^^  '^H^^""^  ^^«°"^^«  less  distinct-andtrav" 
ersed  a  barren  plam  by  a  heavy  road.    Hares  and  prairie-hens 

weTrn  endX'  V^'  '''  ^^^ '^  ^"^^^  °^  ^^^^^  VckTat  L' 
western  end  showed  the  presence  of  water.     We  in  the  ambu- 

lance  halted  at  the  mouth  of  the  kanyon ;  the  stock  and  the  boys 

had  fallen  far  behind,  and  the  place  had  an  exceedingly  bad  nS 

But  the  cold  was  intense,  the  shades  of  evening  wero^closiS* 

so  we  made  ready  for  action,  looked  to  the  prfminTof  guS 

revo  ver,  and  then  en  avantf     After  passing  that^  kSn  we 

An  ugher  place  for  sharp-shooting  can  hardly  be  imagined 
The  floor  of  the  kanyon  is  afmost  flush  with  the  bies  of  thfhins 
and  m  such  formations  the  bed  of  the  creek  which  occupies  the 
sole  IS  rough  and  winding.     The  road  was  vile -now  w ind  n^ 
S"£',>1  T  Tr"^  the  stream-hedged  in  with  thicket  and  dot° 
ted  with  boulders.    Ahead  of  us  was  a  rocky  projection  which 

eye^w'a^  fixer'  °"'  ^"'^'  '"^  "P°"  '^''  Poin't  Bangerous  Ivery 
Suddenly  my  eye  caught  sight  of  one  fire-two  fires  under  the 
black  bunch  of  firs  halfway  up  the  hill-side  on  our  left  and  as 
suddenly  they  were  quenched,  probably  with  snow.  Nothing 
remained  but  to  hear  tlie  war-whoop,  and  to  see  a  line  of  savagei 
rushing  down  the  rocks.  We  loosed  the  doors  of  the  ambuTanle 
hat  we  might  jump  out,  if  necessary,  and  tree  ouiselves  behind 
It;  and  knowing  that  it  would  be  useless  to  return,  drove  on  at 
our  fastest  speed,  with  sleet,  snow,  and  wind  in  our  faces  Under 
the  circumstances,  it  was  cold  comfort  to  find,  when  we  had  clear- 
ed the  kanyon  that  Egan's  Station  at  the  farther  mouth  had  been 
reduced  to  a  chimney-stack  and  a  few  charred  posts.  The  Gosh 
Yutas  had  set  fire  to  it  two  or  three  days  before  our  arrival  in 
revenge  for  the  death  of  seventeen  of  their  men  by  Lieutenant 
\Veeds  party.  We  could  distinguish  the  pits  from  which  the 
wolves  had  torn  up  the  corpses,  and  one  fellow's  arm  projected 
Irom  the  snow.  After  a  hurried  deliberation,  in  which  Kennedy 
swore,  with  that  musical  voice  in  which  the  Dublin  swaius  dc- 


f 


468 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  Xn. 


liglit,  that  "  shure  we  were  all  kilt"— the  possession  of  property 
not  only  actuates  the  mind,  and  adds  industry  to  its  qualities,  it 
also  produces  a  peculiar  development  of  cautiousness— we  un- 
hitched the  mules,  tethered  them  to  the  ambulance,  and  planted 
ourselves  behind  the  palisade,  awaiting  all  comers,  till  the  boys 
could  bring  re-enforcement.     The  elements  fought  for  us:  al- 
thouo-h  two  tongues  of  high  land  directly  in  front  of  us  would 
have°formed  a  fine  mask  for  approach,  the  snow  lay  in  so  even  a 
sheet  that  a  prowling  coyote  was  detected,  and  the  hail-like  sleet 
which  beat  fiercely  on  our  backs  would  have  been  a  sore  incon- 
venience to  a  party  attacking  in  face.    Our  greatest  disadvantage 
was  the  extreme  cold ;  it  was  difficult  to  keep  a  finger  warm 
enough  to  draw  a  trigger.     Thomas,  the  judgeling,  so  he  was 
called,  was  cool  as  a  cucumber,  mentally  and  bodily :  vouths  gen- 
erally are.     Firstly,  they  have  their  ''preuves''  to  make ;  second- 
ly, they  know  not  what  they  do.  i       i     • , 
After  an  hour's  freezing,  which  seemed  a  day's,  we  heard  with 
quickened  ears  the  shouts  and  tramp  of  the  boys  and  the  stock, 
which  took  a  terrible  load  off  the  exile  of  Erin's  heart.     We 
threw  ourselves  into  the  wagons,  numbed  with  cold,  and  forgot, 
on  the  soft  piles  of  saddles,  bridles,  and  baggage,  and  under  heaps 
of  blankets  and  buffalos,  the  pains  of  Barahut.    About  3  A.M. 
this  enjoyment  was  brought  to  a  close  by  arriving  at  the  end  of 
the  stage,  Butte  Station.    The  road  was  six  inches  deep  with 
snow,  and  the  final  ascent  was  accomplished  with  difficulty.    The 
good  station-master,  Mr.  Thomas,  a  Cambrian  Mormon,  who  had, 
he  informed  me,  three  brothers  in  the  British  army,  bade  us  kind- 
ly welcome,  built  a  roaring  fire,  added  meat  to  our  supper  of  cof- 
fee and  doughboy,  and  cleared  by  a  summary  process  among  the 
snorers  places  for  us  on  the  floor  of  "Bobber's  Roost,"  or  "Thieves' 
Delight,"  as  the  place  is  facetiously  known  throughout  the  coun- 
try-side. 

Halt  at  ''Bobber's  Roost"    Gth  October. 

The  last  night's  sound  sleep  was  allowed  to  last  through  the 
morning.  This  day  was  perforce  a  halt :  the  old  white  m-To  and 
her  colt  had  been  left  at  the  mouth  of  the  kanyon,  and  one  of  the 
Shoshonee  Indian  servants  of  the  station  had  been  persuaded  by 
a  bribe  of  a  blanket  and  some  gunpowder  to  return  for  them. 
About  noon  we  arose,  expecting  a  black  fog,  and  looked  down 
upon  Butte  Valley,  whose  northern  edge  we  had  traversed  last 
night.  Snow  still  lay  there— that  bottom  is  rarely  without  frost 
—but  in  the  fine  clear  sunny  day,  with  the  mercury  at  43°  F.  in 
the  shade,  the  lowest  levels  re-became  green,  the  hill  cedars  turn- 
ed once  more  black,  earth  steamed  like  a  garment  hung  out  to 
dry,  nnd  dark  spots  here  and  there  mottled  the  hills,  which  were 
capped  with  huge  turbans  of  muslin-like  mist.  While  the  Sho- 
shonee is  tracking  and  driving  the  old  mare,  wc  will  glance  around 
tlin  "  Robber's  Roostj"  which  will  answer  for  a  study  of  the  West- 
era  man's  home. 


Chap.  XII. 


THE  WESTERN  MAN'S  HOME. 


4G9 


It  is  about  as  civilized  as  the  Galway  shanty,  or  the  normal 
dwelling-place  in  Central  Equatorial  Africa.  A  cabin  fronting 
east  and  west,  long  walls  thirty  feet,  with  port-holes  for  windows, 
short  ditto  fifteen ;  material,  sandstone  and  bog  ironstone  slabs 
compacted  with  mud,  the  whole  roofed  with  split  cedar  trunks, 
reposing  on  horizontals  which  rested  on  perpendiculars.  Behind 
the  house  a  corral  of  rails  planted  in  the  ground ;  the  inclosed 
space  a  mass  of  earth,  and  a  mere  shed  in  on^f  corner  the  only 
shelter.  Outside  the  door— the  hingeless  and  lockless  backboard 
of  a  wagon,  bearing  the  wounds  of  bullets— and  resting  on  lintels 
and  staples,  which  also  had  formed  parts  of  locomotives,  a  slab 
acting  stepping-stone  over  a  mass  of  soppy  black  soil  strewed  with 
ashes,  gobs  of  meat  offals,  and  other  delicacies.  On  the  right  hand 
a  load  of  wood ;  on  the  left  a  tank  formed  by  damming  a  dirty 

?ool  which  had  flowed  through  a  corral  behind  the  "Boost." 
'here  was  a  regular  line  of  drip  distilling  from  the  caked  and 
hollowed  snow  which  toppled  from  the  thick  thatch  above  the 
cedar  braces. 

The  inside  reflected  the  outside.  The  length  was  divided  by 
two  perpendiculars,  the  southernmost  of  which,  assisted  by  a  half- 
way canvas  partition,  cut  the  hut  into  unequal  parts.  Behind  it 
were  two  bunks  for  four  men:  standing  bedsteads  of  poles  plant- 
ed in  the  ground,  as  m  Australia  and  Unyamwezi,  and  covered 
with  piles  of  ragged  blankets.  Beneath  the  frame-work  were 
heaps  of  rubbish,  saddles,  cloths,  harness,  and  straps,  sacks  of 
wheat,  oats,  meal,  and  potatoes,  defended  from  the  ground  by  un- 
derlying logs,  and  dogs  nestled  where  they  found  room.  The 
floor,  which  also  frequently  represented  bedstead,  was  rough,  un- 
even earth,  neither  tamped  nor  swept,  and  the  fine  end  of  a  spring 
oozing  through  the  western  wall  kept  part  of  it  in  a  state  ofeter- 
nal  mud.  A  redeeming  point  was  the  fireplace,  which  occupied 
half  of  the  northern  short  wall:  it  might  have  belonged  to  Guy  of 
Warwick's  great  hall ;  its  ingle  nooks  boasted  dimensions  which 
one  connects  with  an  idea  of  hospitality  and  jollity;  while  a  lono- 
hook  hanging  down  it  spoke  of  the  "'bouillon-pot,  and  the  iron 
oven  of  hot  rolls.  Nothing  could  be  more  simple  than  the  furni- 
ture. The  chairs  were  either  posts  mounted  on  four  legs  spread 
out  for  a  base,  or  three-legged  stools  with  reniform  seats.  The 
tables  were  rough -dressed  planks,  two  feet  by  two,  on  rickety 
trestles.  One  stood  in  the  centre  for  feeding  purposes ;  the  other 
was  placed  as  buftet  in  the  corner  near  the  fire,  with  eating  appa- 
ratus—tin coffee-pot  and  gamcllcs,  rough  knives,  "pitchforks," 
and  pewter  spoons.  The  walls  were  pegged  to  support  spurs  and 
pistols,  whips,  gloves,  and  leggins.  Over  the  door,  in  a  niche, 
stood  a  broken  coffee-mill,  for  which  a  flat  stone  did  duty.  Near 
the  entrance,  on  a  broad  shelf  raised  about  a  foot  from  the  ground, 
lay  a  tin  skillet  and  its  "dipper."  Soap  was  supplied  by  a  hand- 
ful of  gravel,  and  evaporation  was  expected  to  act  towel.    Under 


jii«^ 


470 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


the  board  was  a  pail  of  water  with  a  floating  can,  which  enabled 
the  inmates  to  supply  the  drainage  of  everlasting  chaws.  There 
was  no  sign  of  Bible,  Shakspeare,  or  Milton ;  a  Holywell-Street 
romance  or  two  was  the  only  attempt  at  literature.  En  revanche, 
weapons  of  the  flesh,  riflei,  guns,  and  pistols,  lay  and  hung  all 
about  the  house,  carelessly  stowed  as  usual,  and  tools  were  not 
wanting — hammers,  large  borers,  axe,  saw,  and  chisel.  An  almost 
invariable  figurein  these  huts  is  an  Indian  standing  cross-legged 
at  the  door,  or  squatting  uncomfortably  close  to  the  fire.  He  de- 
rides the  whites  for  their  wastefulness,  preferring  to  crouch  in 
parties  of  three  or  four  over  a  little  bit  of  fuel  than  to  sit  before  a 
blazing  log.  These  savages  act,  among  other  things,  as  hunters, 
bringing  home  rabbits  and  birds.  We  tried  our  revolvers  against 
one  of  them,  and  beat  him  easily ;  yet  they  are  said  to  put,  three 
times  out  of  four,  an  arrow  through  a  keyhole  forty  paces  off.  In 
shooting  they  place  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  right  hand 
upon  the  notch,  and  strengthen  the  pull  by  means  of  the  second 
finger  stretched  along  the  bowstring.  The  left  hand  holds  the 
whipped  handle,  and  the  shaft  rests  upon  the  knuckle  of  the  index. 
From  Mr.  Thomas  wo  heard  an  account  of  the  affair  which  took 

Elace  near  Egan's  Kanyon.  In  the  last  August,  Lieutenant  Weed 
appened  to  be  "  on  a  scout,"  with  seventeen  mounted  riflemen, 
after  Indians.  An  express  rider  from  the  West  had  ridden  up  to 
the  station,  which,  being  in  a  hollow,  can  not  be  seen  from  afar, 
and  found  it  surrounded  by  Gosh  Yuta  Indians.  .The  fellows  had 
tied  up  the  master  and  the  boy,  and  were  preparing  with  civilized 
provisions  a  good  dinner  for  themselves,  to  be  followed  by  a  little 
treat  in  the  form  of  burning  down  the  house  and  roasting  their 
captives.  The  Indians  allowed  the  soldiers  brought  up  by  the  ex- 
press rider  to  draw  near,  thinking  that  the  dust  was  raised  by 
fresh  arrivals  of  their  own  people ;  and  when  charged,  at  once 
fled.  The  mounted  riflemen  were  armed  with  revolvers,  not  with 
sabres,  or  they  would  have  done  considerable  execution ;  as  it  was, 
seventeen  of  tlie  enemy  remained  upon  the  field,  besides  those 
who  were  carried  off  b}''  their  friends.  The  Indian  will  always 
leave  a  scalped  and  wounded  fellow-tribesman  in  favor  of  an  un- 
scalped  corpse. 

In  the  evening  the  Shoshonco  returned,  bringing  with  him  the 
white  marc  and  her  colt,  which  he  had  rcco^  >  cd  elon  Ivi  from 
the  hands  of  two  Gosh  Yutas,  The  wcathei  .^.liii  in  id  up;  we 
had  expected  to  bo  snowed  up  in  five  days  ^ :  t  'k:  ieparturC; 
therefore,  was  joyfully  fixed  for  the  morrow . 

To  Ruby  Valley.     7th  October. 

A  frosty  night  was  followed  by  a  Tuscan  day :  a  cold  tramon- 
tana  from  the  soul'  md  a  clear  hot  sun,  which  expanded  the 
.  :\-  rcury  at  10  A.M.  70°  F.  After  taking  leave  of  the  hospi- 
t'  ble  Btiition-master,  wc  resumed  the  road  wnich  ran  up  the  short 


Chap.  Xn. 


RUBY  VALLEY.— "UNCLE  BILLY." 


471 


and  heavy  ascent,  through  a  country  here  and  there  eighteen 
inches  deep  in  snow,  and  abounding  in  large  sage  and  little  rab- 
bits. A  descent  led  into  Long  Valley,  whose  northern  end  we 
crossed,  and  then  we  came  upon  a  third  ascent,  where,  finding  a 
sinking  creek,  a  halt  was  called  for  lunch.  The  formation  of  the 
whole  country  is  a  succession  of  basins  and  divides.  Ensued  an- 
other twelve  miles'  descent,  which  placed  us  in  sight  of  Ruby  Val- 
ley, and  a  mile  beyond  carried  us  to  the  station. 

Ruby  Valley  is  a  half-way  house,  about  300  miles  from  Great 
Salt  Lake  City,  and  at  the  same  distance  from  Carson  Valley.  It 
derives  its  name  from  the  small  precious  stones  which  are  found 
like  nuggets  of  gold  in  the  crevices  of  primitive  rock.  The 
length  of  the  valley  is  about  100  miles,  by  three  or  four  broad, 
and  springs  are  scattered  in  numbers  along  the  base  of  the  west- 
ern mountains.  The  cold  is  said  to  bo  here  more  severe  than  in 
any  place  on  the  line  of  road,  Spring  Valley  excepted.  There  is, 
however,  excellent  bench-land  for  grazing.  In  this  season  the 
scenery  is  really  pretty.  The  white  peaks  tower  over  hill-land 
black  with  cedar,  and  this  looks  down  upon  the  green  bottom 
scattered  over  with  white  sage — winter  above  lying  by  the  side 
of  summer  below. 

We  were  received  at  the  Ruby-Valley  Station  by  Colonel  Rogers, 
better  known  as  "  Uncle  Billy."  He  had  served  in  the  troublous 
days  of  California  as  marshal,  and  has  many  a  hairbreadth  escape 
to  relate.  He  is  now  assistant  Indian  agent,  the  superintendent 
of  a  government  model  farm,  and  he  lives  en  gar^on,  having  left 
his  wife  and  children  at  Frogtown.  We  were  soon  introduced  to 
the  chief  of  the  country,  Chyukupichya  (the  "  old  man"),  a  word 
of  unpronounceable  slur,  changed  by  whites  into  Chokop  ("earth"). 
His  lands  are  long  to  the  north  and  south,  though  of  little  breadth. 
He  commands  about  500  warriors,  and,  as  Uncle  Billy  is  return- 
ing to  Frogtown,  he  is  collecting  a  large  hunting-party  for  the  au- 
tumnal battue.  In  1849  his  sister  was  wantonly  shot  by  emigrants 
to  California.  He  attacked  the  train,  and  slew  in  revenge  five 
men,  a  fact  with  which  we  were  not  made  acquainted  till  after  our 
departure.  His  father  and  grandfather  are  both  alive,  but  they 
have  abdicated  under  the  weight  of  years  and  infirmities,  reserv- 
ing their  voices  for  the  powwow. 

We  dined  in  the  colonel's  stone  hut,  and  then  saw  the  lions 
feed ;  after  us,  Chokop  and  five  followers  sat  down  with  knife 
and  fork  before  a  huge  tureen  full  of  soft  pie,  among  which  they 
did  terrible  execution,  champing  and  chewing  with  the  noisiness 
of  wild  beasts,  and  eating  each  enough  for  three  able-bodied  sail- 
ors. The  chief,  a  young  man  twenty-five  years  old,  had  little  to 
denote  the  Indian  except  vermilion  where  soap  should  have  been ; 
one  of  his  companions,  nowever,  crowned  with  eagle's  feathers  dis- 
posed in  tulip  shape,  while  the  claws  depended  gracefully  down 
Lis  back,  was  an  object  worthy  of  Guinea.    All  were,  however,  to 


li   i 


472 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XII. 


appearance,  happy,  and  for  the  first  time  I  heard  an  Indian  really 
laugh  outright.  Outside  squatted  the  common  herd  in  a  costume 
which  explains  the  prevalence  of  rheumatism.  The  men  were  in 
rags,  yet  they  had  tneir  coquetry,  vermilion  streaked  down  their 
cheeks  and  across  their  foreheads — the  Indian  fashion  of  the  om- 
nilocal  rouge.  The  women,  especially  the  elders,  were  horrid  ob- 
jects, shivering  and  half  dressed  in  breech-cloths  and  scanty  capes 
or  tippets  of  wolf  and  rabbit  skin :  the  existence  of  old  age,  how- 
ever, speaks  well  for  the  race.  Both  are  unclean ;  they  use  no 
water  where  Asiatics  would ;  they  ignore  soap,  and  rarely  repair 
to  the  stream,  except,  like  animals,  in  hot  weather. 

We  tlien  strolled  about  the  camp  and  called  upon  the  two  Mis- 
tresses Chokop.  One  was  a  buxom  dame,  broad  and  strong,  with 
hair  redolent  of  antelope  marrow,  who  boasted  of  a  "  wikeap"  or 
wigwam  in  the  sliapc  of  a  conical  tent.  The  other,  much  her 
junior,  and  rather  pretty,  was  sitting  apart  in  a  bower  of  bushes, 
with  a  newly-born  pappoose  in  a  willow  cage  to  account  for  her 
isolation :  thi!  poor  thing  would  have  been  driven  out  even  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  and  were  she  to  starve,  sh'^  must  do  without  meat. 
As  among  the  Jews,  whenever  the  Great  Father  is  angry  with  the 
daugliters  of  Red  Men,  they  sit  apart;  they  never  touch  a  cook- 
ing utensil,  although  it  is  not  held  impure  to  address  them,  and 
they  return  only  when  the  signs  of  wrath  have  passed  away. 
The  abodes  of  the  poorer  clansmen  were  three-quarter  circles  of 
earth,  sticks,  and  sage-bush  to  keep  off  the  southerly  wind.  A 
dog  is  usually  one  of  the  occupants.  Like  the  African,  the  In- 
dian is  cruel  to  liis  brute,  starves  it  and  kicks  it  for  attempting  to 
steal  a  mouthful :  "Love  me,  love  my  dog,"  however,  is  his  mot- 
to, and  he  cpiarrels  witli  the  stranger  that  follows  his  example. 
Tlie  furniture  was  primitive.  Upon  a  branch  hung  a  dried  ante- 
lojic  head  used  in  stalking:  concerning  tliis  sport  Uncle  Billy 
had  a  story  of  his  nearly  being  shot  by  being  mistaken  for  the 
real  animal ;  and  tripods  of  timber  supporting  cloths  and  mocca- 
sins, ])ans,  camp-kettles,  stones  for  grinding  grass-seed,  and  a  vari- 
ety of  baskets.  The  material  was  mostly  willow  twig,  with  a 
layer  of  gum,  probably  from  the  pine-tree.  Some  were  water- 
tight like  the  "  iliin"  of  SomalilaiKi;  others,  formed  like  the  Ro- 
man amphora,  were  for  storing  grain  ;  while  others,  in  giant  cock- 
ed-hat shape,  wore  intended  for  sweeping  in  crickets  and  tho  grass- 
seeds  upon  which  these  Indians  feed.  The  chief  gramineai  are  tho 
atriplex  and  chenopodaccous  plants.  After  inspecting  tho  camp 
we  rt'tired  precipitately:  its  condition  was  that  of  an  Egyptian 
army's  last  nighting-placo. 

About  two  miles  from  the  station  there  is  a  lako  covered  with 
water-fowl,  from  the  wild  swan  to  the  rail.  I  preferred,  however, 
to  correct  my  tShoshonec  voeabulary  under  the  inspection  of  Mo.so 
Wright,  an  express  ride  from  a  neighboring  station.  None  of 
your  "  one-horse"  interj)reters,  he  had  learned  the  ditFieult  dialect 


CUAP.  XIII. 


PRICE  OF  A  GOVERNMENT  FAKM. 


473 


in  his  youth,  and  he  had  acquired  all  the  intonation  of  an  Indian. 
Educated  beyond  the  reach  of  civilization,  he  was  in  these  days 
an  oddity ;  he  was  convicted  of  having  mistaken  a  billiard  cue 
for  a  whip  handle,  and  was  accused  of  having  mounted  the  post 
supporting  the  electric  telegraph  wire  in  order  to  hear  what  it 
was  saying.  The  evening  was  spent  in  listening  to  Uncle  Billy's 
adventures  among  the  whites  and  reds.  He  spoke  highly  of  his 
proteges,  especially  of  their  aflFection  and  fidelity  in  married  life : 
they  certainly  appeared  to  look  upon  him  as  a  father.  lie  owed 
something  to  legerdemain ;  here,  as  in  Algeria,  a  Houdin  or  a 
Love  would  be  great  medicine-men  with  whom  nobody  would 
dare  to  meddle.  Uncle  Billy  managed  to  make  the  post  pay  by 
peltries  of  the  mink,  wolf,  woodchuck  or  ground-hog,  fox,  badger, 
antelope,  black-tailed  deer,  and  others.  lie  illustrated  the  pecul- 
iarities of  the  federal  government  by  a  curious  anecdote.  The 
indirect  or  federal  duties  are  in  round  numbers  $100,000,000,  of 
which  $60,000,000  are  spent,  leaving  a  surplus  "of  forty  for  the 
purpose  of  general  corruption :  the  system  seems  to  date  from  the 
days  of  the  "ultimus  Eomanorum,''  President  Jackson.  None 
but  the  largest  claimants  can  expect  to  bo  recognized.     A  few 

years  ago  one  of  the  Indian  agents  in was  asked  by  a  high 

official  what  might  be  about  the  cost  of  purchasing  a  few  hundred 
acres  for  a  government  farm.  After  reckoning  up  the  amount  of 
beads,  wire,  blankets,  and  gunpowder,  the  total  was  found  to  be 
$240.  The  high  official  requested  his  friend  to  place  the  state- 
ment on  paper,  and  was  somewhat  surprised  the  next  morning  to 
see  the  $240  swollen  to  $40,000.  The  reason  given  was  charac- 
teristic: "  What  great  government  would  condescend  to  pay  out 
of  £8,000,000  a  paltry  £48,  or  would  refuse  to  give  £8000'/" 


.' '.% 


')t 


CnAPTEB  XIII. 


To  Carson  Valley. 

Before  resuming  the  Itinerary,  it  may  be  advisable  biiefly  to 
describe  the  various  tribes  tenanting  this  Territory. 

We  have  now  emerged  from  the  Prairie  Indians,  the  Dakotah, 
Crow,  Kiowa,  Comanche,  Osage,  Apache,  Cheyenne,  Pawnee,  ana 
Arapaho.  Utah  Territory  contains  a  total  of  about  19,000  soula 
of  two  great  kindred  races,  the  Shoshonee  or  Snake,  and  the  Yutn, 
called  iJche  by  the  Spaniards  and  Ute  by  the  Anglo-American 
trappers.  Like  the  Comanche  and  Aiiaelie,  tlie  IMmas,  the  Lipana, 
and  the  people  of  tlie  Pueblos,  tliey  are  of  the  llisnano-Ainerican 
division,  once  subject  to  the  Concpiistadores,  aiici  are  bounded 
north  by  the  Paiuik*  (liannack)  and  the  once  formidable  Black- 

*  Ttio  ruiiiik  ii«  II  Htiiitii  iriliL)  uf  iiOO  Huiiin,  uuw  cuiiniUeti' j  dungcruus ;  ilio  grciik'r 


4„. 


474 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


feet.     The  Shoshonee  own  about  one  third  of  the  Territory ;  their 

f)rincipal  settlements  lie  north  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  anu  on  the 
ine  of  the  Iluraboldt  or  Mary  River,  some  400  miles  west,  and 
100  to  125  south  of  the  Oregon  line.  They  number  about  4500 
souls,  and  arc  wildest  in  the  southeast  parts  of  their  motherland. 
The  Yuta  claim  the  rest  of  the  Territory  between  Kansas,  the  Si- 
■  erra  Nevada,  New  Mexico,  and  the  Oregon  frontier.  Of  course 
the  two  peoples  are  mortal  foes,  and  might  be  well  pitted  against 
each  other.  The  Snakes  would  form  excellent  partisan  warriors. 
The  Shoshonee  number  fourteen  tribes  regularly  organized; 
the  principal,  which  contains  about  12,000  souls,  is  commanded 
by  Washaki,  a  listed,  as  usual,  by  sub-chiefs,  four  to  six  in  num- 
ber. Five  bands,  numbering  near  1000  each,  roam  about  the 
mountains  and  kanyons  of  Great  Salt  Lake  County,  Weber,  Bear, 
Cache,  and  Malad  Valleys,  extending  eighty  miles  north  from  the 
Iloly  City.  These  have  suffered  the  most  from  proximity  with 
the  whites,  and  no  longer  disdain  agriculture.  One  band,  150  to 
180  in  number,  confines  itself  to  the  North  Californian  Route  from 
Bear  and  Malad  Valleys  to  the  Goose-Creek  Mountains.  Seven 
bands  roam  over  the  country  from  the  Humboldt  River  to  100 
miles  south  of  it,  and  extend  about  200  miles  from  east  to  west: 
the  principal  chief,  Wanamuka,  or  "  the  Giver,"  had  a  band  of 
155  souls,  and  lived  near  the  Honey  Lake. 

The  Yuta  claim,  like  the  Shoshonee,  descent  from  an  ancient 
people  that  immigrated  into  their  present  scats  from  the  north- 
west. During  the  last  thirty  years  they  have  considerably  de- 
creased according  to  the  mountaineers,  and  have  been  demoral- 
ized mentally  and  physically  by  the  emigrants :  formerly  they 
were  friendly,  now  they  arc  often  at  war  with  the  intruders.  As 
in  Australia,  arsenic  and  corrosive  sublimate  in  springs  and  ])ro- 
visions  have  diminished  tlieir  number.  The  nation  is  said  to  eon- 
tain  a  total  of  14,000  to  15,000  souls,  divided  into  twenty -seven 
bands,  of  which  tlie  following  are  the  principal : 

The  V:i  Yuta  ^I'ey  Utos)  are  the  most  docile,  interesting,  and 
powerful,  containnig  twelve  bands;*  those  in  the  west  of  the  Tar- 

part  resides  in  Oregon,  tlio  snmllcr  nI)out  ninety  miles  in  the  N.E.  of  the  Territory, 
where  tliey  limit  the  liison  nnJ  tlio  elk. .  For  liiirly  yenrs  they  hiive  traiU'd  witii  Fort 
DridRer,  iind  «licn  (list  known  tliey  mmilicred  iL'oi)  jod^'cH.  ""  Horn,"  their  ]irin('i|ml 
chief,  vJMted  tiie  iilnee  in  April,  IH.'.S.  Mr.  Forney,  tlio  late  .Su|)erinlendeiit  of  in- 
diiin  Afl":iir^  in  I'tiih  Territory,  grnnted  them  n  hoiue  in  the  Iniids  of  WuBh.iki,  and 
they  have  intermarried  and  liveil  peneeHhly  with  the  Shoshonee. 

♦  'I'liese  are,  I.  Wanamuka'.-* ;  'J.  San  .I(iai|iiini,  near  the  forks  of  that  river  in  Car- 
son  Valley,  numherinji  170;  :t,  Iladsapoke,  or  HorHe-stoppcr  hand,  of  110,  in  (lold 
Knnyon,  on  Carbon  Kiver;  4.  Widii  or  Fox  hand,  on  IVn;  Hend  of  Carson  Hiver,  I;t0 
in  numk'r;  5  andC.  Odakeo,  "'lall-man  Imml,"  and  IVtodseka,  "\Vhite-S|Hil  hand," 
round  the  lakes  and  sink-^  of  the  Carson  and  Widker  Uivers,  numlH-rint^  4xt  men, 
;17'J  women,  and  lO.'i  ihildren;  7.  'I'osnrke,  "(irny-hcad  haiul,"  their  neijjhhors;  8. 
Tono/.iet,  "  Wotnnn  helper  lian<l,"  on  the  Trmkee  Hiver,  Ulow  Hij.'  Meadows,  nnm- 
lierinn  'JHO  souls ;  U.  'l'or»)ie,  or  "  Ijean-mnn  hand,"  on  the  Truckee  liiver,  near  Lone 
(.^rossiuK,  ;i('iO  souls;  10.  (ionei;a,  the  "  I)»U(  rr  liand,"  L".il)  souls,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Truckee  liiver:   1!.  WiitseijueuUi-.  the  "  Fi.ur  Criviv=i,"  ulisug  the  sh"n-i  yf  I'jra- 


Chat.  XHI. 


THE  GOSH  YUTA,  ETC. 


476 


ntory,  on  the  Humboldt  River,  number  6000.  and  in  the  south 
2200  souls ;  they  extend  from  forty  miles  west  of  Stony  Point  to 
the  Californian  line,  and  northwest  to  the  Oregon  line  and  inhab- 
it the  valley  of  the  Fenelon  River,  which,  rising  frorn  Lake  Big- 
ler,  empties  itself  into  Pyramid  Lake.  The  term  means  Water 
Yuta,  that  is  to  say,  those  who  live  upon  fish  which  they  take 
from  lakes  and  rivers  in  wiers  and  traps  of  willow,  perferrin"  that 
diet  to  roots,  grass-seed,  lizards,  and  crickets,  the  food  of  thc'other 
so-called  Digger  tribes. 

Gosh  Yuta,  or  Gosha  Ute,  is  a  small  band,  once  iiroteytn  of  the 
Shoshonee,  who  have  the  same  language  and  limits.  Their  prin- 
cipal chief  died  about  five  years  ago,  when  the  tribe  was  broken 
up.  A  body  of  sixty,  under  a  peaceful  leader,  were  settled  per- 
manently on  the  Indian  farm  at  Deep  Creek,  and  the  remainder 
wandered  40  to  200  miles  west  of  Great  Salt  I^ake  City.  Through 
this  tribe  our  road  lay ;  during  the  late  tumults  they  have  lost 
fifty  warriors,  and  arc  now  reduced  to  about  200  men.  Like  the 
Ghuzw  of  Arabia,  they  strengthen  themselves  by  admitting  the 
outcasts  of  other  tribes,  and  will  presently  become  a  mere  banditti. 

Pavant,  or  Parovan  Yuta,  are  a  distinct  and  self-organized  tribe, 
under  one  principal  .and  several  sub-chiefs,  whose  total  is  set  down 
at  700  souls.  Half  of  them  are  settled  on  the  Indian  farm  at  Corn 
Creek ;  the  other  wing  of  the  tribe  lives  along  Sevier  Lake,  and 
the  surrounding  country  in  the  northeast  extremity  of  Fillmore 
Valley,  fifty  miles  from  the  city,  where  they  join  the  Gosh  Yuta. 
The  Pavants  breed  horses,  wear  clothes  of  various  patterns,  grow 
grain,  which  the  Gosh  Yutas  will  not,  and  are  as  brave  and  im- 
provable as  their  neighbors  are  mean  and  vile. 

Timpenaguchyii,*  or  Timpana  Yuta,  corrupted  into  Tenpenny 
Utes,  who  dwell  about  the  kanyon  of  that  name,  and  on  the  east 
of  tlio  Sweetwater  Lake.  Of  th'is  tribe  was  the  clu(;f  Wakara,  who 
so  called  himself  after  Walker,  the  celebrated  trai)per ;  the  noto- 
rious horse-stealer  jjrovcd  himself  a  friend  to  the  Latter-Day 
Saints.  He  died  at  Meadow  Creek,  six  miles  from  Fillmore  City, 
on  the  29th  of  January,  1855,  and  at  his  obsequies  two  sc^uaws, 
two  Pa  Yuta  children,  and  fifteen  of  his  best  horses  composed  the 
"customs." 

Uinta  Yuta,  in  the  mountains  south  of  Fort  Bridgcr,  and  in  the 
country  along  the  Green  River.  Of  this  tribe,  which  contains  a 
total  of  1000,  a  band  of  500,  under  four  chiefs,  lately  settled  on 
the  Indian  reservations  at  Spanish  Fork. 

Sam])ichya,  corrupted  to  San  Pete  Utas ;  about  eighty  warriors, 
settled  on  the  Indian  farm  at  San  Pete.  This  ancf  the  Spanish- 
Fork  Farm  number  000  inhabitants. 

Elk-Mountain  Yutas,  wlio  are  set  down  at  2000  souls,  by  some 

mill  Lak(\  .'120  souls ;  13.  Tho  oornnd  Wnnnnmkn'n  bnml,  fiOO  in  miml)or,  along  tho 
sluiri'n  <if  the  Norflicrn  IMiid  I.nkc. 
*  ill  (Uuluia  iuiitjuugo  aiuiiuiug  "wuicr  aiuuug  Ihu  Btotius.'' 


l../r. 


476 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


even  3000 ;  they  wander  over  the  southeast  portion  of  the  Terri- 
tory, and,  like  the  Uinta  Yutas,  are  the  most  independent  of  white 
settlers. 

*  Weber-River  Yutas  are  those  principally  seen  in  Great  Salt 
Lake  City ;  they  are  a  poor  and  degraded  tribe.  Their  chief  set- 
tlement is  forty  miles  to  the  north,  and,  like  the  Gosh  Yutas,  they 
understand  Shoshonee. 

Among  the  Yutas  are  reckoned  the  Washoe,  from  500  to  700 
souls.  They  inhabit  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  from 
Honey  Lake  to  the  West  Fork  of  Walker's  River  in  the  south. 
Of  tins  troublesome  tribe  there  are  three  bands:  Captain  Jim's, 
near  Lake  Biglcr,  and  Carson,  Washoe,  and  Eagle  Valleys,  a  total 
of  342  souls ;  Pasuka's  band,  840  souls,  in  Little  Valley ;  and  Deer 
Dick's  band,  in  Long  Valley,  southeast  of  Honey  Lake.  They 
are  usually  called  Shoshoko,*  or  "  Digger  Indians'' — a  term  as  in- 
sulting to  a  Shoshonee  as  nigger  to  an  African. 

Besides  the  Parawat  Yutas,  theYampas,  200 — 300  miles  south, 
on  the  White  River ;  the  Tabechva,  or  Sun-hunters,  about  Tcte  de 
Biche,  near  Spanish  lands ;  and  the  Tasli  Yuta,  near  the  Navajocs : 
there  are  scatters  of  the  nation  along  the  Californian  road  from 
Beaver  Valley,  along  the  Santa  Clara,  Virgen,  Las  Vegas,  and  Mud- 
dy Rivers  to  New  Mexico. 

The  Lidian  Bureau  of  Utah  Territory  numbers  one  superin- 
tendent, six  agent;;,  and  three  to  six  form-agtnts.  The  annual 
expenditure  is  set  down  at  $40,000 ;  the  Mormons  declare  that  it 
is  ini([uitously  embezzled,  and  that  the  total  spent  upon  the  In- 
dians hardly  exceeds  $1000  per  annum.  The  savages  expect 
blankets  and  clothing,  flour  and  ])rovisions,  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion :  tliey  receive  oidy  a  little  tobacco,  become  surly,  and  slay 
the  settlers.  It  is  understood  that  the  surveyor  general  has  rec- 
ommended to  the  federal  government  the  extinction  of  the  Indian 
title — somewhat  upon  the  principle  of  the  English  in  Tasmaniaf 
and  New  Zealand — to  grounds  in  the  Utah  Territory,  and  the 
establishment  of  a  land-office  for  the  sale  of  the  two  millions  of 
acres  already  surveyed.  Until  the  citizens  can  own  their  iimns 
and  fields  under  the  existing  pre-emption  laws,  and  until  tho 
troublesome  Indians  can  bo  removed  by  treaty  to  reservations 
remote  from  white  settlements,  the  onward  march  of  progress  will 
be  arrested.  The  savage  and  the  civilized  man,  like  crabbed  ago 
and  youth,  like  the  black  and  gray  rat,  can  not  live  togetlier:  tho 
former  starves  unless  ]»laced  in  the  most  fertile  sjutts,  which  the 
latter  of  course  covets;  the  Mormons  attempt  u  peace  policy,  but 

•  Tt  is  jinid  to  monn  "ono  wlio  pocs  on  foot." 

t  Viin  Dienicn's  Land,  in  flip  dnys  of  ("nntnin  Flinders  fA.P.  1800,  two  Kcnrni- 
tionx  MKo),  liiid  n  iKipiiliitiiiti  <if  lOO.tKH)  wiiiU,  iicw  wcll-niK'))  Hnnililiittcd  In  strong 
\viiicn<  mid  corrdcivc  Kidiliiimto.  Neither  ninii  nor  wi.nian  wns  hmIo  in  llie  vieiniiy 
of  II  niitive  triln- :  the  AnKht-Senndlimviiin  nice  thus  found  It  neeesMuy  to  wipe  out 
n  peo]iie  timt  eonhl  not  he  eivili/.ed — ii  fiiir  insfiinee  of  the  niitiiriil  fieleetion  of  (ipc- 
cicii.     And  New  Zeuhind  now  thriateiiH  to  wiilk  tlie  ]iiitli  of 'riisiiiuiiiu. 


Chap.  XIII. 


THE  INDIAN  FARMS. 


477 


■' 


the  hunting-grounds  are  encroached  upon,  and  terrible  massacres 
are  tae  result.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  battle  of  life  is  fiercely 
fought.     It  has  been  said,  *^ 

"  Man  differs  more  from  man 
Than  beast  from  beast." 

Yet  every  where  we  trace  the  mighty  resemblance. 

The  three  principal  farms  which  now  form  the  nuclei  of  future 
reservations  are  those  at  Spanish  Fork,  San  Pete,  and  Corn  Creek. 
The  two  latter  have  often  been  denuded  by  the  grasshopper  •  the 
former  has  fared  better.  Situated  in  Utah  Valley,  under  the  shel- 
ter of  lofty  Nebo,  it  extends  northward  within  four  miles  of  the 
Sweetwater  Lake,  and  on  the  northeast  is  bounded  by  the  Spanish- 
Fork  Creek,  rich  in  trout  and  other  fish.  It  was  begun  five  years 
ago  for  the  Yutas,  who  claim  the  land,  and  contains  a  total  of 
13,000  acres,  of  which  500  have  been  cultivated;  900  have  been 
ditched  to  protect  the  crop,  and  1000  have  been  walled  round 
with  a  fence  six  feet  high.  Besides  other  improvements,  they 
have  built  a  large  adobe  house  and  two  rail  corrals,  and  dug  dams 
and  channels  for  irrigation,  together  with  a  good  stone -curbed 
well.  Under  civilized  superintendence  the  savages  begin  to  la- 
bor, and  the  chiefs  aspire  to  erect  houses.  Yet  the  crops  have 
been  light,  rarely  exceeding  2500  bushels.  San  Pete  Farm,  in 
the  valley^and  on  the  creek  of  the  same  name,  lies  150  miles  south 
of  Great  Salt  Lake  City ;  it  supports,  besides  those  who  come  for 
temporary  assistance,  a  band  of  thirty  souls ;  200  acres  have  been 
planted  with  wheat  and  potatoes,  two  adobe  houses  and  a  corral 
have  been  made,  and  irrigating  trenches  have  been  dug.  Corn- 
Creek  Farm,  in  Fillmore  Valley,  was  begun  about  four  years  ago; 
800  acres  have  been  broken  up,  several  adobe  houses  have  been 
built  for  the  Indians  and  the  farm  agent,  with  the  usual  adjuncts, 
corral  and  fences.  The  crickets  and  grasshoppers  have  commit- 
ted sad  havoc  among  the  wheat,  corn,  and  potatoes.  It  is  now 
tenanted  by  a  Pahvant  chief.  The  Uinta  Farm  is  near  Fort  Bridg- 
er.  Those  lately  opened  in  Deep  Creek  and  Ruby  Valleys  have 
this  year  lain  fallow  in  consequence  of  Indian  troubles;  the  soil, 
however,  is  rich,  and  will  produce  beets,  potatoes,  onions,  turnips, 
and  melons.  It  is  jiroposed  to  place  the  Pa  Yutas  and  Washoes 
in  the  Truckeo  Meadows,  on  the  lands  "watered  by  the  majestic 
Kuyuehup,  or  Salmon-Trout  River,"  where,  besides  fish  and  pifion 
forests,  there  are  15,000  acres  fit  for  cultivation  and  herding.  The 
Indian  agents  report  that  the  cost  will  bo  $150,000,  from  which 
tiic  Mormons  deduct  at  least  two  O's. 

Tlie  Yuta,  though  divided  into  many  tribes  and  bands,  is  a  dis- 
tinct race  from  its  prairie  neighbors,  speaking  a  single  huiguc  mhe 
much  diversified  by  dialect.  Tlicy  are  a  superstitious  brood,  and 
have  many  cruel  i)ractices— human  sacrifices  and  vivisepulturc— 
like  those  of  Dahomey  and  Ashantee.  Their  religion  is  the  usual 
African  and  Indian  fetichism,  that  gormal  livith  which,  under  fa- 


K!  '   'I 


^m 


478 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


vorable  influences  and  among  higher  races,  developed  itself  by 
natural  means — or  as  explained  by  a  mythical,  distinct,  and  inde- 
pendent revelation— into  the  higher  forms  of  Judaism,  Christian- 
ity, and  El  Islam.     In  the  vicinity  of  the  Mormons  many  savages 
have  been  baptized,  and  have  become  nominal  Saints.     They  di- 
vide white  men  into  Shwop  or  Americans  and  Mormons.     Their 
learned  men  have  heard  of  Washington,  but,  like  the  French  peas- 
ant's superstition  concerning  Napoleon,  they  believe  him  to  be 
still  alive.     They  have  a  name  for  the  Book  of  Mormon,  and  have 
not  learned,  like  their  more  civilized  Eastern  neighbors,  to  look 
upon  it  as  the  work  of  Mujhe  Manitou,  the  bad  god,  who,  like 
Wiswakarma  of  the  Hindoos,  amuses  himself  by  caricaturing  and 
parodying  the  creatures  of  the  good  god.     They  are  not  cannibals 
— the  Wendigo  is  a  giant  man-eater  of  a  mythologic  type,  not  an 
actual  anthropophage — but,  like  all  Indians,  especially  those  of 
New  Euglancl,  they  "feel  good"  after  eating  a  bit  of  the  enemy, 
a  natural  display  of  destructiveness :  they  will  devour  the  heart 
of  a  brave  man  to  increase  their  courage,  or  chop  it  up,  boil  it  in 
soup,  engorge  a  ladleful,  and  boast  they  have  drunk  the  enemy's 
blood.     They  are  as  liable  to  caprice, as  their  Eastern  neighbors. 
A  prisoner  who  has  distinguished  himself  in  battle  is  as  often  dis- 
missed unhurt  as  porcupincd  with  arrows  and  killed  with  cruel 
tortures ;  if  they  yield  in  ingenuity  of  inflicting  pain  to  the  Al- 
gonquins  and  Iroquois,  it  is  not  for  want  of  inclination,  but  by 
reason  of  their  stupidity.     Female  captives  who  fall  into  their 
hands  are  horribly  treated ;  I  was  told  of  one  who,  after  all  man- 
ner of  atrocities,  scalping  included,  escaped  with  life.     They  have 
all  the  savage's  improvidence ;  utihty  is  not  their  decalogue.   Both 
sexes,  except  when  clothed  by  a  charitable  Mormon,  are  nearly 
naked,  even  in  the  severest  weather ;  they  sleep  in  sleet  and  snow 
unclothed,  except  with  a  cape  of  twisted  rabbits'  furs  and  a  mis- 
erable attempt  at  moccasins,  lined  with  plaited  cedar  bark :  log- 
gins  are  unknown,  even  to  the  women.    Their  ornaments  are  ver- 
milion, a  few  beads,  and  shell  necklaces.     They  rarely  suffer  from 
any  disease  but  rheumatism,  brought  on  by  living  in  the  warm 
houses  of  the  whites,  and  various  consequences  of  liver  complaint, 
produced  by  overgorging:  as  with  strong  constitutions  generally, 
they  cither  die  at  once  or  readily  recover.     They  dress  wounds 
with  pine  gum  after  squeezing  out  the  blood,  and"  tlu'ir  medicine- 
men have  the  usual  variety  of  savage  nostrums.    In  the  more  des- 
ert parts  of  the  Territory  they  are  exceedingly  destitute.     South 
of  Cedar  City,  even  ten  years  ago  they  had  fields  of  wheat  and 
corn  of  six  acres  each,  and  supported  emigrants ;  some  of  them 
cultivate  yearly  along  the  stream-banks  j)eas,  beans,  sweet  pota- 
toes, and  squashes.     They  live  upon  tlio  flosh  of  tlie  bear,  elk, 
antelope,  dog,  wolf,  hare,  snake,  and  lizard,  besides  crit^lcets,  grass- 
hoppers, ants,  and  other  vermin.     The  cactus  leaf,  pi  Hon  nut,  and 
various  barks ;  the  seed  of  tho  bunch-grasa  and  of  the  wheat  or 


Chap.  XIU. 


THE  YUTAS. 


479 


yellow  grass  somewliat  resembling  rye;  the  rabbit-busli  twigs, 
which  are  chewed  and  various  roots  and  tubers;  the  soft  se|J 
bulb  the  rootlet  of  the  cat-tail  flag,  and  of  the  tule,  which,  whfn 
sun-dried  and  powdered  to  flour,  keeps  through  the  winter  and 

wf  it  7^1"  1^°  ^^'^  '"^"'  conclude  the  list  of  their  dainties. 
When  these  fail  they  must  steal  or  starve,  and  the  dilemma  is  eas- 
ily solved,  to  the  settler's  cost. 

The  Yutas  in  the  vicinity  of  the  larger  white  settlements  con- 
tinually dimmish ;  bands  of  150  warriors  are  now  reduced  to  35 
bome  of  the  minor  tribes  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Territorv' 
near  Wcw  Mexico,  can  scarcely  show  a  single  squaw,  having  traded 
them  off  for  horses  and  arms;  they  go  about  killing  one  another, 
and  on  kidnapping  expeditions,  which  forther  diminish  the  breed. 
lUe  complaint  which  has  devastated  the  South  Sea  Islands  ra"-es 
around  the  City  of  the  Saints,  and  extends  to  the  Rio  Virgen  In 
six  months  six  squaws  were  shot  by' red  Othellos  for  yielding 
their  virtue  to  the  fascinations  of  tobacco,  whisky,  and  blanketsl 
the  Lotharios  were  savage  as  well  as  civilized.  The  operation  of 
courting  IS  performed  by  wrapping  a  blanket  round  one's  be- 
loved; It  she  reciprocates,  it  is  a  sign  of  consent.  A  refusal  in 
these  lands  IS  often  a  serious  business;  the  warrior  collects  his 
friends,  carries  off  the  recusant  fair,  and,  after  subjecting  her  to 
the  insults  of  all  his  companions,  espouses  her.  There  is  little 
ot  the  shame  which  Pliny  attributes  to  the  "Barrus."  When  a 
death  takes  place  they  wrap  the  body  in  a  skin  or  hide,  and  drag 
It  by  the  }c^  to  a  grave,  which  is  heaped  up  with  stones  as  a  pro- 
tection against  wild  beasts.  They  mourn  till  the  end  of  that 
moon,  allow  a  month  to  elapse,  and  then  resume  their  lamenta- 
tions tor  another  moon:  the  interval  is  gradually  increased  till 
the  grief  ends.  It  is  usual  to  make  the  dead  mane's  lodge  appear 
as  desolitc  as  possible.  '■'■ 

The  Yuta  is  less  servile,  and,  consequently,  has  a  higher  ethnic 
status  than  the  Afncan  negro;  he  will  not  toil,  and  he  turns  at  a 
kick  or  a  blow.  The  emigrant  who  addresses  him  in  the  usual 
phrase,  D—  your  eyes,  git  out  of  the  road  or  I'll  shoot  you  1"  is 
pretty  sure  to  come  to  grief  Lately  the  Yutas  demanded  com- 
pensation for  tlic  use  of  their  grass  ui)on  the  Truckce  River,  when 
the  emigrants  fired,  killing  Wanamuka  the  chief  After  the  death 
ot  two  or  three  whites,  .Mayor  Ormsby,  of  the  militia  at  Carson 
Valley,  took  the  field,  was  decoyed  into  a  kanyon  by  Indian  cun- 
ning, and  perished  with  all  his  men. 

The  morning  was  wasted  in  binding  two  loose  tires  uiion  their 
respective  wheels :  it  was  past  noon  before  we  were  en  route  Wo 
shook  hands  cordiallv  with  Uncle  Billy,  whose  gcnerosity-a  vir- 
tue highly  prized  by  those  who,  rarely  practicing,  expect  it  to  be 
practiced  upon  them— has  won  for  him  the  sobriquet  of  the  "  Big- 


« 


480 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


hearted  Father."  He  had  vainly,  however,  attempted  to  rescue 
my  silver  pen-holder,  whose  glitter  was  too  much  for  Indian  vir- 
tue. Our  route  lay  over  a  long  divide,  cold  but  not  unpictur- 
esque,  a  scene  of  light-tinted  mountain  mahogany,  black  cedar, 
pure  snowy  hill,  and  pink  sky.  After  ten  miles  we  reached  the 
place  where  the  road  forks;  that  to  the  right,  passing  through 
Pine  Valley,  falls  into  the  gravelly  ford  of  the  Humboldt  Kiver, 
distant  from  this  point  eighty  to  eighty-five  miles.  After  sur- 
mounting the  water-shed  we  descended  over  bench-land  into  a 
raw  and  dreary  plain,  in  which  greasewood  was  more  plentiful 
than  sage-bush.  "  Huntingdon  Valley"  is  traversed  by  Smith's 
Fork,  which  flows  northward  to  the  Humboldt  Eiver ;  when  we 
crossed  it  it  was  a  mere  rivulet.  Our  camping-ground  was  at  the 
farther  end  of  the  plain,  under  a  Pass  called  after  the  chief  Cho- 
kop ;  the  kanyon  emitted  a  cold  draught  like  the  breathing  caves 
of  Kentucky.  Wo  alighted  at  a  water  near  the  entrance,  and 
found  bunch-grass,  besides  a  little  fuel.  After  two  hours  the 
wagon  came  up  with  the  stock,  which  was  now  becoming  weary, 
and  wo  had  the  usual  supper  of  dough,  butter,  and  coffee.  I 
should  have  slept  comfortaoly  enough  upon  a  shovel  and  a  layer 
of  carpet-bags  had  not  the  furious  south  wind  howled  like  the 
distant  whooping  of  Indians. 

To  the  Wilderness  again.     9M  October. 

The  frosty  night  was  followed  by  a  thaw  in  the  morning.  We 
hastened  to  ascend  Chokop's  Pass  by  a  bad,  steep  dugway :  it  lies 
south  of  "  Railroad  Kanyon,"  wliich  is  said  to  be  nearly  flat-soled. 
A  descent  led  into  "  Moonshine,"  called  by  the  Yutas  Pahannap 
Valley,  and  we  saw  with  pleasure  the  bench  rising  at  the  foot  of 
the  pass.  The  station  is  named  Diamond  Springs,  from  an  eye 
of  warm,  but  sweet  and  beautifully  clear  water  bubbling  up  from 
the  earth.  A  little  below  it  drains  off  in  a  deep  rushy  ditch,  with 
a  gravel  bottom,  containing  equal  parts  of  comminuted  shells:  we 
found  it  an  agreeable  and  opportune  bath.  Hard  work  had  be- 
gun to  tell  upon  the  temper  of  the  party.  The  judge,  who  ever 
preferred  monologue  to  dialogue,  aweary  of  the  rolling  prairies 
and  barren  plains,  the  bald  and  rocky  ridges,  the  muddy  flats, 
saleratus  ponds,  and  sandy  wastes,  sighed  monotonously  for  the 
woodland  shades  and  the  rustling  of  liying  leaves  near  his  Ponn- 
sylvanian  home.  The  marshal,  with  true  Anglo-American  impet- 
uosity, could  not  endure  Paddy  Kennedy's  "  slow  and  shyurc" 
style  of  travel ;  and  after  a  colloquy,  in  which  the  holiest  of 
words  were  freely  used  as  adjectives,  participles,  and  exclama- 
tions, offered  to  fight  him  by  way  of  quickening  his  pace.  The 
boys — four  or  five  in  number — ate  for  breakfast  a  quarter  of  beef, 
as  though  they  had  been  Kaffirs  or  p]squimaux,  and  were  threat- 
ened with  ration-cutting.  The  station  folks  were  Mormons,  but 
not  particularly  civil :  they  afterward  had  to  fly  before  the  sav- 


Chap.  XIH.       SHEAWIT  CREEK.-THE  WHITE-KNIVES.  481 

S'uto'n  ?het^^'  ^'^^  ""^  ^^  P^--^  *«  --der  a  '< judg- 

black  where  it  overlies  mud,  and  bkrl|^^^^^^^^  ^^^^ll 

and  shells  form  the  bottom :  the  taste  is  sulphury,  and  f  abounds 
m  conferva  and  ammalcula^  like  leeches  an5  little  tadpo  es      A  ft 
er  playmg  a  tidy  bowie-knife,  we  remounted,  and  passed  ovetto 
the  rough  divide  lying  westward  of  Moonshine  Valley     As  nTit 

See    Sen^trw'r^f  .T^  ^^'''''y  '^  ^^^--/'-^  --P-g- 
piace    at  length  we  pitched  upon  a  prairillon  under  the  lee  of  a 

h  iw'I^''/!^^  bunch-grasi  and  fuel,  but  no  water     The  wind 
blew  sternly  through  the  livelong  night,  and  those  who  suS 

bXyTe'p!""  '"''  '"'  '^'  ^'"^ '*°  '°  ^^*^  *^^ "  --t  rTstoTet 

At  6  AM.  the  mercury  was  sunk  o;i^To'29n.,  but^  eie- 
yation  and  rapid  evaporation,  with  the  fierce  gusty  wkd  cou^- 
a!  Sn".l^^  *i'  kanyon,  rendered  the  sensatio?  of^cdd  paS 
As  usual  on  these  occasions,  "George,"  our  chef  sensiBlv  nrp 
erred  standing  over  the  fire,  and  enwfapping  hfmSlf  wi  Kk^^^ 
to  the  inevitable  exposure  incurred  while  fetching  a  coffecTt  o; 
a  tea-kettle.     A  long  divide,  with  many  ascents  Ind  desceS?s  Z 
length  placed  in  front  of  us  a  view  of  the  normal  "dfstance''- 
heaps  of  hills,  wh,te  as  bridal  cakes,  and,  nearer,  a  sand-l  kTpLin 
somewhat  more  vellow  than  the  average  of  those  salt-bottoms' 
mstinct  told  us  tLat  there  lay  the  station-house.     From  the  hTlh 
rose  the  smokes  of  Indian  fires:  the  lands  belong  to  the  W 
wichya,  or  White-Kmves,  a  band  of  the  Shoshonees  under  an  in- 

t To"  W  llow  rro^.l "  ^P'T'"  ^^  ^^r ^^  '^  *1-  Yutas  as  Shea- 
wit,  or  Willow  Creek:  the  whites  call  it,  from  Mr.  Bolivar  Rob- 
erts, the  Western  agent,  "Roberts'  Springs  Valley  ''Itlies  286 

s^nSs'^rtoteF^'^'r  'T^""^  4"^'  ''sfmpson'sRoad" 
strikes  ott  to  the  S.F.,  and  as  Mr.  Howard  Egan's  ru  e  here  termi- 
nates it  is  considered  the  latter  end  of  Mo^mondom.  Like  dl 
the  stations  to  the  westward,  that  is  to  sav,  those  now  before  us 

pa7thll';Sbui?t'"  o"  '"'^r  I-^;- t-^Wes,  and  h^s  o^l/been' 
partially  rebuilt.  One  of  the  emplo>/es  was  Mr.  Mose  Wri4t  of 
llhi^ois,  who  again  kindly  assisted  me  with  correcting  my  vocab- 

About  the  station  loitered  several  Indians  of  the  Wliitc-Knifc 
tribe,  which  boasts,  hko  the  old  Sioux  and  the  modern  Fatheads 
never  to  have  stained  its  weapons  with  the  blood  of  a  white  mau 
n  "if    V  '^  ^^'^P^^^'-^We  race,  but  they  are  an  u-ly      hev  r": 
cmblo  the  1  ,ggors,  and  the  children  are  not  a  little  liL   uvenilo 
baboons.     The  dross  was  the  usual  medley  of  rag    mic   rabbk 
ars:  they  wore  strcak.vl  with  vermilion;  and  thdr  hair-con 
trary  to,  and  more  sensibly  than  the  practice  of  our  ^randfatW 

Mil  "- 


•'.4 


482 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


— was  fastened  into  a  frontal  pigtail,  to  prevent  it  falling  into  the 
eyes.  These  men  attend  upon  the  station  and  herd  the  stoclc  for 
an  occasional  meal,  their  sole  payment.  They  will  trade  their 
skins  and  peltries  for  arms  and  gunpowder,  but,  African-like, 
they  are  apt  to  look  upon  provisions,  beads,  and  tobacco  in  the 
light  of  presents. 

A  long  march  of  thirty-five  miles  lay  before  us.  Kennedy  re- 
solved to  pass  the  night  at  Sheawit  Creek,  and,  despite  their  grum- 
bling, sent  on  the  boys,  the  stock,  and  the  wagons,  when  rested 
from  their  labor,  in  the  early  afternoon.  We  spent  a  cosy,  pleas- 
ant evening — such  as  I  have  enjoyed  in  the  old  Italian  days  be- 
fore railroads — of  travelers'  tittle  and  Munchausen  tattle,  in  the 
ingle  comer  and  round  the  huge  hearth  of  the  half-finished  sta- 
tion, with  its  holey  walls.  At  intervals,  the  roarings  of  the  wind, 
the  ticking  of  the  death-watch  (a  well-known  xylophagus),  boring 
a  home  in  the  soft  cotton-wood  rafters,  and  the  howlings  of  the 
Indians,  who  were  keening  at  a  neighboring  grave,  formed  a  rude 
and  appropriate  chorus.  Mose  Wright  recounted  his  early  ad- 
ventures in  Oregon ;  how,  when  he  was  a  greenhorn,  the  Indians 
had  danced  the  war-dance  under  his  nose,  had  then  set  upon  his 
companions,  and,  after  slaying  them,  had  displayed  their  scalpe. 
He  favored  us  with  a  representation  of  the  ceremony,  an  ursine 
performance — the  bear  seems  every  where  to  have  been  the  sire 
of  Terpsichore — while  the  right  hand  repeatedly  clapped  to  his 
lips  quavered  the  long  loud  howl  into  broken  sounds :  "  Howh ! 
howh !  howh !  ow !  ow !  ough !  ougli !  aloo !  aloo !  loo  I  loo !  oo  1" 
We  talked  of  a  curious  animal,  a  breed  between  the  dog  and  the 
bear,  which  represents  the  semi-fabulous  jumard  in  these  regions: 
it  is  said  to  be  a  cross  far  more  savage  than  that  between  the  dog 
and  the  wolf.  The  young  grizzly  is  a  favorite  pet  in  the  West- 
ern hut,  and  a  canine  graft  is  hardly  more  monstrous  than  the 
progeny  of  the  horse  and  the  deer  lately  exhibited  in  London. 
I  still  believe  that  in  Africa,  and  indeed  in  India,  there  are  acci- 
dentally mules  bimanous  and  quadrumanous,  and  would  suggest 
that  such  specimens  should  be  sought  as  the  means  of  settling  on 
a  rational  basis  the  genus  and  species  of  "  homo  sapiens." 

Mose  Wright  described  the  Indian  arrow-poison.  The  rattle- 
snake— the  copperhead  and  the  moccasin  he  ignored — is  caught 
with  a  forked  stick  planted  over  its  neck,  and  is  allowed  to  fix  its 
fangs  in  an  antelope's  liver.  The  meat,  which  turns  green,  is  car- 
ried upon  a  skewer  when  wanted  for  use:  the  flint-head  of  an  ar- 
row, made  purposely  to  break  in  the  wound,  is  thrust  into  the 
poison,  and  when  withdrawn  is  covered  with  a  thin  coat  of  glue. 
Ammonia  is  considered  a  cure  for  it,  and  the  Indians  treat  snake- 
bites with  the  actual  cautery.  The  rattlesnake  here  attains  a 
length  of  eight  to  nine  feet,  and  is  described  as  haviiig  reached 
the  number  of  seventy-three  rattles,  which,  supposing  (as  the  the- 
ory is)  that  after  the  third  year  it  puts  forth  one  per  annum,  would 


Chap.  XIII.       ST.  MARTIN'S  SUMMER.-<.DRY  CREEK."  433 

raise  its  age  to  that  of  man :  it  is  much  feared  in  Utah  Territorv 
We  were  also  cautioned  against  the  poison  oak  Xh  is  wS 
than  the  poison  vine  east  of  the  Mississippi.  It'ila  dwarf  buS 
with  quercine  leaves,  dark  colored  and  prickly  like  tCe  of  the 
holly :  the  effect  of  a  sting,  of  a  touch,  or,  it  is^said'  in  sensitiles 
of  Its  proximity  is  a  painful  itching,  followed  by  a  rash  thnt  last^ 
three  weeks,  and  other  highly  inconvenient  consequences  Strong 
bnne  was  recommended  to  us  by  our  prairie  doctor  ^ 

rr^^^'^'^^f        '^P^y^'  of  t^ie  station  was  an  intelligent  young 
mechanic  from  Pennsylvania,  who,  threatened  with  consumptLn 
had  sought  and  soon  found  health  in  the  pure  regions  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.     He  looked  forward  to  revisitinSization 

like  tea  and  coffee  are  often  unprocurable;  a  dudeen  or  a  cuttv 
K  "f:  fr,\^«"^^'  consequent^  a  holloaed  potato  or  corn  cS 
with  a  reed  tube  is  often  rendered  necessary;  and  tobacco  must 
be  mixed  with  a  myrtaceous  leaf  called  by  the  natives  "tima^a" 

or^KrlT"'t'er"''^"^''7P^^^^^^^^ 

n  vJn/.l  Newspapers  and  magazines  arrive  sometimes  twice 

a  year,  when  they  have  weathered  the  dangers  of  the  way.  W 
omy  has  deprived  the  stations  of  their  gardens,  and  the  shrink  W 

?nirt?.f '°"'  ^^^«^r^  ^"^.^^^^  ^'''«^^^^^'  i"«tead  of  flowing"^ 
full  stream  westward,  leaves  the  exiles  to  amuse  themselves. 

We  arose  early,  and  found  that  it  had  S>?^fSed^'^hSe. 
were  busy  m  the  station-house ;  and  that  the  snow,  though  thick 
on  the  northern  faces,  had  melted  from  the  southern  shoulders  of 
the  hills— these  were  so  many  indices  of  the  St.  Martin's,  or  In- 
dian summer,  the  last  warm  glow  of  life  before  the  cold  and  pal- 

iollnwi  ""^'^^r^    ^'  ^  ^u^-  '''  ^"*^^^d  *^^  ambulance,  Ld 
fo  owed  a  good  road  across  the  remains  of  the  long,  broad  Shea- 
wit  Valley.     After  twelve  miles  we  came  upon  a  wSer  surround- 
ed by  willows,  with  dwarf  artemisia  beyond- it  grows  better  on 
the  benches,  where  the  subsoil  is  damper,  than  in  the  bottoms— 
and  there  we  found  our  lazy  boys,  who,  as  Jim  Gilston  said,  had 
been  last  night  'on  a  drunk."     Resuming  our  way,  after  three 
miles  we  reached  some  wells  whose  alkaline  waters  chap  the  skin 
1  wenty  miles  farther  led  to  the  west  end  of  the  Sheawit  Vallev" 
where  we  found  the  station  on  a  grassy  bench  at  the  foot  of  low 
rolJing  hills.     It  was  a  mere  shell,  with  a  substantial  stone  corral 
behind,  and  the  inmates  were  speculating  upon  the  possibilitv  of 
roofing  themselves  in  before  the  winter.     Water  is  found  in  tol- 
erable quantities  below  the  station,  but  the  place  deserved  its 
name,  "  Dry  Creek. ' 

A  fraternal  recognition  took  place  between  Long  Jim  and  his 
brother,  who  discovered  each  other  by  the  merest  accident.  Gil- 
ston, the  employe,  was  an  intelligent  man :  at  San  Francisco  he 


'(' 


i 


484 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


had  learned  a  little  Chinese,  and  at  Deep  Creek  he  was  studying 
the  Indian  dialects.  He  had  missed  making  a  fortune  at  Carson 
Valley,  where,  in  June  or  July,  1859,  the  rich  and  now  celebrated 
silver  mines  were  discovered ;  and  he  warned  us  against  the  dan- 
ger of  tarrying  in  Carson  City,  where  revolvers  are  fired  even 
into  houses  known  to  contain  "ladies."  Colonel  Totten,  the  sta- 
tion-master, explained  the  formation  of  the  gold  diggings  as  beds 
of  gravel,  from  one  to  120  feet,  overlying  slate  rock. 

Dry-Creek  Station  is  on  the  eastern  frontier  of  the  western 
agency  ;  as  at  Roberts'  Creek,  supplies  and  literature  from  Great 
Salt  City  east  and  Carson  City  west  are  usually  exhausted  before 
they  reach  these  final  points.  After  a  frugal  feed,  we  inspected  a 
grave  for  two,  which  bore  the  names  of  Loscier  and  Applegate, 
and  the  date  21st  of  May.  These  men,  employes  of  the  station, 
were  attacked  by  Indians  —  Panaks  or  Shoshonees,  or  possibly 
both :  the  former  was  killed  by  the  first  fire ;  the  latter,  when  shot 
in  the  groin,  and  unable  to  proceed,  borrowed,  under  pretext  of 
defense,  a  revolver,  bade  good-by  to  his  companions,  and  put  a 
bullet  through  his  own  head :  the  remainder  then  escaped.  Both 
these  poor  fellows  remain  unavenged.  The  Anglo-American, 
who  is  admirably  protected  by  the  officials  of  his  government  in 
Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  is  systematically  neglected — teste  Mex- 
in  America.     The  double  grave,  piled  up  with  stones,  show- 


ico 


ed  gaps  where  the  wolves  had  attempted  to  tunnel,  and  blue-bottle 
flies  were  buzzing  over  it  in  expectation.  Colonel  Totten,  at  our 
instance,  promised  that  it  should  be  looked  to. 

The  night  was  comfortably  passed  at  Dry  Creek,  under  the  lee- 
ward side  of  a  large  haystack.     The  weather  was  cold,  but  clear 


and  bright. 


We  slept  the  sleep  of  the  just. 


To  Simpson's  Park.     12th  October, 

At  the  time  of  the  cold  clear  dawn,  whose  gray  contrasted 
strongly  with  the  blush  of  the  most  lovely  evening  that  preceded 
it,  the  mercury  stood  at  45°  F.  Shortly  after  8  A.M.  we  were 
afield,  hastening  to  finish  the  long  divide  that  separates  Roberts' 
Creek  Valley  from  its  western  neighbor,  which,  as  yet  unchristcn- 
ed,  is  known  to  the  b'hoys  as  Smoky  Valley.  The  road  wound  in 
the  shape  of  the  letter  tJ  round  the  impassable  part  of  the  ridge. 
Crossing  the  north  end  of  Smoky  Valley,  we  came  upon  rolling 
ground,  with  water-willows  and  cedars  "  blazed" — barked  with  a 
gash — for  sign-posts.  Ensued  a  long  kanyon,  with  a  flat  sole,  not 
unlike  Egan's,  a  gate  by  which  the  swift  shallow  stream  had  bro- 
ken through  the  mountains :  in  places  it  was  apparently  a  cul  ck 
sac;  in  others,  shoulder  after  shoulder  rose  in  long  perspective, 
with  points  and  projections  behind,  which  an  enemy  might  easily 
turn.  The  granite  walls  were  of  Cyclopean  form,  with  regular 
lines  of  cleavage,  as  in  the  Rattlesnake  Hills,  which  gave  a  false 
air  of  stratification.    The  road  was  a  mere  path  along  and  across 


Chap.  XIII. 


SIMPSON'S  PARK. 


485 


the  rivulet  bed,  and  the  lower  slopes  were  garnished  with  the  pep- 
per-grass and  the  everlasting  bunch-grass,  so  truly  characteristic 
of  the  "  Basin  State."  Above  us,  in  the  pellucid  sky,  towered  the 
eagle  in  his  pride  of  place ;  the  rabbit  ran  before  us  from  the 
thicket ;  the  ground-squirrel  cached  himself  in  the  sage-bush ;  and 
where  distance  appeared,  smokes  upcurling  in  slow,  heavy  masses 
told  us  that  man  was  not  far  distant.  A  second  divide,  more  ab- 
rupt than  the  former,  placed  us  in  sight  of  Simpson's  Park— and 
such  a  park !  a  circlet  of  tawny  stubble,  embosomed  in  sage-grown 
hills,  the  "  Ilir^"  or  "  Look-out,"  and  others,  without  other  tree 
but  the  deformed  cedars.  The  bottom  is  notorious  for  cold ;  it 
freezes  even  in  June  and  July ;  and  our  night  was,  as  may  be 
imagined,  none  of  the  pleasantest. 

The  station-house  in  Simpson's  Park  was  being  rebuilt.  As 
we  issued  from  Morinondom  into  Christendom,  the  civility  of  our 
hosts  perceptibly  diminished;  the  judge,  like  the  generality  of 
Anglo-Americans,  did  unnecessary  kow-tow  to  those  whom  re- 
publicanism made  his  equals,  and  the  "  gentlemen,"  when  asked 
to  do  any  thing,  became  exceedingly  surly.  Among  them  was 
one  Giovanni  Brutisch,  a  Venetian,  w'ho,  flying  from  conscription, 
had  found  a  home  in  Halifax :  an  unfortunate  fire,  which  burned 
down  his  house,  drove  him  to  the  Far  West.  He  talked  copious- 
ly of  the  Old  Country,  breathed  the  usual  aspirations  oi Italia  una, 

and  thought  that  Garibaldi  would  do  well  "  se  non  lo  molestano'^ 

a  euphuism  accompanied  by  a  look  more  expressive  than  any  nod. 
The  station  was  well  provided  with  good  minids,  and  the  men  ap- 
parently expected  to  use  them ;  it  was,  however,  commanded  by 
the  neighboring  heights,  and  the  haystacks  were  exposed  to  fire 
at  a  time  of  the  year  when  no  more  forage  could  be  collected. 
The  Venetian  made  for  us  some  good  light  bread  of  wheaten 
flour,  started  or  leavened  with  hop-water,  and  corn-bread  "  short- 
ened" with  butter,  and  enriched  with  two  or  three  eggs.  A  hid- 
eous Pa  Yuta  and  surly  Shoshonee,  whom  I  sketched,  loitered 
about  the  station:  they  were  dressed  in  the  usual  rabbit-skin 
cape,  and  carried  little  horn  bows,  with  which  they  missed  small 
marks  at  fifteen  paces.  The  boys,  who  were  now  aweary  of 
watching,  hired  one  of  these  men  for  a  shirt — tobacco  was  not  to 
be  had,  and  a  blanket  was  too  high  pay — to  mount  guard  through 
the  night.  Like  the  Paggi  or  Ramoosee  of  Western  India,  one 
thief  is  paid  to  keep  off  many :  the  Indian  is  the  best  of  wardens, 
it  being  with  him  a  principle  not  to  attack  what  the  presence  of 
a  fellow-tribesman  defends. 

To  Reese's  River.     13th  October. 

Simpson's  Park  lies  195  miles  from  Carson  City,  where  we 
might  consider  the  journey  at  an  end ;  yet  the  cold  of  night  did 
not  allow  us  to  set  out  before  10  A.M.  Our  route  lay  across  the 
park,  which  was  dotted  with  wheat-grass  and  broom-like  reeds 
rising  from  a  ground  saupoudrc  like  salt.    Presently  wc  began 


mU 


M(^ 


486 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIH. 


to  ascend  Simpson's  Pass,  a  long  kanyon  whose  sloping  sides  and 
benches  were  dotted  with  the  green  bunch-grass.  At  the  divide 
we  found  the  "  Sage  Springs,"  whose  position  is  too  elevated  for 
the  infiltration  of  salt :  they  are  consequently  sweet  and  whole- 
some. Descending  by  a  rugged  road,  we  sighted  every  where  on 
the  heights  the  fires  of  the  natives.  They  were  not  symbols  of 
war,  but  signals — for  which  smokes  are  eminently  adapted — made 
by  tribes  telegraphing  to  one  another  their  being  en  route  for  their 
winter  quarters.  Below  us,  "  Eeese's  Eiver"  Valley  might  ha\  a 
served  for  a  sketch  in  the  African  desert:  a  plain  of  saleratus, 
here  yellow  with  sand  or  hay,  there  black  with  fire,  there  brown 
where  the  skin  of  earth  showed  through  her  garb  of  rags,  and  be- 
yond it  were  chocolate -colored  hills,  from  whose  heads  curled 
blue  smokes  of  volcanic  appearance. 

Bisecting  the  barren  plain  ran  a  bright  little  stream,  whose 
banks,  however,  had  been  stripped  of  their  "  salt  grass :"  pure  and 
clear  it  flows  over  a  bed  of  gravel,  sheds  in  a  northerly  direction, 
and  sinks  at  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles.  From  afar  we  all 
mistook  the  course,  deceived,  as  travelers  often  are,  by  t'  >«  hori- 
zontality  of  the  lines.  Leaving  on  the  right  the  road  which  forks 
to  the  lower  ford,  we  followed  that  on  the  left  hand  leading  to  the 
station.  There  can  not  be  much  traveling  upon  these  lines :  the 
tracks  last  for  years,  unaffected  by  snow :  the  carcasses  of  animals, 
however,  no  longer  mummified  us  as  in  the  Eastern  prairies,  are 
readily  reduced  to  skeletons. 

The  station-house  in  the  Reese-River  Valley  had  lately  been 
evacuated  by  its  proprietors  and  burnt  down  by  the  Indians :  a 
new  building  of  adobe  was  already  assuming  a  comfortable  shape. 
The  food  around  it  being  poor  and  thin,  our  cattle  were  driven 
to  the  mountains.  At  night,  probably  by  contrast  with  the  tor- 
rid sun,  the  frost  appeared  colder  than  ever:  we  provided  against 
it,  however,  by  burrowing  into  the  haystack,  and,  despite  the 
jackal-like  cry  of  the  coyote  and  the  near  tramping  of  the  old 
white  mare,  we  slept  like  tops. 


To  Smith' g  Creek.     Uth  October. 

Before  8  A.M.  wo  were  under  way,  bound  for  Smith's  Creek. 
Our  path  stretclicd  over  the  remainder  of  Reese's  River  Valley, 
an  expanse  of  white  sage  and  large  rabbit-bush  which  aftbrds  fuel 
oven  when  green.  After  a  long  and  peculiarly  rough  divide,  we 
sighted  the  place  of  our  destination.  It  lay  beyond  a  broad 
plain  or  valley,  like  a  huge  white  "splotch"  in  the  centre,  set  in 
dirty  brown  vegetation,  backed  by  bare  and  rugged  hills,  whicli 
are  8now-topp(!a  only  on  the  north ;  presently  wo  reached  the 
"splotch,"  which  changed  its  aspect  from  that  of  a  muddy  pool 
to  a  yellow  floor  of  earth  so  hard  that  the  wheels  scarcely  made 
a  dent,  except  where  a  \hU\t  inundation  had  caused  the  mud  to 


..fl. 


H.y 


Chap. XIII.     "OLE  HELLION."— COLD-SPRINGS  STATION. 


487 


yond  that  point,  guided  by  streams  meandering  through  willow- 
thickets,  we  entered  a  kanyon — all  are  now  wearying  of  the  name 
— and  presently  sighted  the  station  deep  in  a  hollow.  It  had  a 
good  stone  corral  and  the  usual  haystack,  which  fires  on  the  hill- 
tops seemed  to  menace.  Among  the  station-folks  we  found'  two 
New  Yorkers,  a  Belfast  man,  and  a  tawny  Mexican  named  Anton, 
who  had  passed  his  life  riding  the  San  Bernardino  road.  The 
house  was  unusually  neat,  and  displayed  even  signs  of  decoration 
in  the  adornment  of  the  bunks  with  osier-work  taken  from  the 
neighboring  creek.  We  are  now  in  the  lands  of  the  Pa  Yuta, 
and  rarely  fail  to  meet  a  party  on  the  road :  they  at  once  propose 
"shwop,"  and  readily  exchange  pine  nuts  for  "  white  grub,"  ■/.  e., 
biscuits.  I  observed,  however,  that  none  of  the  natives  were  al- 
lowed to  enter  the  station-house,  whereas  in  other  places,  espe- 
cially among  the  Mormons,  the  savages  squeezed  themselves  into 
the  room,  took  the  best  seats  near  the  fire,  and  never  showed  a 
symptom  of  moving. 

To  Cold  Sjrrings.     \f>th  October. 

After  a  warmer  night  than  usual— thanks  to  fire  and  lodging 
— we  awoke,  and  found  a  genial  south  wind  blowing.  Our  road 
lay  through  the  kanyon,  whose  floor  was  flush  with  the  plain ; 
the  bed  of  the  mountain  stream  was  the  initiative  of  vile  travel- 
ing, which,  without  our 'suspecting  it,  was  to  last  till  the  end  of 
the  journey.  The  strain  upon  the  vehicle  came  near  to  smasliing 
it,  and  the  prudent  Kennedy,  with  the  view  of  sparing  his  besl 
animals,  gave  us  his  worst — two  aged  brutes,  one  of  which,  in  con- 
sequence of  her  sciuealing  habits,  had  won  for  herself  the  title  of 
''ole  Hellion."  The  divortia  aquarum  was  a  fine  water-shed  to 
the  westward,  and  the  road  was  in  V  shape,  whereas  before  it  had 
oscillated  between  U  and  WW.  As  we  ])rogresscd,  however,  the 
valleys  became  more  and  more  desert,  the  sage  more  stunted,  and 
the  hills  more  brown  and  barren.  After  a  midday  halt,  rendered 
compulsory  by  the  old  white  mare,  we  resumed  our  way  along 
the  valley  southward,  over  a  mixture  of  ])itch-hole  and  boulder, 
which  forbids  mo  to  forget  that  day's  journey.  At  last,  after 
much  sticking  and  kicking  on  the  part  of  the  cattle,  and  the  men- 
tal refreshment  of  abundant  bad  language,  self-adhibited  by  the 
men,  we  made;  Cold-Snrings  Station,  which,  by  means  of  a  cut 
across  the  hills,  could  be  brought  within  eight  miles  of  Smith's 
Creek. 

The  station  was  a  wretched  place,  half  buift  and  wholly  nn- 
roofinl ;  the  four  boys,  an  exc(>edingly  rough  set,  ate  stiuiding,  and 
neither  paper  nor  jiencil  was  known  among  them.  Our  animals, 
however,  found  good  water  in  a  rivulet  from  the  neighboring  hills. 
and  the  ])romise  of  a  plentiful  feed  on  the  morrow,  while  the  hu- 
mans, observing  tliat  a  "beef"  had  been  freshly  killed,  supped 
npoTi  an  excellent  steak.  The  warm  wind  was  a  pleasant  con- 
IFust  to  liiO  UaUui  fiuai,  bul,  un  it  cuuio  from  the  south,  nil  the 


\i 


M 


488 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


weather-wise  predicted  tbat  rain  would  result.  We  slept,  how- 
ever, without  such  accident,  under  the  haystack,  and  heard  the 
loud  howling  of  the  wolves,  which  are  said  to  be  larger  on  these 
hills  than  elsewhere. 

To  Sand  Springs.     IGth  October. 

In  the  morning  the  wind  had  shifted  from  the  south  to  a  more 
pluvial  quarter,  the  southeast — in  these  regions  the  westerly  wind 
promises  the  fairest — and  stormy  cirri  mottled  the  sky.  We  had 
a  long  stage  of  thirty-five  miles  before  us,  and  required  an  early 
start,  yet  the  lazy  b'hoys  and  the  weary  cattle  saw  10  A.M.  be- 
fore we  were  en  route.  Simpson's  road  lay  to  our  south ;  we  could, 
however,  sight,  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  station,  the  east- 
ernmost formation,  which  he  calls  Gibraltar  Gate.  For  the  first 
three  miles  our  way  was  exceedingly  rough;  it  gradually  im- 
proved into  a  plain  cut  with  nullahs,  and  overgrown  with  a  chap- 
paral,  which  concealed  a  few  "burrowing  hares."  The  animals 
are  rare ;  during  the  snow  they  are  said  to  tread  in  one  another's 
trails  after  Indian  fashion,  yet  the  huntsman  easily  follows  them. 
After  eight  miles  we  passed  a  spring,  and  two  miles  beyond  it 
came  to  the  Middle  Gate,  where  we  halted  from  noon  till  5  15 
.P.M.  Water  was  found  in  the  bed  of  a  river  which  fills  like  k 
mill-dam  after  rain,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  bunch-grass,  whose 
dark  seeds  it  was  difficult  to  husk  out  of  the  oat-like  capsules.  We 
spent  our  halt  in  practicing  what  Sorrentines  call  la  caca'a  degV 
ncceUuzzi,  and  in  vain  attempts  to  walk  round  the  uncommonly 
wary  hawks,  crows,  and  wolves. 

liitching  to  as  the  sun  neared  the  western  horizon,  we  passed 
through  the  Gate,  narrowly  escaping  a  "spill"  down  a  dwarf  preci- 
pice. A  plain  bounded  on  our  left  by  cretaceous  blufts,  white  as 
snow,  led  to  the  West  Gate,  two  symmetrical  projections  like  those 
farther  eastward.  After  that  began  a  long  divide  broken  by  fre- 
quent chuck-holes,  which,  however,  had  no  cunette  at  the  bottom. 
An  ascent  of  five  miles  led  to  a  second  broad  basin,  whose  white 
and  sounding  ground,  now  stony,  then  sandy,  scattered  over  with 
carcass  and  skeleton,  wjis  bounded  in  front  by  low  dark  ranges 
of  hill.  Tiien  crossing  a  long  rocky  divide,  so  winding  that  the 
mules'  heads  point-ed  within  a  few  miles  to  N.,  S.,  E.,  and  W.,  we 
descended  by  narrow  nasses  into  a  plain.  Tlie  eye  could  not  dis- 
tinguish it  from  a  lake,  so  misty  and  vague  were  its  outlines: 
other  senses  corrected  vision,  when  we  sank  up  to  the  hub  in  the 
loose  sand.  As  we  progressed  painfully,  broken  clay  and  dwarf 
vegetation  assumed  in  the  dim  shades  fantastic  and  mysterious 
forma.  I  thought  myself  once  more  among  the  ruins  of  that  Arab 
village  concerning  which  Lebid  sang, 

"  Ay  mo !  ay  me  !  all  lone  nnd  ilrear  tho  dwollinp-plnro,  the  home- 
On  Minn,  o'er  Uijnm  «iul  Ghool,  wiKl  iH-imtN  unhccdiul  nmm." 

Tired  out  and  erampcMl  with  cold,  we  were  torpid  with  what 
the  Bedouin  calls  El  Kakl — la  lii^lo  du  Desert,  when  part  of  the 


1 

i 

3  ;m 

i 

1 

1 

Chap.  XIII.        SAND-SPRINGS  STATION.-CARSON  LAKE. 


491 


brain  s  eeps  while  the  rest  is  wide  awake.  At  last,  about  2  30 
A.M.  thoroughly  "knocked  up"— a  phrase  which  I  should  ad- 
vise the  Englishman  to  eschew  in  the  society  of  the  fair  Colum- 
bian—we  sighted  a  roofless  shed,  found  a  haystack,  and,  reckless 
ot  supper  or  of  stamping  horses,  fell  asleep  upon  the  sand. 

Q      J  o      •  o       •         -1  -  .  ^^  Carson  Lake,     nth  October. 

band-bprings  fetation  deserved  its  name.  Like  the  Brazas  de 
San  Diego  and  other  viauvaises  terres  near  the  Eio  Grande,  the 
land  IS  cumbered  here  and  there  with  drifted  ridges  of  the  finest 
sand,  sometimes  200  feet  high,  and  shifting  before  every  gale. 
Behind  the  house  stood  a  mound  shaped  like  the  contents  of  an 

j^i'^ir^^'  ^"^**^^  "P  ^y  ^^^^  stormy  S.E.  gale  in  esplanade  shape, 
and  falling  steep  to  northward  or  against  the  wind.  The  water 
near  this  vile  hole  was  thick  and  stale  with  sulphury  salts :  it 
blistered  even  the  hands.  The  station-house  was  no  unfit  object 
in  such  a  scene,  roofless  and  chairless,  filthy  and  squalid,  with  a 
smoky  fire  in  one  corner,  and  a  table  in  the  centre  of  an  impure 
g)or,  the  walls  open  to  every  wind,  and  the  interior  full  of  dust. 
Hibernia  herself  never  produced  aught  more  characteristic.  Of 
the  employes,  all  loitered  and  sauntered  about  desceuvres  as  cretins, 
except  one,  who  lay  on  the  ground  crippled  and  apparently  dying 
by  the  foil  of  a  horse  upon  his  breast-bone.  ^    ^     & 

About  11  A.M.  we  set  oft' to  cross  the  ten  miles  of  valley  that 
stretched  between  us  and  the  summit  of  the  western  divide  still 
separating  us  from  Carson  Lake.     The  land  was  a  smooth  salera- 
tus  plain,  with  curious  masses  of  porous  red  and  black  basalt  pro- 
truding from  a  ghastly  white.     The  water-shed  was  apparently 
to  the  north,  the  benches  were  distinctly  marked,  and  the  bottom 
looked  as  if  it  were  inundated  every  year.     It  was  smooth  except 
where  broken  up  by  tracks,  but  all  off  the  road  was  dangerous 
ground :  in  one  place  the  horses  sank  to  their  hocks,  and  were 
not  extricated  without  difficulty.    After  a  hot  drive— the  glass 
at  9  A.M.  showed  74°  F.— we  began  to  toil  up  the  divide,  a  sand 
formation  mixed  with  bits  of  granite,  red  seeds,  and  dwarf  shells 
whose  hps  were  for  the  most  part  broken  off.     Over  the  fine  loose 
surface  was  a  floating  haze  of  the  smaller  iiarticles,  like  the  film 
that  veils  the  Arabian  desert.     Arrived  at  the  summit,  we  sighted 
for  the  first  time  Carson  Lake,  or  rather  the  sink  of  the  Carson 
River.     It  derives  its  name  from  the  well-known  mountaineer 
whose  adventurous  roamings  long  anticipated  scientific  explora- 
tion.    Sup])1ied  by  the  stream  from  tlic  eastern  flank  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  it  is  just  such  a  lake  as  might  be  formed  in  any  of  the 
basins  which  we  had  traversed- a  shallow  sheet  of  water,  which, 
in  the  cloudy  sky  and  mitigated  frlare  of  the  sun,  looked  i)ale  and 
muddy.     Apjiarently  it  was  divided  by  a  long,  narrow  ruddy 
line,  like  ochre-colorcd  snnd  ;  a  near  approach  showed  that  water 
on  the  right  was  separated  from  a  saicratus  bed  on  the  left  li"  a 


\M 


n 


492 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


thick  bed  of  tule  rush.  Stones  imitated  the  sweep  of  the  tide,  and 
white  particles  the  color  of  a  wash. 

Our  conscientious  informant  at  Sand-Springs  Station  had  warn- 
ed us  that  upon  the  summit  of  the  divide  we  should  find  a  per- 
pendicular drop,  down  which  the  wagons  could  be  lowered  only 
by  means  of  lariats  affixed  to  the  axle-trees  and  lashed  round 
strong  "stubbing -posts."  We  were  not,  however,  surprised  to 
find  a  mild  descent  of  about  30°.  From  the  summit  of  tue  divide 
five  miles  led  us  over  a  plain  too  barren  for  sage,  and  a  stretch  of 
stone  and  saleratus  to  the  watery  margin,  which  was  troublesome 
with  sloughs  and  mud.  The  cattle  relished  the  water,  although 
tainted  by  the  rush ;  we  failed,  however,  to  find  any  of  the  fresh- 
water clams,  whose  shells  were  scattered  along  the  shore. 

Eemounting  at  5  15  P.M.  we  proceeded  to  finish  the  ten  miles 
which  still  separated  us  from  the  station,  by  a  rough  and  stony 
road,  perilous  to  wheel  conveyances,  which  rounded  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  lake.  After  passing  a  promontory  whose  bold 
projection  had  been  conspicuous  from  afar,  and  threading  a  steep 
kanyon  leading  toward  the  lake,  we  fell  into  its  selvage,  which 
averaged  about  one  mile  in  breadth.  The  small  crescent  of  the 
moon  soon  ceased  to  befriend  us,  and  we  sat  in  the  sadness  of  the 
shade,  till  presently  a  light  glimmered  under  Arcturus,  the  road 
bent  toward  it,  and  all  felt  "jolly."    But, 

" IIcu,  lieu!  nos  miscros,  quam  totus  homuncio  nil  est !" 

A  long  dull  hour  still  lay  before  us,  and  we  were  approaching 
civilized  lands.  "Sink  Station"  looked  well  from  without;  there 
was  a  frame  house  inside  an  adobe  inclosure,  and  a  pile  of  wood 
and  a  stout  haystack  promised  fuel  and  fodder.  The  inmates, 
however,  were  asleep,  and  it  was  ominously  long  before  a  door 
was  opened.  At  last  appeared  a  surly  cripple,  who  presently 
disappeared  to  arm  himself  with  his  revolver.  The  judge  asked 
civilly  for  a  cup  of  water;  he  was  told  to  fetch  it  from  the  lake, 
which  was  not  more  than  a  mile  ofl^,  though,  as  t\j  road  was  full 
of  quagmires,  it  would  be  hard  to  travel  at  night.  Wood  the 
churl  would  not  part  with :  we  offered  to  buy  it,  to  borrow  it,  to 
replace  it  in  the  morning ;  he  told  us  to  go  "for  it  ourselves,  and 
that  after  about  two  miles  and  a  half  we  might  chance  to  gather 
some.  Certainly  our  party  was  a  law-abiding  and  a  self-govern- 
ing one ;  never  did  I  sec  men  so  tamely  bullied ;  they  threw  back 
the  fellow's  sticks,  and  cold,  hungry,  and  thirsty,  simply  began  to 
sulk.  An  Indian  standing  by  asked  $20  to  herd  the  stock  for  a 
single  night.  At  last,  George  the  Cordon  Blue  took  courage; 
some  went  for  water,  others  broke  up  a  wagon-plank,  and  supper 
after  a  fashion  was  concocted. 

I  preferred  passing  the  night  on  a  side  of  bacon  in  the  wagon 
to  using  the  cripple's  haystack,  and  allowed  sleep  to  stccj)  my 
sniHos  in  forgetfulness,  after  deeply  regretting  that  the  Alormons 
do  not  extend  somewhat  fartncr  westward. 


Chap.  XIII.      FORT  CHURCHILL.-FIGHTING  LAWYERS. 


493 


mi      1. 11.  J  xi.  1  ,       ^^  *'"'■'  Churchill.     18th  October. 

Lheb  hoys  and  the  stock  were  doomed  to  remain  near  the  Car- 
son Lake,  wher^  forage  was  abundant,  while  we  made  our  way  to 
Carson  Valley— an  arrangement  not  effected  without  excessive 
grumblmg.  At  last  the  deserted  ones  were  satisfied  with  the 
promise  that  they  should  exchange  their  desert  quarters  for  civ- 
ilization on  Tuesday,  and  we  were  permitted  to  start.  Crossing  a 
long  plain  bordering  on  the  Sink,  we  "snaked  up"  painfully  a 
high  divide  which  a  little  engineering  skill  would  have  avoided. 
From  the  summit,  bleak  with  west  wind,  we  could  descry,  at  a 
distance  of  fifty  miles,  a  snowy  saddle-back— the  Sierra  Nevada. 
When  the  deep  sand  had  fatigued  our  cattle,  we  halted  for  aii 
hour  to  bait  m  a  patch  of  land  rich  with  bunch-grass.  Descend- 
ing from  the  eminence,  we  saw  a  gladdening  sight:  the  Carson 
Kiver,  winding  through  its  avenue  of  dark  cotton-woods,  and  afar 
off  the  quarters  and  barracks  of  Fort  Churchill.  The  nearer  view 
was  a  hard-tamped  plain,  besprinkled  with  black  and  red  porous 
stones  and  a  sparse  vegetation,  with  the  ruddy  and  yellow  autum- 
nal hues;  a  miserable  range  of  low,  brown,  sunburnt  rocks  and 
hills  whose  ravines  were  choked  with  white  sand-drifts,  bounded 
the  basin.  The  farther  distance  used  it  as  a  foil ;  the  Sierra  de- 
veloped Itself  into  four  distinct  magnificent  tiers  of  snow-capped 
and  cloud- veiled  mountain,  whose  dissolving  views  faded  into  thin 
darkness  as  the  sun  disappeared  behind  their  gigantic  heads. 

While  we  admired  these  beauties  night  came  on ;  the  paths  in- 
tersected one  another,  and,  despite  the  glow  and  gleam  of  a  camp- 
fare  in  the  distance,  we  lost  our  way  among  the  tall  cotton-woo(fi 
Dispersing  in  search  of  information,  the  marshal  accidentally  stum- 
bled upon  his  predecessor  in  office,  Mr.  Smith,  who  hospitably  in- 
sisted upon  our  becoming  his  guests.  He  led  us  to  a  farm-house 
already  half  roofed  in  against  the  cold,  fetched  the  whisky  for 
which  our  souls  craved,  gave  to  each  a  peach  that  we  might  be 
good  boys,  and  finally  set  before  us  a  prime  beefsteak.  Before 
sleeping  we  heard  a  number  of  "shooting  stories."  Where  the 
corpse  IS,  says  the  Persian,  there  will  be  the  kites.  A  mining  dis- 
covery never  fails  to  attract  from  afar  a  flock  of  legal  vultures- 
attorneys,  lawyers,  and  judges.  As  the  most  valuable  claims  are 
mostly  parted  with  by  the  ignorant  fortunate  for  a  song,  it  is  usu- 
al to  seek  some  flaw  in  the  deed  of  sale,  and  a  large  proportion  of 
the  property  finds  its  way  into  the  pockets  of  tlie  acute  profession- 
al, who  works  on  half  profits.  Consequently,  in  these  parts  there 
If  generally  a  large  amount  of  unscrupulous  talent.  One  gentle- 
man judge  had  knived  a  waiter  and  shot  a  senator;  another,  al- 
most as  "heavy  o?i  the  shyoot,"  had  in  a  single  season  killed  one 
inan  and  wounded  another.  Afy  informants  declared  that  in  and 
about  Carson  a  dead  man  for  breakfast  was  the  rule ;  besides  ac- 
cidents i)erpetually  occurring  to  indifierent  or  to  peace-making 
parties,  they  reckoned  per  annum  fifty  murders.     In  a  peculiar 


f  ' 


'    t^ 


494 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


fit  of  liveliness,  an  intoxicated  gentleman  will  discharge  his  re- 
volver in  a  ballroom,  and  when  a  "shyooting"  begins  in  the  thin- 
walled  frame  houses,  those  not  concerned  avoid  l^llets  and  splin- 
ters by  jumping  into  their  beds.  During  my  three  days'  stay  at 
Carson  City  I  heard  of  three  murders.  A  man  "  heavy  07i  the 
shoulder,"  who  can  "hit  out  straight  from  the  hip,"  is  a  valuable 
acquisition.  The  gambler  or  professional  player,  who  in  the  East- 
ern States  is  exceptionably  peaceful,  because  he  fears  the  publicity 
of  a  quarrel,  here  must  distinguish  himself  as  a  fighting-man.  A 
curious  story  was  told  to  illustrate  how  the  ends  of  justice  might, 
at  a  pinch,  in  the  case  of  a  popular  character,  be  defeated.  A 
man  was  convicted  of  killing  his  adversary  after  saying  to  the  by- 
standers, "  Stoop  down  while  I  shoot  the  son  of  a  dog  (female)." 
Counsel  for  the  people  showed  malice  prepense  ;  counsel  for  defense 
pleaded  that  his  client  was  rectus  in  curia,  and  manifestly  couldn't 
mean  a  man,  but  a  dog.     The  judge  ratified  the  verdict  of  acquit- 

tQl. 

Such  was  the  state  of  things,  realizing  the  old  days  of  the  Cali- 
fornian  gold-diggings,  when  I  visited  in  1860  Carson  City.  Its 
misrule,  or  rather  want  of  rule,  has  probably  long  since  passed 
away,  leaving  no  more  traces  than  a  dream.  California  has  beeri 
transformed  by  her  Vigilance  Committee,  so  ignorantly  and  un- 
justly declaimed  against  in  Europe  and  in  the  Eastern  States  of 
the  Union,  from  a  savage  autonomy  to  one  of  the  most  orderly  of 
the  American  republics,  and  San  Francisco,  her  capital,  from  a  den 
of  thieves  and  prostitutes,  gamblers  and  miners,  the  offscourings 
of  nations,  to  a  social  status  not  inferior  to  any  of  the  most  favor- 
ed cities. 

™,.      ,  .„  ,        -       ,  „  Hurrah  again— in !     Wth  October. 

Ihis  day  will  be  the  last  of  my  diary.  We  have  now  emerged 
from  the  deserts  of  the  Basin  State,  and  are  debouching  upon 
lands  where  coaches  and  the  electric  telegraph  ply. 

After  a  cold  night  at  the  hospitable  Smith's,  and  losing  the  cat- 
tle, we  managed  to  hitch  to,  and  crossed,  not  without  difficulty, 
the  deep  bed  of  the  Carson  Hiver,  which  runs  over  sands  glitter- 
ing with  mica.  A  little  beyond  it  we  found  the  station-house, 
and  congratulated  ourselves  that  we  had  escaped  a  twelve  hours' 
durance  vile  in  its  atmosphere  of  rum,  korn  schnapps,  stale  tobac- 
co, ilies,  and  profane  oaths,  not  to  mention  the  chance  of  being 
"wiped  out"  in  a  "difference"  between  a  soldier  and  a  gambler,  or 
a  miner  and  a  rider. 

From  the  station-house  we  walked,  accompanied  by  a  Mr.  0.— 
who,  af^ter  being  an  editor  in  Texas,  had  become  a  mail-rider' in 
Utah  Territory  —  to  the  fort.  It  was,  upon  the  principle  of  its 
eastern  neighbors,  n  well-disposed  cantonment,  containing  quarters 
for  the  officers  and  barracks  for  the  men.  Fort  Churchill  had 
been  built  during  the  last  few  months:  it  lodged  about  two  com- 
panies of  infantry,  and  required  at  least  2000  men.    Captain  F.  F. 


Chap.  XIII. 


FORT  CHURCHILL. 


495 


is  nt?!^   '  -^^  ""^^  ^^^"^  commanding,  and  Lieutenant  Col- 
jnel  1  homas  Swords  a  deputy  quarter-master  general,  was  on  a 

T^fr.^'^'T-  .J'  ^'^'  '''-^'^^'  *°  t^«  quarter-maXs  of 
fice,  and  there  found  Lieutenant  Moore,  who  introduced  us  to  all 
present,  and  supplied  us  with  the  last  newspapers  and  news  The 
camp  was  Teetotahst,  and  avoided  cards  like  good  Moslems-  we 
were  not,  however,  expected  to  drink  water  except  in  the  form  of 
strong  waters,  and  the  desert  had  disinclined  us  to  abstain  from 
whisky.  Finally,  Mr.  Byrne,  the  sutler,  put  into  our  ambulance 
a  substantial  luncb,  with  a  bottle  of  cocktail,  and  another  of  cog- 
nac, especially  intended  to  keep  the  cold  out. 

The  dull  morning  had  threatened  snow,  and  shortly  after  noon 
the  west  wind  brought  up  cold  heavy  showers,  which  continued 
witli  intervals  to  the  end  of  the  stage.  Our  next  station  was  Mil- 
ler s,  distant  15  to  16  miles.  The  road  ran  along  the  valley  of 
Larson  Kiver,  whose  trees  were  a  repose  to  our  eyes,  and  we  con- 
gratulated ourselves  wher  -e  looked  down  the  stiff  clay  banks 
30  feet  high,  and  wholly  unfenced,  that  our  journey  was  bv  dav 
The  desert  was  now  ''  done  "  At  every  few  miles  was  a  •drink- 
ing calaboose:  '*  where  sheds  were  not  a  kettle  hung  under  a 
tree,  and  women  peeped  out  of  the  log  huts.  They  were  proba- 
bly not  charming,  but,  next  to  a  sea  voyage,  a  desert  march  is  the 
iinest  cosmetic  ever  invented.     We  looked  upon  each  as  if 

"Her  face  was  like  the  Milky  Way  i'  the  sky, 
A  meeting  of  gentle  lights  without  a  name." 

At  Miller's  Station,  which  we  reached  at  2  30  P.M.,  there  really 
^/«,^°?  r!^^"y  girl— which,  according  to  the  author  of  the  Aft 
ot  1  luck,  induces  proclivity  to  temulency.  While  the  rain  was 
heavy  we  sat  round  the  hot  stove,  eating  bread  and  cheese,  sau- 
sages and  anchovies,  which  Eabelais,  not  to  speak  of  other  honest 
drinkers,  enumerates  among  provocatives  to  thirst.  When  we 
started  at  4  P.M.  through  the  cold  rain,  along  the  bad  road  up  the 
river  bed  to  "liquor  up"  was  manifestly  a  duty  we  owed  to  our- 
selves. And,  finally,  when  my  impatient  companions  betted  a 
supper  that  we  should  reach  Carson  City  before  9  P.M.  and  seal- 
ed It  with  a  "smile,"  I  knew  that  the  only  way  to  win  was  to  ply 
Mn  Kennedy,  the  driver,  with  as  many  pocula  as  possible. 

Colder  waxed  the  weather  and  heavier  the  rain  as,  diverging 
from  the  nver,  we  ascended  the  little  bench  upon  which  China- 
town lies.  The  line  of  ranches  and  frame  houses,  a  kind  of  length- 
without-breadth  place,  once  celebrated  in  the  gold-digging  days 
looked  dreary  and  grim  in  the  evening  gloom.  At  6  30  P.m! 
we  were  still  fourteen  miles  distant  from  our  destination.  The 
benches  and  the  country  round  about  had  been  turned  topsy-turvy 
m  the  search  for  precious  metal,  and  the  soil  was  still  burrowed 

•  The  Spanish  is  calabozo,  the  French  calnbouse.  In  the  Hispano- American 
countru's  it  is  used  as  a  "common  jail"  or  a  "dog  hole, "and,  as  usual,  is  converted 
into  a  verb. 


496 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Chap.  XIII. 


with  shaft  and  tunnel,  and  crossed  at  every  possible  spot  by  flumes, 
at  which  the  natives  of  the  Flowery  Land  still  found  it  worth 
their  while  to  work.  Beyond  China-town  we  quitted  the  river, 
and  in  the  cold  darkness  of  night  we  slowly  began  to  breast  the 
steep  ascent  of  a  long  divide. 

we  had  been  preceded  on  the  way  by  a  young  man,  driving 
in  a  light  cart  a  pair  of  horses,  which  looked  remarkable  by  the 
side  of  the  usual  Californian  teams,  three  pair  with  the  near  wheel- 
er ridden.  Arriving  at  a  bad  place,  he  kindly  called  out  to  us, 
but  before  his  warning  could  be  taken  a  soft  and  yielding  sensa- 
tion, succeeded  by  a  decided  leaning  to  the  right,  and  ending  with 
a  loud  crash,  announced  an  overturn.  In  due  time  we  were  ex- 
tricated, the  pieces  were  picked  up,  and,  though  the  gun  was  bro- 
ken, the  bottle  of  cocktail  fortunately  remained  whole.  The 
judge,  probably  and  justly  offended  "by  my  evil  habit  of  laughing 
out  of  season,  informed  us  that  he  had  never  been  thrown  before, 
an  announcement  which  made  us  expect  more  "  spills."  The  un- 
happy Kennedy  had  jumped  off  before  the  wheels  pointed  up 
hill ;  he  had  not  lost  a  hoof,  it  is  true,  on  the  long  march,  but  he 
wept  spirits  and  water  at  the  disappointing  thought  that  the  am- 
bulance, this  time  drawn  by  his  best  team,  and  laden  with  all  th(j 
dignities,  had  come  to  grief,  and  would  not  be  fit  to  be  seen! 
After  100  yards  more  another  similar  series  of  sensations  an- 
nounced a  repetition  of  the  scene,  which  deserved  the  epitaph, 

"  Hie  jacet  amphora  vini." 

This  time,  however,  falling  down  a  bank,  we  "came  to  smash;" 
the  bottle  (eheu  !^  was  broken,  so  was  the  judge's  head,  while  the 
ear  of  the  judgehng — serve  him  right  for  chaffing! — was  cut,  the 
pistols  and  powder-flasks  were  half  buried  in  the  sand,  a  variety 
of  small  objects  were  lost,  and  the  flying  gear  of  the  ambulance 
was  a  perfect  wreck.  Unwilling  to  risk  our  necks  by  another 
trial,  we  walked  over  the  rest  of  the  rough  ground,  and,  conduct- 
ed by  the  good Croly,  found  our  way  to  "Dutch  Nick's,"  a  ranch 
and  tavern  apparently  much  frequented  by  the  teamsters  and 
other  roughs,  who  seemed,  honest  fellows !  deeply  to  regret  that 
the  accident  had  not  been  much  more  serious. 

Eemounting  after  a  time,  we  sped  forward,  and  sighted  in  front 
a  dark  line,  but  partially  lit  up  about  the  flanks,  with  a  brilliant 
illumination  in  trie  centre,  the  Kursaal  of  Mr.  Hopkins,  the  local 
Crockford.  Our  entrance  to  Pen  rod  House,  the  Fifth  Avenue  of 
Carson  City,  was  by  no  means  of  a  triumphal  order ;  Nature  her- 
self seemed  to  sympathize  with  us,  besplashing  us  with  tears  heav- 
ier than  Mr.  Kennedy's.  But  after  a  good  supper  and  change  of 
raiment,  a  cigar,  "something  warm,"  and  the  certainty  of  a  bed, 
combined  to  diffuse  over  our  minds  the  calm  satisfaction  of  hav- 
ing surmounted  our  difficulties  tant  Men  que  mal, 

****** 


III. 


les, 
Tth 

the 


1 


mg 
the 
eel- 
US, 
isa- 
rith 
ex- 
)ro- 
Dhe 
ing 
)re, 
un- 

Z 

un- 
tht^ 
len. 
an- 


b;" 
the 
the 
ety 
nee 
ber 
ict- 
ich 
md 
bat 


Dnt 
ant 
cal 
of 
ler- 
av- 
of 
ed, 
av- 


viBGiNiA  CITY.     (Fiom  the  Northeast.) 


CONCLUSION. 


499 


CONCLUSION. 

The  traveler  and  the  lecturer  have  apparently  laid  down  a  law 
that,  whether  the  journey  does  or  does  not  begin  at  home,  it  should 
always  end  at  that "  hallowed  spot."  Unwilling  to  break  through 
what  IS  now  becoming  a  time  honored  custom,  I  trespass  upon  the 
readers  patience  for  a  few  pages  more,  and  make  my  final  salaam 
m  the  muddy-puddly  streets,  under  the  gusty,  misty  sky  of  the 
"Liverpool  of  the  South."  <=      ^'         j      j 

After  a  day's  rest  at  Carson  City,  employed  in  collecting  cer- 
tain  necessaries  of  tobacco  and  raiment,  which,  intrinsicallv  vile 
were  about  treble  the  price  of  the  best  articles  of  their  kind  in 
the  Burlington  Arcade,!  fell  in  with  Captain  Dall,  superintend- 
ent  Wthe  Ophir  naines,for  whom  I  bore  a  recommendation  from 
Judge  Crosby,  of  Utah  Territory.     The  valuable  silver  leads  of 
Virginia  City  occupied  me,  under  the  guidance  of  that  hospitable 
gent  eman,  two  days,  and  on  the  third  we  returned  to  Carson  Citv 
via  the  Steam-boat  Springs,  Washoe  Valley,  and  other  local  lions'. 
On  the  24th  appeared  the  boys  driving  in  the  stock  from  Carson 
Lake:  certain  of  these  youths  had  disappeared;  Jim  Gilston,  who 
had  found  his  brother  at  Dry-Creek  Station,  had  bolted,  of  course 
torgetting  to  tfay  his  passage.    A  stage-coach,  most  creditably 
horsed,  places  the  traveler  from  Carson  City  at  San  Francisco  in 
two  days  ;  as  Mr.  Kennedy,  however,  wished  to  see  me  safely  to 
the  end,  and  the  judge,  esteeming  me  a  fit  Mentor  for  youth  had 
intrusted  to  me  Telemachus,  alias  Thomas,  his  son,  I  resolved  to 
cross  the  Sierra  b  v  easy  stages.     After  taking  kindly  leave  of  and 
a  last  "liquor  up '  with  my  old  compagnons  de  voyage,  the  judge 
and  the  marshal,  we  broke  ground  once  more  on  the  26th  of  Oc- 
tober.    At  Genoa,  pronounced  Ge-noa,  the  county  town,  built  in  a 
valley  thirteen  miles  south  of  Carson,  I  met  Judge  Cradlebaugh 
who  set  me  right  on  grounds  where  the  Mormons  had  sown  some 
prejudices.    Five  days  of  a  very  dilatory  travel  placed  us  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  the  dugways  and  zigzags  re- 
minded me  of  the  descriptions  of  travelers  over  the  Andes;  the 
snow  threatened  to  block  up  the  roads,  and  our  days  and  nights 
were  passed  among  teamsters  en  route  and  in  the  frame-house  inn. 
On  the  30th  of  November,  reaching  Diamond  Springs,  I  was  ad- 
vised by  a  Londoner,  Mr.  George  Fryer,  of  the  "Boomerang  Sa- 
loon,   to  visit  the  gold  diggings  at  Placerville,  whither  a  coach 
was  about  to  start.     At  "  Hangtown,"  as  the  place  was  less  eu- 
phoniously termed,  Mr.Collum,  of  the  Gary  House,  kindly  put  me 
through^  the  gold  washing  and  "  hydraulicking,"  and  Dr.  Smith, 
an  old  East  Indian  practitioner,  and  Mr.  White,  who  had  collected 


•'I 


I 


u 


500 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


some  fine  specimens  of  minerals,  made  the  evenings  pleasant.  I 
Started  on  the  1st  of  November  by  coach  to  Folsom,  and  there 
found  the  railroad,  which  in  two  hours  conducts  to  Sacramento : 
the  negro  coachmen  driving  hacks  and  wagons  to  the  station,  the 
whistling  of  the  steam,  and  the  hurry  of  the  train,  struck  me  by 
the  contrast  with  the  calm  travel  of  the  desert. 

At  Sacramento,  the  newer  name  for  New  Helvetia — a  capi- 
tal mass  of  shops  and  stores,  groggeries  and  hotels — I  cashed  a 
draught,  settled  old  scores  with  Kennedy,  who  almost  carried  me 
off  by  force  to  his  location,  shook  hands  with  Thomas,  and  trans- 
ferred myself  from  the  Golden  Eagle  on  board  the  steamer  Queen 
City.  Eight  hours  down  the  Sacramento  River,  past  Benicia — 
the  birthplace  of  the  Boy — in  the  dark  to  the  head- waters  of  the 
glorious  bay,  placed  me  at  the  "El  Dorada  of  the  West,"  where  a 
tolerable  opera,  a  superior  supper,  and  the  society  of  friends  made 
the  arrival  exceptionably  comfortable. 

I  spent  ten  pleasant  days  at  San  Francisco.  There  renmned 
some  traveler's  work  to  be  done :  the  giant  trees,  the  Yosenme  or 
Yohamite  Falls — the  highest  cataracts  yet  known  in  the  world — 
and  the  Almaden  cinnabar  mines,  with  British  Columbia,  Vancou- 
ver's Island,  and  Los  Angelos  temptingly  near.  But,  in  sooth,  I 
was  aweary  of  the  way ;  for  eight  months  I  had  lived  on  board 
steamers  and  railraod  cars,  coaches  and  mules ;  my  eyes  were  full 
of  sight-seeing,  my  pockets  empty,  and  my  brain  stuffed  \irith  all 
manner  of  useful  knowledge.  It  was  far  more  grateful  to  flaner 
about  the  stirring  streets,  to  admire  the  charming  fhces,  to  enjoy 
the  delicious  climate,  and  to  pay  quiet  visits  like  a  "  ladies'  man,"'' 
than  to  front  wind  and  rain,  muddy  roads,  arrieros,  and  rough 
teamsters,  fit  only  for  Hembrandt,  and  the  solitude  of  out-stations. 
The  presidential  election  was  also  in  progress,  and  I  wished  to 
see  with  my  eyes  the  working  of  a  system  which  has  been  face- 
tiously called  "  universal  suffering  and  vote  by  bullet."  Mr.  Con- 
sul Booker  placed  my  name  on  the  lists  of  the  Union  Club,  which 
was  a  superior  institution  to  that  of  Leamington  ;  Colonel  Hook- 
er, of  Oregon,  and  Mr.  Tooney,  showed  me  life  in  San  Francisco ; 
Mr.  Gregory  Yale,  whom  I  had  mot  at  Carson  City,  introduced 
me  to  a  quiet  picture  of  old  Spanish  happiness,  fast  fading  from 
California;  Mr.  Donald  Davidson,  an  old  East  Indian,  talked  East 
Indian  with  mo ;  and  Lieutenants  Macplierson  and  Brewer  accom- 
panied me  over  the  forts  and  batteries  which  are  intended  to  make 
of  San  Francisco  a  New-World  Cronstadt.  Mr.  l^olonius  sensibly 
refused  to  cash  for  mo  a  draught  not  authorized  by  my  circular 
letter  from  the  Union  Bank.  Mr.  B(K)ker  took  a  less  prudential 
and  mercantile  view  of  the  question,  and  kindly  helped  me  through 
with  the  nccrsmire — ,£100.  My  return  for  all  this  kindness  was, 
1  regret  to  say,  a  temperate  but  (Inn  refusal  to  lecture  upon  the 
subject  of  Meecah  and  El  Medinah,  Central  Africa,  Indian  cotton, 
American  politics,  or  every  thinj;  in  cencral.    I  nevertheless  bade 


CONCLUSION. 


601 


my  adieux  to  San  Francisco  and  the  hospitable  San  Franciscans 
with  regret. 

On  the  15th  of  November,  the  Golden  Age,  Commodore  Wat- 
kms,  steamed  out  of  the  Golden  Gates,  bearing  on  board,  among 
some  520  souls,  the  body  that  now  addresses  the  public.  She 
was  a  model  steamer,  with  engines  and  engine-rooms  clean  as  a 
club  kitchen,  and  a  cuisine  whose  terrapin  soup  and  deviled  crabs 
a  la  Baltimore  will  long  maintain  their  position  in  my  memory— 
not  so  long,  however,  as  the  kindness  and  courtesy  of  the  ancient 
mariner  who  commanded  the  Golden  Age.  On  the  28th  we  spent 
the  best  part  of  a  night  at  Acapulco,  the  city  of  Cortez  and  of  Dona 
Marina,  where  any  lurking  project  of  passing  through  ill-condi- 
tioned Mexico  was  finally  dispelled.  The  route  from  Acapulco 
to  Vera  Cruz,  over  a  once  well-worn  highway,  was  simply  and  ab- 
solutely impassable.  Each  sovereign  and  independent  state  in 
that  miserable  caricature  of  the  Anglo-American  federal  Union 
was  at  daggers  drawn  with  all  and  every  of  its  next-door  neigh- 
bors; the  battles  were  paper  battles,  but  the  plundering  and  the 
barbarities— cosas  de  Mejico  I— were  stern  realities.  A  rich  man 
could  not  travel  because  of  the  banditti ;  a  poor  man  would  have 
been  enlisted  almost  outside  the  city  gates ;  a  man  with  many 
servants  would  have  seen  half  of  them  converted  to  soldiers  un- 
der his  eyes,  and  have  lost  the  other  half  by  desertion,  while  a 
man  without  servants  would  have  been  himself  press-gang'd ;  a 
Liberal  would  have  been  murdered  by  the  Church,  and  a  Church- 
man— even  the  frock  is  no  protection — would  have  been  martyr- 
ed by  the  Liberal  party.  For  this  disappointment  I  found  a  phil- 
osophical consolation  in  various  experiments  touching  the  influ- 
ence of  Mczcal  brandy,  the  Mexican  national  drink,  upon  the  hu- 
man mind  and  body. 

On  the  loth  of  December  we  debarked  at  Panama ;  horridly 
wet,  dull,  and  dirty  was  the  "place  of  fish,"  and  the  "  Aspinwall 
Uoupo  '  and  its  Mivart  reminded  me  of  a  Pursee  hotel  in  the  fort, 
Bombay.  Yet  I  managed  to  spend  there  three  pleasant  circlings 
of  the  sun.  A  visit  to  the  acting  consul  introduced  me  to  M. 
Unrtudo,  tlio  Intcndcntc  or  military  governor,  and  to  a  charming 
countrywoman,  whoso  fascinating  society  made  mo  regret  that  my 
stay  there  could  not  be  ^-rotracted.  l^hough  politics  were  run- 
ning high,  I  became  acquainted  with  most  of  the  ofiicera  of  the 
United  States  s(iumlrpn,  and  only  saw  the  last  of  them  at  Colon, 
alias  Aspinwall.  Messrs.  Boyd  and  Power,  of  the  "  Weekly  Star 
and  Herald,"  introduccMl  mo  to  the  officials  of  tlie  Panama  Kail- 
road,  Messrs.  Nelson,  Center,  and  others,  who,  had  I  not  expressed 
an  aversion  to  " dead-headism,"  or  gratis  traveling,  would  have 
offere<l  mo  a  free  passage.  Last,  but  not  least,  I  must  mention 
the  venerable  name  of  Mrs.Seaoole,  of  Jamaica  and  Pulakhiva. 

On  the  8th  of  December  I  passed  over  the  ceU^brated  I'aiuima 
Railway  to  Asninwall,  where  Mr.  Contur,  tb.e  guperintendent  of 


M 


502 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


the  line,  made  the  evening  highly  agreeable  with  conversation 
aided  by  "  Italia,"  a  certain  muscatel  cognac  that  has  yet  to  reach 
Great  Britain.  We  steamed  the  next  morning,  under  charge  of 
Captain  Leeds,  over  the  Caribbean  Sea  or  Spanish  Main,  bound 
for  St.  Thomas.  A  hard-hearted  E.N.E.  wind  protracted  the  voy- 
age of  the  Solent  for  six  days,  and  we  reached  the  Danish  settle- 
ment in  time,  and  onl^  just  in  time,  to  save  a  week's  delay  upon 
that  offensive  scrap. of  negro  liberty-land.  On  the  9th  of  Decem- 
ber we  bade  adieu  with  pleasure  to  the  little  dungeon-rock,  and 
turned  the  head  of  the  good  ship  Seine,  Captain  Rivett,  toward 
the  Western  Islands.  She  played  a  pretty  wheel  till  almost  with- 
in sight  of  Land's  End,  where  Britannia  received  us  with  her  char- 
acteristic welcome,  a  gale  and  a  pea-soup  fog,  which  kept  us  cruis- 
ing about  for  three  days  in  the  unpleasant  Solent  and  the  South- 
ampton Water. 


IN  TOC  klKBM  nWfAOA. 


Sho 

ai 
ol 
P 
F 


No.  c 

Mail 


2. 


4. 


•      APPENDICES. 


I.  EMIGRANT'S  ITINERARY, 

^\°rl"nh5!  *^»^'rT  ^^"^T  «=a">ping-places,  the  several  mail-stations  where  mules 
are  changed  the  hours  of  travel,  the  character  of  the  roads,  and  the  rcilfti"  for 

Slue  filvlr  from  St''r'f^^  ''"•^'"n^  ^°"'^  '''""«  *^«  Uhem  Tank  oT the 
i^lattt  Kiver,  from  ht,  Joseph,  Mo.,  vid  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  to  Carson  Vallpv 

^om  a  Diary  kept  between  the  7th  of  August  and  the  19th  o^f  0010^,1860      ^" 


/,  , 


No.  of  I 
Mail, 


1. 


8. 


4. 


Leave  St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  in  N.  hit.  3!J"  40',  and 
W.  long^)4°  60'.  Cross  Missouri  River  by  steam 
terry.  Five  miles  oPbottom  land,  bend  in  river 
and  settlements.  Over  rolling  prairie  2000  feet 
above  sea  level.  After  6  miles,  Troy,  capital  of 
Uoniphan  Co.,  Kansas  Territory,  about  a  dozen 
slianties.  Dine  and  change  mules  at  Cold  Spring 

— good  water  and  grass ,..  __ 

Road  from  Fort  Leavenworth  (N.  lat  39°  21' 
14",  and  W.  long.  94°  44')  falls  in  at  Cold  Spring 
distant  15  miles. 

From  St.  Jo  to  Cold  Spring  there  are  t^vo 
routes,  one  lying  north  of  the  other,  the  former 
20,  the  latter  24  miles  in  lenj^th. 
After  10  miles.  Valley  Home,  a  whitewashed  shan- 
ty. At  Small  Brancli  on  "Wolf  River,  12  miles 
from  Cold  Spring,  is  a  fiumarn  on  the  north  of 
tlio  road,  witii  water,  wood,  and  grass.  Here  the 
road  from  Fort  Atchinson  fulls  in.  Kennekuk 
Station,  44  miles  from   St.  Joseph.     Sup   and 

change  mules 

Two  miles  beyond  Kennekuk  is  the  firet  of  the  tlirce 
Grasshopper  Creeks,  flowing  after  rain  to  the 
Kansas  River.  Road  rough  and  stony;  water, 
wood,  and  grass.  Four  miles  beyond  the  First 
Grass_h()pi)er  is  Whitehead,  a  yoiing  settlement 
on  Rig  Urasshoi.per  ;  water  in  pools,  wood,  niul 
grass,  iivo  and  :i  half  miles  beyond  is  Walnut 
Creek,  in  Kickapoo  Co.:  pass  over  corduroy 
bridge  ;  roadside  dotted  with  shanties.     Thence 

to  Locknan's,  or  Rig  Muddy  Station 

Scvi-ntoon  miles  beyond  Walnut  Crock,  the  Tlilrii 
GrasshopiKsr,  also  falling  into  the  Kansas  River. 
G<K)d  oampniK-ground.  Ten  miles  beyond  lies 
Uichland,  deserted  site.  Thence  to  Seneca,  cap- 
ital ot  Ncinehaw  Co.  A  few  shanties  on  the  N. 
fmnk  of  Hig  Nemcliaw  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the 
ftlisHouri  River,  which  affordi  water,  wood,  and 
grass ' 

Cross  Wildcat  (^rcek  and' otiaT"'nuiiahH.'"'si^von 
niilcB  U-yond  Seneca  lies  Ash  Point,  a  few  wood- 


MUw.     start. 


20- 
24 


A.M. 
9  30 


Arrival 


P.M. 
3 


22- 
23 


25 


P.M. 
4 


Date. 


Aug.  7 


P.M. 

8 


Aug.  7 


18 


P.M. 
9 


A.M. 
1 


A.M. 
3 


A.M. 
G 


Aug.  7, 8 


Aug.  a 


506 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


No.  of 
M>U. 


6. 


7. 


8. 


9. 


10. 


11. 


12. 


13. 


U. 


Miles. 


en  huts,  thence  to  "Uncle  John's  Grocery," 
where  liquor  and  stores  are  procurable.  Eleven 
miles  from  Big  Nemehaw,  water,  wood,  and  grass 
are  found  at  certain  seasons  near  the  head  of  a 
ravine.  Thence  to  Vermilion  Creek,  which  heads 
to  the  N.E.,  and  enters  the  Big  Blue  20  miles 
above  its  month.  The  ford  is  miry  after  rain, 
and  the  banks  are  thickly  wooded.  Water  is 
found  in  wells  40-43  feet  deep.  Guittard's  Sta- 
tion  

Fourteen  miles  from  Guittard's,  Marysville,  capital 
of  Washington  Co.,  affords  supplies  and  a  black' 
smith.  Then  ford  the  Big  Blue,  tributary  to 
Kansas  River,  clear  and  swift  stream.  Twelve 
miles  W.  of  Marysville  is  the  frontier  line  be- 
tween Kansas  and  Nebraska.  Thence  to  Cot- 
ton-wood Creek,  fields  in  hollow  near  the  stream 

Store  at  the  crossing  very  dirty  and  disorderly. 
Good  water  in  spring  400  yards  N.  of  the  road ; 
wood  and  grass  abundant.  Seventeen  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  Big  Blue  is  Walnut  Creek, 
where  emigrants  encamp.  Thence  to  West  Tur- 
key or  Rock  Creek  in  Nebraska  Territory,  a 
branch  of  the  Big  Blue :  its  approximate  alti 
tude  is  1485  feet 

After  19  miles  of  rough  road  and  musquetoes,  cross 
Little  Sandy,  5  miles  E.  of  Big  Sandy ;  water 
and  trees  plentiful.  There  Big  Sandy  deep  and 
heavy  bed.     Big  Sandy  Station 

Cross  hills  forming  divide  of  Little  Blue  River,  as 
cending  valley  (JO  miles  long.     Little  Blue  fine 
stream  of  clear  water  falling  into  Kansas  River  ; 
every  where  good  supplies  and  good  camping- 
ground.     Along  the  left  bank  to  Kiowa 

Rough  road  of  spurs  and  gullies  runs  up  a  valley  2 
miles  wide.  Well  wooded  chiefly  with  cotton- 
wood,  and  grass  abundant.  Ranch  at  Liberty 
Farm,  on  the  Little  Blue 

Cross  divide  between  Little  Bine  and  Platte  River ; 
rough  road,  musquetoes  troublesome.  Approx- 
imate altitude  of  dividing  ridgn  2025  feet.  Sta- 
tion at  Thirty-two-Mile  Creek,  a  Rnmll  wooded 
and  winding  stream  fiowing  into  the  Little  Blue.. 

After  27  miles  strike  the  Valley  of  the  I'lattc,  along 
the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  over  level  ground, 
good  for  camping,  fodder  abundant.  After  7 
milas  Fort  Kearney  in  N.  lat.  40°  .38'  45",  and  W, 
long.  98° 58' U":  approximate  altitude  2500  feet 
above  sea  level.  (Jrocerics,  cloths,  provisions, 
and  supplies  of  all  kinds  are  to  Ikj  procured  from 
the  sutler's  store.  B<'yonil  Kearney  a  rough  and 
bad  road  leads  to  "  Sevontcen-Milo  Station" 

Along  the  south  bank  of  the  Platte.  Buffalo  chips 
used  for  fuel.  Sign  of  butfnlo  api)oar8.  Plum- 
Creek  Station  on  a  stream  where  there  is  a  bad 
crossing  in  wet  weather 

Beyond  Plum  Creek,  Willow-Island  Ranch,  where 
lupplics  are  procurable.  Road  along  the  Platte, 
wood  scarr(!,  gra-ss  ]>lonfiful,  buffalo  abounds; 
after  20  miles  "  Cold- Water  Ranch."  Halt  and 
change  at  Midway  Station 


20 


25 


26 


23 


19 


25 


24 


84 


21 


25 


start.      Arriral. 


A.M. 

8 


P.M. 
1 


NOON. 

12 


P.M. 
G 


Vmtt. 


P.M. 
G 

P.M. 
11 

P.M. 

12 

A.M 

4 

A.M. 
6 

A.M 
10 

A.M. 
11 

P.M. 
3 

P.M. 
4 

P.M. 
9 

P.M 

10  30 


A.M. 
9  30 


P.M. 

2  30 


A.M, 

8 


P.M. 
1  15 


P.M. 

8 


Aug.  8 


Aug.  8 


Aug.  8 


Aug.  9 


Aug.  9 


Aug.  9 


Aug.  9 


Aug.  10 


Aug.  10 


Aug.  101 


APPENDIX  I. 


507 


I  No.  of 
HaU. 


15. 


16. 
17. 

18. 
19. 

20. 
21. 

22. 

23. 


24. 


26. 


Along  the  Valley  of  the  Platte,  road  muddy "^fW 
rain,  fuel  scarce,  grass  abundant,  carap  traces 
every  where.     Ranch  at  Cotton-wood  Station,  at 
this  season  the  western  limit  of  buffalo 
^.»,*;nt7*f  ^^  of  the  Platte.    No  wood";" buffalo 

a  store  and  ranch,  distant  120  miles  from  Fort 
Kearney,  400  from  St.  Joseph,  40  from  the  Low- 
er  Crossing  and  68  from  the  Upper  Crossing  of 

Road  along  river;  no  timber;  grass,  buffnio  chips,' 
and  musquetoes.  Station  at  Diamond  Springs 
near  Lower  Crossing 

^^vn-n'T^  'r'-  ^"''  *  miles'Ve^y  heavy';and; 
avoided  by  Lower  Crossing.  Poor  accommodal 
tion  at  Upper  Ford  or  Crossing  on  the  eastern 
bank,  where  the  mail  pa*scs  the  stream  en  route 
to  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  the  road  branches 
to  Denver  City  and  Pike's  Peak.... 

Ford  Platte  600  yards  wide,  2-50  feet  deep,"  bed 
gravelly  and  solid  easy  ford  in  dry  season.  Cross 
divide  between  North  and  South  Forks,  along 
the  bank  of  Lodge-Polo  Creek.  Land  arid ;  wild 
sage  for  fuol.     Lodge-Pole  Station 

Up  Lodge-Polo  Creek  over  a  spur  of  table-land  i 
then,  striking  over  the  prairie,  finishes  the  high 

fid!.  VnoT'^  'o  ^''^^'■.   APP'-o'^imate  alti- 
tude 3500  feet.    On  the  right  is  Ash  Hollow, 
where  there  is  plenty  of  wood  and  a  sma!!  spring 
The  station  is  Mud  SprinRs,  a  poor  ranch..... 

Route  lies  over  a  rolling  divide  between  the  Forks' 
crossing  Omaha,  Law.ence,  and  other  creeks' 
where  water  and  Rrass  are  procurable.  Cedar  is 
Btill  found  m  hill-Kullies.  About  half  a  mile 
north  of  Chimney  liock  is  a  ranch  where  the 
cattle  are  changed 

Road  along  the  south  bankofNo'rt'h'Fo'rd'of  piaVtc 
River.  Wild  sago  the  only  fuel  in  the  vnllov 
small  spring  on  top  of  first  hill.  Rugged  laby- 
rinth of  paths  abroa.st  of  Scott's  Bluffs,  which  lie 
5  miles  S.  of  liver,  in  N.  Int.  41°  48'  26".  and  W 
'°"?-  *"P° i''*'  02"-  Water  found  in  first  rnvL 
of  Scott  s  Bluffs  200  yards  below  the  road,  cedars 
on  heights.    Testation 

Road  along  the  river;  crosses  Little' k'iowa'crcek' 
a  tributary  to  Horse  Creek,  which  flows  into  the 
1  latte.  I  ord  Horse  Creek,  a  clear  shallow  stream 
With  a  sandy  bottom.     No  wood  Iwlow  the  hills 

Route  over  sandy  and  heavy  river  bottom  and  roli- 
ing  ground,  leaving  the  Platte  on  the  liclit  •  cot- 
ton-wood and  willows  on  t!ie  banks.  Rniich  at 
Lnramio  City  kept  by  M.  Badeau,  a  Canadian, 
who  sella  spirits,  Indian  goodH,  and  outlit 
After  9  miles  of  rough  road  cross  Laramie  Fork 
and  enter  Fort  Laramie,  N.  lat.  42"  !>'  Uh"  nn,! 
W.l„ng.l04'in'26".  Altitude  4r,19  feet  'mh 
itury  post,  with  post-ofliee,  sutler's  stores,  and 


MUm.  I   SUrt. 


27 


30 


25 


25 


25 


35 


25 


25 


P.M. 
9 


A.M. 
6  15 


NOON. 
12 

P.M. 
6 


P.M. 
11 


A!TiT»l.        Data. 


A.M. 
6  30 


P.M. 
3 


A.M. 
8 


A.M. 
1  45 


A.M. 
11 


P.M. 
5 

P.M. 

10  15 


Aug.  11 


Aug.  11 


Aug.  11 


Aug.  11 


A.M. 
3  15 


P.M. 
12  45 


P.M. 
5  45 


Aug.  12 


Aug.  12 


Aug.  12 


24 


16 


26 


P.M. 
1  30 


P.M. 

12  30  Aug.  13 


P.M. 

5  30 


P.M.  P.M. 
G  30   8  30 


A.M. 
G 


P.M 
10  20 


Aug.  18 


Aug.  13 


Aug.  14 


It' 


'i 


508 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


No.  of  I 
Mail.  I 


MUes. 


28. 


29. 


30. 


31. 


32. 


25 


25 


other  conveniences.    Thence  To  Ward's  Station 

on  the  Central  Star,  small  ranch  and  store 18 

27.  Rough  and  bad  road.  After  14  miles  cross  Bitter 
Cotton-wood  Creek;  water  rarely  flows;  after 
rain  10  feet  wide  and  6  inches  deep ;  grass  and 
fuel  abundant.  Pass  Indian  shop  and  store.  At 
Bitter  Creek  branch  of  Cotton-wood  the  road  to 
Salt  Lake  City  forks.  Emigrants  follow  the  Up 
per  or  South  jx)ad  over  spurs  of  the  Black  Hills, 
some  way  south  of  the  river,  to  avoid  knnyons  and 
to  find  grass.  The  station  is  called  Horseshoe 
Creek.    Residence  of  road-agent,  Mr.  Slade,  and 

one  of  the  worst  places  on  the  line 

Road  forks;  one  line  follows  the  Platte,  the  other 
turns  to  the  left,  over  "cut-off;"  highly  undulating 
ridges,  crooked  and  deeply  dented  with  dry  beds 
of  rivers;  land  desolate  and  desert.  No  wood  nor 
water  till  end  of  stage.  La  Bonte  River  and  Sta- 
tion; unfinished  ranch  in  valley ;  water  and  grass 
Road  runs  6  miles  (wheels  often  locked)  on  rugged 
red  land,  crosses  several  dry  beds  of  creeks,  and 
springs  with  water  after  melting  of  snow  and 
frosts  in  dry  season,  thenco  into  the  Valley  of  the 
Platte.  After  17  miles  it  crosses  the  La  Prele 
(Rush  River),  a  stream  1 G  feet  wide,  where  water 
and  wood  abound.  At  Box-Elder  Creek  Station 
good  ranch  and  comfortable  ■  nmping-ground... 
Along  the  Platte  River,  now  shrunk  to  100  yards, 
After  10  miles,  M.  Bissonette ;  at  Deer  Creek,  a 
post-office,  blacksmith's  shop,  and  store  near  In 
dian  Agency.  Thence  a  waste  of  wild  sage  to 
Little  Muddy,  a  creek  with  water.  No  accom- 
modation nor  provisions  at  station....  

After  8  miles  cross  vile  bridge  over  Snow  Creek. 
Thence  up  the  river  valley  along  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Platte  to  the  lower  ferry.  To  Lower  Bridge, 
old  station  of  troops.     To  Upper  Bridge,  where 

the  ferry  has  now  been  done  away  with 

Road  ascends  a  hill  7  miles  long ;  land  rough,  bar- 
ren, and  sandy  in  dry  season.  After  10  miles,  red 
spring  near  the  Red  Buttes,  an  old  trading-place 
and  post-office.  Road  then  leaves  the  Platte 
River  and  strikes  over  high,  rolling,  and  barren 
prairie.  After  18  miles,  "Devil's  Backbone." 
Station  at  Willow  Springs ;  wood,  water,  and 
grass;  good  jjlaco  for  encampment,  but  no  at-com- 
modntion  nor  provisions.  On  this  stage  m>!M;ral 
and  alkaline  waters  dangerous  to  cattle  ntwuna, 
33.  After  3  miles,  Green  Creek,  not  to  be  depended 
upon,  and  ProBjKict  Hill,  a  gotnl  look  jiit.  Then, 
at  intervals  of  .1  miles,  Harper's,  Woodworth's, 
and  Grcascwood  Creeks,  followed  by  heavy  sand. 
At  17  miles,  "Salcratus  Lake,"  on  the  west  of 
the  road.  Four  miles  Iwyond  is  "  Indejiendcnce 
Rock,"  Ford  Sweetwater,  leaving  the  "IX-vil's 
Gate"  on  the  right.  Pass  a  blacksmith's  shop 
Sage  the  only  fuel.     Plnnte  or  Muddy  Station ; 

family  of  Canadians ;  no  conviiniences 

84.  Along  the  winding  banks  of  the  Sweetwater.  After 
4  miles,  "Alkali  Lake "  S.  of  the  road.  Land  dry 
and  stuHj ;  stuntcu  Cvusrs  lu  hills.     Attsr  l« 


start.    {Arrival, 


Uate. 


P.M. 
12  16 


P.M. 
4 


Aug.  14 


P.M. 
6 


A.M 
10  45 


26 


20 


18 


P.M. 
9  30 


A.M. 

2  45 


Aug.  14 


Aug.  15 


P.M.  P.M. 
4    9 


A.M.  NOON. 

8  80   12 


P.M. 
1  16 


28 


S3 


A.M. 
6  30 


P.M. 
2  30 


P.M. 
4  15 


Ang.  16 


Aug.  16 


Ang.  16 


P.M. 

12  CO  Aug.  17 


P.M. 
9  16 


Aug.  17 


APPENDIX  I. 


No.  of 
Hail. 


35. 


86. 


37. 


38. 


39. 


40. 


miles,  the  "  Devil's  Post-office,"  a  singular  bluff 
on  the  left  of  the  ioad,  and  opposite  a  ranch  kept 
by  a  Canadian.  Mail  station  "Three  Cross- 
ings," at  Ford  No.  3;  excellent  water,  wood, 
grass,  game,  and  wild  currants 

Up  a  kanyon  of  the  Sweetwater.  Ford  the  river  5 
times,  making  a  total  of  8.  After  16  miles,  "Ice 
Springs"  in  a  swampy  valley,  and  one  quarter  of  a 
mile  beyond  ' '  Warm  Springs. "  Then  rough  de- 
scent  and  waterless  stretch.  Descend  by  "  Lan- 
der's Cut-off" into  fertile  bottom.  "Kooky  Ridge 
Station ;"  at  Muskrat  Creek  good  cold  spring, 
grass,  and  sage  fuel 

Up  the  bed  of  the  creek,  and,  ascending  long  hiiis, 
leave  the  Sweetwater.  After  4  miles,  3  alkaline 
ponds  S.  of  the  road.  Rough  path.  After  7  miles, 
"  Strawberry  Creek,"  6  feet  wide ;  good  camping- 
grouijk  willows  and  poplars.  One  mile  beyond 
is  QdMing-Asp  Creek,  often  dry.  Three  miles 
beyond  lies  M'Achran's  Branch,  33x2.  Then 
"  Willow  Creek,"  10  X  2  ;  good  camping-ground. 
At  Ford  No.  9  is  a  Canadian  ranch  and  store. 
A  long  table-land  leads  to  "South  Pass,"dividing 
trip  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  thence 
2  miles  to  the  station  at  "Pacific  Springs ;"  wa- 
ter, tolerable  grass,  sage  fuel,  and  musquetoes.... 

Cross  Miry  Creek.  Road  down  Pacific  Creek; 
water  scarce  for  20  miles.  After  11  miles,  "Dry 
Sandy  Creek ;"  water  scarce  and  too  brackish  to 
drink ;  grass  little ;  sage  and  greasewood  plenti- 
ful. After  16  miles,  "Sublette's  Cut-off,"  or  the 
"Dry  Drive,"  turns  N.W.  to  Soda  Springs  and 
Fort  Hall :  the  left  fork  leads  to  Fort  Bridger  and 
Great  Salt  Lake  City.  Four  miles  beyond  the 
junction  is  "Little  Sandy  Creek,"  20-25x2; 
grass,  timber,  and  good  camping-ground.  Eight 
miles  beyond  is  "  Big  Sandy  Creek,"  clear,  swift, 
and  with  good  crossing,  110x2.  The  southern 
route  is  the  best;  along  the  old  road,  no  water 
for  49  miles.     Big  Sandy  Creek  Station 

Desolate  road  cuts  off  the  bend  of  the  river;  no 
grass  nor  water.  After  12  miles,  "Simpson's 
Hollow."  Fall  into  the  Valley  of  Green  River, 
lialf  a  mile  wide,  water  1 10  yards  broad.  After 
20i  miles.  Upper  Ford ;  Lower  Ford  7  miles  be- 
low Upiier.  Good  camping-ground  on  bottom ; 
at  tlie  station  in  Green  River,  grocery,  stores,  and 
ferry-boat  when  there  is  high  water 

Diagonal  ford  over  Green  River ;  a  good  camping- 
ground  in  bottom.  Follow  the  valley  for  4  miles; 
grass  and  fuel.  Michel  Martin's  store  and  gro- 
cery. The  road  leaves  the  river  and  crosses  a 
waterless  divide  to  Black's  Fork,  100x2;  grass 
and  fuel.     Wretched  station  at  Ham's  Fork 

Ford  Ham's  Fork.  After  12  miles  the  road  forks 
at  the  2d  striking  of  Ham's  Fork,  both  branches 
leading  to  Fort  Bridger.  Mail  takes  the  left- 
hand  j)ath.  Then  Black's  Fork,  20x2,  clear  and 
pretty  valley,  with  grass  and  fuel,  cotton-wood 
and  yellow  currants.  Cross  the  stream  8  times. 
Afwi'  12  luilea,  "  Church  Butte."    Ford  Smith's 


509 


25 


35 


35 


A.M. 

7 


A.M. 
5  45 


A.M. 

7  45 


33 


32 


24 


Dal«. 


A.M. 

11 


P.M. 

12  45 


P.M. 
8 


A.M.  P.M. 

8      12  50 


Aug.  18 


Aug.  19 


Aug.  20 


P.M. 
1  45 


A.M. 

8 


P.M. 
6  30 


NOON, 
12 


Aug.  21 


p     I 


I  \ 


Aug.  21 


Aug.  22 


510 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


No.  of 
Mail. 


41. 


42. 


43. 


44. 


45. 


Fork,  30  feet  wide  and  shallow,  a  tributary  of 
Black's  Fork.  Station  at  Millersville  on  Smith's 
Fork;  large  store  and  good  accommodation 

Road  runs  up  the  valley  of  Black's  Fork.  After  12 
miles.Fort  Bridger,  in  N.  lat. 41°  18'  12",  and  W. 
long.  110°  32'  23",  on  Black's  Fork  of  Green  Riv- 
er. Commands  Indian  trade,  fuel,  com;  little 
grass.  Post-office,  sutler's  store,  grocery,  and 
other  conveniences.  Thence  rough  and  rolling 
ground  to  Muddy  Creek  Hill ;  sJ«ep  and  stony 
descent.  Over  a  fertile  bottom  to  Big  Muddy 
and  Little  Muddy  Creek,  which  empties  into 
Black's  Fork  below  Fort  Bridger.  At  Muddy 
Creek  Station  there  is  a  Canadian,  provisions, 
excellent  milk;  no  stores 

Rough  country.  The  road  winds  along  the  ridge  to 
Quaking-Asp  Hill,  7900  (8400  ?)  feet  above  sea 
level.  Steep  descent ;  rough  and  broken  ground. 
After  18  miles.  Sulphur  Creek  Valley;  stagnant 
stream,  flowing  after  rain ;  ford  bad  and  muddy. 
Station  in  the  fertile  valley  of  Bear  River,  which 
turns  northward  and  flows  into  the  east  side  of 
the  lake ;  wood,  grass,  and  water.  Poor  accom- 
modations at  Bear  River  Station 

Road  runs  by  Needle  Rocks ;  falls  into  the  Valley 
of  Egan's  Creek.  "Cache  Cave"  on  the  right 
hand.  Three  miles  below  the  Cave  is  Red  Fork 
in  Echo  Kanyon ;  unfinished  station  at  the  en- 
trance. Rough  road ;  steep  ascents  and  descents 
along  Red  Creek  Station  on  Weber  River,  which 
falls  into  Salt  Lake  south  of  Bear  River 

Road  runs  down  the  Valley  of  the  Weber.  Ford 
the  river.  After  5i  miles  is  a  salt  spring,  where 
the  road  leaves  the  river  to  avoid  a  deep  kanyon, 
and  turns  to  the  left  into  a  valley  with  rough 
paths,  trying  to  wheels.  Then  crosses  a  mount- 
ain, and,  ascending  a  long  hill,  descends  to  BauCh- 
min's  Creek,  tributary  to  Weber  River.  Creek 
18  feet  wide,  swift,  pebbly  bed,  good  ford;  grass 
and  fuel  abundant.  The  station  is  called  Car- 
son's House ;  accommodations  of  the  worst 

Ford  Bauchmin's  Creek  13  times  in  8  miles.  After 
2  miles  along  a  small  water-course  ascend  Big 
Mountain,  whence  first  view  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
City,  12  miles  distant.  After  14  miles,  Big  Kan- 
yon Creek.  Six  miles  farther  the  road  leaves  Big 
Kanyon  Creek,  and  after  a  steep  ascent  and  de- 
scent makes  Emigration  Creek.  Cross  Little 
Mountain,  2  miles  beyond  Big  Mountain ;  road 
rough  and  dangerous.  Five  miles  from  Emigra- 
tion Kanyon  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  lioad 
through  "Big  Field"  6  miles  square 


HilM. 


20 


26 


20 


36 


22 


29 


P.M. 

2 


A.M. 

8  30 


AirivAl. 


P.M. 
6  15 


P.M. 
12  15 


NOON. 

12 


A.M. 

8  15 


P.M. 

4  30 


A.M. 

7 


P.M. 
5  30 


P.M. 

2  30 


P.M. 

7  45 


Date. 


Aug.  22 


Aug.  23 


Aug.  23| 


Aug.  24 


Aug.  24 


P.M. 

7  15 


Aug.  28 


Gkeat  Salt  Lake  Citt,  N.  lat.  40"  46'  08" 

W.  long.  112°  06' 08" (G.) 
Altitude  4300  feet. 

The  variation  of  compass  at  Temple  Block  in  1849  was  15°  47' 2.1",  and  in  1860  it 
was  16°  54',  a  slow  progress  toward  the  east.  (In  the  Wind-River  Mountains,  as  laid 
down  by  Colonel  Frdmont  in  1842,  it  was  E.  18°.)  In  Fillmore  Valley  it  is  now  18° 
15'.  and  three  vears  aco  was  about  17°  east :  the  ranid  nroKression  to  the  east  is  ac- 


APPENDIX  I.  511 

companied  with  extreme  irregularity,  which  the  people  attribute  to  the  metalUc  con- 
dtituents  of  the  soil. 

Total  of  days  between  St.  Jo  and  Great  Salt  Lake  City 19 

Total  stages ...'.'.'.'.'.".'""  45 

Distance  in  statute  miles !!!!.'."!."",  1136 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City.!!.!!!."!!!.!."!.'.'."  ngg 


ITINERAKY  OF  THE  MAIL-ROUTE  FROM  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY 

TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


No.  of 
Mail. 


1 

and 
2. 


4. 


6. 


8. 


Milei. 


Road  through  the  south  of  the  city,  due  south  along 
the  right  bank  of  the  Jordan.  Cross  many  creeks, 
viz.,  Kanyon  Creek,  ii  miles;  Mill  Creek,  2^; 
First  or  Great  Cotton-wood  Creek,  2;  Second 
ditto,  4 ;  Fork  of  road,  IJ ;  Dry  Creek,  3^ ; 
Willow  Creek,  2i. 

After  22-23  miles,  hot  and  cold  springs,  and 
half-way  house,  the  brewery  under  the  point  of 
the  mountain.  Road  across  Ash-Hollow  or  Jor- 
dan Kanyon,  2  miles.  Fords  river,  knee  deep ; 
ascends  a  rougli  divide  between  Utah  Valley  and 
Cedar  Valley,  10  miles  from  camp,  and  finally 
reaches  Cedar  Creek  and  Camp  Floyd 

Leaves  Camp  Floyd ;  7  miles  to  the  divide  of  Cedar 
Valley.  Crosses  the  divide  into  Rush  Valley; 
after  a  total  of  1 8  '2  miles  reachtc  Meadow  Creek ; 
good  grass  and  water.  Rush  Valley  mail  station 
1  mile  beyond ;  food  and  accommodation 

Crosses  remains  of  Rush  Valley  7  miles.  Up  a 
rough  divide  called  General  Johnston's  Pass. 
Spring,  often  dry,  200  yards  on  the  right  of  the 
road.  At  Point  Look-out  leaves  Simpson's  Road, 
which  runs  south.  Cross  Skull  Valley ;  bad  road. 
To  the  bench  on  the  eastern  flank  of  the  desert. 
Station  called  Egan's  Springs,  Simpson's  Springs, 
or^ost  Springs,  grass  plentiful,  water  good 

New  station;  road  forks  to  S.E.,  and  leads,  after 
6  miles,  to  grass  and  water.  After  8  miles,  riv- 
er bottom,  1  mile  broad.  Long  line  over  desert 
to  express  station,  called  Dugway;  no  grass, 
and  no  water 

Steep  road  2i  miles  to  the  summit  of  Dugway  Puss. 
Descend  by  a  rough  incline ;  8  miles  beyond  the 
road  forks  to  Devil's  Hole,  90  miles  from  Camp 
Floyd  on  Simpson's  route,  and  G  miles  S.  of  Fish 
Springs.  Eight  miles  beyond  the  fork  is  Mount- 
ain Point ;  road  winds  S.  and  W.,  and  then  N.  to 
avoid  swamp,  and  crosses  3  sloughs.  Beyond  the 
last  is  Fish-Spring  Station,  on  the  bench— a  poor 
place;  water  plentiful,  but  bad.  Cattle  here  drink 
fortho  first  time  after  Lost  Springs,  distant48  miles 

Road  passes  many  ])ools.  Half  way  forks  S.  to  Pleas- 
ant Valley  (Simpson's  line).  Road  again  rounds 
the  swamp,  crossing  S.  end  of  Salt  Plain.  After 
21  miles,  "Willow  Creek;"  water  rather  brackish. 
Station  ' '  Willow  Springs"  on  the  bench  below  the 
hills,  at  W.  end  of  desert;  grass  and  hay  plentiful 

Road  ascending  the  bench,  turns  N.  to  find  the  pass. 
After  0  miles*  M^ountain  Springs :  '^ood  wfttor 


SUrt.    j  Arrival.        Date. 


44 


20 


27 


20 


10  30 


10  30 


28 


22 


A.M. 
9  30 


12 


9  30 


9  30 


P.M. 
6  30 


A.M, 
10 


4  30 


P.M. 
6  30 


Sept.  20 


Sept.  27 


A.M. 
3  30 


3  30 


Sept.  28 


Sept.  29 


Sept.  29 


Sept.  30 


512 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS, 


No.  of 
Hail. 


10. 


11. 


12. 


13. 


14. 


15. 


16. 


17. 


18. 


grass,  and  fuel.  Six  miles  beyond  is  Deep-Creek 
Kanyon,  a  dangerous  ravine  9  miles  long.  Then 
descends  into  a  fertile  and  well-watered  valley, 
and  after  7  miles  enters  Deep-Creek  mail  sta- 
tion.    Indian  farm .' 

Along  Willow  Creek.  After  8  miles,  "  Eight-Miles 
Springs;"  water,  grass,  and  sage  fuel.  Kanyon 
after  2^  miles,  .500  yards  long  and  easy.  Then 
19  miles  through  Antelope  Valley  to  the  station 
of  the  same  name,  burnt  in  June,  18G0,  by  In 
dians.  Simpson's  route  from  Pleasant  Valley, 
distant  12-5  miles,  falls  into  the  E.  end  of  Ante 
lope  Valley,  from  Camp  Floyd  151  miles 

Boad  over  the  valley  for  2  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
Shell-Creek  Kanyon,  6  miles  long.  Kough  road ; 
fuel  plentiful.  Descends  into  Spring  Valley,  and 
then  passes  over  other  divides  into  Shell  Creek, 
where  there  is  a  mail  station ;  water,  grass,  and 
fuel  abundant 

Descends  a  rough  road.     Crosses  Steptoe  Valley 
and  bridged  creek.     Road  heavy,  sand  or  mud 
After  16  miles,  Egan's  Kanyon,  dangerous  for 
Indians.     Station  at  the  W.  mouth  burned  by 
Indians  in  October,  1860 

Pass  the  divide,  fall  into  Butte  Vallcj',  and  cross  its 
N.  end.  Bottom  very  cold.  Mail  station  half 
way  up  a  hill ;  a  very  small  spring;  grass  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  hill.     Butte  Station 

Ascend  the  long  divide;  2  steep  hills  and  falls. 
Cross  the  N.  end  of  Long  Valley,  all  banen. 
Ascend  the  divide,  and  descend  into  Ruby  Val- 
ley ;  road  excellent ;  water,  grass,  and  bottom ; 
fuel  distant.     Good  mail  station 

Long  divide;  fuel  plenty  ;  no  grass  nor  woter.  Aft- 
er 10  miles  the  road  branches  to  the  right  hand 
to  Gravelly  Ford  of  Humboldt  River.  Cross  a 
dry  bottom.  Cross  Smith's  Fork  of  Humboldt 
River  in  Huntingdon  Valley;  a  little  stream; 
bunch-grass  and  sage  fuel  on  the  W.  end.  As- 
cend Chokop's  Pass,  Dugway,  and  hard  hill ;  de- 
scend into  Moonshine  Valley.  Station  at  Dia- 
mond Springs;  warm  water,  but  good 

Cross  Moonshine  Valley.  After  7  miles  a  sulphur 
ous  spring  and  grass.  Twelve  miles  beyond  as- 
cend the  divide ;  no  water ;  fuel  and  bunch-grass 
plentiful.  Then  a  long  divide.  After  9  miles, 
the  station  on  Roberts'  Creek,  at  the  E.  end  of 
Shea  wit,  or  Roberts'  Springs  Volley 

Down  the  valley  to  the  west;  good  road;  s.ige  small; 
no  fuel.  After  1 2  miles,  willows  and  water-holes ; 
3  miles  beyond  there  are  alkaline  wells.  Station 
on  the  bench ;  water  below  in  a  dry  creek ;  grass 
must  be  brought  from  15  miles 

Cross  a  long  rough  divide  to  Smoky  Valley.  At 
the  northern  end  is  a  creek  called  ♦' Wanahono])," 
or  " Netwood,"  «.  e.,  trap.  Thence  a  long  rougli 
kanyon  to  Simpson's  Park ;  gra.s8  plentiful ;  wa- 
ter "in  wells  10  feet  deep.  Simpson's  Park  in 
Shoshonee  country,  and,  according  to  Simpson's 
Itinerary,  348  miles  from  Camp  Floyd 

Cross  Simpson's  Park.     Ascend  Simpson's  P 


'ass,  a 


MilM. 


28 


30 


18 


18 


18 


22 


23 


28 


35 


25 


start.    JArrlval. 

Date. 

A.M. 
8 

P.M. 
4 

Oct.  1 

A.M. 

8 

P.M. 

4 

Oct.  3, 4 

A.M. 
6 

P.M. 
11 

Oct.  5 

P.M. 

2 

P.M. 

G 

Oct.  5    , 

P.M. 

8 

A.M. 
3 

Oct.  6 

A.M. 

8 

P.M. 
1  45 

« 

Oct.  7 

A.M. 

8 

P.M. 

1  45 

Oct.  8, 9 

A.M. 

8 

P.M. 

1  45 

Oct.  10 

A.M. 
G  30 

P.M. 

12  3(1 

Oct.  11 

A.M. 
8  15 

P.M. 

2  25 

Oct.  12  1 

i 

APPENDIX  I. 


618 


No.  of 
HsiL 


19. 


20. 


21. 


22. 


23. 


24. 


long  kanyon,  with  sweet  "  Sage  Springs"  on  the 
summit ;  bunch-grass  plentiful.  Descend  to  the 
fork  of  the  road ;  right  hand  to  the  •lower,  left 
hand  to  the  upper  ford  of  Reese's  River.  Water 
perennial  and  good;  food  poor 

Through  the  remainder  of  Reese's  River  Valley. 
After  a  long  divide,  the  Valley  of  Smith's  Creek ; 
saleratus ;  no  water  nor  grass.  At  last,  the  sta- 
tion, near  a  kanyon,  and  hidden  from  view.  The 
land  belongs  to  the  Pa  Yutas 

Ascend  a  rough  kanyon,  and  descend  to  a  barren 
and  saleratus  plain.  Toward  the  south  of  the 
valley  over  bench-land,  rough  with  rock  and 
pitch-hole.  "Cold  Springs  Station"  half  built, 
near  stream ;  fuel  scarce 

At  the  west  gate,  2  miles  from  the  station,  good 
grass.  After  8  miles,  water.  Two  miles  beyond 
is  the  middle  gate ;  water  in  fiumara,  and  grass 
near.  Beyond  the  gate  are  2  basins,  long  di- 
vides, winding  road  to  "Sand  Springs  Valley;" 
bad  water;  little  grass 

Cross  the  valley,  10  miles  to  the  summit,  over  slough 
inundations  and  bad  road.  Summit  shifting 
sand.  Descend  6  miles  to  Carson  Lake ;  water 
tolerable;  tule  abundant.  Round  the  S.side  of 
the  lake  to  the  sink  of  Carson  River  Station ;  no 
provisions;  pasture  good  ;  fuel  scarce 

Cross  a  long  plain.  Ascend  a  very  steep  divide, 
and  sight  Sierra  60  miles  distant.  Descend  to 
Carson  River.  Fort  Churchill  newly  built.  Sut- 
ler's stores,  etc 

Carson  City 

Carson  City  lies  on  the  eastern  foot  of  the  Sier- 
ra Nevada,  distant  552  statute  miles,  according 
to  Captain  Simpson,  from  Camp  Floyd.  The 
present  itinerary  reduces  it  to  544,  and,  adding  44 
miles,  to  a  total  of  588  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 


HilM. 

start. 

A.M. 

16 

10 

A.M. 

28 

7  20 

A.M. 

26 

8  15 

A.M. 

35 

9  60 

A.M. 

25 

11 

A.M. 

26 

9  30 

86 

11 

Arrival. 

DM«. 

P.M. 
2 

Oct.  13 

P.M. 
2  46 

Oct.  14 

P.M. 

4  15 

Oct.  16 

P.M. 
2  30 

Oct.  10 

P.M. 
9 

Oct.  17 

P.M. 

7  16 
10  30 

Oct.  18 
Oct.  19 

Itinerary  of  Captain  J.  H.  Simpson's  Wagon-road  from  Camp  Floyd  to  Genoa, 
Carson  Valley,  Utah  Territory.  Explored  by  direction  of  General  A .  G.  Johnston, 
commanding  the  Department  of  Utah,  between  the  2d  of  May  and  the  12tli  of  June, 
r:'i9. 


Camp  Floyd,  wood  and  grass  in  vicinity 

Meadow  Creek 

Cross  Meadow  Creek  (Rush  Valley),  mail) 
station  i  mile j 

Spring  i  mile  to  the  right  of  General  John-N 
ston's  Pass,  just  after  passing  the  summit. 
This  spring  furnishes  but  little  water,  even 
in  the  spring,  and  in  the  summer  would  bo 
most  probably  dry 

Simpson's  Springs,  mail  station 

Summit,  Short-cut  Pass 


Kk 


Is, 

1 

No.  of 
Camp. 

Wood. 

i 

GniM. 

18-2 

18-2 

18-2 

1 

w 

1 

8-9 

9-9 

28-1 

2 

W 

w 

G. 

162 
21-6 

16-2 

44-3 

3 

W 

Wil- 
low 

w 

G 

5U 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS 


PiACM. 


'.as  . 

»  0  u 

m 


1"6  miles  below  summit. 


1-G 


a 'I 
1^ 


7-8 

4-8 
G-7 
5-4 
3-4 
20-4 


1 

134 


3-5 

3-5 

2-8 

1-3 

C,it\ 

C 

1 


lC-2 


12- 


Tolerable  grass  skirting  a  low  range  of  rocks) 
on  the  right  of  the  road > 

A  little  grass;  sago  in  valley. 

Devil's  Hole ;   water  slightly  brackish 

Fish  Springs,  mail  station 

Warm  Springs 

Grass  in  considerable  quantity  of  good  character 

Alkaline  spring  to  the  right  of  the  road ;  wa^ 
tcr  not  drinkable 

Sulphur  springs;  water  abundant  and  palatable 

Spring,  Pleasant  Valley,  mail  station 

East  side  of  Antelope  Valley 

Spring  Valley ;  good  grass  on  the  west  bench ) 
and  slopes j 

Cross  a  marsh ;  road  takes  up  a  fine  stream ; ) 
griuss  all  along ) 

Leave  Creek 

Spring,  co]iious;   grass  fine 

East  side  of  Steptoo  '/alley,  mail  st.-'tion 

Steptoe  Creek;  dry  in  i.ummer 

Mouth  of  Egnn  Kauyon 

Spring;  source  of  Egan  Creek 

West  side  of  Butte  Valley.  Mail  station  ;  a'v 
very  small  spring,  barely  sutflciont  for  1 
cookir^  purposes,  near  the  top  of  the  hill ;  ( 
grass  (in  the  N.  side  of  same  hill J 

Spring  1  mile  west  side  of  summit  of  range..., 

Uuby  Valley,  mail  station |  9'2 

Smith's  Fork,  Humboldt  Kivcr,  Hunting-) 
don's  Creek J 

Small  mountain  stream 

Spring  left  of  the  road 

Near  wost  foot  of  Cho-kiipe  Pass 

Spring  in  Pah-hun-nui)o  Valley 

Do.  wci^t  side  of  Pah-hun-nupo  Valley 

She-a-wi-te  (Willow)  Creek 

Bed  of  Nash  Itiver;  water  in  pools,  probably) 
not  constant > 

Small  spring;  grass  on  mountain  side,  2> 
miles  off ^ 

Wons-in- dam-me,  or  Anteloiio  Creek 

Creek 

Creek  west  side  of  valley 

Wan-a-ho-no-po  (Netwood  trap)  Creek 

Do.  do.        do        

Simpon's  Park,  according  to  topographer,  '\ 
Lieutenant  Putnam,  and  guide,  Colonel  > 
Uceso ...J 

Small  spring  in  Sim|)son's  Puss^samo  authority) 

Ford  of  Hecse's  Itiver ,..,.,. 

Reese's  Kivcr 

Iioavo  Kcnse'.)  Uivor 

Small  spring  to  the  loft  of  the  road,  Just  be-) 

fore  reaching  thosiminiil  of  the  Puss ) 

leutsnaRt  J.  L.  Kirhy  .Hmith's  Creek,,  ,„„„„ 


23-2 


24-7 
29-7 


I3-4 
12'5 

19- 


11-1 


8,13-3 

8 


•  "•a 


G7-6 


92-2 
12-19 


125- 

138-4 

150-9 

1C9-9 


181-0 
194-3 


18-1 


12- 


212-4 


224-4 


9-2233C 


17-G 
7-1 


13-3 
14-9 


2CI-2 
258-3 


271-G 
2&G-6 


14-4 

3-3 
1-2 

5-8 
7-8 

5-G 

14-9 

IIG 

C-9 

7- 
4-n 
9-5 
18-0 
4-G 

4<9 

3- 

H-2 
2  0 

8-4 

lO-j 

7-?Sl-3SS2-8 

I        I 


17-^.1304- 
7-  l811- 

13-71324-7 

18-2842-9 


4-9 


13-8 


847-8 


801  0 


No.  of 
Camp. 


7 
8 
0 

lO 


11 


12 


13 

14 
15 

IC 
17 

19 

20 
21 

22 

28 

24 


25 


Wood 


Sage 


Ctw 
GW 


W,S 

w 
w 

GW 


3C 


W 
W 
W 

W 
W 

w 
w 

GW 


GW 
GW 
GW 

S,W 
GW 
S,W 


S,W 

W 

S,W 

S,Wj 


Grin. 


S,W|W 
S.WVV 


very 
little 
grass 

G 

G 

G 
G 
G 


G 
G 
G 

G 


G 
G 
G 

G 
G 

O 

G 
G 


G 
G 
G 

G 
G 


O 

O 
(; 
G 

G 

G 


O 

(; 

G 


,GVj,.j 


APPENDIX  II. 


515 


'■j 


FlacM. 


Engleman's  Creek 

Lieutenant  Putnam's  Creek 

Do.  South  Fork 

Rock  Creek 

Do 

Do.       Sinks 

Spring-water  kegs  should  be  filled  for  2  days. 
Camp  from  this  in  alkaline  flat 

Gibraltar  Gate 

Creek  joins  Gibraltar  Creek 

Middle-Gate  Spring 

West  Gate 

Dry  wells;  alkaline  valley;  very  poor  camp ; 
water  and  grass  alkaline,  and  little  of  ci- 
ther,    llabbit-bush  fuel 

Creek  connecting  the  two  lakes  of  Carson.  ^ 
Road  can 'bo  shortened  some  eight  or  ten 
miles  by  striking  across  the  head  of  Alka- 
line Valley  after  getting  about  nine  miles 
from  Camp  30,  and  then  proceeding  di- 
rectly to  the  shore  of  Carson  Lake.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  go  so  far  north  ns  the 
connecting  creek  referred  to 

Leave  Carson  Lake 

Walker's  River 

Do.        do 

Do.       North  Bend 

Small  spring,  not  sufficient  for  a  largo  com-) 
maud;  grass  i  mile  south ) 

Carson  River 

Do.      do 

Pleasant  Grove ;  cross  Carsou  River  and  get) 
into  Old  Emijrnuit  Road.     Mail  station ..) 

China  Town.     Guld  diggings 

Carson  City.     Ea.st  foot  of  Sierra  Nevada.... 

Genoa.  Do.         do.         do 


i. 


1.1* 


S2 


No.  of 
Camp, 


1-G 

8-G 

2-7 

3- 

31 

1-7 

6-4 

0-6 
4-2 
3-2 
3-6 


10-2 


8-7 


14-7 


21-0  24-C 


97 
2ie 


14-1 

1-9 
30 

90 

7-4 

nc 

12-9 


lC-6 


81-2 
10- 
6-3 


190 
90 

19-0 
1 2-9 


393- 


401-7 


41G-4 


440-9 


467-5 


488-7 
498-7 
505- 


524- 
C33- 

552- 
50.4-9 


27 
28 

29 
30 

31 


82 
83 
34 


85 
3C 

37 

38 


Wood 


S,W 
W 
W 
W 


s,w 

Rab 
bush 


Dry 

rush 


W 
W 

w 
s,w 


w 
w 

w 


w 


w 

w 

w 
w 
w 


G 
G 
G 
G 


G 
G 

R,G 


R,G 
G 
G 
G 


0 

G 

G 
G 


i 


n 


(Signed),  J.  II.  Simpson,  Capt.  Top.  Engineers. 

To  Urovot  Major  F,  J.  I'ort"- ,  Aaeiat.  AiU,  Oon.,  Dopt.  Utah,  Camp  Floyd. 


n.  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  AIORMON  TEMPLE. 

[Extracted  from  the  IkscrCt  iVcics.] 

The  following  is  a  brief  detail  of  the  temple,  tiiken  from  drawings  in  my  office  in 
Great  Salt  Lake  Citv. 

The  Tomiilc  Hloi-k  is  40  rods  square,  the  lines  nmning  north  and  south,  east  and 
west,  and  contaiuM  10  acres.  The  centre  of  the  temple  is  150  feet  0  inches  duo  west 
from  tho  centre  of  the  east  lino  of  tlio  block.  The  lenj^th  of  said  house  east  and  west  is 
1 SOJ  feet,  includiug  towers,  and  the  width  99  feet.  On  the  cost  end  there  are  three  tow- 
ers, as  also  on  tlio  west.  Draw  a  line  north  '  nl  soutli  J 1 8^  feet  through  tho  centre  of 
tho  lower,  and  jou  have  the  north  and  south     tent  of  ground-plan,  including  pedestal. 

We  deprcKS  into  tho  earth  at  tlio  cast  end  to  tho  depth  of  10  foct,  and  onlnrgw  nil 
nrnuiid  Ix'vond  tho  lines  of  ■■all  3  foct  for  a  fooling.  The  north  and  south  waiJ!)  are 
8  feet  lliick  dear  of  |)edcstal ;  ihcy  stand  upon  a  fooling  of  10  feet  wall  on  its  bear- 
ing, which  slopes  3  feel  on  each  siilc  lo  the  height  of  7i  foot.  The  footing  of  tho 
tfiwors  rise  lo  the  same  height  as  the  nide,  and  is  one  solid  piece  of  moaonry  of  rough 
uhiars,  laid  in  good  iinio  mortar. 


616 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


The  basement  of  the  main  building  is  divided  into  many  rooms  by  walls,  all  hay- 
ing footings.  The  line  of  the  basement  floor  is  6  inches  above  the  top  of  the  footing. 
From  the  towers  on  the  cast  to  the  towers  on  the  west,  the  face  of  the  earth  slopes  6 
feet;  4  inches  above  the  earth  on  the  east  line  begins  a  promenade  walk  from  11  to 
22  feet  wide  around  the  entire  building,  and  approached  by  stone  steps  as  the  earth 
slopes  and  requires  them.  There  are  four  towers  on  the  four  comers  of  the  building, 
each  starting  from  their  footing  of  26  feet  square ;  these  continue  16i  feet  high,  and 
come  to  the  line  of  the  b"""?  string  course,  which  is  8  feet  above  the  promenade  walk. 
At  tliis  point  the  towers  are  reduced  to  25  feet  square ;  they  then  continue  to  the 
hciglit  of  38  feet,  or  the  height  of  the  second  string  course.  At  this  poin.,  they  are 
reduced  to  23  feet  square ;  they  then  continue  38  feet  high  to  the  third  string  course. 
Tlie  string  courses  continue  all  around  the  building,  except  when  separated  by  but- 
U'csses.     These  string  courses  are  massive  mouldings  from  solid  blocks  of  stone, 

The  two  east  towers  then  rise  25  feet  to  a  string  course  or  cornice.  The  two  west 
towers  rise  19  feet,  and  come  to  their  string  course  or  cornice.  Tlie  four  towers  then 
rise  9  feet  to  the  top  of  battlements.  These  towers  are  cylindrical,  having  17  feet  di- 
ameter inside,  within  which  stairs  ascend  around  a  solid  column  4  feet  in  diameter, 
allowing  landings  at  the  various  sections  of  the  building.  These  towers  have  each 
live  ornamental  windows  on  two  sides  above  the  basement.  The  two  centre  towers 
occupy  the  centre  of  the  east  and  west  ends  of  the  building,  starting  from  their  foot- 
ings 31  feet  square,  and  break  off  in  st^ctions  in  lino  with  corner  towers,  to  the  heiglit 
of  the  third  string  course.  The  cast  centre  tower  then  rises  40  feet  to  the  top  of  bat- 
tlements ;  the  west  centre  tower  rises  34  feet  to  the  top  of  battlements.  All  these 
towers  have  spires ;  tne  east  centre  tower  rises  200  feet,  while  the  west  centre  tower 
rises  190  feet.  All  these  towers  at  their  corners  have  octagon  turrets,  terminated  by 
octagon  pinnacles  5  feet  diameter  at  base,  4  feet  at  first  story,  and  three  feet  from 
there  u]).  There  arc  also  on  each  side  of  these  towers  two  buttresses,  except  where 
they  come  in  contact  with  the  body  of  the  main  building.  The  top  of  those  buttress- 
es  show  forty-eight  in  number,  and  stand  upon  jjcdostals.  The  siiace  Iwtween  the 
l)uttrcssos  and  turrets  is  2  feet  at  the  ili-st  story.  On  the  front  of  the  two  centre  tow- 
ers arc  two  largo  windows,  each  82  feet  high,  ono  above  the  other,  neatly  prepared  for 
that  place. 

On  the  two  west  corner  towers,  and  on  the  west  end  a  few  feet  liclow  the  top  of 
battloinents,  may  be  seen  in  alto-relievo  ond  bold  relief  the  great  dipper,  or  Ursa  Ma- 
jor, witli  the  pointers  ranging  nearly  toward  the  north  star.  (Moral :  the  lost  may 
find  themselves  by  the  i)riesthood.^ 

I  will  now  glance  at  the  main  btxly  of  the  house.  I  have  before  stated  that  tlio 
basement  was  divided  into  many  rooms.  The  central  one  is  arranged  for  a  baptismal 
font,  and  is  59  feet  long  by  35  feet  wide,  separated  from  the  main  wall  by  four  rooms, 
two  on  each  side,  19  feet  long  by  12  feet  wide.  On  the  cast  and  west  sides  of  these 
rooms  arc  four  passages  12  feet  wide;  those  lead  to  and  from  by  outside  iloors,  two 
on  the  north  and  two  on  the  south.  Farther  east  and  west  frotn  these  passages  are 
four  more  rooms,  two  at  each  end,  28  feet  wide  by  38J  long.  Tiicso  two  thin  walls 
occupy  the  basement.  All  the  walls  start  oft"  their  footings,  and  vise  IGJ  feet,  and 
there  stop  with  groin  ceiling. 

Wo  are  now  up  to  the  lino  of  the  base  string  course,  8  foot  nlwve  the  promonado 
or  stops  rising  to  flio  temple,  which  terminates  at  the  coi>o  of  the  pedestal,  anil  to  the 
tlrst  floor  of  said  iiouso.  This  i-ooni  is  joined  to  the  outer  courts,  those  courts  being 
the  width  l>etween  towers  1(J  feet  by  9  in  the  clear.  We  ascend  to  tlie  floors  of  thc»o 
courts  (they  Iwiiig  on  a  lino  with  the  first  floor  of  the  main  house)  by  four  flights  of 
stone  mops  9i  foot  wide,  arranged  in  the  basomont  work,  the  first  step  ranging  to  fho 
outer  lino  of  towors.     From  those  courts  doors  admit  to  any  part  of  the  building. 

The  m%o  of  the  first  largo  room  is  120  feet  long  by  80  feet  wido ;  the  height  reaches 
nearly  to  the  sooond  string  coursi'.  The  room  is  arched  over  in  the  centre  with  an 
clllptual  arch,  which  dn>j)S  at  its  flank  10  foot,  and  has  3H  fwt  span.  The  side  ceil- 
ings have  ono  fourth  elliptical  arches,  which  start  from  the  side  walls  of  the  main 
building  IC  foot  high,  and  tcrminato  at  the  capitals  of  the  columnn,  or  foot  of  contro 
anil,  at  the  height  of  2!  fict.  Tim  columns  obtain  their  Iwarings  direct  from  the 
footings  of  the  said  houso ;  those  columns  extend  up  to  support  Iho  floor  above.  Tlio 
outsido  walls  of  this  story  are  7  feet  thick.  The  space,  from  the  torminatitm  of  the 
fc»ot  of  thn  contm  orch  to  the  outer  wall,  Is  divided  into  sixteen  conipnrtmonfs,  eight 
in  oaili  side,  making  rooms  14  foot  by  14,  clear  of  partiticms,  and  10  feet  high,  leav- 
iiig  a  pr^^sagv  ol  C  foot  wido  naxi  lO  vuCh  nank  of  iiio  cuiiliu  lifcli,  wiiich  ia  mipn^iicii- 


APPENDIX  III. 


617 


ed  from  the  ends.    These  rooms  are  each  lighted  by  an  elliptical  or  oval  window, 
whose  major  axis  is  vertical. 

The  second  largo  room  is  one  foot  wider  than  the  room  below ;  this  is  in  conse- 
quence of  the  wall  being  but  G  feet  thick,  falling  off  6  inches  on  the  inner  and  6  on 
the  outer  side.  The  second  string  course  provides  for  this  on  the  outer  side.  The 
rooms  of  this  story  are  similar  to  those  below.  The  side  walls  have  nine  buttresses 
on  a  side,  and  have  eight  tiers  of  windows,  five  in  each  tier. 

The  foot  of  the  basement  windows  arc  8  inches  above  the  promenade,  rise  3  feet 
perpendicular,  and  terminate  in  a  semicircular  head.  The  first-story  windows  liave 
12  feet  long  of  sash  to  the  top  of  the  semicircular  head.  The  oval  wind-^ws  have  CJ 
feet  length  of  sash.  The  windows  of  the  second  story  are  the  same  as  i.iose  below. 
All  these  frames  have  4i  feet  width  of  sash.  Tlie  pedestals  under  all  the  buttresses 
project  at  their  base  2  feet ;  above  their  base,  whicli  is  15  inches  by  4i  feet  wide,  on 
each  front  is  a  figure  of  a  globe  3  feet  11  inches  across,  whose  axis  coreesponds  with 
the  axis  of  the  earth. 

The  base  string  course  forms  a  cope  for  those  pedestals.  Above  this  cope  the  but- 
tresses arc  3J  feet,  and  continue  to  the  height  of  100  feet.  Above  the  promenade, 
close  under  the  second  string  coui-se  on  each  of  the  buttresses,  is  tlie  moon,  represent- 
ed in  its  different  phases.  Close  under  the  third  string  course  or  cornice  is  the  face 
of  the  sun.  Immediately  above  is  Saturn  with  his  rin^s.  The  buttresses  tcrminato 
with  a  projected  cope. 

The  only  difference  between  the  tower  buttresses  and  the  one  just  described  is,  in- 
stead of  Saturn  being  on  them,  we  have  clouds  and  rays  of  light  descending. 

All  of  these  symbols  are  to  bo  chiseled  in  bas-relief  on  solid  stone.  The  side  walls 
continue  above  the  string  course  or  cornice  8  J  feet,  making  the  walls  96  feet  high, 
and  are  formed  in  battlements  intcrspei-sed  with  stars. 

This  roof  is  quite  flat,  rising  only  8  feet,  and  is  to  be  covered  with  galvanized  iron 
or  some  other  metal.  The  building  is  to  be  otherwise  ornamented  in  many  places. 
The  whole  structure  is  designed  to  symbolize  some  of  tlio  great  architectural  work 
above.  The  basement  windows  recede  in  from  (he  face  of  tlie  outer  wall  to  the  Hash 
frame  23  inches,  and  are  relieved  by  a  largo  cavetto,  while  on  the  inside  they  are  ap- 
proached by  stone  steps. 

Those  windows  above  the  base  recede  from  the  face  of  the  wall  to  the  sash  frame 
8  feet,  and  arc  surrounded  by  stone  jambs  formed  in  mouldings,  and  surmounted  by 
labels  over  each,  which  terminate  at  their  horizon,  exccjiting  the  oval  windows,  whose 
labels  terminate  as  columns,  which  extend  from  an  enriched  string  course  at  tlip  foot 
of  each  window  to  the  centre  of  the  major  axis.  My  cliicf  object  in  the  last  para- 
graph is  to  show  to  the  judgment  of  any  who  may  bo  baffled  how  those  windows  can 
bo  come  at,  etc.,  etc.  All  the  windows  in  tlio  towers  arc  moulded,  and  have  stone 
jambs,  each  being  crowned  with  label  mouldings.  The  whole  house  covers  nn  arcu 
of  21,850  feet. 

Tor  further  particulars,  wait  till  the  house  is  done,  then  come  and  see  it. 

(Signed),  TuuMAN  O.  Anqell,  Archilcct, 


ti 


ttl 


III.  THE  MARTVRDOM  OF  JOSEPH  SMITH. 

BY  APOSTLE  JOHN  TATLOB. 

Bginq  rcquostod  by  George  A.  Smith  and  Willford  Woodruff,  Church  historians, 
to  write  nn  account  of  events  that  iranspircd  before  and  too'i  place  at  the  time  of  the 
nmrtyrdoin  of  Joseph  Smitii,  in  Cartilage  jail,  in  Hancock  County,  State  of  Illinois, 
I  write  the  following  principuliy  from  memory,  not  having  access  to  any  jiublic  docu- 
ments relative  thereto  fartlicr  than  a  few  desultory  items  contained  in  lord's  "  His- 
tory of  Illinois.''  I  must  also  acknowledge  myself  considerably  indebted  to  Georgo 
A.  Smith,  who  was  with  mo  when  1  wrote  it,  and  wiio,  although  not  there  nt  the 
time  of  the  bloody  tiJiiunclion,  yet  from  convemng  with  several  jxirsons  who  were  in 
th'j  capai'lly  of  Chnrcli  historians,  and  aided  by  an  excellent  mcmorv,  has  rendered 
mo  a  consideniblo  service.  Tiicsc  and  the  few  Items  contained  in  tlio  notes  nt  the 
end  of  this  tucount  is  all  the  aid  I  have  had.  I  would  farther  add  that  the  items 
contained  in  the  letter,  in  rcl.ition  to  dates  esiieciully,  luny  bo  considered  strictly 
correct. 

After  having  written  tho  whole,  I  read  it  over  to  iho  Hob.  J.  M.  Bcfnhtstl,  who, 


f 


i-i 


518 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


with  one  or  two  slight  alterations,  pronounced  it  strictly  correct.  Brother  Bemhisel 
was  present  most  of  the  time.  I  am  afraid  that,  from  the  length  of  time  that  has 
transi)ircd  smce  the  occurrence,  and  having  to  rely  almost  exclusively  on  my  memory 
there  may  be  some  slight  inaccuracies,  but  I  believe  that  in  the  general  it  is  strictly 
correct ;  as  I  figured  in  those  transactions  from  tho  commencement  to  the  end,  they 
left  no  slight  impression  on  my  mind. 

In  tlic  year  1844,  a  very  great  excitement  prevailed  in  some  parts  of  the  counties 
of  Hancock,  Brown,  and  other  neighboring  c(, unties,  in  relation  to  tho  "  Mormons," 
ond  a  spirit  of  vindictive  hatred  and  persecution  was  exhibited  among  the  people 
which  was  manifested  in  the  most  bitter  and  acrimonious  language,  as  well  as  by 
acts  of  hostility  and  violence,  frequently  threatening  tho  destruction  of  the  citizens  of 
Nauvoo  and  vicinity,  and  utter  annihilation  of  the  "Mormons"  and  "Mormonism  " 
and  in  some  instances  breaking  out  in  the  most  violent  acts  of  ruffianly  barbarity  • 
persons  were  kidnapped,  whipped,  prosecuted,  and  falsely  accused  of  various  crimes  ' 
their  cattle  and  houses  injured,  destroyed,  or  stolen ;  vexatious  prosecutions  were 
instituted  to  vex,  harass,  and  annoy.  In  some  remote  neighborhoods  they  were  ex- 
pelled from  their  homes  without  redress,  and  in  others  violence  was  threatened  to 
their  persons  and  proj)erty,  while  in  others  every  kind  of  insult  and  indignity  was 
heaped  upon  them,  to  induce  them  to  abandon  their  homes,  the  county,  or  the  state. 
These  annoyances,  jjrosccutions,  and  persecutions  were  instigated  through  different 
agencies  and  by  various  classes  of  men,  actuated  by  different  motives,  but  all  uniting 
m  the  one  object,  prosecution,  persecution,  and  extermination  of  the  Ssiints. 

There  were  a  number  of  wicked  and  corrupt  men  living  in  Nauvoo  and  its  vicinity 
who  had  belonged  to  the  Church,  but  whose  conduct  was  incompatible  with  the 
Gospel ;  they  were  accordingly  dealt  with  by  the  Church  and  severed  from  its  com- 
munion; some  of  these  had  been  prominent  members,  and  held  official  stations 
«r„'" '"  r  *^"y  "'■  f''>"'"<^''-  Among  these  was  John  C.  Bennett,  formerly  Mayor; 
William  Law,  Councilor  to  Joseph  Smith;  Wilson  Law,  his  natural  brJther,  and 
genera  in  the  Nauvoo  Legion ;  Dr.  K.  1).  Foster,  a  man  of  some  property,  but  with 
n  very  bad  reputation  ;  Francis  and  Chaunccy  lligbce,  the  latter  a  voung  lawyer,  and 
both  sons  of  a  respectable  and  honored  man  in  the  Church,  knoWn  as  Judge  Elias 
Uigbee,  who  died  about  twelve  months  l)efore. 

Besides  these,  there  were  a  great  many  apostates,  both  in  tho  city  and  countrj- 
of  less  notoriety,  who,  for  their  delinqiieneies,  had  been  cxi)elled  from  the  Church! 
John  C.  Bennett  and  Francis  and  Chaunccy  Uigbee  were  cut  off  from  the  Church- 
the  former  was  also  cashiered  from  his  generalship  for  the  most  flagrant  acts  of 
seduction  and  adultery ;  and  such  was  the  scandalous  nature  of  the  developments  in 
their  eases,  that  tho  high  council  before  whom  they  wore  tried  had  to  sit  with  closed 
doors. 

William  Law,  although  councilor  to  Joseph,  was  found  to  he  his  most  bitter  foo 
and  maligner,  and  to  hold  intercourse,  contrnrv  to  all  lau,  in  his  own  house  with  a 
young  lady  resident  with  him,  and  it  was  afterward  proved  that  ho  had  conspired 
with  some  Miswnirians  to  take  Joseph  Smith's  life,  and  was  only  saved  by  Josiah 
Arnold,  who,  being  on  guard  at  his  house,  i)revented  the  assassins' from  seeing  him 
Yet  although  having  murder  in  his  heart,  his  manners  were  generally  courteous  and 
mild,  and  ho  was  well  calculated  to  deceive. 

General  Wilson  Law  was  cut  off  from  tho  Church  for  seduction,  falsehood  and 
dcfiimation;  Ixith  the  almvo  were  also  court-martialed  bv  the  Nauvoo  Legion' and 
expelled.  Foster  was  also  cut  off,  I  believe,  for  dishonesty,  fraud,  and  falsehood  I 
know  he  was  eminently  guilty  of  the  whole,  but  whether  these  worn  tho  specific 
cliargcs  or  not,  I  don't  know,  but  1  do  know  that  ho  was  a  notoriously  wicked  and 
corrupt  mnn. 

Besides  the  nlKive  characteri!  and  "Mormonic"  npoBtntcs,  there  wero  other  three 
parties,  riie  first  of  these  may  Ik-  called  religionists,  the  second  i.oliticians,  and  the 
third  counterfeiters,  blacklegs,  jior^o-thieves,  and  cut-thronts. 

The  religious  party  were  chagrined  and  maddened  1k'c«uso  "Mormonism"  camo 
in  contact  with  their  religion,  and  they  could  not  oi.|)ose  It  from  the  Scriptures ;  and 
tluis,  like  tho  ancient  Jews,  when  enraged  iit  the  exhibition  of  their  follies  and 
hypocrisies  by  Ji-hun  and  his  ajwsiles,  so  these  were  infuriated  against  the  Mormons 
because  of  their  discomfiluro  by  them  ;  and  instead  of  owning  the  truth  and  rejoicing 
in  It,  they  were  ready  to  gnash  upon  them  with  their  teeth,  and  to  iiemccntc  tho  be- 
lievers m  |)rinci|)les  which  they  rould  not  disprove. 

Tho  iKiliticol  parly  wero  tlio>u  who  were  of  opiiosito  politics  to  u.«.     Thorn  were 


APPENDIX  in. 


519 


always  two  parties,  the  Whigs  and  Democrats,  and  wo  could  not  Totc  for  one  with- 
out offending  the  other ;  and  it  not  unfrequently  happened  that  candidates  for  office 
would  p-ace  the  issue  of  their  election  upon  opposition  to  the  "Mormons,"  in  order 
to  gain  political  influence  from  religious  prejudice,  in  which  case  the  "Mormons" 
were  compelled,  in  self-defense,  to  vote  against  them,  which  resulted  almost  invaria- 
bly against  our  opponents.  This  made  them  angry;  and,  although  it  was  of  their 
own  making,  and  the  "Mormons"  could  not  be  expected  to  do  otherwise,  yet  they 
raged  on  account  of  their  discomfiture,  and  sought  to  wreak  their  fury  on  the  "  Mor- 
mons." As  an  instance  of  the  above,  when  Joseph  Duncan  was  candidate  for  the 
office  of  Governor  of  Illinois,  he  pledged  himself  to  his  party  that,  if  he  could  bo 
elected,  he  would  exterminate  or  drive  the  "Mormons"  from  the  state.*  The  con- 
sequence was  that  Governor  Ford  was  elected.  The  Whigs,  seeing  that  tlicy  had 
been  outgeneraled  by  the  Democrats  in  securing  the  "  Mormon"  vote,  became  seri- 
ously alarmed,  and  sought  to  repair  their  disaster  by  raising  a  kind  of  crusade  against 
that  pco])le.  The  Whig  newspapers  teemed  witli  accounts  of  tlie  wonders  and  enor- 
mities of  Nauvoo,  and  of  the  awful  wickedness  of  a  party  whicli  could  consent  to 
receive  the  support  of  such  miscreants.  Governor  Duncan,  who  was  really  a  brave, 
honest  man,  and  who  had  nothing  to  do  with  getting  the  "  Mormon"  charters  passed 
through  the  Legislature,  took  the  stump  on  this  subject  in  good  earnest,  (#id  exjjccted 
to  bo  elected  governor  almost  on  this  question  alone.  The  third  party,  composed 
of  counterfeiters,  blacklegs,  horse-thieves,  and  cut-throats,  were  a  p""k  of  scoundrels 
that  infested  the  whole  of  the  Western  country  at  that  time.  In  some  districts  their 
influence  was  so  great  as  to  control  important  stat!  and  county  offices.  On  this 
subject  Governor  Ford  says  the  following  : 

"Then,  again,  the  northern  part  of  the  state  vas  not  destitute  of  its  organized 
bands  of  rogues,  engaged  in  murders,  robberies,  1  orse-stealing,  and  in  making  and 
passing  counterfeit  money.  These  rogues  were  scattered  all  over  the  north,  but  the 
most  of  them  were  located  in  the  counties  of  Ogle,  Winnebago,  Lee,  and  De  Kalb. 

"In  the  county  of  Ogle  they  were  so  numerous,  strong,  and  well  organized  that 
they  could  not  be  convicted  for  their  crimes.  By  getting  some  of  their  numiiers  on 
the  juries,  by  producing  a  host  of  witnesses  to  sustain  their  defense  by  perjured  evi- 
dence, and  by  changing  the  venue  of  one  county  to  another,  by  continuances  from 
term  to  term,  and  by  the  inability  of  witnesses  to  attend  from  time  to  time  at  distant 
aiyl  foreign  counties,  they  most  generally  managed  to  bo  acquitted."! 

Tlierc  was  a  combination  of  horse-thieves  extending  from  Galena  to  Alton.  There 
were  counteifeitcrs  engaged  in  merchandising,  trading,  and  store-kccinng  in  most 
of  the  cities  and  villages,  and  in  some  districts,  I  have  been  credibly  informed  by 
men  to  whom  they  have  disclosed  their  secrets,  tlic  judges,  sherifl's,  constables,  and 
jailers,  as  well  as  professional  men,  were  more  or  less  associated  with  them.  These 
had  in  tlieir  employ  the  most  reckless,  abandoned  wretches,  wlio  stood  ready  to  carry 
into  effect  the  most  desperate  enterprises,  and  were  careless  alike  of  human  life  and 
property.  Their  object  in  j)ersecuting  the  "Mormons"  was  in  part  to  cover  their 
own  rascality,  and  in  part  to  i)revent  thcin  from  exposing  and  prosecuting  them  ;  but 
the  principal  reason  was  plunder,  believing  that  if  they  could  be  removed  or  driven 
they  would  bo  made  fat  on  Mormon  spoils,  besides  havnig  in  the  deserted  city  a  good 
osylum  for  the  jjrosccution  of  their  diabolical  pursuits. 

This  conglomcraiiim  of  apostate  Mormons,  religious  bigots,  political  fanatics,  and 
combination  of  blacklegs,  all  united  their  forces  against  the  "  Mormons,"  and  organ- 
ized themselves  into  a  party,  denominated  "anti-Mormons."  Some  of  them,  wc 
have  reason  to  believe,  joined  the  Church  in  order  to  cover  tlieir  nefarious  practices, 
and  when  they  were  cxjK'lled  for  their  nnrighlcou8nc.<is  only  raged  whh  greater  vio- 
lence. They  circulated  every  kind  of  falsehood  that  they  could  collect  or  manufac- 
ture against  the  Mormons.  They  also  had  a  paper  to  assist  them  in  their  ])ropaga- 
tions  called  the  "Warsaw  Signal,"  edited  by  a  Mr.  Thomas  Sharp,  a  violent  and 
unprincijiled  man,  who  shrunk  not  from  any  enormity.  The  anti-Mormons  had 
public  meetings,  which  were  very  numerously  attended,  whore  they  passed  resolutions 
of  the  most  violent  and  inflammatory  kind,  tiireatcning  to  drive,  expel,  and  cxterm- 
iiinto  the  "  Morriions"  from  tlio  stale,  ut  tho  satuo  tiinu  accusing  them  of  all  the 
vo("nbulary  of  crime. 

They  appointed  their  meetings  in  vorions  parts  of  Hancock,  M'Donough,  and  t''  r 
counties,  which  soon  resulted  in  tho  organization  of  armed  mobs,  under  tho  diructluu 

*  IVo  hia  ri'mnrku  n*  r  niliilDrMl  In  lila  Illatorv  of  Illlnut*.  D.  i09. 
t  Kurd'i  liutory  oUUinuU,  II. '^-W. 


;*■ 


)(« 


3^.Xit^:tmi»iiiHmirfri^..  v 


520 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


of  officers  who  reported  to  their  head-quarters,  and  the  reports  of  which  were  pub- 
lished in  the  anti-Mormon  paper,  and  circulated  through  the  adjoining  counties 
We  also  published  in  the  "Times  and  Seasons"  and  the  "Nauvoo  Neighbor"  (two 
papers  published  and  edited  by  me  at  that  time)  an  account,  not  only  of  their  pro- 
ceedings, but  our  own.  But  such  was  the  hostile  feeling,  so  well  arranged  their 
plans,  and  so  desperate  and  lawless  their  measures,  that  it  was  with  the  greatest  dif- 
ficulty that  we  could  get  our  papers  circulated ;  they  were  destroyed  by  postmasters 
and  others,  and  scarcely  ever  arrived  at  the  place  of  their  destination,  so  that  a  great 
many  of  tiie  people,  who  would  have  been  otherwise  peaceable,  were  excited  by  their 
misrepresentations,  and  instigated  to  join  their  hostile  or  predatory  bands. 

Emboldened  by  the  acts  of  those  outside,  the  apostate  "  Mormons, "  associated  witli 
othoi-s,  commenced  the  publication  of  a  libelous  paper  in  Nauvoo,  called  the  "Nauvoo 
Expositor."    This  paper  not  only  reprinted  from  the  others,  but  put  in  circulation 
the  most  libelous,  false,  aud  infamous  reports  concerning  the  citizens  of  Nauvoo  and 
especially  the  ladies.     It  was,  however,  no  sooner  put  in  circulation  than  the  indig- 
nation of  the  whole  community  was  aroused ;  so  much  so,  that  they  threatened  its 
annihilation ;  and  I  do  not  believe  that  in  any  other  city  in  the  United  States,  if  the 
same  charce  hud  been  made  against  the  citizens,  it  would  have  been  permitted  to 
remain  onff  day.     As  it  was  among  us,  under  these  circumstances,  it  was  thought 
best  to  convene  the  City  Council  to  take  into  consideration  the  adoption  of  some 
measures  for  its  removal,  as  it  was  deemed  better  that  this  should  be  done  legally 
than  illegally     Joseph  Smith,  therefore,  who  was  then  mayor,  convened  the  City 
Council  tor  that  purpose ;  the  paper  was  introduced  and  read,  and  the  subject  ex- 
amined.    All,  or  nearly  nil  present,  expressed  their  indignation  at  the  course  taken 
.'.:;  the     Expositor,'  which  was  owned  by  some  of  the  aforesaid  apostates,  associated 
with  one  or  two  others:  Wilson  Law,  Dr.  Foster,  Charles  Ivins,  and  the  Iligbees 
before  referred  to,  some  lawyers,  store-keepers,  and  othere  in  Nauvoo  who  were  not 
Mormons,    together  with  the  "nnti-Mormons"  outside  of  the  city,  sustained  it. 
Ihe  cit  'ilation  was,  by  false  statements,  to  unsettle  the  minds  of  many  in  the  city 
and  to»i.im  combinations  there  similar  to  the  onti-Mormon  associations  outside  of 
the  city.     Various  attempts  had  therefore  been  niudo  by  the  party  to  annoy  and  irri- 
tate the  citizens  of  Nauvoo ;  false  accusations  hud  been  made,  vexatious  lawsuits 
instituted,  threats  made,  and  various  devices  resorted  to  to  influence  the  public  mind 
and,  if  possible,  to  induce  us  to  the  commission  of  some  overt  act  that  might  make 
us  amenable  to  the  law.     With  a  perfect  knowledge,  therefore,  of  the  designs  of 
these  infernal  scoundrels  who  were  in  our  midst,  as  well  as  of  those  who  surrounded 
us,  the  City  Council  entered  upon  an  investigation  of  the  matter.     They  felt  that 
they  were  in  a  critical  position,  and  that  any  move  made  for  the  abating  of  that 
press  would  bo  looked  upon,  or  at  least  represented,  as  a  direct  attack  upon  the  lib- 
erty of  speech,  and  that,  so  far  from  displeasing  our  enemies,  it  would  be  looked  upon 
by  them  as  one  of  the  best  circumstances  that  could  transpire  to  ossist  them  in  their 
nefarious  mid  bloody  designs.     Being  a  member  of  the  City  Council,  I  well  remem- 
ber the  fee  ing  of  responsibility  that  seemed  to  rest  upon  all  present ;  nor  shall  I  soon 
torget  the  bold,  manly,  independent  expressions  of  Joseph  Smith  on  that  occasion  in 
relation  to  this  matter.     Ho  exhibited  in  glowing  colore  the  meanness,  corrui)tion. 
and  ultimate  designs  of  the  "anti-Mormons;"  their  despicable  characters  and  un- 
godly influences  especially  of  those  who  were  in  our  midst;  he  told  of  the  responsi- 
bility that  rested  upon  us,  as  guardians  of  the  jmblic  interest,  to  stand  up  in  the 
defense  of  the  injured  and  oppressed,  to  stem  the  current  of  corruption,  and,  as  men 
ana  saints,  to  put  a  stop  to  this  flagrant  outrage  upon  this  topic's  rights.     He  stated 
that  no  man  was  a  stronger  advocate  for  the  lilx-rty  of  speech  and  „f  the  press  than 
himself;  yet,  when  this  noble  gift  is  utterly  prostituted  and  abused,  as  in  the  present 
instance,  it  loses  all  claim  to  our  respect,  aiil  becomes  as  great  an  agent  for  evil  ns 
It  can  iKissibly  bo  for  good  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  apparent  advantage  we  should 
Rive  our  enemies  by  this  act,  yet  it  behooved  us,  as  men,  to  act  indciiondent  of  all 
■ecomlary  influences,  to  perform  the  port  of  men  of  enlarged  minds,  and  Iwldly  and 
fearlessly  to  discharge  the  duties  devolving  upon  us  by  declaring  as  a  nuisance,  and 
"^m?^ '"'^  this  filthy,  libelous,  and  seditious  sheet  from  our  midst. 

The  subject  was  distussed  in  vorious  fd  ins,  and  after  the  remarks  made  by  the 
mayor,  every  one  seemed  to  Iks  welting  for  some  one  else  fo  npoak.  After  a  consid- 
ornhl(<  pause,  I  arose  and  expressed  my  feelings  frankl;,  <>.  Joseph  had  chme,  and 
numbers  of  others  followed  in  the  same  strain  ;  and  1  thi;ii  li-it  am  not  certain,  that 
I  made  a  motion  for  the  removal  of  that  press  as  a  nuisar ,,  •     This  motion  was  finally 


APPENDIX  III. 


521 


put,  and  carried  by  all  but  one ;  and  he  conceded  that  the  measure  was  just,  but  ab- 
stained through  fear. 

Several  members  of  the  City  Council  were  not  in  the  Church.  The  following  is 
the  bill  referred  to : 

Bill  for  Removing  of  the  Press  of  the  "  Nauvoo  Expositor."* 
"  Resolved  by  the  City  Council  of  the  City  of  Nauvoo,  that  the  printing-office  from 
whence  issues  the  '  Nauvoo  Expositor'  is  a  public  nuisance ;  and  also  all  of  said  '  Nau- 
voo Expositors'  which  may  be  or  exist  in  said  establishment ;  and  the  mayor  is  in- 
structed to  cause  said  establishment  and  papers  to  be  removed  without  delay,  in  such 
manner  as  he  shall  direct. 

"Passed  June  10th,  1844.  Geo.  W.  Habeis,  President /jro  iein. 

"  W.  Richards,  Recorder."  = 

After  the  passage  of  the  bill,  the  marshal,  John  P.Green,  was  ordered  to  abate  or 
remove,  whicii  he  forthwith  proceeded  to  do  by  summoning  a  posse  of  men  for  that 
purpose.  The  press  was  removed  or  broken,  I  don't  remember  which,  by  the  mar- 
shal, and  the  types  scattered  in  the  street. 

This  seemed  to  be  one  of  those  extreme  cases  that  require  extreme  measures,  as 
the  .press  was  still  proceeding  in  its  inflammatory  course.  It  was  feared  that,  as  it 
was  almost  universally  execrated,  should  it  continue  longer,  an  indignant  people 
might  commit  some  overt  act  which  might  lead  to  serious  consequences,  and  that  it 
was  better  to  use  legal  than  illegal  means. 

This,  as  was  foreseen,  was  the  very  course  onr  enemies  wished  us  to  pursue,  as  it 
aiforded  them  an  opportunity  of  circulating  a  very  plausible  story  about  the  "Mor- 
mons" being  opposed  to  the  liberty  of  the  press  {ind  of  free  speech,  which  they  were 
not  slow  to  avail  themselves  of.  Stories  were  fabricated,  and  facts  perverted  ;  false 
statements  were  made,  and  this  act  brought  in  as  an  example  to  sustain  the  whole  of 
their  fabrications  ;  and,  as  if  inspired  by  Satan,  they  labored  with  an  energy  and  zeal 
worthy  of  a  better  cause.  They  had  runners  to  circulate  their  report!?,  not  only 
through  Hancock  Co.,  but  in  all  the  surrounding  counties ;  these  reports  were  com- 
municated to  their  "anti-Mormon"  societies,  and  these  societies  circulated  them  in 
their  several  districts.  The  "anti-Mormon"  paper,  the  "Warsaw  Signal,"  was  filled 
with  inflammatory  articles  and  misrepresentations  in  relation  to  us,  and  esjjecially  to 
this  act  of  destroying  the  press.  We  were  re])resented  as  a  horde  of  lawless  ruffians 
and  brigands,  anti-American  and  anti-rciAiblican,  steeped  in  crime  and  iniquity,  op- 
posed  to  freedom  of  speech  and  of  the  jjress,  and  all  the  rights  and  immunities  of  a 
free  and  enlightened  people  ;  that  neither  persons  nor  property  were  secure  ;  that  wo 
had  designs  upon  the  citizens  of  Illinois  and  of  the  United  States,  and  the  people 
were  called  u])on  to  rise  en  masse,  and  put  us  down,  drive  us  away,  or  exterminate  us 
as  a  pest  to  society,  and  alike  dangerous  to  our  neighbors,  the  state,  and  common- 
wealth. 

These  statements  were  extensively  copied  and  circulated  throughout  the  United 
States.  A  true  statement  of  tho  facts  in  question  was  published  by  us  both  in  the 
"Times  and  Seasons"  and  the  "Nauvoo  Neighbor,"  but  it  was  found  iinjiossible  to 
circulate  them  in  the  immediate  counties,  as  they  were  destroyed  at  the  iiost-offices 
or  otlienvise  by  the  agents  of  the  anti-Mormons,  and,  in  order  to  get  the  mail  to  go 
abroad,  I  had  to  send  the  ])aiiers  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  from  Nauvoo, 
and  sometimes  to  St. Louis  (upward  of  two  hundred  miles),  to  insure  its  proceeding 
on  its  ro\ite,  and  tlicn  one  half  or  t«  o  thirds  of  the  papers  never  reached  the  place  of 
destination,  being  intercepted  or  destroyed  by  our  enemies. 

These  false  reports  stirred  uj)  the  community  around,  of  whom  many,  on  account 
of  religious  prejudice,  were  easily  instigated  to  join  the  "anti-Mormons,"  and  cm- 
bark  in  any  crusade  that  might  bo  undertaken  against  the  "Mormons;"  henco  their 
ranks  swelled  in  numbers,  and  new  organizations  were  formed,  meetings  were  held, 
resolutions  passed,  and  men  and  means  volunteered  for  tho  extirpation  of  tho  "Mor- 
mons." 

These  also  were  tho  active  men  in  blowing  up  the  fury  of  the  people,  in  hopes  that 
a  iMipular  movement  might  he  set  on  foot,  which  would  result  in  the  cxjiulsion  or  ex- 
termination of  the  "Mormon"  voters.  For  this  purpose  ])ublie  meetings  had  been 
called,  inflammatory  speeehes  had  been  made,  exaggerated  reports  had  been  exten- 
iively  circulated,  committees  had  been  a])pointed,  who  rode  night  and  day  to  spread 
•  De.  News,  No,  SP,  Sept.  35,  IssT,  f,  SSO, 


f'j 

14 


m  I 


m 


522 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


the  reports  and  solicit  the  aid  of  neighboring  counties,  and  at  a  public  meeting  at 
Warsaw  resolutions  were  passed  to  expel  or  exterminate  the  "Mormon"  population 
1  his  was  not,  however,  a  movement  which  was  unanimously  concurred  in.  Tlie 
county  contained  a  goodly  number  of  inhabitants  in  favor  of  peace,  or  who  at  least 
»  t'ihV"  °'"^'''  1°.'"'=^  *  ™°*'^«*-  These  were  stigmatized  by  the  name  of 
Jack  Mormons,  and  there  were  not  a  few  of  the  more  furious  exciters  of  the  peonlo 
rxt^rXaty^*'^^'^  intention  to  involve  them  in  the  common  expulsion  or 

A  system  of  excitement  and  agitation  was  artfully  planned  and  executed  with  tact 
It  consisted  in  spreading  reports  and  rumors  of  the  most  fearful  character.  As  ex' 
amples :  On  the  morning  before  my  arrival  at  Carthage  I  was  awakened  at  an  earlv 
Hour  by  the  frightful  report,  which  was  asserted  with  confidence  and  apparent  conster- 
nation, that  the  "  Mormons"  had  already  commenced  the  work  of  burninij  destruc 
tion,  and  murder  and  that  every  man  capable  of  bearing  arms  was  instantlV  wanted 
at  Carthage  for  the  protection  of  the  county.  ' 

Wo  lost  no  time  in  starting;  but  when  we  arrived  at  Carthage  we  could  hear  no 
"°'°  7"f^.'"'"8  tI»«/to'-.v-  A^ain,  during  the  few  days  that  the  militia  were  en- 
camped at  Carthage,  frequent  applications  were  made  to  me  to  send  a  force  here,  and 

1  Jl'n-  if-'  Tv  "■  ^''""'-  f "  ''^°"*,  ^^^  '=°"""">''  *°  P'"'^^'^"'  murders,  robberies  and 
larcenies  which, it  was  said,  were  threatened  by  the  "Mormons."  No  such  forces 
were  sent,  nor  were  any  such  oifenses  committed  at  that  time,  except  the  stealinc  of 
some  provisions,  and  there  was  never  the  least  proof  that  this  was  done  bv  a  "Mor- 
^nil.  ^''f"'  ?,"  ™yJ'",° ""''''.  *°  ""^ncock  County,  I  was  informed  by  some  of  their 
violent  enemies  that  the  larcenies  of  the  "Mormons"  had  become  unusually  numer- 
ous  and  insufferable.  They  admitted  that  but  little  had  been  done  in  this  wayTn 
heir  .mmediftte  vicinity,  but  they  insisted  that  sixteen  horses  had  been  stolen  by  the 

bc^  stolZinTn'J'  "-f  K  "r'  Vr'  ?"'''  "P°"  '"l'"'-^''  '''^'  *«''l  that  no  holies  had 
in  n„n.n  t  r  .^^^^°■'■^°°'^'  ^''}  *'>'''  ''•^"^'="  '•"'•^''^  '^"'l  ''<^en  «tole»  i"  one  night 
rLnl  f  .h  "°^-  ^'',"  '".'^  informant  being  told  of  the  Hancock  story,  again 
changed  the  venue  to  another  distant  settlement  in  the  northern  edge  of  Adaiiis  ♦ 
r;M?r  '".'i'^'V  XT™°  '''^'''  P/oceedings  were  instituted  against  the  members  of  the 
City  Council  of  Nauvoo.  A  writ,  here  subjoined,  was  issued  upon  the  affidavit  of 
the  Laws,  loster,  Iligbees  and  Ivins,  by  Mr.  Morrison,  a  justice  of  the  peace  in  Car- 

o  nil'''*  M  ™?"y  *"""  "^  Hancock,  and  put  into  the  hands  of  one  David  Bettesworth. 
a  constable  of  the  same  place.  ' 

Writ  issued  ujK>n  affidavit  by  Thomas  Morrison,  J.  P.,  State  of  Illinois,  Hancock 

County,  ss. 

"The  people  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  to  all  constables,  sheriffs,  and  coroners  of 
snicl  state,  greeting : 
"  Wiiereas  complaint  hath  been  made  before  mo,  one  of  the  justices  of  the  peace 
m  antl  for  the  County  of  Hancock  aforesaid,  ujion  the  oath  of  Francis  M.  Higbec  of 
said  county,  that  Josepn  Smith,  Samuel  Bennett,  John  Tnvlor,  William  W  Pliel'ns 
Hvfum  Smith  John  P.  Green    Stephen  Perry,  Dimick  B.  Huntington,  Jonathan 
r>unham,  Stephen  Markham,  William  Edwc^rds,  Jonathan  Holm^a,  Jesse  P  Har 
mon,  Joijn  Lytic,  Joseph  W,  Coolidge,  Han-oy  D.  Rcdfield,  Pouer  Uockwell,  and 
Levi  Kiclmrds,  of  said  county,  did,  on  the  10th  day  of  June  instant,  commit  a  riot  at 
and  within  the  county  aforesaid,  wherein  they  with  force  and  violence  broke  into  the 
printing-office  of  the  'Nauvoo  Lxpositor,'  and  unlawfully  and  with  force  burned  and 
dnstroycd  tlio  printi.ig-press,  type,  and  fixtures  of  the  same,  being  the  proi.erty  of 
Wilimrn  Law,  Wilson  Law,  Charles  Ivins,  Francis  M.  Higbee,  Chauncey  L.  Uigbee 
Robert  I).  Foster,  and  Charles  A.  Foster.  ^      "igoee, 

''Those  are  therefore  to  command  you  forthwith  to  apprehend  the  said  Joseph 
bmith,  Samuel  Behnett,  John  Taylor,  William  W.  Phelps,  Hvnim  Smith,  John  P. 
I;'"'''"V,r-,r'  '"^1,  ?  "'■'"T'  ^^""''=''  "•  ""ntingtcm,  Jonathan  Dunham,  Stephen  Mark- 
ham,  William  Ldwards,  Jonathan  Holmes,  Jesse  P.  Harmon,  John  Lvtlo,  Joseph  W. 
Coolidge,  Harvey  D.  ItedOeld,  Porter  Kockwell,  and  Levi  Uicliards,  and  brine  them 
before  me,  or  some  other  justice  of  the  peace,  to  answer  the  promises,  and  farther  to 
bo  dealt  with  according  to  law. 

"Given  under  my  hand  and  seal  at  Carthage,  in  the  county  aforesaid,  this  1 1th  day 
of  June,  A.D.  1844.  Thomas  Mokuison,  J.  J»."    (Seal.)t 

•  Ford's  IlUtory  of  IllinoU,  p.  800, 331.  t  Dm.  Now.,  No.  80,  Sept.  .10, 1857,  p.  238. 


Idl 


APPENDIX  in. 


523 


,  m 


i«^f  tT''*^"  "^^Ti  T  ^"."^"^"^  ^°  the  legal  proceedings  in  the  case,  but,  as  the 
law  of  Illinois  made  it  the  privilege  of  the  persons  accused  to  go  "or  appear  before 
the  issuer  of  the  writ,  or  any  other  justice  of  peace,"  they  requested  to  bTtaken  be- 
fore another  magistrate,  either  m  the  city  of  Nauvoo  or  at  any  reasonable  distance 

Oui  01  It. 

This  the  constable,  who  was  a  mobocrat,  refused  to  do ;  and  as  this  was  onr  lecal 
privilege,  we  refused  to  be  dragged,  contrary  to  law,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles  when 
at  the  same  time  we  had  reason  to  believe  that  an  organized  band  of  mobocratL  were 
assembled  for  the  purpose  of  extermination  or  murder,  and  among  whom  it  would 
not  be  safe  to  go  without  a  superior  force  of  armed  men.  A  writ  of  habeas  corpus 
was  called  for,  and  issued  by  the  municipal  court  of  Nauvoo,  taking  us  out  of  the 
hands  of  Bettesworth,  and  placing  us  in  the  charge  of  the  city  marshal.  We  went 
betore  the  municipal  court,  and  were  dismissed.  Our  refusal  to  obey  this  illecal  pro- 
ceeding wa^  by  them  construed  into  a  refusal  to  submit  to  law,  and  circulated  as 
such,  and  the  people  either  did  believe,  or  professed  to  believe,  that  we  were  in  open 
rebel  ion  against  the  laws  and  the  authorities  of  the  state.  Hence  mobs  began  to  as- 
semble, among  which  all  through  the  country  inflammatory  speeches  were  made,  ex- 
citing them  to  mobocracy  and  violence.  Soon  they  commenced  their  prosecutions 
othera  °        '^  settlements,  kidnapping  some,  and  whipping  and  otherwise  abusing 

_  Tlie  persons  thus  abused  fled  to  Nauvoo  as  soon  as  practicable,  and  related  their 
injuries  to  Joseph  Smith,  then  mayor  of  the  city,  and  lieutenant  general  of  the  Nau- 
voo Legion  ;  they  also  went  before  magistrates,  and  made  affidavits  of  what  they  had 
suftered,  seen,  and  heard.  These  affidavits,  in  connection  with  a  copy  of  all  our  pro- 
ceedings, were  forwarded  by  Joseph  Smith  to  Mr.  Ford,  then  Gove/nor  of  Illinois, 
with  an  expression  of  our  desire  to  abide  law,  and  a  request  that  the  governor  would 
instruct  hira  how  to  proceed  in  the  ease  of  »•;  3  arrival  of  an  aimed  mob  against  the 
city.  The  governor  sent  back  instructions  to  Joseph  Smith  that,  as  he  was  lieu- 
tenant general  of  the  Nauvoo  Legion.it  was  his  duty  to  protect  the  city  and  surround- 
ing country,  and  issued  orders  to  that  effect.  Upon  the  reception  of  these  orders  Jo- 
seph Smith  assembled  the  people  of  the  city,  and  laid  before  them  the  governor's  in- 
structions ;  ho  also  convened  the  officers  of  the  Nauvoo  Legion  for  the  purpose  of 
conferring  in  relation  to  the  best  mode  of  defense.  He  also  issued  orders  to  the  men 
to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  in  case  of  being  called  upon.  On  the  following  day 
General  Joseph  Smith,  with  his  staff,  the  leading  officers  of  the  Legion,  and  some 
prominent  strangers  who  were  in  our  midst,  made  a  survey  of  the  outside  boundaries 
ot  the  city,  which  was  very  extensive,  being  about  iive  miles  up  and  down  the  river, 
and  about  two  and  a  half  back  in  the  centre,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  po- 
sition  of  the  ground,  and  the  feasibility  of  defense,  and  to  make  all  necessary  arrange- 
ments in  case  of  an  attack. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  remark  that  numbers  of  gentlemen,  who  were  to  us  stran- 
gers, either  came  on  purpose  or  were  i)assing  through  Nauvoo,  who,  upon  learning 
the  position  of  things,  expressed  their  indignation  against  our  enemies,  and  avowed 
their  readiness  to  assist  us  by  their  council  or  otherwise ;  it  was  some  of  these  who 
assisted  us  m  reconnoitering  the  city,  and  finding  out  its  adaptability  for  defense, 
and  the  best  mode  of  protection  against  an  armed  force.  The  Legion  was  called  to- 
gether and  drilled,  and  every  means  made  use  of  for  defense ;  at  the  call  of  the  offi- 
cers both  old  and  young  men  came  forward,  both  denizens  from  the  city  and  from 
the  oiitsido  regions,  and  I  believe  at  one  time  they  mustered  to  the  number  of  about 
five  thousand. 

In  the  mean  time  our  enemies  were  not  idle  in  mustering  their  forces  and  com- 
mitting depredations,  nor  had  they  been ;  it  was,  in  fact,  their  gathering  that  called 
ours  intc '  existence ;  their  forces  continued  to  accumulate ;  they  assumed  a  threatening 
attitude',  and  assembled  in  large  bodies,  armed  and  equipped  for  war,  and  tlireatened 
the  destruction  and  extermination  of  the  "Mormons."  An  account  of  their  out- 
rages and  assemblages  was  forwarded  to  Governor  Ford  almost  dailv,  accompanied 
by  affidavits  furnished  by  eyewitnesses  of  their  proceedings.  Persons  were  also  sent 
out  to  the  counties  around  with  pacific  intentions,  to  give  them  an  account  of  the 
true  state  of  alluirs,  and  to  notify  them  of  the  feelings  and  dispositions  of  the  people 
of  Nauvoo,  and  thus,  if  possible,  quell  the  excitement.  In  some  of  the  more  distant 
counties  those  men  were  very  successful,  and  produced  a  salutary  influence  upon  the 
minds  of  many  intelligent  and  well-disposed  men.  In  neighboring  counties,  how- 
ever, where  "  nnti-Mormon"  influoncn  prnvnilml.  tlinv  nrnilni^nd  \UtU  -,«•„«»        At  ♦>,., 


\hi 


>  I 


Itl 


i 


524 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


same  time,  guards  were  stationed  around  Nauvoo,  and  picket-guards  in  the  distance 
At  length  opposing  forces  gathered  so  near  that  more  active  measures  were  taken" 
reconnoitering  parties  were  sent  out,  and  the  city  proclaimed  under  martial  law' 
ihmgs  now  assumed  a  belligerent  attitude,  and  persons  passing  through  the  citv 
nvere  questioned  as  to  what  tliey  knew  of  the  enemy,  while  passes  were  in  some  in- 
stances given  to  avoid  difficulty  with  the  guards.  Joseph  Smith  continued  to  send 
on  messengers  to  tlie  governor  (Philip  B.  Lewis  and  other  messengers  were  sent) 
feamuelJam"«.  iiuu  r.,-..  'Jng  at  LaHarpc,  carried  a  message  and  dispatches  to  him 
and  in  a  day  ;.r  tv-;:,  nfnh-  Bishop  Edward  Hunter  and  others  went  again  with  fresh 
aispatciic^.  ri^pn'oet".  .ioiis,  affidavits,  and  instructions;  but  as  the  weather  was  ex- 
cessively -ACt,  iho  uvois  ^swollen,  and  the  bridges  washed  away  in  many  places  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  they  proceeded  on  their  journeys.  As  the  mobocra'cy  had 
at  last  attracted  the  governor's  attention,  ho  started  in  company  with  some  others 
trom  bpringfield  to  the  scene  of  trouble,  and  missed,  I  believe,  both  Brothers  James 
and  Hunter  on  the  road,  and  of  course  did  not  see  their  documents.  He  came  to 
Carthage,  and  made  that  place,  which  was  a  regular  mobocratic  den,  In's  head- 
quarters;  as  it  was  the  county-seat,  Iiowevrr.  of  Hancock  County,  that  circumstance 
might,  m  a  measure,  justify  hh  -iv,;.  Uw,  t.,Cic. 

To  avoid  the  appearance  oi'  ail  hostility  on  our  part,  and  to  fulfill  the  law  in  every 
particular,  at  the  suggestion  of  Judge  Thomas,  judge  of  that  judicial  district,  who 
Jiaa  como  to  Nauvoo  at  the  time,  and  who  stated  that  we  had  fulfilled  the  law  but 
in  order  to  satisfy  all,  ho  would  counsel  us  to  go  before  Esquire  Wells,  *  who  was  not 
in  our  Church  and  have  a  hearing.  We  did  so,  and  after  a  full  hearing  we  were 
again  dismissed. 

The  governor  on  the  road  collected  forces,  some  of  whom  were  respectable  •  but  on 
his  arrival  m  the  neighborhood  of  the  difficulties  he  received  as  militia  all  the  compa- 
nies of  the  mob  forces  who  united  with  him.     After  his  arrival  at  Carthace  he  sent 
two  gentlemen  from  there  to  Nauvoo  as  a  committee  to  wail  tipon  General  Joseph 
Smi  I,  informing  him  of  the  arrival  of  his  excellency,  with  a  request  that  General 
&rau  1  would  send  out  a  committee  to  wait  upon  the  governor  and  represent  to  him 
the  state  of  aftmrs  m  relation  to  the  difficulties  that  then  c.\;  ted  in  the  county     We 
niet  this  committee  while  we  were  reconnoitering  the  citv,  to  find  out  the  best  modo 
of  detense  as  aforesaid.    Dr.  J.  M.  Bernhisel  and  myself  were  appointed  as  a  com- 
mittee bv  Genera   Smith  to  wait  upon  the  governor.     I'rovious  to  going,  however 
we  were  furnished  with  affidavits  and  documents  in  relation  both  to  our  proceedings 
and  those  of  the  mob;  in  addition  to  the  general  history  of  the  transaction,  we  took 
with  us  a  duplicate  of  those  documents  which  had  been  forwarded  by  Bishop  Hunter 
Brother  James,  and  others.    Wo  started  from  Carthage  in  company  with  the  afore- 
said gentleman  at  about  7  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  21st  of  June,  and  arrived  at 
Carthage  at  about  1 1  T.M.     We  put  up  at  the  same  hotel  with  the  governor,  kept  bv 
a  Mr.  Hamilton ;  on  our  arrival  we  found  the  governor  in  bed,  but  not  so  with  the 
other  inhabitants.     The  town  was  filled  witii  a  perfect  set  of  rabble  and  rowdies,  who 
under  the  influence  of  Bacchus,  seemed  to  bo  holding  a  grand  saturnalia,  whoopinc' 
yelling,  and  vociferating  as  if  Bedlam  had  broken  loose.  "ooping, 

On  our  arrival  at  the  hotel,  and  while  supper  was  preparing,  a  man  came  to  me 
dressed  as  a  soldier,  and  told  me  that  a  man  named  David  Cam  had  just  teen  taken 
prisoner,  and  was  about  to  be  committed  to  jail,  and  wanted  me  to  go  bail  for  him 
Believing  tin,,  to  lie  a  nise  to  get  mo  out  alone,  and  that  some  violence  was  intended 

mI  rnrr't'  "?^r  r"'*  ?••  ^'""^''"^^  ^  "?'*^  '^'  "'•'"  «'"*'  I  '"^  ««"  acquainted  wkh 
Mr.  Cain,  that  I  knew  him  to  be  a  gentleman,  and  did  not  believe  that  he  had  trans- 
grossed  law,  arid,  moreover,  that  I  considered  it  a  very  singular  time  to  be  holding 
courts  and  calling  fji  security,  particularly  as  the  tow,,  was  full  of  rowdyism 

I  informed  him  that  both  Dr.  Bernhisel  and  myseif  would,  if  necessary,  go  bail  for 
him  in  the  morning  but  that  we  did  not  feel  ourselves  safe  among  such  a  set  at  that 
late  hour  of  the  night. 

After  8iii)i)er,  on  retiring  to  our  roon-,  we  had  to  pass  through  another,  which  was 
separated  from  ours  only  by  a  board  partition,  the  beds  in  each  room  being  placed 
Bide  by  side,  with  the  exception  of  this  fragile  partition.  On  the  bed  that  was  in  the 
room  which  wc  passed  through  1  discovered  a  man  by  the  name  of  Jackson  a  des- 
perate character,  and  a  reputed,  notorious  cut-throat  and  murderer.  I  hinted  to  the 
doctor  that  things  looked  rather  suspicious,  and  looked  to  see  that  my  arms  were  in 
order.  The  doctor  and  1  both  occupied  one  bed.  We  had  scarcely  laid  down  when 
•  Now  a  membtir  of  the  First  Preaidency Ed. 


APPENDIX  m. 


525 


a  knock  nt  the  door,  accompanied  by  a  voice,  announced  the  approach  of  Channcev 
Higbee,  the  young  la^vyer  and  apostate  before  referred  to.       "W"^""'^"  *"  cnanncey 

He  addressed  himself  to  the  doctor,  and  stated  that  th'o  /^^.i„„^  „*  i  •     •  •, 
obtain  the  release  of  Daniel  Cam;  th^t  CarnlStt  ed  ot'^ntn^S^^^^^^ 
if  he  had  done  any  thmg  wrong,  it  was  through  improper  counsel  and  twl^  wl=  „ 
pity  that  he  should  te  incarcerated,  particularly  when  h'Tcouldte  so  easfy  released 
he  urged  the  doctor,  as  a  friend,  not  to  leave  so  good  a  man  irKn^i?  „i^  released, 
situation;  he  finally'prevailcd  upon  the  doctor  to  fo  and  S'e  bdralrinr^m  thi: 
on  his  giving  bail  Cam  would  be  immediately  dismissed  '  ^  ^'™  ^^'"* 

Dunng  this  conversation  I  did  not  say  a  word.     Higbee  left  the  doctor  to  dres<, 
wuh  the  intention  of  returning  and  taking  him  to  tho  court.    As  soon  as  Higbee  had 

S;  tn  ^*'''  '^°'""'  *^^*  ^'?  ^"'^  ^''^''  "°'  SO  ;  that  I  believed  this  affa  r  fas  all  a 
ruse  to  ge  us  separated;  that  they  knew  we  had  documents  with  us  from  General 
Smith  to  show  to  the  governor;  that  I  believed  their  object  was  to  get  possession  of 
tho  e  papers,  and,  perhaps,  when  they  had  separated  us,  to  murder  one  o?  both      The 

iTSliV:ZnT'-i^''^''-^''''  '\'^'f''''  '"  yielding  to  the  assumed  solicitile 
of  Higboe,  coincided  with  my  views;  he  then  went  to  Higbee,  and  told  him  that  he 
iwirnnH  A^  p'  ^o.go  that  night,  but  that  he  and  I  would  both  wait  upon  the 
justice  and  Mr.  Cam  in  the  morning.  ^ 

»J'""  M^'it^  ''"'  *'''"^''  ''''*''  "y  P'^^'^l^  ""d*""  °iy  P'"o^^.  waiting  for  anv  emer- 
gency    Nothing  more  occurred  during  the  night.     In  the  ^oming  we  arose  e^rly 

couldl  av.  r'*"r  '°"^T*  ^^•"*'^'^'«^^  with  the  governor,  and  wte  told  that  ?o 
could  h  ye  an  audience,  I  think,  at  10  o'clock.  In  tho  mean  time  we  called  upon 
Mr  Smith,  a  Justice  of  the  Pc.ice,  who  had  Mr.  Cam  in  charge.     We  represented 

a  Mr^'mnfpl  r  "^  '""f  "P°"  "'°  "'Sl>t  before  by  two  difibrentVrticMoTo  baU  for 
a  Mr^  Daniel  Cam,  whom  we  were  informed  he  had  in  custody,  and  that,  believing 

^„.;?  .     '^^  •""  '"""'''  ?*''"'  '^°  ^""^  '^°'"°  n°w  for  that  purpose,  and  w^re  pre^ 
pared  to  enter  into  recognizances  for  his  appearance,  whereupon  Mr   Smhj/the 
magistrate,  remarked  "that,  under  the  present  excited  state  of\ffidrs  he   lid  not 
think  he  would  be  justified  in  receiving  bail  from  Nauvoo,  as  it  was  a  ma  ter  of  doub 
whether  property  would  not  be  rendered  valueless  there  in  a  few  davr 

Knowing  the  party  we  had  to  deal  with,  we  were  not  much  surprised  at  this  sin- 
gular proceeding ;  wo  then  remarked  that  both  of  us  possessed  property  in  farms  out 
of  Nauvoo  1.1  the  country,  and  referred  him  to  the  county  reeolds.^  He  then^tated 
that  such  was  the  nature  of  the  charge  .ngainst  Mr.  Cam  that  he  believed  he  would 
th.  JJT^"'^  m  receivmg  any  bail.  We  were  thus  confirmed  in  our  opinion  that 
the  nights  proceedmgs  before,  in  relation  to  their  desire  to  have  us  give  bail,  was  a 
niere  ruse  to  separate  us.     We  were  not  ixirmitted  to  speak  with  Cam,  the  real 

wh'!.'??h»*^«'I'-!-  ''•"""  '""'  ^^^V'?  '''^  '™™""8  i"  Carthage  or  its  neighborhood: 
what  the  fictitious  one  was,  it  I  then  knew,  I  have  since  forgotten,  as  things  of  this 
Kintl  were  of  daily  occurrence. 

After  waiting  the  governor's  pleasure  for  some  time  we  had  an  audience;  but  such 
an  audience !  He  was  surrounded  by  some  of  the  vilest  and  most  unprincipled  men 
m  creation;  some  of  them  had  an  apiiearanco  of  respectability,  and  many  of  them 
lacked  even  that.  Wilson,  and,  I  believe,  William  Law,  were  there,  Foster,  Frank 
and  Chaiincey  Higbee,  Mr.  Mar,  a  laNvyer  from  Nauvoo,  a  mobocratic  merchant  from 
Warsaw,  the  aforesaid  Jackson,  a  number  of  his  associates,  among  whom  was  the 
governor  s  secretary,  in  all  some  fifteen  or  twenty  persons,  most  of  whom  were  recre- 
ant to  virtue,  honor,  integrity,  and  every  thing  that  is  considered  honorable  among 
men.  I  can  well  remember  the  feelings  of  disgust  that  I  had  in  seeing  the  governor 
surrounded  by  such  an  infamous  group,  and  on  being  introduced  to  men  of  so  ques- 
tionable a  character ;  and  had  I  been  on  private  business,  I  should  have  turned  to 
Uepart,  and  told  tho  governor  that  if  he  thought  proper  to  associate  with  such  ques- 
tionable characters,  I  should  beg  leave  to  be  excused ;  but  coming  as  we  did  on  pub- 
lic business,  we  could  not,  of  course,  consult  our  private  feelings. 

We  then  stated  to  the  governor  that,  in  accordance  with  his  request.  General  Smith 
liad,  in  response  to  his  call,  sent  us  to  him  as  a  committee  of  conference;  that  wo 
were  acquainted  with  most  of  the  circumstances  that  had  transpired  in  and  about 
Wauyoo  lately,  and  were  prepared  to  give  him  all  information ;  that,  moreover,  wo 
t-  '"  ""I"  .possession  testimony  and  affidavits  confirmatory  of  what  we  .'^hould  say, 
which  had  been  forwarded  to  him  by  General  Josejih  Smith;  that  communications 
»v  i-een  .f'""«''*''ded  to  his  excellency  by  Mr.  Hunter,  James,  and  others,  some  of 
Which  had  not  reached  their  destination,  but  of  which  wo  hud  duplicates  with  us. 


r 


if 

i  f*l  (I 

■  *■  «l 


it: , 


m 


526 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


We  then,  in  brief,  related  an  outline  of  the  difficulties,  and  the  course  we  had  pur- 
sued from  the  commencement  of  the  troubles  up  to  the  present,  and  handing  him  the 
documents,  respectfully  submitted  the  whole.  During  our  conversation  and  explana- 
tions with  the  governor  we  were  frequently  rudely  and  impudently  contradicted  by 
the  fellows  he  had  around  him,  and  of  whom  ho  seemed  to  take  no  notice. 

Ho  opened  and  read  a  number  of  the  documents  himself,  and  as  ho  proceeded  ho 
was  frequently  interrupted  by  "that's  a  lie,"  "that's  a  God  damned  lie,"  "tliat's  an 
infernal  fulsehood,"  "that's  a  blasted  lie,"  etc. 

These  men  evidently  winced  at  an  exposure  of  their  acts,  and  thus  vulgarly,  im- 
pudently, and  falsely  repudiated  them.  One  of  their  number,  Mr.  Mar,  addressed 
himself  several  times  to  me  while  in  conversation  with  the  governor.  I  did  not  no- 
tice him  until  after  a  frequent  repetition  of  his  insolence,  when  I  informed  him  "that 
my  business  at  that  time  was  with  Governor  Ford,"  whereupon  I  continued  my  con- 
versation with  his  excellency.  During  the  conversation  the  governor  expressed  a 
desire  that  Joseph  Smith,  and  all  parties  concerned  in  passing  or  executing  the  city 
law  in  relation  to  the  press,  had  better  come  to  Carthage ;  that,  however  repugnant 
it  might  be  to  our  feelings,  ho  thought  it  would  have  a  tendency  to  allay  public  ex- 
citement, and  prove  to  the  people  what  wo  professed,  that  we  wished  to  be  governed 
by  law.  Wc  represented  to  him  tho  qourso  he  had  taken  in  relation  to  this  matter,  and 
our  willingness  to  go  before  another  magistrate  other  than  the  Municipal  Court ;  the 
illegal  refusal  of  our  request  by  the  constable ;  our  dismissal  by  the  Municipal  Court, 
a  legally  constituted  tribunal ;  our  subsequent  trial  before  Squire  Wells  at  the  in-» 
stance  of  Judge  Thomas  (the  circuit  judge),  and  our  dismissal  by  him;  that  we  had 
fulfilled  the  law  in  every  particular;  that  it  was  our  enemies  who  were  breaking  tho 
law,  and,  having  murderous  designs,  wero  only  making  use  of  this  as  a  pretext  to 
get  us  into  their  power.  The  governor  stated  that  tho  jieoplo  viewed  it  differently, 
and  tliat,  notwithstanding  our  opinions,  ho  would  recommend  that  tho  people  shoukl 
be  satisfied.  We  then  remarked  to  him  that,  should  Joseph  Smith  comply  with  his 
request,  it  would  bo  extremely  unsafe,  in  the  present  excited  state  of  the  country,  to 
come  without  an  armed  force ;  that  we  had  a  sufficiency  of  men,  and  were  competent 
to  defend  ourselves,  but  that  there  might  be  danger  of  collision  should  our  forces  and 
that  of  our  enemies  bo  brouglit  into  such  close  proximity.  Ho  strenuously  advised  us 
not  to  bring  any  arms,  and  pledged  his  faith  as  governor,  and  the  faith  of  the  state,  that 
we  should  be  protected,  and  that  he  would  guarantee  our  perfect  safety. 

We  had  at  that  time  about  five  thousand  men  under  arms,  one  thousand  of  which 
would  have  been  amply  sufficient  for  our  i)rotection. 

At  tlio  termination  of  our  interview,  and  previous  to  our  withdrawal,  after  a  long 
conversation  and  the  perusal  of  the  documents  which  wo  had  brought,  the  governor 
informed  us  that  he  would  prepare  a  written  communication  for  General  Joseph 
Smith,  which  he  desired  us  to  wait  for.  We  wero  kept  waiting  for  this  instrument 
some  five  or  six  hours. 

About  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  wo  took  our  departure  with  not  the  most  pleasant 
feelings.  The  associations  of  the  governor,  the  spirit  that  he  manifested  to  compro- 
mise with  tliese  scoundrels,  the  length  of  time  that  ho  had  kept  us  waiting,  and  his 
general  deportment,  together  with  tho  infernal  spirit  that  we  saw  exhibited  by  those 
whom  ho  had  admitted  to  his  councils,  made  the  prospect  any  thing  but  promis- 
ing. 

We  returned  on  horseback,  and  arrived  at  Nauvoo,  I  think,  at  about  8  or  9  o'clock 
at  night,  accompanied  by  Captain  Yates  in  command  of  a  company  of  moimted  men, 
wlio  came  for  tho  purpose  of  escorting  Joseph  Smith  and  the  accused  in  case  of  their 
complying  with  tlie  governor's  request,  and  going  to  Carthage.  We  went  directly 
to  Brotlier  Joseph's,  when  Captain  Yates  delivered  to  him  the  governor's  communi- 
cation. A  council  was  called  consisting  of  Jo8C))h'8  brother  Hynim,  Dr.  itichards, 
Dr.  Bernhisel,  myself,  and  one  or  two  others,  when  the  following  letter  was  read  from 
the  governor  : 

Governor  Ford's  Letter  to  the  Mayor  and  Common  Council  of  Nauvoo. 

"  HpBd  Quarters,  r!ftrllmgc,  Juno  21st,  ''.<544. 

"To  the  Hon.  the  Mayor  and  Common  Council  of  the  City  of  Nauvoo: 

"Gentlemen, — Having  heard  of  the  excitement  in  this  part  of  the  countiy,  and 

judging  tliat  my  presence  here  might  bo  necessary  to  preserve  tho  peace  and  enforce 

the  laws,  I  arrived  at  tliis  ]ilace  this  morning.     Both  before  and  (•inco  my  arrival, 

complaints  of  u  grave  character  have  been  mado  to  me  of  certain  proceedings  of  your 


APPENDIX  III. 


527 


honorable  body.    As  chief  magistrate,  it  is  my  duty  to  see  that  impartial  iustice  shall 
be  done,  uninfluenced  by  the  excitement  here  or  in  your  city     ™'^""*' J""'°^  *"*" 

.iil\''"°'''  ''fT/"^  '^"V^T  '"^"""'■^  «''«"  ^^  adopted,  that  I  oucht  to  hear' the 
allegations  and  defenses  of  a    parties.     By  adootini?  thu  r«„«>«  t  »  i 

that  the  eyils  of  war  may  be  aye'rtcd;  and  itt^tV    wi»  ren^Ted^y  ^^^^^^^ 

"For  these  reasons,  I  have  to  request  that  you  will  send  out  to  me  at  this  nlaon 
one  or  more  well-informed  and  discreet  jxin^ons,  who  will  be  capabb  ofSS  £?ore 

ruSLTrbei^i^STc'  "^--^"«^-™  -  -^  eU:;;r"n«^ 

frnm^^h"""'  ^''""  ^- 1""''^'^^}  ^'"  P''°«<'"t  yo«  this  note  in  the  character  of  a  herald 

retuSr;oTKe?;r  ''"""'  "'^'■"'"''"'^  '"  P^'^""  ""'^  property,  and  will  bo 
''I  am,  gentlemen,  with  high  considerations,  most  respectfully  your  obedient  serv- 
'  -IHOMAS  loKD,  Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief."* 

We  then  gave  n  detail  of  our  interview  with  the  governor.  Brother  Joscnh  was 
very  much  dissatisfied  with  the  govei-nor's  letter  and  with  his  Sral  depoment 
and  so  were  the  council,  and  it  became  a  serious  question  as  to  the  coursrw^Sd 
pursue.  Various  projects  were  discussed,  but  nothing  definitely  dScdxmon  for 
some  tune.  In  the  nterim  two  gentlemen  arrived ;  one  of  th™,^if  no  iSh  sons  of 
John  C.  Calhoun.  Thev  had  come  to  Nauvoo,  and  were  very  anxious  for  an  nter 
view  with  Brother  Joseph.     These  gentlemen  detained  him  for    ome  time    and  L" 

zrandir^'wL^rbeSrii^dT^^^^^^^ 
srsrsriir;^^---'---^^^ 

Being  very  much  fatigued,  I  slept  soundly,  and  was  somewhat  surprised  in  the 
morning  by  Mrs.  Thompson  entering  my  room  about  7  o'clock,  and  exckimnc  in 

T^^^.'  V"'''l?V'''?K  '•'•'  ^'■''""•''"  '"^^°  'grossed  the  river  some  time  sneo" 
"What  brethren?"  I  asked.  "Brother  Joseph,  and  Hyrum,  and  BroUier  Itich- 
ards."  I  immediately  arose  upon  learning  that  they  had  crossed  the  r  ver  and  did 
not  intend  to  go  to  Carthage.  I  called  together  a  number  of  persons  in  whom  I  had 
confidence,  and  had  the  type,  stereotype  plates,  and  most  of  the  valuable  tlihigs  re- 
moved from  lie  prmting-olhce,  believing  that,  should  the  govcmor  and  his  force  como 
0  Nauvoo,  ho  hist  thing  they  would  do  would  be  to  burn  the  printing-office  fo™! 
knew  that  they  would  be  exasperated  if  Brother  Joseph  went  away.  We  had  alkcd 
over  these  matters  the  night  before,  but  nothing  was  decided  upon.  It  was  Brother 
Joseplis  opinion  that,  should  we  leave  for  a  time,  public  excitement,  which  was  then 
so  intense,  would  be  allayed ;  that  it  would  throw  on  the  governor  Uie  responsibility 
of  keeping  the  peace ;  that,  in  the  event  of  any  outrage,  the  onus  would  rest  upon  tho 
governor,  who  was  amply  prepared  with  troops,  and  could  command  all  the  forces  of 
the  state  to  preserve  order ;  and  that  the  acts  of  his  own  men  would  be  un  overwhelm- 
mg  proof  of  their  seditious  designs,  not  only  to  the  governor,  but  to  the  world.  IIo 
moreover  thought  that,  in  the  East,  where  he  intended  to  go,  |mblie  opinion  would 
be  set  right  in  relation  to  these  matters,  and  its  expression  would  partially  influence 
the  West,  and  that,  after  the  first  ebullition,  things  would  assume  a  shape  that  would 
justify  his  return.  I  made  arrangements  for  crossing  the  river,  and  Brother  Elias 
hmith  and  Joseph  Cain,  who  were  both  employed  in  the  printing-office  with  me,  as- 
sisted  all  that  lay  in  their  power,  together  with  Brother  Browor  and  several  liands  in 
the  printing-ofhce.  As  we  could  not  find  out  the  exact  whereabouts  of  Joseph  and 
the  brethren  I  crossed  the  river  in  a  boat  furnished  by  Brothers  Cyrus  H.  Wheelock 
and  Alfred  Bell ;  and  after  the  removal  of  tho  things  of  the  printing-office,  Joseph 
Lain  brought  the  m-coimt-books  to  mc,  that  we  might  make  arrangements  for  their 
adjustment;  and  Brother  Elios  Smith,  cousin  to  Brother  Joseph,  went  to  obtain 
money  for  the  journey  ami  also  to  find  out  and  report  to  me  the  location  of  tho 
broihren.  As  Cyrus  11.  A\  heelock  was  an  active,  enterprising  man,  and  in  the  event 
of  no  finding  Brother  Joseph  I  calculated  to  go  to  Upper  Canada  for  the  time  being, 
and  should  need  a  companion,  I  said  to  Brother  Wheelock,  "Can  you  go  with  me  ten 
•  De»,  News,  No.  S3,  Oct.  31,  ISD",  p.  £57, 


u 


528 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


or  fifteen  hundred  miles?"  Ileanswered  "Yes."  "Can  you  start  in  half  an  hour?" 
"Yes."  However,  I  told  him  that  he  had  better  see  his  family,  who  lived  over  the 
river,  and  prepare  a  coui)le  of  horses  and  the  necessary  equipage  for  the  journey,  and 
that,  if  we  did  not  find  Brother  Joseph  before,  we  would  start  at  nightfall.  A  laugh- 
able incident  occurred  on  the  eve  of  my  dejiarture.  After  making  all  the  prepara- 
tions I  could  previous  to  leaving  Nauvoo,  and  having  bid  adieu  to  my  family,  I  went 
to  a  house  adjoining  the  river  owned  by  Brother  Eddy.  There  I  disguised  myself  so 
as  not  to  be  known,  and  so  effectually  was  the  transformation  that  those  wlio  had 
come  after  me  with  a  boat  did  not  know  me.  I  went  down  to  the  boat  and  sat  in  it. 
Brother  Bell,  thinking  it  was  a  stranger,  watched  my  moves  for  some  time  very  im- 
patiently, and  then  said  to  Brother  Wheelock,  "  I  wish  that  old  gentleman  would  go 
away ;  ho  has  been  pottering  around  the  boat  for  some  time,  and  I  am  afraid  Elder 
Taylor  will  be  coming."  Wlien  he  discovered  his  mistake,  he  was  not  a  little  amused. 
I  was  conducted  by  Brother  Bell  to  a  house  that  was  surrounded  by  timber  on  tho 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  There  I  spent  several  hours  in  a  chamber  with  Brother 
Joseph  Cain,  adjusting  my  accounts;  and  I  made  arrangements  for  tho  stereotype 
plates  of  the  "Book  of  Mormon,"  and  "Doctrine  and  Covenants,"  to  bo  forwarded 
East,  thinking  to  supply  the  company  with  subsistence  money  through  the  sale  of 
these  books  in  the  East. 

My  horses  were  reported  ready  by  Brother  Wheelock,  and  funds  on  hand  by  Brother 
Elias  Smith.  In  about  half  an  hour  I  should  have  started,  when  Brother  Elias  Smith 
came  to  mo  witii  word  that  ho  had  found  the  brethren ;  that  tlicy  had  concluded  to 
go  to  Carthage,  and  wisiied  me  to  return  to  Nauvoo  and  accompany  them.  I  must 
confess  that  1  felt  a  good  deal  disappointed  at  this  news,  but  I  immediately  mado 
preparations  to  go.  Escorted  by  Brother  Elias  Smith,  I  and  my  i)arty  went  to  tho 
neighborhood  of  Montrose,  whore  we  met  Brother  Josejili,  Ilyrum,  Brother  Kichards, 
and  others.  Dr.  Bornliiscl  thinks  that  W.  W.  Phelps  was  not  with  Joscjjh  and  Ily- 
rum in  the  moniing,  but  that  he  met  him,  myself,  Joseph,  and  Ilyrum,  W.  Kichards, 
and  Brother  Calhoun,  in  the  afternoon,  near  Montrose,  returning  to  Nauvoo.  On 
meeting  the  brethren  I  learned  tluit  it  was  not  Brother  Joseph's  desire  to  return,  but 
that  he  came  back  by  re(iucst  of  some  of  the  brethren,  and  that  it  coincided  more  with 
Brother  Ilyrum's  feelings  than  with  those  of  Brother  Joseph.  In  fact,  after  his  re- 
turn. Brother  Ilyrum  expressed  himself  as  perfectly  satisfied  witli  tlie  course  taken, 
and  said  that  he  felt  much  more  at  ease  iu  liis  mind  tlum  ho  did  before.  On  our  re- 
turn tho  calculation  was  to  throw  ourselves  under  tlic  immediate  protection  of  tho 
governor,  and  to  trust  to  his  word  and  faith  for  our  jjirscrvation. 

A  message  was,  I  believe,  sent  to  tho  governor  that  night,  stating  that  wo  should 
come  to  Carthago  in  the  mornirg,  the  party  that  came  along  with  us  to  escort  us  back. 
in  case  wo  returned  to  (Carthage,  liaving  i-eturned.  It  would  seem  from  the  follov,- 
ing  remarks  of  CJ(meral  Ford  that  there  was  a  design  on  foot,  which  was,  that  if  wo 
refused  to  go  to  Carthago  at  tho  governor's  re(picst,  there  should  be  an  i:K'reased  forco 
called  for  by  tho  governor,  aiul  that  we  should  be  destroyed  by  them.  In  acoordanco 
with  this  project.  Captain  Yates  returned  with  his  /lossr,  accompanied  by  the  constablo 
who  held  tho  writ.  The  following  is  the  governor's  remark  in  relation  to  this  afiair; 
"Tho  constal)le  and  his  escort  returned.  The  constable  mado  no  cff'ort  to  arrest 
nny  of  ihem,  nor  would  I'o  or  tho  guard  delay  their  ileparturo  one  minute  beyond  tho 
time,  to  see  whether  an  arrest  could  bo  niude.  Uiwn  their  return  they  reiunted  that 
they  luid  been  informed  that  tho  accused  had  lied,  and  coidd  not  be  found.  I  immr- 
diately  jiroposcd  to  a  couiu'il  of  oilicers  to  march  into  Nauvoo  with  tho  fmall  forco 
then  under  my  command,  but  the  otticers  vere  of  opiuior  that  it  was  too  small,  aiul 
many  of  them  insisted  upon  ii  f.irthor  call  of  the  milltui.  Upon  rellection  I  was  of 
opInii)ii  that  the  ofllcors  were  right  in  tho  estiiiiafo  of  our  force,  anil  the  jiroject  for 
immedialo  action  was  abanilone<i.  I  was  soon  informed,  however,  of  the  conduct  of 
constablo  and  guard,  and  then  I  was  perfectly  satisfied  that  a  most  liase  friuid  had 
been  attempted;  that,  in  fact,  it  was  feared  that  the  'Morn  ms'  would  uliinit.and 
thereby  entitle  themselves  to  the  jirotection  of  the  law.  It  was  very  apparent  that 
many  of  the  bustling,  active  sjiirils  wore  afraid  'hat  there  would  bo  no  wcasion  for 
calling  out  an  overwhelming  militia  force,  for  marching  it  into  Nauvoo,  for  probr.'  N.j 
mutiny  when  there,  and  for  tho  extermination  of  tlio  '  Mormon'  race.  It  apjicannl 
that  the  constable  and  tho  escort  were  fully  in  the  secret,  und  acted  well  tlii^ir  part  to 
promote  the  conspiracy."* 

Ill  thu  morning  Uruther  Joseph  had  an  interview  with  tho  oilicori  of  tho  Lcgiun, 
*  f  >jrU'>  iliiteqr  cf  iUinsis,  page  s33. 


APPENDIX  in. 


529 


with  the  leading  members  of  the  City  Council,  and  ^^•ith  the  principal  men  of  the 
city.    Tiie  oflicers  were  instructed  to  dismiss  tlicir  men,  but  to  liave  tliem  in  a  state 
ot  readiness  to  be  called  upon  m  any  emergency  that  might  occur 
Jrf'^T  ^'fj"^^  ^  "'^1°^''  the  members  of  the  City  Council,  the  marshal,  Brothers 
Joseph  and  Hyrum  and  a  number  of  others,  started  for  Carthage,  all  on  horseback 
We  were  instructed  by  Brother  Joseph  Smith  not  to  take  any  arms,  and  we  const 
quently  left  them  behind.    We  called  at  the  house  of  Brother  Fellows  on  our  way 
ou       Brother  Fellows  lived  about  four  miles  from  Carthage.     While  at  Brother 
i-ellows    house.  Captain  Dunn,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Coolie,  one  of  the  Kovernor's 
aid-de-camps,  came  up  from  Carthage  en  route  for  Nauvoo  with  a  reciuisitiou  from 
the  governor  for  the  state  arms.    Wo  all  returned  to  Nauvoo  with  them  •  the  cov.. 
ernor's  request  was  complied  with,  and,  after  taking  some  refreshments,  we  all  re- 
turned  to  proceed  to  Carthage.     Wc  arrived  there  late  in  the  night.     A  great  deal 
of  excitement  prevailed  on  and  after  our  arrival.    The  governor  had  reclived  into 
Ins  company  all  of  the  companies  that  had  been  in  the  mob;  these  felloHs  were 
riotous  and  disorderly,  hallooing,  yelling,  and  whooping  about  tlie  streets  like  In- 
Uians,  many  of  them  intoxicated ;  the  whole  presented  a  scene  of  rowdyism  and  low- 
bred rufhamsm  only  found  among  mobocrats  and  desperadoes,  and  entirely  revolting 
to  the  best  feelings  of  humanity.     The  governor  made  a  speech  to  them  to  the  cHect 
that  he  would  show  Joseph  and  IIjTum  Smith  to  them  in  the  morning.     About  hero 
t he  companies  with  the  governor  were  drawn  ui)  iiilo  line,  and  General  Dciiming  I 
think  took  Joseph  by  the  arm  and  Ilyrum  (Arnold  says  that  Joseph  took  the  gov- 
ernors arm),  and  as  he  passed  through  between  the  ranks,  tlio  governor  leadin.'  in 
front,  very  politely  introduced  them  as  General  Joseph  Smith  and  General  llynira 
hmith.*    AH  were  orderly  and  courteous  except  one  company  of  mobocrats— the 
Car  hago  Grays— who  seemed  to  find  fault  on  account  of  too  much  honor  being  paid 
to  tlie  Mormons.     There  was  afterward  a  row  between  the  companies,  and  they 
came  pretty  near  having  a  fight;  the  more  orderly  not  feeling  disposed  to  endorso 
or  submit  to  the  rowdyism  of  the  mobocrats.    The  result  was  tluit  General  Dem- 
ming,  wlio  was  very  much  of  a  gentleman,  ordered  *hc  Carthage  Grays,  a  company 
under  the  command  of  Cajitaiu  Smith,  a  magistrate  in  Carthage,  and  a  most  violent 
mobocrat,  under  arrest.     This  matter,  however,  was  shortly  afterward  adjusted,  and 
the  diliuMilty  settled  between  them.     Tlie  mayor,  aldermen,  councilors,  as  well  as 
the  marslial  of  the  city  of  Nauvoo,  together  with  some  jiersons  wiio  had  assisted  the 
marslial  iii  removing  the  jiress  in  Nauvoo,  apjiearcd  before  Justice  Smith,  the  afore- 
Buid  captain  and  mobocrat,  to  again  answer  the  charge  of  destroying  the  pre«s  ■  but 
as  there  was  so  much  excitement,  and  as  the  man  was  an  unprincii.led  villain  before 
whom  wo  were  to  have  our  hearing,  wo  thouglit  it  most  prudent  to  give  bail,  and 
cons«iucntIy  became  security  for  each  other  in  $:m  bonds  each,  to  aiipear  b-foro 
the  I  ounty  Court  at  its  next  session.     We  had  engaged  as  counsel  a  lawyer  by  tho 

thi  tT5>V^'KlS'"  ^""^  """  ''""'"""«  """'"'*  """''P"  •""•  ">■"«»  Smith-.  p«a.InB  mrough 

Joj.i^.  .ullrit.Ml  a  f,.w  inoinmifH  prlvnto  cmvorHntlnn  ultl,  l,lm,  whirl,  tl,o  K"v.t,^  r  r 'f 'is.'  ' 

»-«lk,.,l  thr„„«h  tho  rrowl,  ,vi.h  nrl«.,ll,.r  ,;..„„nil  M-n.r.'lt.  Vomm\u^,]Z  ^  7  c  L,l  ,' t  f  uin" 
era  I), mm  nn-H  ,,n«,t..rH  Th..  ,vo,,l„  nm^ml  ,,„1,.',  until  a  .-ompuny  »f  ( 'artlmK •  "  v/flookc4 
rm  ml  ll„.  .l,,,,,-.  of  (i..„,.ml  .,.mml„g  i„  „„  „,,r„„riu,m  mn.inrr,  „f  Jhuii  m,tlro  ZhJil  n  tl"  L-nv- 
•nior.  In  th.j  mcu.  tli.u,  tlu,  K^wiimr  h.v.l  „r<!..r,Ml  tho  M'I)„n<.nKl.  tn.,pH  to  I.,  .IfHwii '  n  I.  p",! 
SiL  ;'!"  ","''  ""i"-'  :','"""'  "  f''';'"."f  "'"'".  ""7  l">vlnK  r.Hp.Mca  that  tl.oy  m kl  t  h,  v.  .iS 
vh,n  he  ,ujmn  vM.jnl  tlu-fmth  of  the  atate  that  Ao  ami  hia  friends  alwut/ba  jmtect,'lf,ZvU,. 

" ItobltiKon,  Ihn  p(|«t.mni.f,,r,  mid,  on  report  of  mnrtlnl  Itiw  ImIhb  proclnlmcd  In  Niiiivikt.  hn  hul 
■t™,..l,l,on,nll,Hn,  nuim.Mlth..p,..t-maMflr,. h1  of  tho  .tulo  <,f  tl.lnK- T  Uun.k       ,  ^ly    ^ 

'Tom  111,.  KV"';>;"1'«  'Pmrtor,  Jn„.ph  and  Ilynm,  w.ml  In  fnmt  of  tho  lino,,  In  a  holl  ",  ,  ro  of 
»  romp«ny  of  <  urtliaK.,  (my-;  at  h.  vm  nilnnto.  hofor,.  p.  Ihov  arrlvo.l  In  front  f  ho  Ih  ora^d 
pa-o.|  hoturo  tho  whol,.,  ,Io.oph  holnj.  „„  tho  right  of  (ionoml  -lionnnlnK  nn.l  llVnu    on  "ik  lofL 

JoM  Khout  wonty  Hm.M  al..ns  tho  lino  as  Uomrnl  .fo^oph  Hmlth  nml  (iomnii  Ilyrnni  .^n.ill  ho 
Kovrrnnr  wnlkln^  In  fr,.nt  ,.n  tho  l,.ft.  TI,o  Carlhiuto  (J™y,  ron..o,l  to  nrolvo  th  •  m  Iv  It,  in" 
<  ..-•ll...,,  nn.l  Homo  of  tho  oflhor.  throw  up  Ihoir  Iml.,  ,lrow  thoir  ,«vor.l»,  nn,I  ial  1  u-y  w,  n  r,r. 
rf. iro  tho,,,.  lvo»  to  tho  .  »,n„o,|  M„r,„on-  In  a  .lifforont  ^ylo.  Tho  povLi-nor  m  1 1  ly  rntn' at. 'l  t"  om 
not  lo  art  KM  r.„loly,  hut  tholr  ox.lt..monl  I.,.t.mu..m1  ;  tho  Kovcrnor.  hnw.-vor,  i..imv,l.Mnn  i  m'lf  1,mJ 
th,.m  hy  „,«kli,K  a  ,.|«.,yh,  aixl  p.on.lMnK  thorn  th„t  ll,ov%h.mM  loivo  '  fnlUa  liflotl  n  •       .  m  ml 

Hnillh  an.l  party  rLtumL.d  to  tholr  Iu.Iulni«  .t  (1..,  i„i.,:.),. „, ..     i  J.    «----«"    -   ..  "  T 

ISOT,  ,i.,Bo  -iTA  ■  " '™  '^'■"^»  ^"^  «'»  ^^'  ** 

Li. 


680 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


name  of  Wood,  of  BurlinRton,  Iowa ;  and  Reed,  I  think,  of  Madison,  Iowa.    After 
some  little  discussion  the  bonds  were  signed,  and  we  were  all  dismissed. 

Almost  immediately  after  our  dismissal,  two  men— Augustine  Spencer  and  Nor- 
ton—two worthless  fellows,  whoso  words  would  not  have  been  taken  for  five  cents 
and  the  first  of  whom  had  a  short  time  previously  been  before  the  mayor  in  Nauvoo 
for  maltreating  a  lame  brother,  made  affidavits  that  Joseph  and  Ilvrum  Smith  were 
guilty  of  treason ;  and  a  writ  was  accordingly  issued  for  their  arrest,  and  the  con- 
stable Hettesworth,  a  rough,  unprincipled  man,  wished  immediately  to  hurry  them 
away  to  prison  without  any  hearing.  His  rude,  uncouth  manner  in  the  adm"inistrn. 
tion  of  what  he  considered  the  duties  of  his  office  made  him  exceedingly  rcjiulsive  to 
us  all.  But,  independent  of  these  acts,  the  jtrocecdings  in  this  case  were  altogether 
illegal.  Providing  the  court  was  sincere,  which  it  was  not,  and  providing^tlieso 
men's  oaths  were  true,  and  that  Joseph  and  Ilyrum  were  guilty  of  treason,  still  the 
whole  course  was  illegal. 

The  magistrate  made  out  a  mittimus,  and  committed  them  to  prison  without  a 
hearing,  which  he  had  no  right  legally  to  do.  The  statute  of  Illinois  expressly  pro- 
vides that  "all  men  siiall  have  a  hearing  before  a  magistrate  before  thev  slmll  be 
committed  to  prison;"  ond  Mr.  Robert  II.  Smith,  the  magistrate,  had  made  out  a 
mittimus  committing  them  to  prison  contraiy  to  hvv  without  such  hearing.  As  I 
was  inhumed  ot  this  illegal  ])rocceding,  I  went  immediately  to  the  governor  and  in- 
tormed  him  of  it.  \V  lietlier  he  was  apprised  of  it  before  or  not,  I  do  not  know  :  but 
my  opinion  is  that  he  was. 

I  re])rcHcnted  to  him  the  characters  of  the  parties  who  had  made  ontli,  the  ontra- 
pcous  nature  of  the  charge,  the  indignity  oilcie  1  to  men  in  the  position  wliich  they 
occupied,  and  declared  to  him  that  he  knew  verv  well  it  was  a  vexatious  proceeding 
and  that  the  accused  were  not  guiltv  of  anv  sucii  crime.  The  governor  replied  "  Ho 
was  v(-ry  sorry  that  the  thing  had  occurred  ;  tiuit  he  did  m.t  believe  the  charges,  but 
tiot  he  thought  the  liost  thing  to  be  done  was  to  let  the  law  take  its  course."  I 
then  reminded  him  tliat  we  had  come  out  tliere  at  his  instance,  not  to  satisfy  the 
law,  which  we  had  done  before,  but  the  iirojudices  -.f  the  people,  in  relation  to  the 
nttair  ut  tlie  press;  that  at  his  instance  we  Jiad  given  bonds,  which  we  could  not  by 
law  be  required  to  do  to  satisfy  the  peo|iie,  and  that  it  was  asking  too  much  to  re- 
qu're  gentlemen  in  their  position  in  life  to  suffer  the  degradation  of  being  immured 
m  a  Jail  at  the  instance  i.f  such  worthless  scoundrels  as  those  who  had  made  this 
affidavit.  Tlio  governor  reidied  "tliot  it  was  an  un]iK'asant  atliiir,  and  hioked  hard  ; 
but  that  it  was  a  matter  over  which  he  hud  no  control,  as  it  belonged  to  the  judici- 
ary;  that  be,  as  the  executive,  could  not  interfere  with  their  proceedings,  atid  that 
he  had  no  doubt  but  that  they  would  immediately  be  dismissed."  I  told  bini  "that 
we  had  looked  to  liini  for  protection  from  such  insults,  and  that  I  thought  we  had  a 
right  to  do  so  fioin  the  solemn  jjromises  wliich  he  had  made  to  nie  nnd  to  Dr.  Ilern- 
liisel  in  relation  to  our  coming  without  guard  or  ninis;  that  we  bail  relied  upon  his 
faith,  and  had  a  right  to  expect  him  to  fulfill  his  engagements  after  A.e  had  placed 
ourselves  implicitly  under  his  cure,  and  conii.lied  with  all  hi.s  rcquosts,  nltliough  ex- 
tra judicial." 

He  rejilied  "that  ho  would  detail  a  guard,  if  wo  reipiinul  it,  and  see  us  lu-otectcd 
but  that  he  could  not  inteiltro  with  the  jndiiiary."  I  ex|iresHed  niv  <lissalisfactioii 
at  the  course  taken,  and  told  him  "that,  if  we  were  to  be  subject  ti)  niuh  rule,  and 
to  lie  dragged,  contrary  to  hnv,  into  |iri<on  at  the  instance  of  everv  infenml  sJoun- 
drcl  wliosi!  ontiis  could  be  bought  for  a  dram  of  whisky,  his  iiroteciioii  availed  very 
little,  and  we  had  niiscaleulated  bis  proinises." 

Seeing  there  was  no  prospect  of  re  livss  from  the  governor,  I  returned  to  the  room, 
nnd  found  the  constable  Hettenvorth  ver  ■  .^eiit  to  hurrv  llroihers  .losepli  and  Uy'. 
rum  to  pris.m,  while  the  brethren  were  .'•,  .  •istraiing  wiili  him.  At  the  snnie  lime 
n  great  rabble  was  gathered  in  ilii'  streets  .iiid  around  the  door,  and  iVoiii  tlu  rowdy- 
ism manifested  I  wiw  ufruid  there  was  ii  design  to  murder  the  prisoners  on  the  ^av 
to  hiil. 

Without  conferring  will,  any  person,  my  next  feeling  was  to  procure  a  guard,  nnd, 
••eing  a  man  habited  as  a  soldier  in  t!ie  room,  I  went  to  hitn  and  said,  "  I  am  afraid 
there  is  II  design  against  the  HvcH  of  ilie  Messrs.  Smith ;  will  you  go  inimcdialcly 
nnd  bring  your  captain;  and,  if  not  convenient,  anv  other  ciip'tain  of  a  rompanv, 
nnd  I  will  p:»y  you  well  for  your  troubh'V  He  said  ho  would,  Mid  departed  (orlfi- 
wiih,  and  soon  returned  with  his  captain,  whose  name  I  have  forgotten,  and  iutro- 
duml  hiin  to  mo.     I  told  him  of  my  funr*,  nnd  rciiuwtcd  him  immcdinlely  to  fetch 


APPENDIX  III. 


531 


time  «hen  the  constal.lc  was  hurrying  tho  brethren  down  stairs.  A  number  of  tho 
brethren  went  along,  togetlier  with  one  or  two  strangers ;  and  all  of  us,  safely  lodged 
in  ])nson,  remained  there  during  the  night.  ^  'uubi-u 

At  tlie  request  of  Joseph  Smith  for  an  interview  with  the  governor,  he  came  the 
next  morning,  Thursday,  June  2Gth,  at  half  past  0  o'clock,  accompanied  by  S,lone 
Gctldes  when  a  lengthy  conversation  was  entered  into  in  relation  to  tlie  existing 
difhculties;  and  after  some  preliminary  remarks,  at  tho  governor's  request,  Brother 
Josci)h  gave  lum  a  general  outline  of  thcstatc  of  affairs  in  relation  to  our  difficul- 
ties, the  excited  state  of  the  country,  tho  tumultuous  mobocratie  movements  of  our 
enemies,  the  precautionary  measures  used  by  himself  (Joseph  Smith),  the  acts  of  the 
city  council,  the  destruction  of  tho  press,  and  tho  moves  of  the  mob  and  ourselves  un 
to  that  time.  ^ 

The  following  report  is,  I  believe,  substantially  correct: 

(.ocernor  "  General  Smith,  I  believe  you  have  given  mo  a  general  outline  of  the 
oiinculties  that  have  existed  in  the  country  in  the  documents  forwarded  to  me  by 
IJr.  liernli.sel  and  Mr.  Taylor;  but,  nnfortunately,  there  seems  to  be  a  great  di/- 
crepaney  between  your  statements  and  those  of  your  enemies.  It  is  true  that  you 
are  substantiated  by  cvulence  and  affidavit,  but  for  such  an  extraordinary  excitc- 
ineiit  as  that  which  is  now  in  the  country  there  must  be  some  cause,  and  1  attribute 
the  last  outbreak  to  the  destruction  of  tlic  'Expositor,'  and  to  your  refusal  to  com- 
ply with  the  writ  issued  by  Esquire  Morrison.  The  press  in  tlie  United  States  is 
looked  upon  as  the  great  bulwark  of  American  freedom,  and  its  destruction  in  Nau- 
voo  was  represented  and  looked  upon  as  a  high-iiandcd  measure,  .-nd  mani'-'sts  to 
tno  people  a  disposmon  on  your  part  to  suppress  the  libcrtv  of  speech  and  of  the 
press,  lias,  with  your  retusal  to  comply  with  the  reiiuisitious  of  a  writ,  I  conceive 
to  bo  he  princiiml  cause  of  this  difficulty  ;  and  you  are  moreover  represented  to  me 
as  turbulent,  and  dehant  of  tho  laws  and  institutions  of  your  country  " 

General  .SmiM.  "tJovernor  Ford,  yon,  sir,  ns  governor  of  this  state,  are  aware  of 
the  persecutions  that  I  have  endured.  You  know  well  that  our  coui-so  lius  been  peace- 
able and  law-abiding,  for  I  have  furnished  this  stale  ever  siuro  our  settlement  here 
with  suibi'icnt  cvideneu  of  my  pacific  intentions,  and  tlioso  of  the  pooi.lo  with  whom 
1  am  associated,  by  the  endurance  of  every  conceivable  itulignitv  and  lawless  outrage 
lieriietrutcd  .qmn  me  and  iiix.n  this  peoi)le  since  our  settlementherc ;  and  you  vour- 
selt  know  that  I  have  kept  you  well  j.osted  in  rcialioii  to  all  matters  associated' with 
the  late  dilhcultios.  It  you  have  not  got  some  of  my  comiuunicatious,  it  lias  not 
been  my  lault. 

"  Agreeably  to  your  orders,  I  nasemblcd  tho  Nauvoo  Legion  for  the  i)rotcrtion  of 
JVauv()o  and  the  surrounding  comitrv  against  an  armed  band  of  maraudeis;  and 
cvei  since  tlioy  have  beni  mustered  1  have  almost  daily  communicated  with  you  in 
regard  to  all  tlio  leading  events  that  have  transpired ;  "and  whether  in  the  ea|)acitv 
ol  mavor  ol  tho  city,  or  lioiitcnant  general  of  the  Nuuvoo  Lcgioti,  I  have  striven 
acconlmg  to  the  best  of  my  judgment,  to  preserve  the  peac  o  and  to  administer  even- 
liandcd  justice;  but  my  imuives  are  impugned,  my  acts  are  misconstrued,  and  I  am 
grossly  and  wickedly  misrei.resented.  1  suppose  1  nm  indebted  for  my  incarceration 
to  the  oath  of  a  worthless  man,  who  was  wralgiicd  before  mo  and  fined  for  abusing 
and  inaliivaiiug  his  lame,  helpless  Inotlier.  That  I  should  lie  charged  by  von  sir, 
who  know  better,  of  acting  contrary  to  law,  is  to  mo  n  matter  of  surprise.  "  Was  it 
the  Mormons  or  our  enemies  who  first  conunciUTd  these  difficulties?  You  know 
well  It  was  not  us;  ami  when  this  tiiibulent,  outrageous  peojilo  commenced  their 
insurrectionary  movements,  I  mado  you  aeqiiaintcd  with  lliem  officially,  and  iiskt  il 
your  advice,  ami  Imvo  followed  htrictly  your  counsel  in  every  particular.  Who  or- 
dered out  the  Nauvoo  Legion?  I  did,  under  your  direction.  For  what  jmrpose? 
lo  mipi.iTss  the  iiisiirrecti.uiary  movi-iiiints.  It  was  nt  your  instaiue,  sir,  that  I  is- 
Hued  a  proclamation  caliiiig  upon  the  Nauvoo  Legion  to  bo  in  readiness  at  a  nio- 
iiicm  s  warning  to  guard  against  the  incursions  of  mobs,  ond  gnvo  an  order  to  Jona- 
than Dunham,  acting  niiiiiu-  general,  to  that  cll'ect. 

"Am  I.  then,  to  be  charged  f..r  the  nets  of  otheir?  and  Iiecauso  Inwlessncss  and 
nioboeracy  abound,  am  I.  when  carrying  out  your  instniclions,  to  1)0  charged  with 
not  abiding  law  ?  Why  is  il  that  I  must  be  made  accou.ilablo  for  other  men's  ads  ? 
It  tliero  is  troiilde  in  the  coiiiilrv,  neither  I  nor  niv  pc.plo  made  it;  and  all  that  wo 
have  ever  done.^afier  niiich  endnrance  on  our  [.art,  is  lo  mainlnin  and  ui.hold  the 

C!^nst,t!!t!|!:!  ■.•.:.!,  i!!=:f;;iitii;n=  f>f  ffiif  eoniiify,  lU-.il  to  protect  uU  iiyiirCU,  iiiuiKijiii,  uUU 

ponKJcuted  iwoplo  igainit  niisrulo  nnd  mob  violoiie-j. 


582 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


"  Concerning  the  destruction  of  the  jiress  to  which  vou  refer,  men  may  differ 
somewhat  in  tlieir  opinions  about  it ;  but  can  it  be  snjjposed  that  after  all  the  indig- 
nities to  which  they  have  been  subjected  outside,  that  iieojile  could  sutler  a  set  of 
worthless  vagabonds  to  come  into  tlieir  city,  and,  right  under  their  own  eyes  and 
protection,  vilify  and  calumniate  not  only  themselves,  but  the  ciiaractcr  of  their 
wives  and  daughters,  as  was  impudently  and  unblushingly  done  in  that  infamous 
and  hlthy  sheet? 

"There  is  not  a  city  in  the  United  States  that  would  have  suffered  such  an  indig- 
nity for  twenty-four  hours.     Our  wholo^peojjle  were  indignant,  and  loudly  called 
npon  our  city  authorities  for  a  redress  of  their  grievances,  which,  if  not  attended  (o 
they  themselves  would  have  taken  into  their  own  hands,  and  have  summarily  pun- 
ished the  audacious  wretches  as  they  deserved.     The  principles  of  equal  rights  that 
have  been  instilled  into  our  bosoms  from  our  cradles  as  American  citizens  forbid  us 
submitting  to  every  foul  indignity,  and  succumbing  and  iianderiiig  to  wretches  so  in- 
famous as  these.     But,  independent  of  this,  the  course  that  we  jjun-iued  we  consid- 
ered to  be  strictly  legal;  for,  notwitlstanding  the  result,  we  were  anxious  to  be  cov- 
ernod  strictly  by  law,  and  therefore  we  convened  the  citv  council ;  and  being  desi- 
rous in  our  deliberations  to  abide  by  law,  we  summoned'lcgal  counsel  to  be  present 
on  the  occasion.     Upon  investigating  the  matter,  we  found  that  our  city  charter  gave 
us  power  to  remove  all  nuisances.     Furthermore,  after  consulting  Ulackstone  upon 
what  might  be  considered  n  nuisance,  it  appeared  that  that  distinguished  lawyer 
\yho  IS  considered  authority,  I  believe,  in  all  our  courts,  states  among  other  tilings 
that    a  libelous  and  filthy  press  may  be  considered  a  nuisance,  and  abated  as  such  ' 
IJere,  then,  one  of  the  most  eminent  English  barristers,  whose  works  are  considered 
!  tandard  with  us,  declares  that  a  libelous  and  fiiiliy  jircss  niav  be  considered  a  niii- 
pnnce;  and  our  own  charter,  given  us  by  the  Legislature  of  "this  slate,  gives  us  the 
power  to  remove  nuisances;  and  by  ordering  that  jness  to  be  abated  as  a  nuisance 
we  conceived  tliat  we  were  acting  strictly  in  accordance  with  law.     We  nuulc  that 
order  in  our  coniornte  capacity,  and  the  city  mnishal  carried  it  out.     It  is  iiossiblo 
(here  may  have  been  some  better  way,  but  I  must  confess  that  I  could  not  see  it. 

"  111  relation  to  the  writ  served  upon  us,  we  were  willing  lo  abide  the  consec|uences 
of  our  own  acts,  but  were  unwilling,  in  nnswcriiig  a  writ  <if  that  kiiul,  to  sulmiit  to 
illegal  exactions,  sought  to  be  imiiosed  ujioii  us  under  the  inetcnse  of  law,  wluii  wo 
knew  they  were  in  open  violation  of  it.     When  iliat  document  was  inescnted  to  mo 
by  Jlr.  IJetteswortli,  1  offered,  in  the  i.i-csence  if  more  flian  twentv  jicrsoiis,  to  go  to 
any  otiier  magistrate,  either  in  our  i  ity,  in  Aj.iiniKKise,  or  in  anv'other  jihue  where 
we  should  be  safe,  but  we  all  refused  to  put  ourselves  into  the  jiower  of  a  mob.    W%\i 
right  had  that  constable  to  refuse  our  request?     He  bad  none  according  to  law  •  for 
you  know.  Governor  Ford,  that  the  statute  law  in  llliiuiis  is,  that  the  parlies  served 
Willi  the  writ  'shall  go  befne  him  who  issued  it,  or  k  nie  oth<r  justice  of  the  leace  ' 
Why,  then,  should  we  be  draggi-d  to  Carthage,  where  the  law  dees  not  comi]el  us  to 
go?     DiH's  not  this  look  like  many  others  of  our  iiersecutions  with  w  liicli  vou  are  ac- 
<|iiai!ited  ?  and  have  we  not  a  right  to  expect  foul  play  ?     This  verv  act  was  a  brench 
of  law  on  his  part,  an  assi.mptit)n  of  power  that  did  not  belong  t'.>  him.  and  an  at- 
tempt, at  least,  to  deprive  us  of  our  legal  and  C(.nslitutional  rights  and  i.ri\ iicge.K. 
\Mi,it  ciuild  we  do,  under  the  circumstances,  different  from  what  we  did  <l(i?     Wo 
sued  for,  niid  obtained  a  writ  of  habeas  corpus  from  the  IMunieiiml  Cdurf,  bv  which 
wc  were  deliveivd  fitim  the  hands  of  Constable  IJetteswortli,  and  brought  before  and 
n<'ipiitte<l  by  the  Municipal  Court.     After  our  acquittal,  in  a  conveisation  with  .Judge 
Thomas,  although  he  eoiisi<le:ed  the  acts  of  the  partv  ilb'gal,  lie  advised  that,  to  sat- 
isfy the  people,  we  had  belter  go  before  another  inagisliate  who  was  not  in  our 
tlimch.     In  nceordnnen  with  his  advice,  we  went  before  Es<|uire  Wells,  >nth  whom 
you  are  well  acquainted;  both  [.art ies  were  present,  witnesses  weic  called  on  both 
Kiiles  the  ease  wa.x  fully  investigated,  and  we  were  again  dismissed.     And  what  k 
this  pretended  desiit<  to  enforce  law,  aiul  wherefore  are  these  Iving,  base  rumors  put 
into  ( irenlation  but  to  seek  through  mob  inlliienee,  under  pretens<>  of  law,  to  ninko 
m  submit  to  ref|ui>ilions  whic  h  are  coiiirary  to  law  and  suliversive  of  every  priiiei|ilo 
of  justice?     And  when  you,  sir,  required  us  to  come  out  here,  we  enino,  liot  liceau.so 
i!  wa^  legal,  but  iM-cause  you  required  it  (tf  us,  and  wo  we«»  desiioMH  of  showing  to 
vou.  and  to  nil  men.  that  we  shrunk  not  from  the  most  rigid  investigation  of  our  nets. 
\\  c  rer'ainly  diil  expect  other  treatment  than  to  Jk-  immured  in  n  juil  at  the  instance 
of  th(H(.  men,  ami  1  think,  fmrn  your  plighted  faith,  we  had  n  right"  so  to  expect,  after 
disbanding  our  own  forces,  nnd  putting  oumelves  entirely  in  voiir  hands.     And  now. 


m 


APPENDIX  III.  roo 

ooo 

after  having  fulfilled  my  part,  sir,  as  a  man  and  an  American  citizen,  I  call  inion 
you,  Governor  lord,  to  deliver  us  Iroin  this  place,  and  rescue  us  from  this  outrage 
that  IS  sought  to  be  practiced  upon  us  by  a  set  of  infamous  scoundrels  " 

Governor  tord.  "But  you  have  placed  men  under  arrest,  detained  men  as  prison- 
era,  and  given  passes  to  others,  some  of  which  I  have  seen  " 

John  P.  Green  City  Marshal.  "Perhajjs  I  can  explain.  Since  these  difficulties 
have  commenced,  you  are  aware  that  we  have  been  placed  under  very  peculiar  cir 
cumstanccs;  our  city  has  been  placed  under  a  very  rigid  police  guard ;  in  addition 
to  this,  frequent  guards  have  been  jilaced  outside  tlie  city  to  prevent  any  sudden  sur- 
prise, and  those  guards  have  questioned  suspected  or  suspicious  persons  as  to  tlieir 
business.  lo  strangers,  in  some  instances,  passes  have  been  given  to  prevent  diffi- 
culty in  passing  those  guards ;  it  is  some  of  these  jjasseirthat  vou  have  seen  No 
person,  sir,  has  been  imprisoned  without  a  legal  cause  in  our  city." 

Governor.  "Why  did  you  not  give  a  more  speedy  answer  to  the  posse  that  I  sent 

General  Smith.  "We  had  matters  of  importance  to  consult  upon;  your  letter 
showed  any  thing  but  an  amiable  spirit.  We  have  suftcred  immensely  in  Missouri 
irom  mobs,  in  loss  of  projierty,  imprisonment,  and  otherwise.  It  took  some  time 
tor  us  to  weigh  duly  these  matters  ;  we  could  not  decide  ujjon  matters  of  such  im- 
portance immediately,  and  your  posse  were  too  hasty  in  returning;  we  were  cmsult- 
ing  tor  a  large  peoi)Ie,  and  vast  interests  were  at  stake.  We  had  been  outrageou'flv 
imposed  ui)on,  and  knew  not  how  far  we  could  trust  any  one ;  besides,  a  question 
necessarily  arose,  How  shall  wo  come?  Your  re(piest  was  that  wc  should  come  un- 
armed. It  became  a  matter  of  serious  imijortance  to  decide  how  far  promises  could 
be  trusted,  and  how  far  wo  were  safe  from  mob  violence.' 

Colonel  Gc,Ues.  "It  certainly  did  look,  from  all  I  have  heard,  from  the  general 
spirit  of  violence  and  mobocruey  that  hero  prevails,  that  it  was  not  Br''o  for  v(,u  to 
come  unjirotected.'  «    "  i" 

(.'ovcrnor  Ford.  "I  think  that  sufficient  time  was  not  allowed  by  the  posse  lor  von 
to  consult  and  get  readv.  They  were  too  hasty ;  but  I  suppose'  thev  found  them- 
selves botnul  by  their  orders.  I  think,  too,  there  is  a  great  deal  of  trutli  in  what  you 
say,  and  your  reasoning  is  plausible,  but  I  must  beg  leave  to  differ  from  you  in  rela- 
tion to  the  acts  of  the  city  council.  That  council,  in  my  opinion,  had  no  li-ht  to 
net  in  a  legislative  ca])aciiy  and  in  that  of  the  judiciary.  Thev  should  have  passed 
a  law  in  relation  to  the  matter,  and  then  the  Munici])al  Court,  uVon  comi)laint,  cnild 
Have  removed  it;  but  for  the  city  council  to  take  iquni  themselves  the  law-making 
mid  the  execution  of  the  law  is  in  my  oiiiiiion  wrong;  besides,  these  men  ought  lo 
Jiave  hud  a  hearing  before  their  property  was  destroyed ;  to  destroy  it  without  was 
an  infringement  on  their  rights;  besides,  it  is  so  contrary  to  the  feelings  of  American 
people  to  interfc'ie  witii  the  press.  And,  fiirthcnnore,  I  can  not  but  think  that  it 
^youla  have  heen  more  judicious  for  you  to  have  gone  with  Jlr.  Uettcsworth  to  Car- 
thage, not^  •.thstanding  tlw  law  did  not  rwpiire  it.  Concerning  your  Iwing  in  iuiJ, 
I  am  sorry  for  that ;  I  wish  it  had  been  otherwise.  I  hope  you  will  boou  be  re- 
leased, but  I  can  not  interfere." 

Josrph  .Smith.  "Governor  Ford,  allow  me,  sir,  to  bring  one  thing  to  your  mind 
hat  you  seem  to  have  overlooked.  Vou  state  that  you  think  it  would  have  been  bet- 
ter for  us  (o  have  submitted  to  the  requisition  of  Constable  Bettesworth,  and  to  have 
gone  to  (arfhage.  Do  you  not  know,  sir,  that  that  writ  was  served  at  the  instanco 
o  an  aiiti-Mornion  mob,  who  had  pass(.d  resolutions,  and  i)ublished  them,  to  tlio 
cflecf  that  they  would  exlerminate  the  '  Mormon'  leaders?  and  are  you  not  informed 
that  Captain  Anderson  was  not  only  threatened  when  coming  to  Nauvoo.  but  had  a 
gun  lired  at  Ins  boat  by  this  said  mob  in  Warsaw  when  coming  ui)  to  Nativoo.  and 
tliat  this  very  iliing  was  made  use  of  as  a  means  to  get  ns  into  their  hands;  and  we 
could  not,  vMlhout  taking  nn  armed  force  with  us,  go  there  without,  accerdiug  to 
their  pub  ished  declarations,  going  into  the  jaws  of  death  ?  To  have  taken  a  force 
would  only  have  (uniicd  the  excitement,  and  they  would  have  stated  that  we  wanted 
to  use  intimidation  ;  thcreforo  wc  thought  it  tho  most  judicious  to  avail  ourselves  of 
the  protection   li  !  w." 

Governrr  Jh'-i.ti      -I  see,  I  see." 

Joseph  Smiih.  "Furthermore,  in  relation  fo  the  press,  you  say  that  vou  dill\  r  from 
me  111  op.iiKh.  Bo  it  ho;  the  thing,  after  all,  is  (mlv  a  legal  difllcultv,  and  the 
courts,  I  sMr,„|,'  juilge,  are  competent  to  decide  on  that  matter.  If  our  act  was  ille- 
gal, wo  arc  wiUing  to  meet  it ;  and  although  1  can  not  soo  tho  distinction  that  vou 


'111 
J' 


H 


»■ 


534 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


draw  about  tho  acts  of  the  city  council,  and  what  diflPercnce  it  could  have  made  in 
point  of  fact,  law,  or  justice  between  tlie  city  councils  acting  together  or  separate  or 
how  much  more  legal  it  would  have  been  for  tho  Municipal  Court,  who  were  a  part 
of  the  city  council,  to  act  separate  instead  of  with  the  councilors,  yet,  if  it  is  deemed 
that  we  did  a  wrong  in  destroying  that  press,  we  refuse  not  to  pay  for  it ;  we  are  de- 
sirous  to  fulfill  the  law  in  every  particular,  and  arc  responsible  for  our  acts.  You 
say  that  the  parties  ought  to  have  had  a  hearing.  Had  it  been  a  civil  suit,  this,  of 
course,  woyld  have  been  proper;  but  there  was  a  flagrant  violation  of  every  princi- 
ple of  right — a  nuisance  ;  and  it  was  abated  on  the  same  jirinciple  that  any  nuisance 
stench,  or  putrefied  carcass  would  have  been  removed.  Our  firet  step,  therefore  was 
to  stop  the  foul,  noisome,  filthy  sheet,  and  then  the  next  in  our  opinion  would  have 
been  to  have  prosecuted  tH§  man  for  a  breach  of  public  decency.  And  furthermore 
again  let  me  say.  Governor  Ford,  I  shall  look  to  you  for  our  protection.  I  believe 
you  are  talking  of  going  to  Nauvoo ;  if  you  go,  sir,  I  wish  to  go  along.  I  refuse  not 
to  answer  any  law,  but  I  do  not  consider  myself  safe  here." 

Governor.  "I  am  in  hopes  that  you  will  be  acquitted,  and  if  I  go  I  will  certainly 
take  you  along.  I  do  not,  however,  apprehend  danger.  I  think  you  are  jierfeetly 
safe  either  hero  or  any  where  else.  I  can  not,  however,  interfere  with  the  law.  I 
am  placed  in  peculiar  circumstances,  and  seem  to  be  blamed  bv  all  parties." 

Joseph  Smilh.  "Governor  Ford,  I  ask  nothing  but  what  is'legal ;  I  have  a  right 
10  cxiwct  protection,  at  least  from  you;  for,  independent  of  law,  vou  have  i)ledged 
your  faith  and  that  of  the  state  for  my  protection,  and  I  wish  to  go  to  Nauvoo." 

Governor.  "And  you  shall  have  protection.  General  Smith.  I  did  not  make  this 
promise  without  conbulting  my  officers,  who  all  pledged  their  honor  to  its  fullillment. 
I  do  not  know  that  I  shall  go  to-morrow  to  Nauvoo,  but  if  I  do  I  will  take  vou 
along."  •' 

At  a  quarter  past  ten  o'clock  tho  governor  left. 

At  about  half  past  twelve  o'clock,  Mr.  Kced,  one  of  Joseph  s  counsel,  came  in,  ap- 
parently much  elated;  he  stated  that,  "ujmn  an  examination  of  the  law,  he  found 
that  the  magistrate  had  transcended  his  jurisdiction,  and  that,  having  committed 
them  without  an  examination,  his  jurihdiction  ended;  that  he  had  him  ujwn  a  pin- 
hook  ;  that  he  ought  to  have  examined  them  before  ho  committed  them,  and  that 
having  violated  the  law  in  this  jiarticular,  ho  had  no  farther  power  over  them ;  for' 
once  committed,  they  wore  out  of  his  Jurisdiction,  as  the  jjower  of  tho  magistrate  cxI 
tended  no  farther  than  their  committal,  and  that  now  they  could  not  be  brought  out 
exce])t  at  the  regular  session  of  the  Circuit  Court,  or  by  a  "writ  of  habeas  corpus ;  but 
that  if  Justice  Smith  would  consent  to  go  to  Nauvoo  for  trial,  he  would  compromise 
matters  with  him,  and  overlook  this  matter." 

Mr.  Reed  farther  stated  that  "tho  'anti-Mormons,'  or  mob,  had  concocted  a 
scheme  to  get  out  a  writ  from  Missouri,  with  a  denumd  upon  Governor  Ford  for  the 
arrest  of  Joseph  Smith  and  his  conveyance  to  Missouri,  and  that  a  man  by  the  name 
of  Wilson  had  returned  from  Missouri  tho  night  before  the  burning  of  tile  press  for 
this  purjiose." 

_  At  half  jiast  two  o'clock  Constable  Bcttesworth  came  to  the  jail  with  a  man  named 
Simpson,  professing  to  have  some  order,  but  ho  would  not  send  uji  his  name,  ami  tlie 
guard  woidd  not  let  him  ])ass.  Dr.  Hornhisel  and  brother  A\'asson  went  to  inform 
the  governor  and  council  of  this.  At  about  twenty  minutes  to  three  ])r.  Bcnihiscl 
returned,  and  stated  that  he  ihnught  the  governor  was  doing  all  he  could.  At  about 
ten  minutes  to  three  Hyrum  Kimtmll  appeared  with  news  from  Nauvoo. 

Soon  after  Constable  Hettesworth  came  with  an  order  from  Ksipiire  Smith  to  eon- 
yey  the  i)risoners  to  the  Cf)nrt-house  for  trial.  He  was  informed  that  the  process  was 
illegal,  that  they  had  Ix-en  placed  tlierc  contrary  to  law,  and  that  tliev  refused  to 
come  unless  by  legal  jirocess.  I  was  informed  "that  Justice  Smith  (who  was  also 
Captain  of  the  Carthage  (Jrays)  went  to  the  governor  and  informed  him  of  t|io  mat- 
ter, and  that  the  governor  replied,  "You  have  your  forces,  und  of  coni-se  can  ui^e 
them."  The  constable  crtaiidy  did  return,  accompanied  by  a  guard  of  armed  men 
and  by  force,  and  under  jtroteist.  hurried  th<-  jirisouers  to  tin"  court. 

About  four  o'clock  the  case  wiis  called  by  Captain  Hobert  F.  Smith.  J.  1'.  The 
counsel  of  tbp  pri-oners  called  for  fubpa-iuw  "to  bring  witnesses.  At  twcntv-five  min- 
utes |r..i,«t  four  ho  took  n  copy  of  tlie  order  to  bring  the  prisonera  from  Jail  to  trial, 
and  nt'lerwaril  he  took  name*  of  witnesses. 

Counsel  present  for  the  i>Mte  :  HiglK-e,  Skinner,  Sharite.  Kmmons.  and  Morrison. 
Twouiy-five  miuutos  to  live  tho  writ  wrnt  n-iumed  «.<!  nerved,  June  L'oth. 


APPENDIX  m. 


535 


Many  remarks  were  made  at  the  court  that  I  paid  but  little  attention  to,  as  I  con- 
sidcred  the  whole  thing  illegal  and  a  complete  burlesque.  Wood  objected  to  the 
proceedings  in  toto,  in  consequence  of  its  illegality,  showing  that  the  prisoners  were 
not  only  illegally  committed,  but  that,  being  once'committcd,  the  magistrate  had  no 
farther  power  over  them ;  but  as  it  was  the  same  magistrate  before  whom  he  was 
pleading  who  imprisoned  them  contrary  to  law,  and  the  same  who,  as  caijtain,  forced 
them  from  jail,  his  arguments  availed  but  little.  lie  then  urged  that  the  prisoners  be 
remanded  until  witnesses  could  be  had,  and  applied  for  a  continuance  for  that  purpose. 
Skinner  suggested  until  twelve  o'clock  next  day.  Wood  again  demanded  until  witl 
nesses  could  be  obtained ;  that  the  court  meet  at  a  siMcified  time,  and  that,  if  wit- 
nesses were  not  present,  again  adjourn,  without  calling  the  prisoners.  After  various 
remarks  from  Reed,  Skinner,  and  others,  the  court  stated  that  the  writ  was  served 
yesterday,  and  that  it  will  give  until  to-morrow  at  twelve  JI.  to  get  witnesses. 

We  then  returned  to  jail.  Immediately  after  our  return  Dr.  Bernhisel  went  to 
the  governor,  and  obtained  from  him  an  order  for  us  to  occupy  a  large  open  room 
containing  a  bedstead.  1  rather  think  that  the  same  room  had  been  appropriated 
to  the  use  of  debtors ;  at  any  rate,  there  was  free  access  to  the  jailer's  house,  and  no 
bars  or  locks  except  such  as  might  be  on  the  outside  door  of  the  jail.  The  jailer, 
Mr.  George  W.  Stegludl,  and  his  wife,  manifested  a  disposition  to  make  us  as  com- 
fortable as  they  could ;  wo  ate  at  their  table,  which  was  well  provided,  and  of  course 
paid  for  it. 

I  do  not  remember  the  names  of  all  who  were  with  us  that  night  and  the  next 
morning  in  jail,  for  several  went  and  came  ;  among  those  that  we  considered  station- 
ary were  Stephen  Markham,  John  8.  Fulmer,  Captain  Dan  Jones,  Dr.  Williard  Rich- 
ards, and  myself.  Dr.  Bernhisel  says  that  he  was  there  from  AVedncsdav  in  the  aft- 
ernoon until  eleven  o'clock  next  day.  We  were,  however,  visited  by  numerous 
friends,  among  whom  were  Uncle  John  Smith,  Ilyrum  Kimball,  Cyrus  II.  Wheelock, 
besides  lawyers,  as  counsel.  There  was  also  a  great  variety  of  conversation,  which 
was  rather  desultory  than  otherwise,  and  referred  to  circumstances  that  had  tran- 
spired ;  our  former  and  present  grievances ;  the  spirit  of  the  troops  around  us,  and 
the  disposition  of  the  governor;  the  devising  for  legal  and  other  plans  for  deliver- 
ance;  the  nature  of  testimony  required;  the  gathering  of  proper  witnesses;  and  a 
variety  of  other  tojiics,  including  our  religimis  hopes,  etc. 

During  one  of  these  conversations  Dr.  Rifluirds  renuirkcd :  "Brother  Joscjih,  it  is 
necessary  that  you  die  in  this  nuittcr,  and  if  they  will  take  me  in  your  stead,  I  will 
suffer  for  you."  At  another  time,  when  conversing  about  deliverance,  I  said,  "Broth- 
er Joseph,  if  you  will  i)ermit  it,  and  say  the  word,  I  will  have  you  out  of  this  prison 
in  five  hours,  if  the  jail  has  to  come  down  to  do  it."  My  idea  was  to  go  to  Nauvoo, 
and  collect  a  force  sufficient,  as  I  considered  the  whole  affair  a  legal  farce,  and  a  fla- 
grant outrage  ujjon  our  liberty  and  rights.     Brother  Joseph  refused. 

Elder  Cyrus  Wheelock  came  in  to  see  us,  and  when  he  was  about  leaving  drew  a 
small  pistol,  a  six-shooter,  from  his  jjocket,  remarking  at  the  same  time,  "Would 
any  of  you  like  to  have  this  ?"  Brother  Joseph  immediately  replied,  "Yes,  give  it  to 
me;"  whereupon  ho  took  the  pistol,  and  ])Ut  it  in  his  pantaloons  pocket.  The  j)istol 
was  a  six-shooting  revolver,  of  Allen's  patent ;  it  belonged  to  me,  and  was  one  that 
I  furnished  to  Brother  Wheelock  when  he  talked  of  going  with  mo  to  the  East,  pre- 
vious to  our  coming  to  Carthage.  I  have  it  now  in  my  possession.  Brother  Whee- 
lock went  out  on  some  errand,  and  WiH  not  sutVeri-d  to  return.  The  rejiort  of  the 
governor  having  gone  to  Nauvoo  without  taking  the  prisoners  along  with  him 
caused  very  unpleasant  feelings,  as  we  were  aiijtrised  that  we  were  left  to  the  tender 
mercies  of  tlie  Carthage  Grays,  a  comi)any  strietly  mohocrntic,  and  wlicmi  wo  know 
to  be  our  most  deadly  enemies,  and  their  captain,  Esiiuiro  Smith,  was  a  most  unjirin- 
cipled  villain.  Besides  this,  all  the  mob  forces,  ciunprising  the  governor's  tnuijig, 
were  dismissed,  with  the  exceptitui  of  one  or  two  companies,  which  the  g  ivcvuor  took 
with  him  to  Nauvoo.  The  great  part  of  the  mob  was  liberated,  tlio  remainder  was 
our  guard. 

Wo  looked  upon  it  not  only  as  a  breach  of  faith  on  tiui  part  of  the  governor,  but 
also  as  an  indication  of  ii  desire  to  insult  us.  if  nothing  more,  by  1,  .iviiig  us  in  tho 
jiroximity  of  Muh  nu'ii.  The  prevcniiuu  of  Wiieciock's  return  was  among  the  first 
of  their  hostih!  nuivements. 

Colonel  Markham  then  went  out,  and  he  was  also  prevented  from  rctuming.  IIo 
wan  very  angry  at  this,  but  the  mul)  paid  no  attention  to  him;  they  drove  him  out  of 
town  at  the  point  of  tho  bayonet,  and  threatened  to  shoot  him  if  ho  returned ;  he 


,|i 


k 


636 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


went,  I  am  informGd,  to  Nauvoo  for  tlio  purpose  of  raising  a  compnnv  of  men  for  our 

KrWheSocfdid'at"  "^"'  '"^  ''^"'''^  "''"'  ^^''"'^^^'^^  =  '' ''  '"">'  «'-'-  '^>^' 
Some  time  after  dinner  wc  sent  for  some  wine.  It  has  been  reported  by  sor.ie  that 
this  was  taken  as  a  sacrament.  It  was  no  such  thing;  our  spirits  were  Kenerally 
du  and  heavy,  and  ,t  was  sent  for  to  revive  us.  I  think  it  was  Captain  Jones  who 
went  after  it,  but  they  would  not  sufter  liim  to  return.  1  believe  we  all  drnnk  of  the 
wine,  and  gave  some  to  one  or  two  of  tlie  prison  guards.  We  all  of  us  felt  unusually 
dull  and  languid  with  a  remarkable  depression  of  spirits.  In  consonance  with  those 
tcelings  I  sang  the  following  song,  that  had  lately  been  introduced  into  Nauvoo,  en- 
titled,  "A  poor  wayfaring  man  of  grief,"  etc. 


1.  A  poor  wayfaring  mnn  of  grief 

Until  often  cros.s'dnie  oil  my  wuy, 
■NVlio  siic:l  PI)  humbly  for  reliof 
That  I  could  Dcvir  answer  Nay, 

2. 1  had  not  i<^^..cr  to  ask  his  name, 
Wliither  lie  went,  or  wlunce  lie  came; 
Yet  tlifie  wart  siimetliing  in  liin  eye 
That  won  my  love,  1  know  not  wliy. 

8.  Once,  when  my  scanty  meal  was  npread, 
IIo  cnti  r'd— not  a  word  lie  ppake  1 
Just  iierirfhing  for  want  of  hroad ; 
I  gave  liiin  all :  he  blcsa'd  it,  brake, 

4.  And  ate,  but  gave  me  part  again  ; 
Mine  was  an  angd'n  (Kirtion  then, 
For  while  I  fed  with  eager  haste, 
The  crust  was  manna  to  my  taste. 

8.  I  «piod  him  where  a  fountain  hurst 

Clear  from  the  rock—hlri  Btrengtli  was  gono— 
The  hcedlorts  water  mock'd  Ids  thirst ; 
He  heard  it,  saw  it  hurrying  on. 

0. 1  ran  and  raised  tlio  snlT'ier  up: 
'Ihrioe  frum  the  stream  he  diaiiiM  my  cup, 
I1!pi)M,  and  return'd  it  niniiiiigo'er  ; 
I  drank,  and  never  thirsted  more. 

7. 'TwiiB  ni^'ht;  the  floods  were  out ;  it  blew 
A  wiut'  r  hurricane  aloof; 
I  heard  his  voice  abroad,  and  flew 
To  bid  him  welcome  to  my  roof. 


8.  f  wami'd,  I  clothed,  I  eheer'd  my  guest, 
I  laid  hun  on  uiy  couch  to  rest; 

Then  made  the  earth  my  bod,  and  scem'd 
In  Eden's  garden  while  I  dreani'd. 

9.  Stripp'd,  wounded,  beaten  nigh  to  deatli, 

I  found  him  by  the  highway  side; 
I  roused  his  pulse,  brought  back  his  breath, 
lievived  his  spirit,  and  supplied 

10.  AVine,  oil,  refreshment :  he  was  heal'd ; 
I  had  myself  a  wound  concenl'd, 
But  from  that  hour  forgot  the  smart, 
And  peace  bound  up  my  broken  heart. 

11.  In  prison  I  saw  him  next,  condemn'd 
To  meet  a  traitor's  doom  at  morn; 

The  tide  of  lying  ton.L'nes  I  stemni'd, 
And  honor'd  him  'mid  shame  and  scorn, 

12.  My  friendship's  utmost  zeal  to  trj', 
He  asked  if  I  for  him  would  die; 
The  flesh  was  weak;  my  blood  ran  chill: 
I'.ut  tlie  free  spirit  cried  "I  will." 

13.  Th.n  in  a  moment  to  my  view 
The  stranger  started  from  disguise  ; 

The  tokens  in  his  hands  I  knew; 
The  Savior  stootl  before  mine  eyes. 

14.  He  spake— and  my  pior  name  he  named— 
"l)f  me  thou  hast  not  been  ashamed  ; 
These  deeds  shall  thy  memorial  hi'; 
Fcur  not ;  thou  didst  them  unto  me.' 


The  pong  is  pathetic,  and  the  tune  quite  jilaintivc,  and  was  vcrv  much  in  accord- 
ance with   our  feelings  at   tlic   time,  for  our  spirits  were    all  dcjiressed,  dull    and 
pldoniy,  uiul  surcharged  with  iudelinite  ominous  forebodings.     After  a  lii].se  of  some 
time,  Hictlicr  llynim  rcipicstcd  me  ngiiin  to  sing  that  song.     I  rcjilicd,  "  Rrothcr 
Ilyniiii,  I  tlo  not  feel  like  singing;"  when  he  remarked,  "Oh!  never  mind-  com- 
iiieiice  singing,  niid  you  will  get  the  spirit  of  it."    At  his  rccpicst  I  did  so.     JSoon 
afterward  I  was  sitting  at  one  of  tlie  front  windows  of  the  jail,  when  I  saw  a  number 
of  men,  with  ])uintc<l  faces,  c.iniing  round  the  corner  of  tlie  jail,  and  aiming  toward 
the  stair-:.     The  other  brciliren  hud  seen  the  same,  for,  as  I  went  to  the  door,  I  found 
Urollu  r  Ilyrum  Smith  and  Dr.  Kichards  already  leaning  against  it ;  tlicy  both  press- 
ed ngalnst  the  door  with  their  sliouldiTS  to  jirevent  its  being  ojiened,  as  the  lock  and 
latch  wore  eomjiarativcly  useless.     AVliile  in  this  position,  the  mob,  who  had  come  up 
stairs,  and  strove  to  ojan  the  dour,  jirobablv  thought  it  was  l.icked,  and  fu-cd  a  ball 
tliroiigli  the  keyhole;  at  this  Dr.  Hichards  and  Urotlicr  Hyniin  leaped  back  from  the 
ddor,  witli  their  faces  toward  it;   almost  instantly  another  ball  jmsscd  tln<  iigli  the 
panel  of  the  door,  and  struck  IJinther  Ilyriim  on  the  lift  side  of  the  nose,  entering  his 
face  Mild  head;  simultaneously,  at  the  same  instant,  anidher  ball  fmni  the  outside 
entered  his  back,  ]ia.ssing  through  his  body  and  striking  his  watch.     The  ball  camo 
from  the  back,  llirongli  the  jail  window,  opposite  the  door,  and  iiinst,  from  its  r.inge 
h.ave  been  fired  from  the  Carthage  Grays,  as  the  balls  of  tire-arms,  shot  dose  by  the 
jail,  would  have  entered  the  ceiling,  we  being  in  the  second  story,  and  there  never 
was  a  time  after  that  Hyriim  could  liave  received  the  latter  wound.     Immediatelv, 
when  the  bails  struck  him,  he  fell  flat  on  his  buck,  erj-ing  as  ho  foil,  "I  nm  ii  deiid 
man  I"     He  never  moved  aflerward, 

1  shall  never  forget  the  feeling  id' deep  sympathy  and  r<  ;;ard  innnifested  in  the 
coiiiiienaneu  of  Uru<hcr  Josepli  as  ho  drew  nigh  to  llyriim,  and,  leaning  over  iiim, 


M 


APPENDIX  III. 


537 


exclaimed,  ''Oh!  my  poor,  dear  brother  Hyrum."  He,  however,  instantly  arose, 
and  with  a  firm,  quick  step,  and  a  determined  expression  of  countenance,  approach- 
ed tlie  door,  and  pulling  the  six-shooter  left  by  Brother  Wheelock  from  his  pocket, 
opened  the  door  slightly,  and  snapped  the  pistol  six  successive  times;  onlv  three  of 
the  barrels,  however,  were  discharged.  I  afterward  understood  that  two  or  three 
were  wounded  by  these  discharges,  two  of  whom,  I  am  informed,  died  I  had  in  my 
hands  a  large,  strong  hickory  stick,  brought  there  by  Brother  Markham,  and  left  by 
him,  which  I  had  seized  as  soon  as  I  saw  the  mob  approach ;  and  while  Brother  Jo- 
seph was  firing  the  pistol,  I  stood  close  behind  him.  As  soon  as  he  had  discharged 
It  he  stepped  back,  and  I  immediately  took  his  place  next  the  door,  while  he  occupied 
the  one  I  Iiad  done  while  he  was  shooting.  Brother  Richards,  at  this  time,  had  a 
knotty  walking-stick  in  his  hands  belonging  to  me,  and  stood  next  to  Brother  Joseph, 
a  little  farther  from  the  door,  in  an  oblique  direction,  apparently  to  avoid  the  rake  of 
the  fire  from  the  door.  The  firing  of  Brother  Jose])h  made  our  assailants  pause  for 
a  moment ;  very  soon  after,  howerer,  they  pushed  the  door  some  distance  open,  and 
protruded  and  discharged  their  guns  into  the  room,  when  I  parried  them  off  with  my 
stick,  giving  another  direction  to  the  balls. 

It  certainly  was  a  terrible  scene :  streams  of  fire  as  thick  as  my  arm  passed  by  me 
as  these  men  fired,  and,  unarmed  as  we  were,  it  looked  like  certain  death.  I  re- 
member feeling  as  though  my  time  liad  come,  but  I  do  not  know  when,  iu  any  crit- 
ical position,  I  was  more  calm,  unruffled,  and  energetic,  and  acted  with  more  ],rompt- 
ness  and  decision.  It  certainly  was  far  from  pleasant  to  be  so  near  the  muzzles  of 
tliose  fire-.arms  as  they  belched  forth  their  liquid  flame  and  deadly  balls.  While  I 
was  engaged  in  parrying  the  guns.  Brother  Joseph  said,  "  That's  right,  Brother  Tay- 
lor ;  parry  tliem  off  as  well  as  you  can."  These  were  the  last  words  I  ever  heard  him 
speak  on  earth. 

Every  moment  the  crowd  at  the  door  became  more  dense,  as  thev  were  unques- 
tionably pressed  on  by  those  in  the  rear  ascending  the  stairs,  until  the  whole  entrance 
at  the  door  was  literally  crowded  with  muskets  and  rifles,  which,  with  tlie  swearing, 
shouting,  and  demoniacal  expressions  of  those  outside  the  door  and  on  the  stairs,  and 
the  firing  of  guns,  mingled  with  their  horrid  oaths  and  execrations,  made  it  look  like 
Pandemonium  let  loose,  and  was,  indeed,  a  fit  representation  of  the  horrid  deed  in 
whicli  they  were  engaged. 

After  parrying  the  guns  for  soir  *ime,  which  now  protruded  thicker  and  farther 
into  the  room,  and  seeing  no  hope  .  i  escape  or  protection  there,  as  we  were  now  un- 
armed, it  occurred  to  me  tjiat  we  might  have  some  friends  outside,  and  that  there 
miglit  there  be  some  chance  of  escape,  but  here  there  seemed  to  be  none.  As  I  ex- 
pected them  every  moment  to  rush  into  the  room  —  notliing  but  extreme  cowardice 
having  tliiis  far  kept  them  out  — as  the  tumult  and  pressure  increased,  without  any 
other  hope,  I  made  a  sj)ring  for  the  window,  which  was  right  in  front  of  the  jail  door, 
where  the  mob  was  standing,  and  also  exposed  to  the  fire  of  tlie  Carthage  Gv.ays,  who 
were  stationed  some  ten  or  twelve  rods  oft'.  Tlie  weather  was  hot,  we  all  of" us  had 
our  coats  off,  and  the  window  was  raised  to  admit  air ;  as  I  reached  the  window,  and 
was  on  the  i)oint  of  leaping  out,  I  was  struck  by  a  ball  from  the  door  about  midway 
of  my  thigh,  which  struck  the  bone,  and  flattened  out  almost  to  the  size  of  a  quarter 
of  a  dollar,  and  then  passed  on  througii  the  (Icsliy  part  to  within  about  half  an  inch 
of  the  outside.  I  think  some  prominent  nerve  must  h.ivo  been  severed  or  injured,  for 
as  soon  as  tlie  ball  struck  mo  I  fell  like  a  bird  wlien  shot,  or  an  ox  struck  by  a  butch- 
er, and  lost  entirely  and  instantaneously  all  jmwcr  of  action  or  locomotion.  I  fell  on 
to  the  window-sill,  and  cried  out,  "  I  mil  shot !"  Not  possessing  any  power  to  move, 
I  felt  myself  falling  outside  of  the  window,  but  immediately  I  fell  inside,  from  some, 
nt  that  time,  unknown  cause ;  when  I  struck  tlic  floor  my  animati(m  seemed  restored, 
as  I  have  seen  sometimes  squirrels  and  birds  after  being  shot.  As  soon  as  I  felt  the 
power  of  motion  I  crawled  under  the  bed,  whicli  was  in  a  corner  of  the  room,  not  far 
from  the  window  where  I  received  my  wound.  While  on  my  way  and  under  the 
bed  I  was  wounded  in  three  other  places ;  one  ball  entered  a  little  below  tlie  left 
knee,  and  never  was  extracted  ;  another  entered  tlie  forei)art  of  mv  left  arm,  a  little 
above  the  wrist,  and,  passing  down  by  the  joint,  lodged  in  the  fleshy  part  of  my  hand, 
about  midway,  a  little  above  the  upper  joint  of  my  little  finger ;  anotlier  struck  mo 
on  the  fleshy  part  of  my  left  hip,  and  tore  away  the  flesh  as  largo  as  my  hand,  dash- 
ing the  mangled  fragments  of  flosli  and  blood  against  the  wall. 

My  wounds  were  painful,  and  the  sensation  i)roduced  was  as  though  a  ball  had 
passed  through  and  down  the  whole  length  of  my  leg.     I  very  well  remember  my  re- 


538 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


?U- 


_  Brother  Richards  was  veiy  ranch  troul)led,  and  exclaimed,  "  Oh  !  Brother ' 
IS  it  possible  that  tliey  have  killed  both  Urother  Hyrum  and  Joseph  ?  it  can  n 
ly  be,  and  yet  I  saw  them  shoot  him ;"  and,  elevating  his  hands  two  or  three 
he  exclaimed,  "Oh  Lord,  my  God,  spare  thy  servants !"    He  then  said,  "] 


flections  at  the  time.  I  had  a  very  painful  idea  of  becoming  lame  and  decrepit,  and 
bemg  an  object  of  pity,  and  I  felt  as  though  1  had  rather  die  than  be  placed  in  such 
circumstances. 

It  would  seem  that  immediately  after  my  attempt  to  leap  out  of  the  window,  Jo- 
seph also  did  the  wme  thing,  of  which  circumstance  I  have  no  knowledge  only  from 
information.  The  first  thing  that  I  noticed  was  a  ciy  tliat  he  had  leaped  out  of  the 
window.  A  cessation  of  firing  followed,  the  mob  rushed  down  stairs,  and  Dr  Rich- 
ards went  to  the  window.  Immediately  afterward  I  saw  the  doctor  going  toward 
the  jail  door,  and  as  there  was  an  iron  door  at  the  head  of  the  stairs  adjoining  our 
door  which  led  into  the  cells  for  criminals,  it  struck  mo  that  the  doctor  was  going  in 
there,  and  I  said  to  him,  "  Stop,  doctor,  and  take  me  along."  lie  proceeded  to  the 
door  and  opened  it,  and  then  returned  and  di-aggcd  me  along  to  a  small  cell  pre- 
pared for  criminals.  ^ 
Brother  Richards  was  veiymuch  troul)led,  and  exclaimed,  "Oh  !  Brother  Taylor 

1  not  sure- 
ree  times, 

;■;■-.-'      — ." — '  "■.'  """)  "I'""-  ""J  oiii.uiiioi       iiu  men  saiu,  "Brother 

laylor,  tins  is  a  terrible  event;"  and  he  dragged  me  farther  into  the  cell,  saying  "I 
am  sorry  I  can  not  do  better  for  you  ;"  and,  taking  an  old,  filthy  mattress,  he  co'vcr- 
ed  me  with  it  and  said,  "That  may  liidc  you,  and  you  may  vet  live  to  tell  the  tale, 
but  I  expect  they  will  kill  me  in  a  few  moments."  While  lying  in  this  position  I  sufl 
lered  the  most  excruciating  pain. 

•  S"*^'' "f"-'»'"''7'l  I^r-  Kiehards  came  to  me,  informing  me  that  the  mob  had  procip- 
itately  tied  and  at  tlie  same  time  confirming  my  worst  fears  that  Joscpli  was  assurcd- 
Jy  dead.  I  felt  a  dull,  lonely,  sickening  sensation  at  tlie  news.  When  I  reflected 
that  our  noljle  chieftain,  the  jn-ophet  of  the  living  God,  had  fallen,  and  that  I  had 
seen  his  brother  in  the  cold  embrace  of  death,  it  seemed  as  though  there  was  an  open 
void  or  vacuum  m  the  great  field  of  human  existence  to  me,  and  a  dark  cloomv 
chasm  in  the  kingdom,  and  that  we  were  left  alone.  Oh,  how  lonely  was  that  feel- 
ing !  how  cold,  barren,  and  desolate !  In  the  midst  of  difliculties  he  was  always  the 
hrst  m  motion  ;  m  critical  position  his  counsel  was  always  sought.  As  our  prophet 
he  approached  our  God,  and  obtained  for  us  his  will ;'  but  now  our  prophet,  our 
counselor,  our  general,  our  leader  was  gone,  and,  amid  tlio  fierv  ordeal  that  we  then 
had  to  ii.-vss  through,  we  were  left  nionc  without  his  aid,  and  as  our  future  guide  for 
things  si)intual  or  tem])oral,  and  for  all  things  pertaining  to  this  world  or  the  next 
lie  had  spoken  for  the  last  time  on  earth.  ' 

These  reflections  and  a  thousand  others  flashed  upon  my  mind.  I  thought  Why 
must  the  good  perish,  and  tlie  virtuous  be  dcstroved  ?  Whv  must  God's  nobility  the 
salt  of  the  earth,  the  most  exalted  of  the  human  familv,  and  tlie  most  perfect  types 
of  all  excellence,  fall  victims  to  the  cruel,  fiendish  hate  of  incnrnato  devils  ? 

The  poignancy  of  my  grief,  I  i)resume,  however,  was  somewhat  allayed  by  the  ex- 
treme sutlering  that  I  endured  from  my  wounds. 

Soon  afterward  I  was  taken  to  the  head  of  the  stairs  and  laid  there,  where  I  had  a 
full  view  of  our  beloved  and  now  murdered  brother  Hvrum.  There  he  lay  as  I  had 
left  him  ;  ho  had  not  moved  a  limb  ;  he  lay  placid  and  calm,  a  monument  of  great- 
ness even  in  death ;  but  his  noble  spirit  had  left  its  tenement,  and  was  gone  to  dwell 
in  regions  more  congenial  to  its  exalted  nature.  Poor  Ilvrum !  he  was  a  great  and 
a,  good  man,  and  my  soul  was  cemented  to  his.  If  ever  "there  was  an  exemplary 
honest,  aiul  virtuous  man,  an  embodiment  of  all  that  is  noble  in  the  human  form 
Ilynim  iSmith  was  its  rejiresentativc.  ' 

Whil(!  I  lay  there  a  number  of  persons  came  around,  among  whom  was  a  jihysician 
The  doctor,  on  seeing  a  liall  lodged  in  my  left  hand,  took  a  penknife  from  Id's  pock- 
et and  made  an  incision  in  it  for  the  puriuise  of  extracting  the  ball  therefrom,  and 
having  obtained  a  jiair  of  carix;nter's  comi)asses,  made  use  of  them  to  draw  or  pry 
out  the  bill!,  alternately  using  the  penknife  and  compasses.  After  sawing  for  some 
time  with  a  dull  i>enkiiife,  and  prying  and  pulling  witii  the  compasses,  he  ultimately 
succeeded  in  extracting  tlio  ball,  wliicli  was  about  a  half  ounce  one.  Some  time  aft- 
erward he  remarked  to  a  friend  of  mine  tiiat  "I  had  nerves  like  the  devil  to  stand 
what  I  (lid  in  its  extraction."  I  really  thought  I  had  need  of  nerves  to  stand  such 
surgical  butchery,  and  that,  whatever  my  nerves  may  bo,  liis  practice  Wiis  devilish. 

This  c()m])any  wished  to  remove  me  to  Mr.  Hamilton's  hotel,  the  iilace  where  wo 
had  staid  previous  to  our  incarceration  in  jail.  I  told  them,  however,  that  I  did  not 
Wish  to  go ;  I  did  not  consider  it  safe.     They  protested  that  it  was,  and  that  I  was 


APPENDIX  III. 


539 


i  I 


safe  with  them ;  that  it  was  a  perfect  oiitrag?.  for  men  to  bo  used  ns  wo  had  been  j 
that  they  were  my  friends;  that  it  was  for  my  Kood  they  were  counseling  me,  and 
that  1  could  be  better  taken  care  of  there  than  here. 
_  I  replied,  "I  don't  know  you.  Who  am  I  among?  I  am  surrounded  by  assas- 
sms  and  murderers  ;  witness  your  deeds !  Don't  talk  to  me  of  kindness  or  comfort ; 
look  at  your  murdered  victims.     Look  at  me  !     I  want  none  of  your  counsel  nor  dbm! 

i.',        f^°  ^'^y  ^^  '?'"'^  ^""^"^y  •''''■'^ !  I  •=""  ^°  "^''"'■'^'l  <''■  "one  any  where,"  etc. 

ihcy  'God  damned  their  souls  to  hell,"  made  the  most  solemn  asseverations,  and 
swore  by  God  and  the  devil,  and  every  thing  else  that  they  could  think  of  that  they 
would  stand  by  me  to  death  and  protect  me.  In  half  an  hour  every  one  of  them  had 
fled  to  the  town. 

Soon  after  a  coroner's  jury  were  assembled  in  the  room  over  the  body  of  Hyrum 
Among  the  jurors  was  Captain  Smith,  of  the  "Carthage  Grays,"  who  had  assisted 
in  the  murder,  and  the  same  justice  before  whom  we  had  been  tried.  I  he.ird  the 
name  of  Francis  Higbec  as  being  in  the  neighborhood;  on  hearing  his  name  men- 
tioned, 1  immediately  rose  and  said,  "Captain  Smith,  you  are  a  justice  of  the  peace; 
1  have  heard  his  name  mentioned  ;  I  want  to  swear  mv  life  against  him."  I  was  in- 
tormed  that  word  was  immediately  sent  to  him  to  leave  the  place,  which  he  did. 

Brother  llichards  was  busy  during  this  time  attending  to  the  coroner's  inquest, 
and  to  the  removal  of  the  bodies,  and  making  arrangements  for  their  removal  from 
Cartilage  to  Nauvoo. 

When  we  had  a  little  leisure,  he  again  came  to  mo,  and  at  his  suggestion  I  was  re- 
moved to  Hamilton's  tavern;  I  felt  that  he  was  the  only  friend,  the  only  person,  that 
I  could  rely  upon  in  that  town.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  sufficient  persons  could 
be  touna  to  carry  me  to  the  tavern  ;  for  immediately  after  the  murder  a  great  fear 
tell  upon  all  the  people,  and  men,  women,  and  children  fled  with  great  precipitation, 
ieaving  nothing  nor  any  body  in  the  town  but  two  or  three  women  and  children,  and 
one  or  two  sick  persons. 

It  ^yas  with  great  difficulty  tliht  Brother  Richards  prevailed  upon  Mr.  Hamilton, 
hotel-keeper,  and  his  family,  to  stiiy;  they  would  not  until  Brother  Eichards  had 
given  a  solemn  promise  that  he  would  see  them  i)rotccted,  and  hence  I  was  looked 
upon  as  a  hostage.  Under  these  circumstances,  notwithstanding,  I  believe  they  were 
hostile  to  the  "  Mormons,"  and  were  glad  that  the  murder  had  taken  place,  vet  they 
did  not  actuaUy  participate  in  it  ;»and,  feeling  that  I  should  be  a  protection  to  them, 
they  staid.  ' 

The  whole  community  knew  that  a  dreadful  outrage  had  been  perpetrated  bv  those 
villains,  and  fearing  lest  the  citizens  of  Nauvoo,  as  they  jMsscsscd  the  power,"might 
have  a  disposition  to  visit  them  with  a  terrible  vengeance,  they  fled  in  the  wildest 
confusion.  And,  indeed,  it  was  with  very  great  difficulty  that  the  citizens  of  Nauvoo 
could  be  restrained  ;  a  horrid,  barbarous  murder  had  been  committed,  the  most  sol- 
emn pledge  violated,  and  that,  too,  while  the  victims  were,  contrarv  to  the  require- 
ments of  the  law,  ])utting  themselves  into  the  hands  of  tiie  governor  to  pacify  a  pop- 
ular excitement.  This  outrage  was  enhanced  by  the  reflection  that  we  were  able  to 
protect  ourselves  against  not  only  all  tlie  mob,  but  against  three  times  their  number 
and  that  of  the  governor's  troops  put  together.  These  were  exasperated  by  the  speech 
of  the  governor  m  town.  The  whole  events  were  so  faithless,  so  dastardlv,  so  mean, 
cowardly,  and  contemptible,  without  one  extenuating  circumstance,  that  it  would  not 
have  been  surprismg  if  the  citizens  of  Nauvoo  had  arisen  en  masae,  and  blotted  the 
wretches  out  of  existence.  The  citizens  of  Carthage  knew  thev  would  have  done  so 
under  such  circumstances,  and,  judging  us  by  themselves,  they  were  all  panic-stricken 
ana  tied  Colonel  Markham,  too,  after  his  expulsion  from  Carthage,  had  gone 
home,  related  the  circumstances  of  his  ejectment,  and  was  using  his  influence  to  get 
a  company  to  go  out.  Fearing  that  when  the  people  heard  that  their,  protihet  and 
patriarch  had  been  murdered  under  the  above  circumstances  tliey  might  act  rashly, 
and  knowing  that,  if  they  once  got  roused,  like  a  mighty  avalanche  thev  would  lay 
the  country  waste  before  them  and  take  a  terrible  vengeance— as  none  of  the  twelve 
were  in  Nauvoo,  and  no  one,  perhaps,  with  sufficient  influence  to  control  the  people, 
Dr.  Kichards,  after  consulting  me,  wrote  the  following  note,  fearing  that  my  family 
might  be  seriously  affected  by  the  news.  I  told  him  to  insert  that  I  was  slichtly 
wounded.  "    •' 


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THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


William  Richards's  Note  from  Carthage  Jail  to  Nauvoo,* 

"Carthage  Jail,  8  o'clock  6  mln.  P.M.,  Juno  27th,  1844. 
"  Joseph  and  Hyrum  are  dead.  Taylor  wounded,  not  very  badly.  I  am  well. 
Our  guard  was  forced,  as  we  believe,  by  a  band  of  MisBOurians  from  100  to  200.  The 
job  was  done  in  an  instant,  and  the  party  fled  toward  Nauvoo  instantly.  This  is  as 
I  believe  it.  The  citizens  hero  are  afraid  of  the  Mormons  attacking  them ;  I  prom- 
ise them  no.  W.  Ric:iabd8. 
"N.B. — The  citizens  promise  us  protection ;  alarm  guns  have  been  fired. 

"John  Taylor." 

I  remember  signing  my  name  as  quickly  as  possible,  lest  the  tremor  of  my  hand 
should  be  noticed,  and  their  fears  too  excited. 

A  messenger  was  dispatched  immediately  with  that  note,  but  he  was  intercepted 
by  the  governor,  who,  on  hearing  a  .annon  fired  at  Carthage,  which  was  to  be  the 
signal  for  tlie  murder,  immediately  fled  with  his  company,  and  fearing  that  the  citi- 
zens of  Nauvoo,  when  ap])rised  of  tho  horrible  outrage,  would  immediately  rise  and 
pursue,  he  turned  back  tb.e  messenger,  who  was  George  D.  Grant.  A  second  one 
was  sent,  who  was  treated  similarly ;  and  not  until  a  third  attempt  could  news  be  got 
to  Nauvoo. 

Samuel  II.  Smith,  brother  to  Joseph  and  Hyrum,  wos  the  first  brother  that  I  saw 
after  the  outrage ;  I  am  not  sure  whether  he  took  tho  news  or  not ;  he  lived  at  the 
time  at  Plymouth,  Hancock  County,  and  was  on  his  way  to  Carthage  to  see  his 
brothers,  when  ho  was  met  by  some  of  tho  troo]is,  or  rather  mob,  that  had  been  dis- 
missed by  the  governor,  and  who  were  on  their  way  home.  On  learning  that  he  was 
Joseph  Smith's  brother  they  sought  to  kill  him,  but  he  escaped,  and  fled  into  the 
woods,  where  he  was  chased  for  a  length  of  time  by  them ;  but,  after  fevere  fatigue, 
and  much  danger  and  excitement,  he  succeeded  in  escaping,  and  came  to  Carthoge. 
Ho  was  on  horseback  when  ho  arrived,  and  was  not  only  very  much  tired  with  tho 
fatigue  and  excitement  of  the  chase,  but  was  also  very  much  distressed  in  feelings  on 
account  of  the  death  of  his  brother.  These  things  produced  n  fever,  which  laid  tho 
foundation  for  his  death,  wJ.ich  took  place  on  the  30th  of  July.  Thus  another  of  tho 
brothers  fell  a  victim,  although  not  directly,  but  indirectly  to  this  infernal  mob. 

I  lay  from  about  five  o'clock  until  two  next  morning  without  having  my  wounds 
dressed,  as  there  wos  scarcely  any  help  of  any  kind  in  Curtilage,  and  Brother  Hich- 
nrds  was  busy  with  the  dead  bodies,  jiroparing  them  for  removal.  My  wife  Leonora 
started  early  tho  next  day,  having  had  some  little  trouble  in  getting  a  company  or  a 
physician  to  come  with  her ;  after  considerable  difldculty  she  succeeded  in  getting  an 
escort,  and  Dr.  Samuel  Uennet  came  along  with  her.  Soon  after  my  fnlher  and 
mother  arrived  from  Quakic,  near  which  place  they  had  a  farm  at  that  time,  and 
heariTig  of  the  trouble,  Iiahtcned  along. 

General  Demming,  Brigadier  General  of  tho  Hancock  County  Militio,  was  very 
much  of  a  gentleman,  and  showed  mo  every  courtesy,  and  Colonel  Jones  also  was 
very  solicitous  almut  my  welfare. 

I  was  called  U])on  by  several  gentlemen  of  Quincy  and  other  places,  among  whom 
was  Judge  lialslon,  ns  well  as  by  our  own  people,  and  n  medical  man  extracted  a  ball 
from  my  left  thigh  that  was  giving  mo  much  puin  :  it  loy  alK)ut  half  an  inch  deep, 
and  my  thigh  was  considerably  swollen.  Tho  doctor  oskcd  mo  if  I  would  lie  tied 
during  tho  oix-raiioii ;  I  told  him  no;  that  I  could  endure  tho  cutting  associated 
with  tlio  oi>eration  ns  well  without,  and  I  did  so ;  indeed,  so  great  was  the  pain  I  en- 
dured that  tho  cutting  was  rather  a  relief  than  otherwise. 

A  very  laughable  incident  occurred  at  the  time :  my  wife  Leonora  went  into  on 
adjoining  room  to  proy  for  me,  that  I  iriglit  bo  sustained  during  the  operation. 
VVhilo  on  her  knees  at  jirayer,  a  Mrs.  Bedell,  an  old  lady  of  the  Methodist  associa- 
tion, entered,  and,  patting  Mrs.  Toylor  on  her  back  with  her  hand,  said,  "There's  a 
good  lady,  pray  for  (Jod  to  forgive  your  gins;  pray  that  you  may  bo  converted,  and 
the  Lord  may  have  mercy  on  your  soul." 

Tho  scene  wus  so  ludicrous  that  Mrs.  Taylor  knew  not  whether  to  laugh  or  lie  an- 
gry.  Mrs.  Taylor  inlbrmed  me  that  Mr.  Hamilton,  tlio  father  of  tho  llol(^lton  who 
kept  tho  house,  rejoiced  at  tho  mnriler,  and  said  in  company  "that  it  was  done  up 
in  the  Iicst  powiblo  style,  and  showed  good  generalship;"  and  she  farther  lielicvod 
that  tlio  other  branches  of  the  fnniil  v  sanctioned  it.  Tlieso  wero  tho  aisociates  of  tho 
•  "  Dsi  Kes"^"  NOi  SS,  Nor.  ?!*-,  !*5T-,  p,  ?Pti 


APPENDIX  in. 


541 


old  lady  referred  to,  and  yet  slio  could  talk  of  conversion  and  saving  souls  in  the 
midst  of  blood  and  murder :  such  is  man  and  such  consbtency. 

The  ball  being  extracted  was  the  one  that  first  struck  me,  which  I  before  referred 
to ;  it  entered  on  the  outside  of  my  left  thigh,  about  five  inches  from  my  knee,  and, 
passing  rather  obliquely  toward  my  body,  had,  it  would  seem,  struck  the  bone,  for  it 
was  ilattened  out  nearly  as  thin  and  large  as  a  quarter  of  a  dollar. 

The  governor  passed  oa,  staying  at  Carthago  only  a  few  minutes,  and  he  did  not 
stop  until  ho  got  fifty  miles  from  Nauvoo.  There  had  been  various  opinions  about 
the  complicity  of  the  governor  in  the  murder,  some  supposing  that  he  knew  all  about 
it,  and  assisted  or  winked  at  its  execution.  It  is  somewhat  difHcult  to  form  a  correct 
opinion :  from  the  facts  presented  it  is  very  certain  that  things  looked  more  than  8U> 
picious  against  him. 

In  the  first  place,  he  positively  know  that  we  had  broken  no  law. 

Secondly.  Ho  knew  that  the  mob  had  not  only  pnssed  inflammatory  resolutions, 
threatening  extermination  to  the  "  Mormons,"  but  that  they  had  actually  assembled 
armed  mobs  and  commenced  liostilitics  against  us. 

Thirdly.  Ho  took  those  very  mobs  that  had  been  arrayed  against  us,  and  enrolled 
them  as  his  troops,  thus  legalizing  their  acts. 

Fourthly.  Ho  disbanded  the  Nauvoo  Legion,  which  had  never  violated  law,  and 
disarmed  them,  and  had  about  his  person  in  the  shape  of  militia  known  mobocrats 
and  violators  of  the  law. 

Fifthly.  He  requested  us  to  come  to  Carthage  without  arms,  promising  protection, 
and  then  refused  to  interfere  in  delivering  us  from  prison,  oJthough  Joseph  and  Hy- 
rum  were  put  there  contrary  to  law. 

Sixtiily.  Although  ho  refused  to  interfere  in  our  behalf,  yet,  when  Contain  Smith 
went  to  him  and  informed  him  that  the  persons  realised  to  come  out,  (le  told  him 
that  "he  had  a  command  and  knew  what  to  do,"  thus  sanctioning  the  use  offeree 
in  the  violation  of  law  when  opposed  to  us,  whereas  he  would  not  for  as  interpose  his 
executive  authority  to  free  us  from  being  incarcerated  contrary  to  law,  although  ho 
was  fully  informed  of  all  the  facts  of  the  case,  as  we  kept  him  posted  in  tl-.e  affaira 
all  the  time. 

Seventhly.  Ho  left  the  prisoners  in  Carthage  jail  contrary  to  his  plighted  faith. 

Eiglithiy.  Before  ho  went  ho  dismissed  all  the  troops  that  could  bo  relied  upon, 
as  well  as  many  of  the  mob,  and  left  us  in  diargo  of  the  "  Carthage  Grays,"  a  com- 
pany  that  lie  know  were  mobocratic,  our  most  bitter  enemies,  and  who  had  passed 
resolutions  to  exterminate  us,  and  wlio  had  been  placed  under  guard  by  General 
Dcniming  only  the  day  before. 

Nintlily.  Ho  was  informed  of  the  intended  murder,  both  before  ho  left  and  whilo 
on  the  road,  by  several  difl'ercnt  jiarties. 

Tentlily.  Wlien  the  cannon  was  fired  in  Cartlmgc,  signifving  that  the  deed  was 
done,  lie  immediately  took  up  his  lino  of  march  and  fii;d.  How  did  ho  know  that 
tliis  signal  portended  their  death  if  ho  was  not  in  tho  secret  ?  It  may  bo  said  some 
of  tho  party  told  him.  How  could  bo  bclievo  what  tho  jiarty  said  aoout  the  gun- 
BJgiiul  if  lie  could  not  l)eliovo  tlio  testimony  of  sovcrai  individuals  who  told  him  in 
positive  terms  about  tho  contemplated  murder? 

He  has,  I  believe,  stated  that  ho  left  tho  "Carthago  Grays"  there  because  lie  con- 
sidered tliui,  as  tiicir  town  was  contiguous  to  ours,  and  as  tho  responsibility  of  our 
safety  rested  solely  upon  them,  they  would  not  dare  sufier  any  indignity  to  Iwfall  us. 
-This  very  admisKum  shows  that  he  did  really  cxjiect  danger;  and  then  ho  knew  that 
these  people  had  published  to  tho  world  that  they  would  exterminate  us,  and  his 
caving  us  in  thnir  hands  and  talking  of  their  responsibilities  was  liko  leaving  a 
amb  m  chnrgo  of  a  wolf,  and  trusting  to  its  humanity  and  honor  for  its  safo-kocD- 
ing.  "^ 

It  is  said,  again,  thnt  ho  would  not  have  gone  to  Nauvoo,  and  thus  placed  himself 
in  tho  hands  of  tho  "  Mormons,"  if  ho  had  anticipated  any  such  event,  as  he  would 
be  exposed  to  their  wrath.  To  this  it  mav  Iw  answered 'that  tho  "Mormons"  did 
not  know  their  signals,  whilo  ho  did  ;  and  they  were  als;.  known  in  Wnr<>nw  as  well 
as  in  (illu-r  places;  and  as  soon  as  tho  gun  was  fired,  a  merchant  of  Warsaw  jnmp- 
eil  upon  his  horse  and  rode  directly  to  Qiilnry,  uud  reported  "Joseph  and  liyrum 
killed,  nnd  those  who  were  with  them  in  jail."  lie  reported  further  "that  they  were 
attempting  to  break  jail,  and  were  nil  killed  by  tho  guard."    This  was  their  story  • 

it  was  anticipated  to  kill  nil.  nnj  the  S'.m  was  to  be  the  siirna!  that  ii:r.  :!:-.:!;! i  -  -.1 

complished.     This  was  known  In  Warsaw.     Tho  governor  also  know  it  aiid^'flod] 


s\    J 


hitt 


542 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


and  he  could  really  be  in  no  danger  in  Nauvoo,  for  the  Mormons  did  not  know  it 

and  he  had  plenty  of  time  to  escape,  which  he  did,  ' 

It  IS  said  that  he  made  all  his  officers  promise  solemnly  that  they  would  help  him 

nffi^r  ,   ,  ^^  ?"'""  i  "",'  """^  """  "'^y  °°*  ^-    ^^'  ""^y  ^''^>  son'e  of  these  same 
omcers  helped  to  murder  them. 

The  strongest  argument  in  the  governor's  favor,  and  one  that  would  '.car  more 
weight  with  us  than  all  the  rest  put  together,  would  be  that  he  could  not  believe  them 
capftble  of  such  atrocity ;  and,  thinking  that  their  talk  and  threatenings  were  a  mere 
cbuuition  ot  feeling,  a  kind  of  braggadocio,  and  that  there  was  enough  of  good  moral 
leelmg  to  control  the  more  violent  passions,  he  trusted  to  their  faith.  There  is  in- 
deed, a  degree  of  plausibility  about  this,  but  when  we  put  it  in  juxtaposition  to' the 
amount  of  evidence  that  he  was  in  possession  of  it  weighs  very  little.  lie  had  noth- 
ing to  inspire  confldenco  in  them,  and  every  thing  to  mak  i.'m  mistrust  them  Be- 
sides, why  his  broken  faith?  why  his  disregard  of  what  was  told  him  by  several  par- 
ties ?  Again,  if  he  knew  not  the  plan,  how  did  he  understand  the  signal  ?  Wh v  so 
oblivious  to  every  thing  pertaining  to  the  ''lAIormon"  interest,  and  so  alive  and  in- 
terested about  the  mobocrats?  At  any  rate,  be  this  as  it  may,  ho  stands  responsible 
for  their  blood,  and  it  is  dripping  ou  his  garments.  If  it  had  not  been  for  his  prom- 
ises of  i.rotect.on  they  would  have  protected  themselves;  it  was  plighted  faith  that 
led  them  to  the  slaughter ;  and,  to  make  the  best  of  it,  it  was  a  breach  of  that  fuith 
ana  a  non-fulfillment  of  that  promise,  after  rcpcated  warnings,  that  led  to  their  death 

Having  siud  so  much,  I  must  leave  the  governor  with  my  readers  and  with  his 
Ood.  Justice,  I  conceive,  demanded  this  much,  and  truth  could  not  bo  told  with 
less;  ns  I  have  said  before,  my  oi)inion  is  that  the  governor  would  not  have  iilanned 

nr>fn;°l"'[  i":    M  ^  ''"'  T^  «uffl"ent  energy  to  resist  popular  opinion,  even  if  that 
opinion  led  to  blood  and  death.  f         . 

^M^'"^  rumored  that  a  strong  political  party,  numbering  in  its  ranks  many  of  the 
prominent  men  of  the  nation,  were  engaged  in  a  jilot  for  the  overthrow  of  Joseph 
bmith  and  that  tic  governor  was  of  this  party,  and  Sharp,  Williams,  Captain  Smith, 
and  others,  were  his  accomplices,  but  whether  this  was  the  case  or  not  I  don't  know 
It  is  very  certain  that  a  strong  political  feeling  existed  against  Joseph  Smith,  and  I 
have  reason  to  believe  that  his  letters  to  Henry  Clay  were  made  use  of  by  political 
parties  opposed  to  Mr.  Clay,  and  were  the  means  of  that  statesman's  defeat.  Yet  if 
such  a  combination  as  the  one  referred  to  existed,  I  am  not  apprised  of  it  ' 

While  I  lay  at  Carthage,  previous  to  Mrs.  Tnvlor's  arrival,  a  pretty  good  sort  of  a 
Iran,  who  was  lame  of  a  leg,  waited  upon  me,  and  sat  up  at  night  with  me;  after 
Mrs.  laylor,  my  mother  and  others  waited  upon  me. 

Many  friends  called  uj^on  mo,  among  whom  were  Kichard  Ballantvne,  Elizabeth 
laylor,  several  of  the  Teikins  family,  and  a  number  of  the  brethren  from  Macedonia 
and  La  Harpe.  Besides  these,  many  strangers  from  Qu  luv,  some  of  whom  express- 
ed indignant  teelmgs  against  the  mob  and  sympathy  for  myself.  Brother  Alexander 
Williams  called  upon  me,  who  suspected  tliat  they  had  some  designs  in  keeping  me 
there,  and  stated  "that  ho  had  at  a  given  point  in  some  woods  fifty  men,  and  tliat 
if  I  would  say  the  word  ho  would  raiso  other  fifty,  and  fetch  mo  out  of  there."  I 
thanked  him,  but  told  him  I  ihoiigh^  there  was  no  need.  However,  it  would  seem 
that  1  was  in  some  danger ;  for  Colonel  .Jones,  before  referred  to,  when  absent  from 
nie,  left  two  loaded  pistols  on  flio  tabic  in  case  of  an  attack,  and  some  time  after- 
ward, when  I  had  recovered  and  was  publishi|jg  the  affair,  a  lawyer,  Mr.  Backman, 
stated  that  ho  had  pn-vonted  a  man  by  tho  name  of  Jackson,  before  refci  letl  to,  from 
ascending  the  stairs,  who  was  coming  with  a  design  to  murder  me,  and  that  now  ho 
wa.1  sorry  ho  had  not  let  him  do  tho  deed. 

There  were  others,  also,  of  whom  I  heard  that  said  I  ought  to  bo  killed,  and  they 
would  do  it,  but  that  it  was  too  damned  cowardly  to  shoot  a  wounded  man ;  and 
thus,  by  the  chivalry  of  murderers,  I  was  prevented  from  being  a  second  time  muti- 
lated or  killed.  Many  of  tho  mob,  too,  came  around  and  treated  mo  with  ap|iarciit 
resijcct,  and  the  ofBcers  and  people  generally  looked  upon  mo  as  n  hostage,  and  fear- 
ed that  my  removal  would  be  the  signal  for  the  rising  of  the  Mormons. 

I  do  not  remcmlx-r  fiie  time  that  I  staid  there,  but  I  think  three  or  four  days  after 
the  murder,  when  Brother  Marks  with  a  carriage.  Brother  James  AKlred  with  a  wag- 
on, Dr.  Klls,  and  a  number  of  others  on  horsi-back,  came  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
me  to  Nanvoo.  I  was  very  weak  at  the  time,  occasioned  by  the  loss  of  blood  and 
the  great  <lischarge  of  my  wounds,  so  that  when  Mrs.  Taylor  asked  me  if  I  couhl  talk 
I  could  barely  wliisiwr  no.     Quito  a  discussion  arose  (is  to  the  propriety  of  my  ro- 


APPENDIX  m. 


543 


moval,  the  physicians  and  people  of  Carthage  protesting  that  it  would  be  mv  death 
while  my  friends  were  anxious  for  my  removal  if  possible  ^  ' 

I  suppose  the  former  wore  actuated  by  the  above-named  desire  to  keen  me      Col- 
onel Jones  was,  I  bcheve,  sincere ;  ho  has  acted  as  a  friend  all  the  time,  and  he  Told 

JIoLvf^  "■■  "\Z^^''  '"^  ^'r'"^''  T  "°'  '"^  eo,  for  he  did  not  believe  I  ha  t  eng  h 
enough  to  reach  Nauvoo.  It  was  finally  agreed,  however,  that  I  should  co  but  as 
It  was  thought  that  I  could  not  stand  riding  in  a  wagon  or^arriage  they  Spared  a 
h  ter  for  me  ;  I  was  carried  down  stairs  and  put  upon  it.  A  number  of  n  en  a'sist 
ed  to  carry  mo,  some  of  whom  had  been  engaged  in  the  mob.  As  l^L  Ct 
S  S  fre^h  aT    ''""  ""'  ^'-ngthened,  so  that  I  could  talk ;  Tsuprose  fhe 

h.YlTJ':^^"'^  f  "^r  *,v°  °''*''"^°  °f  *'>°  *°^'"  I  remembered  some  woods  that  we 
Had  to  go  tiirough,  and  telling  a  person  near  to  call  for  Dr.  Ells,  who  was  ridinc  a 
very  good  horse,  I  said,  "  Doctor,  I  perceive  that  the  people  a/e  getting  fat  gued 
with  carrying  me;  a  number  of  Mormons  live  about  two  or  three  miles  from  here 
near  our  route ;  will  you  ride  to  their  settlement  as  quietly  as  possible,  and  have 

h-Wnr"  ?r  """''  "'        ■"''  '''''"''^  °«'°»  <"  g'v'l'T  immediately.    M'y  object  in 
this  was  to  obtain  protection  in  case  of  an  attack,  rather  than  to  obtain  helpto  car^y 

h  J^ninT"  fi°T  fT  "r/™"*  CJarthago  made  one  excuse  after  another,  until  they 

rarrvfnJl^  1     "'    '^'"f  '°  «"'  '"^  °^  *''<='"•      ^  <■"""'!  '^'^^  ^^^  t^^^ping  of  those 

himfoml  nf  rt"'"!  "°''^"' P-*'"!  »"d  "^  «l«iKl>  was  produced  and  attached  to  the 
5^  fhohnf    M     'P'^',™'^'  A''*'"'';''  '"'S°"'  "^  ^^  Vhiccd  upon  it,  and  I  propped  up 

M  the  sloi.I.  '•  \''^^°'  T^"  '"' '  ™'^'  "W''y'"«  '^°  '^"'^  '"''-''^'^'^  to  ^y  wounds^ 
As  the  sleigh  was  dragged  over  the  grass  on  the  prairie,  which  was  quite  tall.ii 
moved  very  easily  and  gave  me  very  little  pain.  *  ' 

n,.^T,!nm  Jhf* -7'''"". *!)■''  °-  ''-^  "'l'^  "^  ^""^°°  t''"  ^^^tJ"-«'i  commenced  to  meet 
me  from  the  city,  and  they  increased  in  number  as  we  drew  nearer,  until  there  wm 
a  very  largo  company  of  people  of  r.I-  „  es  and  both  sexes,  principally,  howe7e? 

For  some  time  tliere  had  been  almost  incessant  rain,  so  that  in  many  low  places  in 
tho  prairie  it  was  from  one  to  three  feet  deep  in  water,  and  at  such  dIuccs  the  broth 
rcn  whom  we  met  took  hold  of  the  sleigh,  lifted  it,  and  carried  it  over  the  water  •  and" 
when  we  arrived  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  city,  where  the  road,  were  excessively 
muddy  and  Ijad,  the  brethren  tore  down  the  fences,  and  wo  inissed  through  the  fields 

Never  shall  Iiorgct  the  diijercnco  of  feeling  that  I  experienced  between  tho  p.aco 
that  I  had  left  and  the  one  that  I  had  now  arrived  at.  I  had  left  a  lot  of  i-eckloss 
bloodthirsty  murderers,  and  hnd  como  to  the  City  of  the  Saints,  the  people  of  the  liv! 
mg  God ;  fnonds  of  truth  and  righteousness,  thousands  of  whom  stood  there  with 
warm  true  hearts  to  offer  their  friendshij,  and  services,  and  to  welcome  my  return 
It  18  true  It  was  a  pamful  scene,  and  brought  sorrowful  remembrances  to  mind  but 
to  me  It  cause.!  a  tiinll  of  joy  to  find  myself  once  more  in  the  bosom  of  mv  friend" 
and  to  meet  with  tho  -.•ordial  wcleomo  of  true,  honest  hearts.  What  was  very  rcl 
miirkable,  I  fmiiid  mysolt  very  much  better  after  my  an-ival  at  Nauvoo  tlian  I  was 
when  I  started  on  my  journey,  although  I  hud  traveled  eighteen  miles 

,r.n,i  ^"i?\r -I' '".  'T'l  ''',""'*^°  '''"'  ^^""'"'K.  I  t"l<l  ^trs.  Taylor  that  if  she  could 
nirso  "'"•''"^'■^^' ''°  ''"'1  my  1"»-8C  »nJ  watch,  and  they  wo-ild  find  money  in  my 

Previous  to  the  doctor  leaving  Carthago,  I  told  him  that  he  had  better  take  mv 
purse  an.l  watch,  for  I  was  afraid  the  i,co,.le  «ould  steal  them.  The  doc  or  had  t^^ 
en  my  pantaloons'  po.ket  and  put  the  watch  in  it  with  tho  purse,  cut  ,  V  tS  pock-" 
et,  and  tied  a  string  round  the  top  ;  it  was  in  this  position  when  brm.ght  l.o  no  Mv 
fanny,  however  were  not  a  little  startled  to  find  that  my  watch  h.ul  been  struck  whS 
a  ball.  I  sent  lor  my  vest,  and,  upon  examination,  it  was  found  that  there  w  s  a  c utT 
m  ,t  with  a  kn.fo,  ,,  ,ho  vest  pocket  which  had  contained  my  watch.  lu  the  iK.ckct 
ho  fraKmcnts  of  tl...  glass  were  found  literally  ground  to  ,,owder.  It  then  occurred 
to  me  that  a  bal  had  struck  mo  at  the  time  I  felt  mvself  falling  out  of  1,"  win  ow 
and  that  it  wtus  this  for.-o  tlmt  threw  me  inside.  I  hml  often  remark.^  to  Mrl  ft 
l..r  the  smgu  ar  fact  offindiug  myself  inside  tho  room,  when  I  felt  a  moment  before 
after  being  shot,  that  I  was  falling  out,  and  I  never  could  account  for  iSl  then  • 
but  here  the  thing  was  fully  elucidate,!,  and  was  rendered  plain  to  mv  mind.  I  wa^ 
nideed  falling  out,  wlu-u  some  vi  lain  nhned  at  my  heart.  The  liall  stVuck  mv  watch, 
and  forced  me  back ;  if  i  had  fallen  out  I  slionl.l  n««urcdl"  i-av.  Ik-,,  k=  K1  if  not 


fU 


iffi 


644 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


by  the  fall,  by  those  around,  and  this  ball,  intended  to  dispatch  mc,  was  turned  by  an 
oven-uhng  1  rovidenee  into  a  messenger  of  mercy,  and  saved  my  life.  I  shall  lever 
torgct  the  leehngs  of  gratitude  that  I  then  experienced  toward  my  heavenly  Fa' her  • 
the  wliolc  scene  was  vividly  portrayed  before  me,  and  my  heart  melted  before  the 
J^ord.  1  telt  that  the  Lord  had  preserved  me  by  a  special  act  of  mercy;  that  my  time 
had  not  yet  come,  and  that  I  had  still  a  work  to  perform  upon  the  earth. 

(Signed),  Jqhn  Taylok. 

NOTES. 

In  addition  to  the  above  I  give  the  following : 

Dr.  Bernhiscl  informed  me  that  Joseph,  looking  him  full  in  the  face,  and  as  sol- 
emn as  eternity,  said,  "I  am  going  as  a  lamb  to  the  slaughter,  but  I  am  as  calm  as 
a  summer's  morning.  I  have  a  conscience  void  of  otfense  toward  God  and  man  " 
I  heard  him  state,  in  reply  to  an  interrogatory,  made  either  by  myself  or  some  one 
in  my  hearing,  in  relation  to  the  best  course  to  pursue,  "I  am  not  now  acting  ac- 
cording to  my  judgment;  others  must  counsel,  and  not  me,  for  the  present,"  or  in 
words  to  the  same  effect. 

The  governor's  remarks  about  the  press  may  be  partially  correct,  so  far  as  the 
legal  technicality  wa.  concerned,  and  the  order  of  administering  law.  The  proper 
way  would  perhaps  have  been  for  the  City  Council  to  have  passed  a  law  in  regard 
to  the  removal  of  nuisances,  and  then  for  the  Municipal  Court  to  have  ordered  it  to 
bo  abated  on  complain  \  Be  ths  as  it  may,  it  was  only  a  variation  in  form,  not  in 
tact,  for  the  Municipal  Oourt  formed  part  of  the  City  Council,  and  all  voted ;  and 
turthcrmorc,  some  time  after  the  murder,  Governor  Ford  told  me  that  the  press  ought 
to  have  been  removed,  but  that  it  was  bad  policy  to  remove  it  as  we  did ;  that  if  wo 
had  only  let  a  mob  do  it,  instead  of  using  the  law,  wc  could  have  done  it  without 
diftculty,  and  no  one  would  have  been  imjilicatcd.  Thus  the  governor,  who  would 
have  winked  at  the  proceedings  of  a  mob,  lent  his  aid  to,  or  winked  at,  the  proceed- 
ings of  mob  violence  in  the  assassination  of  Joseph  and  llyrum  Smith,  for  removing 
a  nuisance  according  to  law,  because  of  an  alleged  informality  in  the  legal  proceed- 
ings or  a  legal  technicality. 

I  must  hero  stale  that  I  do  not  believe  Governor  Ford  would  have  jilanned  the 
mur  ler  of  Joseph  and  Ilyrum  Smith;  but,  being  a  man  that  courted  popular  opin- 
ion, lie  hud  not  tlic  lirmncss  to  withstand  the  mob,  even  when  that  mob  were  seeking 
to  imbrue  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  innocence ;  he  lent  himself  to  their  designs 
and  thus  Lecamc  a  partaker  of  their  evil  deeds.  ' 

I  will  ilhistrato  this  vexed  question  with  the  following  official  paper,  which  ap- 
peared in  the  "Descie't  News,"  No.  30;  r  i 

"Two  of  the  brethren  arrived  this  evening  (Juno  13th,  1844),  from  Carthage,  and 
said  that  al)out  300  mobbers  were  assembled  there,  with  the  avowed  intention  of 
coming  against  Nauvoo.  Also  that  Hamilton  was  paying  a  dollar  per  bushel  for 
corn  to  feed  their  animals." 

The  fddowing  was  published  in  the  "Warsaw  Signal  Office ;  I  insert  it  as  a  Bpoci- 
mcn  of  the  unparalleled  corruption  and  diabolical  falsehood  of  which  the  human  race 
has  become  capable  in  this  generation  : 

"  At  a  mass  meeting  of  the  citizcnH  of  Hancock  County,  convened  nt  Carthago  on 
the  llth  day  of  .lune,  1844,  Mr.  Knox  was  ajipointed 'I'resident,  John  Doty  and 
Lewis  F.  Evans,  Vice-Presidents,  and  William  Y.  Head,  Secretary. 

"Henry  Stephens,  Esq.,  ])rcsented  the  following  resolutions,  pa'ssed  at  a  meeting 
of  the  citizens  of  Warsaw,  and  urged  the  adoption  of  them  us  the  sense  of  this  meet- 
ing: 

"PUKAMm-E  AND  ISKSOIXTIONS. 

"■WiiF.nEAB  Information  has  reached  us,  at)out  which  there  can  bo  no  question, 
that  the  authorities  of  Nauvoo  did  recently  jtass  an  ordinance  declaring  a  printing- 
press  and  newspajwr  published  by  the  o))])onents  of  the  I'rophct  a  nuisance,  and  in 
jairsuance  thereof  did  direct  the  marshal  of  the  city  and  his  adherents  to  enter  by 
force  the  liuilding  from  whence  the  \tn\tcr  was  issued,  and  violently  (if  necessary)  to 
take  possession  of  the  press  and  printing  materials,  and  thereafter  to  bum  and'  de- 
stroy the  same;  and  whereas,  in  pursuance  of  said  ordinance,  the  marshal  and  his 
adherents,  together  with  a  mob  of  Mormons,  did,  after  sunset  on  the  evening  of  the 
10th  inst.,  violently  enter  said  building  in  a  tumultuous  manner,  burn  and  destroy 
the  press  and  other  materials  found  on  the  premises ; 


APPENDIX  in. 


545 


"And  whereas  Hyrum  Smith  did,  in  presence  of  the  City  Council  and  the  citizens 
of  Nauvoo,  offer  a  reward  for  the  destruction  of  the  printing-press  and  materials  of 
the    Warsaw  Signal,'  a  newspaper  also  opposed  to  his  interest  • 

"  And  whereas  the  liberty  of  the  press  is  one  of  the  cardinal  'principles  of  our  gov- 
ernment,  firmly  guaranteed  by  the  several  Constitutions  of  the  states  as  well  as  the 
United  States ; 

"And  whereas  Hyrum  Smith  has  within  the  last  week  publicly  threatened  the 
»^u°"^"^°"  "'^^'^^'^  citizens,  Thos.  C.  Sharp,  the  editor  of  the  'Signal-' 
Therefore  be  it  solemnly  liesolved  by  the  citizens  of  Warsaw  in  public' meetinit 
assembled,  '^  ° 

"That  we  view  the  recent  ordinance  of  the  city  of  Nauvoo,  and  the  proceedings 
thereunder,  as  an  outrage  of  an  alarming  character,  revolutionary  and  tyrannical  in 
Its  tendency,  and,  being  under  color  of  law,  as  calculated  to  subvert  and  destroy  in 
the  minds  of  the  community  all  reliance  on  the  law. 

y  Resolved,  That  as  a  community  we  feel  anxious,  when  possible,  to  redress  our 
grievances  by  legal  remedies ;  but  the  time  has  now  arrived  when  the  law  has  ceased 
to  be  a  protection  to  our  lives  and  property;  a  mob  at  Nauvoo,  under  a  city  ordi- 
nance,  has  violated  the  highest  privilege  in  our  government,  and  to  seek  redress  in 
the  ordinary  mode  would  be  utterly  ineffectual. 

"liesolved,  That  the  public  threat  made  in  the  council  of  the  city  not  only  to  de- 
stroy our  pnnting-press,  but  to  take  the  life  of  its  editor,  is  sufficient,  in  connection 
with  the  recent  outrage,  to  command  the  efforts  and  the  services  of  every  good  citi- 
zen to  put  an  immediate  stop  to  the  career  of  the  mad  Prophet  and  his  demoniac 
coaajutors.  We  must  not  only  defend  ourselves  from  danger,  but  wc  must  resolutely 
carry  the  war  into  the  enemy's  camp.  We  do  therefore  declare  that  we  will  sustain 
our  press  and  the  editor  at  all  hazards.  Tliat  wc  will  take  full  vengeance— terrible 
vengeance,  should  the  lives  of  any  of  our  citizens  be  lost  in  the  effort.  That  wo  hold 
ourselves  at  all  times  in  readiness  to  co-operate  with  our  fellow-citizens  in  this  state, 
Missouri,  and  Iowa,  to  exterminate— vriEnzY  exterminate,  the  wicked  and  abomil 
nable  Mormon  leaders,  the  authors  of  our  troubles. 

"Resolved,  That  a  committee  of  five  be  appointed  forthwith  to  notify  all  persons 
in  our  township  suspected  of  being  the  tools  of  the  Prop'  et  to  leave  immediately  on 
pain  of  INSTANT  VENGEANCE.  And  WC  do  rccommcnd  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent 
townships  to  do  the  same,  hereby  pledging  ourselves  to  render  all  the  assistance  tliev 
may  require.  ' 

"Resolved,  That  the  time,  in  our  opinion,  has  arrived  when  the  adherents  of  Smith. 
as  a  body,  should  be  driven  from  the  surrounding  settlements  into  Nauvoo;  that  the 
1  rophet  ard  his  miscreant  adherents  should  then  be  demanded  at  their  hands,  and 
It  no  surrendered,  a  war  of  extermination  should  be  waged,  to  the  entire  de- 
struction, if  necessary  for  our  protection,  of  his  adherents.  And  we  do  hereby  rec- 
ommend thw  resolution  to  the  consideration  of  the  several  townships,  to  the  Mass 
Convention  to  bo  held  at  Carthage,  hereby  pledging  ourselves  to  aid  to  the  utmost 
the  complete  consummation  of  the  object  in  view,  that  we  may  thereby  be  utterly  re- 
Ueved  of  tlio  alarm,  anxiety,  and  trouble  to  which  we  are  now  subjected. 

Resolved,  That  every  citizen  arm  himself,  to  be  prepared  to  sustain  the  resolu- 
tions herein  contained, 

"Mr.  Roosevelt  rose  and  made  a  brief  but  eloquent  speech,  and  called  upon  the 
citizens  throughout  the  country  to  render  efficient  aid  in  carrying  out  the  spirit  of 
the  resolutions.  Mr.  Roosevelt  then  moved  that  a  committee  of  seven  be  appointed 
by  the  chair  to  draft  resolutions  expressive  of  our  action  in  future 

•  Mr.  Catlin  moved  to  amend  the  motion  of  Mr.  Roosevelt  so  that  the  committee 
should  consist  of  one  from  each  precinct;  which  motion,  as  amended,  was  adopted. 
Ihc  chair  then  appointed  the  following  as  said  committee:  Colonel  Levi  Wil- 
hams.  Rocky  Run  Precinct;  Joel  Catlin,  Augusta;  Samuel  Williams,  Carthage; 
Ehsha  Worrell,  Chili;  Captain  Maddison,  St.  Mary's;  John  M.  Ferris,  Founuin 
Green;  James  Rice,  Pilot  Grove;  John  Cams,  Bear  Creek;  C.  L.  Ilicbee  Nau- 
voo ;  (jcorgo  Robinson,  La  Ilarpo ;  and  George  Rockwell,  Warsaw 

"On  motion  of  Mr.  Sympson,  Walter  Bagby,  Esq,  was  requested  to  address  the 
meeting  during  the  absence  of  the  committee.  Ho  spoke  long  and  eloquently  npon 
the  cause  of  our  grieyances,  and  expressed  his  belief  that  the  time  was  now  at  hand 
when  wo  wore  individually  and  collectively  called  upon  to  repel  the  innovations  upon 
our  liberties,  and  suggested  that  points  be  designated  as  places  of  encampment  at 
which  to  rendezvous  our  forces,  that  wo  may  bo  ready,  when  called  upon,  for  efficient 
actiun. 

Mm 


M 


II 


>  s, 


•  SJ 


ft!'' 


646 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


nn,o^f  "n^.    ?• '    .?     -^^^  PT°".'  ^^'^  ^''°*  "^'^^  "i"  officers  to  Nauvoo  for  the  pnr- 
pose  of  arresting  the  rioters,  having  just  arrived,  came  into  the  meeting,  and  recorJ 
ed  the  result  of  their  proceedings,  which  was,  that  the  persons  charged  in  thrwrfte 
tTo  MSf"Tp '^'  ^*  'f  ^?  'i"™  *^^  °«''=«^'«  ^'''"^'  "n^^rit  of  habeas  co.l^from 
Z  So';r-L?ZLlv'Btst:;it^'^'  '''  ^°""^^°^  ^°'-'  -"^'^^  -'^-'^  "P- 

fbr  ISKritiS^.S^tSSnSJw^S!''"''^  ^"  ""''"^'^  "  ^'-  ^''^ 
Irancis  M.  Higbee  was  now  loudly  called  for.    He  stated  his  nersonal '  nowl 

M  .souri  and  this  state,  which  had  been  characterized  by  the  darkest  and  most  dia- 
bolical deeds  which  had  ever  disgraced  humanity.  uarstsi  ana  most  dia- 

«J-T'^°r*'°™'°*"'^°  appointed  to  draft  resolutions  brought  in  the  followins  renort 
Which,  after  some  considerable  discussion,  was  unanimously  adopted:  ^  ^^ 
n,i,l  Jhnf'T  *^';?*"»•  ??«'S^'l  7"»  the  execution  of  a  writ  against  Joseph  Smith 
and  others  for  riot  in  the  County  of  Hancock,  which  said  writ  said  officer  has Mrved 
mCl^^'^nf'" 'm  ""v  '^'^'T'r'^  ^vhereas  said  Smith  and  others  reSse  to  obey^hJ 
for^he  saiS  nffi n  '  "• '^  ""^"'"^^  I"  '^'  °P'"'°°  ''f 'his  meeting,  it  is  impos^sibll 
whereas  ffif^fL-  ••■"'' V.J!°''°  «f  sufficient  strength  to  execute  said  wrh;  and 
Whereas  t  is  the  opinion  of  this  meeting  that  the  riot  is  still  progressing  and  that 
cir  umst„'LT''';T'^  '"''  determined  on,  it  is  the  opinion  of  this^meet"ng  that  the 

"  Sw  ed  t£^"1'  "Tr  *'!•"  '"'^ITo^'tJo"  of  executive  power:  Therefore 
such  inteSsW^ti         deputation  of  two  discreet  men  bo  sent  to  Springfield  to  solicit 

.SJl'^'  ^^^°i'-'f'^'  That  said  deputation  be  furnished  with  a  certified  copy  of  the 
resolution  and  be  authorized  to  obtain  evidence  by  affidavit  and  othenvise  in  Regard 
to  the  violence  which  has  already  been  committed  and  is  still  farther  meditated.' 
retard  ;„™    T  """T  ''"l^^P'-essed  his  wish  that  the  above  resolutions  would  not 
retard  our  operations,  but  that  we  would  each  one  arm  and  equip  ourselves  forth- 

accSation"^"*'""'  ^"''"^  at  Warsaw  were  again  read  by  Dr.  Bams,  and  passed  by 
''On  motion  of  A.  Sympson,  Esq.,  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Bagby,  appointing  places 

LanrgTI^rirardYaXe.'''  ^'^  '^"^"^^'  '^""'"^^'  ^'''="  '^''^"^'  '^'^^ 
tee't?  h.1!r'!r'  ^'  ^\?^''''"'![  »nd  Walter  Bagby,  Esqrs.,  were  appointed  a  commit- 
i^n,  irin„  ^  ••csolutions  adopted  by  this  meeting  to  his  exceUency  the  governor, 
requiring  his  executive  interposition.  ^i"ui, 

point^^d. '"°''°°  "'^ '''  "■  ^''^'■""'"'  '^  ^^^'^^  Corresponding  Committee  was  ap- 

'' Ordered,  That  J.  H.  Sherman,  II.  T.  Wilson,  Chauncy  Robinson,  Wm.  S.  Free- 

s^k" 'comSe       "'""'        ^-  "'^'''''  ^^™''"  ^''''''''''  """^  ^'^P''^"  "•  'S-1^'  be 

"  On  motion  of  George  Rockwell, 
to  oW  H!!f''ffl'""  .''""^tables  in  the  different  precincts  hold  themselves  in  readiness 
the  posse  '"  possesion  of  the  writs,  whenever  called  upon,  in  summoning 

"  On  motion,  the  meetinb'  adjourned. 

"John  Knox,  President 

"John  Doty, 

«<r 


'John  Doty,  i   ,..     _,     ., 

'Lewis  F.Evans,    i  Vicc-PrcsidentB. 


"W.Y.  Head,  Secretary." 

The  following  will  conclude  the  "Expositor  Question:" 

«<  c-       T       •.  .1.  ...»  "  Nnuvoo,  June  14th.  1844 

rAm„,^'7V'^      ^°"   ^^  morning  briefly  to  inform  you  of  the  facts  relative  to  the 
reino  al  of  the  press  and  fixtures  of  the  '  Nauvoo  Exi)o8itor'  as  a  nuisance 

1  he  8th  and  10th  in-tr...t  were  sjient  by  the  City  Council  of  Nauvoo  in  receivinc 
tesimony  concerning  the  character  of  the  'Exixjsitor.'and  the  character  and  designs 
Ot  the  proprii'tors.  ° 

''In  the  investigation  it  appeared  evident  to  the  Council  that  the  proprietors  were 
a  set  ot  unprincipled,  lawless  debauchees,  counterfeiters,  bogus-makers   camblors 
peace-disturbers,  and  that  the  grand  object  of  said  proprietors  wT  to  dcs?r^y  ou^ 


APPENDIX  IV. 


547 


rP^,.  „Hnn.  ?  ^^  f  and  Chartered  privileges;  to  overthrow  all  good  and  wholesome 
regulations  m  society;  to  strengthen  themselves  against  the  municipality:  to  fortify 

lous  rights  and  privileges  by  libels,  slanders,  falsehoods,  perjury,  etc.  and  sticking  at 

inrlT.  th  1^'"  ^P^'-  ''"i^'u'y  '"J""""'  "^  "  ^"^'^^^  °f  defamaiion,  tending  to 

corrupt   ho  morals,  and  disturb  the  peace,  tranquillity,  and  happiness  of  the  whole 
community,  and  especially  that  of  Nauvoo.         ^        ■"  i"!      «>  "•  i"o  whoio 

"After  a  long  and  patient  investigation  of  the  character  of  the  'Expositor.'  and 
the  characters  and  designs  of  its  proprietors,  the  Constitution,  the  Charter  (see  Ad- 
denda to  Nauvoo  Charter  from  the  Springfield  Charter,  sec.  7),  and  all  the  best  au- 
thorities on  the  subject  (see  Blackstone,  iii.,  5,  and  n.,  etc.,  etc.),  the  City  Council  de- 
cided  that  It  was  necessary  for  the  'peace,  benefit,  good  order,  and  regulations'  of 
saicl  city,_  and  for  the  protection  of  property,'  and  for  'the  happiness  and  prosperity 
of  the  citizens  of  Nauvoo,'  that  said  'Expositor'  should  be  removed;  and  declaring 
saia  ii-xpositor  a  nuisance,  ordered  the  mayor  to  cause  them  to  be  removed  without 
aelay,  which  order  was  committed  to  the  marshal  by  due  process,  and  by  him  exe- 
cuted the  same  day,  by  removing  the  paper,  press,  and  fixtures  into  the  streets,  and 
Durning  the  same;  all  which  was  done  without  riot,  noise,  tumult,  or  confusion,  as 
has  already  been  proved  before  the  municipality  of  the  city;  and  the  particulare  of 
tne^whole  transaction  may  be  expected  in  our  next  'Nauvoo  Neighbor.' 

I  send  you  this  hasty  sketch  that  your  excellency  may  be  aware  of  the  lyine  re- 
C„  "'  ''f.no^v.  lacing  circulated  by  our  enemies,  that  there  has  been  a  '  mob  at 
A^awtoo,  and  'bbod  and  thunder,'  and 'staearing  that  two  men  were  killed,'  etc.,  etc.,  as 
h„,  Wn  "i""'  ^^'•°f ' '''^  false-false  as  Satan  himself  could  invent,  and  that  nothing 

Sndnlo,  of  ?r„'n  l''"""  1^"'  7^'"'  ^""t  ^°'''  *°  P^^f''"^'  accordance  with  the  strictest 
principles  of  law  and  good  ordcv  on  the  part  of  the  authorities  of  this  city ;  and  if 
your  excellency  IS  not  satisfied,  and  shall  not  be  satisfied,  after  reading  tie  whole 
proceedings,  which  will  be  forthcoming  soon,  and  shall  demand  an  inveftigation  c  f 
our  niunicipality  before  Judge  I'oix,,  or  any  legal  tribunal  at  the  Capitol  you  have 

£  wr^oSV^'ofertr::.^""  ''  ^'^"^'=°"^'''^ '  ^°  ^'^  "-'-"^'«  >-  ^ 
''I  remain,  as  ever,  a  friend  to  truth,  good  order,  and  your  excellency's  humble 
'™'KxceUency  Tho.aa  Fora.>.  ^^'^"^''^'  ^^'^^^  SMITH. 


If 


i 


IV. 

I  THINK  that  the  nnpalatablo  assertion  in  the  text  will  be  proved  by  the  following 
contrasted  extracts  from  the  London  "Times"  and  the  " Deserct  News." 

The  Black  Countky.— The  reports  of  the  assistant  commissioners  engaged  in  the 
recent  education  inquiry  contain  some  very  painful  notices  of  the  state  of  morals  in 
some  parts  of  the  kingdom.  In  collier  villages  in  Durham,  where  the  men  earn  high 
wages  which  they  know  no  way  of  siiending  but  in  the  gratification  of  animal  appe- 
tites, the  condition  of  the  people  in  respect  to  morals  and  manners,  it  is  said,  mavnot 
be  described  Adultery  is  made  a  matter  of  mere  jest,  and  incest  also  is  frightfully 
common,  and  seems  to  excite  no  disgust.  In  some  of  those  parts  girls  mingle  with 
boys  at  school  till  13,  14,  or  16  years  of  age,  and  that  in  schools  not  superintended  by 
women;  it  is  impoB«i;.lo  to  state  the  coarseness  of  manners  that  prevails  in  these 
schools  Coming  south,  into  Stnff-ordshire,  wo  are  told  that  in  the  union  of  Dudlcv, 
where  boys  and  girls  can  earn  high  wages,  their  independence  of  their  parents'  aid 
to  maintain  them  leads  to  a  remarkable  independence  of  conduct,  and,  in  fact,  no 
restraint  IS  put  upon  their  inclinations  either  by  their  parents  or  the  oi)inion  of  the 
neighborhood.  It  is  held  rather  a  shame  to  an  unmarried  woman  not  to  have  had  a 
cmia  ;  ana  the  assistant  commissioner,  Mr.  Coode,  says  that  the  details  given  to  him 
by  the  most  respectable  and  tnistworthy  witnesses  would,  if  they  could  Ikj  reported, 
bo  discredited  by  most  men  of  the  world  only  acquainted  with  the  ordinary  profligacy 
of  the  poor ;  but  he  adds  that,  notwithstanding  all  this,  the  behavior  and  manners  in 
other  respects  of  girls  and  women  is  not  in  public  less  decent  than  that  in  places  of 
better  repute,  and  it  is  generally  asserted  that  this  early  corruption  of  females  does 
not  hinder  them  from  Iwing  very  good  neighbors,  and  excellent,  hard-working,  and 
atlectionatc  wives  and  mothers.    Kilnrntinn  in  n.i=  -li^triof  ;..  -..►  -,..-i.  _-!.-,t .  .-.  -•- 


Kvl 


548 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


a  common  saying,  "The  father  went  to  the  pit  and  h ,  made  a  fortune,  the  son  went 
to  school  and  he  lost  it."  But  so  much  has  been  done  by  the  upper  classes  in  pro- 
viding schools  for  the  lower  that  education  is  gradually  making  its  way,  and  many 
who  can  not  read  are  ashamed  of  their  deficiency,  and  desirous  to  have  their  chil- 
dren taught.  In  a  village  where  an  energetic  clergyman,  who  has  adopted  a  rough, 
strong  style  of  preaching,  has  succeeded  in  filling  his  church,  Mr.  Coode  noticed  dur- 
ing the  service  that  all  the  people  affected  to  find  the  place  in  the  books  furnished 
to  them,  but  full  half  the  books  were  held  upside  down,  and  within  his  obser>'ation 
not  one  was  open  at  the  right  place,  except  where  some  young  person  taught  to  read 
in  the  school  was  by  to  find  it. 

An  Ordinance  relating  to  Houses  of  Ill-fame  and  Prostitution. 
Sec.  1.  Be  it  ordained  by  the  City  Council  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  that  any  per- 
son or  persons  who  shall  be  found  guilty  of  keeping,  or  shall  be  an  inmate  of  any 
house  of  ill-fame,  or  place  for  the  practice  of  fornication  or  adultery,  or  knowingly 
own  or  be  interested  as  proprietor  or  landlord  of  any  such  house,  or  any  person  or 
persons  harboring  or  keeping  about  his,  her,  or  their  private  premises  any  whore- 
master,  strumpet,  or  whore,  knowing  them  to  be  guilty  of  following  a  lewd  course  of 
life,  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  for  each  oflFense  not  exceeding  one  hundred  dollars,  or 
imprisonment  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both  fine  and  imprisonment,  at  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  court  having  jurisdiction.  In  a  prosecution  under  this  section,  the 
person  having  charge  of  any  house  or  place  shall  be  deemed  the  keeper  thereof. 

Sec.  2.  It  shall  be  lawful,  on  the  trial  of  any  person  before  said  court  charged 
with  either  of  the  offenses  named  in  the  preceding  section,  for  the  city  to  introduce 
in  support  of  such  charge  testimony  of  the  general  character  and  reputation  of  the 
person  or  place  touching  the  offense  or  charge  set  forth  in  the  complaint,  and  the  de- 
fendant may  likewise  resort  to  testimony  of  a  like  nature  for  the  purpose  of  disprov- 
ing such  charge. 

Sec.  3.  No  person  shall  be  incapacitated  or  excused  from  testifying  touching  any 
offense  committed  by  another  against  any  of  the  provisions  set  forth  in  the  first  sec- 
tion of  this  ordinance  by  reason  of  his  or  l.<^r  having  participated  in  such  crime,  but 
the  evidence  which  may  be  given  by  such  person  shall  in  no  case  be  used  against  the 
person  so  testifying. 

Sec.  4.  The  word  adultery,  as  made  use  of  in  this  ordinance,  shall  be  construed  to 
mean  the  unlawfully  cohabiting  together  of  two  persons  when  either  one  or  both  of 
such  persons  are  married ;  and  the  word  fornication  shall  be  construed  to  mean  the 
cohabiting  together  of  two  unmarried  persons. 

Passed  December  30th,  18G0.  A.  O.  Smoot,  Mayor. 

KoBERT  Campbell,  City  Kecordcr. 


V.  CHRONOLOGICAL  ABSTRACT  OF  MORMON  HISTORY. 

1801.  Juno  1.  Birth  of  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  at  Wittingham,  Vermont,  U.  S.  In 
this  year  Mr.  Heber  C.  Kimball  also  was  born  (Juno  14th). 

1806.  Dec.  23.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  son  of  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  sen.,  generally  call- 
ed "Old  Father  Smith,"  and  Lucy  Mack,  known  as  "Mother  Smith," bom 
at  Sharon,  Windsor  Co.,  Vermont. 

1812.  A  book  called  the  "Manuscript  Found"  was  presented  to  Mr.  Patterson,  n 
bookseller  at  Pittsburgh,  Penn.,  by  Mr.  Solomon  Spalding  or  Spaulding,  of 
Crawford,  Penn. ;  bom  in  Ashford  Co.,  and  a  graduate  of  Dartmouth  Col- 
lege. The  author  died,  the  bookseller  followed  him  in  182G,  and  the  book 
fell  into  the  hands  of  a  printer's  compositor,  Sidney  liigdon,  one  of  the  earli- 
est Mormon  converts.  Anti-Mormons  identify  parts  of  the  "Book  of  Mor- 
mon" with  the  "Manuscript  Found."  The  Saints  deny  the  existence  of  a 
Patterson,  and  assert  that  Mr.  Spaulding's  book  was  a  mere  historical  and 
idolatrous  romance  concerning  the  Ten  Lost  Tribes,  altogether  different  from 
their  Biblion.  They  trace  the  calumny  to  a  certain  Doctor  (so  called  because 
a  seventh  son)  Philastus  Hurlbert  or  Hurlbut,  an  apostate  excommimicated 
for  gross  immorality,  and  bound  over  in  $500  to  keep  the  peace,  after  threat- 
ening to  murder  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun. ;  and  they  obserAC  that  in  those 
early  days  their  Prophet  was  too  unlearned  a  man  to  adapt  or  to  alter  a 
manuscript. 


APPENDIX  V. 


649 


1825. 


18U.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  powerfully  awakened  by  the  preaching  of  Mr.  Lane  an 
earnest  Methodist  minister.  ■>        r  e,  ,  ou 

1816.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith  removed  with  their  family-Alvin,  Hyrum,  Sophronia,  Jo- 
seph, Samuel,  Ephraim,  Wilham,  and  Catharine,  from  Vermont  to  New  York 
rhey  hrst  lived  at  Palmyra,  Wayne  Co.,  for  ten  years,  and  then  passed  on 
to  Manchester,  Ontario  Co.,  the  site  of  the  Hill  Cumorah,  where  they  tar- 
ried eleven  or  twelve  years. 

1820.  Many  religious  revivals  in  Western  New  York.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  becomes 
partial  to  Methodism  (J.  Hyde,  chap.  viii.).  Early  in  the  spring  of  the  year 
occurred  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.'s  first  or  preparatory  vision  announcine  his 
ministry. 

1823.  Sept.  20.  Second  vision ;  the  Angel  of  the  Lord  revealed  in  rather  a  solemn 
way  to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  the  existence  of  the  Gold  Plates,  which  ac- 
cording to  anti-Mormons,  he  and  his  brother  Hyrum  had  been  employed  in 
forging  and  fabricating  for  some  years.  On  the  next  day  (22d)  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith,  jun.,  opened  the  place  where  the  Plates  were  deposited  and  saw  them. 
Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  was  employed  by  a  person  called  Stroudo  to  dig  for 
him,  near  Hartwich,  Oswego  City,  N.  Y,  Money-diggers  were  then  common 
m  that  part  of  the  state,  seeking  the  buried  treasures  of  Captain  Kidd  the 
buccaneer.  Near  Hartwich,  between  the  vears  1818-1832,  lived  Mrs.  Spaul- 
ding,  and  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  stole  the  "Manuscript  Found"  from  a  trunk 
full  of  papers  (J.  H.). 

1827.  Jan.  18.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  married  Miss  Emma  Hale,  daughter  of  Isaac 

Hale,  of  South  Bainbridge,  Chenango  Co. ,  N.  Y.  This  person  afterward  be- 
came the  Cyna  Electa,  or  Elect  Lady,  and  ended  by  apostatizing  and  mar- 
rying a  Gentile.  " 

Sept.  22    Tlie  Golden  Plates  which  the  angel  announced  were  taken  up 
from  the  Hill  Cumorah  with  a  mighty  display  of  celestial  machinery,  and 
the  Breastplate  and  the  Urira  and  Thummim  were  found.    Accord'ing  to 
■c  '  ^'^^  ''"'^'"  ^^'*^  "■  "Pcep-stono  stolen  from  Willard  Chase  " 

1828.  February.  Martin  Harris,  a  farmer  from  whom  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.  had 

borrowed  $50  to  defray  expenses  of  printing  the  "Book  of  Mormon,"  sub- 
mitted a  transcript  of  the  characters  to  Professor  Anthon  and  Dr.  Mitchell 
of  New  York.  The  former  pronounced  them  to  be  a  "  singular  scroll,"  and 
"evidently  copied  after  the  Mexican  Calondnr  given  by  Humboldt." 

July.  Translation  of  tlio  "  Book  of  Mormon"  suspended  in  consequence  of 
Martin  Harris  stealing  (116-118?)  pages  of  the  manuscript,  which  were  never 
replaced.  For  this  reason  he  was  not  enrolled  among  the  glorious  first  six 
converts  to  Mormonism. 

1829.  April]  6.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  saw  O.  Cowdery  the  first  time.    Translation 

of  the  "Book  of  Mormon"  resumed,  O.  Cowdery  acting  as  secretary. 

May  15.  John  the  Baptist  ordained  into  the  Aaronic  priesthood  Mr.  Jo- 
seph Smith,  jun.,  and  O.  Cowdery,  his  amanuensis,  who  forthwith  baptized 
each  other.  *^ 

June  or  July.  The  Plates  of  the  "Book  of  Mormon"  were  shown  by  the 
Angel  of  God  to  the  three  earthly  witnesses— Oliver  Cowdery,  David  Whit- 
mer,  and  Martin  Harris. 

1830.  The  "  Book  of  Mormon"  was  translated  and  published,  and  this  year  is  No  1 

of  the  Mormon  -^ra. 

April  6.  The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints  was  organized 
at  Manchester,  N.  Y.  It  began  with  six  members  or  elders  being  ordained 
viz.,  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  sen.,  Mr.  Hyrum  Smith,  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  Mr! 
bamuel  Smitli,  Mr.  Oliver  Cowdery,  and  Mr.  Joseph  Knight.  Tlie  Sacrament 
was  administered,  and  hands  were  laid  on  for  the  gift  of  the  Holy  Ghost  on 
this  first  occasion  in  the  Church. 

April  11.  Oliver  Cowdery  preached  the  first  public  discourse  on  this  dis- 
pensation, and  the  principles  of  the  Gospel  as  revealed  to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith 
^^\  .  D'"''"g  t'"s  ">ont'»  tl>o  first  miracle  was  performed  by  the  power  of 
God  m  Colesvillo,  Broome  Co.,  N.  Y.  ^         f 

June  1.  First  Conference  of  the  Church  at  Fayette,  Seneca  Co.,  N.  Y. 
During  this  month  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  was  twice  arrested  on  false  pre- 
tenses, tried,  and  acquitted ;  wliile  his  wife,  by  special  revelation,  was  entitled 
"Elect  Lady"  and  "Daughter  of  God." 


♦  t   . 


550 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


August.  Parley  P.  Pratt,  and  Sidney  Rigdon  were  converted. 
Sept.  19.  O.  Pratt  baptized. 

October.  The  first  missionaries  to  the  Lamanites  were  appointed. 
I>ecembcr.  Sidney  Eigdon  visited  the  Prophet. 
1831.  January.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  set  out  for  Kirtland,  the  birthplace  of  Sid- 
ney Rigdon. 

Feb.  1    Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  arrived  at  Kirtland,  Ohio,  the  first  of  his 
many  Hegiras. 
Feb.  9.  God  commanded  the  elders  to  go  forth  in  pairs  and  preach. 
March  8.  John  Whitmer  was  appointed  Church  recorder  and  historian 
by  revelation. 

June  6.  The  Melchizedek,  or  Superior  Priesthood,  was  first  conferred  upon 
the  elders. 

June  10-19.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  sundry  Saints  transferred  them- 
selves from  Kirtland,  Ohio,  to  Jackson  County,  Missouri,  where  they  arrived 
in  the  middle  of  July.     The  Land  of  Zion  was  dedicated  and  consecrated 
for  the  gathering  of  the  Saints,  and  the  first  log  was  laid  in  Kaw  township 
twelve  miles  west  of  Independence,  Missouri. 

Aug.  2-3.  Site  for  the  temple  of  New  Zion  dedicated,  a  little  west  of  In- 
dependence. 
Aug.  4.  First  Conference  of  the  Church  in  the  land  of  Zion  held. 
Aug.  9.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  returned  from  Independence  to  Kirtland 
and,  arriving  about  the  end  of  the  month  (27th?),  established  the  fatal  "Kirtl 
land  Safety  Society  Bank." 
1832.  March  25.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  Sidney  Rigdon  were  tarred  and  feath- 
ered by  a  mob  for  attempting  to  establish  communism  and  dishonorable  deal- 
ing, forgery,  and  swindling  (J.  H.). 

March  26.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  acknowledged  the  President  of  the 
High  1  nesthood  at  a  General  Council  of  the  Church :  visited  his  flock  in 
Missouri. 

April  2.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  left  Ohio  for  Missouri,  and  arrived  at 
Independence  on  the  24th. 

April  14.  Mr.  Brigham  Young,  converted  by  Elder  Samuel  Smith,  and 
baptized  by  Eleazar  Millard,  in  this  year  went  to  Kirtland,  Ohio,  and  became 
a  devoted  follower  of  the  Prophet. 

May  1.  At  an  CEcumenical  Council  held  at  Independence,  Mo.,  it  was  de- 
cided to  print  the  "Book  of  Doctrines  and  Covenants." 

May  6.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  left  Missouri  for  Kirtland,  where  he  ar- 
rived in  June. 

June.  The  fii-st  Mormon  periodical,  the  "Evening  and  Morning  Star," 
was  published  by  the  Church,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  W.  W. 
Phelps,  at  Independence,  Mo,,  where  the  Saints  numbered  1200  souls. 
Nov.  6.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun. 's,  son  Joseph  bom  at  liirtland,  Ohio. 
In  this  year  Mr.  Hebcr  C.  Kimball  was  baptized. 
1833.  Jan.  22,  Gift  of  tongues  conferred. 

Feb.  2.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun,,  finished  his  inspired  retranslation  of  the 
New  Testament, 

March  18.  The  Quorum  of  Tlirco  High  Priests,  viz.,  Mr,  Joseph  Smith, 
jun,,  Sidney  Rigdon,  a  Campbellite  or  reformed  Baptist  preacher,  and  Fred- 
erick G,  Williams,  an  early  convert,  was  organized  as  a  Presidency  of  the 
Church  in  Kirtland,  and  forthwith  proceeded  to  have  visions  of  the  Savior, 
of  concourses  of  angels,  etc,  etc. 
July  2.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun,,  finished  the  translation  of  the  Bible. 
July  20,  A  mob  of  Missourians  in  Jackson  City  tore  down  the  new  news- 
paper office,  tarred,  feathered,  and  whipped  the  'Saints.  Thereupon,  three 
days  aftenvard,  the  Saints  agreed  with  their  persecutors  to  leave  Jackson  Co., 
and  laid  the  corner-stone  of  the  Lord's  House  in  Kirtland, 

Sept,  11.  A  printing-press  was  established  at  Kirtland  for  the  publication 
of  the  "Latter-Day  Saints'  Messenger  and  Advocate,"  Bishop  Partridge  be- 
ing at  the  head  of  the  Church  in  Zion. 

Oct.  8.  Elders  W.  W.  Phelps  and  O.  Hyde  presented  to  the  governors  of 
Alissouri  a  petition  from  the  Saints  of  Jackson  City  praying  for  redress, 
Oct.  31.  Ten  Mormon  houses  destroyed  by  the  populace  in  Jackson  Co. 


APPENDIX  V. 


551 


i 


^7*^^  t  ""°^  '^*""u  ^'"n^.^y,',''^  ^'''"*'-    "This  was  the  first  blood  shed, 

♦m  f  h^^^T"""  '•''?  V  T*^-^;  "-^-^  U°'"  ^°^-  '^'  t''^  persecutions  continued 
tiU  the  Saints  evacuated  Jackson  Co.,  and  fled  to  ClaVCo 

isff  ?1.^'^  Persecutions  raged  against  the  Saints  in  Van  Euren  Co.,  Mo. 

Dec.  18.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  sen.,  was  ordained  Patriarch 

Dec.  27.  The  mob  permitted  Messrs.  Davis  and  Kellev  to  carrv  the  estab. 

lishment  of  the  "Evening  and  Morning  Star"  to  Lite^rty^  C1^S>    Mo 

where  they  began  to  publish  the  "Missouri  Enquirer  " 
1834.  Feb.  17..^A  First  Presidency  of  Three  and  a  High  CouncU  of  Twelve  were  first 

Feb.  20.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  began  to  raise  a  small  army  for  carrvire 
out  his  dreams  of  physical  conquest  and  temporal  sovereignty  (J.U)-  also 
to  defend  himself  against  the  Missourian  mob.  J-  ^  •  ■"•; ,  ni^o 

«J^*^  ^'  f  ^^5'''^f  *'°^*'  °i  ^''^*^"  i?  ffirtland,  the  body  ecclesiastic  was 
first  named  "The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints."  The 
body  of  Zelph,  the  Lamanite,  was  dug  up  by  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  in  11- 

May  6.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  marched  on  Missouri  with  150  Mor- 
mons (?).  In  other  words,  left  Kirtland  for  Missouri  with  a  company  for  the 
redemption  of  Zion.  •' 

June  19.  The  cholera  broke  out  in  "  Zion's  camp"  soon  after  its  arrival  in 
Missouri,  and  a  terrible  storm  scattered  the  mob. 

June  23.  The  camp,  after  suflering  from  cholera,  arrived  at  Liberty,  Clay 

™il?!  ??n^°' J.?''-  fX^-  ^''-  '^°''=P'^  Smith,  jun.,  and  Oliver  Cowdeiy  first 
make  a  "Conditional  Covenant  with  the  Lord"  that  they  would  pay  tith-nr. 
This  was  Its  first  introduction  among  the  Latter-Day  Saints 

July  9.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  left  Clay  Co.  and  returned  to  Kirtland, 
where  he  arrived  about  the  end  of  the  month. 

1835.  Feb.  14.  A  Quorum  of  Twelve  Apostles  was  organized,  among  whom  were 

Bngham  Young  and  Heber  C.  Kimball.  The  former,  being  then  thirty-four 
years  old,  was  appointed  the  head  of  the  Apostolic  College,  and,  receiving 
the  gitt  of  tongues,  was  sent  on  a  missionary  tour  toward  the  east 

Feb.  21.  First  meeting  of  the  Twelve  Apostles. 

Fr  ^'  28.  The  organization  of  the  Quorum  of  Seventies  began. 

May  3.  The  Twelve  left  Kirtland  on  their  first  mission. 

July.  The  rolls  of  Egyptian  papyrus,  which  contained  the  writings  of 
momh  "^  '"  Egypt,*  were  obtained  in  the  early  part  of  this 

Aug.  17  At  a  General  Assembly  at  Finland,  the  "  Book  of  Doctrines  and 
Covenants  was  accepted  as  a  rule  of  faith  and  practice,  including  the  "Lec- 
tures on  Faith"  delivered  by  S-'dner  Rigdon. 

1836.  Jan.  4.  A  Hebrew  professorship  estcjlished  at  Kirtland. 

Jan.  21.  The  authorities  oi  the  Church  in  Kirtland  met  in  the  Temple 

weretp'enTd  t^^manr"  "'''"^  °"°  '"'°'''°"'  ''^'''  ^'^'""^  ^^^'"^''^ 

deSateV*"^^"  ^^°  ^'"''*'  ""^  ''"^  ^""^  '°  Kirtland,  costing  $40,000,  was 

^P"^^:  '"  *\«  Ho°8o  of  the  Lord,  the  Savior,  Moses,  Elias,  and  Elijah 
appeared  to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  O.  Cowdenr,  and'delivered  the  kiys 
ifuftl  priesthoods,  and  unlimited  power  in  things  temporal  and  spir- 

r^Mr.  '^,'^°  ^""Rons  ^fre  requested  by  the  citizens  to  remove  from  Clay 

"Fkftt^nTa&Co' '"'  '^'^''"''"  ^°""*'°^' "'''  "^^^'^^  ^^^  "^^  ^' 

1837.  June  12    Messrs.  H.  C.Kimball  and  0.  Hyde,  and  on  the  13th  W.  Richards, 

set  out  to  convert  England  (returned  in  July,  1838).    This  was  the  first  orl 
ganized  foreign  mission. 

.Aa%  ^^^^7  l^-  p;.Ki°l^''"!  0-  H^'le-  W.  Richards,  J.  Goodson,  T.  Rus- 
sell, and  Pnest  J.  Fielding,  leaving  Kirtland  on  June  13,  sailed  from  New 

•  "Nemo  mortBllum  omnibus  horis  wplt"  is  well  proved  by  tho  Mormon  nltflmnt,  tn  A^ivh^,. »,(» 
rog^yphi^     M.  Remy  has  given,  with  the  a.sistanci  of  M.  ffluU  Zi^a  Sie  Wow 
Book  of  Abraham  in  the  eeventeentU  note  at  the  end  of  bia  second  volume.  »«">■"«  "'O"^  »<>  «he 


? 


552 


THE  CFTY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


York  in  the  ship  "Garrick"  (July  1),  and  landed  at  Lirerpool.  Three  days 
afterward  Preston  had  the  honor  of  first  hearing  the  preaching  of  the  Gos- 
pel as  revealed  to  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.  The  first  baptism  by  divine  au- 
thority was  performed  by  immersion  in  the  River  Kibble  (July  30),  and  the 
first  confirmation  of  members  took  place  at  Walkerford  Chaidgey  (Aug.  4). 

July  27.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  was  prosecuted  with  a  vexatious  lawsuit 
at  Painesville,  Ohio. 

Sept.  27.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  left  Kirtland  to  establish  gnthering- 

f)lace8  and  visit  the  Saints  in  Missouri,  and  arrived  in  Far  West  about  the 
ast  of  October  or  the  first  of  November. 
Dec.  10.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  arrived  in  Kirtland  from  Missouri. 
Dec.  25.  The  first  Conference  of  Mormons  in  England  was  held  in  the 
Cock-pit,  Preston.    An  extensive  apostasy  befell  during  this  month  in  Kirt- 
land, Ohio;  and  the  "Safety  Society  Bank"  failed,  to  the  great  scandal  of 
Mormondom. 
1838.  Jan.  12.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  Siilney  Rigdon  fled  from  Kirtland  to  es- 
cape  mob  violence,  and  arrived  at  Far  West  on  March  14. 
April  12  and  13.   Martin  Harris,  Oliver  Cowdery,  and  David  Whitmer 


..'...u....ii(j  luu  xiupiiuiB  uiinrucitT,  were  cui  on  irom  tne  ijhurch  (J.  11.1. 
Orson  Uy  le,  Thos.  B.  Marsh,  W.  W.  Phelps,  and  others  apostatized,  accused 
the  Projihet  of  being  accessory  to  several  thefts  and  murders,  and  of  med- 
itating a  tyranny  over  that  part  of  Missouri,  and  eventually  over  the  whole 
republic  (J.  H.). 

Apn.  20.  Elders  H.  C.  Kimball  and  O.  Hyde  sailed  from  Liverpool  on 
their  return  home. 

July  4.  Sidney  Rigdon,  in  an  anniversary  discourse  called  "Sidncv's  Last 
Sermon,"  threatened  Gentiles  and  apostates  with  violence;  tho  "Danito 
Band,"  according  to  anti-Mormons,  was  at  once  organized. 

July  6.  The  Saints  were  again  jiersecutcd ;  605  Saints  left  Kirtland  for 
Missouri,  and  Mr.  Josejih  i^mnh,  jun.,  was  curried  before  Judge  King. 

Aug.  6.  Troubles  in  Gallatin  Co.  occasioned  by  elections.  Tho  Mormons 
Bay  that  persecutions  of  the  Saints  commenced  in  Davics  Co.,  Mo. 

Aug.  and  Scjjf.  Emeutes  between  the  mob  and  the  Mormons :  the  latter 
seized  sixty  to  eighty  stand  of  arms  at  Richmond,  and  fired  on  the  militia, 
mistaking  them  for  the  mob.  The  militia,  after  losing  several  of  their  num- 
ber, returned  the  fire,  killing  Mr.  D.  W.  Patten  (J.  H.). 

Sept.  7.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jr.,  was  tried  before  Judge  King,  of  Davics  Co. 

Sept.  25.  The  Soints,  ottem|)ting  jHilitical  rule  in  Davics  Co.,  wore  at- 

tacked  by  tho  cirizcn  mob,  who  murmured  at  being  jilaccd  under  Mormon 

rule  (J.  II.),  and  forced  tho  intruders  to  vacate.     Mr.  Brigliam  Younc  fled 

for  his  life  to  Quincy,  111. 

Oct.  I.  After  a  battle  in  Carroll  Co.,  Mo.,  the  Saints  agreed  to  evacuate 
tho  town  of  Do  Witt,  Carroll  Co.  (Oct.  11). 

Oct.  25.  At  tho  battle  of  Crooked  River,  D.  W.  Patten,  alias  Captain  Fear- 
not,  the  head  of  tho  Danites.  was  killed  (Mormon  Calendar). 

Oct.  27.  (k'norol  Lilhurn  W.  Hoggs,  of  Missouri,  issued  his  "extermina- 
tion order"  to  General  J.  B.  Clark. 

Oct.  30.  The  miliiia  (moli),  to  revenge  tho  death  of  their  comrades, 
Blnughtercd  sixteen  Mormons  and  two  boys  at  Ilaun's  Mills. 

Oct.  31.  Mr.  JoBcjili  Smith,  jun.,  and"  otheii',  were  tetraved  by  J.  M. 
Hinckle. 

Nov.  1.  General  J.  B.  Clark,  with  n  military  force,  surrounded  Far  West, 
and  took  prisoners  (by  stratagem)  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  Mr.  Ilyruni  Smith, 
and  forty  others,  who  were  jilaccd  in  jail,  tried  by  court-marli'al,  and  sen- 
tenced to  Iw  shot— a  catastro|iIio  prevented  hv  Ccnrral  Doniphan.  Tho 
Saints  gave  up  their  arms,  and  Far  West  was  iilunucred  by  the  mob, 

Nov.  2.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  hi.4  fellow-prisoners  left  Far  West  for 
Indepondcnce. 

Nov,  4.   Mr.  J«w'|ih  Smith,  jun.,  and  his  fellow-prisoners  were  kindly  re- 
ceived at  lndr|n'n(lenro. 
Nov.  12.  Mr,  Juscuh  Smith  and  62  others  were  tried  at  Riilimnnil.  n>v 


APPENDIX  V. 


658 


Co.,  Mo.,  and,  after  a  narrow  escape  from  being  shot  by  the  militia,  were 
handed  to  the  civil  authorities,  placed  in  close  confinement  in  Liberty  jail, 
and  released.  "" 

December.  The  Saints  withdrew  into  Illinois. 
1839.  Feb.  U  and  March  26.  Mr.  Brigham  Young  and  others  fled  from  Far  West  to 
Illinois,  and  attempted  to  relay  the  foundations  of  the  Temple  at  the  New 
Jerusalem,  twelve  miles  west  of  Independence,  Jackson  Co.,  Missouri. 

April  6.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  his  fellow-prisoners  were  removed 
for  trial  from  Richmond  to  Gallatin,  Davies  Co. 
April  9.  The  trial  of  the  prisoners  commenced  before  Judge  King. 
April  15.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  and  his  companions  left  Davies  for 
Boone  Co.,  and  on  the  way  escaped  from  their  jailor-guards. 

April  18-22.  The  Saints  evacuated  Far  West,  and  arrived  with  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith,  jun.,  at  Quincy,  Illinois. 

April  26.  Mr.  Brigham  Younj;  privily  laid  the  foundation  of  a  Temple  at 
Independence  (M.  Remy).  A  Conference  wps  held  at  the  Temple  Lot,  in 
Far  West,  in  fulfillment  of  a  revelation  given  July  8th,  1838.  (Appendix  to 
"Compendium  of  Faith  and  Doctrines,"  etc.) 

May  9.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  jun.,  visited  Commerec,  Hancock  Co.,  Illinois, 
at  the  invitation  of  Dr.  Isaac  Galland,  of  whom  he  obtained,  gratis,  a  largo 
tract  of  la".d  to  induce  the  Mormons  to  immigrate,  and  upon  the  receipt  of 
revelation  called  his  people  around  him,  and  sold  them  the  town  lots  (J.  II.). 
June  11.  The  first  house  was  built  by  the  Saints  at  Commerce,  a  new 
•'State  of  Zion,"  afterward  called  Nauvoo— tho  beautiful  site— which  pres- 
ently contained  15,000  souls. 
June  27.  Orson  Hyde,  tho  Apost'o,  returned  to  tho  Church. 
July  4.  P.  P.  Pratt  and  Morris  1  .elps  escaped  from  the  jail  in  Columbia, 
Boone  Co.,  Missouri. 

Aug.  29.  Elders  P.  P.  Pratt  and  O.  Pratt  set  out  on  their  first  mission  to 
England,  followed  on  Sept.  18  by  Elders  Brigham  Young  and  II.  C.  Kimball 
and  on  Sept.  20,  21,  by  Elders  G.  A.  Smith,  R.  Hodlock,  and  T.  Turley  :  C. 
Ilydo,  though  previously  appointud  by  revelation,  did  not  accompany  them 
(J.  H.).     Tho  result  was  a  body  of  769  converts. 

,  ^"l-.-"-  **■■■  •^2?*'P''  ^™'"''  J"n-<  S-  "-Rilon,  E.  Iligbee,  and  O.  P.  Rockwell, 
tno  chief  of  tho  Danites,  set  out  from  Nauvoo  as  delegates  from  the  Church 
tt)  tho  gon(?ral  government,  and  arrived  on  tho  28th  of  November  at  Wash- 
ington, 1).  C,  seeking  to  obtain  redress  from  Congress  for  their  losses  iu 
Missouri. 
1840.  March  4.  Mr.  Josejih  Smith,  jun.,  returned  from  Washington  to  Nauvoo 

March  9.  KIdm  Young,  Kimball,  P.  P.  Pratt,  O.  Pratt,  Smith,  and  Iled- 
lock  sailed  from  New  York  for  England. 

April  6.  Tho  English  mission  from  New  York  landed  at  Liverpool. 

April  15.  Elder  O.  Ilydo  set  out  from  Nauvoo  on  a  niiseiou  to  Joru- 
salem. 

April  21.  Commerce  was  finally  named  Nauvoo. 

May  27.  Tho  tlrst  number  of  tho  "Latter-Day  Saints' Millennial  Star" 
was  published  at  Manchester. 

Juno  6  The  first  company  of  emigrating  Saints  Hailed  from  Livcn)onl,  and 
reached  Now  York  in  July  20.  About  the  1st  of  June  appeared  tho  first 
English  edition  of  fho  "  Lattcr-Day  Saints'  Hymn  Book." 

Aug.  7.  Tim  first  regular  company  of  2(H)  emigrants,  comluctcd  by  Elders 
rhcodoro  lurloy,  a  returning  missionarv,  and  William  Clavton,  an  early 
English  cimvert,  sailed  from  Liverpool  to  New  York. 

Sept.  14.   Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  sen.,  died  at  Nimvoo. 

Oct.  3.  Tho  Mormons  bognii  to  build  their  Temple,  and  iHStitioncd  tho 
legislature  of  Illinois  for  the  incorixiration  of  Nnnvoo. 

Dee.  16.  The  municipal  oliartor  of  the  city  of  Nauvoo  Wcamo  law. 
January.  Tho  first  English  edition  of  the  "Book  of  Mormon"  was  jiiilillshed. 

tel).  4.  The  Nauvoo  Coiporation  Act,  jmsied  in  the  preooding  printer, 
l>PKan  to  bo  in  force.  Tho  Nauvoo  Legion  was  organised  by  Mr.  Joseph 
Smith,  who  made  liimsclf  its  lieutenant  goueiwl. 

April  6.  The  cornor-gtono  of  tho  House  of  tho  Lord  in  Nauvoo  wan  Inl.l. 
A  (cconu  misKion,  composed  ot  EKiors  B.  Young,  11.  C.  Kimball,  O.  Pratt, 


1841 


>ll 


554 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS, 


rrir^^H'^'""^'  ^■  '^/^"''S-  ^-  ^'°'''''  """^  ^^-  K''=h«'''9  left  New  York  on 
April  2d,  and  landed  at  Liverpool  on  May  20.  -^"'k  ou 

orl"r"«f°;»,5^«//"''l'A?"''*'  y"^  arrested  under  a  requisition  from  the  Gov- 
crnor  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  was  tried  at  Monmouth,  Illinois,  on  the  9th 
and  was  acquitted  on  the  next  day.  ^"muis,  on  me  atn, 

glilf  ^'  ^^^'  ^"S'^"'"  Young  and  Heber  C.  KimbaU  returned  from  En- 

1B10  itr    ^u\'  ®;<  ^"''1  ''"P*"™"!  font '«  Nauvoo  Temple  was  dedicated. 

1842.  March  1.  "Book  of  Abraham-  translated  and  published  in  "Times  and  Sea- 

fiOIiS* 

O.  pKkteTr''*  *°  "««'*««'"»'«  Lieutenant  Governor  Boggs,  attributed  to 

May  19.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  made  Mayor  of  Nauvoo 
thc^l^^ky  MoumS  '"''  P"P'"^^*^  ''"'  *^°  «-°^  '^-^'^  ^^  ^-en  to 

simll^-toth^Je  ortftlr"  """'''''  "  "^"'•'^  *'"'°  ""'^^  circumstances 
Dec.  7    Mr.  O.  Hyde  returned  from  his  mission  to  Palestine. 
Dec.  26.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  charged  with  assassination,  was  arrested  a 

third  time  under  a  requisition  from  the  Governor  of  the  State  of  Missouri. 

1R11    T„n  r    M  ^'t*""  P?'ye'''?'y  •^•^fi^n  to>  whisi,ered  about  Nauvoo  (J.  H.). 
1843.  Jan.  5.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  acquitted  at  Springvillc 

Jan.  20.  Mr.  O.  Pratt  received  back  into  the  Church 

.Z^y  ^-  .-Lieutenant  Governor  L.  \V.  Boggs  (under  Governor  D.  DnnklinX 
Tn  fj~'(;'}°''?'l  offended  the  Mormons  by  driving  them  from  the  state 
in  1838),  was  shot  in  the  mouth  through  an  open  window-an  act  generallv 
attributed  to  O.  P.  Kockwell,  Chief  of  the  Dinites,  "with  the  connhaS 
and  under  the  instructions  of  Joseph  Smith"  (J.  II.).  In  this  year  Mr  Jo- 
seph Smith  became  Mayor  of  Nauvoo,  vice  J.  C.  Bennett,  "cut  off  for  im- 
itating Smith  in  his  spiritual  wifedom"  (J.  II.).  Anti-Mormons  declare  that 
m  184d  polygamy  was  enjoined  a  second  time,  but  not  practiced  till  1852 

Juno  23.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  again  arrested,  and  released  on  July  2. 

July  12.  Revelation  enjoining  polygamy  received. 

Aug.  30.  General  J.  A.  Bennett  baptized. 

Nov.  4.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  sent  his  letters  to  the  candidates  for  the  Pres- 
idency of  the  United  States. 

Nov.  28.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  addresses  a  memorial  to  Congress  reppcctinc 

the  transactions  at  Missouri.  i    ■     tt 

1844.  Feb.  7.  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  issued  his  address  as  candidate  for  the  Presidency 

of  the  United  States.  ' 

May  1 7.  Mr.  Joseph  Smitli  was  carried  in  triumph  through  the  streets  of 
JSauvoo. 

May  4.  Francis  M.  Higlme,  expelled  for  disobedience  from  the  Church 
prosrcuted  Mr.  Joseph  Smith  for  shinder,  and  arrested  him  under  a  capias' 
the  defendant  then  sued  out  a  habeas  corpus  before  the  Municipal  Court  of 
Nauvoo,  of  which  he  was  maj'or. 

May  0.  Dr.  K.  D.  Foster  and  Mr.  William  Law,  haring  libeled,  in  the 

Kxpositor-  pajwr,  Mr.  Joseph  Smith,  accusing  him  of  having  taken  to  snir^ 
Jtiml  wife  Mrs.  Io.Hter,  were  punished  by  the  marshal  and  municii)al  omcrni 
who.  with  a  josse,  broke  the  press  as  a  nuisance,  and  burned  tlip  typos.  The* 
lilielers  fled,  and  took  out  a  warrant  against  Mr.  Josej)h  Smith  and  others 
who  resisted  and  repelled  tho  officer  in  charge,  whereupon  the  militia  was 
ordered  out. 

Juno  13.  The  Gentiles  armed  against  the  Mormons. 

Juno  17.  Mr.  Joiicpli  Smith  arrested  and  released. 

Juno  24.  Governor  Ford,  of  Illinois,  jiersuaded  tho  Smiths,  under  tho 
pledge  of  his  word,  and  tlio  faith  and  lionor  of  tho  state,  to  yield  np  their 
nrms,  and  sent  thorn  prisoners  under  the  charge  of  sixty  nniitin-mon  tho 
I  Carthago  Grays,  a  highly  hostile  body,  rommanded  by  Captain  Smith,  to 
Carthage,  the  capital  of  Hanrork  Co.,  eighteen  to  twenty  miles  from  Nail- 
voo,  whero  riO(X)  Mormons  were  in  arms. 

Juno  25.  Tho  prisoners  wero  arrested  by  tho  constable  on  n  chorgo  of 
treason.  • 


APPENDIX  V. 


655 


1815. 


:Jl^^n.-J^"  ''°^'™°'  '*""  P^'^'^ecd  himself  for  the  personal  safety  of 

^^^^^^^^^:^:^^^ 

frn?f  n''".^''-  ^r«'''''»  Young,  the  President  of  the  Twelve  Apostles  came 
from  Boston,  and  succeeded  to  the  Presidency  of  the  Church  dSils^ 

^.  Nov.  17.  Mr.  David  Smith,  son  of  the  Prophet,  bom  at  the  Nauvoo  Man- 

The  Mormon  leaders  determined  to  abandon  Nauvoo. 
^^May.  The  capstone  of  the  Mormon  Temple  was  laid,  and  endowments  be- 

Irn!"  l\'  ^r'^^^r"'""  Mormon  houses  burnt  by  the  Gentiles. 
The  authoriflAr.hfn.,    ^v."*'''''?  '"''  ''^'^"^  ''^  ^^^  State  Legislature. 
"  Beaut  ^0!  V"  on  tl,?rii''  ""''"  ^.treaty  with  the  mob  to  evacuate  the 

ueautitui  t^ity  on  the  followmg  spr  ng.  Several  places  were  im.i.n«r>rl  • 
Vancouver's  Island  by  Mr.  John  Taylor,  Texas  by  Mn  LymrWig  75' 
fornm^by  others;  at  last  they  chose'  some  valle/in  the^Soek/Mounrain; 

^®*^'  '^thSh  attri^v'''  ^'"^  ^'^  administered  in  the  Mississippi  River ;  on 

Bluff?,  fowa  "^  P'""''''  ''^'  ^''''^^'  """^  "located"  at  Council 

February    The  firet  Mormon  exodus  began  with  this  month-  2000  soula 

crossed  the  frozen  Mississi,,pi  en  route  for  Council  Bluffs.  '  ^ 

M^^  1    f,  r°  ?^''^'*/?'"*«  '"■"^«'l  »'  Garden  Grove,  Iowa  Territory. 
May  1.  Dedication  of  the  Temple  at  Nauvoo.  iv-miory. 

TeSry^"  ^''°  ^*°"'''  ""'"'*  °^  *''"  ^"'"^  ^''^^'"^  "'  M"""'  ^isgah,  Iowa 

June-July.  The  Mormon  battalion  (r.OO  men),  on  being  called  for  bv  the 

general  govemmont,  set  out  for  the  Mexican  campaign^    "  Mr  BrS.am 

Young  sells  a  company  of  his  brethren  for  $20,000"  (J.  II.).     «'  You  shaU 

remnant  of  the  Saints.    Toward  the  end  of  this  year  and  the  JK-cinnini/  of 
the  next,  tho  (iuorum  of  Three  was  reorganized  at  a  specia  coSncc  heW 

to  reeommrce  Jhi  gaThl.H„r"'^"^      '"  '''""'"  ''  ''^  ^"'"'^  "^«"'«  '^""^ 

1847.  AprilH.  The  pioneer  band,  143  men,  headed  by  Mr.  Bricliam  Youne  and 

bnTof  Tm^  ""^"V;!  '^'^  """^'  •""^"-«'  <^"'"''"  NaTion?on  the\S 

S^MounSr""  """'  ""'  '"""^^^'^  ^^°'°"^''  ^'^-^'-'"'^  trail  ov^rTo 

rJ^^^^S^S^-  '^-'-^'  -'^  -^  '^^  "t''-  -rived  at  tho 

July  24.  Mr  Brigham  Young  and  the  main  Imdv  entered  tho  valiev  on 

this  dav,  wlurh  be.an.o  a  solemn  anniven.«ry  in  the  Ohurch     The  Mormons 

rr<  .-eodcd  to  lay  the  fo.mdntioiiH  of  tho  city.  i>iormons 

TTni/ w"  '-n   ^^'-  .""»!"""/"""•*  returned  to  Counril  Bluffs, 
year's!"  ^^'K'"''"""  f"^'"  l^ngl-'d  reopened  after  a  suspension  of  two 

r,!!i"''"i  i^""'  ""k''""}  Y''""8  (whoso  appointment  had  Iwn  confirmed  bv  a 
General  Conforcuco  hold  at  Kaneavillo,  Iowa)  Mt  v..in.er  ..'..^™"~  the  see 


1848. 


hi 


.^1 


id 


556 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


ond  time,  and,  followed  by  Mr.  H.  C.  Kimball  and  the  mass  of  the  Saints 
reached  the  Promised  Land  in  September.  ' 

September.   Some  Mormons  who  had  started  from  New  York  for  San 
Francisco,  expecting  to  find  the  Church  in  California  or  Vancouver's  Island 
arrived  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City  from  the  West.  ' 

Nov.  10.  The  Temple  in  Nauvoo  burnt. 
1849.  March  6.  At  a  convention  lield  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City  the  Constitution  of 
the  State  of  Deser^t  was  drafted,  and  the  Legislature  was  elected  under  its 
provisions. 

July  2.  Delegates  sent  to  Washington  petitioned  for  admission  into  the 
Union  as  a  free,  sovereign,  and  independent  state. 

August.  Captain  Stansbury  and  Lieutenant  Gunnison,  Topographical  En- 
gineers, by  order  of  the  federal  government,  surveyed  Great  Salt  Lake  Val- 
ley. 

Sept.  9.  A  bill  organizing  Utah  Territory  was  signed  by  President  Fill- 
more     The  Perpetual  Emigration  Fund  was  organized.    Five  Yutas  were 
A  *"  ^y  Captain  John  Scott  and  his  Mormons. 

18o0.  April  5.  The  Assembly  met,  and  Utah  Territory  was  duly  organized. 

May  27.  The  walls  of  the  Temple  at  Nauvoo  were  blown  down  by  a  hur- 
ncane. 

Juno  14.  The  first  missionaries  to  Scandinavia  landed  in  Copenhaecn. 
Denmark.  '         "     ' 

Juno  15.  The  first  number  of  the  "Dcseret  News"  appeared  under  the 
editorship  of  Dr.  Willard  Richards. 

Aug.  12.  The  first  baptisms  in  Denmark  by  legal  authority  in  tliis  Dis- 
pensation took  place. 

Sept.  S).  The  "Act"  for  organizing  the  Territory  of  Utah  became  a  law. 
Mr.  Brigham  Young  was  appointed  Governor  and  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affuirs  in  Utah  Territory  by  President  Fillmore,  who  signed  the  act.  The 
judges,  Brocchus,  Day,  and  Brandeburg,  and  Mr.  Secretary  Harris,  arrived 
Et  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Sept.  22.  Judge  Brocchus  insulted  the  people,  and,  accompanied  hy  the 
other  federal  officers,  fled  from  the  Territory. 

Oct.  13.  The  first  company  of  Perpetual  Emigration  Fund  emigrants  ar- 
rived in  Great  Salt  Lake  City  from  the  United  States. 

Dec.  7.  The  first  branch  of  the  Church  in  France  was  organized  at  Paris. 

In  1 850  was  the  Indian  War.  Mr.  Iligbeo  was  the  first  white  settler  slain,' 
and  many  of  tlie  Yutas  wore  killed. 

1851.  Jan.  9.  Great  Salt  Lake  City  was  incorporated. 

Feb.  3.  Mr.  Brigham  Young  sworti  in  as  Governor  of  Utah. 

April  6.  Legislature  of  Provisional  State  of  Dcserot  dissolved.  The  Legis- 
lativo  Assembly  was  elected  under  the  Territorial  Bill.  A  memorial  signed 
by  13,0(K)  names  was  forwarded  to  her  Britannic  majesty's  government,  pro- 
posing for  a  relief  by  emigration  of  a  portion  of  the  jM)()rcr  subjects  to  colo- 
nize Oregon  or  Vancouver's  Island,  the  latter  being  about  the  dimensions  of 
England. 

April  7.  Tlie  Tubemaclo  was  built,  and  at  a  General  Conference  in  Great 
Salt  Lake  City  it  was  voted  to  build  a  Tcm|)lo. 

Sept.  22  ()pining  of  tlio  Legislature  of  Utah  Territorj'.  Greot  trouble 
with  the  government  of  the  United  States  fomenteil  by  tiie  federal  officials' 
march.  Tlie  liOgislature  forbade  by  ordinances  tlie  sale  of  arms,  ammuni- 
tion, and  spirituous  liquors  to  the  Indians. 

^^''"■'''"  '''"■"^■""^'''.^'' ""<''""■"  Crock,  Iron  Co.,  Utah  Territory,  founded. 

1852.  Juuf .  Fifteen  Frenchmen  baptized  in  Paris. 

Aug.  29.  The  revelation  on  the  celestial  law  of  marriage,  alias  polygamy 
(bearing  date  1843),  was  pul)liHlicd  by  Mr.  Brigham  Young. 

So|)t.  3.  The  first  compony  of  Perpetual  Emigration  Fund  converts  from 
Euro|io  leached  CJreat  Salt  Luke  City. 

Dee.  13.  The  I^egislntive  Ast'ombly  of  Utah  Territory  met  for  the  first 
time.  The  judges  and  the  Secretary  of  State  oppointed  bv  President  Pierce 
came  to  Imiul. 

1853.  Jan.  1 7.  The  Dcscrc't  Iron  Company  was  chartered  by  the  Leginlaturo  of  Utah 

Territory. 


APPENDIX  V. 


557 


1855. 


Jan.  25.  The  missionar  elders  O.  Spencer  and  J.  Hontz  arrived  in  Ber- 
lin, Prussia,  and  were  banished  on  the  2d  of  February 

Feb.  14.  Temple  Block  was  consecrated,  ground  was'broken  for  the  found- 
ation of  the  Temple,  and  the  excavations  began. 

March  7.  The  first  missionaries  to  Gibraltar  arrived  there 

April  6.  Corner-stone  of  the  new  Temple  laid  with  religious  rites 
A. «  iJ"  nTo^pfu'^^-""*^  autumn  of  tliis  year  were  serious  Indian 'troubles. 
At  6  A.M. ,  Oct.  26th,  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Gunnison  and  eight  men  of  his  party, 
including  the  botanist,  M.  Creutzfeldt,  were  massacred  on  the  border  of  Se- 
vier River,  twenty  miles  north  of  Lake  Sevier. 

■    ^^'''}'  7^^  ^^^  number  of  the  "Journal  of  Discourses"  was  published 
in  lingland.     This  year  Keokuk  was  made  the  outfitting  place  for  emi- 
grants. '  , 
1864.  January.  New  alphabet  adopted  by  the  University  of  Desere't. 

April  7.  Mr.  J.  M.  Grant  was  appointed  to  the  First  Presidency,  vice  W 
Eichards,  deceased  on  March  11th. 

May  23.  The  patriarch  John  Smith  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  another 
John  Smith,  son  of  Ilyrum  Smith,  and  nephew  of  the  Prophet. 

June  28.  John  Smith,  son  of  Hy/um  Smith,  was  appointed  Patriarch  over 
tlie  Church. 

August.  Colonel  Steptoo,  commanding  about  1000  federal  troops,  arrived 
at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Sept.  9.  At  the  instance  of  Colonel  Steptoe,  who  refused  to  resign  his  mil- 
itary commission,  Mr.Brigham  Young  was  reappointed  governor,  and  held 
T      on  ?  ""'"  ^^^^-     ^'""^^  *''°  Gentiles  memorialized  in  his  favor. 
Jan.  29.  Wa  chor,  alias  Wakara,  alias  Walker,  chief  of  the  Yuta  Indians,  died 
(was  secretly  put  to  death  and  buried  by  Jordan,  Mr.  Chandlcss). 

May  5.  Endowment  House  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City  consecrated. 

May  11.  Treaty  of  peace  concluded  with  the  Yuta  Indians 

May.  Co  onel  Steptoo,  after  a  stay  of  six  months,  marched  with  the  United 
btates  cavalry  to  California. 

August  (July?).  Judge  Drummond,  Sun-eyor  General  Burr,  and  other 
United  States  oflicials,  arrived  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

In  the  fall  of  this  year  one  third  of  the  crops  was  destroyed  by  droueht  and 
grasshoppers.  .-       ./         o 

October. 
O.  Spencer  ' 

in  a  gonernl  epistle  that  Saints  emigrating  by  the  Pcrpetui.l  Emigr 
shoiild  cross  the  Prairies  and  Rocky  Mountains  with  hand-cnrts 

Dec  10.  The  local  Legislature  met  for  the  first  time  at  Fillmore  the  Ter- 
ritorial capital,  and  passed  a  bill  authorizing  an  election  of  delegates  to  a 
lerritorial  Convention  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  State  Constitution,  and 
to  petition  Congress  for  the  admission  of  Utah  into  tho  Union.  They  also 
j)assed  a  bill  authorizing  a  census. 

Most  of  tho  Mormons  became  polygamists  (J.  IL). 
March  1 7.  A  conTCntion  of  delegates  met  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and  adopt- 
ed a  State  Constitution,  sending  Messrs.  John  Taylor  and  George  A.  Smith, 
apostles,  both  as  delegntos  to  Washington,  v  itli  a  view  to  obtaining  admission 
into  the  Union  as  a  state.  No  answer  was  returned.  During  tho  very  se- 
vere winter  and  spring  half  the  stock  perished  by  frost,  and  grain  became 

May.  Judge  W.  W.  Drummond  loft  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  after  having 
forwarded  false  charges  of  rolwllion,  burning  the  library,  and  destroying  the 
archives:  these  reports  caused  all  tho  troubles  with  the' United  States. 

1  ho  practice  of  tithe-paying  was  introduced  among  tho  Saints  in  Europe. 
Io>va  City  was  made  tho  outfit  point  for  tho  Plains. 

June.     Lucy  Mack,  the  Propliot's  mother,  died. 

Sent.  20.  The  first  Imnd-cart  train  crossed  tho  Plain.>i,  and  arrived  at  Groat 
Salt  Lake  City. 
1857.  (Tho  winter  of  Mormon  d.-.  ontcnt.)    March.  Judge  Dnimmond  reported  cal- 
umnies against  tho  Mormons. 

April.  Sun-eyor  General  Burr  and  other  United  States  oflicials  left  Utah 

lArrirnrv  nn.1    •'o»ttt.«.#..l   »..  «1...   TT..!....1   u.^.-_ 
_. ^,,..   ,-,.i.-.,  dates. 


irS.  .  .;  D 

.  A  branch  of  the  Church  was  organized  in  Dresden  (15th) ;  Elder 
■  died  on  tho  29th.  Tho  First  Presidency  of  tho  Church  proposed 
il  epistle  that  Samts  emigrating  by  the  Pcrpetui.l  Emigration  Fund 


185C. 


i 


'■'hM.'i^'  *,  iSaStofc*e>dS.-*R 


558 


THE  CITY  OP  THE  SAINTS. 


fn^r^Jf^vl^^Sr"'  ^^g'^J^ture  petitioned  Congress  to  send  better  oflScers.  or 
to  permit  the  Mormons  to  appoint  hondjide  citizens  and  residents.         ^ 

Mail  communication  with  the  Stntes-the  "Y  Express"  established  bv 
Mr  Brigham  Young-was  cut  off,  to  keep  the  Mormons  ignorant  of  the  steps 
taken  against  them,  and  this  continued  for  nearly  a  year.  The  Press  in  the 
United  States  generally  opined  that  the  Mormons  were  to  be  "wird  oSt  " 

£  00  ^^'V'^^^  ^'  ?''?,^*  ''"'•"^  ^y  ««"''°'  M'Lean  in  Kansas 
wowl         •   ^"^Sndier  General  W.  S.  Harney,  commanding  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, was  ordered  to  take  charge  of  the  army  of  Utah.     lie  was  removed 
after  declaring  that  he  would  "  hang  Brigham  first  and  try  liim  Afterward  " 
John^on.™'"^  by  Colonel  Alexander,  and  afterward  by  Generkl 

utSniiMeaiTow."'''  '^  "'''°  '"^'^  ""^^"'=^'^  "«  ^°  ^^0  emigrants 
In  this  month  1400  men,  artillery  and  liners  of  the  5th  and  10th  regiments 
appeared  upon  the  Sweetwater,  followed  by  1000  more,  makingthe  whoSco 
Sal  iJws        ''''"'  *  ^""^  '^'"'''  """■'"""  '<^  enforce  oSience  to  the 

roSl"/w  n^'"  ^"e^r  X°"°*=^  '''"""^  "••=  remarkable  document  subjoined.* 
Sd  20  r  Mn,'J"'  *"■''"■"'  1°  ^'TP  ,*''?  »"'^''*=^  '»  ^^'^  Wasach  Mountains, 
vrnW?i    Moimons  prepared  to  defend  their  hearths  and  homes  against  the 

Lake  Citvf  ^^'"'^  ^"°  ^^'^'  •'"'^'^  «»'  Gr«"t  Salt 

Oct.  5-C.  The  Mormons,  who  were  "spoiling  for  a  fight."  bunicd  witb- 
2  nnlr^'/r  "?''f  «°^^"""°'-'  '"«  F"vision^rai„s,  one Vf^J.ie  and 
ttnStrlrmyTut'ah!  ""'""^'  ""'^  ''''''  '^•""'  ^^  violent  Wra- 
•        7Voc?nnm<i-on  6j/  <Ac  Gowmor,  proclaimin  r  J/<xj(ia;  /.mo  <«  «<,  r.  n-Uoni  of  Ctah  ' 

plUh'rrr;LV*aK;^u"^^or'^'='^  "^  "  ""^"  «  ^""•"  ^••"'  "-  -"-"y  — ns  -  to  Hccom- 
iZfZ  WIT  ''^«'"y-''^6  yi'"™  we  Imvo  truftPd  ..fflcinla  of  the  Rovcramcnt,  from  constab'ps  anfl 
Justices  to  J.ulges,  BovtmorH,  nn.l  presldcnta,  only  to  be  Bconio.l,  held  in  derieion  nritcd  and  l^lZ 
cd.  Oiir  houfen  have  boon  pliind..red  and  then  b.im.'d,  our  flel.L  b.i.Iwastronr  Brine  n«l  men  itnX 
cre<I  while  nn<ler  the  pledged  faith  of  the  governme.'t  for  their  Bufitrand  Z  familS  dXn  f^n." 
«.elr  home.,  o  find  that  nhelter  in  the  bftm.n  wllderne.^  and  that  P--  ecHon  LoZ  hStile  Hava^^ 
wllcli  were  .lenl.d  them  in  the  boasted  al)o,le8  of  Clirii.tl..nity  and  (hillzation  ""vages, 

Claimed!  *-''°""'""°''  "^  *"""  """'"'O"  C""ntry  guarantee-  unto  u.  all  that  we  do  now  or  have  ever 
"If  the  constitutional  rights  which  pertain  nnto  na  as  American  citizens  were  eitend.d  to  it.i, 

srir^ate'^v'^  rie'r;';;^.!!^'^^'^'  ""■^  ^"'"^  »■«'  '""-"-"^  xUe'^ctutai/thit*;'^ 

Jjortunjty  of  defendlnK  oun«,lves  fron.  the  X,  fiX«t"  u^U.^r a.pl'r^i  L"  ag^trnSt-^^^^^^^      .T 
tlon.     The  government  ling  not  condescended  to  cause  an  InvestlgatlnK  committee  or  other  nnr^n?^ 
be  sent  to  Inqn  re  Into  and  ascertain  the  truth,  as  Is  customary  Insuch  .ascs        "  "  ""'"  ^^"^^  '" 
.nA  )  l^r.'"'      r"  "'P*','^'"'"  'o  ''0  <■«•«•.  liut  that  avails  us  nothing.    Wo  are  condemned  unheard 
and  force.1  to  an  Issue  with  an  armed  mercenary  mob,  which  has  lH.en  sent  against  us" ttl,"?S«' 

given  to  tie  public ;  of  coniipt  ofliclals,  who  have  brought  false  accusations  against  us  t^  scr("e  i  them 

filthy  I'^^'s'^akr      '^'^'  "'"  '"  '""■""'"^  "'■'""'  "'"'  "'"'•""'>'  «^"""*'  wirp'^tlluto  trtruli;  f?; 

„~lll'.'!.i'"""'  "'l'*"!'  '"J".''*''"  ""'"  ''""■"^  "•*"  '"  '•"mp^I"  "f  to  resort  to  the  great  flivt  Inw  of  self 
preservation,  an.l  stand  in  our  own  .I.fen.e-a  right  guaranteed  unto  u.  by  IhoToulu"  of  the  Instit , 
tloni  of  our  country,  and  uiK,n  which  the  govenmient  Is  b..s.Hl.  ^        *■  " "     """• 

Our  duty  to  onrselve^  to  our  families,  rcciulres  us  not  to  tamely  submit  to  he  driven  and  sl.ln 
T^^Tl""  ?•;;"":'  "■  I'"r"-\""r«lves.'  curduty  to  our  countr^^  «  holy  n^i  n  ?mr  Id^^^^ 
frciHlom  and  lllM.rty,  r..,ulres  that  we  should  not  quietly  stand  slil    and  see  M.  S    "t    rs  f  roln„ 

..ch  «1^1''  :nlv'„ma;'''f'n  ""•"'"":""";•  ''^'"«  "" '"  •"^.l-tlon  to  an  unlaTu  n  MlJ  "  2,Sm^ 
«.joh  a.  uin  only  omanatu  [In  a  country  ..f  constitutional  lawj  fron.  usurpation,  tyranny,  and  eppiSl 

„» V-7'i"'T*''V  '•  "'^•'''5'"  Voung,  Oovemor  and  Puperintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  for  the  Tirritorw 
of  I  tah,  u  the  name  of  tlie  people  of  the  ruit.Ml  Stales  in  the  Territory  of  Ut'.h,  Tirritory 

tense  whai'ver        """      f""^' "' ""'■'y  •'"'"ipllon,  from  coming  Into  this  Territory  un.lcr  any  p,t>. 

no;;?^Ji.'.*;:Lt«Xnst.:t\iM!.'''^ '■"■'' '''™"''^-'*'''  "»""'^'"'  •»  '""•"' «» "  —'•- 

.i.r?'i'  *'•■*" T.'  '""*  '»  li'>'l>y  <l«!Kfe.l  to  exist  in  this  Territory  from  and  after  the  rubllcation  of 

rt  WtZt'':';- n^l  '};z'zx::cr'  "•  "•"' "' '"»'"  '""^  - '"-"«"-  '^^At 

" Ulvcn  under  my  hand  and  seal  at  ()r.at  Hnlt  Lake  City,  Territory  of  riab.  Ilils  fifle,  nth  dsv  of 
HtatM  of  America  tU9«lghty..ucuna.  Ubiuiiaji  Voi.nu." 


APPENDIX  V. 


669 


November.  Army  of  Utah  encamped  near  Green  River. 
^°^- 1  r  •  ^^-'o^'aynation  of  Mr.  Gumming,  the  new  governor. 
IftfiS   T„n   ^r^  A  i  1       ^"K*?"*.™  Roups'*  "nessaRo  to  the  Legislature  of  Utah. 

February.  Colonel  Kane  reached  Great  Salt  Lake  City 
April  5.  Governor  A.  Camming  appointed  to  Utah  Territorv  after  tho 
thankless  offer  had  been  refused  by  sixteen  or  seventeen  polSl  pereons° 
left  Camp  Scott,  near  Fort  Bridger,  and  on  the  12th  of  Apnl  entered  Great 
Salt  Lake  City.    The  "rebellion  in  Utah"  found  to  be  a  pure  Invention 

fhif/\^'i^fl''™J°"°,^'/°"T'='^  ^^  25,000  souls,  marched  to  Pro?o.;vith 
their  stock,  flocks,  and  chattels,  even  their  furniture. 

April  15.  Governor  Gumming  ofiicially  reported  a  respectful  reception 
and  the  Illumination  of  Echo  Kanyon;  also  that  the  records  of  the  UnUel 
S™m,?t     '-.","?  n*"""^^  ?f  a  Mormon,  Mr.  W.  H.  Hooper,  Secretary  pro 
tern.,  the  Terntorial  Library,  in  charge  of  Mr.  W.  G.  Staines,  and  other  pub- 
lie  property,  were  all  unimpaired,  the  contrary  report  having  constituted  the 

April  2-t.  Governor  Gumming  issued  a  proclamation  that  he  would  as- 
sume  effective  protection  of  all  persons  illegally  restrained  of  their  liberty  in 
Utah.  lew  availed  themselves  of  his  offer.  The  Indian  agent,  Drf  T. 
Garland  Hurt,  was  accused  of  having  incited  the  Uinta  Indians  tJ  acts  of 
Unitedffies  ^^'^^^'^^^-"^  standing  charge  and  counter  charge  in  the 

h2:l^lJ^'  ^''1°  Ro^'craor  made  a  requisition  that  "no  hindernnco  may  bo 
t^rXrrSiS.-;??  •=°'°'^"^''^''  '''''''  -  --1  communieatLa 
ar^'w  Pnlnn'Tf T"  Commissioners;'  frora  Washington,  ex-Govcrnor  Laz- 
^HrntnTv  ?•  V  f  3'''°*"''''y',"°'U^^"J°'"  ^"^  M'CuUoch,  of  Tcxas,  tho  ccl- 
S  sVr  JTff  ^'""■'  1*  •"  •"'^  '"'  ^'"''  f"^'  ^^^^  City  Cohere  ihey'staid  till 
June  2),  and  after  proclaiming  a  general  ninnesty  and  free  pardon,  obtained 
permission  for  the  array  of  Utah  to  enter  the  Territory,  and^o  encamp  at  a 
place  not  nearer  than  forty  miles  from  New  Zion. 

June  12.  Mr.  Biigham  Young  treated  with  tho  Peace  Commissioners. 
1  •     °i  I     ,  '"  ^^'''^s'Jent's  pardon  "  for  all  treasons  and  seditions"  was  pro- 
claimed by  the  governor,  and  accepted  by  the  citizens. 

June  2(J  The  federal  troops,  having  left  Camp  Scott,  passed  through  tho 
deserted  City  of  the  Saints,  led  by  Lieutenant  Colonel  Cwkc,  who  rode,  ac- 
cording to  Mormon  rciwrt,  with  head  uncovered :  they  remained  for  two  days 
encamped  on  the  Jordan,  outside  the  settlement,  and  then  moved  twelve  to 
fitteen  miles  westward  for  wood  and  grass. 
1859.  The  Legislature  sat  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Judge  Charles  S,  Sinclair  attempted  to  break  faith  by  misinterpreting  tho 
amnesty,  and  nearly  caused  collision  between  the  federal  troops  and  tho  Mor- 
mons. ' 

The  Hon.  John  Crndlcbaugh,  ex-officio  judge  of  the  Second  Judicial  Dis- 
trict Court,  Utah  Territory,  quartered  a  company  of  110  men  in  tho  court- 
house and  public  buildings  of  Provo,  thereby  causing  disturbances:  Govern- 
or  Gumming  protested  against  the  proceeding. 

The  Dcscrdt  currency  i)latos  were  seized  at  Mr.  Brigham  Young's  house. 
Tabernacle  *"'^"''''  '""^""P''^''  ^y  ^^°  ^ar,  again  performed  in  tho 

Feb.  28  Troubles  between  tho  citizens  at  Rush  Valley  and  tho  federal 
troops  under  Gene,  nl  A.  J  Johnston,  commanding  tho  Department  of  Utah. 

March  25.  Mr.  Howard  Spencer,  nephew  of  Mr.  Daniel  Spencer,  was  se- 
verely wounded  by  First  Sergeant  Ralph  Pike,  Company  I  of  the  10th  Kcgi- 

Aug.  10.  Sergeant  Pike,  Bummoncd  for  trial  to  Great  Salt  Lake  Citv,  was 
sliot  itt  tlio  street,  it  is  supposed  hy  Mr.  1 1.  Spencer 

In  this  tnonth  tiio  citizens  of  Carson  Valley  declared  themselves  independ- 
ent of  Utah  Territory.  ' 
18C0.  Mr  Forney,  Indian  Superintendent,  Utah  Territory,  and  highly  hostile  to  tho 
Mormons,  was  removed. 


mm 


660 


THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS. 


Troubles  with  the  troops.    Mr.  Ilencage,  a  Mormon  citizen,  was  flogged 
at  a  cart's  tail  by  two  federal  officers  under  a  little  mistake. 

June  20.  Major  Ormsby  (militia)  and  his  force  destroyed  by  the  Indians 
near  Honey  Lake. 
1861.  The  federal  troops  evacuated  the  Land  of  the  Saints. 


\\ 


INDEX. 


\'^ 


Abori^nes,  American.    £re«  Indians. 
Absinthe.     See  gage,  wild. 
Academy  of  the  Tth  Ward  of  Great  Salt  Lake  CI  y, 
360.  ' 

Adobe  manufactory  near  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

Adobe  of  the  Western  World,  197. 

"     origin  of  the  name,  19T,  note. 
Adoption  among  the  North  American  Indians,  IIT. 

"        Mormon  principle  of,  269. 
Adultery,  Mormon  punishment  for,  426. 
Agricultural  Society  of  Deserct,  316. 
Agriculture,  list  of  premiums  awarded  at  the  an- 
nual show,  285-287,  note. 
Agriculture,  present  state  of,  in  Great  Salt  Lake 

Volley,  285. 
Alamo.    See  Cotton-wood-tree. 
Albino,  rarity  of  an,  among  the  Indians,  lOi 
Albinos  among  buffaloes,  61. 
Alcohol  distilled  in  Great  Salt  Tjike  City,  320, 
Alexander,  Colonel  B.,  his  hospitality,  90. 
Alg88  in  Great  Salt  Luke,  326. 
Algarobia  grandulosa,  or  meznuitc-tree,  7. 
Alkali  Lake,  153. 

"        "     Station  on  tlio  Platte  River,  51. 
Almanac,  the,  published  in  Utah,  263. 
America,  shape  of  the  continent  of,  6. 
American  Fork,  447. 
"Americanisms,  Dictionary  of,"  Bartlett's,  quoted, 

17,  notn. 
Animal  life,  absence  of,  on  the  Grand  Prairie,  18. 

"        "    in  the  American  Sahara,  64 

"      worship  of  the  American  Indians,  108. 
Animals  and  vegetables,  confusing  trivial  namai 

for,  in  America,  143,  note. 
Animals,  Indian  signs  for,  126. 

"        of  the  Uinta  Hills,  178. 

"        small  quantity  of  food  required  to  fatten, 
In  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  in  Somali-land,  149. 
Animals,  wild,  at  iJocky  Bridge,  159. 

"  "in  the  wooded  heights  of  the  Wind- 

River  ^Mountains,  165. 
Animals,  wild,  of  the  Black  Hills,  149. 

"  "     of  the  Rattlesnake  Hills,  153. 

"  "     of  Utah  Territory,  279. 

Antelope  at  Rocky  Rirlge,  159. 

"       Its  habitat,  67. 

"        Its  meat,  67. 

"        or  Church  Island,  194,  323,  32T. 

"        Bpi  Inge,  404,  465. 

"       the  (Antolocapra  Americana),  07. 
Ant-hills,  196. 

Apadomey  female  warriors,  113. 
Arapaho,  or  Dirty-Nose  Indians,  14',  143. 

"        loose  conduct  of,  117. 

"        sign  of  the  tribe  of,  183,  124 

"        their  lodges,  86. 

"        their  personal  appearance,  143,  144 

"        visit  of  some,  from  a  neighboring  camp. 

Archery,  Sioux  akill  In,  120. 

Arickaree,  cr  Roe  Indians,  37. 

Arms  of  the  North  American  Indians,  57,  119. 

"     ignorance  of  the  lower  grades  of  Knglish  of 

the  use  of,  174. 
Army  of  the  United  States,  remarks  on  the,  830. 

"     grievancus  of  the,  445. 


IS  W 


Arroyo,  fiumara  or  nnllah,  an,  70. 
Arrow-poison  of  the  Indians,  482. 
Arrows  of  the  North  American  Indian,  119, 120. 
Arrow-wood  (Viburnum  dcntatum),  119. 
Art  in  America,  remarks  on,  186,  137. 
Artemisia.    See  Sage,  wild. 
Asclepias  tuberosa,  common  in  Utah  Territory,  167. 
Ash  Hollow,  70. 
"        "        General  Ilamey'a  defeat  of  the  Brftifi 
Sioux  at,  70,  89. 
Ash-Hoi'jw  Creek,  70. 
Assiniboin  Indians,  97, 

"       their  present  habitat,  100. 
River,  100. 
Aurora  borealis,  a  splendid,  in  the  prairies,  61. 
Avena  fatua  of  the  Pacific  Water-shed,  139. 

Uadeau's  Ranch,  or  I.aram!e  City,  83. 
Badgers  at  Rocky-Bridge  Station,  161. 
Bartlett's  "Dictionary  of  Americanisms"  quoted, 

17,  note. 
Basswood,  17. 

"  Basswood  Mormons,"  17,  note. 
Bath,  the  hot  air  and  water,  of  the  North  Amer- 
ican Indian,  119. 
Bathing  and  its  dangers,  160. 
Battle  Creek,  447. 
Uauchmln's  Creek,  189,  190. 

•     "      valley  of,  189. 
Fork,  189. 
"      station  at,  189. 
"  Bear's  Rib,"  Mato  Chigukesa,  made  chief  of  the 

Bruio  Sioux,  89. 
Bear  Bay,  182. 

flesh  of  the,  as  food,  231. 
in  Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  347. 
of  the  BUck  Hills,  142. 
River,  182,  183,  325. 

"     coal  found  on  the  banks  of,  182. 
"     Mountains,  174. 
Springs,  In  Utah  Territory,  274 
the  grizzly,  192. 
traps,  347. 
Beavers  in  the  torrent-bed  of  Echo  Kanyon,  18T. 

"        tails  of,  as  fiKxI,  231. 
Bedatoftd,  populousness  of,  202. 
Bee,  a,  on  the  topmost  summit  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains, 165. 
Bee  House  in  Great  Salt  Ijike  City,  248. 
Beer,  or  Soda  Springs,  179. 

"     of  Groat  Salt  Lake  City,  320. 
Beet-root  grown  in  Great  Suit  Uke  Valley,  38T. 
Bell,  Governor,  of  Groat  Salt  Ijike  City,  216. 
B(mch-land  of  the  Great  Salt  Uke  Valley,  196. 
Bennett,  J,  C„  his  work  on  the  Mormons,  '206,  tiote. 
HIg  Field,  near  Great  Salt  Ijike  City,  198. 
Bighorn,  or  American  moufflon,  153, 155. 
Big  Kanyon,  199. 
Big  .Mountain,  100. 
"  "         pans  of  the,  190, 191. 

Bill  of  fare  at  a  supper  in  Great  Salt  I*ke  City,  983. 
Birds  near  Fort  Kearney,  48, 
"     of  Utah  Territory,  280. 
"     wild,  of  the  South  Poi-a  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains, 166, 
Bishops,  the  Mormon,  400. 
Bison  Amurioanus.    iS«e  Buffalo, 


562 

BJMonette,  M.,  the  Creole,  139. 
Bta<*f«et,  or  Sisahapa  IndlanB,  98 
sign  ofthe  tribe  of,  124. 


INDEX. 


Black  Hillg,  tiie,  91. 
ter,  142!    "'°'  ""'""^ '"  ''''''=''  "^«y  «ff''rd  ehel 

Black  Kock,  near  Great  Salt  Lake,  824. 

ni    u.    »,      ^'**  '^^oro  ">e,  330. 

Black's  Fork  River,  174,  176. 

"  "     vegetation  of,  i77. 178 

Bloomer  dross,  91,  92  ' 

Blue  River,  Big,  29 
"        "     Little,  38. 

ni      T,".        "     flah  Ofthe,  38. 

Bluffs  on  the  prairies,  29. 

Bogua,  origin  ofthe  term,  417,  note. 

??i!l^r5w '"'"'"'•.  """d-banli  at,  16. 

"Book  of  Mormon,"  the.    See  "Mormon  Book  of" 

Books  necessary  to  the  Western  trnTeJeA  ^ 

"     on  Mormonlsm,  list  of,  203,  noU 
Botany  of  Utah  Territory,  2S0. 

BouIders,h,,genaturalpiloof.Brigham'sPcak,136. 
n.,-.      J        ^'*'"  tJotton-wood  Kanvon   348 

Box-Elder  Creek,  ISO. 
Boys,  Indian,  (59. 

Bi^™:'a:';7':''''«^-'"'^8. 

Bread  made  in  the  prairies,  84. 

|rfr\n?hS,---'«"'^^'-'- 
Brewery,  Utah,  332. 

SdS''-'"*'^'"^  "t  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  341  34.1 

Bridger,ColoneUames,theceleb™teafp'^r!u8. 

nri.JL  ?".°.^  "''""'  Uinta  Hills,  176. 
Bridle  and  bit  used  on  tlie  pralrleL  31, 
Brigham-8  Kanyon,  194, 235.  '    * 

"         Teak,  130 


., „  "  "   '  the  driver's  storv  of  l.lfl  "Ti""  °™*  V"  *"  °""'"  regiono,  lao. 

S.rSariSr"""'""  -^«  -^  to  0.at  cedar  S^?32' "«"«'»-  -"'  "^ 


IButterfleld,  or  American  Einress  lt«T«».i-»  * 
government,  4.        "" '^™'i  "b  receipts  from 

Cache  Cave,  194. 

"     Valley,  336. 
Cacti  of  the  American  wUdemess.  64 
Cactus,  Intoxicating,  64,  note.      ' 
Calldarium,  the  Indian,  119 
California,  establishment  of  the  mnii  »„.-i, 

from  Missouri  to,  4.  Qail-coach  route 

California,  roads  £h)m  Great  Salt  Uke  Citv  to  dr,9 
11         ^^r'^  "Urface  of  t.^  l,!„d' %     *• 
CalnmBf    ,h™«  *<"  "f 'ting  out  for,  13S.       ' 
Calumet,  the,  r^rded  as  a  sacked  instrument, 

"""^n  ZKuT«  ■•  """'"^""^  «^  f-  Amer. 
Camp  Floyd,  description  of,  334. 
ggjj      "     hatred  of  the  Mormons  expressed  at, 

Camp  Floyd,  position  of  the  camp,  446 
"     second  visit  to,  Hi. 

the  sick  certWcate,  842 
"      trip  to,  331.  ' 

Scott,  near  Fort  Bridger,  179 
Canadians,  French,  settled  Si  the  Far  West.  162 
Canis  latrans,  the,  64.  »  <"  ar  v>  est,  lOi. 

^' are!  117.'  ""^  ''"  """  ^""^^  *'"''^'='"»  ^""^^ 

Cannon  River,  Indians  west  of,  96 

tart^-playtag  among  the  North  American  Indl«ns, 

Carriigton,  Albert  O.,  the  Mormon,  242, 

"         Island,  327. 
Carson  City,  494,  496. 

I!     Tr"    '»7'«88  violence  of,  288. 
House  Station,  189. 

t^'rpreter,'na  '""'"'**  ^"'"^  ""•*  ^^  to. 

Carson  Lake,  274, 491. 

"     River,  493. 
Carter,  Judge,  and  his  store,  179. 

mX^-  "'"^'  ^  ^o'""  "»  Moronism, 
Cattle  starved  In  some  regiono,  13& 
I     "     numbers  ofskeletons  seen.  133. 


«^.«  ^t"J^.  ^"'J'«'"i  their  habitat,  98.    See  Sioux 
Brutisch  Giovanni,  the  Venetian,  486. 
Bugs,  bed,  160,  note. 

"    other,  160,  note. 
Buffalo,  absence  of  the,  on  the  Grand  Prairie,  18 
annual  destruction  of,  50.  ' 


~..^v«  u,  i^iiiiintH  upontnee 
gradually  dlminlslilng,  53. 
Island,  the  first,  in  the  Missouri  41 
^^  the  name,  as  used  in  the  United  Stites,  70, 


»uiiuai  aestructlon  of,  50.  fctlTu^''  ""^  manners,  Indian  want  of,  118. 


80. 


Buffalo,  former  and  present  number  of,  50 
grass,  61.  ' 

"       herds  of,  48. 

j^      'n^jnn  mo'ie  of  hunting  It,  61,  63. 
"      Ita  li8bits°61  "^  '"*P"'^°8  the  skins  of,  63 

compaSi e^i^l^""^  P"^'"""^  "^  '••<'  ""^ral 
Buffalo,  three  great  families  of,  60. 
^^       uscji  to  which  it  is  put,  61,  62. 

Bullork  wVT"!?'"''"'  '^'"'  '"»«  meat,  49 
iiuiiock,  W.  T.,  the  .Mormon,  419. 

Bunch-grass,  189. 

lU  geographical  limits,  139. 

proposed  accliniatizntlon  of,  I40 


Cheyenne  Indians,  the,  99. 

sign  of  their  tribe,  124. 

their  chasti'v  ll. 
/•<i..„&  .     u.  their  lodges,  86. 

Chieftainship  among  tlie  Indians,  117. 
ChUdren,  Indian  fondness  for.  103. 
"        Indian,  59. 


S!:?i^r|S3r"^sSS 


.^Ti     -.      ;..    '  '^""■™»n  luaians, 
"Bunk  -  T''T7  I'"',".  ?'•'"■"'•«,  "«,  "Ote. 
W„™?^  i".'":"'  ''"''P'-l'')le  Station,  06. 

Bn.^'fiT"  ?''  "i'Ji'""''  "«'■■  habitat,  98. 
Butte  Station,  468. 

Buttes,  Rod,  trading-post  of,  140. 

Butterfleld,  or  American  Express,  route  ofthe,  8, 


ofthe  Mormons, 422-3. 
I  ofthe  Prophet,  249. 

Chimney  Rock,  the,  74. 
China-town,  Carson  River,  496. 
hhinche,  or  bug,  the,  160,  jiote. 
L.I .    *"      "■*"  '"  the  prairies,  48. 
Ui  pmonk,  or  Chlpmuk,  the,  169,  note, 
(.hippewas.     Hee  OJIbwa  Indians. 
Choctaw  Indians,  their  lodges,  86. 


^'"iJiThiT  V  'I'l.""""  '•»P<"*"'t  events  recorded 
In  the  Book  of  Mormon,  411. 

Chugwator,  the,  90. 

Jil)""l'„'.'"tJ'"'  seoloRlcal  formation  of,  176, 
Churchill,  Fort,  493.  ' 

Cities,  forniatinn  of.  Id  Utah  Territory,  291 
tity-Creck  Kanyon,  19&  ' 


INDEX. 


",  itB  receipts  from 


M,  64. 


I  mail-coach  route 

Uke  City  to,  452. 
the  land  of,  8. 
or,  13S. 
icred  instrument, 

!hinga,forAmer- 


ona  expressed  at, 

>,446. 

843. 

re. 

Far  West,  162. 
merican  Indians 

k 

Qericao  Indians, 

n,  242. 

!8. 

and  Indian  in- 


n  Mormonism, 

iwtliofthe,41. 

'uri,  41. 

Ited  States,  70, 

It  of,  118. 

rmonism,  204, 

5. 


!,  124. 
1. 


563 


ats  recorded 

176. 
,201. 


Climate  of  Platte  Bridge,  137. 

"      of  the  country  near  Fort  Bridger,  170, 180 
"      of  Utah  Territory,  276. 
Clothing  necessary  to  tlie  Prairie  traveler,  10. 
Coaches,  mail,  from  Missouri  to  California  and  Or- 
egon, 4. 
Coaches,  materials  of  which  they  are  made,  12. 
"       slow  rate  of  traveling,  6. 
"       the  "Concord  coach,"  12. 
Coal  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Hear  and  Weber 

Rivers,  and  at  Silver  Creek,  182. 
Coal  In  Nebraska,  141. 
"    in  Utah  Territory,  281. 
"    near  Sulphur  Creek,  182. 
"    on  the  banks  of  the  Platte  River,  141. 
Cold  Springs,  in  Kansas,  18. 
"         "        squatter  life  at,  19. 
"         "    .  Station,  487. 
Cold-Wttter  Ranch,  49. 
Colorado,  Rio,  fountain-head  of  the,  163. 
Columbia  River,  fountain-head  of  the,  162. 
Comauche  Indians,  the,  CO,  note. 
„     "  "        their  lodges,  80. 

Compass,  the  prairie,  48. 
"Concord  coach,"  description  of  the,  12. 
Conference,  description  of  u  Mormon,  302-9. 
Constitution  of  the  State  of  Deserc't,  289,  twte. 
Cookery,  dirty,  of  Indian  squaws,  80. 

"        bill,  in  the  prairies,  84 
Coon's  Kanyon,  194 
Copperas  Springs,  181. 
Corporation  of  Great  Salt  Uke  City,  315. 
Corrals,  mode  of  forming,  70. 
Corrill,  John,  his  work  on  Mormonism,  205,  note, 
Cotton  grown  in  Great  Salt  Lako  Valley,  287 
Cotton-weed,  the,  64. 
Cotton-wood  Creek,  SO. 

"  Kanyon,  Great,  343. 

"  "  "      celebration  of  Mor- 

mon Independence  Day  at,  341,  note. 
Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  Great,  timber  of,  284,  283. 
"  "  "       visit  to,  340. 

"  Lake,  Great,  847. 

"  Station,  in  Nebraska,  30,  49. 

"  tree,  the,  or  Alamo,  32. 

"  "     iU  uses,  32. 

Cougar,  the,  or  mountain  lion,  163,  and  note. 
Council  Bluifs,  the  natural  crossing  of  the  Mis- 
souri, 71,  note. 
Council  Hall  of  the  Seventies  in  Great  Salt  Lake 

City,  229. 
Council,  the  High,  of  the  Mormons,  401. 
Counties,  list  of,  of  Utah  Territory,  291-3. 
Coureurs  dcs  bols,  or  unlicensed  peddlei-s,  81. 
Court-house  Ridge,  the,  73. 

"  "      description  of  it,  72. 

"  in  Great  Salt  Luke  City,  417. 

"  interesting  case  tried  in  the,  417. 

Cox-,  Daniel,  his  idea  of  a  water  comnuinication 
between  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia  Rivers. 
102,  103,  note. 
Coyotes,  or  jackals  of  the  Western  Worid,  64 
"       at  Rocky-Bridge  Station,  100, 161. 
,        "        in  Echo  Kanyon,  188. 
"        near  Black's  Fork,  170. 
Croe  Indians,  their  habitat,  100. 
Creek,  Asli-Uollnw,  70. 
"      Battle,  447. 
"      Bacichmln's,  189, 190. 
"      Box-Klder,  130. 
"      Cedar,  334 
"     Cotton-wood,  80. 
"     Deer,  138. 
"      Dry,  483. 
"      Kgan's,  183. 
"     Grasshopper,  S''. 
"      Horse,  79. 
"     Horseshoe,  105. 
"      Kanyon.  Big,  101. 
"  "        Knst,  189. 

"     Kiowa,  Little,  79. 
"      La  Bont6,  135. 


Creek,  Meadow,  461. 
"      Mill,  196. 

Muddy,  Little,  140. 

Ncmehaw,  Big,  21. 

Omaha,  or  Little  Punkln,  Ti. 

Pacific,  160.  • 

Plum,  48. 

Quaking  Asp,  16i. 

Sandy,  71. 
"       Big,  167. 
"       Little,  167. 

Sheawit,  482. 

SKell,  466,  460. 

Silver,  182. 

Smith's,  480. 

Snow,  140. 

Strawberry,  161. 

Sulphur,  181. 

Thirty-two-mile,  88. 

Turkey,  30. 

Vermilion,  27. 

Walnut,  21. 

AVillow,  101, 461. 

Yellow,  183. 
Creeks,  or  "criks"  in  America,  21. 
Crickets  (Anabru^  simplex?),  scourge  of,  in  Utah 
Territory,  284.  it..         "lu 

Crops  in  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley,  20t 
Crosby,  Judge,  450. 
Cumming,  Hon.  A.,  governor  of  Great  Salt  lAke 

City,  215. 
Cumming,  Hon.  A.,  his  Impartial  discharge  of  hla 
duties,  216.  '  »■  8        u« 

Curriculum  of  the  Prairie  Indians,  107. 
Cursing  and  swearing  in  America,  14 
Cynomys  Ludovicianus,  or  prairie-dog,  66. 


Davies,  Elder  John,  his  Mormon  works,  214,  note, 
Dakotahs.     See  Sioux. 

"        meaning  of  the  name,  98. 
Dana,  Lieutenant,  compmjnon  de  voyage,  8. 
Dancing,  Mormon  fondness  for,  230. 
Danite  band,  account  of  the,  S69. 
Dark  Valley,  60. 

Davis,  Hoa  Jefferson,  his  estimate  of  the  cost  of  a 
railway  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  .1, 
note. 
Dayton,  Lysander,  the  Mormon  Bishop,  and  his 

wives,  448. 
Dead,  Indian  mode  of  burial  of  the,  122. 
Deep-Creek  Kanyon,  462. 
"         "      Station,  488. 
"         "      Valley,  463. 
Deer  Creek,  138. 
"        "      establishment  at,  139. 
"    kinds  of,  found  in  the  regions  east  of  tho  Rockr 
Mountains,  69.  ' 

Delaware  Indians,  account  of  the,  37. 

"  "       their  lodges,  80. 

Denmark  Ward  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  198. 
Denver  City,  lawless  violence  of,  288. 
DeseriJt,  agricultural  society  of,  286. 
alphabet,  the,  420. 
Store,  In  flreat  Salt  Lake  City,  249. 
tho  land  of  the  honev-bce,  16,1. 
"  Deser't  Xews,"  account  of  the,  256. 
Desert,  fertility  oflts  eastern  and  westemfrontieri,7. 
"      from  Fort  Kearney  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  6. 
Desert  mostly  uninhabited,  7. 
"      the  First,  167. 

the  Great,  of  Utah  Territory,  466,  468, 
Des  Moines  River,  Indians  west  of  the,  96, 
Devil's  Backbone,  the,  147. 

darning-needle,  or  dragon  fly,  60. 
Gate,  tlie  c  Icbrated  kanyon  of  the,  IM. 
Hole,  the,  488,  469, 
Lake,  Indians  of,  97. 
Post-offlce,  the,  IW. 
Diamond  Springs,  CO,  480. 
^,   "  "       tragedy  at,  60. 

Disease:  of  ITtah  Tprrit--.rr=  '7" 


564 


INDEX. 


Diuases  to  which  the  Indians  are  liable,  2T8.         { 

"  Divide,"  the,  between  the  Green  River  and  Black's 
Fork,  174. 

•'  Divide,"  the,  between  the  Little  Blue  and  Platte 
Kiverg,  83. 

"Divide,"  the,  between  the  Platte  and  Sweet-wa- 
ter Rivers,  its  sterility,  146. 

Divorce  among  the  Mormons,  427. 

Dogs,  IndUn,  bS,  472. 

Dog- Teutons  in  the  prairies,  62. 

Dolphin  Island,  8^7. 

Doxology,  Mormon,  remarks  on  the  fourteen  ar- 
ticles of,  387,  et  »eq.  ' 

Dragon-fly,  or  devil's  darning-needle,  60. 

Dress,  Indian,  67, 69. 

"     of  the  Mormon  fair  sex,  227. 

Drivers  of  mail-coaches,  their  immorality,  6. 
"      or  "  rippers,"  the,  of  the  wagon-train,  23. 

Drought,  trials  of,  on  the  counterslope  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  167. 

Dry  Creek,  483. 

Dubail,  Constant,  the  woodman,  466. 

Dug-out,  Joe,  and  his  station,  834, 444. 

Duat-storms  in  the  Valley  of  the  Platte,  76. 
"  of  Utah,  276,  450, 461. 

"  on    the   counterslope   of  the  Rocky 

Mountains,  168. 

East  Kanyon  Creek,  189. 
Eau  qui  court,  or  Niobrara  River,  40, 72. 
Echo  Kanyon,  184. 
"  "       beavers  In  the  torrent-bed  of,  187. 

"         "       Station,  187. 
^'  "       the  Mormons'  breastworks  in,  187. 

"  "       vegeUUon  of,  187. 

Education  in  Deaerdt  and  England  compared,  646. 

"        in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  422,  123, 425. 
Egan,  Mafor  Howard,  453. 
Egan's  Creek,  183. 
"      Springs,  464, 456. 
"      Station,  467. 
Eggs  and  bacon,  a  constant  dish  in  the  West,  38. 
loght-mlle-Spring  Kanyon,  465. 

"         Springs,  466. 
Elder,  rank  of,  in  the  Mormon  hierarchy,  403. 
Elk,  the  (Cervus  Canadensis),  habitn*.  of,  68. 
Emigrants,  diseases  to  which  they  are  liable,  279. 
>'         Mormon,  arrival  of,  at  Great  Salt  Lake 
City,  a2ft-«. 
"  Emigration  Road"  in  Kansas,  16. 
liaiigration  Kanyon,  193. 

"         Mormon  system  of,  295. 
"         statistics  of,  297. 
Endowment  House  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  220. 

"  "     mysteries  of  the,  220. 

Ensign  Peak,  spirit  of  Joseph  Smith  on,  196. 
Evening  in  the  prairies,  38. 
Explorers,  list  of  the  principal,  of  the  United  State!, 
who  have  published  works  on  the  aul^ect,  171, 
172,  note. 
Eye  of  the  Indian,  105. 
"Eye-opener,"  an,  62. 

Faces,  Indian,  106, 106. 

Faith,  articles  of  the  Mormon,  837,  et  seq. 

Farms,  Indian,  477. 

Farriery  of  the  Indions,  119. 

Febrile  aiTectlons  In  Great  Salt  Lake  Ciiy,  279. 

Feet  of  the  Indians,  104. 

Fences,  "  snake,"  of  the  West,  188. 

Feramorz,  Colonel,  848. 

Ferris,  B.  J.,  his  work  on  Mormonism,  206,  iiote. 

"      Mrs.,  her  work  on  "The  Mormons  atllome," 

206, 207,  note. 
Ferry,  the  I/>wer,  over  the  Platte,  140. 
Fote  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  occmmt  of  a,  230-2. 
Fetlchism  of  the  North  Ann;  i '       Indians,  107. 
"Fever,  the  I'rairic,"  22. 
1 :  r^rs  considered  as  a  tropli;       the  Indians,  142, 

tiot*. 
■"Ireflle-,  or  lightning-bugs,  80. 
':  its  1,  y.airic,  S3. 


Fires,  prairie,  mode  of  stopping,  99. 

Fir-trees  of  Great  Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  346. 

Fish  of  the  streams  flowing  from  the  Black  Hills, 
134. 

Fish  of  the  Sweetwater,  152. 
"    oftheWasach  I^kes,343. 
"    of  Utah  Ij«ke,  834. 
"    Springs,  460. 
"    water  of  Great  Salt  Lake  fatal  to,  826. 

Fiumara.     See  Arroyo. 

Floods  of  the  Missouri,  16. 

Flowers  on  the  banks  of  La  Grande  Platte  River, 
41,  4%  63. 

Folles  Avoines  Indians,  06,  note. 

Food  prejudices,  66. 

Foot  of  Kldge  Station,  near  the  Sweetwater,  169. 

Fort  Bridger,  173. 
"    Churchill,  493, 494. 

Forts,  frontier,  a  camel  corps  proposed  for,  40. 
"  "        oftheUnitedState8de8cribed,41,49, 

"  "       remarks  on  the  army  system  of  out- 

posts in  the  United  States,  43,  44. 

FoZ' River  Indians,  their  tents,  86. 

the,  01'  lUvitre  des  Puantes,  19. 

Foxes  in  Echo  Kanyon,  187. 

Frdmont,  Colonel,  his   exploration  of  the  Rock> 
Mountains,  164. 

Fr6mont,  Colonel,  his  traveling  proprieties,  149. 
Island,  823. 
Peak,  In  the  Rocky  Mountains,  168,161, 

"      its  height  above  sea-level,  164. 
Slough,  63. 
Spring:!,  station  at,  53. 

"■       the  model  veranda  at,  53. 

Frogtown,  or  Fairfield,  3.'!6. 

Fruit  In  the  gardens  of  the  Prophet,  209. 
"     wild,  of  Utah  Territory,  288. 

Funeral  ceremonies  of  the  Sioux  Indians,  122. 

Fustigator,  the  mammoth,  of  the  American  wagon- 
ers, 24. 

Gambling,  fondness  of  the  North  American  Indian 

for,  117. 
Game,  abundance  of,  in  the  Wind-River  Mount- 
ains, 68,  166. 
Gamma,  or  gramma,  grass  of  the  slopes  west  of 

Fort  Laramie,  7. 
Gardens  of  the  Prophet,  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

269. 
General  Johnston's  Pass,  464. 
Geological  formation  at  Fort  I<aramte,  90. 
"  "  of  Church  Butte,  176. 

"  "  of  ICcho  Kanyon,  184. 

"  "         of  the  banks  of  the  Platte  at 

Snow  Creek,  141. 
Geological  formation  of  the  Black  Hills,  134. 
"  "  of  the  gold  diggings,  484. 

"  "         of  the  Mauvaises  Torres,  or 

Bad  Lands,  72. 
Geological  formation  of  the  Rattlesnake  Hills,  153. 
"  "  of  the  valley  of  the  Green 

River,  169. 
Geological  formation  of  Utah  Territory,  194. 
"  "         westward  of  the  fort,  91. 

Germans  in  the  prr'r'es,  their  behavior,  62. 
Gibraltar  Gote, ' 

"Gift,  an  Indian,    .-  ■  i     "-•^.  iOS. 
Gilston,  Jim,  of  iri-Jo;      ''v 
GIris,  Indian,  6P 
Gold  found  In  :  ■..*■<:    .ountnin«,166. 

"    found  In  Utah  i  en itory,  2S1. 

"    mines  near  the  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  270, 

271. 
Golden  Pass  of  Emigration  Kanyon,  193. 
Gospel,  grotesque  accounts  of  the  manner  In  which 

the  Indians  of  old  received  the,  109. 
Government  of  the  Mormons,  801. 
Grain,  quantity  produced  In  the  Valley  of  Great 

Salt  lAke  284. 
Grand  Island,  In  the  Platte  River.  89. 

"     Klver,  Neosho,  or  White  Water,  the  Osagei 

settled  on  the,  84. 


G 
G 

G 
G 
G 

Q 

G 

O 
G 

G 

G 


Gi 

Gi 

Gi 
Gi 

Gi 

Gi 


Gi 


Gi 
Gi 

Gi 

Gi 

Or 

Gi 


INDEX. 


666 


Qranlte  Mountain,  4B4. 

"      Rook,  402. 
Orape,  the  Colifornian,  345. 
Oraaa,  bunch,  T. 
"     salt,  148. 
Graases  of  the  elopes  west  of  Fort  Laramie,  T. 
Grasshopper  Orcek,  21. 
Grasshoppers  (OilJipoda  corallipcs),  clouds  of,  In 

the  prairies,  09. 
Grasshoppers,  ravages  of,  09,  TO. 

"  Bcourgo  of,  in  Utah  Territory,  284. 

Grattan,  Lieutenant,  his  fatal  fight  with  the  Si- 
oux, 88. 
Graves  of  the  Mormon  emigration  route,  174. 
Giazlng-grounda  in  Utah  Territory,  284. 

"  "        of  the  West,  their  fertility  and 

freedom  from  sickness,  T. 
Greasewood  at  Black's  Fork,  170. 

"  the  (Obione  or  Atriplex  canesccnH), 

153. 
Great  Salt  Lake,  account  of  an  excursion  to,  322. 

"       "■       "     air  on  the  shores  of,  328. 

"       "       "      bathing-place  on,  329. 

"       "       "      buoyancy  of,  329. 

"       "       "      history  and  geography  of,  324. 

"       "       "      islands  of,  327-8. 

"       "       "     lands  immediately  about,  D30. 

"      "       "     quantity  of  salt  in,  325. 

"       "       "     (Jity,  Aoailemy  of  the  7th  Ward 

in,  360. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  admirable  site  of,  190. 

"       "      "        "     Agricultural  Society  of  Dcs- 

erot,  316. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  arrival  of  caravan  of  emi- 
grants at,  225-6. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  cheapness  of  the  neccasarieti 

of  life  at,  320. 
Great  Suit  L^ko  City,  coinage  of,  366. 

"       "       "       "     conduct  of  fedcrol  officials 

at,  421. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  corporation  of,  315. 

"       "•      "       "     Council  Hall  of  tlio  Seven- 
tics  at,  229. 
Groat  Salt  Lake  City,  course  of  life  in,  418-19. 

"       "       "       "•     Court-house  of,  417. 

"       "      "       "•     crops  in  the  valley  of,  201. 

"       "      "       "     Denmark  Ward  in,  198. 

"      "      "       •'     departure  from,  441-3. 

"       "•       "       "     eastern  wall  of  Great  Salt 

Lake  VaUey,  irS. 
Great  Salt  I^ke  City,  education  in,  422,  423,  435. 

"       "       "        "      Endowment  House  at,  220. 

"       "       "       "     excursions  in,  322. 

"       "       "       "     first  view  of,  193. 

"       "      "       *'     foundation  of  the,  288. 

"       "      "       "     gold  mines  in  Utah,  271. 

"       "       "       "     Governor  Cumming,  215. 

"       "       "       "     hand-labor,  articles  of,  in, 

320. 
Great  Salt  T.ake  City,  Historian  and  Recorder's 

Office  in,  419,  420. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  houses  of,  197,  198. 

"       "       "       "     industry  in,  316. 

"       "       "        "     LionllouFeat,  240. 

"       "      "        "     list  of  articles  of  industry 

at,  317-20, 7wte. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  militia  of,  354-C. 

"       "      "        "     murders  committed  in  and 

near,  339. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  newspapers  published  in. 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  no  market-place  in,  201. 
"       "       "        "     prices,  £20-1. 
"       "       "        "     principal  schools  in,  425. 
*'       "       "       "     promulgation  of  the  Consti- 
tution at,  289,  note 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  public  opinion  in,  197. 
"       "       "       "     roads  from,  to  CaUfomia, 
469.  ' 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  safety  of,  224. 

"       "       "        "     Salt  Lake  HouRo  Hotel.  801. 
*'       "       "        "     schools  m,  340. 


Great  Salt  Lake  City,  shops  in,  217. 

"       "  "  "  Social  Hall  and  fites  at, 230. 

"       "  "  "  streets  of,  210, 217. 

"  .     "  "  "  supply  of  water  in,  216, 217. 

"  "  "  the  Tabomacie  at, 'J19, 280. 

"       "  "  "  taxes  of,  316. 

"       "  "  "  Temple  Block  at,  217-23. 

"       "  "  "  the  Bee  House  at,  240. 

"       "  "  "  the  Bowery  at,  220, 268. 

"  "  "  tlie  bulwarks  of  Zion  at,  19T. 

"       "  "  "  thel'cnitcntiaryat,271. 

"       "  "  "  the  Prophet's  iiouse  at,  234, 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  the  public  and  private  of- 

flees  of  the  Prophet  at,  240. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  the  public  library  at,  236. 

"       "       "        "     the  River  New  Jordan,  238. 

"       "       "        "     view  of,  from  the  Wasach 

Mountains,  369. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  visit  to  the  Prophet  at,  237-8, 
Green  River,  formation  of  the  valley  of  the,  169. 

"         "      fountain-head  of  the.  162. 

"         "      its  breadth  and  depth,  171. 

"        "     its  length,  volume,  and  direction, 

171.  a    .  »  . 

Green  River,  its  tributaries,  167. 

"         "     Macarthy's  station  on  the,  170. 

"        "     Mountains,  the,  153. 

"         "      salmon  trout  of  the,  170. 

"        "      Spanish  and  Indian  names  of  the, 

171.  ' 

Grecn-Rlver  Station,  170, 172. 

"        "     wool-producing  country  in  the  basin 
of  the,  284. 
Grounds,  Bad,  or  mauvaisM  terres  of  the  United 

States,  0. 
Grouse,  pinnated,  142. 

Guenot,  I^iuis,  his  bridge  over  the  Platte,  141. 
Guesp,  George,  the  Cherokee  chief,  35. 
Guittard's  Station,  27. 

"  "       the  host  at,  27. 

Gunnison,  Lieutenant,  his  work  on  Mormonism, 

203,  204,  note. 
Gunnison,  Lieutenant,  his  resumi  of  Mormonism, 

Gunnison,  Lieutenant,  murder  of,  339. 
Gunnison  s  Island,  327. 

Hair,  Indian  mode  of  dressing  tlie,  50. 
Half-breeds,  Knglish  and  French,  compared,  80. 

"  women,  80. 

Halfway  Iiouse,  halt  at  the,  63. 

"  "      the  store  at  the,  53. 

Ham's  Fork,  174. 

"         "     the  wrctclied  station  at,  174,  175. 
Ilnnd-labor,  articles  of,  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

320. 
Hands  of  the  Indians,  104. 
Hanks,  tlio  redoubtable  Mr.  Ephe,  the  Danlte,  191. 

"      stories  of,  193. 
Ilapsaroke  Indians,  or  Les  Corbcaux,  124. 
"  "        sign  of  the  tribe,  124. 

Harney,  General,  his  defeat  of  tlio  Brflio  Sioux  at 

Ash  Hollow,  70,  89. 
Hnrrowgate  Springs  In  the  Waaacli  Mountains, 

360. 
Hat  Island,  327. 
Hawkins's  ritics,  9. 

Ilayden,  Dr.  F.  V.,  his  opinion  on  coal  In  Nebras- 
ka, 141. 
Jleat  of  the  sun  beyond  Ham's  Forlc,  176. 
Heath-lion,  the,  142. 
Hickman,  Bill,  the  Danlte,  191,  344. 
Hierarchy  of  the  Mormons,  399,  403. 
High  Mountain,  4,').S. 
Historian  and  Recorder's  Office  in  Great  Salt  Lake 

City,  419,  426. 
Holmes,  the  ungenlal  man,  177. 
Horse  Creek,  79. 

"        "      breakfast  at,  84. 

"        "      inmates  of  the  station  at  80,8!. 
Ilorsc-fly,  a  grccQ-hcaded,  168. 


I 


'  1 


566 


INDEX. 


Horseshoe  Crcok,  gold  found  at,  1G6. 

"         Station,  01. 
Ilomes,  Indinn,  6U,  57-8. 

'■'■      of  the  Dakotali  Indiana,  99. 
IIoree-steHltng,  puuiulimcnt  for,  in  the  Western 

States,  90,  a60. 
Hotels  in  Great  Salt  Lalie  City,  201. 

"     in  tlie  Far  Went,  201,  note. 
Hot  springs  near  Great  Salt  Lnko  City,  230. 

"         "•      analysis  of  tlie  water  of,  230,  no?fl. 
Houses,  materials  of,  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  107, 

198. 
Hownril,  Mr. ,  4BT. 
Humboldt  Kivcr,  4S0. 
Ilunkpupa  Indians,  93, 
Ilunkpatidan  Indians,  97. 
Hunter,  President  Bisliop,  220. 
Huntingdon  Valley,  4S0. 
Hurricanes  of  Scott's  BluflTs,  7S. 
Hyde,  Jolin,  his  work  on  Monuonism,  208,  note. 

Ice  springs,  168. 

Ilianktonwan  Indians,  their  habitat  and  present 

condition,  97. 
Imuiorulity  of  tlio  mail-coach  drivers,  5. 
Indcpcudeucu  Day,  New,  of  tlio  Mormons,  251, 

3441. 
Independence  Day,  New,  celebration  of,  .'i49,  nnte. 
India,  remarlcs  on  the  army  syatem  of  outposts  In, 

4y,  45. 
Indian  arms,  67, 110. 

"      arts,  118-19. 

"      boys  and  girls,  69, 101 

"      camp,  an,  472. 

"      character,  102-3. 

"     creed,  few  rites  and  ceremonies  of  the,  116. 

"     curriculum  of  tliu  Prairie,  107. 

"      dancing,  110. 

"     departments  of  the  United  States,  manage- 

nient  of  tlie,  132. 
Indian  dross,  57,  59. 

"      fanns,  477. 

"      lighting,  43. 

"      lialf-breeds,  80. 

"      "  liome,"  tlu',  33. 

"      horsos,  60,  67-«. 

"      kleptomania,  00, 102, 103. 

"      marriages,  110. 

*'     inodo  of  liuntlng  the  b'lffalo  ind  preparing 

the  skins,  51,  52. 
Indian  modu  I'f  stampedl.ig  animals,  TO-7, 

"         "      of  wearing  the  hair,  50. 

"     names,  115. 

"      population  In  the  middle  of  the  last  and 

prpHcnt  centuries,  90,  note. 
Indian  prejudice  against  speaking,  80. 

"      religion  of  the,  U)7. 

"      reservation,  distribution  of  the,  32. 

'•      scalping,  112. 

"     skull,  form  and  dimensions  of  tlie,  105. 

"      smoking,  110,111-1?. 

'•      siunmer,  the,  79,  483. 

"      the  imniu,  a  mlsuunior  for  American  alHi- 
riglnes,  56. 
Indian  villagn,  description  nf  the  remove  of  an,  60. 

"      vIllagcH  and  tents,  S6. 

"      wiimen,  KKI. 
ludlanN  account  "f  the  Pawnees,  30. 

"       Iwst  scheme  for  preserving  the  race  "f,  3.'i. 

'^       causes  which  rapidly  thiu  tlie  trllwsmen, 
34. 
Indians,  diflicultlnii  attending  the  schema  of  cIvUI- 

ratliin  nf  the,  30. 
Indians,  etfccts  of  alcohol  among  the  various  trilies 

"f,  82. 
Indians,  ferocity  of,  and  whites    -0. 

"       gmtesiiue  accounts  of  •   e  manner  in  which 
they  formerly  received  llie  ri'if|sl,  109 
Indians,  Imw  treateil  by  llii   liiili  il  Slates,  32. 
"       kindness  of  the  .Mcirniii>«  !■>  the,  246. 

"       ionguagai  gf  Uut  IMUtmUMix  Ultnui  of, 
69.  not*. 


Indians,  Lieutenant  Weed's  defeat  of  the  Goah 

Yutas,  407,  470. 
Indians,  mistaken  public  opinion  of  the,  and  of 

tlieir  ancestors,  55. 
Indians,  proposals  for  raising  native  regiments  of, 

47. 
Indians,  the  American  phihinthropist'g  mode  of 

civilizing  the,  85. 
Indians,  the  Comanchcs,  01,  iiote. 
"       the  dignity  of  chief,  117. 
"       their  arrow-poison,  482. 
"       tlieir  course  of  life,  117. 
"       their  future  considered,  lOL 
"       their  "home,"  32. 
"       tlieir  mui-der  of  Loscior  and  Applegate, 
484. 
Mdians,  their  opinion  of  their  own  strength,  101. 
"       tlieir  progress  toward  extinction,  102. 
"       their  Turanian  origin,  65. 
"       the,  of  Utah  Territory,  473. 
"       the  Bi|uaw8,  59. 
"       the  Yutas,  474-8. 

"       total  number  of,  on  the  prairies  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  33. 
Indians,  tribes  and  sub-tribes  of  the  Sioux,  90. 
Industry  in  (ireat  Salt  Lnko  <;ity,  SIO. 

"         list  of  articles  of,  317-320,  note. 
Intoxicating  drink,  a  new,  24,  (lo^e. 

"  "      niodo  of  manufacturing  "In- 

dian liquor,"  81-3. 
Intoxicating  drink,  one  made  from  a  cactus,  C4, 

note. 
Irish  women  in  the  West,  175. 
Iron  County,  conl  and  Iron  found  in,  283. 

"    founii  ill  Utah  Territory,  'iSl. 
Island,  Antelope,  or  (Uiurch,  104,  823,  82T. 
"      llonlioiiiiue,  15. 
"      Ciirrington,  327. 
"      l^'edar,  the  first,  In  the  MIbboutI,  41. 
"      Di.lphln,  327. 
"      Fremont,  328. 
"      Grande,  in  the  Platte  Uivcr,  39. 
"      (!unnl.>'on's,  8i7. 
"       Hat,  337. 
"       Staiisbiiry,  327. 
Islets  of  l.a  Grande  Pintle  River,  40. 
Itnzipkii,  Sans  Arc,  or  No-Bow  Indians,  their  Iml)- 

Itati  93. 
Itinerar}-,  the  emigrant's,  606. 

"        of  the  mall  routi^  from  Great  Salt  Ijiko 
City  to  San  Francisco,  511. 

lark,  the  Arapaho  Indian,  and  hl«  squaw,  140, 
147. 

laikal,  the,  of  tlio  Western  ..•orld,  04.  See  Vau 
yiite. 

hiciiues,  Elder  ,Jnhn,  his  Mdniion  works,  212,  note. 

.lames  Ulver,  Indians  of,  97. 

lesiiltlsm  as  a  means  of  civilization  of  tba  In- 
dians, !;5. 

liuisen  weed,  111. 

lo,  St.,  city  nf,  12, 16. 

Inlinston's  Settlement,  461. 

loiies,  I'.lder  Dan,  his  Monnon  works,  213,  note. 

iliirdan,  New,  Its  course  In  the  Wasaeli  Mounlains. 
082.  ' 


lurdan,  New,  the  river  in  Groat  Holt  Lake  City, 

233,  il25. 
".Inruailu,"  nr  day's  mnreh,  lOT. 
.luuctiou-Itoiise  Itiineli,  5.1. 

Kamas  Prairie.  182,  and  nnti'. 
Kane,  Cnlnnel  T.  L.,  account  nf  him,  504,  note. 
"  "         "      his  work  on   tlio  Mormons, 

2iU,  note. 
Kansiua,  a  specimen  nf  sipiatter  Ilfo  In,  10. 

"       "  bleeding,"  10. 

"       "gales,"  31. 

"       prairies  of,  17. 

"      rainy  season  in,  10. 

'*        rlmiilitw  ill,  IB. 

"  Kouiu-Nobnukk  Act,"  posslns  of  the,  88. 


It  of  the  Gosh 
of  the,  and  of 
'e  regiments  of, 
ipUt's  mode  of 


)1. 

and  Applegate, 

strength,  101. 
uctiou,  1U2. 


irairies  and  the 

le  Sioux,  9tt. 

ol6. 

,  note. 

e. 

ifacturing  "In- 

n  a  cactus,  C4, 


n,  289. 
123,  321. 

iouri,  41, 

',  39. 

rO. 

lans,  their  hal>- 

Ireit  Bait  Ijiko 

Is  squaw,  14(1, 
,  (A.  See  Cm. 
orkK,  212,  note. 
ton  of  the  In- 


t«,  ain,  nntf. 
u'h  Mountiilnp, 

alt  Lako  City, 


I,  8(14,  note. 
thd  Monuon?, 

In,  10. 


)fth«,  88. 


INDEX. 


567 


Kanyon  Creek,  Big,  191.  i  Lawrence  Fork,  Tl. 

"        "    station  at,  191.  |        "  u     origin  of  the  name  72. 

J?f^rL*^5l5'  ^'"  ^'"'  *^"'''  I""^'y  °'  theUadplant  (Amorphe  canebcens),  the,  of  the  Amer 


water  of  the,  832. 

Kanyon,  the  Devil's  Gate,  161. 

Kanyons,  stupendous,  of  Northern  Mexico,  139, 
note. 

Kanyons,  the,  of  America,  139,  note. 

Kearney,  Fort,  41. 

"  "     longitude  of,  6. 

Kelly,  W.,  I'jiq.,  J.  I'.,  his  chapters  on  Mormon- 
inm,  204,  note. 

"Keening"  the  dead  practiced  among  the  In- 
dians, 122. 

Kennedy,  the  Ras  Kafilnh,  4B6. 

Kennedy's  Hole,  400. 

Kcnnekuk,  In  Kansas,  halt  at,  19. 

Klckapoo  Indians,  description  of  the,  20. 

"  "       mode  of  building  the  tents  of 

the,  85. 

Kicknpoo  Indians,  strength  of  the  tribe  of,  20. 
"  "       the,  10. 

Khnbttll,  Ilcber  C,  his  address  in  the  Bowery,  202. 
"  "         the  president,  account  of,  241. 

Kinnikinlk  smoked  by  tlio  American  Indian,  111. 
"         tlie,  31.  ' 

Kiowa  Creek,  Little,  T9. 

"      Indians,  lodges  of  tlie,  88. 

A'     ,„/'       orI'rairle-men,slgnofUiotrIbeof 
the,  124. 

Klslskadjlwan  Iliver,  Indians  on  the,  100, 
Kit,  the  traveler's,  9. 
Klyuksa,  or  breakers  of  law,  Indians,  97. 
Kleptomania  of  the  Indians,  fiO. 

"  ofthoSjioux,  102, 103. 

La  Bont«  Creek,  136. 

"Ladles"  In  the  Tralrics,  91,  02. 

Lake  Alkali,  153. 

"    Carson,  2T4,  491. 

"    Coltim-wood,  Great,  347. 

"    Devil's,  97. 

"    Great  Salt,  194,  322,  32X 

"    Little  Salt,  2T4. 

"    Mlnlswakan,  100. 

"    Mono,  274. 

"    Mud,  274. 

"    Nicollet,  27(. 

"    of  the  I  lot  Springs,  106. 

"    of  the  Wasach  MciunUlns,  847. 

"    of  the  Woods,  100. 

"    I'yrnmlcl,  274. 

"    qui  I'lirle,  9(1. 

"    Haleratus,  147. 

"    Stone,  9(1. 

"    Truverse,  90. 

"I  tall,  or  Sweet-water  Rcicrvolr,  274,  332, 

Lake,  Walker's,  274. 
"     Wlnnliieg,  lOO. 
Tjikes,  Three,  1(11. 

I.anre,  the,  of  the  North  American  Indian,  119. 
Ijind-tiuure  of  tlui  .Mormons,  290. 
Laiirter's  (  iit-dlT,  IttS. 
Langunge,  Its  i>ci;ullnrllle«,  121 


lean  wilderness,  04. 
lieaf-ahootcr  Indians,  90. 
Lenther  manufactured  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

344. 
Ix-cches.  American,  400-7. 
legislative  Assembly  of  Utah  Territory,  810. 
IvchI  City,  447. 

Liljorty-pohw  in  the  United  States,  251. 
Library,  public,  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  236. 
Lightning-bug,  or  firc-flv,  CO. 
Lignite  in  Nebraska,  141. 
Lion  House  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  240. 

"    tlio  mountain,  or  cougar,  153,  and  note. 
Litters,  Indian,  68. 
Little  Mountain,  192. 

"     Mr.,  his  tannery,  344. 
Locknau's  Station,  21. 

"  "       vegetation  of,  2t 

Lodge-Pole  Creek,  or  Fork,  04. 

"        "    Station,  CO. 

"       "         "       squalor  and  wrctchednosa  of, 
CO.  ' 

London,  Mormon  meetlng-housea  in  and  .\bout,  301, 

note. 
Long-chin,  tlie  Indian  murderer,  85. 

"    Valley,  471. 
Look-out  Fort,  97. 

I.ouls,  St.,  altitude  and  temperature  of,  159. 
Loup  Fork,  ferry  acnws,  71,  note. 
Lynch,  Lieutenant  W.  F.,  his  proprieties  of  travel, 

150. 
Lynn,  Catlmrino  Lewis,  her  work  on  Mormonlsm, 

200,  note.  ' 

Macarthy,  Mr.,  lils  establishment,  170, 172. 
"  his  roHgh-and-timible,  ls:i. 

of  (Iroim-Ulver  Station,  170. 
Mail-coach  route  from  Missouri  to  California  and 

Oregon,  4. 
Muil-coach,  slow  rate  of  traveling,  5. 
Main,  or  Whisky  Street,  in  Groat  Salt  Lake  City, 

*17. 
Maize,  question  as  to  Its  being  Indigenous  to  Amer- 

l(■l^  110,  note. 
.Majors,  Mr.  Alexander,  his  efforts  to  rofom  the 

morals  of  liia  nuiil  ilrlvers,  5. 
Manklzltah,  or  Whlte-ljirth  HIvor,  72. 
Manna  In  Great  Salt  Ijike  \'alley,  '.JSL 
Manufacturers  In  Utah  Terrltoiy,  317-20. 
Marcy,  Major,  73.  " 

„  ",  "       I'ls  "  ITalrlo  Traveler"  iiuoted,  4. 

Market-place,  absonco  of  a,  in  Great  Salt  Lake 

t'ity,  201. 
MaiTinge  among  the  Mormons,  427,  4.12. 
„    "    ,    ni»i"'K  the  North  Amerlcn  Indians,  110. 
Marshall,  .lames  W.,  his  discovery  of  Cailforulan 

gold,  3r)0. 
Martin,  MIcliael,  his  store,  173. 
Marjsvllhs  or  ol.l  i'almetto  City,  trade  of,  89. 
Materialism,  Monnon,  8H4. 
Matrlya,  the  "Hcatt.ring  Hear," 


,, .■■•'  — ■      ■  ■- "«  ."...,    death  of,  SO. 

',     a    -. ;  ■-■•  '*'""*'als''s  Tenes,  or  Itad  Ijinds.  extent  of  the  79 

men's  ft.^t  and  pr.«n..sIvo  step.  In,  Mdewakantouwatntidlans.  H  "llliatl'rof  [lie,  m 

"  "        habitat  of  the,  90. 

Meadow  Cr^ek,  4fi1,  452. 
Medical  men  in  Great  .Salt  Lake  City,  2TS. 
Medldne-inan  of  the  Indians,  1(18. 

"        the  Indians'  knowledge  of,  118,  110. 
Meilloliies  necessary  to  the  Western  traveler,  0,10. 
.Menomeuo  Indians,  habitat  of  the,  90. 

"  "        tents  of  the,  HO. 

Meteorology  of  Utah  Territory,  275. 
MethiNiisni,  fmindatlon  nf,  ll(i5, 
Mexico,  Northern,  stuiMUutous  kanvmis nf,  l.W,  nnfK 
Mer.>|ullp,  or  muskeot-treo  (Algarobl.  glandulosa),7. 
Midway  Station,  49. 


121. 
Lang(mge,  the,  of  the  Sioux,  190, 

"         the  panUimime  of  the  Indians,  or  sign 
system  of,  123.  " 

Languages  of  llin  Northeastern  Indlan^  00,  note, 
Larnmlu  City,  88.  '      ' 

"  "     prices  of  skins  at,  88. 

"        Fort,  rliniatir  and  koII  hI,  (10, 

"  "      formerly  K(i-t  .John,  00. 

"  "      longitude  of,  0. 

"         "     vegetation  of  the  slopes  wcit  of,  7. 

"      Illlls,  geography  of  the,  134. 

"        I'eak,  79. 
Tjiramle's  Fork,  90. 

Last.Tln>bur  Station,  71,  note. 


:ir  t'liUrd  Htatc: 


MiUtarv  !!!'•!.-• 

are  divi(l,.(i,  4'J,  45,  nnl,. 
Mllttl*  force  of  Uroat  Salt  Lak*  City,  804-0> 


,1 
[ 


(■ 


;■ 


Hi 


568 


INDEX. 


I 


"of  theflarm'  ^"""^  ^"'""'  ^'°'""  "^'''"'^  ^'^T"  Po'yeamy,  3T3,  426,  m,  431,  433. 


ofthe,  336,  33T. 
Milk  River,  Indians  of,  100. 

'^  ^^  (Awlepias  tuberosa)  common  In  Utah 
lerrltory,  16T. 

Mllk-slcknesfi  of  the  Western  States,  284. 

Mill  Crcok,  1116. 

Miller,  Captiiin,  of  Milleraville,  215. 

Miller's  Station,  496. 

MillerBvill.^,  on  Smith's  Fork,  177. 

Mills,  saw,  a  night  passetl  in  one  ofthe,  343. 
"    in  the  kanyons,  347. 

Miniswaknn  Lake,  100. 

Minnesota  Indians,  90,  97. 

Mlnnlkanye-wozhipu  Indians,  habitat  ofthe,  83. 

Mirage,  u  cnrions,  47,  48. 

"      on  the  counterBlopo  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains, 104. 

Mlseionarits,  ccrtifloatcs  supplied  to,  Vm,  S.'H,  note 

"  frui;    I  irent  Salt  Ijiko  (Jitv,  353,  354.' 

ut    >    ,     .    .."""''j'^roA  fn  Great  Britain,  801. 
Mississippi,  the,  15. 

iiw.  "  Indians  of  the,  90. 

"Missouri  Compromise,"  the,  33. 

.'.'  .  ,  "  "    origin  of  the  trouble 

which  Bftvo  rise  to  the,  33,  34,  note. 
Missouri,  establishment   of  th.^  mail-coach  route 

from,  to  l.'allfornla  and  Orefon,  4. 
Missouri,  rainy  season  in,  10. 

"        River,  navigation  of  the,  16. 
•  "     sandbanks  of  the,  16, 

"     sawyers  and  snnga  of  the,  15. 
"  "     the  (Jreat,  16. 

'  "     the  l.lttlc,  Indians  of  the,  15 

.,         ,         "      winter  season  on  the,  10. 
Moccasins,  Indian  miHle  of  maklnp,  57. 

"         "so  of,  to  the  prairie  traveler,  11. 
Modesty,  Monimn,  Instance  of,  208. 
Mollusks  of  Itah  Territory.  2S0 
Mono  Lake,  274. 

Montajfues  Hocheuses,  Les,  163, 1C3 
Moonshiuc  Valley,  4S0. 
Moore,  "Miss,"  and  lier  ranche,  151. 

"  "        her  historv,  156. 

Moose  deer  (Cervus  Alces),  habitat  ofthe,  69. 
Moravlaiilsm  rcRarded  ns  a  means  of  civilization 

of  llie  Indians,  35 
Mornion  apslomeratlon  of  all  that  la  go  id  In  nil 

Mormon  halls  and  suppers  at  Social  Hall,  230-3 

"        liible,  807. 

"  "     contents  of  the,  308,  note. 

"  Mormon,  Hook  of,"  307,  note. 


Prophet,  visit  to  the,  237,  et  sea. 
"       Saints,  dr&ss  of  the  fair,  227. 
"       Scriptures,  list  of  the,  209,  note 
"       shanty,  Uawvid  Lewis  and  his  dirty,  174, 

Mormon  tolerance,  351. 

ISO  ISl"'''"'"''  *'"'"*  °^'  °°  ""  ^^'  1",  176, 

"li"n,' 30t  °^  ™'  '""'•'  "  ••''  "''"'°  '"  C-^*' 
Mormonlsm,  final  remarks  on,  441. 

I'l'  jf/ieutenant  Gunnison's  remm^  of,  398. 

Ject  of,  SOS,'!;'""'""  P"'^""""^"  "I"">  "">  "b- 
Monnonism,  objections  to,  404 

sketch  of,  301,  et  neq. 
what  It  Is  not,  403. 
Mormonland,  account  of,  272 
Mormons,  children  of  the,  423'. 

"        dencription  of  their  Temple,  514. 

.1,    .  •   7°•'"'^,«^  "f  t''e>  for  sleighing,  private 
theatricals,  and  dancing,  229-31. 
Mormons,  foundation  of  their  city  2S8 

''        ,■>;'*  "'ey  regard  the  United'^tatcB,  t50 
kindness  of  the,  to  the  Indians,  245 
period  fur,  leaving  the  Mississippi,  138. 
political  prospects  ofthe,  35'> 

promulgation  of  their  Constitution,  289. 
note,  '       ' 

"ogy,°3S7,'*cT"'"  "'""' ""  """'"'  '"'"'eirUoxoI. 
Mormons,  sketch  of  the  religion  of  the  361 

290         '"""^  ^^  *'''"''  ""'^'  ''"'''  "" ''  '"^^'t 
.Morimms,  their  lK>lief  ns  to  marriages  between  a 

Saint  and  a  (Jentile,  170,  vole. 
.Mormons,  their  complaints  against  Congress,  289, 

Mormons,  their  Immigration  Road,  71. 
"        their  bienircliv,  399. 
"         tliilr  matiTlalism,  3S4, 
"         their  Nauvoo  I.<.glon,  35445. 
'         their  new  Inde|)endence-day,  251 
"        tlieir  newspajMTs,  256. 
"        their  politics,  261. 
''         their  piilygamy,  37.1. 

the  r  punl^bni.  nt  for  adultery,  252. 
mnrcli   Us     '"'"''•"'""'"•>'  "rKanlzaliou  on  the 

Mormons,  their  sermons  In  (he  Bowcrv.  200  204. 
"         their  tith.  s,  24'i-:.il.  ty '■^W'*. 


portant  events  reco^irin'ttl""  "'"'  ""•  «5|"'-''h- n!;!S.^rl„  ,ho  WoMcm  BUte., 
desciinllon  of  11.  .loajn')         ....'..>;       .. 


Mormon  Conference,  desciipllon  of «,  .■!02-3n9 
"  dis|>ensation  of  Mr.  .loscpl,  Mnltli,  ls3 
"       diHlrlnes  and  covenanis,  :i7|. 

„f"ii      mot"'".*^'  '■•"'"I"''"' ""  till'  fourteen  articles 
or  (he,  .187,  rt  sc./. 

Mormon  emigrants,  1.'17, 176,  ISO,  18],  r?3,  006 

.'!  ,"    ,     '"''"■rlesofonpoftbe,  174, 175 

emigration,  svstem  of,  2!6. 

.'I  .1    ".         ••'••"''-•"'"r  track  of,  174.        ,        .>         w„rin.~  .«.  u 

'        eiUmato  of  outfit  for  the  I  tab  route,  138  L  «„„„,„.„  '•'T.'  *  '' 
notf.  *  '  ''""'  ;' Nountalne,  r,"  Mormon  newspaper,  26T 

Mormon  feat  at  Slmp.on's  Hollow,  103.  M"nnl,ilncers  of  llm  \v,st,  M 

"         "    ni'ar  Green  River,  113. 
"       fugitives  on  the  road,  4C0. 
K\n  of  tongues,  268 


"       povernm.nt,  up'ii  what  it  is  based,  801. 

"       hirrarcby.  the,  390. 

"       History,  cWonologlcnl  abstrnrt  of,  548 

lad.  n.  In  the  Houlh  I'uis,  ICO. 

leiliires  on  faiib,  371. 
"       ninleri.nllsni,  381. 
"       meaning  of  the  word.  361  2 

IN  of,  SJiT!"!},'"""" '"  ''""'''"'  ■'»'' "•  ^'clnlly, 
Mornifin  mmleMtv,  968. 
"       name*,  2J7. 
"       noophytos,  boharter  of  tli«,  ?M^. 


Moufflon,  the  American,  153,  15B. 
Mountain,  lllg,  190. 

i;n»lgn,  190. 

I  Itlle,  1113, 

Meailow  Massacre,  389. 

I'ldnt,  lO."),  459. 

QualilngAsp,  181. 

Rlni-llase,  ISl. 

Springs,  i.'t. 


Mounlaiu-' 


Henr-lilver,  174. 
lUack.  133.  14'.>. 
"  tiranlle,  454. 

"  I  aramie,  91,  l.ll. 

"  I  aramie  I'eak,  79,  S8. 

■f  I'l.n,  275'  ''"''  ■^■'■'■'""'J''  ''"R^''"  formation 

MounUiu",  <>i|Mlrrh,  191,  194,  3i2. 
R'K'ky,  ina,  ft  ^-u. 
Traverse,  3.'18. 
CInia,  176,  17,8, 
Wasaeli.  |si,  I r5,  .123,  830. 
While,  4.M1 
nica-nivtr,  c^  lo?,  105,  in,  im. 


INDEX. 


569 


431,  433. 
,  et  aeg, 
227. 
9,  ru>te. 
la  his  dirty,  1T4, 


e  road,  137, 176, 
s  taken  in  Great 


a  resume  of,  SOS. 
(1  upon  the  suh- 


plc,  514. 
jighing,  private 

2SS. 

itod  i-tatps,  C60. 
iicliaiic,  245. 
lis^i.^sijipi,  138. 

.  ant 

mstltution,  28!), 

s  of  their  doxol- 

tlip,  3(il. 

lid  thtir  iands, 

igca  between  a 

Congress,  280, 


lay,  2C1. 


tory,  2.12. 
liiutlou  on  tlie 

ry,  200,  204. 
eslcm  States, 


287. 

!<rUilli.,1B,X 
ir  formation 


184,100. 


Mud  Lake,  274. 

'•    Spring  Station.  71. 
Muddy  Creeli,  Big,  ISO. 

"  "      Little,  140,  180. 

"  "  "     the  Canadian  station-master 

at,  180. 
Muddy  Creole,  Little,  wretched  station  at,  140. 

"      Fork,  174. 
Mtiles  in  the  West,  135. 

"      obstinacy  of,  14. 

"     of  Central  America,  i3,  14. 

"     rate  of  progress  of,  14. 

"      recalcitrancies  of,  157,  107. 
Murder,  Mormon  puni.'<hmciit  for,  420. 
Miirdera  in  and  near  Great  Salt  Lake  Citv.  225, 

339.  ■ '        ' 

Murders  in  Caraon  City,  225. 
Murphy,  Captain,  his  loyalty,  181. 
Muskrat  Statinn,  159. 

"        the,  151,  nnti;. 
Mustang  of  the  Itlack  Hills,  142. 

"        the,  or  prairie  pony,  OS,  iwlc 
Myers,  Mr.,  tlio  Mormon  of  llear-Hlver  Valley, 

Mysteries  of  Endowment  Uouse  in  Great  Salt  Lake 
City,  220. 

Names,  Indian,  iir>. 

"       of  the  Miirmonn,  227. 
Nauvoo  Legion,  account  of  the,  354-5. 

"  "      story  of  two  waniors  of  the,  187. 

Nebraska,  meaning  of  the  word,  40. 

"         itiver.     Sef  Platte,  La  (irande. 

"        Southern,  rainy  season  in,  10. 
Needle  Uocks,  1H3. 
Nemchaw  Creek,  I!lg,  21. 
Neophytes,  Mormon,  behavior  of  thi>,  228-9. 
NowspaiMMs  in  Great  !<alt  Luke  City,  255. 
Nicollet  Lake,  274. 

Niobrara,  or  Unu  qui  court  RIvor,  41,  72. 
Nullah.    See  Arroyo. 

Oats,  wild  (.\vena  fatua),  of  the  Faciac  water-shod, 

Vi'J. 
"Obelisks,  the,"  1S8. 
O'Kallim's  llliiffs,  4S,  53. 
Ofliclal.^,  fcilerul,  behavior  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City 

of  the,  4:1.  ' 

Ojlhwa  ludians,  babltat  of  the,  100, 101. 

'■      tlie  niiuie,  100,  note. 
Ogalala,  nr  Okiindamla  Indians,  habitat  of  the,  08, 

"        vllliige  of  the,  S.\ 
Omaha  Creek,  or  l.lttlo  Tunkin,  71. 
OnioTiH,  w  11(1,  of  the  valley  of  the  Little  Bine  lUver, 

Odhi'uonpa  Indians,  habitat  and  numbers  of  thc,08 

Opblhnliiiin  ill  Itali  Territory,  278. 

Opi'iinii,  public,  In  (ireiit  Salt  Uko  City,  197. 

O.iulrrh  .Mcmntaius,  191, 104,  !l'.'2. 

Orenou,  bonuilary-stiine  between  It  and  I'lali,  100. 

"       OHtabll-;hini'nt   of   llio   luall-coacli   route 
from  Missouri  tn,  4. 
Oregon,  orlnln  of  the  name,  109,  note. 
Onusby,  Mayor,  bis  ileiith,  479. 
Onagos,  ttCCDiiut  (if  llu>  tribe  of  the,  34, 

"       ces'lim  (if  the  territory  of  the,  !I4. 

"       mode  of  liiilbliug  the  lodgei  nf  the,  S5, 
Ottiignmie-,  the  Indian  trlbo  of,  20,  note. 
Oullit,  the  travder's,  0. 
Outpusls,  remiirks  on  the  Vnlled  Sluti'a  army  fvs. 

lein  of,  4:i,  41. 
Owl,  the  hurmwlng  (Strix  euulrularia),  CO. 
Oxen  shod  id  ((real  Salt  Laku  City,  270. 
Ox-rldlng,  24,  iio(c. 

J'abakse,  or  Ciit-IIead  Indians,  07. 
rarlflc  Creek,  107. 

"      Itollrond.  illfflrultles  of  n,  277. 

*'  "        r.iutea  pmnosod  furu,  3. 

"      Spring.,  1(;;i. 

_  "  "       i-tatlon  «t,  108, 100. 

I'iUuQCi  luvur,  CO,  e^. 


Pantomime,  Indian,  or  speaking  with  the  fingers. 

Pantomime,  preliminary  signs  for  the  traveler,  124. 
"  aigns  of  some  of  the  Indian  triljos,  123. 

"  various  other  signs,  124-30. 

Panama,  501. 

Parley's  Kanyon,  105,  344. 

I'atriiircli,  rank  of,  in  the  Mormon  hierarchy,  400. 

Pawnee  Indians,  account  of  the,  30. 

"  "        principal  sub-tribes  of  the,  37. 

"  "        readiness  of  the,  to  cut  off  a  sin- 

gle traveler,  138. 

I'awnee  Indians,  sign  of  the  tribe  of  the,  123. 

I'eddlers,  llcen.''ed  and  unlicensed,  81. 

Penitentiary,  the,  of  Great  Halt  Lake  City,  271. 

Phelps,  Jnilgc  and  Apostle,  hia  "Sermon  on  tho 
Mount,"  100,  Jio'c. 

Phelps,  Judge  and  Apostle,  visit  to,  253. 

Pigeons  a  ciinstiint  dish  In  Italy,  33. 

"  I'ikv'a  Peakers"  on  tho  road,  00. 

Pine-tree  Stream,  174. 

Pine  Valley,  4S0. 

Pinon-tree," fruit  of  the,  4C0. 

"         (P.  monophyllus)  of  tho  West,  285. 

Piiwa  of  the  CiMeau  des  Prniries,  KS. 

"  I'itch-boloa  or  chuck-holes"  of  tho  prairies,  IS. 

Placcrville  Jity,  499. 

Platte  l!riilf:(>,  delicious  climate  of,  137. 
"      Fort,  00. 

"     Rivir,  a  dust  storm  in  the  valley  of  the,  75. 
"         ''     appearance  of  the,  at  Platto  Bridge, 

Platte  Uiver,  lieaiity  of  tho  banks  of  the,  39. 

"  "     character  of  tho  soli  beyond  the  im- 

mediate banks  of  the,  41. 
Platto  Uiver,  coal  found  on  the  banka  of  tho,  141. 

"         "     divlalon  of  the,  into  tlio  nortliorn  and 

soiitliern  streams,  00. 
Platte  Uiver,  farewell  to  the,  140. 

"  "     fording  the.  03. 

"  "     Iji  Grande,  or  Nebraaka,  39. 

"  "     Lower  Icrry  over  the,  110. 

"  "     noxious  cxluUatlons  from  the,  48, 

"  "     shallowness  of  the,  40. 

"  "     tender  adieux  at  tho  upper  croeslnir 

of  the,  02.  " 

Platte  Uiver,  timlxT  on  tho  banks  of  the,  40,  41. 

"  "     wild  garden  on  the  shores  of  the,  41. 

Pleiisnnt  Valley,  401. 
Plum  Creek,  4S. 

"         "      Kanche,  soil  about,  48. 
Poetry  of  the  Hloiix  Indians,  122. 
Point  Look-out,  45t. 
Poison  Springs,  401. 
I'lili^ous,  aninial  and  vegetable,  of  the  Pralrio  In- 

illiuis,  120. 
Polar  plant,  the,  4'i. 
I'oliie,  priviite,  of  Mormon  life,  224. 

"      public,  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  224. 
Polygamy  auumg  tho  Mormons,  373,  420. 
'•         Jusiilloation  of,  3S4. 
"         MiN.  I'ratfs  letter  on,  433,  ct  aeq. 
"         nsulta  of,  428. 
"         revelatliiii  to  .Idseph  Smith  on,  873. 
"         views  of  women  respecting,  431. 
Pony  I'xprcsa,  the,  2S,  tuili: 

"  "  "    on  the  road,  109. 

"  "  piifltage  by  the,  29. 

"  "         ridcrsdf  the,  29. 

Populall(inofl'talri'erritoiy,204. 

"  "  "        exces9offemRlo(i,801. 

I'dpuliis  tremulolde",  the,  1^0. 
Postal  system  of  the  I  nited  States,  evils  of  tbe 

contract  aystein,  172, 173,  no^''. 
Powder  HIviT,  Iiiilians  if  the,  07. 
Prairie,  alwnco  of  anlnial  life  on  the,  19. 

"      an  evening  In  the,  38. 

"       Cdiiipass,  tlie,  4S. 

"      dog,  the  (i:ynoniya  Ludovtelanns),  fltJ. 

"  "      his  aasociatcs,  rcptUea,  birds,  and 

bcnsls,  no. 
ITalrle-iioK  vUla|;e,  cn, 


1 


11 


570 

Prairie  fever,  cnune  of  the,  22 
"      fires,  the,  29. 


INDEX. 


li  i 


l:t 


the  air  19        *''^^°'*  °''  °°  "'"  t^raperature  of 
m     Prairie  hen,  heath  hen,  or  pinnated  crouse.  W 
"      land  of  the  United  States,  0. 
"      monotony  of  the,  18. 
"  "  "      rolling,  69. 

of  thc^n'^*"''''*'''"  "'^  ^^'^'"«ra,  peculiarities 
Prairie,  pitch-holes  or  "  chuck-luolos"  of  the,  18 
"      pony,  or  mustanp,  OS,  note. 
"      saddle,  the,  24,  25. 
''      Bkeleton  of  the  earth  at  the  blnffe,  20. 

fauirreI,tlie(Spermopliilu8tredecim.Unea. 
tUR),  1B»,  iiote. 

Prairie  storm,  a,  21. 

"      tlio  grand,  IT. 
"Prairie  Traveler,"  Oie,  of  Captain  R.  B.  Marcy, 
n  noted,  4.  ' 

Prairie  trees,  proBTcssive  decay  of  the,  09 

"      turnip,  the,  182,  note. 

"       "  weed,"  48. 

"      wolf,  or  coyote,  04. 

"         "     the,  30. 

^ll*7'l""°™'""  '"""'^  °^  '""  "°^  '"'"^  ^'"^^  'n 
Prairies,  blanched  bones  on  tlie,  4S. 

"       clouds  of  grasshoppers  In  the,  09. 
names  of  diflferent  Iclnds  of,  4S 

"       the  buffalo  the  "monarch  of  the,"  50 
PraU,^Mr..  Belinda  M.,  letter  of,  on  poiyg'amy,-  433, 

Pratt,  Orson,  account  of,  SfiS. 

works  of,  2,2;^«,<;»"«<'°"'''"««'P"y."  Mormon 
Pratt,  Pariey  1'.,  Mormon  works  of,  211,  212,  note 

ivinni        ..      """•'ler  of,  340,  and  nof(r. 
iTi  le  River,  the,  130. 

I're.-idcnt,  rank  of.  In  tho  Mormon  lucrarcliy,  809. 
I  rices  in  (>reat  Salt  Uko  City,  821. 
1  riests,  liigh,  rank  of,  in  the  Mormon  hierarchy,  300 
880  of  Joseph  Smith  and  llrigham  Young, 

Protestantism,  origin  of,  304. 
l-rovo  City,  ISO,  219,  833,  note. 

"      Itlver,  ;!3.3. 
Puma,  the,  IR),  iwle. 
Punishments,  Indian,  103. 
I'unkin  Creek,  I.lttle,  71. 
I'yriunld  Uke,  274. 


IRevoIvers,  value  of,  9. 

lieynal,  M.,  of  Horse-Creek  Station,  80. 

"  sketch  of,  and  his  career,  SI. 

R  ce,  the  wild  (Zlzanla  aiiuatica),  00,  lute. 
Richland  town  extinct,  21. 
Rifles,  Hawkins's,  9. 

"gnakm;  12L-  '^^'="'"""7  "^  "-O  Sioui  Ian- 
nivcr,  Assiniboln,  100. 

Sweefwat'errinf '"""  '='^'"P'-'e-6round  on  the 
River,  Hear,  182 ,  325. 

"     J.',''"^''','..'''"'''''  "^'  1"".  17T. 
Ulue,  lilg,  29. 

"      ICarth,  90. 

^"      Little,  31,  38. 

Cannon,  90. 

Carson,  493. 

Colorado,  102. 

Columbia,  102. 

Ues  Moines,  98. 

Vox,  19. 

Fremont's  Peak,  l.^S,  101, 104. 

(Jraud,  Neosho,  or  White-Water.  84. 

Oreen,  102, 100.  170,  2S4. 

Ham's  Fork,  174. 

Humboldt,  480. 

James,  97. 

KIslskadJIwan,  100. 

Milk,  100. 

Mississippi,  15,  OT. 

Missouri,  15,  97. 

"       Little,  9T. 
Muddy  Fork,  174. 
New  Jordan,  23;i,  325. 
Mobnira,  or  Fan  ijui  court,  40,  72 
I'adouca,  CO,  03. 

I'latte,  U  Grande,  or  Nebraska,  39.  CO 
I  latte,  102.  ' 

I'owder,  97. 
I'r,  lo,  130. 
Reese's,  485,  480. 


fandy,  Hlg,'so,  109. 
"      Little,  so. 


Quaklng-App  (Jreek,  101. 
"        "    Hill,  im. 
"       "    (I'opidus  trcmuloldes),  180. 

Habblt-bush,  the,  VA. 
Race-Cdurse  Uluff,  179. 
Railroad  Kaiiyon,  480. 

"       !■«<  iiic,  Mr.  Jefferson  Havls's  estimate  of 
the  cost  of  the,  3,  note. 
Raln-Hlorms  at  Weber-lilver  Station,  ISS 
luilny  sciisi.n  In  Kansas,  .Missouri,  Iowa,  ai'id  South 

era  Nebraska,  10. 
"Ranch,"  the,  at  Turkev  Cri'ck.  30. 
Raniho,  the,  In  Mexico  and  California,  5,  note 
Rattlesnake  bites  and  their  remedies,  160 

"  mils,  the,  IBl,  1B3. 

RattlesnnkcH,  lOfl. 
Red  Itnttp,  IIK^ 

"    region,  the,  130. 
Rwse's  Klvcr,  4'<0. 

Reg-liaw,  Mr.,  bis  bridge  over  Iho  Platte,  140 
Held,  Captain    Mayne,   rcnwrki   on   his   "  WUd 

Huutres-,"  209,  (lof^ 
Religion  of  the  Imlinns  genemlly,  107. 

•'  •'     Mormons,  sketch  of  the,  Ml,  el  «•». 

"  "     Sli.ux,  10:1.  ' 

Religions  of  the  Inlteil  Stat.'s,  list  of.  Ma,  note 
Reniy,  .lule..  and  Mr.  Ilrcnchley,  their  work  on  the 

Monniins  20t,  tm'e. 
Ravouge,  Indian,  103. 


'     Sioux,  HIg,  97. 
'     Smith's  Fork,  170. 

Snake,  102. 

Snowy-l'eak,  104. 

Sweetwater,  or  I'ina  Pn,  160,  lf58,  Id,  16J. 

Timpanogos,  182,  333.  ' 

Weber,  1H2,  ISS,  139,  .125. 

White-Karth,  or  Mauklzltah,  72. 

■\ellow.Ston,',  103. 

Road  from  Fort  Kearney,  47. 

"    from  the  lllack  Hills,  134. 

Roads  from  (;reBt  Salt  Lake  City  toCnlifomla,  452 

I.!    J ',',"';• '"I". i''  ""-'  ^'■•""  8»"  ^ko  Cliy  and 
rurt  Hall,  l(i7. 

Robliur's  RiKPst  Station,  408. 

Roblilimx,  Antolne,  notice  of,  75.  note. 

"         Fort,  75. 

Robinson  ("  Inrle  Jack"),  177. 

Rock,  Iiulepeiuleuee,  148. 

''         „    "  names  inscribed  on,  149. 

"     or  Turkey  Creek,  80. 

,  "   ,  „    ."  "     the  "ranch"  at,  SO. 

'..ock8"ofthoWost,  19. 
Rockwell,  Orrin  Porter,  account  of,  448-9. 

"  "  excellrnt  advice  of,  44.1. 

„     ,      „  "  Ibe  Hanlto,  191. 

Roiky  Mountains,  a  liumble-beti  on  tl:o  tonmost 

sinnniit  of  the,  10,%. 
Rocky  Mountains,  first  view  of  the,  153. 
,"  "  heights  of  the,  7,  IKI,  et  uq. 

"  surface  of  the  land  on  the  west, 

cm  slnpi^s  of  the,  8. 
Rocky  Mountains,  temjieraturc  on  the  countcniono 

ortlioSnulb  I'assofthe,  108.  "^ 

Hogi-rs,  Ciluml,  or  "  rncle  Hilly,"  471. 
Rosi',  the  apostate  Jew  an<l  Moniion,  460. 
RuuU's  projiused  for  a  I'aclUc  IUUro»d,  8. 


I 


INDEX. 


1,80. 
ior,  81. 
•0,  note. 


the  Sioux  lan- 
grouQd  on  tbe 


4. 

iter,  84. 


»,  72. 

ca,  89,  00. 


R8, 101,  103. 
'2. 


llfom!B,4')2. 
(0  CUy  and 


m,  149. 

t,  80. 

-9. 

e  uf,  449. 

bo  topmott 


I,  ft  nrq. 
a  tlin  \vi<k(. 

luntcnlopo 


EoatG^^proposed  for  a  Pacific  Railroad,  dUHcuItics 
Ruby  Valley,  471. 

"no""'  **''■  ''"'  "■'  ""*  *''*  ^""J'  '^''P''«"'  28.  and 
Rusaeli,  Mr.  W.  II.,  and  the  Pony  Einrcsa  «InKr 
ness  of  the  transport  by,  ISO         ^VK^'>  "ow- 
Eush  Valley,  451,  453. 

Sac  Indians,  tents  of  the,  SO 

"  the,  19. 

Saddle,  the  native  Indian,  25 

"       the  prairie,  24,  25. 
Sago  at  Koclcy-BridRo  .Station,  ICl. 
"    hen  or  prairie-hen,  14:J 
"    Spring-.,  4S6. 

63  64  "*  ^'"'"""'^'*  ""■  nbfllntho),  description  of, 

Saleratua  Lake,  147,  149. 

fl»i  JL  .      y  /.  ^''"'"'"K  nppearance  of,  148. 
Salmon  trout  of  the  Oreen  Itiver,  170 
Salt  grass,  149. 

•      u   ^'51"' J<"y' «■•''»'•    S-^-'Ortet  Salt  Lake  City. 
•  I       .     {'/""•See  Great  Salt  Lake.  ' 

"       "    House  Hotel,  201. 
"       "    Little.  274. 
^^qimntity  of;  in  the  water  of  Great  Salt  Lake, 

Saltpetre  not  found  in  Utah  Territory,  2S2. 
Han  1-  rancisco,  600. 
Sand-banks  of  the  Missouri,  15 

hills,  tlie  tract  cdlled  tlio,'70,  note. 
"     Sprinsa  Station,  491. 
Sandstone  at  Grasshopper  Creek  21 
Sandy  Creek,  71.  * 

"'       "    i!utio,'m^'""'°^°P'^"^- 

Sandy  River,  nig,  36,  109. 

"         "      Little,  30,  109. 
Sans  Arc  Sioux  Indians,  habitat  of  the,  98. 
SaultSte.  .Mario,  Indians  at,  100. 
Saurians  of  Utah  Territory,  280 
Sawyers  and  snaRs  of  the  Missouri,  16. 
Scalping,  origin  of  tlie  custom  of,  113 
o  1   "1    .   l;!"''l''e'"ed  as  a  rcll|,'lous  rite,  HD. 
Schools  in  firoat  Salt  Luke  City,  346. 
„    "       prini-ipnl,  425.  ' 

Scott's  Uluff:-,  77. 

"  "      hurricanes  of,  7S. 

'  "       orlRiu  of  the  name,  T8. 

Pcytliians,  Rcalping  rites  of  the,  112 
Seasons,  the,  in  Utah  Territory,  277. 
Seneca  City,  In  Kansas,  21. 
fiovcnteon-mllo  Htation,  48 
Seventies,  the  in  tlie  Mormon  hlorarohy,  400. 
Sevier,  Mr.,  the  Mormon,  4CI.  '' 

Shanties,  18. 

"       of  Seneca  City,  21,  22 

"        origin  ofthe  word,  18,' no(c. 
Bhanty,  n,  In  Kansas,  H), 

''       the,  at  I'aelflc  Springs,  100. 

the  lilrty,  t.f  Hani's  I'ork,  174,  17B. 
Shawncoa,  their  I.Klgcs,  80.  1    '■•1  i"* 

Hhcawit  Creek,  4S2. 
Shell  ( 'reek,  405,  400. 
Shops  in  (ireat  Salt  Lake  City,  217. 
Bhoshoneo  Indiana,  473-4. 

lOri.'  "       ""'''*   ''■''""'""''■'"   to  whites, 

Sibley,  Major,  hla  Improved  t<mf,  87. 

tarof't'he.'osl"'  "'  "»^«-Thl«b  Indians,  habl- 
Sierra  Nevada,  the,  493. 

RHvl;'^!'.'.'!'"  "f '»,"F"'"f"  ""'"nR  "'o  Indians,  123. 
Silva,  Luis,  and  his  wife,  II14 

Silver  fiiiinil  in  Itali  Terrltnrj-,  291 

^^^  virgin,  found  in  the  White  Mountains,  450, 

Simpson's  Hollow,  10s. 

"         I'ark,  496™'  "'  "'"  *''"™0'"  •».  1«3- 
"  Pasr,  iSo. 


571 


Simpson's  Road,  491. 
Sioux  Indian,  a  "  buck,"  89. 
"         "      meaning  of  the  name  "  Sioux,"  95, 

Sioux  Indiana,  books  printed  in  their  tongue,  120, 

Sioux  Indians,  character  of  the,  102. 
1^'  "       constitution  of  the,  104 

"       dependence  of  the,  on  the  bnffalo 
for  subsistence,  61.  "uuaiu 

Sioux  Indians,  destraction  of  Lieutenant  Grattan 

and  his  party  by  the,  SS. 
Sioux  Indians,  funeral  ceremonies  of  the,  122 
'•  "        future  of  the,  100,  lOL 

"       habits  of  the,  in  former  times  and 
at  present,  103. 
Sioux  Indians,  language  of  the,  120. 
"  "        lodges  of  tbe,  80. 

'  "        manners  and  customs  of  the,  99 

''  "        murder  of  M.  Montalan  by  the,  9L 

'         poetry  and  songs  of  the,  122. 
present  habitat  of  the,  !i,5. 

is  divided,  oe^Sa"^"' """'' '"'" ""'='' "'« '""^ 

Sioux  Indians,  religion  of  the,  103. 
"  "        revenge  of  tlie,  103. 

"        sacred  language  of  the,  122. 
"        sign  of  the  tribe  of,  124. 
^^  "       skill  in  archeiy  of  the,  120. 

low  70  ""*  ^''"'''''  ""'''"  ''''''*^'"  "'  ^^''  ^°'" 

Sioux  Indians,  women  of  the,  103. 

"     Klver,  »ig,97. 
Sisabepa,  or  liluckfeet  Indiana,  99. 
Sisitonwan  Indiana,  habitat  of  the,  90 
Skins,  prices  of,  at  Laramie  City,  89. 

'''    Va'lle  '"54  °'  "°  *"""  """^  •Ji'nensions,  105. 
Skunk,  tbe,  189. 
Sladc,  the  redoubtable,  92,  173. 
Slavery  legalized  In  Utah,  243. 
Sleighing  in  Great  Salt  Ijiko  City,  229 
Smitii,  Captain  John,  the  Monuon  patriarch,  180. 
of  241  '"'''''''         ""'  Mormon  apostle,  account 
Siiiith,  Joseph,  account  of  the  martyrdom  of,  617 
"       Ilia  works,  209,  210,  note. 
^^  "       his  second  son  David,  241. 

bis  son  Joseph,  of  .Nauvoo,  240. 
II  "       vlndlcat<«l,  4or>-«. 

207,  i^^'mlte^'  ^'' '""'  *"''"'  °"  Mormontom, 
Smltli's  Creek,  490. 
"       Kork,  170. 
Smoking  anioiig  the  American  Indians,  110 

Smoky  vXy.lu'"'"'^™'^'^'""''^""'^''"'''"- 

Smnoi,  iiishop  Abraham  O.,  hla  addrosn  In  tlio 

liowery,  200, 
"  Smudge,"  a,  liefore  sleep,  106. 
Snags  and  sawyers  of  the  Missouri,  15. 
Snake  Indians  at  Hanrs  Fork,  174. 
"      lodges  of  the,  SO. 
River,  fountalu-hejid  of  the.  103. 
"      Indian  name  for,  107,  mt«. 
Snakeroots,  IM,  167,  note. 
Snow  Creek,  140. 

"      country  about,  141,  143. 
Lorenzo,  his  Monuon  works,  213.  note 
|Snowy  Peak,  104. 
Social  Hall  In  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  229 

"         "     files  at,  2.",0,  231. 
Soda,  carbonate  of.  In  Saleratua  Uke,  14T,  and 

ftida,  or  Peer  Spring.j,  179. 
Soil  at  I'ort  Laramie,  90. 
"   lieyond  the  imniodlato  banks  of  La  Qrando 
I  lattc  Ulver,  41. 
Soil  near  I'liim  Kanrhe,  on  the  I'lntte  River,  48. 
of  Dig  Sandy  Ulver,  109. 


! 


I 


'      of  111. 

180.' 


beueh-la::;!  -.f  ' 


(.Trrat  Sttii  Lokw  ViUic^, 


U 


672 


INDEX. 


Sou  of  the  country  beyond  the  Warm  Springs,  158 

of  the  Valley  of  the  Ulack  11U18,  134. 
"    of  Utah  ■I'errltory,  283. 
Soldiers,  army  grievances  of,  445. 
"        at  Camp  Floyd,  444. 
"        di.tchiirged,  on  the  road  home,  154. 
difllikod  in  the  United  Stute«,  330. 
niannere  and  customs  of  the,  of  former 
times,  444-5. 
Soldiers,  United  States,  dress  of,  440 
Songs  of  the  Sioux  Indians,  122. 
South-Pass  i.ity,  in  tlic  Hocky  Mountains,  101. 
I'         "    of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  161. 

'         "    ""  *^'cnt  and  heiglit  above  sea  level 
16". 

South  Pnas  the  fountain-head  of  some  of  the  great 

rivors  of  America,  101. 
Spencer,  KUlcr  Orson,  his  worka  on  Mormonlsm. 

212,  note. 
Spring  Valley,  40(1. 
Spur,  the  prairie,  27. 
Squatter  life  in  Kansas,  a  specimen  of,  19. 

"  "   difflcultics  and  dangers  of,  101. 

Squaws,  Indian,  5!). 

"  "       dirty  cookery  of  the,  SO. 

"       of  the  Sioux  Indians,  103. 
SijuiiTel,  the  chlpmonk  or  chipmuk,  159,  note. 
"        the  ground,  169. 
"        the  spotted  prairie,  l.')9,  note. 
Staines,  Mr.  W.  C,  the  Mormon,  209. 
Stalking  the  antelope  on  the  prairies,  OT. 
Stambaugh,  Colonel,  233. 
Stampede,  the  great  dread  of  the  prairie  traveler, 

Stansbury,  Captain,  his  scniplos  as  to  the  observ- 
ance of  Sunday  on  the  march,  149. 

Stansbury,  Captain,  his  work  on  Mormoniem,  203 
note.  ' 

Stansbury  Island,  327. 

Stenhouse.  Eliler  T.  W.  II.,  and  Ills  wife,  223. 

i^tlr^lp,  tlie  prairie,  20. 

Store,  a,  in  the  Valley  of  the  Platte,  03. 

Stonn,  prairie,  at  AValniit  Creek,  21. 

"      of  dust  in  the  Valley  of  the  I'latte,  75. 

Stone  Lake,  lllg,  Indian  tribes  at,  90. 
"     used  for  the  Mormon  temple,  196. 

Strawl)errii's,  wild,  101. 

Strawberry  Creek,  101. 

Streets  of  (Jreiit  Salt  Lake  Cltv,  2t0,  217. 

Sturgis,  Captulu,  hia  chastiseinent  of  the  Indians, 

Suckers,  the  fish  so  called,  152. 

Sugar  Hout^^e  in  (ireat  Salt  Lake  City,  271. 

Sulphur  Oci  k,  isi. 

Sulphurous  po..|s  in  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley.  274 

Sumach,  the,  31. 

Summer,  the  Indian,  79,  4^X 

Sumner,  Urigadier  Uonerul,  bin  chastisement  of  the 

Indians,  4:1. 
Buntlowir,  the,  In  the  Valley  of  the  Lltilo  Dluc 

Ulver,  31. 
Sunflower,  value  of  iti  seeds.  S\. 
Su|)erstltion  of  the  Indian,  l(i7,  10^ 
SweitwaUT  Hills,  or  (ircen-ifiver  Mountains,  the, 

Swectwotcr  liiver,  Influents  of  the,  101. 

"  "      Its  iHaiitv,  15:t,  151. 

"  "      Its  water,  150. 

"  "      M'Achran's  Itrancli  of,  101. 

"  "      or  I'lua  I'a,  160,  159. 

Syracuse,  la  Kansas,  18. 


Tabernacle,  the,  of  Great  Salt  Uko  City,  219. 

Tahio  Mountain,  103. 

T.iiiKle-leg,  a  new  Intoxicating  liquor,  24.  note. 
Tannery  of  Mr.  Little  at  Great  Salt  Lake  Cltv,  344. 
Tar  Springs,  19J.  ' ' 

praxes  of  (;rcat  Salt  Lake  City,  315. 
Tnylnr,  .hilin,  Mic'  .M.irmon  apostle,  270. 
''Zii'"""*  '"''  "Icwum  in  the  Mormon  hierarchy. 


Teeth  of  the  Indian,  108. 
Temperature  at  Fort  I.Aramle,  00. 

"  at  the  Foot  of  Ridge  Station,  159. 

"  of  St.  Louis,  1.59.  ' 

He   ".  .      °,'i,"'^  eounterslope  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  108.  ' 

Temple  Block  in  Oreat  Salt  Lake  City,  21T 

"      description  of  the,  515. 
Tent,  Major  Sibley's,  87. 
Tents  of  the  Prairie  Indians,  S5,  86. 
Tctrao  pratensis,  142. 

"      urophasianus,  142. 
Thermal  Springs  near  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  236 

•     ,.  '  ''  "  "    analy. 

SIS  of  the  waters  of,  230,  note. 
Thirty-two-milc  Creek,  38. 

Ti.       r",        ,-.    "       tlic  station  at,  38. 
Three  Lakes,  161. 

"Thunder,  Little,"  chief  of  the  BrOlfi  Sioux,  de- 

feated  and  deposed,  89. 
"Thunder,  Little,"  description  of,  132 
_       "  "        visit  from,  132. 

riiunder-storms  in  Utah,  270. 
Timber  of  Grasshopiicr  Creek,  21. 

''       of  Great  Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  346. 
of  La  Grande  I'latte  River,  40,  41,  53. 
of  Locknan's  Station,  21. 
"       oftlio  Black  Hills,  134. 
"       of  the  Mississippi,  1,5. 
"       progressive  decay  of  prairie,  69. 
170      "'"  ^^'^'"''™  ""'°'''  'iBtinctive  dislike  of, 

Timl)er,  want  of,  in  i:tah  Territory,  2S4. 
lime,  the  Indian's  notion  of,  118. 
Tnnpauogofl  Kanyon,  vl.-lt  to,  446. 
"  or  Prove  River,  333. 

Water,  1S2. 
Tithes  paid  by  the  Mormons,  249. 
Tithing  House  in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  249. 
Titonwan  Indians,  habitat  and  present  condition 

of  the,  07. 
Titonwan  Indians,  sub-tribes  of  the,  98. 
Tobacco,  the  traveler's  outfit  of,  10. 

"       use  of,  among  the  American  Indians,  110. 
Toilet  of  the  prairie  traveler,  10. 
'I'olernnce  of  tlie  Mormons,  351. 
Tongues,  gift  of,  20S. 
Tonkowas,  tents  of  tlic,  h'S. 
Tophet.  4.^4. 

Totem,  tlie,  of  the  Indian,  108. 
Towakaniles,  tents  of  the,  )>6. 
Towni-end,  Mr.,  the  Mormon  hotel-kcepcr,  202 
Tradei-s,  licensed  and  unlicensed,  81. 
Trafalgar  Square,  barbarous  incongruity  of,  185 
I  rapper,  the,  of  sixty  vearg  ago,  63. 
Travel,  proprieties  of,  149. 

Travelers,  mismanageuient  of  inexperienced,  220 
I  raveling,  slow  mte  of,  of  the  mail-coaches  from 

Missouri  to  California  and  Oregon,  6. 
Traverse,  Lake,  Indians  at,  90. 

"        Mountain,  .132. 
Tiona  formation  of  Alkali  Lake,  153. 
.„  "     ,        "        of  SideratuB  Lake,  147  mte. 
Troy,  in  Kansas,  IS. 
Turkey  Creek,  ..r  Rock,  .10. 

"  "       the  "  ranch"  at,  30. 

Turnip,  the  pralrlr.  1s2,  note. 
"Twelve,  the,"  In  the  Mnrnion  lilc-archy,  400. 
"Twin  Peaks"  of  the  Wasuch  Mountains,  196. 
Twlss,  .Major,  M8. 


linta  mils,  170,  17S. 
Uncle  .lolin's  Grocery,  27. 

"  "       Indians  at,  27. 

I'nited  States,  eastern  and  w(}8tem  divisions  of 

the,  0, 
United  States,  extent  of  the,  0. 

"      mllitiiry  departments   Into  which 
tbcy  am  divided,  4.',  43,  ,iole. 
United  States,  "  I'ralrie  land"  of  the,  0. 

"  "      present  policy  of  the,  toword  the  In- 

dian, luL 


INDEX. 


573 


United  States,  proposal  for  eBtablishlng  a  camel 
corps  in  the,  40. 

United  States,  remarlca  on  the  army  Byatem  of  out- 
posts in  the,  43,  44. 

Utah  Indians,  lodged  of  the,  SS. 
"    Lalte,  or  Sweetwater  Keaervoir,  274,  332, 444. 
440.  '       .       1       , 

Utali  Territory,  bad  effects  of  conflicting  judiciaries 

in,  312. 
Utah  Territory,  boundaries  of,  273. 

"  "         cities  and  counties  of,  291-3. 

"  "         climate  of,  2r5. 

"  "        configuration  of  the  country,  273. 

"  "        diseases  in,  278. 

"  "  gcograpliy  of,  273. 

"  "  geology  of,  2S1. 

"  "  grazing  in,  2S4. 

"  "  Indiuna  of,  473. 

"  "  lalcc-i  of,  274. 

"  "  Legislative  Assembly  of,  BIO. 

"  "  minerals  of,  2S1. 

"  "  Mormon  government  in,  301. 

"  origin  of  the  name,  272. 

"  "  population  of,  2<J4. 

'*  "  present  state  of  agriculture  in,  285. 

"  principal  value  of,  287. 

"  "  proposed  route  to,  3. 

"  "  rights  of  tlie  citizens  of,  311. 

"  scourges  of  crickets  and  grasshop- 

pers  in,  2S4.  ^ 

Utah  Territory,  singular  fonnatlon  of  the  mount- 
ains of,  275. 
Utah  Territory,  soil  of,  283, 

"  "  springs  of,  274. 

"  "  the  Great  Desert  of,  455. 

"  "  tlie  Indian  bureau  of,  47fl. 

"  "  the  pi\8t  of  Momonland,  289. 

"  "  United  States  oflicinls  in,  309-10 

"  "  want  of  timber  in,  2S4-5. 

"  "  wild  animals  of,  279. 


Valley  Home,  in  Kansas,  19. 
"Valley  Tnn,"  origin  of  tlio  name,  170,  and  note 
Vegctiil)Ic3  grown  in  Great  Halt  IaIco  Vallev,  387. 
Vegetution  at  liluck  Fork,  17(5,  177-8. 

"  at  Quaking-Asp  Hill,  181. 

"  of  Big  Kanyon,  192,  193. 

"  of  HIg  Mountain,  lUO. 

"  of  HIg  Sandy  Creek,  1C7,  109. 

"         of  Gnjat  Cotton-wood  Kanyon,  340. 

"  of  Kansas,  17. 

"  of  Little  blue  River,  31. 

"         of  the  banks  of  La  Grando  Platto  Riv- 
er, 41,  43,  53,  5X 
Vegetation  of  the  valleys  of  the  Illack  Hills,  134. 

"         of  the  Wlnd-Itiver  Mountains,  103. 
Veranda,  a  model,  53. 
VernilUon  lireek,  27. 
Viburnum  dentatum,  119. 
Villages,  Indian,  SO. 
Violin,  Mormon  fondness  for  tlie,  177. 

Waddington,  Mr.,  the  Mormon,  403. 
WAg  dmugnpa,  or  Glistening  Gravel  Water,  107. 
Wagon  trains  of  the  Great  American  Salmrn,  22. 
Wagons,  various  uses  of  the,  of  the  prairies,  71. 

"        price  of  tlic,  called  ambulances,  73  note. 
Wahpekuto  Indians,  liabllat  of  the,  90. 
Wfthpetonwnn  Indians,  habitat  of  the,  00. 
Wakoos,  tents  of  the,  85. 
Walker's  Lake,  274. 
Wallace,  Mr,  at  the  llowcry,  200. 
Walls,  the  groat,  of  Great  .Salt  Lake  City,  197. 
Walnut  Criek,  21. 

"  "     pralrln  storm  at,  21. 

War-parties  among  the  Imlinnf,  143. 

"    party,  return  honH>  of  a,  144. 
Wanf,  Mrs.  Mario,  her  work  on  Mormonlsm,  200, 

nott. 
Ward,  W.,the  Mormon  sculptor  and  apostate,  240. 
Wards  Into  which  Great  Salt  Lake  City  U  divided. 


Ward's  Station,  or  the  "Central  Star,"  91. 
Warm  Springs,  158. 

"  "       barren  country  beyond,  153. 

Warren,  Lieutenant  Gouverneur  K.,  report  of,  on 

Nebraska  quoted,  7. 
WaiTlor.-i,  Indian,  57. 
Wasach  Jloiintains,  189,  195. 
,,r  ". ., ,  .,    "  eternal  snow  of  the,  323. 

Washiki,  the  Shoshonee  cliief,  10,5. 
Wasliington  County,  Ltali  Territory,  description 

of,  29i,  note. 
Water  communication,  idea  of,  between  the  Mla- 

flouri  and  the  Columbia  Kivers,  102,  103,  note 
Water,  none  in  the  Firit  Desert,  107. 

"      scarcity  of,  on  tlie  counterslope  of  the  Rocky 

Mountains,  100. 
Water,  supply  of,  in  Great  Salt  Luke  City,  216. 
Wazikute  Indians,  97. 

Weapons  necessary  to  the  Western  traveler,  9. 
"       of  the  North  American  Indians,  57, 119, 

Weber  River,  182. 

"     liead  and  course  of  the,  183,  326. 

"      rain-storms  and  cold  winds  of,  188. 

"      Station,  188. 

"      tributaries  of  the,  189. 

"      valley  of  the,  188. 
Weed-pralrle,  the,  43. 
Wells,  General,  the  .Mormon  president,  account  of. 

Western  man's  home,  description  of  a,  408-9. 
Whisky  a  favorite  with  the  wagon  drivers,  24. 

"        "  Valley  Tan,"  170. 
White-Earth  River,  or  Mankizitah,  72. 

"      Knife  Indians,  481-2. 

"      Mountains,  450. 
"White  Savages"  of  the  West,  173,  and  twle. 
Wichiyela,  or  First-Nation  Indians,  97. 
Wigwams   huts,  or  cabins  of  the  liastein  Amcrl- 

can  Indians,  80,  ito^c. 
Wilderness,  the  American,  63. 

"  "  animal  life  Id,  64. 

Willow  Creek,  161. 

"     a  little  war  at,  401. 
"     Canadian  settlers  at,  101. 
"      station  at,  401. 
Island  Ranch,  49. 
Springs  Station,  147. 
the  red,  the  hark  of,  smoked.  111. 
Wind,  alternate  hot  and  cold  puffs  of,  in  the  prai- 
ries, 79. 
Wind  River,  fountain-head  of  the,  102. 
"  Mountains,  102,  103, 104. 

"  "  evening  view  of  the,  104. 

"  "  game  In  the,  63. 

"  "  gold  found  In  the,  105. 

"  morning  in  tlie,  106. 

,  "  .  ,  "  wild  animals  of  the  wood- 

ed heights,  1C5. 
Winds,  cold,  of  Weher-RIver  Station,  183. 
WlniPstomis  of  the  South  I'ass,  105. 
Wind,  west,  almost  invariable  at  the  South  Poas. 
103.  ' 

Winnebagoes,  Winnlpegs,  or  Oclmngrae,  Indian 

tribe  of  the,  21),  note. 
Wlnuebagoca,  tlieir  tents,  80. 
Winnipeg  Lake,  Indians  on,  100. 
Witchetaws,  tents  of  the,  S,'». 
Wright,  Mose,  472-3,  481-2. 
Wolves  at  Hocky  Ilildgo  Station,  100,  101. 
"      near  lllack's  Fork,  176. 
the  prairie,  30. 
Women,  execs  of  the  female  over  the  male  pop- 

Illation  In  Utah  Territory,  301. 
Women,  lioii-e  of  the  wives  of  the  Prophet  In  Groat 

Salt  Lake  City,  2(6. 
Women,  Indian,  59,  100. 

"       Indian  names  of,  115. 
"       marriage  among  the  North  American  In- 
dians, 110. 
Women,  Monnon  marrlige,  407,  432. 
Hormon,  their  poiygaQiy,  4Dl. 


674 


INDEX, 


''e^'^SLlTi^:^'^''^^  -^'^  in  the  West- 
Women  of  the  MormonB,  228,  430. 
ofthe  Sioux  Indians,  103. 
'      the  half-breed,  80. 
jj^      their  separation  from  the  men  at  meals, 

Woodruff,  WUlford,  tlje  Mormon  apostle,  242 

Woods,  UUe  of  the,  y^d&?',^«%o 

nnd  Oregon  4  *''*'""'''  '»  talifomiaj 

^Uv^^r!;  m'"^*''"^'^ '» t"«  ^'in  of  the  Green, 


Yellow  Creek,  183. 
;;  "      Hill,  IS4. 

V«v„  .,   °"S  '*'^«'''  fountain-head  of  the  1B9 
Yoke,  the,  ofthe  great  American  Sahara  2? 
Yoaemite  or  Yoh«mite  Falls,  500.'"'  ^^• 

'^"ffie4"otTT,^J^''-''  -"-t  ^-«  one 


lYoun^  nrig„„„,  ,,,„,,  „,^  ^^  ^^^  Conference, 
Young,  Brigham,  addre.s  of,  in  the  Bowery,  261 
I     j^  "'eged  personal  fear  of,  226 

..  character  of,  239-245. 

..  u         gardens  of,  269. 

,    207,  „o<,.  ''""Pin'on  of  woman's  counsel, 

Young,  Brigham,  house  of,  234. 

,j  "         modeoflifeof,  240,  242 

„  ^^         nephew  of  the  Prophet,  I.IT 

II  „         personal  appearance  of,  238-9 

I    Wars,"  243.       """"**  •"'   °"  "'«   "Jndian 
Young,  Brigham,  visit  to,  237-8 
'  wealth  of,  242. 

[Yuta  Indians.  "  tT.!.rwl!!;' n""''''''"  "'"' 24'»- 
I    pignoftheir'tri£;T24  4?7     "  ""  """'"""»''•• 
Yuta  Indians,  a  little  war  wiih  the,  4(;i. 

Kindness  of  tlio  Mormons  to  the  24B. 
graves  of  the,  122.  '  ^ 


Izizanla  aquatica,  96,  rwle. 


s 


N 


THE  END. 


Pi 


W 


t  the  Conference, 

;he  Bowery,  261 
il  fear  of,  226. 
J9-245.   ' 

ivoman's  counsel, 


240,  242. 
^i-ophet,  mr. 
ranee  of,  238-9. 
Q  the    "Jadlan 


rcn  of,  24'). 

on  mountains," 

?,  4(il. 

lions  to  the,  24S. 


Standard  Works 


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STONE,  Lh.D.,  D.C.L.  With  Portrait,  Maps  by  Aehoavsmith  and  numprfms 
Illustrations.    8vo,  Muslin,  $3  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $4  qq  '  ""    ^"'"erous 

North  and  Central  Africa. 

Fvnl^Jv""''  ^'r°''7'''  •"  F""""'  ""'^  ^''"trnl  Africa.  Being  a  Journal  of  an 
fears  IsTo  """itT^"^  7,'^'''  the  Auspices  of  H.B.M.'s  Government,  in  the 
rears  1843—1855.     By  Henrt  Baktii,  Ph.D.,  D.C.L.     Profusely  and  elp 

HaTf  L^a'tlTo  50.    """"''''^  '°  '  '"'''  ^'''  ^'"^""'  ^'  eO?  SheeVJs  25; 

Lake  Ngami; 

?/ 'SIl""/""'  ""'^.I^'^^o^cries  during  Four  Years' Wanderings  in  the  Wilds 
of  Southwestern  Africa.  By  Chaules  John  Andersson.  With  numero.is 
DeWcT,  ^n  ^''''"""^xv^/ri"?  A'l^<="tures,  Subjects  of  Natural  I~ 
?6Te"^/m?f?^r/lS.'^  New  Edition.      I2mo,  MusliJ 

Five  Years  of  a  Hunter's  Life  in  South  Africa. 
Western  Africa: 

Its  History,  Condition,  and   Prospects.     By  Rev.  J.  Leiqiiton  Wit  son 
Muslin'Jl  25."  '  ^''''°""'^  '°  ^^''"'-    ^"^  ""'""^"'"^  Engra^Tngs.     12mo: 

Published  by  HARPER  &  BROTHERS.  PrankUn  Square,  N.  Y. 

tr  Habpeb  &  BBOTjiEM  will  wnd  either  of  the  above  Work,  by  Mail,  poBtage  pre-paid  (for  any 
dlitance  In  the  United  States  under  anno  mUes).  ou  rcceipt  ef  th.i  M,-,n»- 


A  Great  Work  Completed. 

"The  most  magnificent  contribution  of  the  present  century  to  the  cause  of 
geographical  literature." 


DR.  EARTH'S 

mWIE  Ali)  CENTRAL  AFEICA 

Travels  and  Discoveries  in  North  and  Central  Africa.  Being  a  Journal  of 
an  Expedition  undertaken  under  the  Auspices  of  H.B.M's  Government 
in  the  Years  1849-1855.  By  Henry  Barth,  Ph.D.,  D.C.L  Fellow 
of  the  Koyal  Geographical  and  Asiatic  Societies,  &c.,  &c.    With  a  Map 

Jfso^"  nTcatlTo  Jr™"°"-   ^""^'^'^  ^"  '  ^°^«-  «-'  ^->-' 

The  researches  of  Dr.  Barth  are  of  the  hiehest  Infrroef     Vo«, ,««.,  i,. .  i  :. 

s^Krprue7M;^y°^ 

guitering  deseriptionB  ot  landscapes  and  manners,  written  with  vieor  and  simnliritlr  ».VJ 

e^^tlnf  rJrJp''"f'''?T  1!^^^"^  '"«  '''''''  of  centurU  IsarfchJepe.  o"•?of'lSo"^- 
^^;  r  .  ^^^"^^  '0 '''•'e  its  place  among  the  clasulcs  of  trivel.-iondon  Ledder 
Jrt   ^"fP^  and  variety  of  subjects,  the  volumes  before  us  greatlvTurpaM  evw  other 

Tr^vM^?  A^^'n  "-l'.*"*'  '^'"'  "^^"^^  "  •>"  ''^'="  °"''  fortune  to  nicet.^  As  an  indefTueabL 
traveler,  Dr.  Barth'a  merits  are  undoubtcd.-iondon  Athenceum.  '"aeiaugame 

I  A  ^^\^  volumes  contain  the  best  account  of  the  interior  of  Negroland  we  have  vol 
had  north  of  nine  degrees  of  latitude,  and  he  himself  ia  the  model  of  an  eiXw-Datlent 
persevering,  and  resolute.— iondon  Spectator.  explorer— patient, 

-,t-n*.i*^"'r  •  t^  "''*°  '"?  "f.^"?  experience,  a  close  observer  of  people  and  ihinea  a  con- 
^Hi  u^'.'"^"'"?mV'"'*  *'"i»' JJ-*""""  occupying  a  position  of  dis.inguVshed  r^'rit  Dr 
Barth's  records  will  be  •  standard  work  in  the  library  of  eveiT  scholar -JvK  Wmild 
Dr.  Barth  has  written  with  marvelous  ciearnes.,  aid  from  I  mind  atTnce fulSerlt- 

1  Ji'i'  "'^  "5°*'  n>»B:nIficont  contribution  of  the  present  century  to  the  cause  of  eeoirranh. 
iw«  o"h  J'"? ^''-  JZ  *"''"'  «'=°™P'"'bed  his  task  as  he  1ms  doiie,  in  the  face  ofSmer 
able  obstacles  and  dangers.  Indicates  the  possession  of  those  qualitles-that  enthusiasm 
of  discovery,  that  shrewdness  of  observation,  and  that  practical  tact-  which  lend  th« 
fSf^.^'i?.","'"  «nd  romantic  interest  to  his  personal  narrative.  The  dUcoverles  mld^ 
Til  ^M^&'  importance  »i  bearing  upon  the  future  destiny  of  the  Amcil  continent 

tlJi*'  ThnL'!"n';f/!ff"'  •'?"t'-il'"«<>n  to  geographical  science  that  ha.  been  made  In  oar 
urTof  k^oXge.%^"'''o6^X!  "^o-^'-^ «•»  "«  ""'o""  '»  e«' P<"»*Bsion  of.histreas- 
0^^.  "** '"""  '"nport^t  works  of  the  kind  which  has  appeared  for  an  age—Lvtluran 

It  can  not  fall  to  find  its  way  Into  the  libraries  of  most  BcholarB.-i»nc/i6Kr<;  Virmnian. 

The  personal  details  giv«  the  work  great  Merest-PhiUuielphia  /vV««.  ^  '^"^^'"''"^ 
and  of  thf «h°.rtnw  n'f'.i"  fi,''Hf  ?'■'  °P.™  '°  "•"■view.  It  is  no  longer  a  land  of  darknes, 
h?dlnl  nu.„  ^^.^m',,''"''!''-  I'l,','  "2  '""B*""  '  ^"'^'^  "•»'«•  »  pestilential  mar^h,  or  the 
fh.  ™^?J  .1  '  *"''  '^'l'*  '."^  •".".'"'y  "">"■  The  physical  features,  the  natural  product^ 
fo™^i  ^ifh't^T'7'"*"''v"j'.'^  'f;!"""  of  "'«  ''««'  '"'"rtor  of  Africa  are  spread  out  to- 
«Z,  nn^n  ^h'  minutenesH  of  detail  that  leaves  hardly  any  thing  to  be  added  to  our  knowl- 

«fnl  Li  .„,f  .'.h'^„7™  "i"'"  *•  ^'-  i''!:!'''?  Z"'^  '«  »  ""'eniHcent  contribution  to  geo- 
grapuical  and  ethnological  science.— A'.  }'.  Indep'mdmt. 

Published  by  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin  Square,  New  York. 

ly  Habpm  4  Bbothkhs  will  .end  the  above  Work  by  Mail,  postage  paid,  to  any  part 
of  the  Lulled  States,  on  receipt  of  the  Money.    "  "     '  ' '^    ' 


